I bought The Cheapest Chinese Diesel Heater On Amazon
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 30 дек 2023
- I bought The Cheapest Chinese Diesel Heater On Amazon
#amazon #dieselheater #cabinlife #vevor
If you like what you see don't forget to Like and Subscribe. Also consider purchasing from the product links to support the channel.
Diesel Heater Available Here:
🇺🇸 amzn.to/3vknY1v
🇨🇦 amzn.to/3TJqesX
Follow the official Van City RC Facebook Page for more content:
/ vancityrc
If you would like your product featured on the channel you can contact me via email at vancityrc@gmail.com 
Развлечения
Make it a closed, loop heating system. That way, u not pumping fumes into your area =). And your efficiency goes up 50+% !!!!! Sweet setup!!!
Great idea I’m definitely going to look into doing that 👍💯
It would work more efficiently if you run another 3" return vent out of the building into the back of the unit as a cold air return. That way you are simply reheating the air from the building instead of trying to heat cold outside air that has exhaust fumes in it! You can turn the pump down and use less fuel.
Great idea, makes sense 👍💯
Looks like it will work great! Very cool! Its always nice not to freeze in your places of fun and relaxation!! 😁
It sure is going to work great. For me this makes a huge difference being able to get up to the cabin earlier than normal and extending the season now that I have a good heat source 👍💯
Happy New Year Brad 🥳
!) This control is very,very old type; 2) At 6 Hz. you spend a lot of diesel and you need double tank of fuel.....3) When it starts need 12-14 Amps so need battery charger...
Thanks 💯💯
Hi Dan, Your unit should start just as well on H1 as any other setting. I don't have that specific controller on mine, but I would guess the "Height" button switches to "Alpine Mode", for use at elevation well above sea level. I'm only 100 ft. above sea level, so I never use Alpine mode, but my understanding is that it reduces the Hz rate to the pump and increases the Hz cycle to the fan to allow efficient burn at high elevations. The pump button is for starting manual priming mode, so if you run it empty again, hit that button for a few seconds and it will run the pump for a few minutes by itself, to reprime the fuel line (watch your fuel line where it enters the bottom of the unit, when you see fuel being delivered, press the pump button again to stop priming mode) , then hit the power button to initiate start up. Your exhaust muffler is upside down, you need to have the weep hole facing down to allow condensate to drain out. When the H-x is displaying you are in level mode, so it will run at what you have it set on 1-6, when temp is displaying you are in Thermostatic mode, so the controller will speed up/slow down to maintain the set point temp, however, with the unit outdoors, if the thermostat is located in the controller, it will always run at full speed trying to reach your desired temp. The "Sensor" you see in the bottom of your tank is actually the fuel line connection, not a sensor, so when that is exposed above the remaining fuel level your tank is empty. They install the fuel outlet above the bottom because diesel can be pretty dirty and you don't want any debris collected in the bottom of the tank getting into the dosing pump, that's the reason most folks will install an inline fuel filter near the tank outlet. Best of luck to you! By the way your install through the house siding is one of the best looking installs I've seen on RUclips, maybe you can talk through the specifics of what you used and how you did it in a update video, I think that would be very helpful to those struggling with routing the duct through their lap/vinyl siding. If you need to run this for more than a few days, you may want to get a little battery tender trickle charger hooked up to your battery to keep it fully charged indefinitely.
Some great info. Everything you mentioned makes sense with how the controller is supposed to work but I think this controller doesn’t 100% work the way it should. I was looking at possibly changing it out to a different controller but need to verify the harness connection before I do order one. Great suggestion to do a follow up video I’ll definitely do that when I’m back up to my cabin in Spring.
Have a great weekend 👍
@@Van_City Dan Your controller is paired with the ECU board, not all controllers play well with all ECU's. Just a heads-up that you'll want to be sure your replacement controller will work with the ECU you have, or maybe just replace both with a mated set? Have a great weekend!
@@StratOvation thanks for the heads up.
These heaters are very popular here in the U.K.
Yeah I’ve noticed UK and USA these are very popular, I think here in Canada they have recently been getting more popular
Looks very nice👌😉💪
It sure is 👍💯💥
Do you have a part number for the siding trim round piece? been looking for something like that.
Here you go 👍💯
amzn.to/3Hbs5PO
You definitely do not want to put one of these heaters inside a property, on RUclips there was a guy who did that and the unit had a failure and completely filled his property with dense smoke which turned out to be diesel that hadn’t burnt off due to the failure. You can put the heater in a box or container outside the property to give it shelter from the elements but remember to put vents into the shelter or box to allow the heater to keep cool and to allow cool fresh air to get into the heater which will then be blown into your property. Just to note: You’ll need to prime the fuel system via the controller every time the fuel lines are completely drained for what ever reason.
Yeah I’m definitely hesitant to use it indoors. Someone suggested that I extend the wires for the control panel and have it indoor.
Now if you buy an extension cable and move the display inside it will turn off when the cabin reaches temperature.
Its running continually, Because it thinks its 0 degrees outside
Great suggestion I’ll definitely look into doing that 👍
I power my heater via a 12 volt battery which has a dumb charger connected to it all the time, whatever you do do not use a smart charger with these type of heaters as they do not like the constant draw of power. I’ve had one smart charger completely destroy itself and others that will just keep shutting down because of the constant draw of power, a basic dumb charger works great as long as you keep this in mind. The dumb charger needs to be a 10 amp (or more) charger, never have the charger on when you first start up your heater, allow the heater to start up from the battery and then once the heater has started and settled then turn on your dumb charger. The heater will draw up to 10 amps on start up which could over stretch the dumb charger and damage it. Keep the dumb charger in a place so it can get some cooler airflow over it for when it’s in use. When I’ve finished using the heater I’ll turn it off via the controller and then I turn off the dumb charger so the system is ready for the next start up, I’ve been using my heater in this configuration for a minimum 10 hours a day seven days a week and it’s been doing this for over a three month period now with absolutely no issues at all. I also use a mix of kerosene with 10% red diesel, the diesel is for lubrication for the fuel pump. Kerosene is cheaper than diesel here in the UK.
Great advice with the charger. Unfortunately I use this at my cabin which is off grid but definitely will keep this in mind if I decide to get one which I’m thinking I will for my garage at home. 👍
You have the exhaust directly under the fresh air intake . You should have the heater inside the cabin and run the exhaust outside. You maybe drawing exhaust into the heater and blowing the contaminated heated air into the cabin .
I was initially thinking of running it in the cabin and having the exhaust run outside but my son has medical issues where we have oxygen running and I didn’t want to take a chance with it malfunctioning inside the cabin. Fortunately didn’t have any issues with exhaust drawing inside the cabin. 👍
@@Van_City i understand your concern. It’s better to be safe than sorry. Breathing Oxygen isn’t something to take chances with. The back of the heater is your air intake for heating the air you blow into your cabin . To be safe I would route the exhaust away from this area. Wind currents change direction outside and you may inadvertently suck the fumes into the cabin.
@@roberterickson68 thanks I’ll definitely have a look at rerouting the exhaust. Appreciate the advice 👍💯
You definitely do not want to put one of these heaters inside a property, on RUclips there was a guy who did that and the unit had a failure and completely filled his property with dense smoke which turned out to be diesel that hadn’t burnt off due to the failure. You can put the heater in a box or container outside the property to give it shelter from the elements but remember to put vents into the shelter or box to allow the heater to keep cool and to allow cool fresh air to get into the heater which will then be blown into your property.
So just asking what kind of matenace do u have to do to them to keep running for days weeks
I’ve only had this for a short time up at my cabin before I closed it up for the winter. As far as I know run clean diesel and that’s about it.
It worked good didn't cook us out.
Worked better the 2nd night once we started to figure out how the settings were adjusted 👍💯