Nooooooo !!!! You just hot-started that poor sensor :( That is probably how its older brother died. Those are CERAMIC sensor elements. They heat up to 1450°F, once the gauge is powered up. Hitting it with a blast of relatively cold/wet startup exhaust WILL fracture the sensor element. And, the result is, usually, what happened with your 1st gauge/sensor.
This is how AEM instructed me to check my sensor. I sent them pieces of this video as confirmation of a bad sensor and was sent a replacement... the new sensor I received has been working just fine for the past couple weeks
@@avrgjoe Yes. That "rag test" is their test procedure. I HOPE that they did not tell you to hot-start the new sensor. Or, they can be expecting another replacement call, soon .:)
@@avrgjoe As soon as you apply power to the gauge, it starts heating the sensor's ceramic element up to 1450°F ( glowing orange hot ). When you let that happen, then start the engine, it is like throwing ice-water on a hot windshield, in the sun, in July, at noon, in Arizona, etc. Cracks form and spread, just like in a windshield. The cracks cause air leaks that ruin the calibration. Then, they start hitting the electrical traces. And, the sensor starts to flake out. Eventually, they hit something vital. And, the sensor is completely done. The engine needs to be started within about 5 seconds of powering up the gauge. So that the rush of cold/wet exhaust hits before the sensor is up to temperature. This is the cause of over 90% of premature WB sensor deaths. OEM ECUs know when the engine is already running. So, they don't start heating the sensor until idle is established. Aftermarket controllers don't know when the engine is running. AND customers complain if they take too long to start reading. So, their manufacturers use minimum specified delays, at start-up.
@@lordandprotector Gotchya, yea that could have been the death of the first one, i had the car keyed on messing with HPtuners and then fired it up after it had been on for a couple minutes. This one was never on for more than the time it took to hook it to the battery and go to start it. This was AEMs suggestion to test for bad wiring. I will definitely keep that in mind for in the future though... Thank you for the heads up!!!
Авто/Мото
Nooooooo !!!! You just hot-started that poor sensor :( That is probably how its older brother died. Those are CERAMIC sensor elements. They heat up to 1450°F, once the gauge is powered up. Hitting it with a blast of relatively cold/wet startup exhaust WILL fracture the sensor element. And, the result is, usually, what happened with your 1st gauge/sensor.
This is how AEM instructed me to check my sensor. I sent them pieces of this video as confirmation of a bad sensor and was sent a replacement... the new sensor I received has been working just fine for the past couple weeks
@@avrgjoe Yes. That "rag test" is their test procedure. I HOPE that they did not tell you to hot-start the new sensor. Or, they can be expecting another replacement call, soon .:)
I guess I'm not sure what you mean by hot starting it
@@avrgjoe As soon as you apply power to the gauge, it starts heating the sensor's ceramic element up to 1450°F ( glowing orange hot ). When you let that happen, then start the engine, it is like throwing ice-water on a hot windshield, in the sun, in July, at noon, in Arizona, etc. Cracks form and spread, just like in a windshield. The cracks cause air leaks that ruin the calibration. Then, they start hitting the electrical traces. And, the sensor starts to flake out. Eventually, they hit something vital. And, the sensor is completely done. The engine needs to be started within about 5 seconds of powering up the gauge. So that the rush of cold/wet exhaust hits before the sensor is up to temperature. This is the cause of over 90% of premature WB sensor deaths. OEM ECUs know when the engine is already running. So, they don't start heating the sensor until idle is established. Aftermarket controllers don't know when the engine is running. AND customers complain if they take too long to start reading. So, their manufacturers use minimum specified delays, at start-up.
@@lordandprotector Gotchya, yea that could have been the death of the first one, i had the car keyed on messing with HPtuners and then fired it up after it had been on for a couple minutes.
This one was never on for more than the time it took to hook it to the battery and go to start it. This was AEMs suggestion to test for bad wiring. I will definitely keep that in mind for in the future though... Thank you for the heads up!!!