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No you don't have to have the quick release but if you're going to put racing seats in I highly recommend the quick release

Yea, the turn signals still work just fine as well as the brights

It's in the description

@@avrgjoe and any nrg wheel will bolt up ?

If you're using an NRG wheel I would assume it would bolt to the NRG hub

I can, I thought I tossed it in the trash but it's still on my shelf airbag and all... how much and what's your zip so I can figure out shipping? You can email me at avrgjoesgarage@gmail.com as well

Any 6 bolt quick release should work with the hub but the hubs are vehicle specific. The 250cf I think was just the low profile with Carbon Fiber ring. And it doesn't have to be an NRG quick release either as long as it's a 6 bolt... there are some 5 bolt hub/ quick release/ wheel combos out there too but I don't have any info on those

@@avrgjoeso the gen 2 NRG quick release works with the nrg hub made for Firebirds

@PS1 Hagrid yea the part that bolts to the hub should have the same 6 bolt pattern

@@avrgjoedope. I’m doing my first quick release in a 95 trans am

I'm still working on that, I've got a horn button I want to swap on to the wheel and I will take care of that then but the short of it is you take a 3.9k resistor and wire it to the two wires that come out of the clock spring and it should fix it... but I haven't personally tested that yet

@@avrgjoe sounds good I ordered the resistor online 👍🏻

The cleetus wheel didn't come with a horn button just a center emblem... so no I don't currently have a horn on the car

Si t'es prêt à mettre 300 dollars dans un volant fonce ahah

@@arthurchauvin1145 je veut deja un pont mdrrr

It's at the very beginning of the video, but the bolts for the airbag are T25 torx

The socket size for the steering wheel is also in the video, I thinks a 21mm.

It's just a generic one from O'Reillys... is it seated down all the way? My cover still stays on fine, look me up in Instagram @average_joes_garage if you send me some pics I might be able to help

@@avrgjoe that’s exactly where I got mine, and you’re using the gauges fuse spot right? Cuz I tapped into the same one. I’m pretty sure I have it all the way down as well

@@catfissh which direction do you have the fuses facing? Yes, its in the gauges 10a position... Fuse #9 on the chart. And I have the fuses facing down... but now that I'm looking at it the fuse block isn't attached to my dash at the top, its bolted at the bottom and has some flex which might allow my cover to stay on

@@avrgjoe yea that’s exactly what I’m going to do, I hate seeing all the fuses exposed.

@@avrgjoe and they’re facing down just like yours are

It's in the description, don't know it off hand... I think I put a link for it in there too

Ok thanks 👍

Not yet, I've kinda been slacking on that

@@avrgjoe I picked up some 2.2- 3.3 1/2 watt, I’ll see how it goes

I hit 470hp on the dyno last fall, haven't dialed in the tune yet, it was running pretty lean... 416 with 12:1 compression and some massive valves lol

I believe Grant uses a 5 bolt pattern, NRG uses a 6 bolt... but im not 100% on that

@@avrgjoe okay cool thanks. I’ll look into it

Thats just a steering wheel puller, you should be able to get that from autozone, O'Reillys, advanced, napa, or even amazon

@@avrgjoe cool, what about the star/ alley key for the 4 bolts on the back side of the original wheel?

@@C-DOT that's a torx wrench, I think I got that set at Harbour Freight, but should be able to find at any autoparts store or Amazon as well!

I put them in the description, can't remember off hand

No its a 6bolt hub

SRK-170H for the 4th gen NRG hub.

Your airbag light comes on... I've heard if you put in a resistor it will go away but have not yet tried it

@@avrgjoe if I take it out will it also make it harder to turn

@@RenoTM_ no, it doesn't affect turning at all

@@avrgjoe i got a 2005 so i dont know if its different at all or what

@@RenoTM_ a 2005 what? There's no camaro or firebird for that year

Yea the cleetus center cap doesn't have a horn option but the NRG hub allows for a horn

@@avrgjoe awesome! Thanks for that info.

You will have to remove the clock spring to fit pretty much any aftermarket hub there's no way around that. If you don't want to have an air bag light you'll need to put in a resistor on the clock spring wires afterwards. I've seen other people use a 3.9k resistor but I haven't tested it for myself yet. I did find a pack of 100 for $6 on Amazon though. But yea all I purchased was the Hub, quick release, and wheel. You can rent a steering wheel puller from O'Reillys if you don't have one.

No it doesn't have the notch but it does have alignment dots, as long as you have the wheel straight when you start you can eyeball it pretty good first try

Not recently... I need to get some gopro mounts and hit up some more events... I've really just been enjoying it lately

Around 18mpg on the highway if I remember correctly

@@avrgjoe another question sorry 😂 how much gas can the x runner hold ?

@@avrgjoe sorry one last question how much does it cost to fill up the tank fully? And is the x runner reliable ?

I think it has about a 15gal tank and it was super reliable for us... we put 70k miles on ours and I pretty much just did basic maintenance and regular oil changes... had 135k miles on it when we traded it in

Yea no sweat, if you want to message me on Facebook you can find me at Average Joe's Garage or Instagram at average_joes_garage we can chat there if you want

I do plan on an electric cutout... been eyeballing the QTP cutouts... I also have a side project I'm working to see if I can make a "OEM" cutout switch using the SGS button location on the dash... keep an eye out for that one I'm hoping it turns out pretty sweet

@@avrgjoe I was tryn to go with QTP but they didn't have wireless key fob option,makes wiring install so much easier

This is how AEM instructed me to check my sensor. I sent them pieces of this video as confirmation of a bad sensor and was sent a replacement... the new sensor I received has been working just fine for the past couple weeks

@@avrgjoe Yes. That "rag test" is their test procedure. I HOPE that they did not tell you to hot-start the new sensor. Or, they can be expecting another replacement call, soon .:)

I guess I'm not sure what you mean by hot starting it

@@avrgjoe As soon as you apply power to the gauge, it starts heating the sensor's ceramic element up to 1450°F ( glowing orange hot ). When you let that happen, then start the engine, it is like throwing ice-water on a hot windshield, in the sun, in July, at noon, in Arizona, etc. Cracks form and spread, just like in a windshield. The cracks cause air leaks that ruin the calibration. Then, they start hitting the electrical traces. And, the sensor starts to flake out. Eventually, they hit something vital. And, the sensor is completely done. The engine needs to be started within about 5 seconds of powering up the gauge. So that the rush of cold/wet exhaust hits before the sensor is up to temperature. This is the cause of over 90% of premature WB sensor deaths. OEM ECUs know when the engine is already running. So, they don't start heating the sensor until idle is established. Aftermarket controllers don't know when the engine is running. AND customers complain if they take too long to start reading. So, their manufacturers use minimum specified delays, at start-up.

@@lordandprotector Gotchya, yea that could have been the death of the first one, i had the car keyed on messing with HPtuners and then fired it up after it had been on for a couple minutes. This one was never on for more than the time it took to hook it to the battery and go to start it. This was AEMs suggestion to test for bad wiring. I will definitely keep that in mind for in the future though... Thank you for the heads up!!!

www.ebay.com/itm/173158632311 Here's the one I got