Michel...Aluminum wont weld to steel, but it will mechanically bond to steel when both are heated to the lowest melting point of the two , very much like glue bonded or soldered. Nice video buddy.😊
Hi Rusti, 1st thing, have you been watching me light my wood burner lol, you do it exactly the same "kindling jenga"! 2nd, lol again, a very valuable experiment, I think you learnt far more than if it turned out perfectly. Great video. Cheers, Jon
Another fun video Michel. That milling machine is incredibly versatile. Wow, I had no idea the bed could tilt like that. So here are some observations. 1, I'm here in -24C freezing my behind. I need that fire here. 2, You're there with green grass and a light sweater roasting marshmallows. Admit it, the whole melting aluminum thing was a ruse to cover up the roasting marshmallows. 3, You got some awesome tools. Well deserved !!! And 4, I learned that I will continue purchasing my metal. Success!!! Gilles :)
Love this channel, look forward to my weekly workshop entertainment. You seem to do things one thinks about doing. Now we don't have to, we just watch "Rustinox". THANK-YOU.
Like your forge, Rusti . If you haven't described it in a previous vid, I'd like to see more about it and it's construction . I'm still jealous of your mill -- that is one slick unit ! But don't let your shaper get lonesome ..... they got "feelings" too, ya know ! You do more with a minimum amount of tooling than anyone I know -- as always, keep up the good work, Rusti !
I didn't know your mill was capable of such fancy gymnastics! I found out the hard way that scrap aluminium can be unpredictable. Pressure die cast scrap can be brittle and machines poorly. Good experiment though!
Rusty, fail is only the Fog, where we see the success through! No other way, to make Real experience!!! I could write a book about 😄 nice Video.... I am back on my Feed now.. and this weekend i will send you another Email... Stay healthy! Chris
Hi rustinox I found that regular pipe with the seam never worked for me either but since been using rollers from a treadmill they have no seam in them and after letting it cool for 30 min or so I take and dip them in water to cool and the aluminum slides rite out also you should use a crucible to melt down the aluminum I use old heavy gauge fire extinguishers that I get for free at a local fire and safety shop ! I then clean the slag before pouring it into the mold it helps eliminate inclusions or holes in the bar stock but that's just my opinion but its always a learning curve buy experimentation also fun too👍
Hi Rusty. Love that mill and how the table can be adjusted at different angles. A good experiment on melting the aluminium. It's certainly an art to get good results. I've been experimenting also but there's a lot to learn. Cheers Kevin
Man that's a cool little mill! 😊 I'm not one to preach, but speaking from experience, be careful with that brush, endmills eat brushes, without mercy 🤣. Love the tool holders! Next level stuff! 👍😀👍 Cheers!
hi Michel It's very important to learn how not to do things, I learn something like that every day!!!!!!!!!!!!! If at first you don't succeed, try try and try again😉😏 cheers Kev
look in Myfordboy's archives is all I can suggest. I dabbled with casting during my last two years in high school ... practically taught it my senior year (or what I could) because the coach/"metal shop teacher" knew less about it than I did. Never explored the use of de-gassing agents or flux for the melt. I got as much to learn (or re-learn) as anyone else. I'll have to get back into it one day, making and working aluminum bronze has me fascinated for some reason.
Elegant milling machine, great channel donations all, Matt & Mr / Ms anonymous 😀 Not sure what actually caused the cast Aluminium to stick to the steel, interesting 🤔 😳 Great experiment, any experiment is 👍. Thanks for sharing.
Make or buy a larger melting vessel, and then pour it into a mould (can be steel pipe, should be fine). Melt it in the larger vessel, flux it with borax, skim off the slag and pour it into the mould. Works best if you preheat the mould a bit. Not glowing hot, just hot. If you let it cool in the same vessel you melt it in, they will basically braze together. Been down that road 🤣 Graphite crucibles are cheap enough, I got my 2kg for $10 US. That coal forge is certainly more quiet than my furnace! Thing is unbelievably loud, considering it doesn’t have a fan or anything.
Definitely heat the crucible before pouring the metal. Cool metal will have a fine layer of moisture on it which will react violently when molten metal hits it.
I don't know why that did not fall out when it cooled down. The tube must have been warped in places is my guess. If you use a good straight tube the aluminum will shrink as it cools and come out very easy. It was interesting anyway.
Alot of dangerous semi-knowledge from my part, but there are substances out there to keep these bubbles from happening. I think for brass and steel, they use borax - but don't ask me what's best for Aluminium. Also, a slightly conical casting shape might aid in removing the casting later on - provided that no welding occurs. To keep that from happening, maybe pre-treat the mould by heating it up to create a scale that the Aluminium can't stick to... OK, I'll leave it to the professionals - I have no idea what I'm talking about xD
I always take a steel plate e.g. 100x100mm and any pipe e.g. 32mm up to 100mm diameter and 200mm length and weld the pipe with only 4 small points to the plate. heat the aluminium in another steel pot, fill the pipe with hot aluminium, let it cool down. grind away the 4 points and punch out the cold aluminium rod through the pipe. no matter if the pipe has a welding line inside. it works. Best regards fischer v erla
Hi Michel ☺ thanks for another interesting video mate, apart from the problem whith your melting pot, I think you are on the right track, the quality of the finished aluminium block is possibly caused by differant types of alloy,as you spoke of, and not enough heat in the first place, but I think it was a good first attempt, if we don't try we don't achieve anything, that's the fun of it, oh! and I realy liked how you could get what I think they call a compound angle on the milling table, I've not seen that before, take care my friend, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Hi Michel. Thank you for teaching me how not to “cast” aluminium 😂 Seriously though, I really do want to learn how best to do it efficiently and economically at home. Good luck with your experiments. Andrew 👍😀
If you really want to know I would suggest reading:- 'The Charcoal Foundry' by Dave Gingery and 'The Backyard Foundry' by B. Terry Aspin I would particularly recommend the latter because it covers construction if a furnace, pattern making flasks and the casting process particularly in cast iron.
Michel, it looks like you got an uneven heat from your forge setup. The fore didn't appear to have a deep tuyere to give you more room to set your "flask" into. Or you would have needed to build a higher (pile of) coal fire to better surround the flask. Doc at "Doc's Hotshop & Forge" here on RUclips uses old aluminum car wheels and gets very good results from them. I've heard bad things about _some_ aluminum engines as sources of aluminum due to anti-wear additives so the piston rings won't quickly wear the cylinders out. Also, like others have said, use seamless rather than welded tubing/pipe so the weld seam won't "key" into the aluminum billet you cast. If I tried this, I'd pour the melted metal into some kind of mold shaped like what you want, cylinders in this case -- even "official" foundry flasks end up with thin layers of metal stuck to the sides, like your tubing did, requiring different flasks for different metals to avoid cross-contamination. Lastly, I've seen some folks with small foundries adding an additive to their melt to help remove/minimize the bubbles left in the molten aluminum, but I don't recall what it was -- however, I've also read in some real Foundry texts that these additives aren't needed, so I can only _assume_ (and we know what _that_ means) that the small home foundries either add stuff like this because they are simply copying someone else or it _really_ helps in foundries that can't control what they add to their flasks ("unknown" metals).
Hi Michel, I do some Al melting in my blacksmith shop and I think hot iron and aluminum react somehow and form some form of chemical mixture. My 5mm thick iron crucible was full of cavities from inside after year of use. I switched to the graphite crucible and problem is gone. I use sand forms to create aluminum or bronze cylinders, it's much faster and easier to do than trying to get bonded aluminum from iron pipe.I didn't try stainless pipes, inspiration for your next video…? ;) Good job anyway, I like your videos. Go on!
Me thinks you need a bit more consistent and higher heat overall. Maybe you can soot the inside of you mold with paraffin or asetalene, which would stop the binding?
Good job no matter don’t work right the important is trying . I telling to all my co workers (never said :I can’t if dint tried first ,)good luck 🍀 next time
@@Rustinox Of the two The Backyard Foundry is the more comprehensive. It covers casting flasks, pattetnmaking, casting and the construction of a furnace. Dave Gingery's furnace is smaller and more portable but will only melt aluminium. Aspin's will melt cast iron.
I guese you have worked out by now that both martials expand during heating but when cooled the outer steel tube contracts at a different rate making it a jam fit.
Could have maybe should have be titled: "Why its called a tool makers mill." Fabulous demo on what it can be used for. If you have any other tools planned please do vids on them. As I said in a previous vid I had a mate who had one of these and I couldn't understand at the time what he was trying to tell me. I now get it - Thanks.
@@Rustinox FYI - I'm actually an aerospace engineer and one of my pet projects is: "HOW do we build a moon base?" The next question isn't: "HOW do we get stuff there?" its actually: "HOW do we star making stuff there ut of moon rocks & dust?" The biggest reality is that we can't fly everything we need there, its just to expensive. This is a major reason why I watch so many of the machining channels. Its not what they make so much as the solutions they find. Its also why I am so interested in the small machines people like you have. But at about $400,000 per kilo to the moon something like your lathe, mill and tools would cost about $1 Billion to send to the moon. So we have to start with even less that you have. The most basic first step is to process raw material and mold it into billets. So what you did here is actually important to me because its part of that first step. Maybe one day you can claim some credit for helping build a moon base. I have already been looking at this problem a bit already. Refining things isn't so hard because you can take advantage of the vacuum and literally boil the oxygen away. Molds are a problem because you just can't take a few buckets of sand, but you could possibly take a couple of molds. However STRAIGHT cylinders don't easily allow for release of the billet. Molds need a way to release or separate from the molded part. Sand casting is easy the sand just falls away. Plaster molds - break the plaster. *Look at casting molds for gold, copper or aluminum billets and they are tapered.* That way when the billet cools it naturally separates from the mold. I have seen gold pours and they drop the molds into water as soon as it starts to solidify that way the billet cools rapidly and releases from the mold. The other thing I have seen that's interesting is the knife forging guys who do what's called Cannister Damascus. They use liquid paper as a mold release. It creates a layer that prevents the raw materials from sticking to the cannister. Here's some suggestions. 1) Try and see if you can put a taper in the tube (widest at the top) so that when the billet cools and shrinks it separates from the tube. You could try using a thick walled tube and machining a taper in the lathe. That or get a ceramic crucible or get an old mold used for casting billets. 2) Try lining or painting the inside of the tube with something like plaster that can be destroyed to get the billet out. If you use a runny solution of plaster you can poor it in and swirl it around to coat the mold. You could do that several times to build up a release layer. After it cools you can tap/hammer the tube to break the plaster and the billet should just fall out. 3) Try tapping or shaking the mold to help get the air pockets out or stirring the molten metal with something that can handle the heat. It might also allow all the slag to float to the top. Remember a sand casting fills the actual mold from the bottom to push the air out and avoid pockets. Best of luck.
lol... nice try. Next time, start with previously cast metal. Dont overheat the hell out of it and pour into a soup can melting it in a cheap crucible on your forge. Expect to have to machine a lot off. And just watch what you melt doesnt have magnesium in it. That means no VW parts! Vinegar can be used to test for the presence of magnesium. What were you doing with this thing anyways? You are a machinist, not a metal caster. And please dont make me watch a "devil forge" video, but you can hit those idiots up and I bet they will send you a free furnace. 🙄 They know better than to send me one.
Развлечения
Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Loved it 👍 🇬🇧
That's the spirit. Thanks.
You sure know how to make a video! Every time you learn something and you get a smile while doing so.
Doing it all just for fun :)
You need sausages and burgers on that fire as well Michel.
Love that tool you made. Really like that. !!!!!
Burgers on a coal fire...? Not sure :)
Michel...Aluminum wont weld to steel, but it will mechanically bond to steel when both are heated to the lowest melting point of the two , very much like glue bonded or soldered. Nice video buddy.😊
Very interesting, Al. Thanks.
The compound table on your milling machine is a great asset. It's a lovely machine.
It's really handy and easy to set up.
Gday Rustinox, the table on the mill is brilliant being so universal, the aluminium was definitely worth a try, Cheers
Indeed. No need of angle plates or fixtures. It's all build in.
You are one of the most genuine persons I have seen on YT! That is the biggest reason I'm a fan!
That's very kind of you. Thank you very much.
Very cool how that table tilts both ways. I'm impressed Michel...you are a tool maker.
The machine is a tool maker. I just operate it :)
Glad the milling cutters arrived!
And they are just perfect. Thank you very much.
Hi Rusti, 1st thing, have you been watching me light my wood burner lol, you do it exactly the same "kindling jenga"! 2nd, lol again, a very valuable experiment, I think you learnt far more than if it turned out perfectly. Great video. Cheers, Jon
Kindling Jenga? So that’s what it’s called! (I do it all the time.) 👍
Doing like this sins I was a boy scout. It works :)
You never cease to amaze me. I hope we are getting a building your furnace from scrap series soon.
Don't think so... or maybe...
Aw go on!
Another fun video Michel. That milling machine is incredibly versatile. Wow, I had no idea the bed could tilt like that. So here are some observations. 1, I'm here in -24C freezing my behind. I need that fire here. 2, You're there with green grass and a light sweater roasting marshmallows. Admit it, the whole melting aluminum thing was a ruse to cover up the roasting marshmallows. 3, You got some awesome tools. Well deserved !!! And 4, I learned that I will continue purchasing my metal. Success!!! Gilles :)
Thanks Gilles. Marshmallows on a coal fire...? Not sure about that :)
@@Rustinox hmm good point
Always good to experiment.... and enjoyable video, thank you.
Thanks Paul.
Love this channel, look forward to my weekly workshop entertainment. You seem to do things one thinks about doing. Now we don't have to, we just watch "Rustinox". THANK-YOU.
Thanks Ross. I just want to show that it's way more fun if you don't take it seriously :-)
Like your forge, Rusti . If you haven't described it in a previous vid, I'd like to see more about it and it's construction . I'm still jealous of your mill -- that is one slick unit ! But don't let your shaper get lonesome ..... they got "feelings" too, ya know ! You do more with a minimum amount of tooling than anyone I know -- as always, keep up the good work, Rusti !
I show the forge build in this video; ruclips.net/video/zSBCJw5phQk/видео.html
And no, the shaper will not be neglected :)
I didn't know your mill was capable of such fancy gymnastics! I found out the hard way that scrap aluminium can be unpredictable. Pressure die cast scrap can be brittle and machines poorly. Good experiment though!
Interesting tip, Mark. Thanks.
Rusty, fail is only the Fog, where we see the success through! No other way, to make Real experience!!! I could write a book about 😄 nice Video....
I am back on my Feed now.. and this weekend i will send you another Email...
Stay healthy!
Chris
Glad you're back on track, Chris.
And success is just around the corner :)
Hi rustinox I found that regular pipe with the seam never worked for me either but since been using rollers from a treadmill they have no seam in them and after letting it cool for 30 min or so I take and dip them in water to cool and the aluminum slides rite out also you should use a crucible to melt down the aluminum I use old heavy gauge fire extinguishers that I get for free at a local fire and safety shop !
I then clean the slag before pouring it into the mold it helps eliminate inclusions or holes in the bar stock but that's just my opinion but its always a learning curve buy experimentation also fun too👍
Thanks for the tip.
Hi Rusty. Love that mill and how the table can be adjusted at different angles.
A good experiment on melting the aluminium. It's certainly an art to get good results. I've been experimenting also but there's a lot to learn. Cheers Kevin
All over RUclips, I see a lot of problems with castings. I' perfectly aware I will not win from the very first time.
Unlucky Rustinox lol. Looking forward to take two. Tony
I had a good time doing it,so it wasn't a complete fail.
Man that's a cool little mill! 😊 I'm not one to preach, but speaking from experience, be careful with that brush, endmills eat brushes, without mercy 🤣.
Love the tool holders! Next level stuff! 👍😀👍
Cheers!
Thanks Chris. I know that mills can eat brushes. It's a bit scary.
Good fun experiment...nothing wrong with giving it a try !
I think so too. And it's fun.
hi Michel
It's very important to learn how not to do things, I learn something like that every day!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If at first you don't succeed, try try and try again😉😏
cheers
Kev
I will try again, for sure. Its fun to do.
look in Myfordboy's archives is all I can suggest. I dabbled with casting during my last two years in high school ... practically taught it my senior year (or what I could) because the coach/"metal shop teacher" knew less about it than I did. Never explored the use of de-gassing agents or flux for the melt. I got as much to learn (or re-learn) as anyone else. I'll have to get back into it one day, making and working aluminum bronze has me fascinated for some reason.
Indeed, Myfordboy is an artist. There's a lot to learn from him.
Elegant milling machine, great channel donations all, Matt & Mr / Ms anonymous 😀
Not sure what actually caused the cast Aluminium to stick to the steel, interesting 🤔 😳
Great experiment, any experiment is 👍.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Experimenting is fun.
Thank you for When Children Cry. It touched my soul.
Thanks Jerry.
Make or buy a larger melting vessel, and then pour it into a mould (can be steel pipe, should be fine). Melt it in the larger vessel, flux it with borax, skim off the slag and pour it into the mould. Works best if you preheat the mould a bit. Not glowing hot, just hot.
If you let it cool in the same vessel you melt it in, they will basically braze together. Been down that road 🤣
Graphite crucibles are cheap enough, I got my 2kg for $10 US.
That coal forge is certainly more quiet than my furnace! Thing is unbelievably loud, considering it doesn’t have a fan or anything.
Definitely heat the crucible before pouring the metal. Cool metal will have a fine layer of moisture on it which will react violently when molten metal hits it.
Thanks. The coal fire adds also something artisanal or retro :)
Well done. In failure there is knowledge. Thinking that way I must be a genius by now. LOL.
All the best
Dan
I think you are, Dan :)
I don't know why that did not fall out when it cooled down. The tube must have been warped in places is my guess. If you use a good straight tube the aluminum will shrink as it cools and come out very easy. It was interesting anyway.
The aluminium was sort of "soldered" to the steel, but only in the middle part. I didn't know it was possible.
Love that milling machine! Never seen one like that before. You have many hammers but you don't beat about the bush lol!
Hammers to the point :)
i really enjoyed that thank you rusty
Thanks.
Alot of dangerous semi-knowledge from my part, but there are substances out there to keep these bubbles from happening. I think for brass and steel, they use borax - but don't ask me what's best for Aluminium.
Also, a slightly conical casting shape might aid in removing the casting later on - provided that no welding occurs.
To keep that from happening, maybe pre-treat the mould by heating it up to create a scale that the Aluminium can't stick to...
OK, I'll leave it to the professionals - I have no idea what I'm talking about xD
Well, I will watch some more casting videos :)
I always take a steel plate e.g. 100x100mm and any pipe e.g. 32mm up to 100mm diameter and 200mm length and weld the pipe with only 4 small points to the plate. heat the aluminium in another steel pot, fill the pipe with hot aluminium, let it cool down. grind away the 4 points and punch out the cold aluminium rod through the pipe. no matter if the pipe has a welding line inside. it works. Best regards fischer v erla
Thanks for you input. That will help for next time.
Rusty , you just stumbled one the method to make Chinalloy !
Lol. Good one :)
Chinalloy...Lol 👍
Hi Michel ☺ thanks for another interesting video mate, apart from the problem whith your melting pot, I think you are on the right track, the quality of the finished aluminium block is possibly caused by differant types of alloy,as you spoke of, and not enough heat in the first place, but I think it was a good first attempt, if we don't try we don't achieve anything, that's the fun of it, oh! and I realy liked how you could get what I think they call a compound angle on the milling table, I've not seen that before, take care my friend, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Well, it was my first experiment with melting aluminium. Next time better :)
You need draft angles so when the aluminum cools it releases itself.
I will try that next time.
@@Rustinox Bore a slight taper in the tube.
Hi Michel. Thank you for teaching me how not to “cast” aluminium 😂
Seriously though, I really do want to learn how best to do it efficiently and economically at home. Good luck with your experiments. Andrew 👍😀
Well, the coal fire works great. I think that's a good start.
If you really want to know I would suggest reading:-
'The Charcoal Foundry'
by Dave Gingery
and
'The Backyard Foundry'
by
B. Terry Aspin
I would particularly recommend the latter because it covers construction if a furnace, pattern making flasks and the casting process particularly in cast iron.
@@532bluepeter1 Thank you for these two suggestions.
Michel, it looks like you got an uneven heat from your forge setup. The fore didn't appear to have a deep tuyere to give you more room to set your "flask" into. Or you would have needed to build a higher (pile of) coal fire to better surround the flask. Doc at "Doc's Hotshop & Forge" here on RUclips uses old aluminum car wheels and gets very good results from them. I've heard bad things about _some_ aluminum engines as sources of aluminum due to anti-wear additives so the piston rings won't quickly wear the cylinders out. Also, like others have said, use seamless rather than welded tubing/pipe so the weld seam won't "key" into the aluminum billet you cast. If I tried this, I'd pour the melted metal into some kind of mold shaped like what you want, cylinders in this case -- even "official" foundry flasks end up with thin layers of metal stuck to the sides, like your tubing did, requiring different flasks for different metals to avoid cross-contamination. Lastly, I've seen some folks with small foundries adding an additive to their melt to help remove/minimize the bubbles left in the molten aluminum, but I don't recall what it was -- however, I've also read in some real Foundry texts that these additives aren't needed, so I can only _assume_ (and we know what _that_ means) that the small home foundries either add stuff like this because they are simply copying someone else or it _really_ helps in foundries that can't control what they add to their flasks ("unknown" metals).
Thanks for your input, Bob. It's really interesting.
Try some fire bricks to build up and reflect the heat back into the project. Thanks for sharing!
Good idea. Tanks.
Hi Michel, I do some Al melting in my blacksmith shop and I think hot iron and aluminum react somehow and form some form of chemical mixture. My 5mm thick iron crucible was full of cavities from inside after year of use. I switched to the graphite crucible and problem is gone. I use sand forms to create aluminum or bronze cylinders, it's much faster and easier to do than trying to get bonded aluminum from iron pipe.I didn't try stainless pipes, inspiration for your next video…? ;) Good job anyway, I like your videos. Go on!
Thanks for the tips David.
When asked about his failures to make the electric light bulb Thomas Edison said that he didn't fail he just found ways not to make the lightbulb
Spot on :)
Me thinks you need a bit more consistent and higher heat overall. Maybe you can soot the inside of you mold with paraffin or asetalene, which would stop the binding?
I will dig in a bit deeper and when the weather gets better, I will give it a go again.
Good job no matter don’t work right the important is trying . I telling to all my co workers (never said :I can’t if dint tried first ,)good luck 🍀 next time
Spot on. Thanks.
There is plentybof information and instruction in:-
'The Charcoal Foundry'
by Dave Gingery
and
'The Backyard Foundry'
by B.Terry Aspin
Thanks. I will have a look at it.
@@Rustinox Of the two The Backyard Foundry is the more comprehensive. It covers casting flasks, pattetnmaking, casting and the construction of a furnace.
Dave Gingery's furnace is smaller and more portable but will only melt aluminium. Aspin's will melt cast iron.
It'd would have been good if I had watched this video BEFORE trying a very similar experiment myself. :)
Well, nothing wrong with doing the same experiment. Maybe it turns out different.
@@Rustinox Sadly, it turned out almost exactly the same.
I guese you have worked out by now that both martials expand during heating but when cooled the outer steel tube contracts at a different rate making it a jam fit.
Yep, I did. I will find a better way.
if you want to test for magnesium clean item and add as some vinegar on it. if it bubbles or fizzes it got magnesium
Good tip. I will try that.
Put the spiltted two halfs into another pipe
Well, I had the same idea after I did cut it in half.
How not to video, lol..👍👍👍
Well, now you also know how not to :)
Could have maybe should have be titled: "Why its called a tool makers mill."
Fabulous demo on what it can be used for. If you have any other tools planned please do vids on them.
As I said in a previous vid I had a mate who had one of these and I couldn't understand at the time what he was trying to tell me.
I now get it - Thanks.
Thanks Tony. More to come.
@@Rustinox FYI - I'm actually an aerospace engineer and one of my pet projects is: "HOW do we build a moon base?"
The next question isn't: "HOW do we get stuff there?" its actually: "HOW do we star making stuff there ut of moon rocks & dust?"
The biggest reality is that we can't fly everything we need there, its just to expensive. This is a major reason why I watch so many of the machining channels. Its not what they make so much as the solutions they find. Its also why I am so interested in the small machines people like you have. But at about $400,000 per kilo to the moon something like your lathe, mill and tools would cost about $1 Billion to send to the moon. So we have to start with even less that you have.
The most basic first step is to process raw material and mold it into billets. So what you did here is actually important to me because its part of that first step. Maybe one day you can claim some credit for helping build a moon base.
I have already been looking at this problem a bit already. Refining things isn't so hard because you can take advantage of the vacuum and literally boil the oxygen away. Molds are a problem because you just can't take a few buckets of sand, but you could possibly take a couple of molds.
However STRAIGHT cylinders don't easily allow for release of the billet. Molds need a way to release or separate from the molded part. Sand casting is easy the sand just falls away. Plaster molds - break the plaster. *Look at casting molds for gold, copper or aluminum billets and they are tapered.* That way when the billet cools it naturally separates from the mold. I have seen gold pours and they drop the molds into water as soon as it starts to solidify that way the billet cools rapidly and releases from the mold.
The other thing I have seen that's interesting is the knife forging guys who do what's called Cannister Damascus. They use liquid paper as a mold release. It creates a layer that prevents the raw materials from sticking to the cannister.
Here's some suggestions.
1) Try and see if you can put a taper in the tube (widest at the top) so that when the billet cools and shrinks it separates from the tube.
You could try using a thick walled tube and machining a taper in the lathe.
That or get a ceramic crucible or get an old mold used for casting billets.
2) Try lining or painting the inside of the tube with something like plaster that can be destroyed to get the billet out.
If you use a runny solution of plaster you can poor it in and swirl it around to coat the mold. You could do that several times to build up a release layer.
After it cools you can tap/hammer the tube to break the plaster and the billet should just fall out.
3) Try tapping or shaking the mold to help get the air pockets out or stirring the molten metal with something that can handle the heat.
It might also allow all the slag to float to the top.
Remember a sand casting fills the actual mold from the bottom to push the air out and avoid pockets.
Best of luck.
Did you turn off comments or did RUclips ?
On "when children cry"
I wanted to support you sentiment.
It’s RUclips.
@@Rustinox 😪
Thanks for trying.
lol... nice try. Next time, start with previously cast metal. Dont overheat the hell out of it and pour into a soup can melting it in a cheap crucible on your forge. Expect to have to machine a lot off. And just watch what you melt doesnt have magnesium in it. That means no VW parts! Vinegar can be used to test for the presence of magnesium. What were you doing with this thing anyways? You are a machinist, not a metal caster. And please dont make me watch a "devil forge" video, but you can hit those idiots up and I bet they will send you a free furnace. 🙄 They know better than to send me one.
Don't worry. I want to make two aluminium parts, but I don't have the material, so...
I highly recommend checking out 'Olfoundryman' channel here on YT.
Thanks. I will.