Just discovered your channel and I have to say that I’m very impressed with the quality of knowledge, visual examples and just the general quality of this useful video tutorial you made, you got a good thing going and I’m very excited for the content you will create in the future!! I have no doubt that if you keep doing useful and entertaining content like this that your channel will grow exponentially! PS - would be sickkkk to see (some day) how you made that mini drill press / insight into the strategy and engineering process in it and the materials used/thinking behind it. Cheers!
If it’s just double sided board as long as both sides are soldered properly then you’re more than fine, but obviously plating would be the “best” way Maybe predrilling the holes and finding out the chemical composition of the etch film you used then trying to acquire (or make?) some and spray into the holes before going through the rest of the etching process. Would think it’d work best with the particular etching method used in the video (was it “negative” or “positive” etch…?! I’m not sure it’s actual name!) Just my 2 cents - potential solution just thought of quickly (tho I’ve never tried this method..!) also if there’s any merit behind the idea then I highly doubt I’m the first to think of it LOL Cheers
Nice video! I've been doing PCBs at home, when I need one, for 25 years. I've started with black tar dissolved in petrol and nitric acid, then with permanent markers and iron chloride and now with precoated photoresist boards and sodium persulfate. Next time I will try your method with hydrogen peroxid, citric acid and salt. For single sided boards I attach a thin insolated multi core wire to the other side of the board, with electrical insulation tape. Then I put a thicker insulated single core wire around the board to keep it spaced from tank bottom or walls. I clear the transparent photoresist with acetone, drill the board and apply a thin layer of rosin dissolved in isopropyl alcohol. For double sided boards I use 1mm pad and 0.5mm drill hole for vias. I wrap an polyester sewing thread around the board and knot the thread before adding the insulated single core wire around the board. After etching, clearing the photoresist and drying the rosin, I solder the SMDs then put an 5mm thin wire in corner vias so the board floats at 1mm when layed down. Then I insert wire in each via an cut it, I solder all front ones first, then I flipp the board and solder the other side. Obviously I don't put vias under SMDs. Also all through hole components must have traces ending on bottom layer. I have bought my self an Weller RT1 tip for soldering SMDs and build the 12V soldering station. I also bought an microscope like yours and 3D printed an adapter for 0.5 and 0.75 Barlow lenses. I also tried ink solder mask without good result, I will try your method of developed dry film before applying an dissolved ink. This method is way faster than ordering PCBs (2-3 weeks at jlcpcb), it takes only 1-2 days of work to make and assemble a small board (72x72mm). Skip the dry film method if don't have an industrial laminator, you cannot remove the air bubbles, even after removing all protective films an using baking paper above the film to pass it through the laminator. Just one question: the etching was real time or the film was speed up? For me it usually takes 30min...3h.
I use high concentrations of hydroxide and I warm up the solution. But I don't recommend to do so if you have no understanding about how it works from chemical perspective. Actually this video I made to summarize all my experience in chemical etching. Thank you @Valeriu Ene for interesting comment! Subscribe and I'll try to bring you more interesting video in a week or two!
Wait, 30mins up to 3 hours? To be honest, I'm using sulfuric acid at 50°C to etch my board, but the etching process is done in 2 Minutes and 40 seconds for 70μm copper. I've been doing PCB's at work for one year, with some Semiprofessional machines. And for one PCB I need about 4-6hours, because of the metalplating process.
Laser printer plus a laminator works WAY better than an iron. Suitable for SMD. In fact just as good as photo resist except way cheaper and easier. The peroxide (H2O2) plus hydrochloric acid (HCl) is a very good etching solution because the reaction produces cupric chloride (CuCl2) which is itself an etching solution. This means it's a self-refreshing solution, needing little maintenance and you can use the same batch of etching solution practically forever. This is what the professionals use.
Completely agreed about solution. I only doubt about using it 4ever because it's gasing. I was using laminator instead of iron and... Well most of laminator are too cold for toner melting and toner is still porous - it's not easy to get even 0.1 with it.
@@fixitalex The only off-gassing is the hydrochloric acid and water so you need to add a tiny bit every once in a long while. You can create a solution of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and use titration to figure out if it needs more acid. Most laminators need modification to increase temperature which is a relatively simple modification to the temperature sensor (usually a diode; just add some resistance to increase temperature). Higher capacity laminators work better and these usually have high watt ratings. Anyway, nice video, thanks! I'm going to try the citric acid!
My understanding is that with (NH4)S2O8 you need to add a little HgCl2 as a catalyst. By the way, regarding protective gear....I've never worn gloves when using nasty chemicals (I'm a chemist, and it was never required), But you didn't mention the really IMPORTANT precaution: ALWAYS wear eye protection! A little H2SO4, HNO3, etc, slashed on the skin isn't a problem, if you wash it off right away, but the TINIEST droplet of a caustic chemical, in the eye requires medical attention, and can cause blindenest!
Good first video Bearded Engineer! Great approach to the topic. I have subscribed to your channel. I would suggest that you make a second part talking about the best and safest way to dispose the chemicals. Keep it up 🤙
so in the video, when you are saying 100 grams of Pharmacy peroxide (26:31) for mixing with citric acid, it is 100 grams of 60% or 12% solution of peroxide?
it's funny how there's a strong element of conservatism in human nature, once some people learn through-hole they get too comfortable there. and the older you get the harder it is to learn newer things. let's push ourselves everyone! in the same vein though, why a rigid board? if you're going to go through the trouble of making a custom board, might as well make it flex. for rigid boards it's easier and cheaper to order them
Sure. I usually start with 60% because I can get it and then make concentration I need. For hydrochloric acid I use 12% and for citric acid I use 3% as used in pharmacy
@@fixitalex thank you for replying so fast, let me ask you specificaly, if I were to use 50% H2O2, then I would have to use 120 grams of it, but would the citric and the salt, remain the same , 30 and 5gr respectively, or that would increase? (I do not think so, but I am not a chemist... just an amature) thank you in advance!
your video appear on my suggested list, the topic and cover let me click on it, after a couple seconds I close the tab. I decide to open it again to tell you this, its the sound. improve your voice over, or better record a good voice. it's so annoying, I don't care how good your content if the sound is bad.
Man I'm doing my best. But you know It's a translation from other language an for sure my voice and pronounciation is not so good. Pity that you haven't even tried to understand what's going on.
@@fixitalex man... I told you as a guy who watch youtube on a big screen. I rather watch a low quality picture with a good sound. Improve the sound and you will get more view. trust me, I'm doing you a favor here.
@@fixitalex Said Peter Mckinnon and many other successful youtuber. About my video... I'm not try to earn any thing from youtube, it was an instruction for my friends in Thailand. Any way, I understand you have a high confidence so... please ignore my advice and please never try to improve the sound because that is already the best.
@@fixitalex Please don't take what Anuwat Hokoon said to heart. Absolutely incredible video, the chemistry was very thorough and easy to follow, and I loved the exploration of different chemical processes before deciding on a final solution and weighing the pros and cons of each. As a computer and electronic engineering student, this video will come in very handy for PCBs that I'll be fabricating for college projects. Thank you very much and I look forward to the next video, have to say I'm shocked this is the first video you've posted, the quality is brilliant! Keep up the great work :)
![ARGENTINA vs. CHILE [3-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 7](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/De3AWmXzhuA/mqdefault.jpg)
Just discovered your channel and I have to say that I’m very impressed with the quality of knowledge, visual examples and just the general quality of this useful video tutorial you made, you got a good thing going and I’m very excited for the content you will create in the future!!
I have no doubt that if you keep doing useful and entertaining content like this that your channel will grow exponentially!
PS - would be sickkkk to see (some day) how you made that mini drill press / insight into the strategy and engineering process in it and the materials used/thinking behind it. Cheers!
It's fascinating that in all videos on this topic nobody talks about hole plating.
Well... That's hard toxic and expensive. I've experimented with this. Maybe I'll make a video some day.
Well, unless you're making anything more than a double layer PCB, you dont really need via plating right?
Well... Actually you'd better have it. More reliable soldering, you know.
If it’s just double sided board as long as both sides are soldered properly then you’re more than fine, but obviously plating would be the “best” way
Maybe predrilling the holes and finding out the chemical composition of the etch film you used then trying to acquire (or make?) some and spray into the holes before going through the rest of the etching process. Would think it’d work best with the particular etching method used in the video (was it “negative” or “positive” etch…?! I’m not sure it’s actual name!)
Just my 2 cents - potential solution just thought of quickly (tho I’ve never tried this method..!) also if there’s any merit behind the idea then I highly doubt I’m the first to think of it LOL
Cheers
I was experimenting with hole planting. It is achievable but complicated expensive and unfortunately toxic. Bus someday I'll make a video about it.
He definitely established a new standard in terms of coolness.
Thank you for the informative well done video and voice over.
Over done on the chemical annalists.
Make more content PLEASE!! Got a great thing going here
Nice video! I've been doing PCBs at home, when I need one, for 25 years. I've started with black tar dissolved in petrol and nitric acid, then with permanent markers and iron chloride and now with precoated photoresist boards and sodium persulfate. Next time I will try your method with hydrogen peroxid, citric acid and salt.
For single sided boards I attach a thin insolated multi core wire to the other side of the board, with electrical insulation tape. Then I put a thicker insulated single core wire around the board to keep it spaced from tank bottom or walls. I clear the transparent photoresist with acetone, drill the board and apply a thin layer of rosin dissolved in isopropyl alcohol.
For double sided boards I use 1mm pad and 0.5mm drill hole for vias. I wrap an polyester sewing thread around the board and knot the thread before adding the insulated single core wire around the board.
After etching, clearing the photoresist and drying the rosin, I solder the SMDs then put an 5mm thin wire in corner vias so the board floats at 1mm when layed down. Then I insert wire in each via an cut it, I solder all front ones first, then I flipp the board and solder the other side. Obviously I don't put vias under SMDs. Also all through hole components must have traces ending on bottom layer.
I have bought my self an Weller RT1 tip for soldering SMDs and build the 12V soldering station. I also bought an microscope like yours and 3D printed an adapter for 0.5 and 0.75 Barlow lenses.
I also tried ink solder mask without good result, I will try your method of developed dry film before applying an dissolved ink.
This method is way faster than ordering PCBs (2-3 weeks at jlcpcb), it takes only 1-2 days of work to make and assemble a small board (72x72mm). Skip the dry film method if don't have an industrial laminator, you cannot remove the air bubbles, even after removing all protective films an using baking paper above the film to pass it through the laminator.
Just one question: the etching was real time or the film was speed up? For me it usually takes 30min...3h.
I use high concentrations of hydroxide and I warm up the solution. But I don't recommend to do so if you have no understanding about how it works from chemical perspective. Actually this video I made to summarize all my experience in chemical etching. Thank you @Valeriu Ene for interesting comment! Subscribe and I'll try to bring you more interesting video in a week or two!
Wait, 30mins up to 3 hours?
To be honest, I'm using sulfuric acid at 50°C to etch my board, but the etching process is done in 2 Minutes and 40 seconds for 70μm copper.
I've been doing PCB's at work for one year, with some Semiprofessional machines. And for one PCB I need about 4-6hours, because of the metalplating process.
Laser printer plus a laminator works WAY better than an iron. Suitable for SMD. In fact just as good as photo resist except way cheaper and easier. The peroxide (H2O2) plus hydrochloric acid (HCl) is a very good etching solution because the reaction produces cupric chloride (CuCl2) which is itself an etching solution. This means it's a self-refreshing solution, needing little maintenance and you can use the same batch of etching solution practically forever. This is what the professionals use.
Completely agreed about solution. I only doubt about using it 4ever because it's gasing. I was using laminator instead of iron and... Well most of laminator are too cold for toner melting and toner is still porous - it's not easy to get even 0.1 with it.
@@fixitalex The only off-gassing is the hydrochloric acid and water so you need to add a tiny bit every once in a long while. You can create a solution of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and use titration to figure out if it needs more acid. Most laminators need modification to increase temperature which is a relatively simple modification to the temperature sensor (usually a diode; just add some resistance to increase temperature). Higher capacity laminators work better and these usually have high watt ratings. Anyway, nice video, thanks! I'm going to try the citric acid!
My understanding is that with (NH4)S2O8 you need to add a little HgCl2 as a catalyst. By the way, regarding protective gear....I've never worn gloves when using nasty chemicals (I'm a chemist, and it was never required), But you didn't mention the really IMPORTANT precaution: ALWAYS wear eye protection! A little H2SO4, HNO3, etc, slashed on the skin isn't a problem, if you wash it off right away, but the TINIEST droplet of a caustic chemical, in the eye requires medical attention, and can cause blindenest!
You are damn right! So I recommend using anything but Nitric acid!
Amazing video, if i were to use copper sulfite and salt, what would be the percentage of each? Thanks
Approximatly one part of copper sulfite for two parts of salt. But it's not best way. Really
Good first video Bearded Engineer! Great approach to the topic. I have subscribed to your channel. I would suggest that you make a second part talking about the best and safest way to dispose the chemicals. Keep it up 🤙
great job! super super clean!
That cat expression 😂😂😂
CAT IS BEAUTIFUL
Please don't assemble any devices on your knees, and don't kneel before anyone, have a pride my boi Живе Беларусь!
hey! I really like your little drill press @31:23, did you make that yourself?
Yes I did. I'm planning to make a video about it
yep
so in the video, when you are saying 100 grams of Pharmacy peroxide (26:31) for mixing with citric acid, it is 100 grams of 60% or 12% solution of peroxide?
It's pharmacy peroxide (3-6%)
24:24 Don't forget safety glasses brother, I rather have a chemical burn on my hand than on my cornea!
it's funny how there's a strong element of conservatism in human nature, once some people learn through-hole they get too comfortable there. and the older you get the harder it is to learn newer things. let's push ourselves everyone!
in the same vein though, why a rigid board? if you're going to go through the trouble of making a custom board, might as well make it flex. for rigid boards it's easier and cheaper to order them
Sure! All of my friends still using THT. It's funny because at work they are designing for SMD
Which kind of transparent paper did you use?
Not the paper but film. Just ordinary film for inkjet printers
@@fixitalex is there a way to achieve the same effect using a laser printer?
I tried several times. Maybe two or even three printed layers will help. But film may deform a little because of heat. So layers may not match.
Cool
Thank you!
great vid . i kust dont know how did you get the photomask printed thats the part im confusedon
Just inject printing
Plz bring diy pcb drill video
Do you have another channel where all these videos are in your native language?
Yes I have. It is in Russian. You can find it here ruclips.net/channel/UCyKfSXBtzypbYs-8FGPlAHQ
good job
plasma vapour deposition of copper metal layer on a plate
or just sink in molten copper
make all integrated device
why do you think commercial is high quality, its trash quality, its often thrown directly to trash
dont go to store for quality things, all steps yourself, or you are unskilled
all the name of chemical are used pls help me
I listed everything. It's citric acid hydrogen peroxide and salt
hello, nice video, one question, what is the H2O2 percentage content? in the picture it shows 60%, can you please detail a little? thank you!
Sure. I usually start with 60% because I can get it and then make concentration I need. For hydrochloric acid I use 12% and for citric acid I use 3% as used in pharmacy
@@fixitalex thank you for replying so fast, let me ask you specificaly, if I were to use 50% H2O2, then I would have to use 120 grams of it, but would the citric and the salt, remain the same , 30 and 5gr respectively, or that would increase? (I do not think so, but I am not a chemist... just an amature) thank you in advance!
is this video is beginner friendly ?
Jude by yourself
Perfect 🆗🆒😎👍
Сдается мне я этого бородача в русском переводе смотрел
Не в переводе, а в оригинале!😜
Hey
Bearded engineer’s show I fascinated on you drill machine press Do video on how to press drill press.
💌
Well... Ok. But no idea when
subscribed for 24:50 :)
Cat
Very complicated process.
For me, It's more easy send to print my pcb.
I'm a hobbist.
Regards.
your video appear on my suggested list, the topic and cover let me click on it, after a couple seconds I close the tab. I decide to open it again to tell you this, its the sound. improve your voice over, or better record a good voice. it's so annoying, I don't care how good your content if the sound is bad.
Man I'm doing my best. But you know It's a translation from other language an for sure my voice and pronounciation is not so good. Pity that you haven't even tried to understand what's going on.
@@fixitalex man... I told you as a guy who watch youtube on a big screen. I rather watch a low quality picture with a good sound. Improve the sound and you will get more view. trust me, I'm doing you a favor here.
@@hokoon Says who? Just tried to watch yours. That sounds awful!
@@fixitalex Said Peter Mckinnon and many other successful youtuber. About my video... I'm not try to earn any thing from youtube, it was an instruction for my friends in Thailand. Any way, I understand you have a high confidence so... please ignore my advice and please never try to improve the sound because that is already the best.
@@fixitalex Please don't take what Anuwat Hokoon said to heart. Absolutely incredible video, the chemistry was very thorough and easy to follow, and I loved the exploration of different chemical processes before deciding on a final solution and weighing the pros and cons of each. As a computer and electronic engineering student, this video will come in very handy for PCBs that I'll be fabricating for college projects. Thank you very much and I look forward to the next video, have to say I'm shocked this is the first video you've posted, the quality is brilliant! Keep up the great work :)
bad quality