Captain Drew a big THANK YOU! I followed your video's on the servicing, thermostat and water pump today on my 2010 F50 TLR and everything went without a hitch. I couldn't of done it without your video's, not only has it saved me some money i'm far more confident of fixing issues out on the water if they pop up. You are a legend! Tight lines and calm seas.
Thank you so much Captain! Very good video explaining the process. We have twin F60’s on our boat and the dealer wanted right at $1,200 per motor for 100 hour service, including replacing the impellers. Parts from Yamaha are only about $300 so we saved a ton of money and minimized downtime by doing it ourself, and your videos gave us the know how to do it. Thanks again!
Thanks for this man. This was the only maintenance on the engine I was leery about doing myself. This video showed how simple it really is. You just saved me a lot of labor cost and downtime from my charters. Excellent!
Awesome video. somehow when I changed my water pump kit the lower unit slipped into drive (forward). I did research and you have to move the gear drive clockwise until it is back into neutral. I put a towel on the gear drive and then used pliers in order to not damage the grooves. Everything went back together. Like Capt. Drew said int he video, go slow and take pictures. It does help!
I really don't know what the little cable is for, but doesn't interfere with the water pump replacement procedure when taking the lower unit off. Great video, helped me a great deal. Happy fishing Drew.
Nice video. My engine is a 5 hp Honda; but hopefully it's very similar to your engine. I'm in your neck of woods, by the way. I live in Cocoa, FL (Canaveral Groves). I sail my boat in Titusville, near the Municipal Marina. If I'm not mistaken, Mosquito Lagoon is just north of there. Anyway, thanks for making this video. Hope to see you out on the water...
Just a bit of advice to maybe make the job a bit more manageable & safer. Take the cowling off & run a ratchet strap from each side of the motor & pass it under the cavitation plate at the start & end of the job. It'll hold the lower unit in place & make it a one man job. Good video.
Thanks Captain Drew, such a great video. Although, I wish you had added a parts list of the items. I say this because some of the parts I've purchased have been wrong for my 2007 Yamaha F50TLR. Thanks, Steve
The only thing I get is at times at WOT a sound of slippage but I believe that is due to running shallow and with my jack plate up. Almost sounds like a transmission shifting.
Your videos are fantastic! I have the same motor and getting ready to service it myself. I may have missed it in the video (sorry if i did!), do you have the part numbers for all the parts used in this video? Thanks!
Wow! You make it look so easy! My 2007 T50 TRL seems to have developed a leak somewhere in the "foot". I only see the oil drip When the motor is trimmed all the way up. Could I have a bad drive shaft seal?
+Drew Cavanaugh (Captain) hey dree, I have a f75tlr 2005 4 stroke.. I pulled wires from. relay assembly,blue and green. grounded the frame. put 12volts to blue then green. nothing... I get a clicking at the relay assembly when I use either switch. I'm not getting any resistance from the motor leads,with my volt meter. you think it the trim motor? Motor has maybe 50 miles on it .
Thanks, great video. Only thing I might suggest is the attention to grease, where it should be used, torque numbers for the bolts and, do not rotate housing. Best to set housing in the normal orientation, then turn the shaft to seat the new impeller. If someone were to seat the impeller backwards ( left rotation on a right rotation) would result in a premature failure. ;)
Drew, nice job on the video. I have the service manual. And they mentioned the shifting rod as a possible issue. Glad to see that is not the case to replace the water pump from your video. Thanks I will be ordering the water pump kit and also some yamaha grease. I will also watch your maintenance video. My motor is a 2005. When putting away for the winter last fall noticed the water pump had quite. I was able to run all the gas out and get it winterized but water pump will need to be replaced this spring. Thanks, my rule is that if I can not find the fix on you tube, I may not want to tackle the job. Question, was the lower unit drained of oil when you did this rework? Manual says to remove the propeller and drain the oil not sure why? Jeff
having the same issue as the others, was checking out my water pump thinking it may be bad on my 05 4 stroke 30hp (smokes within 10 minutes of running it) well the water pump is brand new. put it all back together and it spins in neutral, and I have no reverse. Took it apart and attempted once more. same thing. please help me lol
Dude! I've probably watched 10 vids on this, and yours is the best and most descriptive.. One question though, my replacement kit came with a little black tube about 3/4" long. it fits snuggly on the down-tube where the cooling water leaves the pump housing and flows up toward the power head. However, when I pulled the lower U to replace the impeller....the little black the tube was not there. I notice you didn't use the tube. My engine is a 2000 C40TLRY and the Yamy kit looks exactly like yours. Do you discard this tube, or is it present, and just left on the down-tube rather than installed on the housing? I hope that make at least a little bit of sense :/
I have a F40JEA and have replaced the impeller using this (and others) video as well as the Yamaha kit. My kit also had the short rubber tube and it fits perfectly into the round discharge hole followed by the white plastic part that snaps into the same hole. It appears to just be a spacer and I used it. If trouble occurs as a result I will post about what happens.
Great videos!!! This is the first time I have done the impeller myself, and apparently this has not been done by my regular servicer because I am having a really hard time getting the lower unit to drop down. I presume the motor should be in neutral, and I have all of the bolts off. I can get a gap of about 1 inch; after that, I can't get anything to budge. Any thoughts very much appreciated!
Lucia Marshall On my model it stays in neutral. Check with your manufacture first. Then be sure to grease the bolts up so the next time you lower it they come off easier.
Thanks for the great video's Drew. I changed the impeller on my Yamaha F115, bigger but very similar, and now I'm unable to shift like it's stuck in neutral. Seeing if you have ever experienced this, I'm going to remove the lower and try one more time, maybe it's not lined up properly. Any advise is greatly appreciated!
Make sure it is neutral from the beginning. If you had it in gear when you first dropped it then that is where you made the mistake. You only have three choices, neutral, forward or reverse. Just recheck your linkage.
After not using my rig with a 115 Yamaha for several months, I started lowering the unit and oil like fluid started coming out from the lower unit. When dropping the lower unit, is there a seal that is replaced and it will fix this or is it coming from the foot oil seals at the prop shaft?
nice video man! I've been doing alot of reading on this era of yamaha 4 stroke motors, its seems that alot of them squeal and chirp in low rpms and high as well. Some say its the bushing up inside and below motor and either grease of spray lube up in their. From watching your video, where is this bushing squeal in your video? Thanks for your help! PS, I have a 2008 F20 long shaft 4 stroke elect start with this squeal as well..
Thanks for a great video! What length boat do you or did you have this engine on? I have an older version of this engine that I am going to put on a boat and want to make sure I get the right size so it's not under or over powered. Do you know how much it weighs or weighed and your speed at WOT? Thanks again.
Great video, I have one question? Whendropping the lower unit, is there something holding the shifter or is it splined and just slips in and out? Thanks.....
Drew I have a what looks like a small braided cable that goes from a grease fitting to the middle of the outboard and goes through the hole that the speedometer tube goes through. what is that and how do I disconnect it before removing the lower unit to replace the water pump, Thanks for any advice. Great video.
Hey Drew. Great video. Very easy to understand. I opened the plastic intake "grill" to check, and it had black plastic rubber bits in it. I would imagine that would be pieces of thye impeller? Do you think it could be anything else? Is there any connection to the intake than to the cooling system via the impeller?
Just remember to keep it in neutral. Also video tape what you do so when you go back to put everything back you can always watch what you did and where things came from.
Very nice video. However, I understand that you are not supposed to run the motor with the Flush hose connection in place. That is, with the garden hose connected to the Flush connection on the front of the motor. Connecting the garden hose flushes cold water around the head. Great for flushing but not for running. Also, how are you measuring water pressure. If the garden hose is connected, then I would expect to get around 60PSI with the engine off. Thanks
Thanks, Captain, for the video. Running the engine with no water to the impeller will damage the impeller, as you acknowledged. I think your technique is great, but I don't know that you get accurate water PSI reading when connected to the garden hose. When you are out on the water, do you know what PSI you read at idle, and also at high RPMs (4k - 5k)? I have a water pressure gauge, and just wondering what you get with a good impeller. Thanks!
I figured out the neutral problem on the spline shifter. If anyone has an issue with this when putting the lower unit back in and can't find neutral just message me and I will explain. It's a very small margin for error if you need to find neutral again before reinstalling the lower unit.
Thanks for video. I'm having trouble going back together. Think it may be the neutral thing. Looks like I could place it in gear (fwd) and match the throttle lever...would that work? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Drew Cavanaugh yeah that worked. I turned the spline gear clockwise until it stopped then placed the throttle lever in fwd gear and everything went together fine and worked great. Thanks.
great stuff, mine is out now, i think, no water out the pee hole, say Drew, do you have a part number for this kit, i have the same motor? Also what are you meaning don't run the motor with the muff's on, I have a set of muffs and the hose hooks too it, and comes out one side, I start it before going out to make sure all is ok! is this wrong?
When changing my water pump I accidentally broke the speedometer nipple is it crucial to put a new one in and cap it it was hooked to a hose on my 40 horse coming out my control outlet at the cowling. What will happen if I just left it disconnected at the foot I see yours has the little block off I ran it inside of a bucket and I’m getting oil around the rim of the drum Will it leak oil from the foot into the cooling water? Because it wasn’t doing that before I changed the water pump.
Great vid man, thanks so much. Are you familiar with the F60LB Motor? I am buying a boat w/ that Yammy on it and I am assuming that the setup of the water pump can't be that much different than yours? Also, and I know that you may not know but, does doing the 100hr service yourself void the Yamaha Warranty?
I have a 2007 F60 and I've never seen or heard of anyone using the earmuffs and the cowling port at the same time to flush the engine. Usually I see people that can get to the earmuffs just use those and the people with no access to the muffs just flush through the cowling port with the motor off. What are your thoughts?
Need to know if the base plate the impeller runs on under the impeller, There's a half moon scrape or scratched area on mine, enough to catch my finger nail in it, do I replacec it or can I sand it down a little, the other half of the plate is smooth. Wish ther was a way to post a picture of it on here.
The black rubber piece installs below the nylon white round piece on water pump it snaps in with two ears. Mine didn't even have the black soft rubber spacer piece from last time someone was in there, so the water tube would not seal correctly for best performance.
@@captaindrewcavanaugh I pulled the lower unit off and inspected it. The drive shaft seal leaked so bad it went into a small cavity and ran out that tiny water drain hole
having the same issue as the others, was checking out my water pump thinking it may be bad on my 05 4 stroke 30hp (smokes within 10 minutes of running it) well the water pump is brand new. put it all back together and it spins in neutral, and I have no reverse. Took it apart and attempted once more. same thing. please help me lol
Captain Drew a big THANK YOU!
I followed your video's on the servicing, thermostat and water pump today on my 2010 F50 TLR and everything went without a hitch. I couldn't of done it without your video's, not only has it saved me some money i'm far more confident of fixing issues out on the water if they pop up.
You are a legend! Tight lines and calm seas.
Thank you!
Thank you so much Captain! Very good video explaining the process. We have twin F60’s on our boat and the dealer wanted right at $1,200 per motor for 100 hour service, including replacing the impellers. Parts from Yamaha are only about $300 so we saved a ton of money and minimized downtime by doing it ourself, and your videos gave us the know how to do it. Thanks again!
Thanks for this man. This was the only maintenance on the engine I was leery about doing myself. This video showed how simple it really is. You just saved me a lot of labor cost and downtime from my charters. Excellent!
drew, dave sobol homosassa fl here. just a big thank you on this vid and your other maintenance vids on the yami 50
Awesome video. somehow when I changed my water pump kit the lower unit slipped into drive (forward). I did research and you have to move the gear drive clockwise until it is back into neutral. I put a towel on the gear drive and then used pliers in order to not damage the grooves. Everything went back together. Like Capt. Drew said int he video, go slow and take pictures. It does help!
Great Video Captain!
Glad you enjoyed it
I really don't know what the little cable is for, but doesn't interfere with the water pump replacement procedure when taking the lower unit off. Great video, helped me a great deal. Happy fishing Drew.
+JAMRV kids Speed most likely, speed cable.
By the way how much lower unit oil does the 50 hp take? Will a quart do?
Nice video. My engine is a 5 hp Honda; but hopefully it's very similar to your engine. I'm in your neck of woods, by the way. I live in Cocoa, FL (Canaveral Groves). I sail my boat in Titusville, near the Municipal Marina. If I'm not mistaken, Mosquito Lagoon is just north of there. Anyway, thanks for making this video. Hope to see you out on the water...
Just a bit of advice to maybe make the job a bit more manageable & safer. Take the cowling off & run a ratchet strap from each side of the motor & pass it under the cavitation plate at the start & end of the job. It'll hold the lower unit in place & make it a one man job. Good video.
You are welcome. Did it turn out okay and work correctly afterwards?
Thanks Captain Drew, such a great video. Although, I wish you had added a parts list of the items. I say this because some of the parts I've purchased have been wrong for my 2007 Yamaha F50TLR. Thanks, Steve
I know this is late but here are the parts link: Yamaha - amzn.to/4cZTjqQ
@@captaindrewcavanaugh Thank you. Steve
Excellent Video!! You did an AWESOME job!! Thank you for the help!!
bbulliard Thank you very much!
The only thing I get is at times at WOT a sound of slippage but I believe that is due to running shallow and with my jack plate up. Almost sounds like a transmission shifting.
Your videos are fantastic! I have the same motor and getting ready to service it myself. I may have missed it in the video (sorry if i did!), do you have the part numbers for all the parts used in this video? Thanks!
Wow! You make it look so easy! My 2007 T50 TRL seems to have developed a leak somewhere in the "foot". I only see the oil drip When the motor is trimmed all the way up. Could I have a bad drive shaft seal?
Good stuff! Great job! Very helpful!
very well done...thank you
Thanks for watching!
Well done, thank you for posting.
+Dave Fivey Welcome!
Thank you Captain. Your video was helpful.
Very well done , thanks for this information, Capatin Drew, You saved me alot of time and money, Great job..
Thank You!
+Drew Cavanaugh (Captain) hey dree, I have a f75tlr 2005 4 stroke.. I pulled wires from. relay assembly,blue and green. grounded the frame. put 12volts to blue then green. nothing... I get a clicking at the relay assembly when I use either switch. I'm not getting any resistance from the motor leads,with my volt meter. you think it the trim motor? Motor has maybe 50 miles on it .
Thanks, great video. Only thing I might suggest is the attention to grease, where it should be used, torque numbers for the bolts and, do not rotate housing. Best to set housing in the normal orientation, then turn the shaft to seat the new impeller. If someone were to seat the impeller backwards ( left rotation on a right rotation) would result in a premature failure. ;)
pat mac Yes, the impeller needs to rotate the correct way.
Awesome video, That helped me out a lot! Really nice to reference the video!
James M Thank you!
Drew, nice job on the video. I have the service manual. And they mentioned the shifting rod as a possible issue. Glad to see that is not the case to replace the water pump from your video. Thanks I will be ordering the water pump kit and also some yamaha grease. I will also watch your maintenance video. My motor is a 2005. When putting away for the winter last fall noticed the water pump had quite. I was able to run all the gas out and get it winterized but water pump will need to be replaced this spring. Thanks, my rule is that if I can not find the fix on you tube, I may not want to tackle the job. Question, was the lower unit drained of oil when you did this rework? Manual says to remove the propeller and drain the oil not sure why? Jeff
With the lower unit off it is definitely a good time to change that oil too.
having the same issue as the others, was checking out my water pump thinking it may be bad on my 05 4 stroke 30hp (smokes within 10 minutes of running it) well the water pump is brand new. put it all back together and it spins in neutral, and I have no reverse. Took it apart and attempted once more. same thing. please help me lol
Dude! I've probably watched 10 vids on this, and yours is the best and most descriptive.. One question though, my replacement kit came with a little black tube about 3/4" long. it fits snuggly on the down-tube where the cooling water leaves the pump housing and flows up toward the power head. However, when I pulled the lower U to replace the impeller....the little black the tube was not there. I notice you didn't use the tube. My engine is a 2000 C40TLRY and the Yamy kit looks exactly like yours. Do you discard this tube, or is it present, and just left on the down-tube rather than installed on the housing? I hope that make at least a little bit of sense :/
Dylan Elks I will do some research on this and get back with you. Not sure really.
I have a F40JEA and have replaced the impeller using this (and others) video as well as the Yamaha kit. My kit also had the short rubber tube and it fits perfectly into the round discharge hole followed by the white plastic part that snaps into the same hole. It appears to just be a spacer and I used it. If trouble occurs as a result I will post about what happens.
Great videos!
Where do you get the kit from
Gerry's Marine in New Smyrna Beach
So you can go here and this is the one I used. If yours is different just search for it there: Water Pump - amzn.to/3WtesE2
Hi Drew great vid, can I just ask maybe a daft question but, do you have to drain the gearbox oil to replace the water pump and impeller parts
tim jones No, it is contained on its own. However I would do it.
Great videos!!! This is the first time I have done the impeller myself, and apparently this has not been done by my regular servicer because I am having a really hard time getting the lower unit to drop down. I presume the motor should be in neutral, and I have all of the bolts off. I can get a gap of about 1 inch; after that, I can't get anything to budge. Any thoughts very much appreciated!
Lucia Marshall On my model it stays in neutral. Check with your manufacture first. Then be sure to grease the bolts up so the next time you lower it they come off easier.
Thanks for the great video's Drew. I changed the impeller on my Yamaha F115, bigger but very similar, and now I'm unable to shift like it's stuck in neutral. Seeing if you have ever experienced this, I'm going to remove the lower and try one more time, maybe it's not lined up properly. Any advise is greatly appreciated!
Make sure it is neutral from the beginning. If you had it in gear when you first dropped it then that is where you made the mistake. You only have three choices, neutral, forward or reverse. Just recheck your linkage.
After not using my rig with a 115 Yamaha for several months, I started lowering the unit and oil like fluid started coming out from the lower unit. When dropping the lower unit, is there a seal that is replaced and it will fix this or is it coming from the foot oil seals at the prop shaft?
+Alex Bazemore Lex.Bazemore@ferguson.com
Captain Drew, could you tell where you got the 4 blade prop. ( dia and pitch ) ? Thanks great video, got same motor 2006.
PowerTech Props
nice video man! I've been doing alot of reading on this era of yamaha 4 stroke motors, its seems that alot of them squeal and chirp in low rpms and high as well. Some say its the bushing up inside and below motor and either grease of spray lube up in their. From watching your video, where is this bushing squeal in your video? Thanks for your help! PS, I have a 2008 F20 long shaft 4 stroke elect start with this squeal as well..
Thanks for a great video! What length boat do you or did you have this engine on? I have an older version of this engine that I am going to put on a boat and want to make sure I get the right size so it's not under or over powered. Do you know how much it weighs or weighed and your speed at WOT? Thanks again.
16 foot Ranger Banshee Extreme 2007
@@captaindrewcavanaugh Thank you for the info.
Do u know how to change the shift rod oil seal? I cant get the shift rod housing out .I have the same lower unit .
JStizle420 No, not had to do that. However I will look into it and get back with you.
How do you remove that key
thanks for the vid Drew
Great video,
I have one question? Whendropping the lower unit, is there something holding the shifter or is it splined and just slips in and out?
Thanks.....
Just drops down. Spline only.
Drew I have a what looks like a small braided cable that goes from a grease fitting to the middle of the outboard and goes through the hole that the speedometer tube goes through. what is that and how do I disconnect it before removing the lower unit to replace the water pump, Thanks for any advice. Great video.
+JAMRV kids Can you take a picture and email me it? I am not sure what you are talking about.
How did you get it out of drive. Same thing happened.
Hey Drew. Great video. Very easy to understand.
I opened the plastic intake "grill" to check, and it had black plastic rubber bits in it. I would imagine that would be pieces of thye impeller? Do you think it could be anything else? Is there any connection to the intake than to the cooling system via the impeller?
If they are rubber then it is the "most" likely the impeller pieces
+Drew Cavanaugh (Captain) you were right. The impeller was in pieces. Changed now. Works great
Just remember to keep it in neutral. Also video tape what you do so when you go back to put everything back you can always watch what you did and where things came from.
Very nice video.
However, I understand that you are not supposed to run the motor with the Flush hose connection in place. That is, with the garden hose connected to the Flush connection on the front of the motor. Connecting the garden hose flushes cold water around the head. Great for flushing but not for running.
Also, how are you measuring water pressure. If the garden hose is connected, then I would expect to get around 60PSI with the engine off.
Thanks
Mark B Yes do not run the engine just using the cowling flush port. Use BOTH at the same time. I do.
Thanks, Captain, for the video. Running the engine with no water to the impeller will damage the impeller, as you acknowledged. I think your technique is great, but I don't know that you get accurate water PSI reading when connected to the garden hose. When you are out on the water, do you know what PSI you read at idle, and also at high RPMs (4k - 5k)? I have a water pressure gauge, and just wondering what you get with a good impeller. Thanks!
I figured out the neutral problem on the spline shifter. If anyone has an issue with this when putting the lower unit back in and can't find neutral just message me and I will explain. It's a very small margin for error if you need to find neutral again before reinstalling the lower unit.
Florida Bowfishing need some help my motor is staying in gear ?
Thanks for video. I'm having trouble going back together. Think it may be the neutral thing. Looks like I could place it in gear (fwd) and match the throttle lever...would that work? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
You can try that and always put it back.
Drew Cavanaugh yeah that worked. I turned the spline gear clockwise until it stopped then placed the throttle lever in fwd gear and everything went together fine and worked great. Thanks.
great stuff, mine is out now, i think, no water out the pee hole, say Drew, do you have a part number for this kit, i have the same motor? Also what are you meaning don't run the motor with the muff's on, I have a set of muffs and the hose hooks too it, and comes out one side, I start it before going out to make sure all is ok! is this wrong?
Alan Spence Oil Filter - 5GH-13440-20-00Anodes - 65W-45251-00(3 Pieces)Anode - 67C-45251-00-00Water Fuel - 10 Micron - Mini 10(MAR-MINI-1L-TR)Spark Plugs - 4 Pieces - NGK-DPR6E-B9-00Oil - 4 Storke Oil -20w-40Fuel Filter - 8815Thermostat Cover- 6C5-12413-00-9SThermostat Gasket - 62Y-12414-00Thermostat - 66M-12411-01Water Pump Kit - 63D-W0078-01Lower Unit Screws - 688-45341-10/90340-08002Lower Unit Gaskets - 90430-08020Oil Drain Screw Gasket - 90430-14228
Wow, thanks Drew, good man..I'm missing some great weather fishing..
When changing my water pump I accidentally broke the speedometer nipple is it crucial to put a new one in and cap it it was hooked to a hose on my 40 horse coming out my control outlet at the cowling. What will happen if I just left it disconnected at the foot I see yours has the little block off I ran it inside of a bucket and I’m getting oil around the rim of the drum Will it leak oil from the foot into the cooling water? Because it wasn’t doing that before I changed the water pump.
Just loose speed identity
Great vid man, thanks so much. Are you familiar with the F60LB Motor? I am buying a boat w/ that Yammy on it and I am assuming that the setup of the water pump can't be that much different than yours?
Also, and I know that you may not know but, does doing the 100hr service yourself void the Yamaha Warranty?
prophet677 Thank You!
prophet677 You will want to ask them that question.
Yep, I talked to Yamaha and they said no; it will not void the warranty if you do the services yourself.
I have a 2007 F60 and I've never seen or heard of anyone using the earmuffs and the cowling port at the same time to flush the engine. Usually I see people that can get to the earmuffs just use those and the people with no access to the muffs just flush through the cowling port with the motor off. What are your thoughts?
It allows you to run the engine with fast idle and not worry about over heating.
Need to know if the base plate the impeller runs on under the impeller, There's a half moon scrape or scratched area on mine, enough to catch my finger nail in it, do I replacec it or can I sand it down a little, the other half of the plate is smooth. Wish ther was a way to post a picture of it on here.
Are you talking about the "wood ruff key"?
@@captaindrewcavanaugh no the base plate Under the impeller, that the impeller sits on before you put the housing over it.
Are you supposed to oil or grease the drive shaft at all before replacing?
Yes, the bottom an dtop.
where is the Damper (rubber gasket located)
The black rubber piece installs below the nylon white round piece on water pump it snaps in with two ears. Mine didn't even have the black soft rubber spacer piece from last time someone was in there, so the water tube would not seal correctly for best performance.
Hi Drew. Thanks for the video. I'm just curious about how many hours your engine has done?
From day one?
Doesn't matter if you turn the drive shaft putting the impeller housing on?
Yes, you need to keep it in neutral.
When replacing the impeller of a year old F50 what parts do you recommend replacing? Mostly all fresh water us.
Jimmy Gator Do the whole thing. Just buy the kit. It is a few dollars more but worth it. Since you have it torn apart.
Grazie bravo
do you use loctite to bolt the lower unit? One of the books I was reading suggested a light coating of loctite.
bbulliard No, just marine grease.
Will my 06' yamaha 70 Two Stroke outboard have the same process for changing the impeller?
Halley Ferrell It should be very close to the same process.
Thanks Capt... I'm sure I will see you out on the water sooner than later, as I too fish the goon a few times a week.
did what you said now its stuck in forward gear now no neutral or reverse what to do now
Give me a call, will be easier.
I'm having the same issue. What was the resolution?
I've got oil coming out of that small holes on the sides of the of the lower unit. Does anyone no what that's from
That I am not sure of. A lot of oil?
@@captaindrewcavanaugh I pulled the lower unit off and inspected it. The drive shaft seal leaked so bad it went into a small cavity and ran out that tiny water drain hole
Would this be all the same or very similar on an F150?
+TButch130 Same concept, yes, just different parts.
how much to fix in shop?
Around $700
having the same issue as the others, was checking out my water pump thinking it may be bad on my 05 4 stroke 30hp (smokes within 10 minutes of running it) well the water pump is brand new. put it all back together and it spins in neutral, and I have no reverse. Took it apart and attempted once more. same thing. please help me lol
Call me sometime either tomorrow or Monday. Will be easier.
You can call me if you want or can