Had a video idea i had to post here hoping Peter would see it: Was wondering if you could take some of those long spiral sea shells (i dont know what they're actually called) and fill them with resin. Then you could disolve the outter shell with vinegar and itd leave just the resin "negative" showing the shape of the inside of the shell. Think thatd be super cool.
Same with me. This channel is one of those that I constantly go back to rewatch videos. Something about his videos.. They are just so comforting and entertaining. I love it
For me, it's great because he feels just like me, a guy with a handful of creative hobbies who just gets an idea and rolls with it. Alot of other makers expand and grow into projects that are way out of most people's reach, but Peter isn't doing anything I couldn't find a way to do with the tools I have and some extra time/patience.
Instead of throwing away the left over pieces, you could cover the top with tape in order to hold their relative positions, remove them all from the cutting plate as one unit, and then pour some resin over them to hold them together. After it cures you could even remove the tape and stain the newly exposed wood side. It'd look more like a jigsaw puzzle than a stained glass window, but I imagine it'd be a pretty use of leftovers all the same.
@@merlinswolf1 Because you'd be missing the lattice that was cut out from between all the pieces, they wouldn't fit together correctly if you tried to fit them flush against each other like a puzzle. However, you could totally use the laser cutter to cut a wooden puzzle. You'd just have to specifically be trying to make a puzzle.
Could cut an extra frame piece around the outside to use with the loose pieces. Get some vinyl transfer tape like used with a cricut, lay it over the top to stick it to all the pieces then just removes the connected piece from it. The loose pieces would be ready to pour and then you would have the other main piece
Resin "stained glass" always looks more like enamel art to me more than actual stained glass, but I love enamel art (like enamel pins) so I would love to see more of it done with resin!
Cloisonne does share many qualities with resin "stained glass effect" the cupping of the fluid where the surface tension is higher near the barriers between colors.
@@tornagawn there is opaque glass used in stained glass work. typically transparent is used bc it still needs to function as a window but opaque goes well in decorative designs. and yea the meniscus in each section ruins the effects
If you try this again, perhaps use clear packing tape underneath and place the color printout below it so you will know where the colors go? Just a thought. Love your projects!
I just came to comment this, but for the reason that packing tape won't shred the way the painter's tape did. I use it with UV resin and it works quite well.
I’d suggest heat tape/kapton tape for the same reason. I might also suggest flipping the image during pour, since your tape side would look flatter and more uniform. However, since both sides are intended to be visible, that might not matter as much. It was really nice to see the skin tone did come out more warm as intended than was visible during the pour. Probably for the same reason the blue tape altered the dress color visibility during pour. Very nice work!
Apparently he did use packing tape the first time, and it leaked. I wonder if the painter's tape was cause it is more flexible and therefore creates a tighter seal.
I love that the comments section is full of helpful suggestions for the next time! Here's one from me: To get resin - or anything that forms a meniscus - into those tricky corners, lead it with a pin or a needle. then you can add extra to fill up the space and it should cover it. I've done a similar trick with watercolors.
To avoid that copper buildup, you'll want to connect the workpiece in a few different places. You can also occasionally reverse the polarity to help take away the small nodes of copper.
@@Yoda63 I'd honestly use a decent copper acrylic marker instead. If you want to sell it, you're looking at making about 6p an hour doing it with actual metal unfortunately.
As a heads up for the copper plating, you can use Conductive Shielding Paint used for electric guitar cavities. It tends to be a bit cheaper and comes in large quantities.
Peter, you've got a decent set of pipes on you, I don't care _what_ your wife says! Good song, too. And the "stained glass" is very, very cool. Nice project. Your videos are always a treat, man.
Having made a few "stained glass" pieces like this one, I find that alcohol ink works great if you're looking to get a translucent look (like if you want to put it in a window or something).
What a fantastic project! One suggestion about the copper plating: there's an old gold plating trick that uses very little solution, and lets you spot-plate. It involves wrapping some open-celled foam over a copper wand, dipping it in your plating solution, connecting the power supply to the workpiece and the copper wand, and wiping the surface with the wand. This lets you target specific areas, and you can put on a very thin copper layer this way that is much more conductive than the paint, so after that you can plate the whole thing as usual and it should go faster. This should give you a more even plate without the over-plated areas close to the edge. But still, I think the main issue here was that most of the workpiece was too far away from the anodes, and the copper ions were plating out of the solution as soon as it got to the first conductive area, never making it to the center. So if you can find some copper screen that you can suspend over the whole workpiece, or even just a zig-zag of copper wire over the whole piece for the anode, the plating should go faster and more even.
@mr.grotto9498 Agreed! At 1:19 my heart was burning when he tossed them in the trash... couldn't help saying out loud: "Oh noooo! You could have made a negative with those!"
For the last 7 years your videos have been a comfort while sick. And while I sit here, once again with the flu, I am eternally grateful your calm speech and fun projects are there to ease my pain. Thanks man!
White pigment is trouble in this sort of medium since it blocks light. That's why the areas where you mixed in white appear lighter when viewed in normal light, but darker when lit from behind. Get lighter colors by using less pigment (or mixing in more clear resin), not by adding white pigment. Another thing that could help if you do a similar project again would be to see if you can find some white tape for the back, so that you see the color of the resin as you work and not the tape. You could also experiment with using a washable gluestick on a piece of white backing. The glue should (hopefully!) prevent the resin from soaking into the backing, and should be fairly easy to remove with a wet sponge. Clearly this is something that should be tested before embarking on a project.
Rather than white tape I might suggest clear packing tape. It would allow for a white backdrop when needed but you could also place either a colored printout or a numbered lineart of the image behind it to try and help avoid missed cells like when he switched from the flowers to the leaves.
Adding less pigment only changes the saturation and opacity, not the hue. To get red to look pink you HAVE to add white. Adding less red only means the red is more see-through, not magically making it pink.
I have several 100+ year old stained glass windows in my house and they all have panes of varying opacity. Particularly in white areas or in areas where white is added to lighten the hue. There's nothing he did here that isn't represented in actual stained glass pieces. You're right about it being noticeable but more so when it isn't being backlit. In my opinion the thing that makes this look less like stained glass work is the copper structure and not lead colored.
Hey Peter, if/when you try this again, use the trick from the old stained glass craft kits for kids, and use toothpicks to tease the resin into those super tricky spots!
You can also use silicon tipped clay shaping tools or the tiniest sizes of the metal ball tipped things. But honestly, I would probably use toothpicks with epoxy too. With UV I use the ball tips since I can always clean them off before they cure and they are easier to hold.
More copper wires from the negative to various spaced out spots on the part getting plated would improve plating speed and help even out the voltage. If what you're plating is actually metal and has a low resistance across its surface it won't matter as much but it will never hurt to use more.
Before the pandemic, I used to make laser cut wood and resin jewelry, and it was super frustrating to do because of leakage. I'm so glad to see you doing a similar type of project!
Looks absolutely incredible! I know that the object is to not have air bubbles, but the few that actually remain make it look even more like actual stained glass!
I love hearing you sing instead of canned background music. This is the first of your videos I’ve seen, but you now have a new follower. Please keep making art so I can learn from you, and all the wonderful people in the comments!
That came out beautifully, Peter. With the light, you can see the subtle color added to her skin tone to differentiate from the glove, and it really does look like stained glass.
Oh yes, please, do another one! It came out really really nice; it would be lovely if finished in a deep frame with light behind it (like a reverse shadow box?)
Thank you for putting out videos. I love to watch you work, sing and enjoy yourself while working through projects. I very much enjoy that you add all of the misshapes, mistakes and worries. It reassures everyone that projects are not always perfect or even successful. Thank you for everything you do!
That turned out really well, I love the look. If anyone is interested, you can also do this with a 3D FDM printer. If you plan to put it into a window or where it will get a lot of sun I recommend not using PLA (depending where you live) and printing it in a higher temp filament such as ASA. Another style is using window privacy film behind the frame and covering it with clear (or slightly tinted) resin. It creates a fractal sun-catcher effect that casts rainbows.
@@BrightBlueJim That is true, and the inverse could be said that too thin and it would flake off with warping. Although I think I would prefer to print in bronze and sand it down afterward if I wanted the metal color, or use paint, or silver filament. That is what I love about these hobbies, so many ways to do things!
I was with one of the makerspace groups at Open Sauce and it was a pleasure meeting you there! This project came out so well and Im looking forward to seeing more of this technique (and anything else you create) in the future :)
i know people have already suggested saving the cut outs and filling the frame with resin, but go a step further and plate the cut outs with different metal colors(if other metals are possible), might give like a steam punk vibe
You sir, are a natural for this format. Wasn't planning on watching the entire video, just get ideas. I watched the entire thing and learned a lot while enjoying the video. Well done!
First when you poured the red or pink onto the blue tape it looked kinda trippy on camera. You were pouring red but came out purple. Also good call the different whites especially in the light you can see the difference. Absolutely amazing piece.
This was extremely fun to watch. For some reason the pouring resin into the piece was so relaxing to watch. I'm so glad it turned out so well! We want to try this out.
Impressive! Must’ve been a tedious process. Was concerned the seams in the packing tape were going to leave lines. But it doesn’t seem so! Maybe next you’ll have to enlist someone to do an illustration featuring images of all the different non traditional pigments you’ve had success with, and then you can fill the voids inside each design with those materials. Well done!
I did a little wood and metal work in previous semesters, and just love these processes. The end result with that light coming through is awesome. Thank you for your amazing videos!
If I may make a suggestion: use the old chemistry trick of pouring your liquid down a thin rod or even a piece of wire. Rest the end of the wire in the selected cell, bring the lip of the pouring container into contact with the wire, then pour the resin down the wire. Surface tension will keep the resin traveling down the wire and will prevent random drips. It’s virtually impossible to miss the cell with this technique. Nice job!
Love how she came out❤ I saw Evan and Katelyn do one and was wondering if you were going to revisit it as you now own a laser engraver/cutter 😊 Seeing that beast at work makes my new mini laser seem like a toy 😅 Maybe next time have a mould to put the excess resin into 😊
It reminds me of these little oven crafts we had as kids. You had a metal design that you filled in like you did as a paint by number with plastic beads. Then you put them in the oven. Came out looking about as much like stained glass as yours did. Such nostalgia, ty.
Technically... stained glass is where you paint the glass and put it in an oven to set the dyes into the glass. Compositing pieces of glass in a frame is properly called lead-lighting. Stained glass is almost always used as a component in lead-light, but lead-light windows do not require stained glass. Either way, this is a nifty idea... and who cares that it's not metal and glass?
@@peterbrownwastaken To add it bit to what @djeity said... The copper foil technique is quite new considering lead-light windows go back hundreds of years. It was used to great effect by Tiffany, which made it a popular technique. Plus reducing lead exposure is always a good thing! (My 113 year old house has two original "real" stained glass windows. I love them.)
Absolutely love your work. I stumbled onto your videos at 4 am and after that, I couldn't sleep. Love your stuff so much. Hugely inspiring to me as an artist. Can't wait to show your videos to my client.
No. It’s not stained glass. But, it does look really nice. Leading can be changed back to copper color using liquid patina. Nice project as always! Thank you Peter 🙏
I saw you at the art panel at Open Sauce last weekend and I wanted to say hi, but couldn't find you afterwards. I've been a follower for some time and it was great to hear you talk about this channel only being for fun and exploring creative curiosities, I really see that in your content, and it's really inspiring and exciting! I always look forward to your videos and hope you continue to make them in years to come :)
Ooooh!! Aspiring epoxy artist here- and I’ve never seen this copper ionization thingy you’re doing!! Fascinating!! So glad I stumbled over here. Thanks!!
i'm so glad that the shot time intro hasn't changed. Old subscriber coming back to you from years ago! I am still amazed! Keep up the good work, Peter!
Thats nuts. I like how the resin divots from surface tension, and that catches the light well. If the background was done that way, then was flipped over to fill in princess toadstool to forbid her divot, that would add a layer of depth to the piece when not lit from behind ❤
Marvelous. I live in Russia, and have been thinking about the same thing for a year now. Casting stained glass. When I was sharpening pens and talking closely on FB, I often saw how a certain idea visited many at the same time :).
Perhaps your most educational video yet. I've heard that one should sing happy birthday twice to know how long it takes to effectively wash your hands, but was unaware there was such a song for mixing resin. Thank you, Peter, from the 100 degree plus Sacramento area, for your educational content!
Saw this video in my Google feed, your intro was so funny I decided to stay. You're not a poor Craftsman, you're awesome. If I don't have the right tools for cooking or baking I improvise but it's not the same.
Wow, 5 years ago when i suggested this as a video idea, i never thought you would have seen it, let alone attempted it. Now you’ve done it again and I’m so happy! Thanks Peter. (I used to be known as Secret Star)
Hi Peter. I wanted to say thank you for the wake up call. I’m in the worst shape of my entire life after having 2 babies in 4 years and feeling stuck at home with babies and work. We finally started our now toddlers in daycare which has afforded me the freedom to do the bare minimum, a daily walk. Not only did your video wake me up to the physical and mental necessity of even that bare minimum, but it woke my husband up to my need for it. His actively encouraging me/not letting me brush off this walk when I normally would in favor of not leaving him alone with the kids out of distorted gender role expectations. So thank you.
How lovely! Some tips from resin crafters across youtube: You can spoon the resin in instead of trying to pipette it. A needle around the edges will help release bubbles and drag the resin to the edges. Use cricut transfer tape instead of the blue tape.
I love having a song to time the stirring the resin. it makes me smile! ooooohhhh pipettes!! thank you for that idea! I have some resin prints that I was wondering how to get the epoxy resin in the small areas! I loved stained glass windows when I was a kid so the thought of marrying my new passions (3d printing and resin pouring) with an old hobby brings me such joy! thanks for sharing this!
Absolutely gorgeous, I wonder could you do this using the uv resin so you that you wouldn't have to worry about it setting till you shine the uv light on it.
I have 6 floor te ceiling windows roughly 18 inches wide in my house and ive always wanted to make it look like stained glass so youve given me a WONDERFUL idea
HOLY I am obsessed. I went on a deep dive a couple weeks ago to see how to make fake stained glass for a cosplay project, and this video popped up in my recommended today. Definitely going to be trying this process out for my costume. Thanks for sharing!
This came out beautiful. I do similar pourings in conjunction with my cnc. You've given me ideas and inspirations for future carvings. Some tips I picked up over the years... I use vinyl contact shelf paper for the backing. It peels off easier than painter tape. I'll use up to three pipettes on a cup. They're cheap enough so use them. 2 can be filling while you pour with the 1st. Cleaner and more precise than pouring from the cup. Lastly, I use rubbing alcohol on a q-tip to swipe up those inevitable resin splatters. Awesome video. I'm fired up to go pour something now!😂
I love your videos Peter! Its been a while since I've seen one but I love coming back and seeing youre still going and binging them all. Keep up the awesome work!
Absolutely the best piece to select for stained glass attempt! Was having a sh*t day to put it mildly, but got really excited to see an upload from you and got to forget about everything else for a bit while enjoying something oddly satisfying ^_^ Only now, after almost 17 years of watching YT do I get people commenting such things, thanks man! Btw, you look great and hopefully you feel it, all the best!
Some tips if you try to do anymore large plating operations like this in the future (I work for a company that does electroplating on the industrial scale) the bumpiness you encountered is what is called dendrite formation, caused by uneven charge distribution. Plating occurs when electrons flow through the electrolyte from the cathode to the anode, causing metal deposition. The electrons will take every possible path, but will preferentially take easier paths first over harder ones, which means that you will plate first wherever the anode and cathode are closest. The ideal anode therefore is one that is an exact negative of your intended plating geometry, spaced at some distance away. That's unreasonable for this application, but you would could get much more even and faster results by using a copper plate or mesh, one on each side of the wooden form, so the faces plate first and then join in the middle. You could shave several days off your plating this way.
Peter, having done something similar, but with paint, it makes it easier to keep track of what has been filled by crossing out each segment on the master as you go. Finished product looks great.
This is the first video I have watched on this channel. And this is absolutely beautiful, just stunning. I myself have recently started working with epoxy resin. Just needing more supplies to see what I can make from it.
This turned out so freaking beautiful!!! Wow!!! And the whole time you were worrying about the dress I was like “peter no don’t worry its transparent and its on a darker color” lol!!! This is a serious undertaking and it is just an incredible result!!
This is so cool! It turned out awesome! 👑
Had a video idea i had to post here hoping Peter would see it:
Was wondering if you could take some of those long spiral sea shells (i dont know what they're actually called) and fill them with resin. Then you could disolve the outter shell with vinegar and itd leave just the resin "negative" showing the shape of the inside of the shell. Think thatd be super cool.
😊 2:40 😊😊😊
I'm thinking properly used alcohol ink could do the trick to make it look more like authentic stained glass.?
@@CJLinOHIO Alcohol ink would definitely work!
IDK why, but for some reason I'm just feeling extremely grateful right now that you're still making videos and sharing projects.
Same with me. This channel is one of those that I constantly go back to rewatch videos. Something about his videos.. They are just so comforting and entertaining. I love it
It's cuz he's so easy on the eyes😊
For me, it's great because he feels just like me, a guy with a handful of creative hobbies who just gets an idea and rolls with it. Alot of other makers expand and grow into projects that are way out of most people's reach, but Peter isn't doing anything I couldn't find a way to do with the tools I have and some extra time/patience.
Agreed, it's like a youtube teddybear. Instant comfort
I just found this channel and I find it lovely.
The knowledge is impressive but the patience is mind blowing.
Instead of throwing away the left over pieces, you could cover the top with tape in order to hold their relative positions, remove them all from the cutting plate as one unit, and then pour some resin over them to hold them together. After it cures you could even remove the tape and stain the newly exposed wood side.
It'd look more like a jigsaw puzzle than a stained glass window, but I imagine it'd be a pretty use of leftovers all the same.
That would be cool!
I was just thinking that
Make a second one and remove the wood and make it into a puzzle?
@@merlinswolf1
Because you'd be missing the lattice that was cut out from between all the pieces, they wouldn't fit together correctly if you tried to fit them flush against each other like a puzzle.
However, you could totally use the laser cutter to cut a wooden puzzle. You'd just have to specifically be trying to make a puzzle.
Could cut an extra frame piece around the outside to use with the loose pieces. Get some vinyl transfer tape like used with a cricut, lay it over the top to stick it to all the pieces then just removes the connected piece from it. The loose pieces would be ready to pour and then you would have the other main piece
Resin "stained glass" always looks more like enamel art to me more than actual stained glass, but I love enamel art (like enamel pins) so I would love to see more of it done with resin!
Cloisonne does share many qualities with resin "stained glass effect" the cupping of the fluid where the surface tension is higher near the barriers between colors.
Transparent pigments would help
We’ll do anything to not do proper cloisonné
Yep the non parallel surfaces and non clear colours are not like stained glass!
Still very impressive
@@tornagawn there is opaque glass used in stained glass work. typically transparent is used bc it still needs to function as a window but opaque goes well in decorative designs. and yea the meniscus in each section ruins the effects
If you try this again, perhaps use clear packing tape underneath and place the color printout below it so you will know where the colors go? Just a thought. Love your projects!
I just came to comment this, but for the reason that packing tape won't shred the way the painter's tape did. I use it with UV resin and it works quite well.
I was thinking to mark each void with a color code, but your idea is much easier and more elegant.
I’d suggest heat tape/kapton tape for the same reason. I might also suggest flipping the image during pour, since your tape side would look flatter and more uniform. However, since both sides are intended to be visible, that might not matter as much. It was really nice to see the skin tone did come out more warm as intended than was visible during the pour. Probably for the same reason the blue tape altered the dress color visibility during pour. Very nice work!
Apparently he did use packing tape the first time, and it leaked. I wonder if the painter's tape was cause it is more flexible and therefore creates a tighter seal.
I had almost the same thought, I was thinking contact paper might also do as it's just one big piece.
I love that the comments section is full of helpful suggestions for the next time! Here's one from me: To get resin - or anything that forms a meniscus - into those tricky corners, lead it with a pin or a needle. then you can add extra to fill up the space and it should cover it. I've done a similar trick with watercolors.
I had been wondering if you could do that with a toothpick, like with icing. Is a needle better?
@@clairepettie My thinking is that the needle is a finer point than a toothpick. You can absolutely use a toothpick though!
To avoid that copper buildup, you'll want to connect the workpiece in a few different places. You can also occasionally reverse the polarity to help take away the small nodes of copper.
...or just paint it.
@@HappyBuddhaBoydWouldn't that defeat the purpose of the copper coating?
Exactly. When I saw him connecting it in just one spot and relying on conductive paint I couldn't believe my eyes.
This is so cool! What do you think you’d have to charge to make it financially viable to sell these things? My guess it obscenely expensive 😂
@@Yoda63 I'd honestly use a decent copper acrylic marker instead. If you want to sell it, you're looking at making about 6p an hour doing it with actual metal unfortunately.
As a heads up for the copper plating, you can use Conductive Shielding Paint used for electric guitar cavities. It tends to be a bit cheaper and comes in large quantities.
Peter, you've got a decent set of pipes on you, I don't care _what_ your wife says! Good song, too. And the "stained glass" is very, very cool. Nice project. Your videos are always a treat, man.
Having made a few "stained glass" pieces like this one, I find that alcohol ink works great if you're looking to get a translucent look (like if you want to put it in a window or something).
What a fantastic project! One suggestion about the copper plating: there's an old gold plating trick that uses very little solution, and lets you spot-plate. It involves wrapping some open-celled foam over a copper wand, dipping it in your plating solution, connecting the power supply to the workpiece and the copper wand, and wiping the surface with the wand. This lets you target specific areas, and you can put on a very thin copper layer this way that is much more conductive than the paint, so after that you can plate the whole thing as usual and it should go faster. This should give you a more even plate without the over-plated areas close to the edge. But still, I think the main issue here was that most of the workpiece was too far away from the anodes, and the copper ions were plating out of the solution as soon as it got to the first conductive area, never making it to the center. So if you can find some copper screen that you can suspend over the whole workpiece, or even just a zig-zag of copper wire over the whole piece for the anode, the plating should go faster and more even.
I came down here to give similar plating advice but you already mentioned every tip I was thinking of!
I've seen some restoration channels use this trick with chrome plating too!
I just love how Peter sings when he’s doing things with his hands, it’s a vibe
So what would happen if you saved the cutouts and used resin as the fill to bind them instead? That might be a cool way to save the cutoffs.
Yessssss
Might be!
@@peterbrownwastaken I think if you try with gold resin it could look like the japanese art of kintsugi!
@mr.grotto9498 Agreed! At 1:19 my heart was burning when he tossed them in the trash... couldn't help saying out loud: "Oh noooo! You could have made a negative with those!"
Had that same thought, should be some way to use them that's still cool.
For the last 7 years your videos have been a comfort while sick. And while I sit here, once again with the flu, I am eternally grateful your calm speech and fun projects are there to ease my pain. Thanks man!
White pigment is trouble in this sort of medium since it blocks light. That's why the areas where you mixed in white appear lighter when viewed in normal light, but darker when lit from behind. Get lighter colors by using less pigment (or mixing in more clear resin), not by adding white pigment.
Another thing that could help if you do a similar project again would be to see if you can find some white tape for the back, so that you see the color of the resin as you work and not the tape. You could also experiment with using a washable gluestick on a piece of white backing. The glue should (hopefully!) prevent the resin from soaking into the backing, and should be fairly easy to remove with a wet sponge. Clearly this is something that should be tested before embarking on a project.
Rather than white tape I might suggest clear packing tape. It would allow for a white backdrop when needed but you could also place either a colored printout or a numbered lineart of the image behind it to try and help avoid missed cells like when he switched from the flowers to the leaves.
Adding less pigment only changes the saturation and opacity, not the hue. To get red to look pink you HAVE to add white. Adding less red only means the red is more see-through, not magically making it pink.
White pigments, usually Titanium Dioxide, are a heavy pigment. Even white glass is opaque compared to other colored glass.
@@Black-Swan-007what if you heavily diluted red and added just a touch of blue? Would that pass as pink, making a super diluted magenta?
I have several 100+ year old stained glass windows in my house and they all have panes of varying opacity. Particularly in white areas or in areas where white is added to lighten the hue. There's nothing he did here that isn't represented in actual stained glass pieces. You're right about it being noticeable but more so when it isn't being backlit. In my opinion the thing that makes this look less like stained glass work is the copper structure and not lead colored.
Hey Peter, if/when you try this again, use the trick from the old stained glass craft kits for kids, and use toothpicks to tease the resin into those super tricky spots!
You can also use silicon tipped clay shaping tools or the tiniest sizes of the metal ball tipped things. But honestly, I would probably use toothpicks with epoxy too. With UV I use the ball tips since I can always clean them off before they cure and they are easier to hold.
More copper wires from the negative to various spaced out spots on the part getting plated would improve plating speed and help even out the voltage. If what you're plating is actually metal and has a low resistance across its surface it won't matter as much but it will never hurt to use more.
This is wholesome, original style RUclips content. Love it!
I'd LOVE to see more of this stuff, this came out absolutely gorgeous. Peachy, even.
Before the pandemic, I used to make laser cut wood and resin jewelry, and it was super frustrating to do because of leakage. I'm so glad to see you doing a similar type of project!
Looks absolutely incredible! I know that the object is to not have air bubbles, but the few that actually remain make it look even more like actual stained glass!
yes! I was literally thinking the same thing. This is probably the most realistic looking resin stained glass I've seen someone do.
@@heehoopeanut420😅
😢😢😅😊
❤ any time Peter sings is a good day ❤ love the project as well
You're one of the few RUclips greats and I look forward to every video you put out! 👍👍👍
Thank you! I really do appreciate that!
I love hearing you sing instead of canned background music.
This is the first of your videos I’ve seen, but you now have a new follower.
Please keep making art so I can learn from you, and all the wonderful people in the comments!
Happy you're doing well peter, awesome to see you in good spirits🔥💯
The difference between her glove and skin tone is much easier to see with a back light. That's gorgeous! Good job!
"They say it's a poor craftsman who blames his tools, and I would agree with that.... because I am a poor craftsman". Felt that shit in my soul
That came out beautifully, Peter. With the light, you can see the subtle color added to her skin tone to differentiate from the glove, and it really does look like stained glass.
Oh yes, please, do another one!
It came out really really nice; it would be lovely if finished in a deep frame with light behind it (like a reverse shadow box?)
This guy sells his tools and somehow makes funnier, better, cooler projects literally every time for years???
lol I can’t explain how excited I got the second I heard, “I’m gonna copper plate it.” I knew it was gonna look great
I love copper plating stuff! It's seriously like low level magic. :)
Thank you for putting out videos. I love to watch you work, sing and enjoy yourself while working through projects. I very much enjoy that you add all of the misshapes, mistakes and worries. It reassures everyone that projects are not always perfect or even successful.
Thank you for everything you do!
That turned out really well, I love the look. If anyone is interested, you can also do this with a 3D FDM printer. If you plan to put it into a window or where it will get a lot of sun I recommend not using PLA (depending where you live) and printing it in a higher temp filament such as ASA.
Another style is using window privacy film behind the frame and covering it with clear (or slightly tinted) resin. It creates a fractal sun-catcher effect that casts rainbows.
Of course, if the copper plating is thick enough, it won't matter if the PLA melts!
@@BrightBlueJim That is true, and the inverse could be said that too thin and it would flake off with warping. Although I think I would prefer to print in bronze and sand it down afterward if I wanted the metal color, or use paint, or silver filament. That is what I love about these hobbies, so many ways to do things!
Wow, I audibly gasped when it came out of the copper solution. So beautiful. The finished project is gorgeous and that step makes such a difference!
OMG, the re-intro in the back caught me off guard 😂
Totally Amazing! Cannot believe it isn't stained glass! You rocked it!
I was with one of the makerspace groups at Open Sauce and it was a pleasure meeting you there! This project came out so well and Im looking forward to seeing more of this technique (and anything else you create) in the future :)
The one from Ventura or a different one?
@@peterbrownwastaken the one from Ventura!
@@jaelenhsu Your booth was amazing!
@@peterbrownwastaken Thanks so much! So glad to have met you there, drop in sometime if you're ever passing through :)
Oh my gosh! I’m glad to know I’m not the only one who likes that song. Love it! The stained glass piece is gorgeous.
This just might be one of or the coolest projects youve made!! Turned out basically perfect!
Art, science and crafting all rolled into one project. And more lovely singing.
I like!
i know people have already suggested saving the cut outs and filling the frame with resin, but go a step further and plate the cut outs with different metal colors(if other metals are possible), might give like a steam punk vibe
as much effort as you put in, it's epic. well done.
You sir, are a natural for this format. Wasn't planning on watching the entire video, just get ideas. I watched the entire thing and learned a lot while enjoying the video. Well done!
First when you poured the red or pink onto the blue tape it looked kinda trippy on camera. You were pouring red but came out purple. Also good call the different whites especially in the light you can see the difference. Absolutely amazing piece.
Ya I had to pause at that point 😅 pretty sure the pink was translucent so the pink over the blue tape made it purple
Thank you Peter and Total Boat.
Nintendo would be proud to see such an incredible tribute.
I think this turned out pretty good job! Keep it up.
Thank you!
This was extremely fun to watch. For some reason the pouring resin into the piece was so relaxing to watch. I'm so glad it turned out so well! We want to try this out.
Impressive! Must’ve been a tedious process. Was concerned the seams in the packing tape were going to leave lines. But it doesn’t seem so! Maybe next you’ll have to enlist someone to do an illustration featuring images of all the different non traditional pigments you’ve had success with, and then you can fill the voids inside each design with those materials. Well done!
I did a little wood and metal work in previous semesters, and just love these processes. The end result with that light coming through is awesome. Thank you for your amazing videos!
If I may make a suggestion: use the old chemistry trick of pouring your liquid down a thin rod or even a piece of wire. Rest the end of the wire in the selected cell, bring the lip of the pouring container into contact with the wire, then pour the resin down the wire. Surface tension will keep the resin traveling down the wire and will prevent random drips. It’s virtually impossible to miss the cell with this technique. Nice job!
Greetings from Saudi Arabia 🇸🇦 ❤️
Please keep up what you are doing and don't stop, i can't imagine youtube without you
Love how she came out❤
I saw Evan and Katelyn do one and was wondering if you were going to revisit it as you now own a laser engraver/cutter 😊
Seeing that beast at work makes my new mini laser seem like a toy 😅
Maybe next time have a mould to put the excess resin into 😊
It reminds me of these little oven crafts we had as kids. You had a metal design that you filled in like you did as a paint by number with plastic beads. Then you put them in the oven. Came out looking about as much like stained glass as yours did. Such nostalgia, ty.
Technically... stained glass is where you paint the glass and put it in an oven to set the dyes into the glass. Compositing pieces of glass in a frame is properly called lead-lighting. Stained glass is almost always used as a component in lead-light, but lead-light windows do not require stained glass. Either way, this is a nifty idea... and who cares that it's not metal and glass?
I didn't know that. Thank you for sharing!
@@peterbrownwastaken To add it bit to what @djeity said... The copper foil technique is quite new considering lead-light windows go back hundreds of years. It was used to great effect by Tiffany, which made it a popular technique. Plus reducing lead exposure is always a good thing! (My 113 year old house has two original "real" stained glass windows. I love them.)
Absolutely love your work. I stumbled onto your videos at 4 am and after that, I couldn't sleep. Love your stuff so much. Hugely inspiring to me as an artist. Can't wait to show your videos to my client.
Peaches, peaches, peaches...
peaches, peaches, Peaches, peaches, peaches, peaches, I love you, oh...
Id imagine this was super tedious to make, but my goodness this was satisfying to watch
No. It’s not stained glass.
But, it does look really nice.
Leading can be changed back to copper color using liquid patina.
Nice project as always!
Thank you Peter 🙏
After all these years watching you i am finally giving a shot to resin! I want to start my own shop
I love these videos so much. When I ran out of yours I tried to find something similar, but none of them captivated me as much as these.
I saw you at the art panel at Open Sauce last weekend and I wanted to say hi, but couldn't find you afterwards. I've been a follower for some time and it was great to hear you talk about this channel only being for fun and exploring creative curiosities, I really see that in your content, and it's really inspiring and exciting! I always look forward to your videos and hope you continue to make them in years to come :)
man, that turned out fantastic! Great job, Peter!
Respect for making that. I added a black paint background to a 3D printed sign and it was almost impossible to spread the liquid.
Ooooh!! Aspiring epoxy artist here- and I’ve never seen this copper ionization thingy you’re doing!! Fascinating!! So glad I stumbled over here. Thanks!!
LOVED hearing you sing! So sweet!
i'm so glad that the shot time intro hasn't changed. Old subscriber coming back to you from years ago! I am still amazed! Keep up the good work, Peter!
Thats nuts. I like how the resin divots from surface tension, and that catches the light well. If the background was done that way, then was flipped over to fill in princess toadstool to forbid her divot, that would add a layer of depth to the piece when not lit from behind ❤
Thank you Peter for an amazing comeback. These videos honestly make my day.
Marvelous.
I live in Russia, and have been thinking about the same thing for a year now. Casting stained glass.
When I was sharpening pens and talking closely on FB, I often saw how a certain idea visited many at the same time :).
Omg! I haven't heard that song for 30 years. Great work
Perhaps your most educational video yet.
I've heard that one should sing happy birthday twice to know how long it takes to effectively wash your hands, but was unaware there was such a song for mixing resin.
Thank you, Peter, from the 100 degree plus Sacramento area, for your educational content!
I was thinking “If you said this was glass, I’d totally believe you”, then you said it. Just amazing work. You’re a patient man!
Oh yeah, and I know your family is going to totally love that piece. It's pretty cool. I always enjoy your videos.
Saw this video in my Google feed, your intro was so funny I decided to stay. You're not a poor Craftsman, you're awesome. If I don't have the right tools for cooking or baking I improvise but it's not the same.
Wow, 5 years ago when i suggested this as a video idea, i never thought you would have seen it, let alone attempted it. Now you’ve done it again and I’m so happy! Thanks Peter. (I used to be known as Secret Star)
You're so great to watch and listen to. Keeping it real. I love it. Good job!
Hi Peter. I wanted to say thank you for the wake up call. I’m in the worst shape of my entire life after having 2 babies in 4 years and feeling stuck at home with babies and work. We finally started our now toddlers in daycare which has afforded me the freedom to do the bare minimum, a daily walk. Not only did your video wake me up to the physical and mental necessity of even that bare minimum, but it woke my husband up to my need for it. His actively encouraging me/not letting me brush off this walk when I normally would in favor of not leaving him alone with the kids out of distorted gender role expectations. So thank you.
This looks like it took a lot of time, effort, and screaming. It also looks amazing. Good on you Peter.
How lovely! Some tips from resin crafters across youtube: You can spoon the resin in instead of trying to pipette it. A needle around the edges will help release bubbles and drag the resin to the edges. Use cricut transfer tape instead of the blue tape.
I got stupidly excited when I saw this. Everything about this. Just yes.
Really enjoyed this one. There's just something so satisfying about filling in block colours like that
I love having a song to time the stirring the resin. it makes me smile! ooooohhhh pipettes!! thank you for that idea! I have some resin prints that I was wondering how to get the epoxy resin in the small areas! I loved stained glass windows when I was a kid so the thought of marrying my new passions (3d printing and resin pouring) with an old hobby brings me such joy! thanks for sharing this!
Absolutely one of the coolest things you've ever made
Absolutely gorgeous, I wonder could you do this using the uv resin so you that you wouldn't have to worry about it setting till you shine the uv light on it.
I have 6 floor te ceiling windows roughly 18 inches wide in my house and ive always wanted to make it look like stained glass so youve given me a WONDERFUL idea
That turned out great! It was good to hear you sing again
HOLY I am obsessed. I went on a deep dive a couple weeks ago to see how to make fake stained glass for a cosplay project, and this video popped up in my recommended today. Definitely going to be trying this process out for my costume. Thanks for sharing!
This came out beautiful. I do similar pourings in conjunction with my cnc. You've given me ideas and inspirations for future carvings.
Some tips I picked up over the years... I use vinyl contact shelf paper for the backing. It peels off easier than painter tape. I'll use up to three pipettes on a cup. They're cheap enough so use them. 2 can be filling while you pour with the 1st. Cleaner and more precise than pouring from the cup. Lastly, I use rubbing alcohol on a q-tip to swipe up those inevitable resin splatters.
Awesome video. I'm fired up to go pour something now!😂
I love your videos Peter! Its been a while since I've seen one but I love coming back and seeing youre still going and binging them all. Keep up the awesome work!
Absolutely the best piece to select for stained glass attempt! Was having a sh*t day to put it mildly, but got really excited to see an upload from you and got to forget about everything else for a bit while enjoying something oddly satisfying ^_^ Only now, after almost 17 years of watching YT do I get people commenting such things, thanks man! Btw, you look great and hopefully you feel it, all the best!
Some tips if you try to do anymore large plating operations like this in the future (I work for a company that does electroplating on the industrial scale) the bumpiness you encountered is what is called dendrite formation, caused by uneven charge distribution. Plating occurs when electrons flow through the electrolyte from the cathode to the anode, causing metal deposition. The electrons will take every possible path, but will preferentially take easier paths first over harder ones, which means that you will plate first wherever the anode and cathode are closest. The ideal anode therefore is one that is an exact negative of your intended plating geometry, spaced at some distance away. That's unreasonable for this application, but you would could get much more even and faster results by using a copper plate or mesh, one on each side of the wooden form, so the faces plate first and then join in the middle. You could shave several days off your plating this way.
Peter, having done something similar, but with paint, it makes it easier to keep track of what has been filled by crossing out each segment on the master as you go. Finished product looks great.
Some projects are a lot of work, but it does pay off, it looks amazing!
Great project. The singing was a pleasant bonus.
the yellow in the white for the skin tone came out so good!
This looks amazing. It really did turn out better than expected. If I didn't watch you male this I would think it's just stained glass.
This is the first video I have watched on this channel. And this is absolutely beautiful, just stunning. I myself have recently started working with epoxy resin. Just needing more supplies to see what I can make from it.
So glad your nerves held out. Looks awesome.
This turned out so freaking beautiful!!! Wow!!!
And the whole time you were worrying about the dress I was like “peter no don’t worry its transparent and its on a darker color” lol!!! This is a serious undertaking and it is just an incredible result!!