I like the fact that even when yo explained certain things already in other tutorials you still treat many other tutorials as a new one and explain it again as if it's the first time on your channel. :)
The Glass bodge in the center of the bulb is to help retain the vacuum seal in the bulb. It lets the filaments make good electrical contact with the outside cathode/anode by being rigid, and maintains the seal on the internal vacuum by having very limited air permiability, like the rest of the glass in the bulb. Can't make it out of metal because it would short the filaments, and plastic would let in air.
Glass is used because it's melted to the globe to make it a single piece of glass. Search for 'how it's made incandescent light bulbs' here on RUclips if you want to see the process, it's pretty neat.
The 2 small wires in the middle are too support the filament. They are thin so that they provide a greater resistance than the rest of the metal (except from the filament itself). This means that less current flows through it. It also does not matter that it has less resistance than the filament as the current must still flow through the filament to complete the circuit (just in case you wonder how it didn't affect that).
@@maddocksjos No current flows in the support wires as the glass they are stuck in is an insulator. Sorry for the necro post but I just couldn't let that stand unaddressed.
Been searching for the purpose of the hole in the glass mount. I suspect it's possibly there to help dissipate heat? I'm surprised at how difficult it is to find info on that. Well found my answer right here on youtube. The hole is simply the end of a tube used for applying vacuum and adding argon to the bulb. The exiting end is then melted and sealed off.
I was looking for info on this. The glass mount does look to be hollow with sort of a tube leading up to that hole. I thought maybe it was used to create a vacuum inside the bulb. I wonder if the tube is then sealed with molten glass? Edit: found my answer. The opposite end of the tube is melted and pinched off to seal the bulb.
for those who really want to have the screw type bit of the light bulb, there is an addon that can serve as a starting point. first, go to File > User Preferences > Add-ons, type 'Extra Objects' and activate the addon called 'Add Mesh: Extra Objects' then, do Add > Mesh > Gears > Worm, from there you can tweak the settings to get the desired result
I started modeling bulb in blender 2.3 after finishing all the other tutorials. I wanted to say thanks! This is probably the first tutorial where, thanks to the experience from the first tutorials and also thanks to the blender 2.3 (which is quite easier), I create a light bulb by myself! (I apologize for my poor English) ;)
Worthwhile watching this all the way through! The Screw + Curve modifier demo is awesome and shows how powerful the non-destructive modifier stack really is. Nice one Andrew!!
Quite disappointed that the screw part is not included, that was actually one of the most interesting parts to model in a lightbulb. I'll follow this tutorial anyway, but I'll have to find other ones on this part specifically.
I done it in very cheaty way - when you finish botom cylinder - ctrl+r to add 4 loops, after ctrl+b to beavel them. choose pivot point to individual origin / rotate edges in y (so they are imitate spiral), extruse loop of faces with scale inside and after apply subdivision surface - no one will not notice that is actually not spiral around socket and just 4 extrusion ))
handy tip for Mac users (though this might work on Windows too) you can use Blenders file browser in conjunction with your computers built in file browser (File Explorer on Windows and Finder on Mac) just drag the picture you want to use from your computers file browser or from your desktop and place it in the file name box on blenders file browser; blender will automatically select the picture
19:50 if you look closely there's a tube inside the cylinder like thing and the hole is connected to that tube.That tube is used to draw vacuum and to fill the bulb with argon(or whatever inert gas they use).
Another tip which I think works on all trackpads but I might be completely wrong, I know this works on a Mac trackpad: if you pinch to zoom on some menus like the toolbars or the properties on the right, all the menu options will grow smaller or bigger depending on if you pinch in or out. I suspect there's a way to do this on a 3 button mouse too but I haven't got a clue how
Awesome teacher. I like how you go into tiny steps and key presses and tips. I don't even have blender installed but found the video interesting. Some tutorials, people just fly through it and you try to keep up and it's a pain because they go quick and miss many steps and tips. Glass mount/stem: Holds the support wires and allows the electrical wires to run through the envelope without any gas/air leaks because the bulb is filled with an inert gas. It's filled with gas because if the oxygen of the air reached the hot filament, it would be rapidly oxidized and destroyed. Support wires: As the name suggests, support the filament from bouncing and stretching to extremes when the bulb is moved or bumped or jolted. The filament can break easily. Cap: The metal base of the bulb. Glass envelope: Thin outside layer of glass which surrounds the bulbs mechanism and holds the gas. Interesting fact: The filament in a average 60w bulb is about 2 meters long!
Hey Andrew, hey guys! Thank you for your really great tutorials! My very first render was the "water poured into a glass" tut and now I`m trying to do some interieur stuff. I found a quite simple way to do the screw bayonett. Just use the bolt addon, that`s already built into the newest Blender 2.78 version (user preferences -> add-ons -> search -> boltfactory), tweak the screw in height etc, delete the head and here you go! Greets from Germany!
1."mogul base" light bulb / Screw type 2. Simplified Explanation: The Filament is the working element of this bulb. Thanks for another great Video Kind sir PS Thank You for the Blender Keyboard shortcuts PDF! Very Epic of you Sir.
I loved how you just completely got off the point and talked about how you didn't manage to change the lightbulb in your home... Though I did skip it, it was very sympathetic :D Subbed! Plus your tutorials are great!
32:55 The bulb you're modeling is a tungsten filament bulb, tungsten is really hard but cant resist stretching and bending that well, the extra struts (the small middle ones) are just there for support and do not conduct any electricity.
Apparently the mount is made out of glass in order to guide the wire gas-tight to the filament. So basically it stops the gas from leaking out and causing pressure differences and therefore explosions. Also, thank you for this tutorial, taught me a lot! :)
Just for you Andrew, and anyone else interested... That glass "mount" inside the bulb is just that, a means to securely hold the live/neutral leads in place but it also acts as an insulator to keep the two leads from touching directly and shorting. They can only be connected via the small spring-like filament. The two leads are also connected respectively to the screw/bayonet housing( usually neutral) and the small steel nipple protruding directly from the bottom of the bulb (usually live), these two surfaces are in turn isolated/separated by the black glass also found at the bottom of the bulb so they don't touch and short out once inside the socket. That glass "mount' is also a means to seal the inside of the bulb with an oxygen free vacuum. The thin spring-like filament is made from tungsten which has a high melting temperature, but it will still melt into a liquid state if heated in an oxygen rich environment. But if it is in turn heated to a high temp by sending an AC current through it in a vacuum which is devoid of any oxygen it will instead glow, and not melt, and give off the light we take for granted in out very day lives. The two smaller arms in the middle, with the distinct curves at their end, is simply supports to keep the filament as straight as possible. Hope this helps :) Thank you for the outstanding videos!
@Blender Guru, I am actually at newbie part 2 (beginners Series), and to be honest, your videos have been a great help comparing to others out there, kudos!!
hey Andrew loved the video when i made this in 2.79 - but recently tried to re do it in 2.8, and am having issues, and was wondering if you could do a tutorial similar to this in 2.8 to give people a hand. it'd be greatly appreciated
Not sure if you still read these as this is a pretty old video but I wanted to add something I have found in my own experimentation... I kept saying to my self "I'm sure someone else has done this" But recently started working on a similar project as I needed a lightbulb for a closeup of an upcoming piece. I discovered the power and versatility of the BoltFactory addon. A built in addonscript that is included in all versions of blender after 2.5 that I have since been effectively relying on for all of my screws and threads. I had originally passed it up because the bolt head geometry it creates is very inefficient . But I recently discovered that the geometry it creates for the threads is nearly perfect and it's very easy to configure for many purposes and only required a few minutes of fiddling to get it exactly the way I wanted for this project. Would highly recommend anyone using blender become familiar with the bolt primitive as it has become my go to way of making geometry like this without messing with the screw modifier
Love this tutorial. I was making lightbulbs in blender and the way they generated ambient light was terrible before this. Thankyou Blender Guru for the upload!
EXCELLENT TUTORIAL. I downloaded blender a week ago. I can't stop because of your tuts. . It more addictive then anything else. I just want to build 3d objects! I know how much knowledge is there and how little i know now. I am amazed that we are able to create such things. I spent 3 days on bumps...so far i know your only licked the topic. There is much more to understand and to do it in PS. Thank You. Your tutorials motivate me very much. In fact imho you are one of the best teachers in yt.
Awesome tutorial, cant believe anyone would thumbs down this video, guess you cannot please everyone even if you help them for free. Thanx for the videos
The glass tube mount is called a "glass fuse enclosure" where the wires travel through for support, I imagine it's made of glass because any other material would upset the function of the bulb as it would react, the hole in the glass would be for mass production purposes such as where it was held during its make.
Not sure if this is already in the comments but I will mention just in case. The two thick wires are for the electric current, it's why they connect to either end of the filament. Because these wires are primary structure and current load they need to be a little more robust. The thin wires are to help stabilize the filament so it doesn't bounce around as much. You will notice that those thin wires embedded in the glass don't connect to anything. It's thin for three reasons, prevent stress on the glass from different co efficient of expansion between metal and glass, cost of materials and manufacturing, and a thin wire will pull less heat/ energy from the filament making it more efficient.
The little wires in the middle are there to support the filament because when it heats up when current is flowing through it the filament loses structural strength and without the supports would break very quickly.
Excellent tutorial bro. I just recently came back to the 3D world and this was an excellent exercise to get familiar once again with Blender and the tools it has.
The high melting point of the filament makes it glow for long time. The glass there is for insulation, so the "right" filament is glowing and not the others
The bit in the center of the light bulb serves two purposes; firstly, it _is_ a support structure for the filament, and secondarily, but even more importantly, is the reason it's hollow; incandescent light bulbs operate under an inert atmosphere to allow the the filament (usually tungsten) to glow for as long as possible without degrading too quickly. A pipette-like tube of glass is attached to the bulb before final assembly, which is used to evacuate any air inside the bulb itself, and then re-pressurize the bulb to ambient pressure with whatever inert gas they use (I'm not sure which, though probably Nitrogen or Argon). The tube is melted and sealed as soon as it's re-pressurized.
Thank you so much for all of these amazing tutorials, for free! It is just so much value. You are helping a lot of people with their passions, careers, or just to have a nice skill to show to friends :)
Hey Andrew another way to do the hole in the middle of that "thing" is to select each face and inset both of them and then bridge edge loops should be the same result
If you want to avoid pinching at the poles of a UV sphere, I would recommend using a cube. Apply a subdivision surface modifier with 3 subdivisions. With the modifier applied, enter edit mode, select everything and use the 'to sphere' command on alt+shift+S and set the value to one. That way, the sphere has eight three-edge poles, which do not cause surface artifacts when subdividing further, rather than two 32-edged ones, which do.
first of all, Thankyou very much for providing such great tutorials. I just started a week ago and i rendered my first image by referring this tutorial. Its not as good but still good. Love from INDIA....
I think the screw type sockets are called "edison", and the reason the glass thing is hollow (in the center glass bit that holds the filament holder) is so they have an easy job filling the lightbulb with gas before sealing it, watching how do they do it helps a lot ;)
Anyone struggling with the screw bottom can add it really fast using the built-in addon "Add Mesh: BoltFactory". Add a bolt and set the head values to 0. Screw bottom done! Tweak the settings to get the screw you are looking for and then scale it.
The two inner wires are just to support the filament, one outside wire goes to the base (screw) the other goes to the very bottom for an electrical contact.
love your videos and your work at blender.. saw your blender conference talk and was very happy to saw it! Looking forward to your future tutorials.. wish you would do one about animations or VFX.. or a car crash
Blender guru, I love you, totally no homo though.... just in a bromance kind of way nomsayin'. Cause your tutorials are amazing. To anyone thinking of purchasing any of their tutorials, they are top notch fyi.
Hi! if you don't modify the sphere you can hit F6 and will pop-up a window with the properties of the sphere. This can be use for every thing you do, like bevel, extrude etc...
You can use the "BoltFactory" plugin; it allows you to quickly generate nuts and bolts; then you just manually remove the head and you are left with the screw end... Settings would be something like: TYPE: BOLT HEAD: COUNTER SINK HEAD DIA: 5.50 SHANK LENGTH: 0 SHANK DIA: 3.0 THREAD LENGTH: 1.14 MAJOR DIA: 3.00 MINOR DIA: 2.50 PITCH: 0.68 CREST PERCENT: 33 ROOT PERCENT: 36 Of course, it needs a bit of refining, but altogether it takes about 10 mins. (The plugin needs to be enabled in User preferences, then the bolt can be inserted in object mode).
I think the thicker arms on the side are simply to hold the filament, and the thinner wires with loopy heads are supposed to stop the filament from vibrating. When the filament is broken, and you barely touch the light bulb, you see the filament waving around out of control. I think the thinner arms are supposed to dampen the vibration. But it might not be true at all :P
The internal glass structure with the monolith-like circle hole in it... You say it would have been hard to do with a cylinder, but I wonder if the "To Sphere" tool (Ctrl-Shift-S) could have been used with a subdivided square face of the cylinder to create a circular face, which then could have been extruded in like you did, or bridged over in another fashion. Just a thought, not a criticism - because your result was fantastic as is! Thanks for another great video.
For me it is literally vice versa. I can't model crap but I can make any kind of material for some reason. ayy.... Wanna start a company together? haha
Plester I've watched the PBR tutorials from price to cgmasters.Still cant replicate.Maybe its the paid programs idk.But hey.I aint gonna stop trying lol
great to watch. I read a rumour that curves is getting a major overhaul. If this is true I cant wait. After using Maya, its really hard to use Blenders curves. I really miss Maya's Snap to Curve tool.
I was thinking aroudhow in the name of christ would I be able to make the lightbulb. And guess what, of course I couldn't and before I tampered blender to make it, I navigated youtube and found out this tutorial.......Hats Off to you Andrew.... P.S. Nice to share the short "Lightbulb epic" story Andrew, of how you saved your time!!!!!!
Technical Stuff: the base cap covers the gas inlet tube (argon gas which prevents the filament from oxidizing and burning through in an oxygen environment) which opens inside the bulb, that little hole you see there. The filament is made of tungsten which will glow warm white in in a zero oxygen enclosure. The black disc under the aluminium houses two lead covered contacts that lead up to the filament feelers allowing electrical current to flow through the resistive tungsten and heating it to near melting point..
The filament is held in glass because it can take the extreme heat, it is insulating the wires and it will extend or contract with the glass of the bulb. It is also used to fill the bulb with an inert gas that won't oxidise the tungsten wire and burn it. The hole in the middle is probably a residue from the manufacturing with no real purpose.
This was awesome This series is awesome will you please, please, please create a series of blender which includes begininner in aimation and compositing it in after effects
FYI: There is a reason the filament mount is hollow with a tube in it. It's via this tube the gas is evacuated from the bulb (and inert gasses added) during manufacturing. What is more the little hole is left over from the manufacturing process.
I finally got a powerful machine. I'm still stuck with the cube though. This year I will learn some Blender. Someday, this year! =) Great tutorial by the way!
Hey, great video. Btw there is a "How it's made" on RUclips about bulbs, it explains all the bits are for. Also if you were trying to be super accurate seeing exactly how its made is a good way to get the right shapes, but that's defiantly not required for this project.
I'm not entirely sure about the smaller wires in terms of functionality but I know that for any electrical circuit to operate there needs to be a current travelling to "ground", so there's an incoming current, of electricity, but for the current to actually do anything there needs to be an escape, the "ground", without the escape the light bulb won't turn on.
I like the fact that even when yo explained certain things already in other tutorials you still treat many other tutorials as a new one and explain it again as if it's the first time on your channel. :)
oh shit
this might not be for me then
Watching this 5 years after it was uploaded...still pretty useful
You've been really getting better at becoming beginner friendly. I feel like your explanations have become a lot better!
The Glass bodge in the center of the bulb is to help retain the vacuum seal in the bulb. It lets the filaments make good electrical contact with the outside cathode/anode by being rigid, and maintains the seal on the internal vacuum by having very limited air permiability, like the rest of the glass in the bulb. Can't make it out of metal because it would short the filaments, and plastic would let in air.
Glass is used because it's melted to the globe to make it a single piece of glass. Search for 'how it's made incandescent light bulbs' here on RUclips if you want to see the process, it's pretty neat.
The 2 small wires in the middle are too support the filament. They are thin so that they provide a greater resistance than the rest of the metal (except from the filament itself). This means that less current flows through it.
It also does not matter that it has less resistance than the filament as the current must still flow through the filament to complete the circuit (just in case you wonder how it didn't affect that).
@@maddocksjos No current flows in the support wires as the glass they are stuck in is an insulator.
Sorry for the necro post but I just couldn't let that stand unaddressed.
Been searching for the purpose of the hole in the glass mount. I suspect it's possibly there to help dissipate heat? I'm surprised at how difficult it is to find info on that.
Well found my answer right here on youtube. The hole is simply the end of a tube used for applying vacuum and adding argon to the bulb. The exiting end is then melted and sealed off.
Pleaseeee, make this tutorial for 2.8!!!.... yours tutorials are the best!
For 2.8 its even simpler: Shift-A > Image > Background
Why background when you can add a reference image
@@vuk_ustipak Because with a background image you can model over it. Whereas, a reference photo you can only copy what you see. But I use both.
Thanks man! Really helps!
Hey Andrew
This little hole in the glas at 19:55 is to put the gas (argon) into the lamp.Great tutorial btw =)cheers
I was looking for info on this. The glass mount does look to be hollow with sort of a tube leading up to that hole. I thought maybe it was used to create a vacuum inside the bulb. I wonder if the tube is then sealed with molten glass?
Edit: found my answer. The opposite end of the tube is melted and pinched off to seal the bulb.
for those who really want to have the screw type bit of the light bulb, there is an addon that can serve as a starting point.
first, go to File > User Preferences > Add-ons, type 'Extra Objects' and activate the addon called 'Add Mesh: Extra Objects'
then, do Add > Mesh > Gears > Worm, from there you can tweak the settings to get the desired result
wow so easy :D thanks
I started modeling bulb in blender 2.3 after finishing all the other tutorials. I wanted to say thanks! This is probably the first tutorial where, thanks to the experience from the first tutorials and also thanks to the blender 2.3 (which is quite easier), I create a light bulb by myself! (I apologize for my poor English) ;)
subscribed, Never seen a detailed tutorial like this and motivated teacher.
Worthwhile watching this all the way through! The Screw + Curve modifier demo is awesome and shows how powerful the non-destructive modifier stack really is. Nice one Andrew!!
your tutorials are so helpfull!! i cant believe how much i learned in just a month, the scenes from my game look so cool now! :)
Great! Glad they've been helpful :)
his modeling is really good
where is the game?:)
Quite disappointed that the screw part is not included, that was actually one of the most interesting parts to model in a lightbulb. I'll follow this tutorial anyway, but I'll have to find other ones on this part specifically.
tried, too hard for me :D im just gonna do it his way
Create a cylinder, create a screw just like the filament, use boolean and union.
and how exactly do you smoothen the intersection parts that look sharp and unrealistic?
maybe the add-on BoltFactory might help
I done it in very cheaty way - when you finish botom cylinder - ctrl+r to add 4 loops, after ctrl+b to beavel them. choose pivot point to individual origin / rotate edges in y (so they are imitate spiral), extruse loop of faces with scale inside and after apply subdivision surface - no one will not notice that is actually not spiral around socket and just 4 extrusion ))
handy tip for Mac users (though this might work on Windows too) you can use Blenders file browser in conjunction with your computers built in file browser (File Explorer on Windows and Finder on Mac) just drag the picture you want to use from your computers file browser or from your desktop and place it in the file name box on blenders file browser; blender will automatically select the picture
19:50 if you look closely there's a tube inside the cylinder like thing and the hole is connected to that tube.That tube is used to draw vacuum and to fill the bulb with argon(or whatever inert gas they use).
Another tip which I think works on all trackpads but I might be completely wrong, I know this works on a Mac trackpad: if you pinch to zoom on some menus like the toolbars or the properties on the right, all the menu options will grow smaller or bigger depending on if you pinch in or out. I suspect there's a way to do this on a 3 button mouse too but I haven't got a clue how
Awesome teacher. I like how you go into tiny steps and key presses and tips. I don't even have blender installed but found the video interesting. Some tutorials, people just fly through it and you try to keep up and it's a pain because they go quick and miss many steps and tips.
Glass mount/stem: Holds the support wires and allows the electrical wires to run through the envelope without any gas/air leaks because the bulb is filled with an inert gas. It's filled with gas because if the oxygen of the air reached the hot filament, it would be rapidly oxidized and destroyed.
Support wires: As the name suggests, support the filament from bouncing and stretching to extremes when the bulb is moved or bumped or jolted. The filament can break easily.
Cap: The metal base of the bulb.
Glass envelope: Thin outside layer of glass which surrounds the bulbs mechanism and holds the gas.
Interesting fact: The filament in a average 60w bulb is about 2 meters long!
Hey Andrew, hey guys!
Thank you for your really great tutorials!
My very first render was the "water poured into a glass" tut and now I`m trying to do some interieur stuff.
I found a quite simple way to do the screw bayonett. Just use the bolt addon, that`s already built into the newest Blender 2.78 version (user preferences -> add-ons -> search -> boltfactory), tweak the screw in height etc, delete the head and here you go!
Greets from Germany!
Thanks for the tip!
wow thx man!
At 38:50 you could also use the Flip option in the Screw modifier to flip the normals. Easier and perhaps better than rotating the circle.
I'm totally blown away by the number of tools included in this software!
1."mogul base" light bulb / Screw type
2. Simplified Explanation: The Filament is the working element of this bulb.
Thanks for another great Video Kind sir
PS
Thank You for the Blender Keyboard shortcuts PDF!
Very Epic of you Sir.
I loved how you just completely got off the point and talked about how you didn't manage to change the lightbulb in your home... Though I did skip it, it was very sympathetic :D Subbed!
Plus your tutorials are great!
Andrew, again a big thank you for all the inspirations and the patience to teaching us newbies. Great tutorial.
32:55 The bulb you're modeling is a tungsten filament bulb, tungsten is really hard but cant resist stretching and bending that well, the extra struts (the small middle ones) are just there for support and do not conduct any electricity.
about to answer his question, yet i found your comment. nice. XD
The curves and the screw modifiers were the most helpful in my opinion.
Apparently the mount is made out of glass in order to guide the wire gas-tight to the filament. So basically it stops the gas from leaking out and causing pressure differences and therefore explosions.
Also, thank you for this tutorial, taught me a lot! :)
Just for you Andrew, and anyone else interested...
That glass "mount" inside the bulb is just that, a means to securely hold the live/neutral leads in place but it also acts as an insulator to keep the two leads from touching directly and shorting. They can only be connected via the small spring-like filament. The two leads are also connected respectively to the screw/bayonet housing( usually neutral) and the small steel nipple protruding directly from the bottom of the bulb (usually live), these two surfaces are in turn isolated/separated by the black glass also found at the bottom of the bulb so they don't touch and short out once inside the socket.
That glass "mount' is also a means to seal the inside of the bulb with an oxygen free vacuum. The thin spring-like filament is made from tungsten which has a high melting temperature, but it will still melt into a liquid state if heated in an oxygen rich environment. But if it is in turn heated to a high temp by sending an AC current through it in a vacuum which is devoid of any oxygen it will instead glow, and not melt, and give off the light we take for granted in out very day lives.
The two smaller arms in the middle, with the distinct curves at their end, is simply supports to keep the filament as straight as possible.
Hope this helps :)
Thank you for the outstanding videos!
@Blender Guru, I am actually at newbie part 2 (beginners Series), and to be honest, your videos have been a great help comparing to others out there, kudos!!
Loving this! Have to model sort of an interior for my college project right now and this is saaaving my life! Thanks!
hey Andrew loved the video when i made this in 2.79 - but recently tried to re do it in 2.8, and am having issues, and was wondering if you could do a tutorial similar to this in 2.8 to give people a hand. it'd be greatly appreciated
Not sure if you still read these as this is a pretty old video but I wanted to add something I have found in my own experimentation... I kept saying to my self "I'm sure someone else has done this" But recently started working on a similar project as I needed a lightbulb for a closeup of an upcoming piece. I discovered the power and versatility of the BoltFactory addon. A built in addonscript that is included in all versions of blender after 2.5 that I have since been effectively relying on for all of my screws and threads. I had originally passed it up because the bolt head geometry it creates is very inefficient . But I recently discovered that the geometry it creates for the threads is nearly perfect and it's very easy to configure for many purposes and only required a few minutes of fiddling to get it exactly the way I wanted for this project. Would highly recommend anyone using blender become familiar with the bolt primitive as it has become my go to way of making geometry like this without messing with the screw modifier
Yep, this.
i just love your tutorials.. i cannot wait to start it
I know its been 3 years, but how'd it go? :)
Love this tutorial. I was making lightbulbs in blender and the way they generated ambient light was terrible before this. Thankyou Blender Guru for the upload!
man, i just started blender following your tutorials and its a realy nice and easy way to get into this beautiful software. thank you.
13:30 I kind of like this small little storys. It gives me time to recreate what is shown in this video while giving me something interesting to hear.
EXCELLENT TUTORIAL. I downloaded blender a week ago. I can't stop because of your tuts. . It more addictive then anything else. I just want to build 3d objects! I know how much knowledge is there and how little i know now. I am amazed that we are able to create such things. I spent 3 days on bumps...so far i know your only licked the topic. There is much more to understand and to do it in PS. Thank You. Your tutorials motivate me very much. In fact imho you are one of the best teachers in yt.
Awesome tutorial, cant believe anyone would thumbs down this video, guess you cannot please everyone even if you help them for free. Thanx for the videos
I looked for days to make something like this! finally i found it! it came right on time and i can continue my project :D
Thnx For Teaching like a pro! as a new artist,it helps me out!
You can use the Addon BoltFactory for the thread. Import a srew and delete all you did not need, like the head.
The glass tube mount is called a "glass fuse enclosure" where the wires travel through for support, I imagine it's made of glass because any other material would upset the function of the bulb as it would react, the hole in the glass would be for mass production purposes such as where it was held during its make.
Great tutorial, I used the boolean modifier to cut the hole from a cylinder it was fast and easy. Thanks again, man.
The two looped pieces are insulated support for the Filament. Keeps them from breaking apart under voltages.
Not sure if this is already in the comments but I will mention just in case. The two thick wires are for the electric current, it's why they connect to either end of the filament. Because these wires are primary structure and current load they need to be a little more robust. The thin wires are to help stabilize the filament so it doesn't bounce around as much. You will notice that those thin wires embedded in the glass don't connect to anything. It's thin for three reasons, prevent stress on the glass from different co efficient of expansion between metal and glass, cost of materials and manufacturing, and a thin wire will pull less heat/ energy from the filament making it more efficient.
The little wires in the middle are there to support the filament because when it heats up when current is flowing through it the filament loses structural strength and without the supports would break very quickly.
if you cant see your image at 3:55 make sure that you're also in orthogonal view (numpad5)
i was stuck on this for a while, thanks! :D
thank you for the shortcuts pdf, Andrew. I've been using Modo and totally forgot what to do in Blender so it helps me
Thanks Andrew I really appreciate your Tutorials and the fact that you don't make me wait for the next part is always major plus :)
I love your tutorials! And you are a very good teacher, thank you for your efforts.
Excellent tutorial bro. I just recently came back to the 3D world and this was an excellent exercise to get familiar once again with Blender and the tools it has.
The high melting point of the filament makes it glow for long time. The glass there is for insulation, so the "right" filament is glowing and not the others
You really nailed the pacing. Great work!
The bit in the center of the light bulb serves two purposes; firstly, it _is_ a support structure for the filament, and secondarily, but even more importantly, is the reason it's hollow; incandescent light bulbs operate under an inert atmosphere to allow the the filament (usually tungsten) to glow for as long as possible without degrading too quickly. A pipette-like tube of glass is attached to the bulb before final assembly, which is used to evacuate any air inside the bulb itself, and then re-pressurize the bulb to ambient pressure with whatever inert gas they use (I'm not sure which, though probably Nitrogen or Argon). The tube is melted and sealed as soon as it's re-pressurized.
Thank you so much for all of these amazing tutorials, for free! It is just so much value.
You are helping a lot of people with their passions, careers, or just to have a nice skill to show to friends :)
I really like this long tutorials. The are entertaining and very helpful.;)
Hey Andrew another way to do the hole in the middle of that "thing" is to select each face and inset both of them and then bridge edge loops should be the same result
If you want to avoid pinching at the poles of a UV sphere, I would recommend using a cube. Apply a subdivision surface modifier with 3 subdivisions. With the modifier applied, enter edit mode, select everything and use the 'to sphere' command on alt+shift+S and set the value to one. That way, the sphere has eight three-edge poles, which do not cause surface artifacts when subdividing further, rather than two 32-edged ones, which do.
Yay I was waiting for this for such a long time!! I finished the beginner tutorials and I was lost on how to continue. Finally! Thank you!
I believe the hollow glass structure inside the bulb is for creating a vacuum inside the bulb, which is necessary to stop the filament burning out.
first of all, Thankyou very much for providing such great tutorials. I just started a week ago and i rendered my first image by referring this tutorial. Its not as good but still good. Love from INDIA....
Thumb up Andrew. Thanks for another FREE tutorial.
I think the screw type sockets are called "edison", and the reason the glass thing is hollow (in the center glass bit that holds the filament holder) is so they have an easy job filling the lightbulb with gas before sealing it, watching how do they do it helps a lot ;)
Anyone struggling with the screw bottom can add it really fast using the built-in addon "Add Mesh: BoltFactory". Add a bolt and set the head values to 0. Screw bottom done! Tweak the settings to get the screw you are looking for and then scale it.
I swear, there's always a different thing you use to drink from in all of your tutorials
The two inner wires are just to support the filament, one outside wire goes to the base (screw) the other goes to the very bottom for an electrical contact.
the wires at the center ar for holding the spring. the outers ones apart from holding the spring too, the also send current to the spring.
love your videos and your work at blender.. saw your blender conference talk and was very happy to saw it! Looking forward to your future tutorials.. wish you would do one about animations or VFX.. or a car crash
Blender guru, I love you, totally no homo though.... just in a bromance kind of way nomsayin'. Cause your tutorials are amazing. To anyone thinking of purchasing any of their tutorials, they are top notch fyi.
Hi! if you don't modify the sphere you can hit F6 and will pop-up a window with the properties of the sphere. This can be use for every thing you do, like bevel, extrude etc...
You can use the "BoltFactory" plugin; it allows you to quickly generate nuts and bolts; then you just manually remove the head and you are left with the screw end...
Settings would be something like:
TYPE: BOLT
HEAD: COUNTER SINK
HEAD DIA: 5.50
SHANK LENGTH: 0
SHANK DIA: 3.0
THREAD LENGTH: 1.14
MAJOR DIA: 3.00
MINOR DIA: 2.50
PITCH: 0.68
CREST PERCENT: 33
ROOT PERCENT: 36
Of course, it needs a bit of refining, but altogether it takes about 10 mins.
(The plugin needs to be enabled in User preferences, then the bolt can be inserted in object mode).
I really appreciate all your tuts..Thanks Once again.
Iam learning everything from ur tutorial about Blender. Thank you.
I think the thicker arms on the side are simply to hold the filament, and the thinner wires with loopy heads are supposed to stop the filament from vibrating. When the filament is broken, and you barely touch the light bulb, you see the filament waving around out of control. I think the thinner arms are supposed to dampen the vibration. But it might not be true at all :P
The internal glass structure with the monolith-like circle hole in it... You say it would have been hard to do with a cylinder, but I wonder if the "To Sphere" tool (Ctrl-Shift-S) could have been used with a subdivided square face of the cylinder to create a circular face, which then could have been extruded in like you did, or bridged over in another fashion. Just a thought, not a criticism - because your result was fantastic as is! Thanks for another great video.
I hate how i can model anything but the material and lighting i can never nail.
For me it's the other way around :D
For me it is literally vice versa. I can't model crap but I can make any kind of material for some reason. ayy.... Wanna start a company together? haha
Plester I've watched the PBR tutorials from price to cgmasters.Still cant replicate.Maybe its the paid programs idk.But hey.I aint gonna stop trying lol
Scott Summers I can't do either with a crap....
I am exactly the same way.
great to watch.
I read a rumour that curves is getting a major overhaul. If this is true I cant wait.
After using Maya, its really hard to use Blenders curves.
I really miss Maya's Snap to Curve tool.
I was thinking aroudhow in the name of christ would I be able to make the lightbulb. And guess what, of course I couldn't and before I tampered blender to make it, I navigated youtube and found out this tutorial.......Hats Off to you Andrew....
P.S. Nice to share the short "Lightbulb epic" story Andrew, of how you saved your time!!!!!!
Great Tutorial! Maybe you can use the boltfactory addon to create this screw thing of the lightbulb.
Technical Stuff: the base cap covers the gas inlet tube (argon gas which prevents the filament from oxidizing and burning through in an oxygen environment) which opens inside the bulb, that little hole you see there. The filament is made of tungsten which will glow warm white in in a zero oxygen enclosure. The black disc under the aluminium houses two lead covered contacts that lead up to the filament feelers allowing electrical current to flow through the resistive tungsten and heating it to near melting point..
I love how u talk about ur story with the bulb in a tutorial haha!
The filament is held in glass because it can take the extreme heat, it is insulating the wires and it will extend or contract with the glass of the bulb. It is also used to fill the bulb with an inert gas that won't oxidise the tungsten wire and burn it. The hole in the middle is probably a residue from the manufacturing with no real purpose.
This was awesome
This series is awesome will you please, please, please create a series of blender which includes begininner in aimation and compositing it in after effects
Very good tutorial. Thanks! FYI worked great on blender version 2.79
awesome as always! very enjoyable to watch and clear explanations, you rock sir!
thank you so much. this has been so helpful!
good tutorials i like it how you explain it. i learn a lot from your tutorial
Really nice tutorial.. I wonder if there should be solidify.modifier at glass, after all most of the bulb volume is gas.
Thank you i learned a lot of new things in this part as expected,you are awesome
FYI: There is a reason the filament mount is hollow with a tube in it. It's via this tube the gas is evacuated from the bulb (and inert gasses added) during manufacturing. What is more the little hole is left over from the manufacturing process.
Woah, just started something where I'll need to model a lot of light bulbs. Guess this saves me from digging around on the internet.
I finally got a powerful machine. I'm still stuck with the cube though. This year I will learn some Blender. Someday, this year! =)
Great tutorial by the way!
Can you make a video for all modifiers basic use that would be so helpful? Thanks if you do!
dude i love your work please keep it up
Note : Actual filament is double coiled (coil made out of coil for increasing light intensity`Bill Hammock)💡💡💡
12:53 close your eyes and thank me later.
omg
xD
Why
Why i need to close my eyes
nice
Hey, great video. Btw there is a "How it's made" on RUclips about bulbs, it explains all the bits are for. Also if you were trying to be super accurate seeing exactly how its made is a good way to get the right shapes, but that's defiantly not required for this project.
I'm not entirely sure about the smaller wires in terms of functionality but I know that for any electrical circuit to operate there needs to be a current travelling to "ground", so there's an incoming current, of electricity, but for the current to actually do anything there needs to be an escape, the "ground", without the escape the light bulb won't turn on.
Ive tried many tutorials but you are by far the best you are more fun to listen to and more energetic the others sound very bland and boring
very very helpful tutorials. never ever stop and plz if possible make a video for total game logic thing . I never found an videos for that
Hey andrew do you play criket.