Regarding the necessity for barrel break in, do you have any data showing a side by side test of a barrel subjected to a break in process vs a barrel that has not? The results should include tendency to foul, accuracy, and barrel life. I’ve heard a lot of arguments for and against barrel break in, but never any real world testing to prove that barrel break in makes a difference. As a mechanical engineer, I understand the micro surface roughness of the barrel bore after it has been machined and that a smooth barrel is the objective for an accurate barrel. When shooting, the copper is deposited into the micro “valleys” and fill the bore surface even with the micro “peaks”. It is at this point you have a nice slick and smooth bore. Removing the copper, one just spent a lot of money to send down the bore and foul it to achieve a perfectly smooth bore, is counterproductive in my opinion. I believe if there was some real world data proving the benefits of barrel break in, then a lot of us who do not, could then be swayed to start doing it. Another great video and keep them coming as they are very much appreciated.
The biggest game changer for me wrt rifle cleaning was when I got a teslong borescope. WOW. Being able to see in clear detail what is going on inside the bore is so incredibly useful. It has made cleaning easier and has completely eliminated all frustrating uncertainties. If you are curious about the performance of cleaning product or procedure A vs cleaning product or procedure B there is no better answer than direct visual observation of the results. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing your rifle cleaning method. Like you said everyone seems to do it different but looking at your rifle I'd say your way is working really well.
Pretty good cleaning regime explanation, thanks Desert Dog. The only thing different I do is use bronze brushes to loosen carbon fouling. I find the nylon brush is not aggressive enough. How aggressive your cleaning is depends on the barrel and how its shooting. If it ain't broken it doesn't need fixing.
Hey DD, Great video, I discovered Boretech last fall and an very happy with it, no more ammonia smell. Glad to see someone else using it. I'll give Corrosion X a try. If you see this and don't mind answering a quick question, what is your opinion on "bore snakes" for use when hunting/camping? I usually carry one in my day pack just in case I get into moisture or dust storms. Anyhow, keep up the good work. Have a great weekend and be safe!
Just bought a Browning T-Bolt in 17 HMR. Forget about a bore guide for that cartridge. I've had many custom barrels from the major makers. The manufacturers - like Shilen, Douglas, McMillan, Krieger etc. - all have different break-in instructions. Krieger, for example, tells you just shoot the damn thing. So does Gale McMillan, if I'm not mistaken. And so do gunsmiths like RUclips's "Gunblue490." After dozens of mostly bolt action rifles, I've never seen a difference between the tedious "fire-a-shot, then clean; then every 3-shots etc. etc ad nauseum method AND just shooting the damn thing, then cleaning every 20 shots or so. I think it's mostly superstition, because even the barrel makers disagree over barrels with the same metallurgy. So unless you want to spend your life cleaning as opposed to shooting, I'd pass on the arduous break-ins. And who needs umpteen chemicals? Copper solvent, bronze brush (replaced after every session), patches, bore guide, one piece quality cleaning rod, along with finishing lube/cleaner (like G96) is all that's necessary.
You are researching old internet stuff from the "Snipershide" days; even from the late Gale McMillan comment (Gale scrubbed his bore every 10 rounds). Krieger does indeed now recommend barrel break-in; as do all barrel manufactures. Since Gale's days, there have been several scientific studies done. We now know that barrel break in is necessary to control copper while imperfections in the throat (reamer marks) are laid down. This copper pulled off the jacket by throat imperfections contaminates the entire bore during initial use. You are basically polishing the throat/leade, without letting copper build. Having shot Barnes bullets very extensively over the last 17 years, I can attest to how a properly broke-in barrel makes for an easy to clean barrel throughout its lifespan. I use my borescope during the process, and on a good custom barrel, It's usually good within 20-30 rounds (remove copper after every shot for 1st 10 rounds, then every second shot for another 10-20). Production rifles like a budget Remington will require a great deal of effort to polish both the throat and bore.
Another great video. Been using bore tech and corrosionX products for quite sometime. Absolutely excellent products. Bore Tech copper and carbon remover will clean up your barrels with just patches..
@@adamshaw8214 yes, unfortunately it took the finish off my Sako 85 wood stock where it had dripped out of the receiver area…. My Winchester Model 70 wood finish is immune to it though…. They are hunting rifles so I am more interested in getting the barrel clean and keeping them accurate.
Dang!!!! That is a beautiful rifle. Hoppes#9 for cleaning and Corrosion lub can't be beat. I would use molly grease on bolt lugs. I agree with your cleaning method. I would put a towel over your but stock . No bore solvent on wood or plastic. Furniture wax ok on wood finish.
Once you stop using Hoppes and use Boretecb or Montana Extreme, you will never go back. Unlike Hoppes, Boretech products are non-toxic, odorless, won't ruin stocks or bores, and works WAY better. Very few people use Hoppes anymore. I also don't recommend wax on wood stocks...it makes it very difficult to make spot-repairs and touch ups, and promotes gunk in checkering.
Another excellent video. Could you tell me what brand name the small action rod you use is? I've been using a curved pair of forceps. It's OK but I think the rod you use is a better method. Thanks. Greetings from god's country. The Upper Peninsula of Michigan
@@desertdogoutdoors1113 could you explain why you dislike a Bore Snake so much? I think of it as “some cleaning after every range trip”. Sort of like a lite version of your quick cleaning. IOW better than nothing.
I agree the MTM rifle cradle Vice that is what I use with a rubber coated Dewy cleaning rod. I wanted to ask you if you ever used IMR 4955 Enduron power in your 300H&H I found a article by Lane Simpson he was getting good accuracy and velocity out of it I found some and wanted to try it
I haven't tried that powder yet, but it's really close to H4831. I am currently getting sub half-MOA groups with H4831sc and over 3000fps with 175s without compressing the load. Looks like a good powder though If you can use it without compressing.
Thank you very much for a most informative and educational tutorial video! I have one question and that is what is your overall opinion of the Otis cleaning system? Thank you in advance!
Those kits are fine to take into the field in case your rifle gets exposed to rain/snow/mud and you want to clear your barrel in the field. I don't consider those kits really cleaning kits though. I bring a bore-snake in my hunting pack for the same reason. On a desert mule deer hunt last year, I was in a HUGE dust storm and had to clear my barrel out several times.
Hi DD, this is an older video...but do you use Corrosion-X on the outside bluing as well, likely with a few drops on flannel cloth? Also, when inside the bore, does it need to be removed before firing with a dry patch, I guess no? I switched to the Eliminator per your recommendation, and wow what a treat for my rifles and my time cleaning with them! Keep them coming, no BS with your content!
Yes, I coat the outside of the rifle with a light layer of Corrosion X. Before I shoot the gun (after taking the gun out of storage), I do run a dry patch down the barrel.
Another fantastic video! Thank you DD for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. One question, are you using the Bore Tech Proof Positive Patch Jag? Greetings
I recently acquired a pre WW2 Mauser Oberndorf sporting rifle. it's very expensive and I do not plan on firing the rifle and only want to keep it preserved. It has extensive engraving etc. The bore is at least a good 90 percent bore. I am still getting copper residue fouling on oiled patches. And we all know copper fouling left over the will react with the steel and pit the bore. How do you beat recommend attacking this copper fouling to get it 💯 percent removed. I'm gonna try your kroil idea but I'm not going to go scrubbing away with any kind of bristle brush. Many thanks.
Regarding the necessity for barrel break in, do you have any data showing a side by side test of a barrel subjected to a break in process vs a barrel that has not? The results should include tendency to foul, accuracy, and barrel life.
I’ve heard a lot of arguments for and against barrel break in, but never any real world testing to prove that barrel break in makes a difference.
As a mechanical engineer, I understand the micro surface roughness of the barrel bore after it has been machined and that a smooth barrel is the objective for an accurate barrel. When shooting, the copper is deposited into the micro “valleys” and fill the bore surface even with the micro “peaks”. It is at this point you have a nice slick and smooth bore. Removing the copper, one just spent a lot of money to send down the bore and foul it to achieve a perfectly smooth bore, is counterproductive in my opinion.
I believe if there was some real world data proving the benefits of barrel break in, then a lot of us who do not, could then be swayed to start doing it.
Another great video and keep them coming as they are very much appreciated.
That pre-64 winchester model 70 is simply eye candy!
Thank you. My pre-64s still come out of the safe first when it's time to put meat in the freezer.
Same. My ‘53 model 70 .270 is my primary deer rifle. I take care of it, and it still looks almost new.
The biggest game changer for me wrt rifle cleaning was when I got a teslong borescope. WOW. Being able to see in clear detail what is going on inside the bore is so incredibly useful. It has made cleaning easier and has completely eliminated all frustrating uncertainties. If you are curious about the performance of cleaning product or procedure A vs cleaning product or procedure B there is no better answer than direct visual observation of the results.
Cheers!
Most thorough and comprehensive rifle cleaning demonstration!
As always, a GREAT video. I also enjoy when you bring out the pre-64’s!
Excellent video explaining the 3 different ways of cleaning 👍
Another informative video! Yep, I see a new DD video, I click the thumbs up and then start watching.
Thanks for sharing your rifle cleaning method. Like you said everyone seems to do it different but looking at your rifle I'd say your way is working really well.
Excellent step by step, thanks!
Thanks DD, great way to keepum running like new.
Pretty good cleaning regime explanation, thanks Desert Dog. The only thing different I do is use bronze brushes to loosen carbon fouling. I find the nylon brush is not aggressive enough. How aggressive your cleaning is depends on the barrel and how its shooting. If it ain't broken it doesn't need fixing.
Try the Bore Tech Proof-Positive Nylon brushes; they will change your mind. I think they are more aggressive than most bronze brushes!
Love your videos, Desert Dog. I'd sure be interested in knowing how, and how often you clean your nice hunting rifle triggers. Thanks!
I just knew it..Sooner or later ol' G. David was going to take a hit..No one is safe from the Desert Dog..😂😂
Hey DD, Great video, I discovered Boretech last fall and an very happy with it, no more ammonia smell. Glad to see someone else using it. I'll give Corrosion X a try. If you see this and don't mind answering a quick question, what is your opinion on "bore snakes" for use when hunting/camping? I usually carry one in my day pack just in case I get into moisture or dust storms. Anyhow, keep up the good work. Have a great weekend and be safe!
I carry a bore snake in my pack for exactly the same reason. I don't use them to clean, just as an emergency measure while out in the field.
This video is important... keep your guns clean folks !
Excellent video. Thank you for posting.
Just bought a Browning T-Bolt in 17 HMR. Forget about a bore guide for that cartridge. I've had many custom barrels from the major makers. The manufacturers - like Shilen, Douglas, McMillan, Krieger etc. - all have different break-in instructions. Krieger, for example, tells you just shoot the damn thing. So does Gale McMillan, if I'm not mistaken. And so do gunsmiths like RUclips's "Gunblue490." After dozens of mostly bolt action rifles, I've never seen a difference between the tedious "fire-a-shot, then clean; then every 3-shots etc. etc ad nauseum method AND just shooting the damn thing, then cleaning every 20 shots or so. I think it's mostly superstition, because even the barrel makers disagree over barrels with the same metallurgy. So unless you want to spend your life cleaning as opposed to shooting, I'd pass on the arduous break-ins. And who needs umpteen chemicals? Copper solvent, bronze brush (replaced after every session), patches, bore guide, one piece quality cleaning rod, along with finishing lube/cleaner (like G96) is all that's necessary.
You are researching old internet stuff from the "Snipershide" days; even from the late Gale McMillan comment (Gale scrubbed his bore every 10 rounds). Krieger does indeed now recommend barrel break-in; as do all barrel manufactures. Since Gale's days, there have been several scientific studies done. We now know that barrel break in is necessary to control copper while imperfections in the throat (reamer marks) are laid down. This copper pulled off the jacket by throat imperfections contaminates the entire bore during initial use. You are basically polishing the throat/leade, without letting copper build. Having shot Barnes bullets very extensively over the last 17 years, I can attest to how a properly broke-in barrel makes for an easy to clean barrel throughout its lifespan. I use my borescope during the process, and on a good custom barrel, It's usually good within 20-30 rounds (remove copper after every shot for 1st 10 rounds, then every second shot for another 10-20). Production rifles like a budget Remington will require a great deal of effort to polish both the throat and bore.
Thank you for a very useful video.
Another great video. Been using bore tech and corrosionX products for quite sometime. Absolutely excellent products. Bore Tech copper and carbon remover will clean up your barrels with just patches..
Yep. the only reason I brush is because the Barnes bullets usually demand a little scrubbing to get down to bare metal.
It took the finish off one of my rifles. Don't know how it got on the outside of the barrel.
@@adamshaw8214 yes, unfortunately it took the finish off my Sako 85 wood stock where it had dripped out of the receiver area…. My Winchester Model 70 wood finish is immune to it though…. They are hunting rifles so I am more interested in getting the barrel clean and keeping them accurate.
@@williamfeldner9356 yeah it got the finish at the end of my varrel in several spots within the last 6 inches towards the muzzle.
@adamshaw8214 which product? Bore tech or corrosiinX?
Dang!!!! That is a beautiful rifle. Hoppes#9 for cleaning and Corrosion lub can't be beat. I would use molly grease on bolt lugs.
I agree with your cleaning method. I would put a towel over your but stock . No bore solvent on wood or plastic. Furniture wax ok on wood finish.
Once you stop using Hoppes and use Boretecb or Montana Extreme, you will never go back. Unlike Hoppes, Boretech products are non-toxic, odorless, won't ruin stocks or bores, and works WAY better. Very few people use Hoppes anymore. I also don't recommend wax on wood stocks...it makes it very difficult to make spot-repairs and touch ups, and promotes gunk in checkering.
You could not have picked a better gun for the video 👍
Thank you so match for your videos!
Bore tech is the only copper remover I use. Most others have harsh chemicals that can destroy a bore if left to sit for too long.
And it doesn't have toxic fumes like other copper removers.
Another excellent video. Could you tell me what brand name the small action rod you use is? I've been using a curved pair of forceps. It's OK but I think the rod you use is a better method. Thanks. Greetings from god's country. The Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Couple passes with a bore snake and your good to go. Maby deep clean with a cleaning rod,ect every 5 or so years.
noooo thank you!
@@desertdogoutdoors1113 could you explain why you dislike a Bore Snake so much? I think of it as “some cleaning after every range trip”. Sort of like a lite version of your quick cleaning. IOW better than nothing.
Great, great, great video as allways!!! 👌👍😃
I agree the MTM rifle cradle Vice that is what I use with a rubber coated Dewy cleaning rod. I wanted to ask you if you ever used IMR 4955 Enduron power in your 300H&H I found a article by Lane Simpson he was getting good accuracy and velocity out of it I found some and wanted to try it
I haven't tried that powder yet, but it's really close to H4831. I am currently getting sub half-MOA groups with H4831sc and over 3000fps with 175s without compressing the load. Looks like a good powder though If you can use it without compressing.
Are bore guides universal (for caliber) or rifle model specific? Also, what are your thoughts on Ballistol as a day to day gun oil?
Thank you very much for a most informative and educational tutorial video! I have one question and that is what is your overall opinion of the Otis cleaning system? Thank you in advance!
Those kits are fine to take into the field in case your rifle gets exposed to rain/snow/mud and you want to clear your barrel in the field. I don't consider those kits really cleaning kits though. I bring a bore-snake in my hunting pack for the same reason. On a desert mule deer hunt last year, I was in a HUGE dust storm and had to clear my barrel out several times.
Nice video.
What do you thing about Ballistol?
Been waiting on this video for a while now.
Lots of requests for this.
Hi DD, this is an older video...but do you use Corrosion-X on the outside bluing as well, likely with a few drops on flannel cloth? Also, when inside the bore, does it need to be removed before firing with a dry patch, I guess no? I switched to the Eliminator per your recommendation, and wow what a treat for my rifles and my time cleaning with them! Keep them coming, no BS with your content!
Yes, I coat the outside of the rifle with a light layer of Corrosion X. Before I shoot the gun (after taking the gun out of storage), I do run a dry patch down the barrel.
Awesome
Thank you.
Hi from Canada. Is a 338 a good hunting round. Thanks.
Yes. Elk, moose, and bears dread the ol' 338 Win Mag.
This is a great video
Another fantastic video! Thank you DD for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. One question, are you using the Bore Tech Proof Positive Patch Jag? Greetings
Yes. That is my preferred jag. I also LOVE their brushes; clean like bronze, with all the benefits of nylon.
What called rifle? Link pls
I recently acquired a pre WW2 Mauser Oberndorf sporting rifle. it's very expensive and I do not plan on firing the rifle and only want to keep it preserved. It has extensive engraving etc. The bore is at least a good 90 percent bore. I am still getting copper residue fouling on oiled patches. And we all know copper fouling left over the will react with the steel and pit the bore. How do you beat recommend attacking this copper fouling to get it 💯 percent removed. I'm gonna try your kroil idea but I'm not going to go scrubbing away with any kind of bristle brush.
Many thanks.
Boretech Eliminator. Make sure you don't use Bronze or brass hardware to clean or you will get false positives for copper.
Says he expects the most dislikes on this video.
Facts, zero dislikes.
Nice to be wrong every now and then, right DD?
A Good Film. Which Scope is on your Gun?
Both rifles in this video have Leupold Vx6 scopes.
Thank you for the fast Anser, they are looking very short.
You need to add a air compressor into your cleaning program.
Nice video
Good evening
Good Afternoon (PST)
Recomand me a rifle for dangerous game in 300 h&h magnum pls
I would never hunt dangerous game with a 30 caliber, and neither should you
@@desertdogoutdoors1113 I don't know recomand me a good rifle for dangerous game all caliber
@@westernhunter7351 Winchester Model 70 in 375 or 416.
@@desertdogoutdoors1113 Model 70 safari ?
yes
I just clean the bolt !
Why I don't recommend most used rifles.
@@desertdogoutdoors1113 🤣