No place I know of sells new internal parts for a controller like this. You can find used controllers on sources like eBay, but you'll have to buy the whole controller. Personally, I would take the good clip to my local hardware store and ask for help. They may have metal strips in copper, bronze or steel that you could make your own replacement. IDK but maybe there are even little metal spacers or something that you could cut to size and drill the hole. I have bought copper metal strips before on eBay like this: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS1&_nkw=copper+metal+strip&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=copper+metal+strip If your local store is still open I would go there to avoid shipping delays and see the piece in person. If you can't find the same thickness you may need to make 2 new ones. If they were a little thicker I do not think that's a problem. Your chance to get creative I guess? Any repair shop; car, motorcycle, appliance may help. Know any plumbers? They use copper all the time. Wishing you good luck and thanks for watching my channel. I hope you'll have time to let us know how you resolve it. I'll pin your question to the top and maybe another viewer has a better suggestion. Take Care.
Get a small copper sheet right thickness from jewelry supply stores or Etsy. Cut a piece out, bend it, drill it, and voila! You have a replacement. No brainer.
Andy you are a godsend! Best video ever on the Carbon Pile Foot Pedal restoration. I bought a Singer 301 and this Foot Pedal beast is harder to figure out than the whole machine. Now I can give it a detailed clean up and restoration. So glad you made these videos. They are a gift to humanity, thank you!!
Hi Andy! I love old singers and love working on them. I had an old friend who was a singer Repairman. He recently passed. Thank you for taking the time to teach me. I wish you lived close by!
thanks so much here from Denmark... I now miraculously fixed my moms old Singer Featherweight... something that not even a professional electrician could... he had to give up.....so you can help a housewife in Denmark fix things..... not bad, huh... thanks so much for the videos.
velkommen og pænt gjort! Thank you for commenting. Maybe you should have a part-time business in foot pedal repair? I am happy to hear people in Denmark are watching my channel. Take Care.
Thank you for clarifying on that white washer! I just bought a refurbished 403a and the foot pedal doesn’t feel right. Your videos on this restoration is invaluable, thanks!
My 401 foot pedal is constructed a little differently so I'm glad I took a picture first like you suggested. I had to bend one of the copper tabs ever so slightly so it would make contact when fully depressed and now she can sew at full speed again. Thanks for such a thorough video series!
Nicely done, Alice. I'm glad you checked it out and were able to get it going again. Plus, now you know more about how it works so if you have an issue you have a better idea of what could need work on it. Last year I emailed a fellow who restores 221 featherweights and sells them on eBay and other places. I noticed he had always installed a new electronic foot pedal on every one that he listed. I offered to buy the old button style pedals from him and he said "Oh, they are stupid old pedals. I just toss them out when I get a machine." Too sad for words. You are welcome for the series and I'm glad it helped. Take Care.
Andy, thank you for the video of adjusting the pedal on the singer machine. I took everything apart just like you did even those little discs inside the the the battery type thing …..everything but I think in the end it was the button on the pedal that had or needed a little bit of lubrication, and that solved it for me, but in any case, your videos are very informative and very helpful and I have subscribed to your RUclips channel for future videos on how to with my singer 338.
Thank you SO much, this series has be really useful. These things are so brilliantly made. And I love that the porcelain part inside mine is blue glazed! Thanks again.
10:20 - One thing I do not understand, Andy, is where the gap is supposed to be? I can buy a Feeler Gauge for precise measuring or estimate it. But is that gap all the way in the back, or where the 'rocking' hardware connects to the ceramic housing up front? Mystery. That is the hardest part of this restoration. I finished all my cleaning today and got it all back together and it is beautiful. Just that pesky gap thingie left. Some tips for viewers: I marked the electrical wires before removing. Red paint, blue paint on each wire sleeve, on screws, on housing. Now no guesswork in reassembling. I use acrylic paints. I do this for all things, and also write with felt pen. Rubber foot pads can be shined up with Carnauba wax but don't use Vaseline which will corrode the rubber. I cleaned up the carbon discs by rubbing on an alcohol soaked paper towel, phew! So much work. On stubborn dirt, very light rub on fine emery board which scraped off dirt fast. Emery board must be very fine like a polisher, not sander. These discs are soft like pencil lead. I took photos of assembly before removing, so an easy reference if you get stuck, and you will! Photos are priceless.
Thanks for the great videos Andy. I just refurbished a Singer 328J and needed help with the pedal adjustment. I will soon build a custom box/case for it.
I so appreciate the detail you provide and your very clear instructions. Still waiting on you to find a Singer Featherweight 221 so you can do a video on opening the motor. Your videos are the best!
Hey, thank yo very much. Yes, someday I might be able to find a 221 at a price I can justify. I have all the reords I need for a restoration, just need the machine. Thanks for watching :)
Great series Andy, I'm learning so much from you! Many thanks. I think silicone would be better preservative on the rubber feet, oil of any kind will swell and eventually deteriorate the rubber.
Thank you for the tip! When I asked the retired Singer fellas about wiping the feet with oil like they did they felt a small amount was ok and don't soak them in oil. We have to remember that was prior to about 1975. I like your point a lot. I'll pin your comment to the top for others to see. Thanks for taking the time to share on my channel.
Hi Andy, my 401g is running sweetly thanks to you. My button pedal works but it smells a bit line disinfectant I think some UK models have a suppression capacitor which might have gone bad anyway heres the real reason for dropping by today. I had the pedal plugged in pluhhed in after doing a tension check and checking the pedal operation, after about 5 min the machine starts to operate slowly with my foot know where near it! I've not seen you mention this before and I've enjoyed many hours learning from you. If the carbon stack adjustment is too loose we see the button has to be depressed further before anything happens so I'm guessing mine is to tight and a little bit of heat from use is expanding something somewhere causing the sewing ghost. Anyway I'm going to bite the bullet today and do a restoration Andy style.
Good news about your 401G. Nicely done. If you do find a radio suppressor capacitor you can simply remove it. Your guess is right on target! I have mentioned in some videos that after adjusting the pedal for button clearance to run the machine to warm up the pedal then let everything sit without running but left plugged into the wall outlet. If the adjustment was too tight a small amount of electricity will enter the carbon stacks. Not enough to run the motor by any means, but enough to start heating the carbons. Even fires have been known to happen when pedals are out of adjustment. The Singer manuals say to unplug from the outlet when not in use. You can readjust the clearance and let the pedal sit plugged in for 5 or 10 minutes and see if it stays at room temperature and does not get warm/hot. Then you are good. A carbon stack runs the hottest at low speeds. Electricity coming in from the outlet, but only a small amount is passed on to the motor. Slow sewists will especially notice this. Thanks for watching my channel, Tony. I enjoy your comments.
Thanks Andy, I knew about not leaving it plugged in when not In use, I'm really careful about that. Didn't get around to the rebuild to day but did make a cover for the 401. Really enjoying Terrible too.
Andy, I am in process of doing a thorough cleaning of my foot pedal for my newly acquired Singer 201-2. The foot pedal is mounted in the table and used as a knee lever. All is good until reassembly of the mechanism to the long screw that goes through the spring and porcelain carbon disk holder. My mechanism is very different from yours, which simply has the tabs to lock it into place. Mine is a much bigger mechanism with a spring on each side. I see no way to attach this mechanism to the bottom plate. There are holes in the bottom of the steel mechanism that line up with holes in the plate, however there were no screws to attach it. Also mine has no retaining brass piece that fits on to the long screw. I’m sure you have run into this different configuration while doing repairs. Could you either do a video on this type or better yet - advise me on how to proceed with this? Thank you kindly! Your videos are perfect for a total beginner (when all the parts are the same). 😁
"""" I’m sure you have run into this different configuration while doing repairs"""" I've never even seen a 201 in person. 👀 If you email to Alan at andymanuals53@gmail.com and request a copy of the original 201 Service Manual he will send you a free copy in PDF format by return email. I've already notified him to expect your request and charge it to my account. That's all I have for you, Henry. Good Luck.
Hi Andy, I did the motor speed restore and also this foot pedal one. I only had a couple carbon disks with shorted edge. When I tighten screw the pedal gets warm when idle. When I adjust to solve my control of speed is diminished. Too hard to control speed with foot, definitely works better in table with knee controller. If I buy an electronic foot how do I know it’s compatible? Is seeing the 2 prong plug enough? Thanks!
You have choices with an electronic pedal of buying one without any cords (getting harder to find) and buying one already wired for your model of machine. If you find one without cords you can usually transfer your vintage cords into the new pedal. I've done that a dozen times. If you buy one with cords for your model you just plug it in and use it. Sometimes you can swap the new cord out for your vintage cord if you are trying to match colors or pin spacing. If your pedal now has a singe two-prong cord to a two-prong terminal on the machine, then yes a pedal with a two-prong cord LIKE YOUR OLD CORD should work. The new pedal should have a rating of about 1 AMP, which most of them do. I have never found a new electronic pedal that could work in a vintage knee lever bracket holder.
I don't think that is needed. I have seen all metal pedals with the paint worn badly that worked OK. Personally, if it was not very hard I would spray paint it and install or replace rubber bumpers on the bottom but it is your choice. ruclips.net/video/gcIB6VJ56Yk/видео.html ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKDdUTvSEA06K6S9Hkq60P-
Oh, there are many types of Singer motors. Can you tell me what model of Singer the motor is on? If the motor used grease wicks then that is why it is running hot. Old grease gets hard and won't melt into the wick so the wick is dry and the bushing/bearing is probably overheating. Give me the Singer machine model number please and we'll get you the info you need.
@@andytubesewing1953 It is a gorgeous 1941 singer 201-2... and my most precious possession! I do believe it takes wicks but not sure what kind or where to get them. Thank you so much Andy!
@@joluongo552 Congratulations, Jo. I've never worked on that model, but plenty of people have. This is kind of the go-to instructions for working on your motor vssmb.blogspot.com/2012/01/complete-how-to-re-wire-potted-motor.html I bought wicks for my featherweight here on this page www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3752 but nowadays there are kits for sale like this www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2386202.m570.l1313&_nkw=RE-WIRING+MOTOR+KIT+for+Singer+15-91+and+201-2+and+other+Sewing+Machines&_sacat=0 or just the wicks can be bought www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2386202.m570.l1313&_nkw=Singer+201-2+and+15-91+Potted+Motor+Wicks+%284%29&_sacat=0 and there are even more blogs and videos about it. This playlist of mine has 5 videos about restoring a featherweight motor ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp I had a few viewers tell me the 201-2 and 15-91 motors were easier to work on as they are a little bigger and the wicks had better access. Best of luck to you, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Wow you are the best Andy! Thanks ever so much! I love the kits on e-bay you linked me to and I am going to order one right this very minute! I'll be looking at your other videos and hope to learn a lot more. Again...thanks!!!
@@joluongo552 I'm happy you will give it a try. I'm sure you can do it and imagine your satisfaction with your "new" motor running so well. Best of luck, and thanks for watching my channel. Oh, btw, I have some documents for your model, like parts lists, service manual that I have gathered over the years. If you want free copies just email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for the 201 documents and I'll send them along. They are all in PDF format and are copies of the original manuals the Singer repairment used at the stores.
I knew of 4 sellers of a carbon unit for the clamshell-style of the foot pedal. I found the carbon discs inside can be removed and used in this style of the pedal. The new discs are twice as thick so you need half as many. The problem is they all sold out during the COVID pandemic when everyone started sewing again. They are having trouble getting shipments and getting the part back in stock. I made a video about the replacement carbons and you can see it here to know what I'm talking about: ruclips.net/video/R4JuQ3o9dB0/видео.html In the description below the video, I put links to the 4 sellers of the part. You can also buy another old pedal but you take a chance it has bad carbon discs. Many folks now are just buying a new electronic-style pedal (no carbons) and changing out the old pedal while keeping the old cord onto the new electronic pedal.
Sorry Andy, I just saw the pinned comments at the start of video #1 of this series about asbestos. It's hard to say for sure, but you recommended care in handling this stuff and keeping it under control. So, you've already covered this topic.
No worries, no sorry. One year after I made this series I encountered an asbestos pad (for the first time) while working on the controller of a 99K machine. Here is the video of that and what I did about it: ruclips.net/video/gcIB6VJ56Yk/видео.html Thanks for watching and all your comments. We all learn from communicating.
I took my foot controller apart again, I think for about the tenth time, because I still couldn't get the machine to run slow. When I used parts from a donor pedal I used some of the carbons and the contactors in the foot controller I wanted to use. So when I took it apart I went over the parts very carefully and noticed that the flange parts of the donated contactors were thicker. So I put them back in and noticed that the contactors were pinned down into the pile and couldn't move and were tight. It didn't hum or get hot before but could not get it to run slow. So I bent the retainers up so the contactors were loose and low and behold the old girl ran perfect. I was beginning to worry that the screws holding the base to the top were going to wear out I've had it apart so many times. Another thing that happened was that I wasn't getting interference on my radio any more. Those contactors need to be able to move and not be tight in there. So, Andy, if you're out there thanks again for all the videos. I think I'm done!
Congratulations, Ralph. Your determination is impressive! You must feel justified doing all that detective work and getting a great result! Hope you can just have some good crafting time now. Take care.
Si, es una pena. Mis videos son vistos en más de 200 países y territorios por personas que hablan muchos idiomas diferentes. Aquellos que no entienden inglés simplemente cambian el idioma en el CC (subtítulos) de inglés a cualquier idioma que prefieran. Cualquiera en el planeta puede hacer eso. Aquí hay algunos videos sobre cómo hacerlo: ruclips.net/video/PuwejQav4-0/видео.html ruclips.net/video/jUSCUsCkQ8Y/видео.html Ah, y estoy de acuerdo contigo; mi video se ve bien. Gracias por el cumplido. 👍
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Where can you buy a new shorting clip to replace a broken one? any sources? marker 12:26 tia
No place I know of sells new internal parts for a controller like this. You can find used controllers on sources like eBay, but you'll have to buy the whole controller. Personally, I would take the good clip to my local hardware store and ask for help. They may have metal strips in copper, bronze or steel that you could make your own replacement. IDK but maybe there are even little metal spacers or something that you could cut to size and drill the hole. I have bought copper metal strips before on eBay like this: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS1&_nkw=copper+metal+strip&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=copper+metal+strip If your local store is still open I would go there to avoid shipping delays and see the piece in person. If you can't find the same thickness you may need to make 2 new ones. If they were a little thicker I do not think that's a problem. Your chance to get creative I guess? Any repair shop; car, motorcycle, appliance may help. Know any plumbers? They use copper all the time. Wishing you good luck and thanks for watching my channel. I hope you'll have time to let us know how you resolve it. I'll pin your question to the top and maybe another viewer has a better suggestion. Take Care.
Get a small copper sheet right thickness from jewelry supply stores or Etsy. Cut a piece out, bend it, drill it, and voila! You have a replacement. No brainer.
Andy you are a godsend! Best video ever on the Carbon Pile Foot Pedal restoration. I bought a Singer 301 and this Foot Pedal beast is harder to figure out than the whole machine. Now I can give it a detailed clean up and restoration. So glad you made these videos. They are a gift to humanity, thank you!!
I appreciate your comment and am glad the video will help you with your restoration.
Hi Andy! I love old singers and love working on them. I had an old friend who was a singer Repairman. He recently passed. Thank you for taking the time to teach me. I wish you lived close by!
You had a valuable friend. Thank you for watching my channel. You rule, Aunt Mimi. Take Care.
thanks so much here from Denmark... I now miraculously fixed my moms old Singer Featherweight... something that not even a professional electrician could... he had to give up.....so you can help a housewife in Denmark fix things..... not bad, huh... thanks so much for the videos.
velkommen og pænt gjort! Thank you for commenting. Maybe you should have a part-time business in foot pedal repair? I am happy to hear people in Denmark are watching my channel. Take Care.
Thank you for clarifying on that white washer! I just bought a refurbished 403a and the foot pedal doesn’t feel right. Your videos on this restoration is invaluable, thanks!
Model 403A is a fantastic machine. I'm happy for you. I appreciate you. Nice comment and good luck
My 401 foot pedal is constructed a little differently so I'm glad I took a picture first like you suggested. I had to bend one of the copper tabs ever so slightly so it would make contact when fully depressed and now she can sew at full speed again. Thanks for such a thorough video series!
Nicely done, Alice. I'm glad you checked it out and were able to get it going again. Plus, now you know more about how it works so if you have an issue you have a better idea of what could need work on it. Last year I emailed a fellow who restores 221 featherweights and sells them on eBay and other places. I noticed he had always installed a new electronic foot pedal on every one that he listed. I offered to buy the old button style pedals from him and he said "Oh, they are stupid old pedals. I just toss them out when I get a machine." Too sad for words. You are welcome for the series and I'm glad it helped. Take Care.
Andy, thank you for the video of adjusting the pedal on the singer machine. I took everything apart just like you did even those little discs inside the the the battery type thing …..everything but I think in the end it was the button on the pedal that had or needed a little bit of lubrication, and that solved it for me, but in any case, your videos are very informative and very helpful and I have subscribed to your RUclips channel for future videos on how to with my singer 338.
Congratulations! I'm glad you got the pedal sorted out. You should be in for some happy sewing. I enjoyed your comments. Thank you.
Thank you SO much, this series has be really useful. These things are so brilliantly made. And I love that the porcelain part inside mine is blue glazed! Thanks again.
You are so welcome! I'm glad you found them useful. Nice of you to comment.
10:20 - One thing I do not understand, Andy, is where the gap is supposed to be? I can buy a Feeler Gauge for precise measuring or estimate it. But is that gap all the way in the back, or where the 'rocking' hardware connects to the ceramic housing up front? Mystery. That is the hardest part of this restoration. I finished all my cleaning today and got it all back together and it is beautiful. Just that pesky gap thingie left.
Some tips for viewers:
I marked the electrical wires before removing. Red paint, blue paint on each wire sleeve, on screws, on housing. Now no guesswork in reassembling. I use acrylic paints. I do this for all things, and also write with felt pen.
Rubber foot pads can be shined up with Carnauba wax but don't use Vaseline which will corrode the rubber.
I cleaned up the carbon discs by rubbing on an alcohol soaked paper towel, phew! So much work. On stubborn dirt, very light rub on fine emery board which scraped off dirt fast. Emery board must be very fine like a polisher, not sander. These discs are soft like pencil lead.
I took photos of assembly before removing, so an easy reference if you get stuck, and you will! Photos are priceless.
Thanks for the great videos Andy. I just refurbished a Singer 328J and needed help with the pedal adjustment. I will soon build a custom box/case for it.
I'm glad you found the videos. Thanks for commenting and good luck with the case.
I so appreciate the detail you provide and your very clear instructions. Still waiting on you to find a Singer Featherweight 221 so you can do a video on opening the motor. Your videos are the best!
Hey, thank yo very much. Yes, someday I might be able to find a 221 at a price I can justify. I have all the reords I need for a restoration, just need the machine. Thanks for watching :)
Great series.. Thank you.
😃🙏
Great series Andy, I'm learning so much from you! Many thanks. I think silicone would be better preservative on the rubber feet, oil of any kind will swell and eventually deteriorate the rubber.
Thank you for the tip! When I asked the retired Singer fellas about wiping the feet with oil like they did they felt a small amount was ok and don't soak them in oil. We have to remember that was prior to about 1975. I like your point a lot. I'll pin your comment to the top for others to see. Thanks for taking the time to share on my channel.
Gary T, do you mean a silicone dry-lube spray?
Hi Andy, my 401g is running sweetly thanks to you. My button pedal works but it smells a bit line disinfectant I think some UK models have a suppression capacitor which might have gone bad anyway heres the real reason for dropping by today. I had the pedal plugged in pluhhed in after doing a tension check and checking the pedal operation, after about 5 min the machine starts to operate slowly with my foot know where near it! I've not seen you mention this before and I've enjoyed many hours learning from you. If the carbon stack adjustment is too loose we see the button has to be depressed further before anything happens so I'm guessing mine is to tight and a little bit of heat from use is expanding something somewhere causing the sewing ghost. Anyway I'm going to bite the bullet today and do a restoration Andy style.
Good news about your 401G. Nicely done. If you do find a radio suppressor capacitor you can simply remove it. Your guess is right on target! I have mentioned in some videos that after adjusting the pedal for button clearance to run the machine to warm up the pedal then let everything sit without running but left plugged into the wall outlet. If the adjustment was too tight a small amount of electricity will enter the carbon stacks. Not enough to run the motor by any means, but enough to start heating the carbons. Even fires have been known to happen when pedals are out of adjustment. The Singer manuals say to unplug from the outlet when not in use. You can readjust the clearance and let the pedal sit plugged in for 5 or 10 minutes and see if it stays at room temperature and does not get warm/hot. Then you are good. A carbon stack runs the hottest at low speeds. Electricity coming in from the outlet, but only a small amount is passed on to the motor. Slow sewists will especially notice this. Thanks for watching my channel, Tony. I enjoy your comments.
Thanks Andy, I knew about not leaving it plugged in when not In use, I'm really careful about that. Didn't get around to the rebuild to day but did make a cover for the 401. Really enjoying Terrible too.
@@tonyray91 Thanks for watching the Terrible Series! You can rebuild it any day, but making the 401 cover was probably more fun.
Take care.
Andy, I am in process of doing a thorough cleaning of my foot pedal for my newly acquired Singer 201-2. The foot pedal is mounted in the table and used as a knee lever. All is good until reassembly of the mechanism to the long screw that goes through the spring and porcelain carbon disk holder. My mechanism is very different from yours, which simply has the tabs to lock it into place. Mine is a much bigger mechanism with a spring on each side. I see no way to attach this mechanism to the bottom plate. There are holes in the bottom of the steel mechanism that line up with holes in the plate, however there were no screws to attach it. Also mine has no retaining brass piece that fits on to the long screw. I’m sure you have run into this different configuration while doing repairs. Could you either do a video on this type or better yet - advise me on how to proceed with this? Thank you kindly! Your videos are perfect for a total beginner (when all the parts are the same). 😁
"""" I’m sure you have run into this different configuration while doing repairs"""" I've never even seen a 201 in person. 👀
If you email to Alan at andymanuals53@gmail.com and request a copy of the original 201 Service Manual he will send you a free copy in PDF format by return email. I've already notified him to expect your request and charge it to my account. That's all I have for you, Henry. Good Luck.
Hi Andy, I did the motor speed restore and also this foot pedal one. I only had a couple carbon disks with shorted edge. When I tighten screw the pedal gets warm when idle. When I adjust to solve my control of speed is diminished. Too hard to control speed with foot, definitely works better in table with knee controller. If I buy an electronic foot how do I know it’s compatible? Is seeing the 2 prong plug enough? Thanks!
You have choices with an electronic pedal of buying one without any cords (getting harder to find) and buying one already wired for your model of machine. If you find one without cords you can usually transfer your vintage cords into the new pedal. I've done that a dozen times. If you buy one with cords for your model you just plug it in and use it. Sometimes you can swap the new cord out for your vintage cord if you are trying to match colors or pin spacing. If your pedal now has a singe two-prong cord
to a two-prong terminal on the machine, then yes a pedal with a two-prong cord LIKE YOUR OLD CORD should work. The new pedal should have a rating of about 1 AMP, which most of them do. I have never found a new electronic pedal that could work in a vintage knee lever bracket holder.
I have an all metal pedal. I cleaned them down to metal. Should i paint them? To avoid ground or avoid electrcity to run the through the case?
I don't think that is needed. I have seen all metal pedals with the paint worn badly that worked OK. Personally, if it was not very hard I would spray paint it and install or replace rubber bumpers on the bottom but it is your choice. ruclips.net/video/gcIB6VJ56Yk/видео.html
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKDdUTvSEA06K6S9Hkq60P-
Hi Andy...2 questions: my motor is running pretty hot...what do you suggest? Also, where can I buy some new grease wicks? Thank you!
Oh, there are many types of Singer motors. Can you tell me what model of Singer the motor is on?
If the motor used grease wicks then that is why it is running hot. Old grease gets hard and won't melt into the wick so the wick is dry and the bushing/bearing is probably overheating. Give me the Singer machine model number please and we'll get you the info you need.
@@andytubesewing1953 It is a gorgeous 1941 singer 201-2... and my most precious possession! I do believe it takes wicks but not sure what kind or where to get them. Thank you so much Andy!
@@joluongo552 Congratulations, Jo. I've never worked on that model, but plenty of people have. This is kind of the go-to instructions for working on your motor vssmb.blogspot.com/2012/01/complete-how-to-re-wire-potted-motor.html
I bought wicks for my featherweight here on this page www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3752 but nowadays there are kits for sale like this www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2386202.m570.l1313&_nkw=RE-WIRING+MOTOR+KIT+for+Singer+15-91+and+201-2+and+other+Sewing+Machines&_sacat=0
or just the wicks can be bought www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2386202.m570.l1313&_nkw=Singer+201-2+and+15-91+Potted+Motor+Wicks+%284%29&_sacat=0
and there are even more blogs and videos about it. This playlist of mine has 5 videos about restoring a featherweight motor ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp
I had a few viewers tell me the 201-2 and 15-91 motors were easier to work on as they are a little bigger and the wicks had better access. Best of luck to you, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Wow you are the best Andy! Thanks ever so much! I love the kits on e-bay you linked me to and I am going to order one right this very minute! I'll be looking at your other videos and hope to learn a lot more. Again...thanks!!!
@@joluongo552 I'm happy you will give it a try. I'm sure you can do it and imagine your satisfaction with your "new" motor running so well. Best of luck, and thanks for watching my channel. Oh, btw, I have some documents for your model, like parts lists, service manual that I have gathered over the years. If you want free copies just email to andymanuals53@gmail.com and ask for the 201 documents and I'll send them along. They are all in PDF format and are copies of the original manuals the Singer repairment used at the stores.
did you fix the fiber washer. and are you going to make part 7 to see how it works/ love your vedios thanks chet.
YES (watch @ 2:42) and YES, editing part 7 today. Thanks for watching.
If you make restorations in pedals machines How you replacement the carbon washer when they're missing or broken? Thanks
I knew of 4 sellers of a carbon unit for the clamshell-style of the foot pedal. I found the carbon discs inside can be removed and used in this style of the pedal. The new discs are twice as thick so you need half as many. The problem is they all sold out during the COVID pandemic when everyone started sewing again. They are having trouble getting shipments and getting the part back in stock.
I made a video about the replacement carbons and you can see it here to know what I'm talking about: ruclips.net/video/R4JuQ3o9dB0/видео.html
In the description below the video, I put links to the 4 sellers of the part. You can also buy another old pedal but you take a chance it has bad carbon discs. Many folks now are just buying a new electronic-style pedal (no carbons) and changing out the old pedal while keeping the old cord onto the new electronic pedal.
Thank you very much for your support and help, I'll take a look in your videos and the links. Thank you again.
@@gabrieltottzi4545 Sure; good luck.
Sorry Andy, I just saw the pinned comments at the start of video #1 of this series about asbestos.
It's hard to say for sure, but you recommended care in handling this stuff and keeping it under control. So, you've already covered this topic.
No worries, no sorry. One year after I made this series I encountered an asbestos pad (for the first time) while working on the controller of a 99K machine. Here is the video of that and what I did about it: ruclips.net/video/gcIB6VJ56Yk/видео.html
Thanks for watching and all your comments. We all learn from communicating.
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I took my foot controller apart again, I think for about the tenth time, because I still couldn't get the machine to run slow. When I used parts from a donor pedal I used some of the carbons and the contactors in the foot controller I wanted to use. So when I took it apart I went over the parts very carefully and noticed that the flange parts of the donated contactors were thicker. So I put them back in and noticed that the contactors were pinned down into the pile and couldn't move and were tight. It didn't hum or get hot before but could not get it to run slow. So I bent the retainers up so the contactors were loose and low and behold the old girl ran perfect. I was beginning to worry that the screws holding the base to the top were going to wear out I've had it apart so many times. Another thing that happened was that I wasn't getting interference on my radio any more. Those contactors need to be able to move and not be tight in there. So, Andy, if you're out there thanks again for all the videos. I think I'm done!
Congratulations, Ralph. Your determination is impressive! You must feel justified doing all that detective work and getting a great result! Hope you can just have some good crafting time now. Take care.
Thanks
Welcome👍
se ve explicas bien lastima que no te entienda ni madres. deberías subir la traducción al español
Si, es una pena. Mis videos son vistos en más de 200 países y territorios por personas que hablan muchos idiomas diferentes. Aquellos que no entienden inglés simplemente cambian el idioma en el CC (subtítulos) de inglés a cualquier idioma que prefieran. Cualquiera en el planeta puede hacer eso. Aquí hay algunos videos sobre cómo hacerlo: ruclips.net/video/PuwejQav4-0/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/jUSCUsCkQ8Y/видео.html
Ah, y estoy de acuerdo contigo; mi video se ve bien. Gracias por el cumplido. 👍