I have been using OO steel wool to clean up the metal brass parts. Seems to work good on my Singer 66's, 99K's foot controls and motors and even parts of the sewing machines. Now doing a Singer 237 machine with the clam shell foot control like in this video series of yours. Could not do it without your videos, THANKS!!!
Thanks for sharing. I've used the steel wool on damaged needle bars before and it worked well. Best of luck with your foot controller. Here is a link to my Playlist page with 400+ videos listed by Model number: ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public
This style seems to have a lot more of those fiddley parts than the button style. I like learning about them even though I don't have any of this kind. I have a much deeper understanding of the way they all work now.
Working on this helped me understand the old saying "Patience is a virtue!" Reading your comment reminded me I need to mention that these carbon discs are the same size as the ones in the Button Style foot pedal. You may need to "cannibalize" the carbons from a pedal like this one day to replace carbons in your button style pedal, so it is good to know about this style. Thank you for the comment, and I'm happy you still watch Andy Tube :)
Not normal. The electricity should flow smoothly through all parts of the pedal. What is making it spark is too much resistance, dirty connections (like the springs), and probably dirty carbon discs inside the ceramic tube. That tube is a "carbon stack resistor" and when you press on the pedal the carbon discs get compressed which makes less resistance and allows more electricity to flow thru them. The springs make contact and allow the electricity to flow thru the wires to the motor. When springs and carbons get dirty (carbon deposits) they become much more resistant to flow and that allows the current to build up higher until the point it "jumps the gap" between the sprints and thus the spark. (like a spark plug) Usually, unless the carbon discs have cracked or crumbled they can be carefully "polished" to remove the carbon "soot" so they work much better. The contact areas of the springs can be cleaned. If there are pitted spots they can be filled with solder. The unit can be adjusted back to normal and work properly. This video is part 2 of a playlist. Parts 3A & 3B show how to clean and adjust the carbon discs and adjust the "play" in the side contact springs. Unless the carbon discs were destroyed I've been able to clean and adjust every pedal I came across. Here is the playlist for all the videos: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
Thank you very much! 500+ more videos where this came from ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=subscriber Thanks for commenting and take care.
No one makes those parts new. You either need to repair them or buy a used pedal on a site like eBay, www.ebay.com/itm/Foot-Controller-Pedal-for-Singer-722-724-734-737-755-756-758-774-775-776-778-802/114485835357?hash=item1aa7e3365d:g:pN8AAOSw4VJfgvO0 or replace your whole pedal with a new electronic one. www.ebay.com/itm/3-Prong-Power-Cord-Foot-Pedal-Control-for-many-Singer-Sewing-Machine-362095-001/232073874799?hash=item3608ae4d6f:g:CBAAAOSwx-9W0nOS Those are examples.
I have a two speed clam shell foot pedal Fast/Slow that runs machine but takes 4-5 seconds to stop which is annoying. Inside it looks very different. Serial number 163655 singer touch n sew golden. Can you demo this one.
One more reason I do not work on Touch & Sew Models. I can't help you. There are probably electronic parts that are failing but that is just a guess. The Guru or T&S machine is Terry, IMO. store.tandtrepair.com/ He may have a guide for the pedal repair or give you some advice.
I have been using OO steel wool to clean up the metal brass parts. Seems to work good on my Singer 66's, 99K's foot controls and motors and even parts of the sewing machines. Now doing a Singer 237 machine with the clam shell foot control like in this video series of yours. Could not do it without your videos, THANKS!!!
Thanks for sharing. I've used the steel wool on damaged needle bars before and it worked well. Best of luck with your foot controller. Here is a link to my Playlist page with 400+ videos listed by Model number: ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=public
This style seems to have a lot more of those fiddley parts than the button style. I like learning about them even though I don't have any of this kind. I have a much deeper understanding of the way they all work now.
Working on this helped me understand the old saying "Patience is a virtue!" Reading your comment reminded me I need to mention that these carbon discs are the same size as the ones in the Button Style foot pedal. You may need to "cannibalize" the carbons from a pedal like this one day to replace carbons in your button style pedal, so it is good to know about this style. Thank you for the comment, and I'm happy you still watch Andy Tube :)
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
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Hi Andy, is normal that this foot pedal make a little spark when the metal spring touch each other? Thanks
Not normal. The electricity should flow smoothly through all parts of the pedal. What is making it spark is too much resistance, dirty connections (like the springs), and probably dirty carbon discs inside the ceramic tube. That tube is a "carbon stack resistor" and when you press on the pedal the carbon discs get compressed which makes less resistance and allows more electricity to flow thru them. The springs make contact and allow the electricity to flow thru the wires to the motor. When springs and carbons get dirty (carbon deposits) they become much more resistant to flow and that allows the current to build up higher until the point it "jumps the gap" between the sprints and thus the spark. (like a spark plug) Usually, unless the carbon discs have cracked or crumbled they can be carefully "polished" to remove the carbon "soot" so they work much better. The contact areas of the springs can be cleaned. If there are pitted spots they can be filled with solder. The unit can be adjusted back to normal and work properly. This video is part 2 of a playlist. Parts 3A & 3B show how to clean and adjust the carbon discs and adjust the "play" in the side contact springs. Unless the carbon discs were destroyed I've been able to clean and adjust every pedal I came across. Here is the playlist for all the videos:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKItPLWcK24FBoMdHK8vTXNi Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much. I will watch those videos to get it clean and see if it works better.
@@franatort Welcome, Francisco. If you have any issues I'm here. Good luck.
fantastic!!!!!
Thank you very much! 500+ more videos where this came from ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists?view_as=subscriber
Thanks for commenting and take care.
Do you know where I can find replacement copper elements?
No one makes those parts new. You either need to repair them or buy a used pedal on a site like eBay, www.ebay.com/itm/Foot-Controller-Pedal-for-Singer-722-724-734-737-755-756-758-774-775-776-778-802/114485835357?hash=item1aa7e3365d:g:pN8AAOSw4VJfgvO0 or replace your whole pedal with a new electronic one. www.ebay.com/itm/3-Prong-Power-Cord-Foot-Pedal-Control-for-many-Singer-Sewing-Machine-362095-001/232073874799?hash=item3608ae4d6f:g:CBAAAOSwx-9W0nOS Those are examples.
My bottom element was all but cooked through.
I fixed it with a dab of super glue and a pre-1982 penny :-D
I have a two speed clam shell foot pedal Fast/Slow that runs machine but takes 4-5 seconds to stop which is annoying. Inside it looks very different. Serial number 163655 singer touch n sew golden. Can you demo this one.
One more reason I do not work on Touch & Sew Models. I can't help you. There are probably electronic parts that are failing but that is just a guess. The Guru or T&S machine is Terry, IMO. store.tandtrepair.com/ He may have a guide for the pedal repair or give you some advice.