Well ! That looks a first class job, a job I am about to do, but the material cost will be 4 times that here in France, even though I will mill the timber myself! I see by the padded shirt your temperatures must have plummeted, we had our first frost here this morning, time to put a shirt on ! Take care Steve! Chris B.
Thanks Chris, Yep the temperatures are fluctuating here in NW England, it was a 3 layer approach. Wow I didn’t realise that timber would be more expensive in France, is it regional of all across France? It’s just I’ve recently bought a few boards of Oak (10ftx1ftxx2’) that came from France and they were £18 a piece, reasonably straight stuff at 20% moisture rate ugh was a good price! Cheers Steve
@@Phenrica Odd is'nt it, we would pay 3 times that here in southern France, just to buy slabs of Oak to make 1 1/2" thick plank door costs circa £100 for the timber, and I have to cut it square and to length, I just buy a sawn slice of Oak tree and mill it up to size, I bought 35 Sq Mts of French Oak flooring from UK, had it shipped down to me, and it was still half the price I would pay here ? Everything is much more expensive in France ,except wine? Ironically I bought the flooring from a Frenchman that lives in UK ? I should buy a portable saw mill and cut the trees from my own wood! Chris B.
Great video. Just discovered your channel by looking at how to make doors and windows. Bought a book on it which was written in 1907 do hard to understand for me due to not being in the trade. Need some videos to explain it. A subscriber from me.
Great stuff. I've been needing to make 3 small and one large casements for a couple of years now and could find nothing on youtube. Guess now i've got no excuse. Thanks : )
What is the point of the through dovetail joint vs. a but joint or mitered but joint and screws? It looks nice, but it will never be seen and is painted over?
Hi Ben, thanks for the watch and comment. Technically there’s more glue surface created therefore a much stronger joint, butt joint and screws well the screws go into end grain even if glued strength is questionable. In the end it’s personal choice and using a traditional joint in a traditional casement window feels more appropriate to me. However different strokes for different folks all are functional. Cheers Steve
Where it’s fitted is in a covered area with no chance of any water issues. If I fitted this to an external weather exposed area then I’d ensure the opening I was fitting into was either rebated or a shoulder plant and use plenty of silicon 😉
Hi Eliza, I use a bearing guided rebating / slot bit that’s got a bearing at the bottom that follows the frame , here’s a link www.tooled-up.com/trend-bearing-self-guided-rebate-router-cutter/prod/235752 Then it’s down to the depth of rebate for which size bit you need. I also have a number of bearing sizes which help managed the depth of cut width wise that I use (hope makes sense) as I recall the one I used was a 32mm (1.25”) dia bit and a final bearing size of 9.5mm (3/8”) that left a 11mm (7/16”) rebate. I use the different size bearing to help manage and splintering. Hope this helps Steve
To be honest I can’t recall apart from that it’s pretty straight forward in terms of placing the glass in the Rebated recess and then pin the beading to hold the glass in place.
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Nice! It's great when something nice comes out of some construction grade lumber.
Sure is Jim 👍🏻
I really enjoyed this video. I feel its a good and realistic balance of wood machining and wood working. Great stuff.
Thanks 👍🏻
Looking good, Steve!
Great video and Beautiful window Steve! Really well done My Friend.
Thanks Steve C 👍🏻
Absolutely brilliant! 🤩
I like your tools specifically mini planer
Well ! That looks a first class job, a job I am about to do, but the material cost will be 4 times that here in France, even though I will mill the timber myself! I see by the padded shirt your temperatures must have plummeted, we had our first frost here this morning, time to put a shirt on ! Take care Steve! Chris B.
Thanks Chris, Yep the temperatures are fluctuating here in NW England, it was a 3 layer approach. Wow I didn’t realise that timber would be more expensive in France, is it regional of all across France? It’s just I’ve recently bought a few boards of Oak (10ftx1ftxx2’) that came from France and they were £18 a piece, reasonably straight stuff at 20% moisture rate ugh was a good price! Cheers Steve
@@Phenrica Odd is'nt it, we would pay 3 times that here in southern France, just to buy slabs of Oak to make 1 1/2" thick plank door costs circa £100 for the timber, and I have to cut it square and to length, I just buy a sawn slice of Oak tree and mill it up to size, I bought 35 Sq Mts of French Oak flooring from UK, had it shipped down to me, and it was still half the price I would pay here ? Everything is much more expensive in France ,except wine? Ironically I bought the flooring from a Frenchman that lives in UK ? I should buy a portable saw mill and cut the trees from my own wood! Chris B.
Great video. Just discovered your channel by looking at how to make doors and windows. Bought a book on it which was written in 1907 do hard to understand for me due to not being in the trade. Need some videos to explain it. A subscriber from me.
Thanks Lee, hope it helps. Cheers Steve
Ps the book is definitely not mine 😂
Great stuff. I've been needing to make 3 small and one large casements for a couple of years now and could find nothing on youtube. Guess now i've got no excuse. Thanks : )
Sorry Mike for removing the excuses 😂 Thanks for the comment and I’m sure yours will be spot on 👍🏻 Cheers Steve
What is the point of the through dovetail joint vs. a but joint or mitered but joint and screws? It looks nice, but it will never be seen and is painted over?
Hi Ben, thanks for the watch and comment. Technically there’s more glue surface created therefore a much stronger joint, butt joint and screws well the screws go into end grain even if glued strength is questionable. In the end it’s personal choice and using a traditional joint in a traditional casement window feels more appropriate to me. However different strokes for different folks all are functional. Cheers Steve
Will that be water tight around the frame where you fit the window frame into
Where it’s fitted is in a covered area with no chance of any water issues. If I fitted this to an external weather exposed area then I’d ensure the opening I was fitting into was either rebated or a shoulder plant and use plenty of silicon 😉
How did you keep the router so straight for the glass rebate. It didn’t look like you were using a guide. I’m finding routing really tricky.
Hi Eliza, I use a bearing guided rebating / slot bit that’s got a bearing at the bottom that follows the frame , here’s a link www.tooled-up.com/trend-bearing-self-guided-rebate-router-cutter/prod/235752
Then it’s down to the depth of rebate for which size bit you need. I also have a number of bearing sizes which help managed the depth of cut width wise that I use (hope makes sense) as I recall the one I used was a 32mm (1.25”) dia bit and a final bearing size of 9.5mm (3/8”) that left a 11mm (7/16”) rebate. I use the different size bearing to help manage and splintering.
Hope this helps
Steve
Why didnt yoou show the placement of the glass??
To be honest I can’t recall apart from that it’s pretty straight forward in terms of placing the glass in the Rebated recess and then pin the beading to hold the glass in place.