A mistake was made in telling if you have a v1.4 or a v1.5 you need to measure pin 2. I showed pin 1 also you could measure pin 9 while the console is powered on. it should be 3.3v if not it's most likely a 1.5. though there is alot of speculation around the existence of the 1.5 so who knows. wish I would have caught my mistake way earlier.
I found my Xbox on the thrash and silly me brought it home, after like 5 minutes i learned my mistake... it had an infestation of roaches!! i had to quickly bring the spraycan. I spent like 3 hours of cleaning two coats of roach shit and killing the buggers. When i checked the PSU and it had some sort of "Fuse" covered by plastic, after scraping the plastic covering the fuse, it looked like it had blown. So i made a small bridge between both ends and put it together. My Xbox motherboard has much less capacitators. I tried searching for videos and screenshots of my motherboard but none of the 100+ screenshots that i found seem to match the motherboard that i got. I could not even find the Clock cap... now you mentioned an Xcalibur video chip, it seems that i have that, and that would mean i have a v1.6? The xbox came with a Samsung DVD Drive, an 8GB HDD Western Digital and the PSU which says Delta. After a couple days i ordered the AV Cables, two controllers and a power cord, since whoever threw didn't got rid of those. The XBOX workd perfectly after cleaning it and bridging the PSU fuse. I want to get a new Fuse but there is absolutely zero info regarding the Fuse Voltage/Amp. When i launched the Xbox I noticed it had a TON of Emulators ranging from NES, SNES, N64, Sega Master/Genesis and MAME. I thought 1.6 was hard to softmod, but i can't seem to find any sort of chip installed to the motherboard. I am also trying to update the softmod launcher but i know very little about such things. For now, everything works perfectly and i am kinda getting attached to this roachy xbox console.
softmod is as easily done on a v1.6 as on any other versions. ram upgrade and a tsop flash are not possible on a v1.6 a modchip can be mounted but requires some soldering to get it working.
@Steve Underwood the pins are on the LPC header, if you google "xbox LPC pinout" you should be able to find a pinout to aid you. thanks a bunch its much appreciated!
I really appreciated the kernel to version chart @5:57. This is extremely helpful in determining the version since you can even get this information directly from the dashboard (in settings) after powering on the XBOX without having to even disconnect it! Thanks for this!
This video is making me realize, how into XBOX and gaming I was. Extremely. (I bought a power supply for the thing, after mine was showing weakness in some way.
Yo my xbox turned off randomly last night while I was on underground lmao I thought it broke but the power cable was making a weird hiss noise so changed it with my other one and no issues now hahahaha
Huh, I was surprised to find that mine's a 1.6, as I'd softmodded it a while ago without any issues and was under the impression that you couldn't softmod a 1.6 without some hardware mods, but hey I'm not complaining. Thank you for your awesome OG Xbox videos, it's nice to see such passion for this old beast.
Yeah all Xbox versions can be softmodded no problem. The 1.6 just doesn't have a Tsop chip like the others so in order to hardmod it needs a modchip. The LPC also needs to be rebuilt Microsoft was trying to fight the modders but in the end didn't do to much. I really appreciate you saying that! Alot of them are pretty old now, have a few iv been working on but the process has been slow
Nathaniel Smith specs aren’t everything. It’s about the games. The games were amazing on that console, and you rarely see that type of creativity anymore.
I do have to say I’ve seen some quite interesting things with the Xbox’s I’ve owned. Mostly later Xbox’s with earlier parts. Like a late 1.4 with a Phillips that had a metal cover on the front assembly. Or even a 2 row Foxlink off of a parts 1.3 I own. Both of which are very reliable which I find quite interesting.
Haha yeah never know what you're going to get especially if they have been opened prior. Once I start going through my stack to make working xboxs who knows what mis match of parts will be used. Thanks for sharing and thank for watching!
I've had all 4 disc drives. The Hitachi worked well, but it was a bit noisy mechanically. There were actually two version of the Samsung drive. The first version was the best one. The second version did not read CD-R nearly as well. There's a very small subtle difference to the disc tray as well that you can check to determine which version you had.
Thanks to your video I was able to discover my cousins Xbox from childhood was a v1.0 with a Delta 1-Row PSU (I'm shocked it hasn't caught fire after all these years), 10mb Seagate hard drive, and a Thompson drive which indeed is terrible and had more issues running the GTA games than anything else. After taking his to soft mod it, I replaced his with a v1.6 so he could still had an Xbox, it happened to have a Hitachi drive, and I can also confirm it definitely loaded faster after comparing with the v1.0.
I'm looking for a birthday present and doing some research. This was extremely helpful and I learned WAY more about XBox Original than I will ever use (who knows?) Thank you so much! (Also as a bonus, you're voice is nice and really easy to listen to!)
I'm happy to hear that the video was helpful. haha, yea you never know when a bit of OG Xbox knowledge will come in handy. well, thank I'm glad that im easy to listen to.... recording voiceovers is my least favorite part of making videos. i appreciate the comment good luck with your b-day present hunt!
I bought a OG Xbox at an estate sale few weeks ago. According to your video I believe I have a 1.6b. Opened it up to clean and it has everything you said that a 1.6b would have. Unfortunately I have to troubleshoot it because it won’t display video but it does turn on. Also disc drive is broken as well. Hope I can restore it.
This video is the reason I found out the Xbox I've had for the last 18 years is a 1.6b. I have the Xcalliber encoder chip and the Hynix ram modules. The manufacture date is 2005/04/25 which means it was one of the last consoles off the production line. I think there were fewer than 4 months of consoles produced after mine. Edit: my power supply doesn't resemble any of those either. Want me to send you a picture of mine?
Found this helpful with identifying the 2 xboxes I just got today, both of which have had the manufacturing date on SN rubbed off. I will likely come back to this vid in the future, so thanks for sharing!
I absolutely loved the video about the XBOX revisions, its nuts on how many revisions of parts they had as well. I own a Hitachi DVD drive in my Xectuer chipped 1.6. The drive sounds like a Hitachi from a XBOX 360. But in all fairness its the best drive from my experience with drives. Samsung and Toshibas I had struggled with loading burned discs, I have had both variants of the Phillips drives burn out on me. I had a Thomson that had the motor for the laser stops. But I never had an issue with my Hitachi drive. :D With the HDD's The first one that were inside was the Seagate U Series 5 10GB with then the first 8GB HDD. Then another WD came out which has 8GB same capacity. Then the Seagate X series came out with 10GB. Weirdly enough both WD's were 8GB. Might be wrong but I got two WD's similar from the video and if you look at the model they are both have the 8GB Capacity model number. (WD80???). Hope this was interesting to read. :D
It is crazy, I will say the Ps2 had alot more variations through its life cycle, which definitely makes the Xbox a more simple to mod/fix console. Thanks for sharing your experience with DVD drives it definitely helps others and me give better recommendations when I'm asked, course no drive is perfect really just depends on how well it was treated. I won't put anything other then perfect disc's in any of my consoles. as it stands now I have a working Phillips, a Thomson that barely works, a Samsung that works fine but the tray always gets stuck. And maybe some others I still have a few Xboxs on the shelve that I haven't gotten around to messing with (probably should because of the clock cap)
@@TechnoOnTop Glad to know that I am a help to others. Yeah to be fair, I have heard that Hitachi's have issues with lasers but personally I have never had a issue. Honestly, I believe its the more that the drive is used the easier it is for it to fail. Its like a car, as long as its mantained, it will be a strong runner :P The PS2 varients are complicated. I have the first gen of pal units. SPCH-30003 but it runs lovely. :D Had a SCPH 50003 but it did not last long at all. :P
Thanks for this, my Xbox GFCI power cord just started popping and I wasn't sure why. This along with other videos I watched really helped me figure out my next step.
With the info in this video i was able to pick up a 1.6 samsung ram motherboard system with a hitatchi disc drive and a seagate hard drive (eew seagate.) after a quick look everything seems to be in order, the clock capacitor is a gold one and shows no sign of damage, the power supply is a delta brand and uses jumper wires from the plug port to the pcb to reduce stress. All looks well and good. thanks for the help! :)
Mine is probably a v1.6 or 1.6b - 2005-07-14. I'm not into modding or anything, I was just checking after hearing about the cheap clock capacitor leaking onto motherboards in older models. Glad that I won't be needing to replace it.
the samsung drives used ferrofluid on the lens servo which over time collected dust and turned into a thick paste breaking drives ability to focus.Though they worked the best they also lasted the shortest. Therefor I only used them to dump dodgy discs and rest of the time stored them in antistatic bags
I didn't know that thanks for sharing. Do you think the paste could be cleaned off to fix them? Then use another electronic grease on the servos instead?
Awesome awesome awesome video, very comprehensive and i feel like i can buy that stack of 3 xboxes for 30$ from ebay now ..... errr if its still there, however very inspiring and i do see myself grabbing one of these to mod, looking forward to more content ( maybe a build series?? where you piece together the " best " components and create something fancy ) anything you do will be interesting to watch as has been my experience with your channel so far. :D
wow! 3 for $30 if that includes shipping that's a steal of a deal! I bought a stack of 8 awhile ago I think I paid like $110. I say go for it modding is a fun hobby and the OG xbox is a great platform to learn on. definitely more to come iv been working on a few projects have considered trying to do some type of build series. but need to work out some type of rig to make getting the footage a bit easier, anyways I appreciate your comment and glad to have you aboard!
TriniRogue Well there's original XBOXES out there for like 5$-10$ literally but those are usually one the have stuck disc tray or bad parts but I don't mind I'll buy them then, refurbish/fix them and either mod em for me or sell em just refurbish or modded (/either/both one).
In my experience EBay is the worst place to buy an OG Xbox on the cheap. Most are $60 bucks or less but when compared to thrift store prices, it's expensive.
Dude, you had the exact issue I am having with the caps. Excellent summary. I of course had to go through and identify every part that I had, per your description. 1.6, Toshiba CD, WD HD. However, my power board looks slightly different than yours, might be I am missing something though. Done rambling. Thanks for the excellent info.
Yeah there are some some different psu's even third party ones, I just showed what I had, since then iv seen a few different looking ones, thanks for watching much appreciated
Always believe what the inside is telling you lol. Was it opened before you took it apart? It's possible the inards where swapped into a different case. It's also possible that it was sent in to Microsoft for a RMA and they printed a new tag with a different date.
I've got to open mine again to check the capacitors and figure out why the DVD drive has stopped reading discs, was full of dust at one point but cleaning it out didn't help at all. I'll look into softmodding it so I can enable higher resolution outputs. Good video, very informative.
Based on my console being from *2002* and the single-row power-supply, it could be *v1.0 or v1.1* But the serial number being *'05'* means it could be *v1.2 - v1.6* I've never been so confused.
Was the Xbox opened prior to you having it? If so it could of been swapped into a different case. Also if it was sent into Microsoft for service they may or re-printed a serial sticker with the updated date. If that's the case you should be able to see a sticker over a sticker. If not maybe you just got an oddball base the version from the video chip
Just changed 18 year old thermal paste, boy was it in tight. Good thing is that I have kept the Xbox unplugged always when not using it so all the capacitors were in great shape :) this video was great for identifying my Xbox as 1.0 version
Yeah it can be a pain to remove the gpu heatsink, it's best to heat it up I use hot air but another way is just turning it on and letting it heat up, but that's good to hear, it's still good practice to remove the clock capacitor, but if you don't want to just be sure to keep an eye on it. I appreciate the comment! Happy modding!
A fast way to tell if an xbox is at least TSOPable and RAM upgradable, (1.0-1.5), is by looking at the AV output connector. 1.6 boards have a connector that shows some of its metal shielding across the bottom. 1.0-1.4 boards don't show any internal metal shielding. Not positive about the 1.5 boards cause I've never seen one. But it'll save you when you come across xboxs with the MFG date sticker wiped clean.
Ive had over 25 original xboxes and BY FAR the samsung cd drives were most found to be failure prone. I do remember reading in multiple forums back in the early 00's that they were supposedly the best. I've actually found phillips and thompson to be quite reliable, phillips more so .
Great video, I used it as a refresher recently for TSOPing one of my 1.0 consoles. Are you sure you're testing against the right pin for a 1.4 vs 1.5 though? You said to test between pin 2 and any of the grounds near the screw holes, but it looks like you're actually connecting your red lead to pin 1, not pin 2. I ask because I tried the same thing with my very first original Xbox, the one I literally spent my childhood playing Halo 2 on, and when using the pin you specify, I get the same results, but when trying what appears to actually be pin 2, I do get a resistance value above 1.
you know its funny, i halfway think what I showed was wrong... it wasn't me who came up with that test.....your right every console i test it on i get the same value.... so its probably misleading or maybe the console needs to be powered on? or like you said its the wrong pin lol ugh...i will say that that board is definitely a 1.5 but not based on that test its what the system information in XBMC says.. thanks for watching!
That is the thing, my results are the same going by your video, but my dashboards do report it is a 1.4 console. Other sources also say to test against pin #2. It looks like in your video you were probing pin #1. I bet if you did probe pin #2 on that console, you would be validated.
I noticed it's the same thing when watching the video. My results on my motherboard also support testing actual pin 2, not pin location 1. Thank you for commenting on that. I was starting to think I was the only one who noticed.
+Steven Benson I wrote v1.5 on it after confirming it in the system information menu on xbmc the board is just garbage that since I have some Xbox fascination I have stored for years for no real reason . This was well before I knew how to use a multi meter, one thing that is strange is the 1.0 and the 1.2 I have that are broken also have there grounds disconnected. I need to see if I have a 1.4 and see if that test actually even works. Never thought to question it as it was a guide on the Xbox scene
yes I have actually attempted it twice, both times I tried to use used ram I pulled off other broken boards, both times it didnt work, always planned on giving it another go with a different tactic and using new RAM but haven't yet
wow $30 for a tip? my station came with a pretty big assortment when i got it but ebay has the same type of assortments for pretty cheap www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-Solder-Screwdriver-Iron-Tip-900M-T-for-Hakko-Soldering-Rework-Station-Tool/181633425710?epid=1055325628&hash=item2a4a32212e:g:04oAAOSwnDxUq2F5
Back when the 1.6B came out. I wrote a program that basically has you select certain steps to find out which version you have. It should be on the old Xbox modding forum for the OG xbox. Combination of several factors. Serial, chips, heat sink, fan etc. Then you could know what was needed to mod yours. However now there is 1 chip that can mod any of them.
Great video, but I’ve got mine open now as I want to mod it. I have Conextant Chip, Samsung RAM, No Fan just a heat sink and a single PSU in the board. I also have a Samsung DVD drive and a Seagate HDD. The year is 2002. So what version do I have?
As long as it's not an Xcalibur video chip you can tsop it. Do you empty spots for ram 2 on top and 2 on bottom. But from what your saying. Go ahead an softmod then move on to a tsop
My Xbox has the Hitachi Drive, This is the first video I seen that referenced it. I only hear about the other 3. So I assume my Xbox is a late model. However. I will say the Hitachi works the best that I've had so far. I took back Thompson and Philips Xbox's already back to the retro store and I got lucky to have the rare Hitachi drive. Growing up I never Had the Hitachi drive with the two small holes on the tray and I happy I'm do now.Thank you for clearing that up for me.
Yes, Samsung drives were the best, iirc the Thompsom one used the same laser to read CDs and had several problems to read burnt discs and even a few pressed ones. Samsung drives had a problem where the focus and tracking coils ended up soaked in some weird dark-ish goo that I had to clean several times. Phillips drives where right up there with the Samsung ones.
Thanks for the input, I didn't know that the smasungs had that problem until someone else mentioned it. Makes me wonder if those Samsung drives I have would actually work if I opened them up and cleaned them.
The Xbox switches into its HD based on which pins are shorted through the component cable connector. In xbmc there is a setting. I feel like I remember there being some button combo to push but I'm unsure off the top of my head
the way to tell the difference between v1.2 and v1.3 is to check LPC pin 3 with an Ohm meter set on the 2000 scale. a v1.2 will get a reading, the v1.3 will be open circuit. v1.2s are actaully very uncommon.
+Dondonian yeah it's been a solid drive to me for the most part I've come across a few that don't read disc's and even one thats insane loud but it still works perfectly. Granted I have a working Samsung thats in my now a shell first modded Xbox
except for that one i had as a kid iv never had that happen again, and its never happened to anyone i have ever known, im sure your ok for me it happened while i was playing tony hawks wasteland
Seems like I have an original 1.0, with a Thompson drive and a foxlink PSU too.. even though this console also came with a free leaking clock capacitor and corrosion all around that area it still works great!
Either cool or not cool depending on if you wanted to hard mod it. As iv said iv never come across a 1.6b and iv bought a fare share of Xbox consoles of my years of modding. Thanks for checking out the video
My manufacturing date is 2001, the dashboard kernel is on 4034, so I think it's fair to say I've got a 1.0. I'm pretty sure I had something newer years ago on my original box because discs loaded faster and it wasn't as noisy, but I'm sure those can be explained with age and dust.
Yeah probably just age, iv had some pretty noisy disc drives over the years, also on the v1. 0 the gpu fan bearing usually goes bad making it sound like a lawnmower, thanks for watching
@@TechnoOnTop Sure thing. Also, thanks for helping me out. I did a TSOP flash yesterday and just like I thought, I had a 1.0. I had a sticker on the MOBO and HDD with 4034 on it too.
@@TechnoOnTop my og Xbox was manufactured in July 2003 and it has a western digital drive, Samsung disk drive, foxlink psu, and the conexant video encoder. Is it a revision 1.3?
Thanks for the very clear differentiations! Very informative ! I've got the excalibur chip with samsung memory, and its modded with a Duo X2 GS so it can't be that hard can it? I do wonder what the "switch" on that chip does though... if I informed myself right it's a dual bios chip and one chip works for versions 1-5 and the other for 1.6 and 6b, the swich is supposed to make those changes. I don't even know what mine is set at. Though I have one question. Isn't it so that the very first original xbox had a slightly weaker graphics chip than the later versions? You could see it by the (original, not modded) dashboard alone if I remember correctly. Not sure what the distinction exactly is but if I remember right from the days they were very much different. Any info about that?
no problem thanks for checking it out! yeah that switch on the chip switches between the 2 memory banks, it would be set on the BIOS specific to the 1.6's which is M8+ or some variation on that. i can remember reading something on that but i cant really remember the details of it.the Xcalibur chip has issues playing certain games at 480p... jetset radio future is one of them....there are a few others but im not sure off the top of my head.....they were probably other Sega games. or games made by that same studio.
I’ve asked this question in other places in the past hour or so but I’m still looking for answers. Clock Capacitor Question I got my Xbox off eBay a few weeks ago and was made in January 2004, months before the 1.6 version. I’m unsure whether modifications were made or not, because the controller I got had the control sticks replaced with PS2 ones. Also my power strip keeps getting unplugged and whenever I boot up my Xbox after this it takes me to the clock set up, but if I power it off and on without being unplugged, it takes me straight to the menu or game. So could the clock capacitor potentially be already removed or not? I haven’t opened it up to check but I am curious for obvious reasons. And by the way, I unplugged my Xbox, plugged it back in seconds later, powered it on, and I get the clock menu, but the stickers are still there.
It would seem thr clock cap is bad from what you're describing, you should really pop it open and get rid of it, so long as it's not a 1.6. The dates aren't the most accurate to go by. If it happens to be a 1.6 then you will need to replace the cap, but I'm doubting it is, no cap in a 1.6 puts the console into a boot loop. Anyways good luck thanks for watching
Yeah I haven't messed much with xboxs lately and even when I did my main was always a slim. But for modding I have a Samsung as it seems to always read the burned hexen disc.
cool video bro. I've heard Microsoft added a fuse later on (external Box with TEST button). I have that, but also others. You could have also covered what versions most likely are in a Crystal or the Skeleton (first grey one in Japan) or a transparent green one etc. That would have maybe helped also a bit. I will maybe take a look at what versions or what CD I have with your reference. Pretty rad. I also have some modded ones, but not did myself.
Yeah they did a recall where they replaced the power cords. From what I read that did nothing to actually fix the problem. Iv personally never had one of the "fixed" cords. And I'd figure there aren't to many floating around. I don't own any of the transparent ones. Iv passed up a few over the years that I'm kicking myself for not buying... Oh well but thanks for watching I appreciate it
Old comment thread. Are the recalled power cables worth more? I have one. Microsoft sent me a letter, back in the day, about the recall. They sent me the external brick power cable.
I remember calling Microsoft back in the day and talking to that really cool automated system and getting a replacement surge protector for my first Xbox, unfortunately I lost it years ago
I do slightly remember having to call tech support, though I'm pretty sure I actually talked to some dude, ended up having to send my Xbox back honestly have no idea why, maybe the disc drive stopped working? All I know is it was a long few weeks haha. Thanks for sharing and for watching!
@@TechnoOnTop if you come across a few xboxs with bad cd drives and such let me know, I run a vintage computer shop and wanted to try rebuilding the CD drive using it's ATX counterparts. On that, I've owned two 1.0 and 1.1 consoles with the single rail, more commonly known as AT style power supplies, vs the dual rain being ATX. I miss my old one but was happy I found another for $25 locally. I just replaced the clock battery and plan on doing a hard drive mod but keeping a stock interface
Im sure I have a bunch of broken DVD drives, I just kinda throw them in a bin all together, so not sure what's broken and what's not, most either struggle to read disc's or don't at all. Your talking about putting in different laser assembly? It would be awesome to find replacements for those would really help alot of people out
@@killerkip1 wouldn't it end up just being the same problem at some point? whats needed is a source of new lasers that will work not just a random one from a random drive that also probably doesn't have replacements made for it anymore. i find it weird that not chines company has started making some type of replacement, considering you can find cheap aftermarket replacements for the ps2, psp ect..
Trying to figure what the Model Number: is for certain color xbox's so i can fix pricecharting listings for og xbox's especially the bell blue halo xbox
One thing that needs to be mentioned is the clock capacitor. Every xbox except for the 1.6 and 1.6b need the capacitor removed because it will over time leak onto the board and kill the console.
OMG im so confused because I have the samsung chip with the the upgrade that does not have the fan but this console was made in 02 and the kernal sticker is not the just a serial number sticker I need more help I think I have a 1.1 but it has been refurbished will that affect my abbility to tsop mod the xbox origonal
I also have a conzant ship with no fan and single row power supply my ram chips also say samsung so also my consoles front panel button connectors are in the same place as a 1.6 but all the chips are in the same place as the 1.0 I also have a delta power supply someone please contact me we can skype call if needed to identify
My modded one (from a child) is a 1 it's got the fan on CPU and a failed Thompson disc drive, the other one I got has no CPU fan, Phillips drive which works and they both have leaky capacitor
I have a 1.1 here that has burn marks on the power supply connector, the board is ruined, it burned up the traces. Shocked there wasn't a fuse in the area. Ordered a used one that I'll be re-flowing the connections on once it arrives.
There's not really much for pro's or cons, 1-1.5 can be tsop'ed, 1.6 can't, as the version gets higher the video encoder got progressively weaker. 1-1.5's can have their ram upgraded 1.6 can't. 1-1.5 can have iceberq pro 4's installed (if you can find them) 1.6s can't. I'd just say a v1 is the best, but really anything other then a 1.6 is ideal for every mod you could ever want to do.
i have a 1.6b that has the hynix ram and also the psu that has the issue with burning out in the spots indicated is the single row foxlink i have one that burned in same spot but i resoldered and its been working fine for 10 years
I have a problem similar my Xbox tries to start twice and on the third time seems to just start running with no video output and a red and orange flashing light this was after I took it apart to clean it and apply new thermal paste I put it back together and now it won’t work any ideas?
Ebay, niche forums/groups/websites, it doesn't specifically need to be a Phillips they are interchangeable, unless you specifically want a Phillips but I assume you just want one that works. Thanks for watching
I have one 1.0 with Philips drive and one 1.6 also with the Philips drive. Are they exactly the same drives? 2 years separate their manufacturing dates, that's why I'm wondering.
Yeah and if you aren't comfortable with the replacement yourself it makes sense to go for the 1.6's. Though I have seen the clock cap go bad on the 1.6's I believe it was a reddit post some time ago. Anyways thanks for watching!
I just got an original Xbox at the flea market for $10. It works great! The dashboard doesn’t have Xbox Live on it, so I assume it is the older version. If I update the system, would I get anything else other then the Xbox Live option on it?
Awesome deal! That used to be the norm 10-20 console plus controller, nowadays that's rare. But no I don't think you will gain anything else. At some point a newer game may make you do an update though if I'm being honest I don't even recall there being one lol.. the ones I use I immediately mod, thanks for watching!
I had a hitachi, had to rebuild it to adjust the lazar, bunch of hidden parts fell out, no diagrams to help put back together. Short to say five minutes later it was in a million pieces like the office space
NIce video, But I got a question I got a v1.0 based on your video. I was looking to replace them psu. Its a 110v no my question is would it be possible to swap replace it with a 220v without any issues??
found my old xbox after it sitting in storage for 15 years, it was soft modded a long time ago, looks to be a 1.6b with hynix chip and xbox logo. should i bother with hardmod or just RGH my 360 and get an emulator? P.S. Power supply is 2 row delta but different version than whats in the video, im assuming since the box is 1.6b its newest revision.
Yes people swap in the heatsink from later revisions as an upgrade. If you're talking about the heatsinks fan no it won't attach to the newer heatsink, but I suppose you could still put it there if you want.
Sitting here with xbox guts all over the table. I've got 3 to try and fix so this is immensely helpful. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Very grateful 👍
WOW thanks for sharing the info on the power supplys, the xbox I had as a kid didn't go up in flames but the smell was awful and it was all burnt around the power socket, i guess I had that bad power supply haha.
Haha yeah scared the crap outa me, fortunately fixing the power supply before that happens is actually really easy just need to reflow the large solder points on the power supply... Anyways thanks for the story and thanks for watching!
Hitachi drives are bullet proof. Only reason why samsung had the rep for being best at the time is most people never had an xbox with the hitachi drive as it was late in production and are quite rare.
Thanks for sharing that, given that info I would also assume most modders steered clear of 1.6 and 1.6b's because they weren't the best and Hitachis where probably mainly in those revisions? I have more dead samsung drives then anything else. And if they aren't dead they usually stick, definitely not a huge fan of them but the sticking is an easy fix for what thats worth.
I have a version 1.6b of the Xbox It was manufactured in 09/08/2004. And it was Shipped with the Phillips Dvd drive(which is a pretty good drive for the original Xbox) I brought this Original Xbox at Amazon for 74.99 in February 2019
-----> :IMPORTANT TO EVERYONE WITH AN ORIGINAL XBOX 6:08 Look at how two of the capacitors are literally bulging out the top with the liquid inside coming out. EVERYONE who has an original Xbox should make sure their Xbox isn't ruined by this. The Capacitor Plague! If ANY of the acid comes out of the capacitors and leaks onto the board, this WILL eat through the board and destroy traces causing the Xbox to fail. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND opening your Xbox to make sure no capacitors are bulging or have exploded acid onto the board.
Yeah it's definitely something to look for, the whole clock capacitor issue is definitely becoming more and more common knowledge. But as you mentioned it is possible for other capacitors to fail and as the console gets older more will fail definitely something to keep an eye on.
$10-20 console only, $30-40 complete fully working with at least one controller, that's my thoughts, I don't like to pay more then $2 a game, $10 first party controllers, obviously I'd go up for certain things
Yeah I'm cheap but only because I have about 6 working ones around 8 for parts ones , but expect to pay more most people tend to charge eBay prices, but I love the ogx always have so I'd recommend picking one up
I know you must have a lot of people watching this but I got a big question. Once everything calms down, I plan to go to multiple Goodwill's and stores to see if there is anything OG Xboxs laying around since most of my city seems to donate them to Goodwill. What is the best version and most importantly, the most reliable regarding the PSU?
Iv only managed to find one ogx at a goodwill, but I know other people find them like crazy but anyways.. As far as the best power supply.. I wouldn't really say that one is better then any of the others, one thing to keep in mind is there are single rows then double rows, the double rows for a 1.6 which won't work in any other versions (at least not without re-wiring) there are ones that output a few more volts, but iv used most of them and I have put a bunch of stress on them with LED's, fans, lcds ect (if you have seen my latest video you know what I'm talking about) and haven't had any issues. The one currently in my build is a 2 row delta. I would say the big thing as far as reliability goes is just making sure that those big big solder connections on the connector are good, and to always hook it up to a surge protector. Iv never had another xbox power supply fail on me aside from the one when I was a kid.
Your vids are very informative. One of the reasons I never got into the og xbox mod scene was because the og xbox controllers were not as responsive as the playstation or nintendo remotes. Are you able to do a mod to use 360 controllers or playstation controllers on an original xbox? I would love to see you do that mod with your led ps remote. Thanks
i have seen talk of people wanting to get the wireless xbox 360 controllers to work, but there really is no simple solution for it. dont quote me on this but they handle data differently then the OG controllers. something custom could probably be made (to handle the conversions) but im unsure if any one who could, actually would. iv never noticed the controller lag as a kid but compared to modern xbox one controllers its definitely there..... especially with the wireless but on wired controllers its relatively minimal. its been a little while since i last played something that required precision on the og xbox. but i appreciate the comment thanks for checking out my channel!
Thanks a lot, the feel is also better on the playstation remotes, more ergonomic / smaller, I think. Thats why the 360 remote was so much better than the original xbox. Also, heads up, I emailed you about a project I'mm working on for an original xbox if your still offering you assistance to people. Thanks again for the reply
yeah i had both consoles as a kid and i was definitely an xbox fanboy lol but i can see where you are coming from. cool, i will check my email (thanks for telling me because it logged out and wasn't getting any alerts) and get back to you there.
I wouldn't recommend a softmod at all unless your just doing it to do a TSOP flash. As the console ages so does the harddrive. But if your set on just a softmod then I suppose going with the newest is best so a 1.6b
Got an original Xbox with a 2-row power connector and a Conexant video chip - not sure whether it's a v1.2 or a v1.3. Unfortunately has a Thomson drive, they are as bad as people say - rather flaky and struggles to read some retail discs. Managed to remove the clock cap before it went postal on the board fortunately.
Probably a 1.3, glad to hear that you got the clock cap out, yeah I have one as well that's not great it will read some disc's but the amount of scratches doesnt seem to matter to it. A Samsung that reads everything but is always stuck, iv cleaned it, it just refuses to open when in a console so it's a work bend drive now, then I have a Phillips which is perfectly working so that's nice lol. Thanks for watching
I've got two pal xbox og and last one I just bought was the very first wave of 2002, coming with the duke controller. Its got a thompson drive I gather, and it has trouble reading discs. I havent ever replaced a drive there's no soldering involved? Also to bumb the resolution in the pal version, can there be a change made within the console itself once its open. Regards
There is no soldering required to change out the dvd drive, just 2 wires and 2 screws hold it in place. You can switch video modes within software. But that requires a softmod or a hardwood. I'm not aware of anything on the hardware level to force ntsc. Hope that helps thanks for watching!
A mistake was made in telling if you have a v1.4 or a v1.5 you need to measure pin 2. I showed pin 1 also you could measure pin 9 while the console is powered on. it should be 3.3v if not it's most likely a 1.5. though there is alot of speculation around the existence of the 1.5 so who knows. wish I would have caught my mistake way earlier.
I found my Xbox on the thrash and silly me brought it home, after like 5 minutes i learned my mistake... it had an infestation of roaches!! i had to quickly bring the spraycan. I spent like 3 hours of cleaning two coats of roach shit and killing the buggers. When i checked the PSU and it had some sort of "Fuse" covered by plastic, after scraping the plastic covering the fuse, it looked like it had blown. So i made a small bridge between both ends and put it together. My Xbox motherboard has much less capacitators. I tried searching for videos and screenshots of my motherboard but none of the 100+ screenshots that i found seem to match the motherboard that i got. I could not even find the Clock cap... now you mentioned an Xcalibur video chip, it seems that i have that, and that would mean i have a v1.6? The xbox came with a Samsung DVD Drive, an 8GB HDD Western Digital and the PSU which says Delta.
After a couple days i ordered the AV Cables, two controllers and a power cord, since whoever threw didn't got rid of those. The XBOX workd perfectly after cleaning it and bridging the PSU fuse. I want to get a new Fuse but there is absolutely zero info regarding the Fuse Voltage/Amp. When i launched the Xbox I noticed it had a TON of Emulators ranging from NES, SNES, N64, Sega Master/Genesis and MAME.
I thought 1.6 was hard to softmod, but i can't seem to find any sort of chip installed to the motherboard. I am also trying to update the softmod launcher but i know very little about such things. For now, everything works perfectly and i am kinda getting attached to this roachy xbox console.
@@EtaYorius roachxbox
softmod is as easily done on a v1.6 as on any other versions.
ram upgrade and a tsop flash are not possible on a v1.6
a modchip can be mounted but requires some soldering to get it working.
@Steve Underwood the pins are on the LPC header, if you google "xbox LPC pinout" you should be able to find a pinout to aid you. thanks a bunch its much appreciated!
@@EtaYorius use component cables
I really appreciated the kernel to version chart @5:57. This is extremely helpful in determining the version since you can even get this information directly from the dashboard (in settings) after powering on the XBOX without having to even disconnect it! Thanks for this!
Happy to help, but just checking via that method isn't 100% accurate, but thanks for watching
This video is making me realize, how into XBOX and gaming I was.
Extremely.
(I bought a power supply for the thing, after mine was showing weakness in some way.
Haha well you weren't alone. Thanks for watching!
Yo my xbox turned off randomly last night while I was on underground lmao I thought it broke but the power cable was making a weird hiss noise so changed it with my other one and no issues now hahahaha
Huh, I was surprised to find that mine's a 1.6, as I'd softmodded it a while ago without any issues and was under the impression that you couldn't softmod a 1.6 without some hardware mods, but hey I'm not complaining. Thank you for your awesome OG Xbox videos, it's nice to see such passion for this old beast.
Yeah all Xbox versions can be softmodded no problem. The 1.6 just doesn't have a Tsop chip like the others so in order to hardmod it needs a modchip. The LPC also needs to be rebuilt Microsoft was trying to fight the modders but in the end didn't do to much. I really appreciate you saying that! Alot of them are pretty old now, have a few iv been working on but the process has been slow
When you mod it says what version you got asswipe
@@at-cj2iy that's incredibly rude. No need for calling names. Try to be more civilized.
@@TechnoOnTop Doesn't hardmod by definition mean there's a modchip?
@@deoxal7947 sorta, the v1-1.4 can be TSOP flashed, which is essentially a hardmod. If it's a 1.6 then it would need a modchip to be hardmodded
the original Microsoft Xbox was a great console
@Nathaniel Smith totally dude
Nathaniel Smith specs aren’t everything. It’s about the games. The games were amazing on that console, and you rarely see that type of creativity anymore.
@Nathaniel Smith the fuck?
Very underrated
@Nathaniel Smith the Xbox was badass. Go fuck yourself!
A channel dedicated to all original Xbox that's freaking great man. Subbed at finger twisting neck breaking speed.
Haha thank you it's much appreciated, wouldn't say it's dedicated to just og Xbox but it's definitely my favorite console to mess around with
What a comment lol. Agreed.
I do have to say I’ve seen some quite interesting things with the Xbox’s I’ve owned. Mostly later Xbox’s with earlier parts. Like a late 1.4 with a Phillips that had a metal cover on the front assembly. Or even a 2 row Foxlink off of a parts 1.3 I own. Both of which are very reliable which I find quite interesting.
Haha yeah never know what you're going to get especially if they have been opened prior. Once I start going through my stack to make working xboxs who knows what mis match of parts will be used. Thanks for sharing and thank for watching!
I've had all 4 disc drives. The Hitachi worked well, but it was a bit noisy mechanically. There were actually two version of the Samsung drive. The first version was the best one. The second version did not read CD-R nearly as well. There's a very small subtle difference to the disc tray as well that you can check to determine which version you had.
Interesting, what year (or years) were the models with the better Samsung disc drive??
Thanks to your video I was able to discover my cousins Xbox from childhood was a v1.0 with a Delta 1-Row PSU (I'm shocked it hasn't caught fire after all these years), 10mb Seagate hard drive, and a Thompson drive which indeed is terrible and had more issues running the GTA games than anything else. After taking his to soft mod it, I replaced his with a v1.6 so he could still had an Xbox, it happened to have a Hitachi drive, and I can also confirm it definitely loaded faster after comparing with the v1.0.
my v1.0 xbox has trouble running gta san andreas. sometimes I get a disc read errror. is the thompson drive causing this
I'm looking for a birthday present and doing some research. This was extremely helpful and I learned WAY more about XBox Original than I will ever use (who knows?) Thank you so much! (Also as a bonus, you're voice is nice and really easy to listen to!)
I'm happy to hear that the video was helpful. haha, yea you never know when a bit of OG Xbox knowledge will come in handy. well, thank I'm glad that im easy to listen to.... recording voiceovers is my least favorite part of making videos. i appreciate the comment good luck with your b-day present hunt!
I bought a OG Xbox at an estate sale few weeks ago. According to your video I believe I have a 1.6b. Opened it up to clean and it has everything you said that a 1.6b would have. Unfortunately I have to troubleshoot it because it won’t display video but it does turn on. Also disc drive is broken as well. Hope I can restore it.
This video is the reason I found out the Xbox I've had for the last 18 years is a 1.6b. I have the Xcalliber encoder chip and the Hynix ram modules. The manufacture date is 2005/04/25 which means it was one of the last consoles off the production line. I think there were fewer than 4 months of consoles produced after mine.
Edit: my power supply doesn't resemble any of those either. Want me to send you a picture of mine?
Found this helpful with identifying the 2 xboxes I just got today, both of which have had the manufacturing date on SN rubbed off. I will likely come back to this vid in the future, so thanks for sharing!
I absolutely loved the video about the XBOX revisions, its nuts on how many revisions of parts they had as well. I own a Hitachi DVD drive in my Xectuer chipped 1.6. The drive sounds like a Hitachi from a XBOX 360. But in all fairness its the best drive from my experience with drives. Samsung and Toshibas I had struggled with loading burned discs, I have had both variants of the Phillips drives burn out on me. I had a Thomson that had the motor for the laser stops. But I never had an issue with my Hitachi drive. :D With the HDD's The first one that were inside was the Seagate U Series 5 10GB with then the first 8GB HDD. Then another WD came out which has 8GB same capacity. Then the Seagate X series came out with 10GB. Weirdly enough both WD's were 8GB. Might be wrong but I got two WD's similar from the video and if you look at the model they are both have the 8GB Capacity model number. (WD80???). Hope this was interesting to read. :D
It is crazy, I will say the Ps2 had alot more variations through its life cycle, which definitely makes the Xbox a more simple to mod/fix console. Thanks for sharing your experience with DVD drives it definitely helps others and me give better recommendations when I'm asked, course no drive is perfect really just depends on how well it was treated. I won't put anything other then perfect disc's in any of my consoles. as it stands now I have a working Phillips, a Thomson that barely works, a Samsung that works fine but the tray always gets stuck. And maybe some others I still have a few Xboxs on the shelve that I haven't gotten around to messing with (probably should because of the clock cap)
@@TechnoOnTop Glad to know that I am a help to others. Yeah to be fair, I have heard that Hitachi's have issues with lasers but personally I have never had a issue. Honestly, I believe its the more that the drive is used the easier it is for it to fail. Its like a car, as long as its mantained, it will be a strong runner :P The PS2 varients are complicated. I have the first gen of pal units. SPCH-30003 but it runs lovely. :D Had a SCPH 50003 but it did not last long at all. :P
Thanks for this, my Xbox GFCI power cord just started popping and I wasn't sure why. This along with other videos I watched really helped me figure out my next step.
With the info in this video i was able to pick up a 1.6 samsung ram motherboard system with a hitatchi disc drive and a seagate hard drive (eew seagate.) after a quick look everything seems to be in order, the clock capacitor is a gold one and shows no sign of damage, the power supply is a delta brand and uses jumper wires from the plug port to the pcb to reduce stress. All looks well and good. thanks for the help! :)
Happy to hear everything is in order! Thanks for watching happy modding!
Mine is probably a v1.6 or 1.6b - 2005-07-14.
I'm not into modding or anything, I was just checking after hearing about the cheap clock capacitor leaking onto motherboards in older models. Glad that I won't be needing to replace it.
Cool happy to help! The date isn't 100% but you know that, thanks for watching!
@@TechnoOnTop Yeah, God help me if I tried to open it up and see. Factory code is 05 if that counts for anything. Thanks.
Thank God I have a 2005 1.6 model. I really didn't want to have to open it up.
Those Caps @6:14 XD. Great video, very informative and easy to follow.
Definitely rusty, I used junk parts boards in this video, but thank you for checking out the video much appreciated!
the samsung drives used ferrofluid on the lens servo which over time collected dust and turned into a thick paste breaking drives ability to focus.Though they worked the best they also lasted the shortest. Therefor I only used them to dump dodgy discs and rest of the time stored them in antistatic bags
I didn't know that thanks for sharing. Do you think the paste could be cleaned off to fix them? Then use another electronic grease on the servos instead?
5:57 you've put the column headers the wrong way round, it should be version on the left and kernel on the right
Awesome awesome awesome video, very comprehensive and i feel like i can buy that stack of 3 xboxes for 30$ from ebay now ..... errr if its still there, however very inspiring and i do see myself grabbing one of these to mod, looking forward to more content ( maybe a build series?? where you piece together the " best " components and create something fancy ) anything you do will be interesting to watch as has been my experience with your channel so far. :D
wow! 3 for $30 if that includes shipping that's a steal of a deal! I bought a stack of 8 awhile ago I think I paid like $110. I say go for it modding is a fun hobby and the OG xbox is a great platform to learn on. definitely more to come iv been working on a few projects have considered trying to do some type of build series. but need to work out some type of rig to make getting the footage a bit easier, anyways I appreciate your comment and glad to have you aboard!
TriniRogue Well there's original XBOXES out there for like 5$-10$ literally but those are usually one the have stuck disc tray or bad parts but I don't mind I'll buy them then, refurbish/fix them and either mod em for me or sell em just refurbish or modded (/either/both one).
In my experience EBay is the worst place to buy an OG Xbox on the cheap. Most are $60 bucks or less but when compared to thrift store prices, it's expensive.
Youre a liar. Xbox's sell for like at least 50 dollars a piece.
Dude, you had the exact issue I am having with the caps. Excellent summary. I of course had to go through and identify every part that I had, per your description. 1.6, Toshiba CD, WD HD. However, my power board looks slightly different than yours, might be I am missing something though. Done rambling. Thanks for the excellent info.
Yeah there are some some different psu's even third party ones, I just showed what I had, since then iv seen a few different looking ones, thanks for watching much appreciated
The date on my xbox says its a 1.1, the serial number says its a 1.2-1.6, and the inside says its a 1.3 rip
Always believe what the inside is telling you lol. Was it opened before you took it apart? It's possible the inards where swapped into a different case. It's also possible that it was sent in to Microsoft for a RMA and they printed a new tag with a different date.
I've got to open mine again to check the capacitors and figure out why the DVD drive has stopped reading discs, was full of dust at one point but cleaning it out didn't help at all.
I'll look into softmodding it so I can enable higher resolution outputs. Good video, very informative.
Based on my console being from *2002* and the single-row power-supply, it could be *v1.0 or v1.1*
But the serial number being *'05'* means it could be *v1.2 - v1.6*
I've never been so confused.
Was the Xbox opened prior to you having it? If so it could of been swapped into a different case. Also if it was sent into Microsoft for service they may or re-printed a serial sticker with the updated date. If that's the case you should be able to see a sticker over a sticker. If not maybe you just got an oddball base the version from the video chip
V 1.3 new heatsink and no Fan no GPU. No extra PCB for USB (pada) and single connector for power GPU-XGPU A
V1.4, 1.5, 1.6 GPU-XGPU B
Just changed 18 year old thermal paste, boy was it in tight. Good thing is that I have kept the Xbox unplugged always when not using it so all the capacitors were in great shape :) this video was great for identifying my Xbox as 1.0 version
Yeah it can be a pain to remove the gpu heatsink, it's best to heat it up I use hot air but another way is just turning it on and letting it heat up, but that's good to hear, it's still good practice to remove the clock capacitor, but if you don't want to just be sure to keep an eye on it. I appreciate the comment! Happy modding!
should I keep my v1.0 xbox unplugged overnight
So based on the manufacturing date, my Xbox is a 1.6.
Hope It's still possible to swap the old HDD and clone it to an SSD after a few additions.
Yes it's still possible, I'd start with a modchip, thanks for watching
@@TechnoOnTop Awesome! Thanks Dude!
Check out the 1.6 mod chip video from MrMario2011.
A fast way to tell if an xbox is at least TSOPable and RAM upgradable, (1.0-1.5), is by looking at the AV output connector. 1.6 boards have a connector that shows some of its metal shielding across the bottom. 1.0-1.4 boards don't show any internal metal shielding. Not positive about the 1.5 boards cause I've never seen one. But it'll save you when you come across xboxs with the MFG date sticker wiped clean.
Whoa I never knew or noticed that. That's awesome! That's a great tip I hate buying an Xbox getting it home and it being a 1.6 lol.
Well done . Great editing and detailed information. Subbed
thanks,kevin! much appreciated as always
Very great video! It helped me understand so well!
And P.S. the "Thompson" disc drive is actually "Thomson" (no "P")
So my recently acquired OG Xbox, came from the same year as my Xbox 360. 😀
Meaning you have a 360 that will red ring anytime anywhere any place
Ive had over 25 original xboxes and BY FAR the samsung cd drives were most found to be failure prone. I do remember reading in multiple forums back in the early 00's that they were supposedly the best. I've actually found phillips and thompson to be quite reliable, phillips more so .
Great video, I used it as a refresher recently for TSOPing one of my 1.0 consoles.
Are you sure you're testing against the right pin for a 1.4 vs 1.5 though? You said to test between pin 2 and any of the grounds near the screw holes, but it looks like you're actually connecting your red lead to pin 1, not pin 2. I ask because I tried the same thing with my very first original Xbox, the one I literally spent my childhood playing Halo 2 on, and when using the pin you specify, I get the same results, but when trying what appears to actually be pin 2, I do get a resistance value above 1.
you know its funny, i halfway think what I showed was wrong... it wasn't me who came up with that test.....your right every console i test it on i get the same value.... so its probably misleading or maybe the console needs to be powered on? or like you said its the wrong pin lol ugh...i will say that that board is definitely a 1.5 but not based on that test its what the system information in XBMC says.. thanks for watching!
That is the thing, my results are the same going by your video, but my dashboards do report it is a 1.4 console. Other sources also say to test against pin #2. It looks like in your video you were probing pin #1. I bet if you did probe pin #2 on that console, you would be validated.
I noticed it's the same thing when watching the video. My results on my motherboard also support testing actual pin 2, not pin location 1. Thank you for commenting on that. I was starting to think I was the only one who noticed.
xb0xisbetter put your
BTW, you can also find the kernel version in the Xbox dashboard by checking the about this console menu in the settings.
The 1.5 I'd check the 2nd disconnected point to confirm.
+Steven Benson I wrote v1.5 on it after confirming it in the system information menu on xbmc the board is just garbage that since I have some Xbox fascination I have stored for years for no real reason . This was well before I knew how to use a multi meter, one thing that is strange is the 1.0 and the 1.2 I have that are broken also have there grounds disconnected. I need to see if I have a 1.4 and see if that test actually even works. Never thought to question it as it was a guide on the Xbox scene
It would be dope if you would do a video like this on the 360. Since it's had many revisions and different parts
Did you ever tried to upgrade the RAM on Xbox to 128mb?
yes I have actually attempted it twice, both times I tried to use used ram I pulled off other broken boards, both times it didnt work, always planned on giving it another go with a different tactic and using new RAM but haven't yet
i want to try the ram mod but my soldering tip is too big and a 939 tip is like $30, so expensive
wow $30 for a tip? my station came with a pretty big assortment when i got it but ebay has the same type of assortments for pretty cheap www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-Solder-Screwdriver-Iron-Tip-900M-T-for-Hakko-Soldering-Rework-Station-Tool/181633425710?epid=1055325628&hash=item2a4a32212e:g:04oAAOSwnDxUq2F5
holy shit thank u
+Dondonian no problem, get your mod on!
Back when the 1.6B came out. I wrote a program that basically has you select certain steps to find out which version you have. It should be on the old Xbox modding forum for the OG xbox.
Combination of several factors. Serial, chips, heat sink, fan etc. Then you could know what was needed to mod yours.
However now there is 1 chip that can mod any of them.
Yeah I remember it way back in the day on xboxscene.com
Great video, but I’ve got mine open now as I want to mod it. I have Conextant Chip, Samsung RAM, No Fan just a heat sink and a single PSU in the board. I also have a Samsung DVD drive and a Seagate HDD. The year is 2002. So what version do I have?
As long as it's not an Xcalibur video chip you can tsop it. Do you empty spots for ram 2 on top and 2 on bottom. But from what your saying. Go ahead an softmod then move on to a tsop
5:07 is that capacitor near the heatsinks swelling?also it isnt the only one i think the others near it are swelling as well
My Xbox has the Hitachi Drive, This is the first video I seen that referenced it. I only hear about the other 3. So I assume my Xbox is a late model. However. I will say the Hitachi works the best that I've had so far. I took back Thompson and Philips Xbox's already back to the retro store and I got lucky to have the rare Hitachi drive. Growing up I never Had the Hitachi drive with the two small holes on the tray and I happy I'm do now.Thank you for clearing that up for me.
Yeah there doesn't seem to a whole lot of Hitachi drives around, nice find! Thanks for watching
I have a crystal limited edition Xbox that is a 1.6. I restored it myself today and it looks like new!
Very nice thanks for sharing! Somone just commented a few days ago saying their crystal is a v1. 2.
@@TechnoOnTop i have an xbox crystal and can now confirm based on ram chip i have a v1.6b
@@johnproudlock2900 cool! i still have yet to run across one of those
Yes, Samsung drives were the best, iirc the Thompsom one used the same laser to read CDs and had several problems to read burnt discs and even a few pressed ones.
Samsung drives had a problem where the focus and tracking coils ended up soaked in some weird dark-ish goo that I had to clean several times.
Phillips drives where right up there with the Samsung ones.
Thanks for the input, I didn't know that the smasungs had that problem until someone else mentioned it. Makes me wonder if those Samsung drives I have would actually work if I opened them up and cleaned them.
If the console is made after 2004 is it fine to leave the clock capacitor ?
If the Xbox is a 1.6-1.6b leave the clock capacitor. Thanks for watching
I got a 2005 version why is the no HD settings when i have component plugged in could it be my tv or the Xbox? :)
The Xbox switches into its HD based on which pins are shorted through the component cable connector. In xbmc there is a setting. I feel like I remember there being some button combo to push but I'm unsure off the top of my head
the way to tell the difference between v1.2 and v1.3 is to check LPC pin 3 with an Ohm meter set on the 2000 scale. a v1.2 will get a reading, the v1.3 will be open circuit. v1.2s are actaully very uncommon.
Yus! I think I got a 1.0 or 1.1 model, the date said 2001-12-17
Very nice!
I got an original ps1 and ps2 but I ain't gonna sell me their from my childhood
One of the more useful videos on yt. thanks.
Glad it helps! Thanks for checking it out
i love the thomson! I have a hitachi but its trashed
+Dondonian yeah it's been a solid drive to me for the most part I've come across a few that don't read disc's and even one thats insane loud but it still works perfectly. Granted I have a working Samsung thats in my now a shell first modded Xbox
+TechnoOnTop well first modded Xbox I put on this channel.
laser pot tweak fixed my thomson
+Dondonian I forgot about that, thanks for reminding me!
I have an hitachi drive and it will not open the dvd tray
Thanks man! I now know that I have a 1.4-1.5 (it has a FOCUS video chip)! Now I can get the right version of the XboxHDMI!
No problem man! Enjoy your Xbox hdmi, I have also purchased one!
taking a wild guess maybe a 1.0 because of a noisy fan - i hope my house doesn't burn :/
except for that one i had as a kid iv never had that happen again, and its never happened to anyone i have ever known, im sure your ok for me it happened while i was playing tony hawks wasteland
Not a 1.0 i see 2003-11-11
Is the clock capacitor removed automatically with the 1.6? Replaced with something else somewhere on the motherboard?
looks like i have a v1.0
definitely my favorite version thanks for watching!
I have a 2003 july 6 model i have no idea what version is that
Who was president when you bought it?
Seems like I have an original 1.0, with a Thompson drive and a foxlink PSU too.. even though this console also came with a free leaking clock capacitor and corrosion all around that area it still works great!
Yeah the Xbox is a tough beast, iv only ever came across one that was beyond saving. At least from a leaky cap, thanks for watching!
nothing to do , opened up mine , and according to the video i have a 1.6b . lol
Either cool or not cool depending on if you wanted to hard mod it. As iv said iv never come across a 1.6b and iv bought a fare share of Xbox consoles of my years of modding. Thanks for checking out the video
Mine had a modchip installed to bypass the region issue , the perils of buying a pal console and using it in a ntsc region XD...
My manufacturing date is 2001, the dashboard kernel is on 4034, so I think it's fair to say I've got a 1.0. I'm pretty sure I had something newer years ago on my original box because discs loaded faster and it wasn't as noisy, but I'm sure those can be explained with age and dust.
Yeah probably just age, iv had some pretty noisy disc drives over the years, also on the v1. 0 the gpu fan bearing usually goes bad making it sound like a lawnmower, thanks for watching
@@TechnoOnTop Sure thing. Also, thanks for helping me out. I did a TSOP flash yesterday and just like I thought, I had a 1.0. I had a sticker on the MOBO and HDD with 4034 on it too.
@@TechnoOnTop my og Xbox was manufactured in July 2003 and it has a western digital drive, Samsung disk drive, foxlink psu, and the conexant video encoder. Is it a revision 1.3?
"Cone-zant"
It's pronounced "Connecks-ant"
Thanks for clearing that up!
@@TechnoOnTop tellem to shut it
Thanks for the very clear differentiations! Very informative ! I've got the excalibur chip with samsung memory, and its modded with a Duo X2 GS so it can't be that hard can it? I do wonder what the "switch" on that chip does though... if I informed myself right it's a dual bios chip and one chip works for versions 1-5 and the other for 1.6 and 6b, the swich is supposed to make those changes. I don't even know what mine is set at. Though I have one question. Isn't it so that the very first original xbox had a slightly weaker graphics chip than the later versions? You could see it by the (original, not modded) dashboard alone if I remember correctly. Not sure what the distinction exactly is but if I remember right from the days they were very much different. Any info about that?
no problem thanks for checking it out! yeah that switch on the chip switches between the 2 memory banks, it would be set on the BIOS specific to the 1.6's which is M8+ or some variation on that. i can remember reading something on that but i cant really remember the details of it.the Xcalibur chip has issues playing certain games at 480p... jetset radio future is one of them....there are a few others but im not sure off the top of my head.....they were probably other Sega games. or games made by that same studio.
It’s odd I’ve always played on the OG. I didn’t get tell 2010. I played it while I was at friends house. Now I’m hooked to the console.
I’ve asked this question in other places in the past hour or so but I’m still looking for answers. Clock Capacitor Question
I got my Xbox off eBay a few weeks ago and was made in January 2004, months before the 1.6 version. I’m unsure whether modifications were made or not, because the controller I got had the control sticks replaced with PS2 ones. Also my power strip keeps getting unplugged and whenever I boot up my Xbox after this it takes me to the clock set up, but if I power it off and on without being unplugged, it takes me straight to the menu or game. So could the clock capacitor potentially be already removed or not? I haven’t opened it up to check but I am curious for obvious reasons.
And by the way, I unplugged my Xbox, plugged it back in seconds later, powered it on, and I get the clock menu, but the stickers are still there.
It would seem thr clock cap is bad from what you're describing, you should really pop it open and get rid of it, so long as it's not a 1.6. The dates aren't the most accurate to go by. If it happens to be a 1.6 then you will need to replace the cap, but I'm doubting it is, no cap in a 1.6 puts the console into a boot loop. Anyways good luck thanks for watching
TechnoOnTop unfortunately I don’t think I have the right screwdrivers for it.
لدي اكسبوكس النسخة الاولى وقارئ الاقراص من النوع phillips ونوع اخر لكن النوع الاول يشتغل منذ ٢٠١٢ ويعمل بشكل سلسل
The best thing about 1.6 xboxes is that you wont need to worry about the time capacitor leaking.
For the most part true, I do think leaky caps have been found on 1.6s I remember seeing it on reddit I believe.
@@TechnoOnTop maybe the early 1.6 xboxes got it, and the later ones didn't
To be honest Thompsons are probably the best disc drives, My experiences with them compared to other drives have been superb
Yeah I haven't messed much with xboxs lately and even when I did my main was always a slim. But for modding I have a Samsung as it seems to always read the burned hexen disc.
cool video bro. I've heard Microsoft added a fuse later on (external Box with TEST button). I have that, but also others. You could have also covered what versions most likely are in a Crystal or the Skeleton (first grey one in Japan) or a transparent green one etc. That would have maybe helped also a bit.
I will maybe take a look at what versions or what CD I have with your reference. Pretty rad. I also have some modded ones, but not did myself.
Yeah they did a recall where they replaced the power cords. From what I read that did nothing to actually fix the problem. Iv personally never had one of the "fixed" cords. And I'd figure there aren't to many floating around. I don't own any of the transparent ones. Iv passed up a few over the years that I'm kicking myself for not buying... Oh well but thanks for watching I appreciate it
Old comment thread.
Are the recalled power cables worth more? I have one.
Microsoft sent me a letter, back in the day, about the recall. They sent me the external brick power cable.
I remember calling Microsoft back in the day and talking to that really cool automated system and getting a replacement surge protector for my first Xbox, unfortunately I lost it years ago
I do slightly remember having to call tech support, though I'm pretty sure I actually talked to some dude, ended up having to send my Xbox back honestly have no idea why, maybe the disc drive stopped working? All I know is it was a long few weeks haha. Thanks for sharing and for watching!
@@TechnoOnTop if you come across a few xboxs with bad cd drives and such let me know, I run a vintage computer shop and wanted to try rebuilding the CD drive using it's ATX counterparts.
On that, I've owned two 1.0 and 1.1 consoles with the single rail, more commonly known as AT style power supplies, vs the dual rain being ATX. I miss my old one but was happy I found another for $25 locally. I just replaced the clock battery and plan on doing a hard drive mod but keeping a stock interface
Im sure I have a bunch of broken DVD drives, I just kinda throw them in a bin all together, so not sure what's broken and what's not, most either struggle to read disc's or don't at all. Your talking about putting in different laser assembly? It would be awesome to find replacements for those would really help alot of people out
@@TechnoOnTop I have over 150 IDE cd drives, Im bound to have parts that will work. I just need the xbox drives now lol
@@killerkip1 wouldn't it end up just being the same problem at some point? whats needed is a source of new lasers that will work not just a random one from a random drive that also probably doesn't have replacements made for it anymore. i find it weird that not chines company has started making some type of replacement, considering you can find cheap aftermarket replacements for the ps2, psp ect..
Trying to figure what the Model Number: is for certain color xbox's so i can fix pricecharting listings for og xbox's especially the bell blue halo xbox
I don't have one of those sorry.
One thing that needs to be mentioned is the clock capacitor. Every xbox except for the 1.6 and 1.6b need the capacitor removed because it will over time leak onto the board and kill the console.
I have the 1.6 version.. do you know which xbox version needs a capacitor replacement??
OMG im so confused because I have the samsung chip with the the upgrade that does not have the fan but this console was made in 02 and the kernal sticker is not the just a serial number sticker I need more help I think I have a 1.1 but it has been refurbished will that affect my abbility to tsop mod the xbox origonal
I also have a conzant ship with no fan and single row power supply my ram chips also say samsung so also my consoles front panel button connectors are in the same place as a 1.6 but all the chips are in the same place as the 1.0 I also have a delta power supply someone please contact me we can skype call if needed to identify
My modded one (from a child) is a 1 it's got the fan on CPU and a failed Thompson disc drive, the other one I got has no CPU fan, Phillips drive which works and they both have leaky capacitor
I have a 1.1 here that has burn marks on the power supply connector, the board is ruined, it burned up the traces. Shocked there wasn't a fuse in the area. Ordered a used one that I'll be re-flowing the connections on once it arrives.
wonder how many OG xboxes are still around
Great video bro looove the original Xbox! I have a 1.6 with the hitachi drive it works great installed a 2TB hard drive with xbmc4gamers!!
it's definitely one of my favorites as well! Sounds like you have a sweet console setup. I appreciate you checking out the video!
Which models are the best and which are the worst ? Please list the different pros and cons.
There's not really much for pro's or cons, 1-1.5 can be tsop'ed, 1.6 can't, as the version gets higher the video encoder got progressively weaker. 1-1.5's can have their ram upgraded 1.6 can't. 1-1.5 can have iceberq pro 4's installed (if you can find them) 1.6s can't. I'd just say a v1 is the best, but really anything other then a 1.6 is ideal for every mod you could ever want to do.
Last sentence is backwards the single row deltas came in the 1.6-1.6b
i have a 1.6b that has the hynix ram and also the psu that has the issue with burning out in the spots indicated is the single row foxlink i have one that burned in same spot but i resoldered and its been working fine for 10 years
Thanks for sharing. I haven't had another issue with one since I was a kid.
I have a problem similar my Xbox tries to start twice and on the third time seems to just start running with no video output and a red and orange flashing light this was after I took it apart to clean it and apply new thermal paste I put it back together and now it won’t work any ideas?
That catching fire bit at the end has just put me off getting one to mod it 😂 Then again, emulation has a lot of blind spots when it comes to xbox.
I wouldn't base not purchasing an Xbox on that alone. Iv owned many xboxs and it only ever happened to my childhood one.
great video, do you know where I can purchase the replacement IDE Philips DVD drive
Ebay, niche forums/groups/websites, it doesn't specifically need to be a Phillips they are interchangeable, unless you specifically want a Phillips but I assume you just want one that works. Thanks for watching
I have one 1.0 with Philips drive and one 1.6 also with the Philips drive. Are they exactly the same drives? 2 years separate their manufacturing dates, that's why I'm wondering.
Unsure if both are exactly the same, there could be tiny revisions within that amount of time. But I wouldn't consider them any different either.
I just dug up my old Xbox from out of storage. Serial number sticker still perfect. MFG Date 2001-12-12... pretty OG, right?
That it is! Thanks for watching!
I’d still go for a 1.6 or 1.6b- The others all had that time capacitor rot issue,easy fix I know but a buyers beware
Yeah and if you aren't comfortable with the replacement yourself it makes sense to go for the 1.6's. Though I have seen the clock cap go bad on the 1.6's I believe it was a reddit post some time ago. Anyways thanks for watching!
I just got an original Xbox at the flea market for $10. It works great! The dashboard doesn’t have Xbox Live on it, so I assume it is the older version. If I update the system, would I get anything else other then the Xbox Live option on it?
Awesome deal! That used to be the norm 10-20 console plus controller, nowadays that's rare. But no I don't think you will gain anything else. At some point a newer game may make you do an update though if I'm being honest I don't even recall there being one lol.. the ones I use I immediately mod, thanks for watching!
I had a hitachi, had to rebuild it to adjust the lazar, bunch of hidden parts fell out, no diagrams to help put back together. Short to say five minutes later it was in a million pieces like the office space
NIce video, But I got a question I got a v1.0 based on your video. I was looking to replace them psu. Its a 110v no my question is would it be possible to swap replace it with a 220v without any issues??
You can swap in any single row power supply without issue, thanks for watching!
I have a v1.6 with a Hitachi drive. Will keep this for my retail games and buy an early version for modding. But I do like this one!
Sounds like a good plan!
found my old xbox after it sitting in storage for 15 years, it was soft modded a long time ago, looks to be a 1.6b with hynix chip and xbox logo. should i bother with hardmod or just RGH my 360 and get an emulator?
P.S. Power supply is 2 row delta but different version than whats in the video, im assuming since the box is 1.6b its newest revision.
Can i switch the fan to a 1.3 version and put the cooling sink from the 1.3 to the 1.0?
Yes people swap in the heatsink from later revisions as an upgrade. If you're talking about the heatsinks fan no it won't attach to the newer heatsink, but I suppose you could still put it there if you want.
Sitting here with xbox guts all over the table. I've got 3 to try and fix so this is immensely helpful.
Thanks for taking the time to do this. Very grateful 👍
No problem hopefully you can get them all back up and running!
WOW thanks for sharing the info on the power supplys, the xbox I had as a kid didn't go up in flames but the smell was awful and it was all burnt around the power socket, i guess I had that bad power supply haha.
Haha yeah scared the crap outa me, fortunately fixing the power supply before that happens is actually really easy just need to reflow the large solder points on the power supply... Anyways thanks for the story and thanks for watching!
My 4 Xbox are all made in 2002, all have the gpu fan an Thompson drives. Although 2 of them have been updated to lg desktop drives
That's awesome man! Be sure and remove the clock capacitor if you haven't already. Thanks for watching
Hitachi drives are bullet proof. Only reason why samsung had the rep for being best at the time is most people never had an xbox with the hitachi drive as it was late in production and are quite rare.
Thanks for sharing that, given that info I would also assume most modders steered clear of 1.6 and 1.6b's because they weren't the best and Hitachis where probably mainly in those revisions? I have more dead samsung drives then anything else. And if they aren't dead they usually stick, definitely not a huge fan of them but the sticking is an easy fix for what thats worth.
I have a version 1.6b of the Xbox It was manufactured in 09/08/2004. And it was Shipped with the Phillips Dvd drive(which is a pretty good drive for the original Xbox) I brought this Original Xbox at Amazon for 74.99 in February 2019
That's cool! Thanks for sharing and for watching!
-----> :IMPORTANT TO EVERYONE WITH AN ORIGINAL XBOX 6:08 Look at how two of the capacitors are literally bulging out the top with the liquid inside coming out. EVERYONE who has an original Xbox should make sure their Xbox isn't ruined by this. The Capacitor Plague! If ANY of the acid comes out of the capacitors and leaks onto the board, this WILL eat through the board and destroy traces causing the Xbox to fail. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND opening your Xbox to make sure no capacitors are bulging or have exploded acid onto the board.
Yeah it's definitely something to look for, the whole clock capacitor issue is definitely becoming more and more common knowledge. But as you mentioned it is possible for other capacitors to fail and as the console gets older more will fail definitely something to keep an eye on.
@@TechnoOnTop What would you say the average price is for an original Xbox?
$10-20 console only, $30-40 complete fully working with at least one controller, that's my thoughts, I don't like to pay more then $2 a game, $10 first party controllers, obviously I'd go up for certain things
@@TechnoOnTop That cheap for a good console with great games? I'm buying one!
Yeah I'm cheap but only because I have about 6 working ones around 8 for parts ones , but expect to pay more most people tend to charge eBay prices, but I love the ogx always have so I'd recommend picking one up
My power supply has a lot of this white glue stuff ??? What is that material
I know you must have a lot of people watching this but I got a big question. Once everything calms down, I plan to go to multiple Goodwill's and stores to see if there is anything OG Xboxs laying around since most of my city seems to donate them to Goodwill. What is the best version and most importantly, the most reliable regarding the PSU?
Iv only managed to find one ogx at a goodwill, but I know other people find them like crazy but anyways.. As far as the best power supply.. I wouldn't really say that one is better then any of the others, one thing to keep in mind is there are single rows then double rows, the double rows for a 1.6 which won't work in any other versions (at least not without re-wiring) there are ones that output a few more volts, but iv used most of them and I have put a bunch of stress on them with LED's, fans, lcds ect (if you have seen my latest video you know what I'm talking about) and haven't had any issues. The one currently in my build is a 2 row delta. I would say the big thing as far as reliability goes is just making sure that those big big solder connections on the connector are good, and to always hook it up to a surge protector. Iv never had another xbox power supply fail on me aside from the one when I was a kid.
Your vids are very informative. One of the reasons I never got into the og xbox mod scene was because the og xbox controllers were not as responsive as the playstation or nintendo remotes. Are you able to do a mod to use 360 controllers or playstation controllers on an original xbox? I would love to see you do that mod with your led ps remote. Thanks
i have seen talk of people wanting to get the wireless xbox 360 controllers to work, but there really is no simple solution for it. dont quote me on this but they handle data differently then the OG controllers. something custom could probably be made (to handle the conversions) but im unsure if any one who could, actually would. iv never noticed the controller lag as a kid but compared to modern xbox one controllers its definitely there..... especially with the wireless but on wired controllers its relatively minimal. its been a little while since i last played something that required precision on the og xbox. but i appreciate the comment thanks for checking out my channel!
Thanks a lot, the feel is also better on the playstation remotes, more ergonomic / smaller, I think. Thats why the 360 remote was so much better than the original xbox. Also, heads up, I emailed you about a project I'mm working on for an original xbox if your still offering you assistance to people. Thanks again for the reply
yeah i had both consoles as a kid and i was definitely an xbox fanboy lol but i can see where you are coming from. cool, i will check my email (thanks for telling me because it logged out and wasn't getting any alerts) and get back to you there.
So Which version (1-1.6) is the best to buy in 2021/2022 for softmoded specially ?
I wouldn't recommend a softmod at all unless your just doing it to do a TSOP flash. As the console ages so does the harddrive. But if your set on just a softmod then I suppose going with the newest is best so a 1.6b
Got an original Xbox with a 2-row power connector and a Conexant video chip - not sure whether it's a v1.2 or a v1.3. Unfortunately has a Thomson drive, they are as bad as people say - rather flaky and struggles to read some retail discs. Managed to remove the clock cap before it went postal on the board fortunately.
Probably a 1.3, glad to hear that you got the clock cap out, yeah I have one as well that's not great it will read some disc's but the amount of scratches doesnt seem to matter to it. A Samsung that reads everything but is always stuck, iv cleaned it, it just refuses to open when in a console so it's a work bend drive now, then I have a Phillips which is perfectly working so that's nice lol. Thanks for watching
I've got two pal xbox og and last one I just bought was the very first wave of 2002, coming with the duke controller. Its got a thompson drive I gather, and it has trouble reading discs. I havent ever replaced a drive there's no soldering involved? Also to bumb the resolution in the pal version, can there be a change made within the console itself once its open. Regards
There is no soldering required to change out the dvd drive, just 2 wires and 2 screws hold it in place. You can switch video modes within software. But that requires a softmod or a hardwood. I'm not aware of anything on the hardware level to force ntsc. Hope that helps thanks for watching!
@@TechnoOnTop all right, I'm no modder but I want to fix this one for an entire game collection. Regards