Gen 1 Coyote Timing Cover Swap and Chain Replacement -- Coyote Swap Bronco
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- Опубликовано: 28 окт 2021
- In this video, we are preparing a 2011 Gen 1 5.0L Coyote from an F150 for swap into a 1976 Bronco. The pickup engine is high mileage (300K) so the timing components such as the primary chains, secondary chains, guides, primary tensioners, secondary tensioners, and others are worn out. If you wanted, you could swap out oil pumps or oil pump gears at this time. The timing cover was swapped out to a Mustang style timing cover purchased at Power By the Hour Performance in Florida. Their serpentine system will be used in a later video.
To purchase the Melling Timing Kit used in this video:
amzn.to/3EmLg91
To purchase the Water Pump used in this video:
amzn.to/3EmNhSg
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#CoyoteSwap #FordBronco #PowerBytheHourPerformance 
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Awesome video!! Need to tear my engine apart and was worried about the timing but the info in this video will be my guide
Ya it isn't too bad if you follow the process and take your time. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to hit me up. Appreciate you watching and commenting!!
Nice job! Thank you, for the complete instruction.
My pleasure. Glad it helped. Have a great Friday!
Love this build!
Me too. Hope it goes well. 🤞
This was an awesome video! Thank you.
Glad it helped you out. Great engines if you ask me.
Very cool 😎 👌🏻
Thanks Patrick!
Thanks
No problem!!!
I have gen 1 heads and gen 2 block, only difference is gen 1 block used 13 mm head studs Gen 2 used 11mm , or vice versa but it works just fine(this is a twin turbo build w over 100k miles). The timing chain cover is the same. Even the F-150 is the same other than provisions for AC Belt tensioner.
Excellent info. Sounds like it will be a nasty powerplant!!
@@605BOLT thanks yes it is, it's been roadworthy daily driver 750 WHP on 93octane since 2017. Originally built 2015, rebuilt 2017. Can turn it up, w/ supporting fuel, over 1100 rwhp😁
@@bigmotoxer 😳 wow haha. I like it.
Hate to say it but my 98 mustang 4.6 L is riding on borrowed time. Theres sparkles in the oil when I change it. Im the 5th owner, id say it faired well considering what its been through. It still runs good, but it definitely could use a complete overhaul
Or a Coyote swap! haha. But ya if you've got sparkles its not usually a great sign. I have a video about cutting open oil filters. Its an excellent way to see just how hurt it actually is. Might help you out if you changed oil recently and have a filter laying around. ruclips.net/video/Tx1kq33sMwY/видео.htmlsi=pwXFVCxM0pSpjOzd
I would have changed out the vvt solenoids and the cam phasers since u were already in there
Ya that might have been a good idea. The truck seemed to run fine at during a test start but you are probably right. Where do you stop though? At that point, might have done mustang cams then too haha. 300K mile engine so I guess we'll see haha.
Would love to see this done on a 3rd gen
Haha me too. Gen 3 are nasty little motors. Process should be very similar though. But I've never done it yet.
Hello, I also had my secondary chain break on a 2011 f150 5.0L driver side. My question is, sense the driver side primarily chain wraps around the exhaust cam phaser and currently theirs no chain attached to the intake cam. Would I start by moving the crank to the 12 o'clock postion and then move the intake cam by hand/wrench to match the data matrix on the exhaust cam when starting the disassemble process? Please let me know if I'm correct with my understanding. Thanks
I would move the pistons so they are mid stroke (not at TDC), then adjust the cams to where they need to be, then move the crank to TDC.
Do you need cam locks to do this install so that your cams don’t move when removing the phasers ?
I didn't use any.
So I got a question I'm also getting the timing cover from power by the hour performance do I need to swap out to a mustang oil pump or can I still use the F-150 oil pump
I'm not aware of a pump difference.
16:01... best part 😘
Such a good boy.
Great Video, I have a 2014 f150 lariat that I think needs a timing chain job just because there’s a 2 sec rattle in cold starts, so u have any idea how much a job like that is going to run?
I really don't know what a shop would cost. I live in SD so some of the rates here are much lower than normal. That said, if you had to have a shop do this I would expect to pay at least 1500 dollars knowing what all will be in the way in a regular F150. There are lots of parts that need to come off before the chains can be replaced. Most shops will be able to quote you over the phone though if you call in. They can check their repair software and give you a good guess.
@@605BOLT How much was the Melling kit you used in the video?
@@OKstang77 not much. The exact kit is linked in the description of this video.
@@OKstang77 actually I just looked on the link in the description and it's 10pct off! Check it out!!
On the passenger side, one colored link on exhaust phaser side and double link on intake phaser?
secondary or primary? if secondary, yes you got it. Just like the other side.
For the sprockets, as long as those two marks are facing away from each other, then you're good to go. but to make it easy, do it the same way as the other side. Hope this helps.
How does the right side small cam phaser chain go on . 2 links to which side 1 link to 1 side .
I'm sorry I'm not sure what you're asking.
Timing passenger side cam phaser chains .
Same as driver side. The marks should face away from each other. Double link straddles one mark and single link straddles the other. Doesn't matter which goes where as long as they point away from each other.
Are you supposed to replace with new VCT Bolt ??
I'm sorry but I don't know what you're talking about exactly. Which bolt?
Did you end up using the thin metal spacer or just the plastic guide on the secondary chain tensioners?
If so, was it a very tight fit?
I don't remember a thin metal spacer. Sorry. Been too long since I did it. I don't remember there being any extra pieces when it was done if that helps you at all. Where does the spacer you're talking about go?
Did you have to make sure the engine was in TDC? I had to redo valves, pulled heads, then I cleaned off my pistons and now I put heads back on but I need to find TDC from everything I’m reading.
Yes always a good place to start. But with no heads, it's just up on cylinder one. No heads on to make it be power stroke or intake stroke.
@@605BOLT I appreciate your response. Thanks!
@@sojministries337 my pleasure.
How do you adjust it they are not both on top?
That's ok. If the little data matrix are not facing up, just roll the crankshaft a little bit of top dead center (so none of the pistons are at the top of the cylinders) and then rotate the cams so that they are facing up.
Did you check the rod bearings by any chance I know this is super late!
No. We didn't. We did start it for just a moment while it was in the donor truck. Sounded fine so we're going to send it as is and deal with bad bearings afterwards if we're unlucky. 🤞🤞
@@605BOLT With that many miles she seems healthy!!cant wait see this build once completed!!👍🏼
@@jeremyclemente99 thanks for sending good vibes and for watching!!!!
Was this engine making ticking noise or chain slap ?
Surprisingly no. We just had to change the timing cover from f150 to mustang for the serpentine setup. But then we saw the condition of the guides and figured we better take care of it.
I know this is a year later i found the video super helpful, my secondary chain on driver side broke, i followed the video step by step on how to replace but now it wont start, she cranks but wont turn over any thoughts? Could the timing be off?
Was something damaged when the driver chain broke?
When you say won't turn over do you mean it won't even attempt to crank or do you mean the engine is locked up? Or do you mean it cranks but won't start?
Not that i am aware of, i didnt see a bent valve or anything when i used a camera through the spark plugs and it starts to crank but wont turn over
Also when i intially took of the timing cover and looked at the data mateix on the driver side they were both up but not even but lined up when i went back to 9 o clock that may be where i messed up now with the valve covers off again the data matix on the driver side are lined up and facing up but the passenger side are facing the opposite direction. Facing up but towards like 10 o clock and the driver side is at like 1 o clock
So you're saying it spins maybe a handful of degrees and then locks up? Hard to say I guess what is oging on. If the valve covers are off, you could visually run through what is happening and when. You could see the cam lobes and also look down the spark plug hole with your camera.
No gaskets for the main chain tensioners?
None in the kit. Beings those are machined surfaces I guess I assume they make a decent seal. Not to mention the fact that the a small weeping leak would be no problem as it is internal. Interesting observation though. I know there wasn't any type of gasket behind the tensioner. Don't think there was even an O-ring. And also I think the 2V tensioners in my lightning are the same way. Metal to metal.
Spring loaded tension when not running
Right.
no wonder they do the phaser delete kits and upgrades, look at the size of those puppies holy smokes, you can get aftermarket that are a lot lighter, billet aluminum.. apparently the inertia wear form the weight of those doggies and put undo stress and wear on your chian, not to mentions rob you of response and power, reminds me of the hayabusa crank balancer, fookin huge and better off without...
This will just be a stock runner. No need for the fancy stuff.
When i rotate the engine my matrix data marks are on the top. pass and drivers side.
After you rotate it idk if things will continue to be lined up. Might take like 50 rotations or something for it all to line up exactly again. I just don't know.
@605BOLT I rotated it and they line back up top again
@@kingwrench00 I'll be honest it's been like two years since I did this video and I don't remember anything besides what is in the video. 😬
Did u fix this ?? If so how ??
@@golfatit3140 line the matrix markz up on camshaft
Did you change those dirty cam filters?
No I did not change any cam filters
@@605BOLT NOOOOOOO, I pray for your engine then bro. I've heard those filters getting clogged can cause catastrophic damage to that top end. Hopefully people are just blowing it out of proportions.
I found them while on FordPartsGiant digging for parts and was like wtf are these. At that point I had seen at least 10 videos on changing the timing and no one mentions them...
Hopefully she'll hold on til you get in there the next time.
In case you or anyone else is curious the part number should be 9L8Z-6C683-A
Started the engine just the other day. Shes good to go.
@@tyrannusspissamentum4423 you don’t need them things
Hey ! question. Since the tensioners were brand new and bone dry inside... (no oil) did the tensioner sorta let the guide "slap" back into the tensioner while rotating the engine the a breaker bar? I got new tensioners. And as the plunger on the tensioner comes back in it retracts quite quickly and kinda let's the guide slap back into the tensioner. Assuming because they were bone dry and obviously no oil pressure.
Ya that's how mine were. Not psycho tight. The oil pressure should tighten them up first start.
I want to say there is a ratcheting mechanism within but idk for sure on coyotes.
Okay. Good to know. It was kinda concerning , because makes quite a slapping sound when the tensioner let's the guide slap back into it the tensioner. But ya. Brand new. Bone dry. So obviously isn't gonna be very tough. I got a vid of it if I could send it to you? See if yours was similar. Kinda just had my sketched out lol. Haven't gotten it all back together yet so haven't started the car yet.
@@mustangman4valve me neither haha. Haven't started it up just yet. But I followed the procedure from comp cams and all my marks lined up. And it makes compression just rolling it around.
We're in the same boat if it goes wrong! 😂 But I think we're good.
Are those factory truck mounts ?
No they are coyote swap mounts for an early Ford Bronco from BC Broncos.
bcbroncos.com/shop/engine/engine-small-block/15-00731-coyote-motor-mounts/
@@605BOLT thanks I thought so but had to ask !
@@trey854 anytime.
With that many miles
Would have replaced those cams
The VCT solenoids
And oil pump gear , crank sprocket
The cams looked just fine and coyotes have bearingless cam journals. No need to replace. VCT solenoids perhaps if they rattle but thats an easy change after the fact if necessary. The oil pump gears are new (included in a new oil pump). The crank sprocket is just a sprocket. Shouldn't have seen much if any abuse in a 2011 pickup. Thats my opinion anyway.
If my truck needs timing can i use the stock guides and tensioners i bought a timing chain kit from O'Reilly's but came with the new timing chains but not the tensioners or guides was just wondering if i should buy the guides and tensioners as well
Was also wondering about the set you got and how it would hold up if I wanted a little more horsepower outta my truck nothing crazy but wanna do a air intake and tune and exhaust
It will probably be fine. Ours were visibly broken. Reusing guides is generally not done. Most people replace it all when they are in there.
@@user-vs5oq9hy3y those power mods won't hurt anything. You will be good to go.
@@605BOLT so I should replace it all to be on the good side thanks I'll order the same kit you got
@@user-vs5oq9hy3y that would be my thought. It sucks to get back in there just because you cut a corner. Buy once cry once type of deal. 🤷♂️
Does the engine need to be at TDC compression stroke when installing the timing chains.?
Thats what checking that the driver side data matrix is facing up is about. That is making sure you're at TDC before the power stroke vs being at TDC before the intake stroke. Hope this helps.
@@605BOLT so my problem is both timing chains broke and came off just wondering were I'd put the crankshaft position.
@@Relaxedraindude number one piston should be up then. Besides that, won't matter because the crank doesn't know where it's at in relation to the cams. To the crank, intake and power stroke are the same thing.
@@Relaxedraindude idk if thesw coyotes are interference engines or not though. Could have problems for you if they are.
@@605BOLT ok hey man I really appreciate it. Keep up the great content love your RUclips page!!!
Why rotate the crank? Why not just leave the key way at 12, and the crank gear mark at 7?
I was following the comp cams procedure. You would have to ask them.
You can do it your way, but don't be surprised if pistons kiss some valves.
@@Smasher-Devourer ya I mean you just gotta follow this procedure. 🤷♂️
Pelz you help me my I don’t now
I don't know the timing, its palaj aap baataa do m
Let me know what you're dealing with. Might be able to help.
You send me no
I call you
Pelz you send me no brother
@@jafirmotrsjafirmotrs2715 speak English
Basically same as driver side but reversed
Yes. Pretty much. 🍻
Sorry about the blank couple of seconds. Late night editing. 😬
Is the keyway at 12 o'clock TDC on the engine? Please 🙏 help
Sorry Deon. I just saw this. I do not recall where TDC was in relation to the keyway and whatnot. 12 o clock sounds right but the easiest way to know for sure would be to roll the engine over until you feel compression. At that point, raise the piston until you start to feel the air stop. I usually use a wire in through the spark plug hole to determine when the piston is done travelling upwards. When it stops, you are at TDC. Hope this helps you out some.
هل.اذ.اختلف.وزان.الجنزير.يسبب.تقتق
I did this job because the bronco the engine is going into requires a mustang timing cover rather than an F-150 timing cover. When we were swapping the timing cover, we noticed the timing chain guides were worn. The engine had 300K miles.
Pelz you help me I’m Mohammad Shanawaz from Dubai my problum Ford v8 engine pelz my answr timing sisytum problum
What is the problem that you have?
@@605BOLT I have Gariz ford car F15 models 2015 engine v8 timng marks problum parificate timng are you fe
@@jafirmotrsjafirmotrs2715 I'm gonna be honest I have no idea what you are trying to ask. Find someone who knows English. 🤷♂️
@@605BOLT yas
that engine has 300k on it and you pulled it out but didn't go thru the head and pistons? WHY? good grief what you aiming for a million miles? from what I understand the 2011 isn't even the best 302 on the road? some say the next 2 gens are even better, excluding current gen.. I guess it has a few small issues?
this engine must have been rebuilt at some point right? real good mileage if not, good maintenance... reminds me imma do mine early.. worth it I guess? an early $300 in TOTL tune up parts is worth getting 300k in my book or a chance of ... lil' ferd scort car has 383k + 64k and counting on her... she could use a long tune up for sure, all new emissions parts think imma splurge the $600 and go everything new, all emissions parts, injectors, throttle body, AIP, MAF, ATS, AIC, DPFE, EGR and control solenoid, VCV, vapor canister and control solenoids, catalytic converter, the works, all had around $600 . . . if compression is good i'll leave it, if not rings and valve lap or I rebuild the spare head... well worth it for another 400k miles at 35mpg.. + shes a wagon! she'll carry full sheets of plywood!!!! at least 10 sheets of 5/8s, roof rack too I can jed clampett that buggy all day if I need to... lol, oil changes are crucial, top liquids and filters . . .
ncie job on the ferd... good for another 300+ hale that guide had at least another 300 left on it
I don't pull pistons out of engines that are running perfectly. I don't care how many miles they have on them.
Shit the first coyote 302s are the best ones they’ve put in these trucks the 2015+ coyote 302s all have more issues than the 2011-14 motors. They also fucked up when they replaced the 6 speed transmissions with the 10 speeds. Moral of the story is the 1st gen coyotes are the most reliable.
They are stout. Plus it's just going into a baby bronco. No more pulling weight around for this one.
It's foolish to band-aid fix that motor. With that many miles it needs a full rebuild.
It has all new timing components lol. Def not a band aid. She's good to go
Its not an ls turd
@@fordnut4914 preach my man.
If compression is good why do extra work.
Some would say that. But knowing what it is going into (76 bronco) it will be virtually inaccessible. Therefore do it today and should be good.
What did you do when you bent valves after you didn't rotate the engine 1 full revolution to 12 o'clock after drivers side chain was installed. You missed that step and created lots of bent valves across the country.
The engine rolls over just fine. Idk what you screwed up but you can clearly see by the comments and likes on this video that it's the correct process.
38K views, 97.5% like ratio.
@@605BOLT I'm in the middle of one right now in my shop. our internet went out today and I can't get on any of our all data or pro demand working so I can follow procedure. I used your video and now when I go back 12 o'clock it hits a valve. So I got frustrated went to banner Ford and found out after you replaced the driver's side chain you got to rotate the engine clockwise 1 full revolution to 12 o'clock. Your videos didn't describe that particular step. So now I'm in the green the engine runs fine. I'm just pointing out that your video didn't show that step. I'm raging your video just pointing out it's not in depth enough and a little confusing.
Oh my mistake. I misunderstood you. Its basically a copy of comp cams' procedure if you can find that one.
@@605BOLT no problem wasn't hating just a little confusing. But hey I made it through it. 👍