Retired carpenter here. Lots of new types of hardware and fasteners available that was not around in the old days. Very good stuff. Just a tip to the wise; if you're going to be using skill saws and other loud machinery, use ear protection! Trust me, you don't want to get tinnitus like I did.
My father hung and finished drywall his whole life. He was also and avid hunter. I'll never forget the day (after many years of hunting & working together) that he handed me a set of earplugs and said "wear these at work and when you're hunting". He told me that his hearing had diminished over the last couple of years and he believe it was from the weapons and work. Thank God I listened to him, I'm 66 and my hearing is still great!
I'm already a master craftsman (mostly fabrication), but funny enough just getting into deck building. I'm always looking for new techniques, methods, hardware, etc. This video is excellent. You have a high level of attention to detail, and are a natural teacher.
I began woodworking as a hobby approximately four years ago. Consequently, my wife seems to believe I must be a master carpenter 🤷♂️. Lately, she has been eager for me to construct a small pool deck for our above-ground pool. After watching numerous tutorials on building steps for it, I must say that this particular video is by far the most informative and well-explained. Thank you!
I thank you dearly for your helpful videos. Most of the haters here are men and have no idea what it’s like to build something when you’re 79-year-old woman. I don’t mind buying adapters or hardware to make my life easier and still get a great built deck. Love your channel.
I appreciate all the feedback. I love hearing from people like you who are getting things done how you like it. That’s what it’s all about. So many inspiring people in this world.
I’m with you!! I was always the tool lady in our house. My husband just hated building or repairs. And now that he has gone, at 67 I still pull out my tools and get stuff done.
This video is pitch (no pun intended) perfect and step (no pun intended) perfect. If you are going to build a set of stairs watch this video and do exactly what Daru tells you to do.
If you found value in this video please leave a comment or like. I'm grateful for your support. The hardest part of building stairs is getting started. The template takes the guesswork out of it so you'll feel confident when cutting.
Excellent presentation on proper hardware and installation. I’m currently building 4-step stairs 10-ft long requiring 8 stringers for a customer. Stringers all cut and you helped me with adjustable hanger and brackets on bottom very secure and reduce from twisting. Code for me in Buffalo NY is 4+ risers need a handrail so I need to install blocking in the right places to secure the rails to top of Azek Timbertech treads.
Great video! Thank you. We live in a very rainy area and when we screw down deckboards, leave the top of the screw flush with the deck board to help shed the water, otherwise they get full of debris and water. They sometimes need a little tighten after a year once the wood shrinks after a season.
Hi, my father was an old wold carpenter. Everything you did is great. My father would not mark anything. Once you lay your square in place he would move it to compensate for the offset of the saw and was the square to guide the saw. Flip the stringer and cut as close to the corner again with the circular saw. Finish with a hand saw or , using the the claw on a straight claw hammer would remove the corner. Extremely fast. You mentioned the screw must match the hanger. Yes, however you can switch to stainless steel screws no matter what the hanger is made of. This does have an advantage, that when repairs are needed the screws will remove easily and can be reused.
The framing square can’t be a carpenter without one! I’m so glad you introduced our age old framing, square and the two sides of it with their proper names, the body and the tongue. As you probably know the building codes seem to get tighter and tighter after every deck catastrophe. Especially handrail, heights, spacing and post. I can see this in another video. When laying out my stair stringers or my rafters, always used a number two pencil, fairly sharp. Then the idea of cutting is to split the line. This cannot be done with a dull blade. Of course, we also use a Sawzall Or a very sharp 1 inch chisel to finish the cuts. This from a carpenter that’s done it all. NWR
Thanks for the tips! Having a sharp blade is definitely essential and cut through the line is good to remember. The framing square is well used. You can’t beat simple tools that have been around forever.
I'm a carpenter....we do it differently....we don't use #2 pencils...we use the FLAT big carpenter pencils with a sharp point...they do not break as easy as the normal #2 pencils do. WE either (1) Leave the line, TAKE the line or DELETE the Line...Here I would Leave the line so the extra width of the pencil will be visible.....We use GRK STAR screws all the time..they work really well...I use a NAIL between the Stair boards for my gap and I remove after the stair tread is nailed or screwed in. I try to use stringers that are KNOT FREE as I think it makes them stronger...
@@MitchMitchell-q8d Good tips thanks for sharing. I've used nails and screws too as spacers. Tried and true. Good use what you got thinking which is practical! Love the GRK screws too. Pro grade fasteners. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
Great detailed vid about something I have been putting off for a couple of years. You assume we know little to nothing about the construction of these steps and that definitely is me. Thanks so much young lady and all my best.....
Daru, I'm very fortunate to have found your RUclips channel! You've given me more confidence as a DIY, streamlining and simplifying construction and work methods, and just making things easier! Keep up the great work, and I always look forward to your newest videos! Thanks! 😊😊
That’s wonderful to hear! Thank-you for letting me know. Doing DIYs is such a great way to learn and build confidence. It’s a wonderful feeling to see what you’re capable of. We can all do so much more than we think. ❤️
Good presentation -good advice. I built my deck stairs 10 years ago which included a 90° turn halfway down. It took me forever because I didn't consult an experienced carpenter. I wish I'd seen this channel 10 years ago.
Nice. All the quality details: Solid layout, proper hangers, sealing tape, 5/4 treads rather than clumsy 2-by, which I see so often. Also the clear, succinct explanations. Thanks.
I'm redoing my deck and about to replace the stairs as well. This is a clear, straightforward video showing the viewer how to do it. Thanks! Keep up the great work.
Hi Daru, Thank you for making it so easy for the novice DIY'er. I have gone to Home Depot to buy their premade deck stairs however it still seems to be a little off. Your video really helps explain the process in making your own set of stairs on your own without any complicated tools or software.
Glad it was helpful! It’s good to try the premade route but it will only work for some lucky ducks. Templates are helpful and you can use cardboard too if that’s easier. This project is a big confidence booster. ❤️
Hi Daru, I really appreciated watching your tutorial. Quick tip, learned it from my grandfather, former career carpenter. He taught me to never cut towards any part of my body. When you were cutting with your jig saw, at least on film when you were cutting on the saw horses, it looked like you were cutting towards your hand. Also, you can use your drill to tighten the anchors into the concrete pad. Please stay safe! Nice job, I picked up some tips! Thank you !
Thank you. I probably won't be doing any more stairs, but I had to learn this when I did. It's actually not that hard, when you measure the treads and the risers and lay them out on the stringers. But it's tricky at first before you figure it out, and I ruined a good piece of wood the first time :-)
Thanks for sharing - enjoyable to watch. The butyl tape is a great idea I didnt think of. Ive watched alot of deck stairs vids and no one else mentions this added touch. It looks like you've built down from the deck some blocking boards to attach the stringers to - wouldve liked to have seen how you made these strong. Curious why no deck build videos talk about keeping the stringers - and any wood - from direct contact with the concrete. Isn't this an obvious place to invite rot? Cheers from Ohio.
This is a great video. We were struggling to get the whole project and this video is excellent. She gives you all the correct parts and fasteners, and all the tips to do the job right. Thanks a million
@@supersnoozer8518 That’s fantastic that you did that yourself. Well done! Thank-you for sharing your experience with us. It’s encouraging to see what you can accomplish on your own!
Great video!, however you have to take into consideration the riser at the top of the deck boards and make sure the thickness of the deck boards don't exceed the total rise of 7 inches to the first step tread, also the bottom of your stringer needs to compensate for the thickness of the bottom step tread to your brickwork or stringer pad, as if it's too short or tall of the rise there will be a tripping/loss of balance as your going up or down the steps to the deck. This also applies to stairs as well!!, also, check with local building inspector for modification of these run and rise measurements when building steps for senior/ handicap persons, sometimes a rise of 5 1/2 inches instead of 7 inches can be easier to go up or down steps/stairs without falling, tread depth stays the same
Great video, you are 100% correct about the fear factor. Getting started is always the hardest part. Stairs can be scary until you do it. Your explanation is spot on. I really like the idea of the template as well. Keep them coming.
Nice job on the video, living in the northwest I prefer using a 5/16 gap in between boards due to the amount of moisture here and also less fir needles seem to clog up the gap. Cheers from Oregon
No kidding! I try my best to say circular saw but it takes effort. When I say "circular saw" I'm putting in maximum effort. Good to know I'm not alone! :)
If you are already using structural angle brackets for the concrete pad anchor board, there is no need top notch the bottom of each stringer. Just put 2x4 "blocking" between each stringer. It makes the front edge of your bottom stringer less likely to have that narrow chunk break off. Pre-stain your boards on all sides BEFORE installing - it's way easier to work on sawhorses than crawling around for stairs, especially an enclosed short staircase like this where 50% of the board surface won't get stained if you install unstained lumber. Install from bottom of stairs up to the top to make your life easier, especially on longer stair cases. Those are the only minor things I would change about your method - nice job!
I like to make the steps quite a bit wider. My customers always seem to appreciate wider steps. I can do 21-inch wide steps and still have enough wood at the smallest part of the stringer, but I always double up the stringers when I do this, which also makes it easier attach good posts for a handrail. I also always install step lighting in the risers which is a code requirement in some places.
If I can suggest... I would use blue tape, vs the nuts.. Lol, the reason, some people will never use them again once they are done making the steps.. plus blue tape works great on wood and metal, with out the glue sticking to the product and great budget tool ;) Also blue tape works awesome for cutting wood or marking wood with out pencel or marker marks & if you need a line to do screws for beams you cant see under.. Just a few tips to help.. Hopefully 😊👍👍
Thanks Wayne, Tips are always appreciated and encouraged. We can all learn a lot from each other. I love good money saving tips because they practical and incredibly helpful. I learn a lot from people like you!
Plan ahead for "aging in place". My parents had their porch steps re-built a decade ago to have a 4" rise and 12" run. Now in their late 80's, with artificial knees and hips, they are so thankful they did that when they did.
Hi Daru. Thanks for this educational video. Has answered alot of my questions for building stairs on my deck. Only question i have is, i have an existing deck and building a new deck tier which is lower that the existing deck. how would you secure the bottom part of the stringers to the new deck tier? And how to plan for a handrail? Your help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Pro tip!! measure from the top of the deck along where the top of your stairs will be at both ends the snap a line and follow that line. Throw away the level as you can see if the deck is off level, @ 11:18 your stairs will look off level and looks unprofessional. Your eyes tell you when things are off level, and you can fool them if it looks even. You can even go the extra mile and straighten the deck if you need too!! Also put your deck boards tight as they shrink 🙂
Thanks for sharing your tips on stair building. If your wood is wet the deck boards can be installed tight. I'm not installing wet wood so that doesn't work here but can for our American viewers depending on where you live. This lumber has a lower moisture content. I like to use a levels, you'll see them often on this channel. If you have great eyes, go for it! Love hearing from you. Appreciate your feedback!
@@DaruDhillon Nothing to do with great eyes?? If you measure each side of the stairs and chalk a line, you will be even with the original deck level there for it will look even?? If you are worried about the level, then straighten out the top deck?? When one side is not even with the other side you automatically think it is not level. You can fool the eye by making the measurement the same at both ends. Levels have their place but, in this case, not needed!! Ok makes sense if the wood is dry to space it but if wet definitely install them tight just make sure whatever you use to install accordingly to whether it shrinks or expands! Here in Ontario Canada we use mostly PT or Cedar and is wet wood so tight is the way to go as it will shrink and you will easily get a 1/4" gap or more🙂
Best to always leave a gap. If you are using Mahogany instead of PT, you MUST leave a GAP as Mahogany expands and will seal tightly against the other boards. When it rains, it will puddle. This might not seem like a big deal but in New England, that puddle will FREEZE and become a layer of ICE! You want the gaps so the water will drain through the cracks!
@@MitchMitchell-q8d I'm talking here in Ontario Canada Where the most popular deck materials are Pressure treated or Cedar and yes, they are wet and need to be installed tight!! I can't speak for other areas but yes look into the type of wood you use and install accordingly🙂
@@MitchMitchell-q8d I am talking Ontario Canada where the most popular deck material is Pressure Treated or Cedar? This is wet and yes needs to be installed Tight!! Obviously check what kind of wood you use and install accordingly wherever you are located 🙂
Props for mentioning it at all regarding the bottom riser being shorter than the rest but I thought you might have spent a little more time explaining the reason. I thought you would return to it as you were installing the treads. This is without a doubt the most common mistake people make when first building a set of stairs. If you miss it and the deck is being inspected, it will fail, so it’s important.
Thanks for taking the time to comment on this. I'll keep that in mind for next time. It's a good point. You are right in that it's the most common mistake people make. Appreciate your feedback!
@@jerrycho9869 I appreciate the support, every view and comment helps this channel grow. I’m grateful to be able to do that. It’s thanks to people like you. So it’s my pleasure to say hi.
@@DaruDhillon i really do hope your channel grows. i don't know if you read my comment about canadians and the word 'out' but i looked through 5 of your videos to hear you say it lol. i guess it was not true but really? 5 videos to hear a construction person say 'out'? i enjoyed those videos too.
Daru, I thoroughly enjoyed your impressive straightforward design and level of Craftsmanship during the installation of your desk stairs! I am confident that I can build my desk stair steps on my deck! Well done, Daru!
I am liking your videos - thanks. In this video, at 6:23, I am wondering why you refer to your Milwaukee circular saw (as pictured in the video) as Skill saw. Do you have any Skill saws that arre not pictured in the video? Keep up the good work.
I used to hear 7/11 as limits to rise and run. Architects will almost always use 6 and 12 in buildings. If a person is't experienced with stairs always draw a picture with all of the measurements before starting to cut. There are several things that can cause problems such as in the video where you show the last riser being less because of the thickness of the deck boards. Riser thickness and nosing overhang has to be considered. Also there is almost always one more riser than there are treads. In this example the riser is a part of the deck itself but it has to be considered in the calculations.
Just a thought on risers before or after treads. If they go in first, if it rains and you get water on the treads, it can drop to the ground back there. Risers last and you might get standing water back there, wicking it's way between them. No right or wrong - just something to think about...
One small thing that makes a huge difference. Instead of using the Simpson screws in the joist hangers when fastening to the rim joist, I'd suggest using the Simpson nails. This will allow the end of the stringer to butt up against the rim joist, instead of being offset the 1/4 inch that the head of the Simpson screw pushes it away. It makes your structure a bit stronger and removes the gap for water/ice/debris to fill in, even with the tape.
Good to know your technique for installing hangers I’ll keep that in mind. Thanks for sharing your tips. It’s always helpful to hear what works for you. Thanks!
@@DaruDhillon It is what works for me, but also what is code. When the end of the stringer, joist, rafter is snug up against the resting/adjoining piece, it is sturdy and secure and won't move when the structure settles. When there is a gap, it does move.
@@jmackinjersey1 I spoke with the Engineer at Simpson, the manufacturer of the hangers before making this video about screw placement and this is based on manufacturer specifications. I understand you can choose either nail or screw. Curious why your code doesn’t allow it if the manufacturer recommends it?
Thank you for the amazing tutorial! The secret here to a successful stringer is the stair gauge. Just ordered a pair. None of the other videos I watched advised to use those tiny stair gauge. Now I know I can do kung fu! 😂
Great , showing all the steps! You didn't really explain how you set the height when you fastened the stringer connector to the deck. Important. I was prompted to click by the thumbnail. I didn't know what you were going to do with that piece of plywood in a stringer shape. Oh a template or test piece. Good idea.
I might suggest when you cut your first stringer that you use that as a template. That way all of your stringers are identical. The other thing that comes to mind was the first riser was not the same as the rest of them, this might be a tripping hazard. I did not understand why you did that. Thank you.
FRAMING SQUARE AND STAIR GUAGES‼️HOW MANY VIDEOS HAVE I WATCHED AND YOUR THE FIRST PERSON TO -NAME THE BIG RULER SCALE AD SHOW ME THOSE LITTLE MECHANICAL GUAGES CALLED STAIR GUAGES🤣‼️WELL IM GLAD MY SEARCHING HATH LEAD ME HERE TO THE SOURCE OF KNOWLEDGE!! GRASSHOPPER WILL SIT AGAIN AND TAKE MORE NOTES! THANK YOU!! To the SMIIIIILE THAT KNOWS!!
PS I SUBSCRIBED! Going to have to watch again-( learning so much! Now I know what my grandfather used that tool for! Checking the Overhang on his Brick Stairs he made! ( he and his Dad helped to Rebuild the Portland Head Lighthouse in Maine! WAAAY back when!!
Them screws that your using are for composite board, I'm not sure if they would work well over time with PT. I feel like they would pull through over time when the boards start wanting to curl.
If anyone has an issue you can always face screw with them too. Haven’t seen anything but I’m a couple years in. Proper installation is key too. You don’t want to over sink these.
Til now I ws struggling having watched several tuition videos. When I watched yours I stopped looking. Very good instructions and easy the keep up although you do talk a little quick, 5 stars from me
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the feedback. I’m always listening and your thoughts are encouraged and valued. Good on you for taking on this project!
Great video! Question - doesn't the offset of the screw-head (used to attached adjustable stringer bracket to ledger board/rim) end up creating a 1/4 inch "longer" run for the top stair?
After determining the "total rise", you then first determine the total number of risers (not treads) required. The preferable riser height based upon ergonomic analysis, is 7.2". (so, 7-1/4" is close enough). Similarly, the preferable tread "depth" is 10", plus a 1" nose (so 11" overall with a 1" overlap nose-to-tread). You should never allow yourself to "cheat" with regard to those dimensions as they have been proven through ergonomic studies to be the most efficient as well as safe in terms of avoiding tripping whether proceeding up or down stairs. "Closed" risers are also advisable since they prevent accidental tripping through when a foot slips through when climbing the stairs. For stairs constructed using wood stringers, rather than cutting (and thus weakening the stringers through the removal of "beam" depth and greater exposure of the wood fiber structure to eventual water and dry rot infiltration, it is preferable/advisable to utilize full-depth risers to which galvanized angle clips are attached to the inside faces to support the treads. Alternately, you can utilize 4x (thickness) wood stringers and mortise the treads (as tenons) into the inside faces of the stringers. When you mortise the treads in, you first treat the mortises with a waterproofing material (e.g., Henrys 208, or similar) and then insert the tread tenons. You can then screw (or nail) fasten from the underside by toe-nailing(screwing) at a 45 degree angle from the tread into the stringer, or (better) by using LONG deck screws through the outside face of the stringer into the ends of each tread tenon.
Nome of this is necessary. Cut stringers are fully compatible with building codes. And as for riser height, you're never going to be able go get that perfect 7.25 inch rise for every step. Your riser height will depend on your total rise, of which you have no control.
@@Wowzersdude-k5c Granted - cut stringers are allowed by building codes - I have cut/framed many hundreds of stairs using cut stringers. However, the application of cut stringers is best confined to interior conditions where adverse weathering and/or fungal infestation will not occur. Cut wood surfaces running across the grain are far less resilient to water and/or fungal infestation than are finished (e.g., SRS) or rough (e.g., re-sawn) running with the grain. As for control of rise, you often times have more control of rise outdoors than indoors via controlling the ground elevation, which oftentimes can be graded out/adjusted to improve stair design and construction.
What's are the requirements for the bottom and top connections for the stairs? How do you attach top of the stairs e.g. to the concrete patio? Do you always have to pour cement pad to attach the stairs on the bottom?
The requirement is to use the hangers in the video. In my area you can have a poured concrete pad or pavers. Check your local building code to see what’s required for your area. Thanks
Most of what I saw I already knew. The joist tape is VERY important and pressure treated does not mean it won't rot so anything you can do to slow down the rot ( water is the main culprit ) will reward you down the road
What fasteners should I be using for the stair stringer hanger? I have plenty of hangers, but do I use flathead screws to attach to the joist or it looked like you used a hex head screw or bolt on the outside connecting the stringer to the hanger.
@@Copperspd_382 the fasteners have to be the same as in the video. They are both linked in the description box. You can also use the nails that are listed on the stringer hanger description. The fasteners are galvanized the hex head screws.
At least an inch noising overhang for adequate heel space when building a deck. Cut the bottom of the first riser, ground contact riser, the thickness of the material you'll be using for your treads, if it's different from your decking material. Measure your overall rise at the point where the stringers contact the ground. If you understand how to calculate rafter lengths, you can use the same method to get exact stair stringer lengths and very specifically placed stair stringers, if needed.
Your tread lenght on the stringer is dependant on what you want you use for the actual tread and tread over hang. And your thickness of the riser unless your not using a riser .
Yes. You can enter all that information into the online stringer calculator shown in the video to get thoes exact numbers. Thanks for sharing your knowledge on this!
![OhGeesy x Lefty Gunplay - What It Iz [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/L0yzW9t2ixk/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent instructional video. I appreciate the no-nonsense approach and lack of intrusive music.
I appreciate you taking the time to let me know what you like. Thanks!
Retired carpenter here. Lots of new types of hardware and fasteners available that was not around in the old days. Very good stuff. Just a tip to the wise; if you're going to be using skill saws and other loud machinery, use ear protection! Trust me, you don't want to get tinnitus like I did.
@@guzzirob thank you for sharing your tip about ear protection it’s so important. I’m going to get on that asap. Very kind of you. I appreciate it.
And eye protection too!prevention is better than a cure
My father hung and finished drywall his whole life. He was also and avid hunter. I'll never forget the day (after many years of hunting & working together) that he handed me a set of earplugs and said "wear these at work and when you're hunting". He told me that his hearing had diminished over the last couple of years and he believe it was from the weapons and work. Thank God I listened to him, I'm 66 and my hearing is still great!
@@familymanof6169 thanks for sharing your story. It’s important to listen to those who have wisdom to share.
I second that. I always have worn muffs. The damage is cumulative.
I'm already a master craftsman (mostly fabrication), but funny enough just getting into deck building.
I'm always looking for new techniques, methods, hardware, etc.
This video is excellent. You have a high level of attention to detail, and are a natural teacher.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it! Very kind of you. You get to do cool work in fabrication. Love that!
I began woodworking as a hobby approximately four years ago. Consequently, my wife seems to believe I must be a master carpenter 🤷♂️. Lately, she has been eager for me to construct a small pool deck for our above-ground pool. After watching numerous tutorials on building steps for it, I must say that this particular video is by far the most informative and well-explained. Thank you!
Thanks! She believes in your ability and is lifting you up. My kind of woman. Enjoy the deck. Sounds amazing!
I thank you dearly for your helpful videos. Most of the haters here are men and have no idea what it’s like to build something when you’re 79-year-old woman. I don’t mind buying adapters or hardware to make my life easier and still get a great built deck. Love your channel.
I appreciate all the feedback. I love hearing from people like you who are getting things done how you like it. That’s what it’s all about. So many inspiring people in this world.
Get a condo lady! Time is up - no more building on this earth.
@@wizardmaster6639 building my stairway to heaven, one screw in bracket at a time! 🛠🪚🧰
I’m with you!! I was always the tool lady in our house. My husband just hated building or repairs. And now that he has gone, at 67 I still pull out my tools and get stuff done.
@@wizardmaster6639 You are so rude! You should applaud her for wanting to be active and self sufficient.
This video is pitch (no pun intended) perfect and step (no pun intended) perfect. If you are going to build a set of stairs watch this video and do exactly what Daru tells you to do.
Glad you found it helpful. Thanks!
Wow. So clever 🙄
Awesome job! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I will be doing this shortly.
@@edwardmccullers540 good luck with that Edward!
If you found value in this video please leave a comment or like. I'm grateful for your support. The hardest part of building stairs is getting started. The template takes the guesswork out of it so you'll feel confident when cutting.
Excellent presentation on proper hardware and installation. I’m currently building 4-step stairs 10-ft long requiring 8 stringers for a customer. Stringers all cut and you helped me with adjustable hanger and brackets on bottom very secure and reduce from twisting. Code for me in Buffalo NY is 4+ risers need a handrail so I need to install blocking in the right places to secure the rails to top of Azek Timbertech treads.
Sounds like a great project ahead of you in Buffalo! Good to know that you are doing blocking for your railing too. Thanks and enjoy your build!
I appreciate you taking the time to show me how to do it. It really came in handy.
It’s good to hear from you. Thanks! Hats off to you for doing this project. It’s a skill and confidence builder. All the best!
Thanks for taking the time to explain the ins and outs of stringers and the process. Great video.
Thanks Oscar for taking the time to let me know! It's always appreciated.
Great video! Thank you. We live in a very rainy area and when we screw down deckboards, leave the top of the screw flush with the deck board to help shed the water, otherwise they get full of debris and water. They sometimes need a little tighten after a year once the wood shrinks after a season.
Appreciate you sharing your experience in rainy areas. Always helpful. Thanks!
The best instruction ever, so simple to see it in action! Plus you are the classic example of the all-American beauty
Thank-you! As a Canadian, that’s a compliment. I appreciate all our American viewers ❤️
Hi, my father was an old wold carpenter. Everything you did is great. My father would not mark anything. Once you lay your square in place he would move it to compensate for the offset of the saw and was the square to guide the saw. Flip the stringer and cut as close to the corner again with the circular saw. Finish with a hand saw or , using the the claw on a straight claw hammer would remove the corner. Extremely fast.
You mentioned the screw must match the hanger. Yes, however you can switch to stainless steel screws no matter what the hanger is made of. This does have an advantage, that when repairs are needed the screws will remove easily and can be reused.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and tips learned from your father.
The framing square can’t be a carpenter without one! I’m so glad you introduced our age old framing, square and the two sides of it with their proper names, the body and the tongue.
As you probably know the building codes seem to get tighter and tighter after every deck catastrophe. Especially handrail, heights, spacing and post. I can see this in another video.
When laying out my stair stringers or my rafters, always used a number two pencil, fairly sharp. Then the idea of cutting is to split the line. This cannot be done with a dull blade. Of course, we also use a Sawzall Or a very sharp 1 inch chisel to finish the cuts.
This from a carpenter that’s done it all.
NWR
Thanks for the tips! Having a sharp blade is definitely essential and cut through the line is good to remember. The framing square is well used. You can’t beat simple tools that have been around forever.
I'm a carpenter....we do it differently....we don't use #2 pencils...we use the FLAT big carpenter pencils with a sharp point...they do not break as easy as the normal #2 pencils do. WE either (1) Leave the line, TAKE the line or DELETE the Line...Here I would Leave the line so the extra width of the pencil will be visible.....We use GRK STAR screws all the time..they work really well...I use a NAIL between the Stair boards for my gap and I remove after the stair tread is nailed or screwed in. I try to use stringers that are KNOT FREE as I think it makes them stronger...
@@MitchMitchell-q8d Good tips thanks for sharing. I've used nails and screws too as spacers. Tried and true. Good use what you got thinking which is practical! Love the GRK screws too. Pro grade fasteners. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
Great detailed vid about something I have been putting off for a couple of years. You assume we know little to nothing about the construction of these steps and that definitely is me. Thanks so much young lady and all my best.....
My pleasure. The template really takes the pressure off. You will feel so good once you complete the project. I know the feeling. ❤️
Clear and clean explanations ! Love no annoying music ! You got it !
Appreciate the feedback thanks!
Daru, I'm very fortunate to have found your RUclips channel! You've given me more confidence as a DIY, streamlining and simplifying construction and work methods, and just making things easier!
Keep up the great work, and I always look forward to your newest videos! Thanks! 😊😊
That’s wonderful to hear! Thank-you for letting me know. Doing DIYs is such a great way to learn and build confidence. It’s a wonderful feeling to see what you’re capable of. We can all do so much more than we think. ❤️
Good presentation -good advice. I built my deck stairs 10 years ago which included a 90° turn halfway down. It took me forever because I didn't consult an experienced carpenter. I wish I'd seen this channel 10 years ago.
You figured it out, I've been there too. RUclips is incredibly helpful, got to love that. Thanks!
Nice. All the quality details: Solid layout, proper hangers, sealing tape, 5/4 treads rather than clumsy 2-by, which I see so often. Also the clear, succinct explanations. Thanks.
Thanks. We think alike on the 5/4. I’ve always thought it’s a nice clean look for stairs.
I'm redoing my deck and about to replace the stairs as well. This is a clear, straightforward video showing the viewer how to do it. Thanks! Keep up the great work.
That’s great that you’re doing the work yourself! Decks bring a lot of satisfaction when built. Thanks so much
Hi Daru, Thank you for making it so easy for the novice DIY'er. I have gone to Home Depot to buy their premade deck stairs however it still seems to be a little off.
Your video really helps explain the process in making your own set of stairs on your own without any complicated tools or software.
Glad it was helpful! It’s good to try the premade route but it will only work for some lucky ducks. Templates are helpful and you can use cardboard too if that’s easier. This project is a big confidence booster. ❤️
Especially great video for someone with little to no experience building stairs!
Anyone can do this Susan!
Agreed. They have to be built the right way -mainly for safety.
Best video on the subject and I have watch many. Thank you for detail.
Glad you enjoyed it! Appreciate your time. Every comment helps this channel to grow. Thanks!
Hi Daru, I really appreciated watching your tutorial. Quick tip, learned it from my grandfather, former career carpenter. He taught me to never cut towards any part of my body. When you were cutting with your jig saw, at least on film when you were cutting on the saw horses, it looked like you were cutting towards your hand. Also, you can use your drill to tighten the anchors into the concrete pad. Please stay safe! Nice job, I picked up some tips! Thank you !
Great tip! I’ll keep that in mind. Safety is key always. Thanks
Great, clear, helpful information. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do Joe!
Thank you. I probably won't be doing any more stairs, but I had to learn this when I did. It's actually not that hard, when you measure the treads and the risers and lay them out on the stringers. But it's tricky at first before you figure it out, and I ruined a good piece of wood the first time :-)
Thanks for sharing your story and how you figured it out. You built your own stairs and not a lot of people take the time to do that.
Thanks for sharing - enjoyable to watch. The butyl tape is a great idea I didnt think of. Ive watched alot of deck stairs vids and no one else mentions this added touch. It looks like you've built down from the deck some blocking boards to attach the stringers to - wouldve liked to have seen how you made these strong. Curious why no deck build videos talk about keeping the stringers - and any wood - from direct contact with the concrete. Isn't this an obvious place to invite rot? Cheers from Ohio.
A very clear, thorough step by step process. Thank You 😊
@@Stargate555 I appreciate you watching!
Daru, terrific video, I am rebuilding an existing deck that wasn't built as good as it should have been, will use your tips! Thanks!
Hi David, I appreciate you taking the time to comment. It lets RUclips know it’s a helpful video. Thanks and good on you for fixing your stairs!
Thanks so much for this. I will be replacing the steps on my front porch. This was so helpful! 😊
You are so welcome! Love to see more people like you taking on this project. It’s a confidence builder.
This is a great video. We were struggling to get the whole project and this video is excellent. She gives you all the correct parts and fasteners, and all the tips to do the job right. Thanks a million
@@ronnorman4529 My pleasure! I’m glad you found it useful. I love that you said we. 💕
Excellent video! Really appreciate your attention to all critical details!!
@@robertsamagalsky1617 Thanks Robert!
Thank you very much❤ This video helped me very much when I built the stairs to the terrace I have at the back of the house.😊
@@supersnoozer8518 That’s fantastic that you did that yourself. Well done! Thank-you for sharing your experience with us. It’s encouraging to see what you can accomplish on your own!
Great job! Very sturdy and solid!
Thanks Greg good to hear from you!
Great video!, however you have to take into consideration the riser at the top of the deck boards and make sure the thickness of the deck boards don't exceed the total rise of 7 inches to the first step tread, also the bottom of your stringer needs to compensate for the thickness of the bottom step tread to your brickwork or stringer pad, as if it's too short or tall of the rise there will be a tripping/loss of balance as your going up or down the steps to the deck. This also applies to stairs as well!!, also, check with local building inspector for modification of these run and rise measurements when building steps for senior/ handicap persons, sometimes a rise of 5 1/2 inches instead of 7 inches can be easier to go up or down steps/stairs without falling, tread depth stays the same
The online calculator shown in the video addresses these differences but thanks for the reminder. It’s important.
Great video, you are 100% correct about the fear factor. Getting started is always the hardest part. Stairs can be scary until you do it. Your explanation is spot on. I really like the idea of the template as well. Keep them coming.
Sounds like we can all relate to that fear factor and pushed through. Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks
Awesome explanation!!! Even I could understand that! Thanks!
Thanks John! Glad it helped
Nice job on the video, living in the northwest I prefer using a 5/16 gap in between boards due to the amount of moisture here and also less fir needles seem to clog up the gap. Cheers from Oregon
Great tip Jeff! Appreciate you sharing where you are and what you’ve found works best. Good to know.
7 - 11 is the easiest way to remember the rise and run numbers. It works great.
That’s a good tip and easy to remember. Thanks for sharing!
That is how I remember it!!
certainly one of the best instructional video I have seen. Didn't think stairs for decks had these many steps in them (no pun intended).
Truth. There are more steps involved than many other projects.
Excellent video and I've built decks and stairs as a handy man. Great details too. Hi from the Lone Star state of Texas.
That Milwaukee saw is mad at You for calling it a skillsaw! Just kidding I hear that all the time at work!
No kidding! I try my best to say circular saw but it takes effort. When I say "circular saw" I'm putting in maximum effort. Good to know I'm not alone! :)
It's actually Skilsaw. Not Skill......
Thank you so much! My Stairs came out so awesome. You’re an awesome teacher thank you for your guidance!!!!!!
Well done Michael!! Good to hear that you built your own stairs. That’s awesome. Thanks!
I stumbled across your YT channel now- I ❤ it
@@martintheron1386 hi Martin, welcome! Glad you enjoyed the video. If I can be of any help or if you’d like to share your tips or feedback please do.
If you are already using structural angle brackets for the concrete pad anchor board, there is no need top notch the bottom of each stringer. Just put 2x4 "blocking" between each stringer. It makes the front edge of your bottom stringer less likely to have that narrow chunk break off. Pre-stain your boards on all sides BEFORE installing - it's way easier to work on sawhorses than crawling around for stairs, especially an enclosed short staircase like this where 50% of the board surface won't get stained if you install unstained lumber. Install from bottom of stairs up to the top to make your life easier, especially on longer stair cases. Those are the only minor things I would change about your method - nice job!
Love it! Thank you so much for explaining stuff I wouldn't even think about. Your tricks make sense in my head.
Happy to help! Enjoy your build!
I like to make the steps quite a bit wider. My customers always seem to appreciate wider steps. I can do 21-inch wide steps and still have enough wood at the smallest part of the stringer, but I always double up the stringers when I do this, which also makes it easier attach good posts for a handrail. I also always install step lighting in the risers which is a code requirement in some places.
Thanks for sharing your tips on how you build your stairs. Appreciate your perspective.
If I can suggest... I would use blue tape, vs the nuts.. Lol, the reason, some people will never use them again once they are done making the steps.. plus blue tape works great on wood and metal, with out the glue sticking to the product and great budget tool ;)
Also blue tape works awesome for cutting wood or marking wood with out pencel or marker marks & if you need a line to do screws for beams you cant see under.. Just a few tips to help.. Hopefully 😊👍👍
Thanks Wayne, Tips are always appreciated and encouraged. We can all learn a lot from each other. I love good money saving tips because they practical and incredibly helpful. I learn a lot from people like you!
Great Video, and easy on the eye as well! Thank You Daru! 🧰
Quite a bit of information behind building these steps and I’m learning. Great job! 👍🏻
@@UncleCharlie111x2 thank-you! It was a fun build. Glad it was helpful.
This is extremely helpful. Thank you Daru Dhillon.
You're most welcome! Thanks
Plan ahead for "aging in place". My parents had their porch steps re-built a decade ago to have a 4" rise and 12" run. Now in their late 80's, with artificial knees and hips, they are so thankful they did that when they did.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this. Good to keep in mind!
Hi Daru. Thanks for this educational video. Has answered alot of my questions for building stairs on my deck. Only question i have is, i have an existing deck and building a new deck tier which is lower that the existing deck. how would you secure the bottom part of the stringers to the new deck tier? And how to plan for a handrail? Your help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
This woman knows how to teach.
Very cool. My ideal soulmate!
Thanks Bill, glad you enjoyed it!
Pro tip!! measure from the top of the deck along where the top of your stairs will be at both ends the snap a line and follow that line. Throw away the level as you can see if the deck is off level, @ 11:18 your stairs will look off level and looks unprofessional. Your eyes tell you when things are off level, and you can fool them if it looks even. You can even go the extra mile and straighten the deck if you need too!! Also put your deck boards tight as they shrink 🙂
Thanks for sharing your tips on stair building. If your wood is wet the deck boards can be installed tight. I'm not installing wet wood so that doesn't work here but can for our American viewers depending on where you live. This lumber has a lower moisture content. I like to use a levels, you'll see them often on this channel. If you have great eyes, go for it! Love hearing from you. Appreciate your feedback!
@@DaruDhillon Nothing to do with great eyes?? If you measure each side of the stairs and chalk a line, you will be even with the original deck level there for it will look even?? If you are worried about the level, then straighten out the top deck?? When one side is not even with the other side you automatically think it is not level. You can fool the eye by making the measurement the same at both ends. Levels have their place but, in this case, not needed!! Ok makes sense if the wood is dry to space it but if wet definitely install them tight just make sure whatever you use to install accordingly to whether it shrinks or expands! Here in Ontario Canada we use mostly PT or Cedar and is wet wood so tight is the way to go as it will shrink and you will easily get a 1/4" gap or more🙂
Best to always leave a gap. If you are using Mahogany instead of PT, you MUST leave a GAP as Mahogany expands and will seal tightly against the other boards. When it rains, it will puddle. This might not seem like a big deal but in New England, that puddle will FREEZE and become a layer of ICE! You want the gaps so the water will drain through the cracks!
@@MitchMitchell-q8d I'm talking here in Ontario Canada Where the most popular deck materials are Pressure treated or Cedar and yes, they are wet and need to be installed tight!! I can't speak for other areas but yes look into the type of wood you use and install accordingly🙂
@@MitchMitchell-q8d I am talking Ontario Canada where the most popular deck material is Pressure Treated or Cedar? This is wet and yes needs to be installed Tight!! Obviously check what kind of wood you use and install accordingly wherever you are located 🙂
Very nice vid dad and brothers taught you well....
Will have to check that out. I have always done it manully. Ghanks
Anytime Jeff, thanks! I take it you’re good at math.
Props for mentioning it at all regarding the bottom riser being shorter than the rest but I thought you might have spent a little more time explaining the reason. I thought you would return to it as you were installing the treads. This is without a doubt the most common mistake people make when first building a set of stairs. If you miss it and the deck is being inspected, it will fail, so it’s important.
Thanks for taking the time to comment on this. I'll keep that in mind for next time. It's a good point. You are right in that it's the most common mistake people make. Appreciate your feedback!
Very nice video. I need this info 1st time in my life. Thank You! The music is distracting in my opinion.
Noted! Thanks for the feedback.
Very well done. Terrific video. Thanks for sharing.
Many thanks!
never had to or thought of building steps, but cool video! glad you're back in uniform!
Thanks Jerry! Feels good to be back in uniform. Enjoy your day!
@@DaruDhillon thank you for the reply.. it really meant a lot. you are truely lovely
@@jerrycho9869 I appreciate the support, every view and comment helps this channel grow. I’m grateful to be able to do that. It’s thanks to people like you. So it’s my pleasure to say hi.
@@DaruDhillon i really do hope your channel grows. i don't know if you read my comment about canadians and the word 'out' but i looked through 5 of your videos to hear you say it lol. i guess it was not true but really? 5 videos to hear a construction person say 'out'? i enjoyed those videos too.
Daru, I thoroughly enjoyed your impressive straightforward design and level of Craftsmanship during the installation of your desk stairs!
I am confident that I can build my desk stair steps on my deck!
Well done, Daru!
Hi Robert, thank-you so much!
So beautiful and so knowledgeable 😘😘😘😘
Remarkably well done video! Thank you for your awesome effort.
Glad you enjoyed it Hilarie thanks!
WOW your a wizard, thank you for the video..
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Nicely done, get info and tips.
Btw "Star Drive bit" is a Torque bit
I am liking your videos - thanks. In this video, at 6:23, I am wondering why you refer to your Milwaukee circular saw (as pictured in the video) as Skill saw. Do you have any Skill saws that arre not pictured in the video? Keep up the good work.
Helpful and very well presented.
Glad it was helpful!
I used to hear 7/11 as limits to rise and run. Architects will almost always use 6 and 12 in buildings.
If a person is't experienced with stairs always draw a picture with all of the measurements before starting to cut. There are several things that can cause problems such as in the video where you show the last riser being less because of the thickness of the deck boards. Riser thickness and nosing overhang has to be considered. Also there is almost always one more riser than there are treads. In this example the riser is a part of the deck itself but it has to be considered in the calculations.
Great points to consider and worth noting. I appreciate you sharing your experience working with stair building and different preferences.
Just a thought on risers before or after treads. If they go in first, if it rains and you get water on the treads, it can drop to the ground back there. Risers last and you might get standing water back there, wicking it's way between them. No right or wrong - just something to think about...
Good things to keep in mind. I like a shadow gap for drainage whatever you choose. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this!
Appreciate the video, stay blessed
@@SLala-ob3lj thank-you, same to you.
One small thing that makes a huge difference. Instead of using the Simpson screws in the joist hangers when fastening to the rim joist, I'd suggest using the Simpson nails. This will allow the end of the stringer to butt up against the rim joist, instead of being offset the 1/4 inch that the head of the Simpson screw pushes it away. It makes your structure a bit stronger and removes the gap for water/ice/debris to fill in, even with the tape.
Good to know your technique for installing hangers I’ll keep that in mind. Thanks for sharing your tips. It’s always helpful to hear what works for you. Thanks!
@@DaruDhillon It is what works for me, but also what is code. When the end of the stringer, joist, rafter is snug up against the resting/adjoining piece, it is sturdy and secure and won't move when the structure settles. When there is a gap, it does move.
agreed, 10:08, nails better. The hex heads of the screws will prevent the stringer from flushing up to the rim joist.
@@jmackinjersey1 I spoke with the Engineer at Simpson, the manufacturer of the hangers before making this video about screw placement and this is based on manufacturer specifications. I understand you can choose either nail or screw. Curious why your code doesn’t allow it if the manufacturer recommends it?
Thank you for the amazing tutorial! The secret here to a successful stringer is the stair gauge. Just ordered a pair. None of the other videos I watched advised to use those tiny stair gauge. Now I know I can do kung fu! 😂
Nice work! Thanks!
Good quality instruction , did she say just screw it?
Great , showing all the steps! You didn't really explain how you set the height when you fastened the stringer connector to the deck. Important. I was prompted to click by the thumbnail. I didn't know what you were going to do with that piece of plywood in a stringer shape. Oh a template or test piece. Good idea.
Thanks. The height of your stringer will be determined by the deck stringer calculator that I used in the video. Appreciate your feedback!
Great job ,thanks ❤️👍🏴
Glad you enjoyed it
I might suggest when you cut your first stringer that you use that as a template. That way all of your stringers are identical. The other thing that comes to mind was the first riser was not the same as the rest of them, this might be a tripping hazard. I did not understand why you did that. Thank you.
I’ll explain that more in detail next time. I appreciate the feedback.
FRAMING SQUARE AND STAIR GUAGES‼️HOW MANY VIDEOS HAVE I WATCHED AND YOUR THE FIRST PERSON TO -NAME THE BIG RULER SCALE AD SHOW ME THOSE LITTLE MECHANICAL GUAGES CALLED STAIR GUAGES🤣‼️WELL IM GLAD MY SEARCHING HATH LEAD ME HERE
TO THE SOURCE OF KNOWLEDGE!!
GRASSHOPPER WILL SIT AGAIN AND TAKE MORE NOTES! THANK YOU!! To the SMIIIIILE THAT KNOWS!!
They are worth the 9$. Super handy and the framing square gets a lot of use. Glad you found it useful. Thanks!
Awesome video! Thank you! It helped a lot!!!
Fantastic, glad it helped. Good on you Tabitha for taking on stairs! You rock!
So handy. I'm in love.
PS I SUBSCRIBED!
Going to have to watch again-( learning so much! Now I know what my grandfather used that tool for! Checking the Overhang on his Brick Stairs he made! ( he and his Dad helped to Rebuild the Portland Head Lighthouse in Maine! WAAAY back when!!
Very cool bit of history in your family. Love that! Welcome Rodger!
Them screws that your using are for composite board, I'm not sure if they would work well over time with PT. I feel like they would pull through over time when the boards start wanting to curl.
If anyone has an issue you can always face screw with them too. Haven’t seen anything but I’m a couple years in. Proper installation is key too. You don’t want to over sink these.
Til now I ws struggling having watched several tuition videos. When I watched yours I stopped looking. Very good instructions and easy the keep up although you do talk a little quick, 5 stars from me
Thanks for watching and I appreciate the feedback. I’m always listening and your thoughts are encouraged and valued. Good on you for taking on this project!
Great video! Question - doesn't the offset of the screw-head (used to attached adjustable stringer bracket to ledger board/rim) end up creating a 1/4 inch "longer" run for the top stair?
Just subbed cause of excellent vid and you should be a model... hand model for sure
Excellent. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
After determining the "total rise", you then first determine the total number of risers (not treads) required. The preferable riser height based upon ergonomic analysis, is 7.2". (so, 7-1/4" is close enough). Similarly, the preferable tread "depth" is 10", plus a 1" nose (so 11" overall with a 1" overlap nose-to-tread). You should never allow yourself to "cheat" with regard to those dimensions as they have been proven through ergonomic studies to be the most efficient as well as safe in terms of avoiding tripping whether proceeding up or down stairs. "Closed" risers are also advisable since they prevent accidental tripping through when a foot slips through when climbing the stairs.
For stairs constructed using wood stringers, rather than cutting (and thus weakening the stringers through the removal of "beam" depth and greater exposure of the wood fiber structure to eventual water and dry rot infiltration, it is preferable/advisable to utilize full-depth risers to which galvanized angle clips are attached to the inside faces to support the treads. Alternately, you can utilize 4x (thickness) wood stringers and mortise the treads (as tenons) into the inside faces of the stringers. When you mortise the treads in, you first treat the mortises with a waterproofing material (e.g., Henrys 208, or similar) and then insert the tread tenons. You can then screw (or nail) fasten from the underside by toe-nailing(screwing) at a 45 degree angle from the tread into the stringer, or (better) by using LONG deck screws through the outside face of the stringer into the ends of each tread tenon.
Thanks for your feedback on this
Nome of this is necessary. Cut stringers are fully compatible with building codes. And as for riser height, you're never going to be able go get that perfect 7.25 inch rise for every step. Your riser height will depend on your total rise, of which you have no control.
@@Wowzersdude-k5c Granted - cut stringers are allowed by building codes - I have cut/framed many hundreds of stairs using cut stringers. However, the application of cut stringers is best confined to interior conditions where adverse weathering and/or fungal infestation will not occur. Cut wood surfaces running across the grain are far less resilient to water and/or fungal infestation than are finished (e.g., SRS) or rough (e.g., re-sawn) running with the grain. As for control of rise, you often times have more control of rise outdoors than indoors via controlling the ground elevation, which oftentimes can be graded out/adjusted to improve stair design and construction.
This is just a question…. Can you simply trace the tread you want at Lowe’s hardware on the 2x12 that you are buying?
Yes. People do that. I would test it out on a template see if it works for you. You might luck out!
Thanks for the info 😊
Good to hear from you Richard, you’re welcome!
Joist tape , nice
Glad you like it! Simple and effective.
What's are the requirements for the bottom and top connections for the stairs?
How do you attach top of the stairs e.g. to the concrete patio?
Do you always have to pour cement pad to attach the stairs on the bottom?
The requirement is to use the hangers in the video. In my area you can have a poured concrete pad or pavers. Check your local building code to see what’s required for your area. Thanks
Most of what I saw I already knew. The joist tape is VERY important and pressure treated does not mean it won't rot so anything you can do to slow down the rot ( water is the main culprit ) will reward you down the road
Thanks for sharing your tips with us!
Lady I can’t build jack, however enjoyed class learned a little.
Thanks Bill good to hear from you!
Nice job!
Thanks!
What fasteners should I be using for the stair stringer hanger? I have plenty of hangers, but do I use flathead screws to attach to the joist or it looked like you used a hex head screw or bolt on the outside connecting the stringer to the hanger.
@@Copperspd_382 the fasteners have to be the same as in the video. They are both linked in the description box. You can also use the nails that are listed on the stringer hanger description. The fasteners are galvanized the hex head screws.
Good video!
Thanks!
At least an inch noising overhang for adequate heel space when building a deck. Cut the bottom of the first riser, ground contact riser, the thickness of the material you'll be using for your treads, if it's different from your decking material. Measure your overall rise at the point where the stringers contact the ground. If you understand how to calculate rafter lengths, you can use the same method to get exact stair stringer lengths and very specifically placed stair stringers, if needed.
Good to hear from you. Thanks for sharing your experience!
excellent video
Awesome, thanks!
Your tread lenght on the stringer is dependant on what you want you use for the actual tread and tread over hang. And your thickness of the riser unless your not using a riser .
Yes. You can enter all that information into the online stringer calculator shown in the video to get thoes exact numbers. Thanks for sharing your knowledge on this!
good information
Thanks!