Had the same code few days ago. It turned out to be a small hose over the Turbo, it cracked and went loose. After fixing it there were no more errors. Also together with P0299 I had some glow plug codes. That tubing was also connected to the engine block right next to the plug no4.
Hi, was the glow plug code P0674 by any chance? Cylinder 4 Glow plug circuit/open. I've got the same pair of codes and now I'm praying it's the same cause it sounds like an easy fix. If you have part number for the hose I'd be forever grateful
I managed to find the issue, it was a vacuum line on top of the engine that had split, along with a dodgy egr cooler gasket. Fortunately they were both cheap fixes, although the egr leak was a pain
@kingconcookie I'm really happy you figured it out. Might also have the same issue, so thanks for the advice! Was actually sad to see there wasn't a reply to you lol
@@tornadotayte I found my leak by taking the airbox off and then starting the car and having my bare hand right in around the turbo to feel for air. The vacuum hose was much more obvious though
Hi, is it possible that the actuator rod is nice and tight but the wastegate flapper inside the turbo housing is loosed and wobbly? Great tutorial. Thanks
For me the fix (on transverse as well as on longitudinal 2.0T) for this code has been to take the 'slack' out, caused by worn connection of the rod to wastegate. I have NOT used the clip (have seen the clip, but found hard to install). Instead I take the slack out by shortening the wastegate rods so that it is pretensioned again. The easiest way to BEND the rod (makes it shorter). The last car (my 2009 A4), the first bend was not enough, and code returned after a while .I applied an S shaped bend. Fixed now.
Sometimes it's the Wastegate Actuator, sometimes it's the Diverter Valve, sometimes the Catalytic Converter needs replaced/is clogged. If it's just throwing the Code but still running fine with no rattling or excessive exhaust & turbo heat.
So I just put on an ecs tuning diverter valve spacer as well as turbo muffler delete. Did the muffler delete first and ran it a few minutes.. fine. Did the spacer and now getting the code. Waste gate is fine. Could this possibly be the spacer not sitting right?
Did you check the Catalytic Converter? That O2 sensor on it would be reading hotter than usual... That'll keep the P0299 code on even after a brand new Turbo Kit including the Diverter Valve.
Unfortunately yes. It is more cost effect to purchase a new turbo than taking out the turbo and repairing the waste gate because both procedures would be removing the turbo. Since you have to remove the old turbo; this is a good time to upgrade! More boost more power. That's what I did !
Add the clip onto a new one, OEM is $930 on FCPEuro and is the actual OEM Manufacturer or you could go with a CTS turbo kit, but I'm not sure if you have to tune it or if that will start throwing codes/etc. Don't just throw a big Greddy Turbo on a bih and think it's gonna run right. For the 2.0T man, keep it stock. The 4.0 & 3.0 platforms are better/more rewarding to build upon.
So basically I replaced the diverter valve already and i just got shot the same code for my audi 2013 a5 if the waste gate clip is loose could i not just fix that
If it wasn't the Diverter Valve, then it is likely the Wastegate, if not an unplugged hose somewhere...otherwise the only other thing (other than broken turbo fans) is a Clogged/Bad Catalytic Converter.
Ignition Coils, Spark Plugs, PCV Valve, Rear Main Seal, Valve Cover Seal, Old Piston Ring inlet design instead of the Updated Zig-Zag piston rings. Also the timing chain. Check the Plugs & Coils first. Don't cheap out on the Ignition Coils, go with the Eldor Brand on FCPEuro (it's who builds the OEM Ignition Coils to begin with) and NGK Spark Plugs(Basic iridium $13/plug) and change out ALL 4(IF THEY'RE WORN OR OLD) You'll notice the change immediately. Engine will run smoother. Change the oil & oil filter when you're done. Go with LiquiMoly. If the TDI has the EGR system, you'll likely be addressing that as a source of Carbon Buildup & extra oil consumption. You can do all the repairs yourself if you're mechanically inclined & the proper tools. Plugs, Coils, PCV Valve; all on the top & easy to change. Same with the oil. As for the Piston Rings & Timing Chain Rebuild; weigh your budget for a rebuild. If you have a second car, do the rebuild yourself. If this is your daily driver, pay for it to be done or ride it out on bandaids until you can buy a new car.
@@jd9352 Hi thank you for replying. I replaced the whole new turbo that comes with a new diverter valve. What also could be the problem maybe a bost sensor? The code it says turbocharger underboost..
@@najim-fx6626 Well 2 things 1st the sensor is detecting low turbo pressure. Check the installation of the diverted calve (leaks) check the turbo for leaks. have you checked turbo pressure? 2nd verify electrical connection from diverted valve and wiring harness. Could be short where wire is exposed or faulty connector.
@@najim-fx6626 It could be a faulty diverted. Do you have the old to swap out. Also did you clear the codes after the new turbo was replaced ? I would clear the codes as well.
Yes, you can access the bottom bolt(4th bolt) from the back of the engine. with a 3/8 extension and a wobbly 15mm deep socket. Watch my 2012 A4 turbo replacement Part 1. ruclips.net/video/i-PxeoUk1yk/видео.html
This man showing some good information on not so easy of a car to work on that can help a lot of people including yourself because u are watching the video also and all u can comment is that he needs to learn the difference between nuts and bolts. U must be 12
im making 10-11psi boost under full load but still get a random p0299 code. WTF code it be? No leaks or loose hoses. New plugs, diverter valve. Maybe the boost sensor?
Assuming 10psi is the correct amount of boost you can do a boost leak test then at the same time read what the boost sensor is giving to the engine computer on your scan tool.. I use torque app pro on my smartphone together with the $25 dongle plugged into the OBD2 port. if there is a significant discrepancy its probably the sensor. Seal up any boost leaks while your there.
Had the same code few days ago. It turned out to be a small hose over the Turbo, it cracked and went loose. After fixing it there were no more errors. Also together with P0299 I had some glow plug codes. That tubing was also connected to the engine block right next to the plug no4.
Hi, was the glow plug code P0674 by any chance? Cylinder 4 Glow plug circuit/open. I've got the same pair of codes and now I'm praying it's the same cause it sounds like an easy fix. If you have part number for the hose I'd be forever grateful
Please help this man
I managed to find the issue, it was a vacuum line on top of the engine that had split, along with a dodgy egr cooler gasket. Fortunately they were both cheap fixes, although the egr leak was a pain
@kingconcookie I'm really happy you figured it out. Might also have the same issue, so thanks for the advice! Was actually sad to see there wasn't a reply to you lol
@@tornadotayte I found my leak by taking the airbox off and then starting the car and having my bare hand right in around the turbo to feel for air. The vacuum hose was much more obvious though
Hi, is it possible that the actuator rod is nice and tight but the wastegate flapper inside the turbo housing is loosed and wobbly? Great tutorial. Thanks
For me the fix (on transverse as well as on longitudinal 2.0T) for this code has been to take the 'slack' out, caused by worn connection of the rod to wastegate. I have NOT used the clip (have seen the clip, but found hard to install). Instead I take the slack out by shortening the wastegate rods so that it is pretensioned again. The easiest way to BEND the rod (makes it shorter). The last car (my 2009 A4), the first bend was not enough, and code returned after a while .I applied an S shaped bend. Fixed now.
Sometimes it's the Wastegate Actuator, sometimes it's the Diverter Valve, sometimes the Catalytic Converter needs replaced/is clogged.
If it's just throwing the Code but still running fine with no rattling or excessive exhaust & turbo heat.
P0299
Did your wastgate actuator rod have any play? I suspect I have a bad wastage flapper as well, but the rod has no play at all.
Yes, it had a lot of play. Check the video of the turbo when I removed it.
ruclips.net/video/BK2CMTrwNWg/видео.html
That's what i wanted to know. Wish his video showed that!
So I just put on an ecs tuning diverter valve spacer as well as turbo muffler delete. Did the muffler delete first and ran it a few minutes.. fine. Did the spacer and now getting the code. Waste gate is fine. Could this possibly be the spacer not sitting right?
Did you check the Catalytic Converter? That O2 sensor on it would be reading hotter than usual... That'll keep the P0299 code on even after a brand new Turbo Kit including the Diverter Valve.
What issues where your car was having when u were driving ?
I have that problem but I don’t have money now for change. Can I use my car anyways or what u advise me?
You can drive the car, but the performance will be to the amount of pressure being lost.
@BASSNSANE thanks for the video link. Very helpful 👌
Do you have to replace the whole turbo or can you use that factory upgrade clip that they have for it?
Unfortunately yes. It is more cost effect to purchase a new turbo than taking out the turbo and repairing the waste gate because both procedures would be removing the turbo. Since you have to remove the old turbo; this is a good time to upgrade! More boost more power. That's what I did !
Can you link to the clip (heard that is the factory 'fix' to take the slack out of the wastegate and make sure it is fully closing).
@@vtraudt pretty sure the clip is for preventative maintenance to strengthen and prevent it from going loose
Add the clip onto a new one, OEM is $930 on FCPEuro and is the actual OEM Manufacturer or you could go with a CTS turbo kit, but I'm not sure if you have to tune it or if that will start throwing codes/etc. Don't just throw a big Greddy Turbo on a bih and think it's gonna run right.
For the 2.0T man, keep it stock. The 4.0 & 3.0 platforms are better/more rewarding to build upon.
Same with the 2.5 TTRS motors as well! (5cyl)
So basically I replaced the diverter valve already and i just got shot the same code for my audi 2013 a5 if the waste gate clip is loose could i not just fix that
What I understand the procedure to fixe the waste gate is to remove the turbocharger. You might as well get a upgraded high performance replacement.
If it wasn't the Diverter Valve, then it is likely the Wastegate, if not an unplugged hose somewhere...otherwise the only other thing (other than broken turbo fans) is a Clogged/Bad Catalytic Converter.
Cat Convertor, Wastegate Actuator, Diverter Valve, etc. Should do all if you can.
My audi 2.0tdi is consuming way more than normal. Any suggestions?
Ignition Coils, Spark Plugs, PCV Valve, Rear Main Seal, Valve Cover Seal, Old Piston Ring inlet design instead of the Updated Zig-Zag piston rings. Also the timing chain.
Check the Plugs & Coils first. Don't cheap out on the Ignition Coils, go with the Eldor Brand on FCPEuro (it's who builds the OEM Ignition Coils to begin with) and NGK Spark Plugs(Basic iridium $13/plug) and change out ALL 4(IF THEY'RE WORN OR OLD)
You'll notice the change immediately. Engine will run smoother. Change the oil & oil filter when you're done. Go with LiquiMoly.
If the TDI has the EGR system, you'll likely be addressing that as a source of Carbon Buildup & extra oil consumption.
You can do all the repairs yourself if you're mechanically inclined & the proper tools. Plugs, Coils, PCV Valve; all on the top & easy to change. Same with the oil.
As for the Piston Rings & Timing Chain Rebuild; weigh your budget for a rebuild. If you have a second car, do the rebuild yourself.
If this is your daily driver, pay for it to be done or ride it out on bandaids until you can buy a new car.
The PCV Valve is the Hengst brand, but I'm not sure if the TDI is the same as the Gas engines...
I got this check engine code after 3 days of replacing a new turbo. What could be the problem?
Was the diverter valve replaced?
@@jd9352 Hi thank you for replying. I replaced the whole new turbo that comes with a new diverter valve. What also could be the problem maybe a bost sensor? The code it says turbocharger underboost..
@@najim-fx6626 Well 2 things 1st the sensor is detecting low turbo pressure. Check the installation of the diverted calve (leaks) check the turbo for leaks. have you checked turbo pressure? 2nd verify electrical connection from diverted valve and wiring harness. Could be short where wire is exposed or faulty connector.
@@najim-fx6626 It could be a faulty diverted. Do you have the old to swap out. Also did you clear the codes after the new turbo was replaced ? I would clear the codes as well.
I need help finding the turbocharger boost sensor I have the same code p0299 but mine says Boost pressure regulation control not reached Audi A6 2015
The sensor on A4 should be underneath the turbo. watch my 2012 Audi A4 Turbo Replacement Part 1 thru 3 for the locations.
2012 Audi A4 Turbo Replacement Part
ruclips.net/video/uuJmyW3eb7E/видео.html
👍
Where can I get a replacement (remanufactured) turbo. Stealership quoted me just over $5k for it. Ffs
Here ae some sites that sell aftermarket turbos: www.urotuning.com/ www.moddedeuros.com/
@@jd9352 Thank you!
Is this a diesel a5 mate?
no it's benzin
Saw a guy heat that easte gate til its glowing red and smack it with a hammer to fix
Hows that gonna fix it by heating up the waste gate until glowing hot ?
Heating the metal up softens the metal so when you smack it with a hammer, it will create a tight seal on the turbo instead of being loose.
3/8? Audi should be all metric no?
Yes, all metric
Sorry i mean A4 ?
How to get the 4th bolt out?? Got 3 of em out already but the one in the corner i cant find enough space to take off the bolt
Yes, you can access the bottom bolt(4th bolt) from the back of the engine. with a 3/8 extension and a wobbly 15mm deep socket. Watch my 2012 A4 turbo replacement Part 1. ruclips.net/video/i-PxeoUk1yk/видео.html
Also you can watch this video. This guy shows in little more detail take out that bottom exhaust bolt. ruclips.net/video/bW70AlIyof8/видео.html
F*cking love you man
That's an easy 30min permanent fix right there in that position !! I've fixed dozens..
@@KGZAG2012 how?
u need to know the difference between nuts bolts and screws lol
This man showing some good information on not so easy of a car to work on that can help a lot of people including yourself because u are watching the video also and all u can comment is that he needs to learn the difference between nuts and bolts. U must be 12
@@lobssangmarrero4781 why does it bother or matter to you what i said darling?
@@longbar2344 💀💀💀💀 DARLING
im making 10-11psi boost under full load but still get a random p0299 code. WTF code it be? No leaks or loose hoses. New plugs, diverter valve. Maybe the boost sensor?
Assuming you replaced the turbo or verified the waste gate is good. I would get that sensor checked.
Assuming 10psi is the correct amount of boost you can do a boost leak test then at the same time read what the boost sensor is giving to the engine computer on your scan tool.. I use torque app pro on my smartphone together with the $25 dongle plugged into the OBD2 port. if there is a significant discrepancy its probably the sensor. Seal up any boost leaks while your there.
We just replaced the whole turbo too and still having this code. Moving to the sensor next
welding the wastegate doesnt help ?