I have an old copper irrigation system. what's the best and easiest way to rise the heads to the current grass level? The current heads don't even seem to be solder on the pipe.
I haven't ever seen copper used in my region so I thought it best to stick with what others were doing. I have seen PVC used as well, but galvanized seemed like the much more robust long-term option. Thanks for watchin!
It's holding up great! In my opinion, galvanized is the way to go. It shouldn't rust and will last way longer than PVC which will degrade over time in sunlight due to the UV.
@@42Pursuit the only problem with galvanized pipe is that unless you use a di-electric union to connect them to brass, the weaker material (iron in this case), will corrode away in a few years.
It's a black polyethylene pipe. That style is the most commonly used pipe for underground sprinklers at least around where I'm at. I would imagine pex would work but it would be very expensive.
Great video! I am trying to build an automatic sprinkler system with 75 psi of static pressure, but only a flow rate of 5 gpm - the area I am trying to cover is around 3500 square feet of lawn. Do you know roughly how many heads or zones I should be running for a space that large? There's so many options. Thank you
Ah, that's a bit beyond me. I just figured out what plumbing was needed to get water from the house to the sprinkler box, the sprinklers and line had already been installed in this yard.
@@AaronEsterling I followed Hunters Sprinkler Design Guide it provides a step by step process. Each sprinkler has a psi and gpm rating. Looking at your psi, gpm flow, meter size, etc provides what is called a working GPM. If you total the heads of the same type in a zone you keep it under that working gpm number. Not that hard… I also estimated pressure loss and there are some simple calculators for that as well.
@@42Pursuit Always leave the valves on the backflow preventers open at a 45 degree angle once it is blown out so not to freeze, damage or crack the valve. Thanks
The best straight forward info. Thank you for the time you took in making this as easy as pie!
Glad you found it helpful! And thanks for letting me know!
I have an old copper irrigation system. what's the best and easiest way to rise the heads to the current grass level? The current heads don't even seem to be solder on the pipe.
Hmm, unfortunately I'm not familiar with that sort of system.
Thanks for sharing. Why did you use galvanized instead of copper? Looks great.
I haven't ever seen copper used in my region so I thought it best to stick with what others were doing. I have seen PVC used as well, but galvanized seemed like the much more robust long-term option.
Thanks for watchin!
I was wonder the exact same thing!
One should never put copper fittings on galvanized pipe. A reaction of the two causes corrosion followed by failure. Thanks
@@noneya9013 FOR SURE....
How’s the galvanized pipes holding up so far ? I’m trying to decide best pipe to use. Will galvanized rust with time or should I use pvc?
It's holding up great! In my opinion, galvanized is the way to go. It shouldn't rust and will last way longer than PVC which will degrade over time in sunlight due to the UV.
@@42Pursuit the only problem with galvanized pipe is that unless you use a di-electric union to connect them to brass, the weaker material (iron in this case), will corrode away in a few years.
Is the Black exterior pipe which goes to the box a pex pipe?
It's a black polyethylene pipe. That style is the most commonly used pipe for underground sprinklers at least around where I'm at. I would imagine pex would work but it would be very expensive.
What is connecting the black pipe to the manifold
It's a poly to threaded hose connector. Should be able to find it in the sprinkler section at your local home store.
Great video! I am trying to build an automatic sprinkler system with 75 psi of static pressure, but only a flow rate of 5 gpm - the area I am trying to cover is around 3500 square feet of lawn. Do you know roughly how many heads or zones I should be running for a space that large? There's so many options. Thank you
Ah, that's a bit beyond me. I just figured out what plumbing was needed to get water from the house to the sprinkler box, the sprinklers and line had already been installed in this yard.
I’m in exactly the same situation as you. Would love to hear what you come up with.
@@AaronEsterling I followed Hunters Sprinkler Design Guide it provides a step by step process. Each sprinkler has a psi and gpm rating. Looking at your psi, gpm flow, meter size, etc provides what is called a working GPM. If you total the heads of the same type in a zone you keep it under that working gpm number. Not that hard… I also estimated pressure loss and there are some simple calculators for that as well.
Why is there two shut off valves before the backflow?
One comes part of the assembly, and the other one inside the house is to shut off before freezing temps.
@@42Pursuit Always leave the valves on the backflow preventers open at a 45 degree angle once it is blown out so not to freeze, damage or crack the valve. Thanks
You should not put galvanized and brass or copper together you WILL get corrosion!
Hmm, I see your point. What should you connect to the brass backflow preventer then? Plastic seems like it would degrade if exposed to UV outside.
@@42Pursuit you can use a dielectric nipple or dielectric union for joining dissimilar metals.