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You can buy a puller for 20 dollars…

sn't there a risk that the small particles of rock wool could be dispersed into the air?

How much for this job

Excellent solution! Thank you!

Lifesaver ❤

Great video! But if I instead use 1x4 pine boards for the frame (no table saw), wouldn’t there be an extra inch where the 3” thick insulation would flop around?

Thanks

the magic starts a 1000 grit...😂

Nice design mate, and a great video production

Thanks for posting your informative video. What I really got out of it, was maintaining speed while gaining strength by controlling everything with pulleys. It's almost like mechanical advantage in reverse, sort of , I guess, oh whatever, ... it was cool to watch.

Curious why didn't you just use a leaf blower VACUUM? What's your logic? Specifically Toro blower vacuum as example

Channel locks

Much finer emery paper 800, 1000, 1500 grit and graduate to fine steel wool. Remember it is UV damage your removing. No need to use jackhammer style muscle on the sanding part!....Meaning do not put pressure when sanding! You'll gouge deep grooves. Back and forth even passes in a uniform manner, then up and down passes. Rinse surface well and allow to dry. You'll end up with much better results. The grits that were used in this video are ridiculously too coarse.They would work for taking rust off of steel.But that's not the situation here.

This is absolutely brilliant! I wish I had seen this video sooner! Had just ordered a worm gear last week, after hemming and hawing between the worm gear and the nema motor. Went with the worm gear bc I've never programmed an arduino before. However, if my simple circuitry plans fall through, I'm definitely going to go with your plans. Heck, I may just scrap it altogether anyway and go with your design. Soooooo much incredible functionality! Thank you so much for posting this.

Why not use the leaf blower?

You suck. :)

It gets worse when the brass cartridge breaks off entirely. I had the pleasure of drilling a hole into the center of the spool and driving in a 3/8 tap, then pulling that out with the use of pb blaster and a torch on the valve body. Great valve when its not stuck!

Thank god finally a good review not a paid review. I have yet to see anyone do a ppfd test on them!

I agree with the commenters below who said these methods are much too dangerous for DIY! If you have ever seen anyone working with acetone get burned, you wouldn't go near this! Even that small cup could create a disastrous fireball with one spark -- especially when it's hot. MEK is a long term exposure hazard. It cooks the liver. Brief exposures probably don't much matter. The big danger in all of this is flammability.

Looks great. If nothing else I'll be using a shop vac with a downspout filter in my first attemp.

Did you try a wet vac first?

Did you do a second part of the video with 1000, 1500 and 2000?

Well this is second time I see this you know how much you saved I look the router lift today one is a 1000 English pounds which is nice but the price is not that nice and look how much you spend may be under 200 dollars and works I have dewalt 625 which is powerful router for hard wood thanks my brain they going to different level know because of my friend thanks again I say hello from London but my work shop hopefully is going to be in Colombia 🇨🇴 👌👌👍

Can I just pay double for you to make this for me?! Please!!😅

Fantastic! I must ask, and maybe the answer is obvious, but can this not be done with a shop vac? I only ask because I have one already.

A hydraulic crimping tool also works.

Very good work up good price thanks 🙏

Another option? I cannot built this

I'm looking to do this soon.

SIIIIIIICK!!! Makes may wish pine needles were my problem. 🫤 Please let me know if you come up with a solution to separate [my] decorative rocks from adobe--either wet or dry adobe, bcuz both are a MAJOR pain in the rump to separate! Adobe is like clay... It sticks to everything when it's wet (rocks, boots, tools, itself) and dries rock hard, almost fossilizing, with cracks and fishers throughout. You can dig into it when it's dry, but it comes up (from the Earth) in large chunks that are hard to break apart. Those chunky monkey pieces of dirt imprison the decorative rocks for that area inside of it! The rocks settle into it when it's mud, and then they're stuck, just like Han Solo when he gets encased in Carbonite... ✨⭐🪖☠️ So yeah... You can hammer the chunks into smaller pieces, but you CANNOT break them apart by hand. They are too hard! And they break down to about the same size as the rocks [I use], which makes it harder to separate by size, sometimes impossible. Larger rocks offer some solution, but that's not always what I want aesthetically or practically for the space. 🤔😂😭 Anyway, you're obviously super creative, resourceful, and smart--not to mention innovative, clever, handy... I could go on and on, but I've fully detailed my situation. Hopefully I described it well enough. Please let me know if you have any ideas (or questions of course), and thank you for your time! ☮️ P.S. I know you didn't make this video to get inundated with people's problems, so I apologize for barging in with so many words--and asking for your thoughts--the audacity! But you do realize that it's your fault, don't you? If you weren't the most innovative, solutions-oriented, high quality RUclipsr that's posting videos about this specific thing, then you wouldn't be inundated with all my friggin words! But alas, here we are. All kidding aside, I appreciate your help, or even just your sympathy for my plight, if that's all you have time for, I understand and thank you... Much obliged, Sir!

The comment about MEK, aka methylethylketone or butanone is incorrect; it's not caustic. It's a common solvent. You want to avoid breathing much of it...use it in a well-ventilated space..and any vapour build up is potentially explosive. As for restoring hazy headlights in general, all the ones I've looked at show internal haze not just surface haze. Solvent smoothing as shown here and coatings will only fix haze caused by surface roughness; the internal haze will remain. As a quick check smearing a liquid on the headlight..soapy water, vegetable oil, wax polish...will give you a good idea of what you can expect from surface restoration. The headlight will look less cloudy but if it's still quite cloudy then the issue is internal haze and I know of no way to fix that.

To adjust my router I removed the adjusting nut. I then heated up a piece of 3/4" pvc about 10" long and pressed it onto the adjustment nut. Let it cool. Thread the nut on the end of the PVC back onto the router. The PVC hangs low enough to twist by hand and I can make micro adjustments from the bottom of the router table. Total cost $1.28. I added a hole to my router table so that the router can be pulled out of the table and set down to change bits. The PVC fits into the hole of the router table.

You should get a commission!

Dude, these are SO GOOD - I built my own in a different way and they definitely don't look as nice 😅 Great idea to use a MDF sheet to cut the frame bits, way cheaper than getting actual timber!

use 1500-3000 sandpaper to finish, you're crazy to try vapor smoothing at 600grit and below

Cnc machine is way quicker!,badass

Just finished building mine and amazingly it works! We have a lot of river rock bordering our pool area that unfortunately collects leaves, pine needles, and other debris. I tried the leaf blower thing which only spread the mess. My normal shop vac sucked up every rock. This works very well and only picks up an occasional rock. Thanks!

Thank you for showing the strugge!!

Why didn't you try using 2500 grit sandpaper or higher? This is what is normally used before polishing with V36 compound. Also should have used polycarbonate sheet.

THANKS. very useful video

Am still lost here...

So you made a shop vac? Lol

ah yes a jig saw, cuts to cnc router cutting the wood

My setup is a bit different from this, but these are some good tips. I should be able to make it work!

For those who don't want to install a purpose made router lift there is an easier way, you still get the precision lift and its so easy too. All I did was install an old scissor lift car jack on the shelf under the router. To raise or lower just turn the crank shaft receptacle by hand. The load is so light compared with a heavy vehicle that you can turn it easily without the crank shaft. Bolt or screw the jack in position and turn the jack slightly offset so it isn't sticking out to your belly button. This method guarantees the router won't move down either so its rock solid in any position. My router always moves back down when I back off on the jack because it is spring loaded plunging model.

This certainly explains my experience, which involved getting warranty replacements and now having half of them out once again. This video was great for letting me know that there really is no saving them, I really will have to just buy new ones because it'll continue to be a cascading problem no matter what I do. Thanks for the breakdown.

Cool idea. I used my leaf blower to remove pine needles from a small rock bed, but it also blew the soil.

What happened to the rocks that got sucked up

You should have made it slightly larger than 48" to accommodate a tool rack for a future ATC upgrade.

Is the Black exterior pipe which goes to the box a pex pipe?