Saw you explaining with the cotterpin, this was my first diy job which I did on my grandpa bike, the crank was loose and going back and forth when pedalling. Had to buy a new pin and file it down, and low and behold, everything was stable again! Learned a lot since then because I had to do all the repairs myself with no money to send it away for repairs! 😅
I remember reading somewhere that bronze is harder than iron. After you mentioned the tensile strength it definitely made me realise how little I understand alloys and their abilities to completely change the way something soft and ductile like copper can behave.
Yes, when I was working on the Excelsior Project and delving into Metallurgy, I really did learn a Lot. Some people think it's boring stuff, but I was fascinated...
Paul, so much of interest here. Why did you choose bronze? Would you use stainless steel instead? Do you EVER machine or fabricate with stainless steel? And please could you give us a tour of your workshop sometime? I’m fascinated to know the thinking around you choices of milling machine, lathe and so forth. They look like superb machines - I’d you buy them new or spend a long time sourcing good used examples? How much of your like is spent on maintenance, cleaning, sharpening drills, bits and tools? And is your grinding wheel outside to stop grinding dust contaminating your workshop, or just because it was a handy space? Finally, what kind of wristwatch is that? Looks exactly what I’d expect - a clean, simple, rational wee machine…. I could go on, just love the culture of your workshop and the quality of your approach to everything, all worthy of a video in themselves. Cheers, Will
Thank you Will. I enjoyed reading your comments.. I chose bronze because the crank arms on the Whippet really were made of bronze. The Giraffe bikes' crank arms could also be bronze, so why not? I have never seen stainless crank arms. Yes, I have made quite a lot of parts from stainless steel. We did a shop tour many years ago. Might do another if I run out of project ideas one day. My mill was bought new in 1988 with 4 post-dated cheques. I got the lathe used many years ago. It was my neighbours' and he died, so I made a deal with his son. I grind outside to keep my shop cleaner. My watch is a $50 Timex, nothing fancy. I do clean my shop when it gets too messy... Hope I have answered your questions.
Hey Paul and Mitch! Could you make a threadcutting 101 video? Would be nice to have you explaining how to cut threads on the lathe. Love the videos, greetings from Finland!
Yes, that might work.. I do have proper blade wax for aluminum, for example. It's not that bronze is sticky, it's just very Tough. Thanks for watching....
Good job as usual, expecting now the end of the process to see the final result on the bike. I would like to have time to make some nice projects as this one at home. Thank you Paul for sharing all these tricks with us.
Ha! I saw the bronze and wondered how tough it was, then I thought aluminum bronze is supposed to be tough as hell! And sure enough that's what you have! I wasn't prepared for the iron content I'll admit. I think I've heard of an iron bronze alloy but never saw an actual product. It's crazy they can alloy all three...
I think I know what you are saying, even though Spellcheck seems to be getting the better of you... Yes, 954 Bronze is very tough indeed. Thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie yeah sometimes it's though er a tough competing with spell check. And hey, thanks for the reply! You're one of the good ones for sure. (Not that that was ever in contention.) 😉
Another very interesting bit of Engineering perfection. Good to see you are much better Paul. Keep up the great projects for all to see. Dave from Australia
I enjoy your videos a lot. I picked up a trick on threading. If you turn the cutting tool upside down and run the lathe in reverse you can thread with the tool coming away from the chuck instead of towards it. And you don't have the terror of stopping the feed on time. Looking forward to see more progress.
Yes, you can do it that way. The problem is that you have to machine a groove for the threading tool to be in to start the thread. This groove weakens the shaft a bit, especially if it is smaller in diameter. I like to thread up to the shoulder to alleviate the need for that groove. I'm pretty good at it by now, so I don't experience the "Terror" of stopping. Thanks for commenting...
As the owner of a hundred-year-old Hercules bicycle (unrestored) made in Nottingham, England, most of the shiny bits were finished in nickel plating, not chrome. I could be wrong, but that’s what I understand. When I get around to restoring the thing, it’s going to be a beast to do, especially the nickel plating. Because it’ll get really expensive really quick to have it done right. But the finished project will be accurate and correct. This is my opinion from the peanut gallery, such as it is.
Almost definitely nickel plating if it is 1920s. Home nickel plating is quite possible but the kit isn't cheap. If you do attempt it just remember the metal has to be clean, I mean really clean, I mean stupidly "don't touch it don't breathe on it" clean! Then clean it some more😂
You are probably right about the nickel plating. Chrome didn't appear until the 1920's, or thereabouts, I believe. First used on a car bumper. Thanks for commenting!
@@paulbrodie all good here , very hot here up to 43C , haven’t been below 32c for about 8 weeks with humidity hovering around 70 to 90% We don’t get snow here in northern Australia, I was working with both brass and bronze last week
Coming along nicely Paul!! If you're going to plate the parts you should Nickel Plate them instead of Chrome as back in those days they didn't have Chrome so everything was Nickel Plated. That and Nickel Plating looks so much better than Chrome, at least imo. 👍👍
I'd love to get into making bikes.... I've been a bike person as soon as I rode my first bike at 6 years old and I prefer it over all other modes of transportation. I was most likely Dutch in a past life... 😂
I had one of those chain links loose the clip on bit, rode to work for few days wondering what the new noise was, put a conventional split link in. Good idea to carry spare isn't it. Thanks for inspirational video.
5.28 that tapered shank locking pin is called a COTTER pin, locking pedal cranks to the chainwheel axle was almost its sole use.. the name cotter has been hijacked and incorrectly applied to SPLIT PINS ..
That bronze is unbelievably expensive, but it sure does machine beautifully. You said it has the same strength as chrome moly, is there any advantage in using bronze other than the looks? Thanks for the video. 👍
Joe Pie channel: Threading on a manual lathe BEST TECHNIQUE EVER !!!! His anxiety delete demonstration of away from the chuck threading might be useful. Just flip the tool holder, CW chuck rotation and carriage feed set to right travel, away from chuck.
Could you make it a little easier to buy you a coffee? I really would like a paypal possibility since I don’t want to spread my creditcard over the internet. Cheers Teun
Hi Teun, I asked Mitch and he says that PayPal is not an option for Buymeacoffee. Sorry. Using your credit card is safe at Buymeacoffee... We have had Zero problems over the years.. Thanks for your support..
“Took a while but turned out nice, thats why u need patience when your machining” one minute later “the hacksaw takes to long, lets try the belt sander”. So your just like the rest of us ehh. 😮
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Saw you explaining with the cotterpin, this was my first diy job which I did on my grandpa bike, the crank was loose and going back and forth when pedalling. Had to buy a new pin and file it down, and low and behold, everything was stable again! Learned a lot since then because I had to do all the repairs myself with no money to send it away for repairs! 😅
Yes, when money is tight, you do have to get creative. I have been there....Thanks for watching
I remember reading somewhere that bronze is harder than iron. After you mentioned the tensile strength it definitely made me realise how little I understand alloys and their abilities to completely change the way something soft and ductile like copper can behave.
Yes, when I was working on the Excelsior Project and delving into Metallurgy, I really did learn a Lot. Some people think it's boring stuff, but I was fascinated...
I think you are a bit of a mad scientist with the milling equipment.
.
David, I would not disagree... Thanks for watching!
Paul, so much of interest here. Why did you choose bronze? Would you use stainless steel instead? Do you EVER machine or fabricate with stainless steel? And please could you give us a tour of your workshop sometime? I’m fascinated to know the thinking around you choices of milling machine, lathe and so forth. They look like superb machines - I’d you buy them new or spend a long time sourcing good used examples? How much of your like is spent on maintenance, cleaning, sharpening drills, bits and tools? And is your grinding wheel outside to stop grinding dust contaminating your workshop, or just because it was a handy space? Finally, what kind of wristwatch is that? Looks exactly what I’d expect - a clean, simple, rational wee machine…. I could go on, just love the culture of your workshop and the quality of your approach to everything, all worthy of a video in themselves. Cheers, Will
Thank you Will. I enjoyed reading your comments.. I chose bronze because the crank arms on the Whippet really were made of bronze. The Giraffe bikes' crank arms could also be bronze, so why not? I have never seen stainless crank arms. Yes, I have made quite a lot of parts from stainless steel. We did a shop tour many years ago. Might do another if I run out of project ideas one day. My mill was bought new in 1988 with 4 post-dated cheques. I got the lathe used many years ago. It was my neighbours' and he died, so I made a deal with his son. I grind outside to keep my shop cleaner. My watch is a $50 Timex, nothing fancy. I do clean my shop when it gets too messy... Hope I have answered your questions.
Thanks!
I remember as a kid in the 70s filing my own cotter pins from grade 8 bolts for my Peugeot road bike. The stock ones were too soft.
Yes, the cotter pins do need to be high quality...
Hey Paul and Mitch! Could you make a threadcutting 101 video? Would be nice to have you explaining how to cut threads on the lathe. Love the videos, greetings from Finland!
Richard, we will think about it. Maybe after the Giraffe Bike is complete? Thanks for commenting.
Thanks
I'm looking forward to part two of the crank arm build. I don't have your patience. Great work as usual 👌
Thank you Andrew...
I've heard that a bit of paraffin wax on the saw blade can help with speeder cuts on sticky metals
Yes, that might work.. I do have proper blade wax for aluminum, for example. It's not that bronze is sticky, it's just very Tough. Thanks for watching....
The sound of bronze being cut with sharp machine tools is just so satisfying especially when it turns out so well, as usual😊
Yes, there is satisfaction there.. Thanks for watching!
Another great video! Really enjoy your explanation of the process and Mitch's film work and editing. Go Paul and Mitch, keep moving forward!
Thank you very much. We appreciate your comments...
Good job as usual, expecting now the end of the process to see the final result on the bike.
I would like to have time to make some nice projects as this one at home.
Thank you Paul for sharing all these tricks with us.
Thank you for watching and commenting...
I really like that these are shot in 4K. They look stunning on my TV.
That sounds good. Thanks for watching!!
Ha! I saw the bronze and wondered how tough it was, then I thought aluminum bronze is supposed to be tough as hell! And sure enough that's what you have! I wasn't prepared for the iron content I'll admit. I think I've heard of an iron bronze alloy but never saw an actual product. It's crazy they can alloy all three...
I think I know what you are saying, even though Spellcheck seems to be getting the better of you... Yes, 954 Bronze is very tough indeed. Thanks for watching!
@@paulbrodie yeah sometimes it's though er a tough competing with spell check. And hey, thanks for the reply! You're one of the good ones for sure. (Not that that was ever in contention.) 😉
Thanks Dan, all the best to you!
Another very interesting bit of Engineering perfection. Good to see you are much better Paul. Keep up the great projects for all to see. Dave from Australia
Thank you Dave, in Australia!
I love the crispy, crunchy, chirpy sound of bronze.
Nice job sir
I enjoy your videos a lot. I picked up a trick on threading. If you turn the cutting tool upside down and run the lathe in reverse you can thread with the tool coming away from the chuck instead of towards it. And you don't have the terror of stopping the feed on time. Looking forward to see more progress.
Yes, you can do it that way. The problem is that you have to machine a groove for the threading tool to be in to start the thread. This groove weakens the shaft a bit, especially if it is smaller in diameter. I like to thread up to the shoulder to alleviate the need for that groove. I'm pretty good at it by now, so I don't experience the "Terror" of stopping. Thanks for commenting...
wow paul killer machinist nice work i enjoyed that
Thank you very much. We appreciate your comments!
I love watching maching from a machinist of 45yrs 😊
Thanks Stephen.. Yes, manual machining is becoming a Lost Art....
We use that material for manufacturing bushings/bearings. Bunting Bearings and Brass
Yes, there are different grades of bronze depending on the application...
i'd stay here watching you building 800s bikes any day.
800 bikes? That is a LOT of work, and I would be very tired! Thanks for watching...
As the owner of a hundred-year-old Hercules bicycle (unrestored) made in Nottingham, England, most of the shiny bits were finished in nickel plating, not chrome. I could be wrong, but that’s what I understand. When I get around to restoring the thing, it’s going to be a beast to do, especially the nickel plating. Because it’ll get really expensive really quick to have it done right. But the finished project will be accurate and correct. This is my opinion from the peanut gallery, such as it is.
Chrome plating wasn’t used til 1929. Nickel before then.
I agree. My Hercules was made around 1924 and there’s some nickel on it that hasn’t flaked off yet.
Almost definitely nickel plating if it is 1920s.
Home nickel plating is quite possible but the kit isn't cheap.
If you do attempt it just remember the metal has to be clean, I mean really clean, I mean stupidly "don't touch it don't breathe on it" clean!
Then clean it some more😂
You are probably right about the nickel plating. Chrome didn't appear until the 1920's, or thereabouts, I believe. First used on a car bumper. Thanks for commenting!
👏👏👌
Cheers Chris
Hi Chris! I was thinking about you all the way down in Australia... Hope you are well..
@@paulbrodie all good here , very hot here up to 43C , haven’t been below 32c for about 8 weeks with humidity hovering around 70 to 90%
We don’t get snow here in northern Australia, I was working with both brass and bronze last week
We are obviously at opposite ends of the weather spectrum. Went down to freezing last night! But, my shop is warm and life is good. Have a great day!
Coming along nicely Paul!! If you're going to plate the parts you should Nickel Plate them instead of Chrome as back in those days they didn't have Chrome so everything was Nickel Plated. That and Nickel Plating looks so much better than Chrome, at least imo. 👍👍
I'd love to get into making bikes.... I've been a bike person as soon as I rode my first bike at 6 years old and I prefer it over all other modes of transportation. I was most likely Dutch in a past life... 😂
I had one of those chain links loose the clip on bit, rode to work for few days wondering what the new noise was, put a conventional split link in. Good idea to carry spare isn't it. Thanks for inspirational video.
5.28 that tapered shank locking pin is called a COTTER pin, locking pedal cranks to the chainwheel axle was almost its sole use.. the name cotter has been hijacked and incorrectly applied to SPLIT PINS ..
Another good video. Thanks Paul
Some fine work Mr Brodie, and the editing wasn’t to bad either Mitch😉
Try a coarser tooth blade on the band saw.
Apparently we do!!
Which was faster, the bandsaw or the belt sander?
Thanks for another fun video! I miss hearing the peacocks in the background... are they doing ok?
That bronze is unbelievably expensive, but it sure does machine beautifully. You said it has the same strength as chrome moly, is there any advantage in using bronze other than the looks? Thanks for the video. 👍
This build is really excellent... but a lot of us are anticipating the next hairdo
Joe Pie channel: Threading on a manual lathe BEST TECHNIQUE EVER !!!!
His anxiety delete demonstration of away from the chuck threading might be useful. Just flip the tool holder, CW chuck rotation and carriage feed set to right travel, away from chuck.
You can't "just flip the tool holder". You'd need a different tool.
OLD BULLION BAR BRODIE
👍
👍👍😎👍👍
Could you make it a little easier to buy you a coffee? I really would like a paypal possibility since I don’t want to spread my creditcard over the internet.
Cheers
Teun
Hi Teun, I asked Mitch and he says that PayPal is not an option for Buymeacoffee. Sorry. Using your credit card is safe at Buymeacoffee... We have had Zero problems over the years.. Thanks for your support..
“Took a while but turned out nice, thats why u need patience when your machining” one minute later “the hacksaw takes to long, lets try the belt sander”. So your just like the rest of us ehh. 😮
Some really nice and smart machining😎Always a pleasure watching your videos🙂