Building a Tom Ritchey inspired Bi-Plane Fork // paul brodie's shop
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- Опубликовано: 18 янв 2025
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#bicycle #fork #brodie #fussyframebuilder
The Ritchey / Bontrager / Brodie array is a sick trifecta of classic forks!
I would not dispute that.. Thanks for watching....
Lovely to see the Master, back in the shop
Back in the day I had the opportunity to visit Dave Moulton’s shop when he was located north of San Diego. I’d purchased one of his Fuso frames sometime earlier, and this was a chance to see the master in action. He had this really cool fork blade bending tool that he had bolted down to his work table. It had this pivoting arm that had a handle maybe a meter or so long. And with a fork blade locked in, it took Dave maybe five seconds to turn it out bent to the shape he wanted for his bikes.
You should interview Dave for your channel. Even if it’s by Zoom or whatever. Dave’s health lately apparently hasn’t been the best, and it would be a good thing to have a few words with him about his days as one of the more niche or cult framebuilders. He’s a treasure to the art and craft of frame building.
Thanks for watching and commenting. I used to have a raking tool when I was building a lot of Unicrown forks. Raking can be very fast when you are setup properly. The Gatorblade came out in 1988, so there was no need to rake anymore, so I took it apart and re-cycled the aluminum. I will keep Dave in mind for an interview in 2025...
I'm with you Paul on the arc going into the dropout. But I also agree that it aesthetic. Good work Mitch. I would say as usual, but this is getting even better. Great close-up shots. I is always a pleasure watching Paul figure things out.
Thank you Paul and Mitch. Hope you both have an enjoyable holiday season.
Cheers to the King of Fussy! Those little details are what makes the difference.
The notch on the back of the steer tube was to provide a place for the hanging brake cable housing stop to grip and not turn. Worked at a bike shop in the mid 90's and without that notch you could bang the hanger and cause the brakes on one side to rub the rim. Not sure younger riders would have experienced the joys of early mtb brakes.
The steerer tube keyway is for both cable hangers as well as lockings.
Oh the notches are there for centerpills back to the 1960s i suppose, but i thought it was just to keep a keyed washer in place ....
I'm learning lots about forks here. Familiar with Ekla and Vagner crowns that look like they have double plates but are (as far as I know) actually machined one-piece forgings. This is my first exposure to real double plates. Many thanks for the video Paul.
Merry Christmas Paul and Mitch!
I had to check for a second when you said you just hit 80K subscribers, I thought it would be much more, with you being such a legend in the framebuilding space and making such interesting videos!
Even If I was able to weld a frame together Id be scared riding it. Nice to see true craftsmen work.
I just bought an 86 Ritchey Ultra frame today. It needs a lot of work, but I've been looking for a good fork for it all day. I wish I had Paul's skills. I would just make one.
Thank you Paul and Mitch!
Another enjoyable video. Thanks, guys!
Congrats on 80k Subs Paul, you deserve it! Grea5 video as always 👍👍
even though i probably won't build i bike I always learn something about fabrication Thanks Very Much !
Cast a die set to press that bend into the fork, CARVE a block of foam that fits the fork nicely with a bit of extra material on each side, and under, and above the top die. With a 90° turn to a flat base from the drop out. And the top die, with a area to hold a couple 1/2"-1" guide rods
About 6" longer than the bend in the tube. Example: the tube going from flat to to a 2.5" dip in a straight tube. So bars 8.5" minimum or 10" -12" to be safe. To hold the dies straight while pressing the bend into the tubing.*AFTER THE FOAM is sanded smooth the top and bottom and top parallel with each other and the ends of the tube are to be. And the area to be . Also on each end a blank area to allow a tube and a bar to be pressed in with a spring long enough to remove the bent part from the dies. Possibly using a pin or bolt to align the drop out. And prevent the tube from moving when being pressed. Coat the foam in plaster slurry. Then a fine sand, allow the sand and slurry to dry them repeat . And allow to dry for 24+ hours. With the vents and spru, gates from foam attached, and coated with a ceramic funnel to get the aluminum to fill the foam. As it melts and turns to gas burning to nothing, first place the coated foam into a wood box and fill to the box to the funnel, and vibrate to settle the sand. Compacting it around the foam. Then it's ready to pour, for a cheap back yard foundry style pour. Go to the junk yard, buy damaged alloy rims cast pistons from small engines, crankcases from small engines. Break them up to fit in the crucible. Possibly melt 20-30lbs. Of silicon aluminum alloy (be certain to add a couple pistons to the alloy rims, the silicon will make the pour better, the molten alloy more water like and fluid. Flow better.. automobile pistons will also work. Possibly use 20% piston, 40% alloy rims, and 40% crank case or other engine parts,cylinder head, intake manifold, from junked engines not good parts!. And not aluminum cans.. (**if aluminum cans are used. Only use 20% or less by weight **)🔥 heat the aluminum until fluid flowing like water.. and quick pour into the mold. Lost foam casting can produce excellent professional looking parts. Drill and ream then Press in the guid tube and bar. The spring having a out 25-30 lbs closed pressure each plenty to open the die when the press pressure is released. Likely 3-4 times what is required. The 1" o.d. bar , and 1.008" I.D., roughly 1.25" o.d. tubing , either pressed in. Or threaded into the die
The roughly 3" wide dies, approximately 14" -18" or 24" wide and both about 12" tall in the compressed or closed position. The telescoping alignment rods having 3/16"-1/4" pins holding them together, in the open position.. possibly bolt a 3/8" steel plate milled flat from 1/2" flat 4" bar stock , using two 10" sections bolted to the dies, using four tapered cone seat allen head bolts possibly using 2" x 2" x 4" steel blocks as spacers to allow the press to do the work. If you can't buy it make it. Shop built tools are awesome , ✌️ enough rambling, HAPPY HOLIDAYS 🕊️
I have a Richard Sachs keychain bottle opener made from a notched dropout. I wonder if someone was making some Ritchey versions and ended up tossing them back into the parts bin.
Thanks for the video. 👍
Thanks so much for showing your skills!
Ritchey not what they used to be ! Fettled by Brodie! Good work Paul!
True, but it’s awesome ritchey is still around and Fergus is doing a great job of keeping the brand alive. Also, the new bikes ride great, still steel, lots of great handlebars too!
Nice rake
Nice forks.
My uncle was a mechanical engineer and my dad was an electrical engineer, and one thing I learned was to push the accuracy to the best of your ability!
Got my shirt the other day, looks great! Kudos on 80k.
Awesome!!
I would think hole in plate being 7/8" it would need an alignment plug to hold things together for brazing as well as having counterbore?
I love the biplane fork design. I learned about that curve at the bottom of the fork rake reading Rivendell catalogs, I can't un-see bad fork rakes now.
It was interesting at the very beginning, you seemed to be sneaking up on the threading spec. I hadn't thought of using a thread file to fine-tune the final fit, totally makes sense.
Love your work Paul , happy 2025 🍀👌
I went with a BiPlane for my fork when i designed it, such a classic look. Although i prefer half the rake numbers 😂
More bike stuff please!
man I want that beautiful fork hngggh, thanks Paul and Mitch
There's something really beautiful about a biplane fork, and I'd love one but I don't have any bikes with the right style to match a biplane fork unfortunately.
14:00 - Missed opportunity to say 369, damn girls fine..... 🤣🤣
I'm waiting for the Paul Brodie bobblehead.
When bicycle manufacturing shifted to Taiwan, you could spot their forks a mile away due to obvious doglegs halfway down the blades and not a single smooth radius in sight. Once I was made away of this I started paying a lot more attention to vintage mountain bike forks.
The Ritchey "Bi-Plane" crown is an almost exact copy of what Paris Cycles (London) were doing in the late 1940s. The Paris crowns used cast plates, but the finished crown looks near identical.
Awesome
Hi Paul, this is Ross's pal in Washington. Hope you're feeling good. Happy to be first
Hi Alan. Congrats on being first! I do get around to reading comments :) I hope you have a great Holiday Season, and all the best in 2025....
Was the point of the bi-plane fork to dampen vibration, or because it looked cool?
Yes.
@@LightBranches Also known as twin plate crowns. Been around for ever on road bikes. I guess they evolved as a way of making a crown without the expense of forged or cast components. Ironically you can buy ready made crowns that look like them, Pacenti Paris - Brest for example.
After cutting the steerer threads with the lathe, why did you run a file across them? It seemed like 1 run was inside the thread grooves and another was atop the threads, different reasons for each? I'm a noob i never used a lathe before, thanks!
Paul were is a good place to buy bike tubes all the parts to build frames
Did anyone catch where the biplane fork crown pieces were fabricated? Paul, did you make them?
That dropout with the notch almost looks like an open end wrench. Are they all the same?
The fork blades are a bunch of junk.
✨✨🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟✨✨👍
More aero.
😎👍
Do you know why Tom would have not raked the fork blades he provided for your build to match the vintage fork you had?
Wouldn't this be absolutely the lightest type of fork crown because its essentially a box crown with the front and back omitted (also used on late 60s / early 70s MASI road bikes ...)?
I'd ride that.
It feels like accuracy is worth following it to its best. I always love to be accurate, so I love what you’re doing❤❤❤All the best to both of you in front and behind the cameras🌟🌟🌟