My new to me 95 would occasionally surge from 500 to 1200 or so rpm on a cold start, show the CEL on the first minute of running, and generally be difficult to start. It had oil getting past the icp. New ICP and it’s an easy smooth start with no craziness. Thanks Stephen!
Everything you said was true, but you you forgot to mention a no start situation due to a bad cam shaft position sensor. I have a buddy who left his truck down for the 3 months chasing oil problems when finally it was the c.s.p. sensor. The 7.3 is sometimes so simple it's easy to over look the simplier things. I've had several of them and they all got over 400k miles plus and still going to this day
@@catfishsnagger3284 IPR valve is directly below the fuel bowl threaded towards the HPOP. I believe it is tested via the IPR duty cycle with a proper reader.
Hello dude.. Can you explain about the indication of the engine when the icp has problems,for example engine misfire,run rough,low power or any other symptom?
So I just got a 2001 7.3 loss of power and has sluggish idle…. I removed the ICP sensor and oil keeps leaking out the hole… does that mean something else is going on… I bought an aftermarket one I can’t afford the motorcraft at the moment …will be installing in the next day…I don’t have issues with crank…. I’ve disconnected the icp sensor and it cranks no problem.
Mine wants to start black smokes a lot fires a few times but dies, I’m thinking I’ve got a bad IPR, it’s new, but it’s China, I ordered a new Motorcraft OEM one will be here in a few days hopefully that’s the issue.
Second thing I would check in that scenario is the CPS. Especially if you haven't updated it to one of the new ones. That was my first and biggest problem back a number of years ago. Shut off while driving down the interstate, like you turned a switch and testing everything before I found out that was the culprit.
Looking for help, recommendations, or resources. I have a Ford 1995 7.3 F250 manual with 150,000 miles. I have a starting issue. For the most part it is sporadic and happens when I cut off the truck and try to start it again after 10 or 15 minutes. It will turn off but doesn’t start. If I wait about 30 or 40 minutes it usually starts right up. I have had it not start a couple of time (one of which currently now), after sitting a few days. But for the most part it always starts after it sits for a day or more. The last time it didn’t start after sitting for awhile, it just started again a few days later. Any help tracking down the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, did you ever figure out your restart problem? I have a friend with what sound like the exact same problem. I’d appreciate any info you may have discovered. Thanks.
That's an early 99 truck. You can tell because the V8 badge is on the fender by the headlights and not on the doors along with the missing air intake heater.
Hi , I have a 01 f250 7.3, 265000 miles, lately I’ve been having this slight miss at idle, and you can see the tach drop a little, starts fine, runs fine out of idle! Do you think it’s icp sensor ? Or something else?
Looking at buying a truck that has the 7.3 diesel engine, it starts great idles great but then you get on the highway and 2 miles down the road the engine just stops. Coast to the side of the road put it in park and it cranks right up again and off you go for about another mile or two. What do you think is wrong? Anyone that could help Thank you
I have a 2000 Ford F350 4WD Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel and I can’t find that wire on the passenger side that you do the “buzz” test with. I have seen other videos that you have done and others have done using that wire to turn over the engine. Why can’t I find it. I’m the only owner of this truck and unless a ship that worked on my truck has moved or removed the wire I’m at a loss as to what happed to it. Do you have any insight that you can share?
I know this video is old but hopefully you can get to this question. My truck has a jumpy idle. ICP is fairly new reads 80-100 psi while the engine is off don’t remember the voltage think it’s almost 1v. Is that normal with the engine off? Injectors are new ipr is new and HPOP is new. Got the p1211 after the HPOP install. Also the ipr will shoot up to 67% under a hard acceleration any knowledge is greatly appreciated
I would recommend replacing your MAP sensor, costs 30 bucks or so and takes 10 minutes to do. Cause I had similar symptoms with my truck and it was the MAP. Not only did it smoothen out the idle it increased my MPG by 1.8!
I'm assuming that your air filter is clean, besides for the MAP my guess would be the CPS is going out. Again only like 20-30 bucks, will take anywhere from 15-45 mins depending on how high off the ground your truck is.
So guys I got a dilemma I’ve been told by many people that could be my ICP or cps or ipr but nothing has confirmed it as to my research online it will start but shuts off once fully warmed up won’t start back until cooled down
You wasted a lot of time talking about nothing. I was really hoping to see you pull the icp and start the truck to see if oil came out to rule out oil pressure
You just diagnosed my 1999 F350’s starting issue. Thank you!!
You just got my 2002 F250 started. Thank you sir. I owe you a beer.
My new to me 95 would occasionally surge from 500 to 1200 or so rpm on a cold start, show the CEL on the first minute of running, and generally be difficult to start. It had oil getting past the icp. New ICP and it’s an easy smooth start with no craziness.
Thanks Stephen!
Everything you said was true, but you you forgot to mention a no start situation due to a bad cam shaft position sensor. I have a buddy who left his truck down for the 3 months chasing oil problems when finally it was the c.s.p. sensor. The 7.3 is sometimes so simple it's easy to over look the simplier things. I've had several of them and they all got over 400k miles plus and still going to this day
Thank you so much you saved me, I have been struggling fixing the problem with my 1997 7.3
Dont forget the IPR valve if bad will get you into a no start situation as well
Where is the ipr valve located and how is it tested?
@@catfishsnagger3284 IPR valve is directly below the fuel bowl threaded towards the HPOP. I believe it is tested via the IPR duty cycle with a proper reader.
Hello dude..
Can you explain about the indication of the engine when the icp has problems,for example engine misfire,run rough,low power or any other symptom?
When you said good and tight it made my morning😂🤙🏾aloha from Hawaii. Thank you for the help
So I just got a 2001 7.3 loss of power and has sluggish idle…. I removed the ICP sensor and oil keeps leaking out the hole… does that mean something else is going on… I bought an aftermarket one I can’t afford the motorcraft at the moment …will be installing in the next day…I don’t have issues with crank…. I’ve disconnected the icp sensor and it cranks no problem.
The ICP fixed my problem.
What's the parts number on the sensor in the video I've bought multiple sensors and none have the same threading
Mine wants to start black smokes a lot fires a few times but dies, I’m thinking I’ve got a bad IPR, it’s new, but it’s China, I ordered a new Motorcraft OEM one will be here in a few days hopefully that’s the issue.
Second thing I would check in that scenario is the CPS. Especially if you haven't updated it to one of the new ones. That was my first and biggest problem back a number of years ago. Shut off while driving down the interstate, like you turned a switch and testing everything before I found out that was the culprit.
Awesome video, just keep feeding those Dawgs and they will hang around forever haha
I changed it for the hell of it so I don’t have a problem
👍🏼😂👍🏼
I used a stubby gearwrench and a prybar, on the stubby, off of the alternator bracket. Real easy. Broke loose first push.
So my 7.3 runs and then dies and starts back up and I got oil on mine so do you think that is what it is
Looking for help, recommendations, or resources. I have a Ford 1995 7.3 F250 manual with 150,000 miles. I have a starting issue. For the most part it is sporadic and happens when I cut off the truck and try to start it again after 10 or 15 minutes. It will turn off but doesn’t start. If I wait about 30 or 40 minutes it usually starts right up. I have had it not start a couple of time (one of which currently now), after sitting a few days. But for the most part it always starts after it sits for a day or more. The last time it didn’t start after sitting for awhile, it just started again a few days later. Any help tracking down the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, did you ever figure out your restart problem? I have a friend with what sound like the exact same problem. I’d appreciate any info you may have discovered. Thanks.
That's an early 99 truck. You can tell because the V8 badge is on the fender by the headlights and not on the doors along with the missing air intake heater.
Hi , I have a 01 f250 7.3, 265000 miles, lately I’ve been having this slight miss at idle, and you can see the tach drop a little, starts fine, runs fine out of idle! Do you think it’s icp sensor ? Or something else?
What did u figure out?
Same issue man you figure it out
Same here... If I unplug the icp while it idles down and rough it corrects itself and runs smooth.
Anyone??
@@1rolmos if unplugging you ICP makes it idle better than it is probably faulty.
Looking at buying a truck that has the 7.3 diesel engine, it starts great idles great but then you get on the highway and 2 miles down the road the engine just stops. Coast to the side of the road put it in park and it cranks right up again and off you go for about another mile or two. What do you think is wrong? Anyone that could help Thank you
Cam sensor
Go to www.powerstrokehelp.com for the most useful diagnostics for 7.3 engines. That and check your filters and such. Good luck to you!
Check Diesel Tech Ron’s videos. He was best before tragically killed.
Try replacing your IPR valve
Crankshaft position sensor caused this problem for me.
I have a 2000 Ford F350 4WD Crew Cab 7.3 Diesel and I can’t find that wire on the passenger side that you do the “buzz” test with. I have seen other videos that you have done and others have done using that wire to turn over the engine. Why can’t I find it. I’m the only owner of this truck and unless a ship that worked on my truck has moved or removed the wire I’m at a loss as to what happed to it. Do you have any insight that you can share?
Look underneath the vacuum pump’s box
On my 03, crew cab 7.3 it runs along the padsenger side of the engine bay, up high on inside wall of fender, just below the hood gutter
Oh yeah forgot to mention I was told I needed a new transmission! But I’m 99.9% sure this is the issue!
Can the icp sensor cause no fuel to get into the bowl?
Also wondering this
I know this video is old but hopefully you can get to this question. My truck has a jumpy idle. ICP is fairly new reads 80-100 psi while the engine is off don’t remember the voltage think it’s almost 1v. Is that normal with the engine off? Injectors are new ipr is new and HPOP is new. Got the p1211 after the HPOP install. Also the ipr will shoot up to 67% under a hard acceleration any knowledge is greatly appreciated
I would recommend replacing your MAP sensor, costs 30 bucks or so and takes 10 minutes to do. Cause I had similar symptoms with my truck and it was the MAP. Not only did it smoothen out the idle it increased my MPG by 1.8!
I'm assuming that your air filter is clean, besides for the MAP my guess would be the CPS is going out. Again only like 20-30 bucks, will take anywhere from 15-45 mins depending on how high off the ground your truck is.
@@jamesb1988 after doing some research found on the scanner that my ICP was no good and my IPR was sticking open at idle.
@@brandon22333 Oh yup that'll do it! Glad you got it worked out :)
So thankful I found this!!
"German tight " "Goodn tight " lol 😂
I've unplugged my icp and not only does it start but it seems to run better..what's up with that?
That means ICP censor/pigtail is bad 100%
Right... that's where I'm at now.still can't figure it out.just replace it??
What about truck dying randomly but cranks right back up
Dogs know the fence is on the can feel it without touching it just like horses can
Thank you very much this was helpful
Thank u, that was really helpful,
I unplugged it, ran for 10 seconds, died back out. Next step?
PLEASE HELP 7.3 ICP sensor insert hole has stripped out threads.
retap
Ur faked
Dude, thanks bro. 👍🙏✊🏼
Will a faulty sensor ICP set a CEL?
Yes
My truck starts up every time but while I’m driving it and I hit a bump it shuts off
That's your CPS sensor going out, guaranteed.
@@jamesb1988 when I turn the steering wheel, the engine dies
Whats the part number
Thank for the video it helps
Look into getting an alpaca to help fend off those coyotes.
Thanks for the help.
I c p same as CPS sensor ???
ICP is injection control pressure sensor.
CPS is Crankshaft Position Sensor.
So guys I got a dilemma I’ve been told by many people that could be my ICP or cps or ipr but nothing has confirmed it as to my research online it will start but shuts off once fully warmed up won’t start back until cooled down
Good video
that is an early 99
Or your camshaft position sensor is bad
thanku,,cheers
hate to have to sit thru all the garbage talk about everything except what i clicked on to hear
Maybe an early 99
9/16 = 14mm
ICP made awful music
Lol
Buy icp and get rich in a couple years!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well you ain’t Diesel Tech Ron.
Dude man is good enough to post helpful stuff and you post this crap. Get a life.
Only Diesel Tech Ron is Diesel Tech Ron. What does that have to do with the price of tea in China?
You wasted a lot of time talking about nothing. I was really hoping to see you pull the icp and start the truck to see if oil came out to rule out oil pressure
Thanks for the information.