thanks for some great tips. Just one thing, I would extend the heat shrink all the way to the pellet feeder. It may tame both noise and barrel resonances.
Your shot tube end play..... I've found that old (or new) abutment seals for a small chamber Daisys (25, 96, 99, ect.) are a perfect fit inside the 1938 barrel. The center hole in the abutment seal will have to reamed out a tiny bit to help the 1938 shot tube pass through. I usually place the modified seal halfway between the trap door and the barrel end/sight. The end result is a shot tube that's dead center in the barrel and rock solid, even without the end on the barrel. I also use this trick when making a 1938 long rifle. It really helps stabilize the longer shot tube if you place one midway.
Hi Jonathan have you had a redryder that is shooting High no matter how I adjust the rear sight I can't it it to shot lower any help it is a model 111-40 thank Jonathan. oldgeorge
Depending on the amount of use, I would suggest a replacement shot tube, maybe a good cleaning with an airgun cleaning kit may work as well? Check the shot tube with a straight edge possibly and form it back to shape,by rolling it on a hard surface? Some ideas
Did you see the assembly with rollers on my site I put in my 1980 s red Ryder it sure makes it smooth cocking and shooting even with just the weak spring it's faster than a stock red Ryder but with the spacer pretty mean lol lol but I normally sand the air chamber for a hour with 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper then buff it for a hour with some fine cut buffing compound match that with a long 327 spring it will put you over 400 fps easyly with a big bore air tube of of course but yeh if that air venturi rail would except a 327 spring with all that work I'm sure it would be very close to 500 fps but it won't fit but I see you can put rollers on a daisy mechanism spring rail it has plenty of room for it why don't you try it bud it will make you famous lol yes
@@Builder-of-Kool-Stuff they can be made with a daisy mechanism just as easy just a pin and a small spacer with two little rollers on each side of the barrel. Spacer you can build the same thing easy this one came out of a air venturi John Wayne bb gun I had to drill cut and shorten some parts but now it's very nice shooting
thanks for some great tips. Just one thing, I would extend the heat shrink all the way to the pellet feeder. It may tame both noise and barrel resonances.
Your shot tube end play..... I've found that old (or new) abutment seals for a small chamber Daisys (25, 96, 99, ect.) are a perfect fit inside the 1938 barrel. The center hole in the abutment seal will have to reamed out a tiny bit to help the 1938 shot tube pass through. I usually place the modified seal halfway between the trap door and the barrel end/sight. The end result is a shot tube that's dead center in the barrel and rock solid, even without the end on the barrel.
I also use this trick when making a 1938 long rifle. It really helps stabilize the longer shot tube if you place one midway.
Thanks for the tech tip bro!
You bet!
If you try make 3D printer front sight and added silencer muzzle maybe help little increase fps?
Definitely no need to split the shroud open, bending the metal like that. The front sight is easily knocked out with a gentle tap.
I really like the V shaped rear sight!
But I just got nail polish on the front I ant filing it 😁
Nice simple mod!
Indeed!
A file cuts on the push stroke not the pull
It depends what type of file you as well. 👉
Hi Jonathan have you had a redryder that is shooting High no matter how I adjust the rear sight I can't it it to shot lower any help it is a model 111-40 thank Jonathan. oldgeorge
Depending on the amount of use, I would suggest a replacement shot tube, maybe a good cleaning with an airgun cleaning kit may work as well? Check the shot tube with a straight edge possibly and form it back to shape,by rolling it on a hard surface? Some ideas
Did you see the assembly with rollers on my site I put in my 1980 s red Ryder it sure makes it smooth cocking and shooting even with just the weak spring it's faster than a stock red Ryder but with the spacer pretty mean lol lol but I normally sand the air chamber for a hour with 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper then buff it for a hour with some fine cut buffing compound match that with a long 327 spring it will put you over 400 fps easyly with a big bore air tube of of course but yeh if that air venturi rail would except a 327 spring with all that work I'm sure it would be very close to 500 fps but it won't fit but I see you can put rollers on a daisy mechanism spring rail it has plenty of room for it why don't you try it bud it will make you famous lol yes
So where is your "site" I would like to see the roller?
T.C.
@@Builder-of-Kool-Stuff they can be made with a daisy mechanism just as easy just a pin and a small spacer with two little rollers on each side of the barrel. Spacer you can build the same thing easy this one came out of a air venturi John Wayne bb gun I had to drill cut and shorten some parts but now it's very nice shooting
I believe he is termed his Facebook page as a site. He can be found at 'viking hawk forge' in the search bar
@@blackbarrelcustoms3704 OK Sorry I dont do Facebook so I'll use my imagination.
T.C.
@@Builder-of-Kool-Stuff it's a little odd. A roller bushing set up on the tail end high side of the plunger assembly if that helps