Thank you... I have never found anything that explains an actual diagnostic test on the Catalytic converter like this. I am just finding out that there is meant to be a temperature difference.
I'm a little late to this video, but you did a fantastic job, bud. Detailed information, easy to read overlays, clear and concise. Couldn't ask for more. Also, THANK YOU, for adding the little tidbit about how plants (especially trees) thrive off the compounds found in converted exhaust. It always amazes me that so few people know this. I could swear I've been taught since 3rd grade that trees need these compounds to make the oxygen we breathe. 👍
Thanks very much for your comment. You are spot on. I can’t believe how people have forgotten their basic science. And the bias against carbon is palpable and alarming.
@@DrivingIntelligenceJust like diet and exercise, there's supposed to be a balance. Just because there's a ton of CO2, doesn't mean the trees get to feast, they still need nitrogen and phosphorus.
Hello I have a similar issue 2013 explorer limited we just replaced bank 2 cat and o2 sensor and check engine came back on after 100 miles . Truck has about 107 k miles . The code it was throwing p0430 . Any advice would be helpful . Thanks
Generally speaking, the downstream catalytic converters don't normally impact fuel economy nor power. If you have a P0420, go through the steps I outline in the video and pinpoint the issue.
Hello 👋, my issue here is having a very bad acceleration and high gas consumption, i checked the cat and it gave me more than 100° C between inlet and outlet(which means good),also I have changed the o2 sensor 2 bank 2. Unfortunately, it didn't solve the issue. However, when I installed that metal thing, the check engine light was gone, but i still have the same issue. Could you help me please 🙏
Really not enough information to go on. You don't have any diagnostic trouble codes? Have you checked your fuel filter? Air filter? Mass Airflow Sensor is clean? Could be many issues.
Still very hard for me to assist from afar. Did you clear your codes after you installed the defouler? If not, the P0430 might be s remnant from before your repair. The poor acceleration and high fuel consumption could be from other issues. How many miles on your vehicle and what other maintenance has been performed?
@@DrivingIntelligence I have the same issue: a P0430 code and poor acceleration. I went to the workshop, and they checked it. It turned out that there were some leaks in the exhaust, and I only had a P0430 code. I fixed all the leaks and cleaned the catalytic converter and throttle using Liqui Moly solution. I deleted the code and reset the car, but I didn't achieve any results. After that, I changed sensor number 2 (bank 2, sensor 2), but I still didn't get any results. Also, I checked the Catalyst using a thermometer and found that the inlet temperature is significantly lower than the outlet temperature. More than 100 degrees (which means it is good) Finally, I bought an oxygen sensor separator (for bank 2 sensor 2), and after doing a factory reset, the engine light didn't appear. However, I noticed an increase in fuel consumption, and the car's torque and acceleration are still weak.
I have a heavy exhaust smell in my 2014 explorer. Got both codes plus p1450 for the canister. Would any of these codes cause the heavy exhaust smell. It only smells when the heat is on.
I have that code but no miss fires I was running the explorer with a broken neck filler flap for a while but I cover the gas hole with a plastic bag every time I got gas I replace that neck filler and now I have this code and my car runs rough when it’s cold and the performance gets gets better as I drive the car hope you can guide me
I put in a Rislone cat cleaner and that thing turned off the check engine I followed the instructions and it did it job but it still running a little rough just on the take off. I got codes p0430 & p0457 and a abs code u3003-16 & u3003-17. The battery is new but comes up as bad in the cranking
@@DrivingIntelligence some guy put the big machine code reader yesterday and it said nothing but bad battery and camera not working so it’s really confusing it was a nice computer like 10k
@@THEMAKDON looks like you've got an EVAP problem as well. I'd start off by checking the plugs. When was the last time you changed your plugs? ruclips.net/video/dtOMOYMDRAE/видео.htmlsi=IWlsZnPqa9leOhvi
@@DrivingIntelligence I have never changed them sense I got the car 3 years ago I don’t know if the previous owner changed them but I don’t have a misfire when it’s on idle it’s running perfectly even runs amazingly on the freeway without issues just on the take off you can hear like it’s can’t breath for a few seconds it sounds like a plugged air filter or like I have no filter but my filter is clean it’s one of those washables I cleaned it already
Hey so I have a question I just left the dealer after chasing a misfire on my 08 ford edge it's 90 percent misfiring but some time while driving it kicks back to normal but long story short dealer claims the misfire is due to bad cat it's only missing on cylinder 3 but does that sound correct an if so could I use the spacer on my o2 or would I be better off replacing the cats
Your misfire is very unlikely connected to the cat. The cat codes are likely due to the misfire. Also, your P0353 Code: Ignition Coil "C" Primary/Secondary Circuit indicates a problem with spark on plug 3. Check the coil, plug and then the fuel injector. The spacer will not solve your misfire, but could eliminate the catalytic converter codes.
@@DrivingIntelligence hey I just seen this I already replaced the coil plugs had the pcm looked at also compression test done an also replaced injector on that cylinder an finally took it to the dealer an they said it's all cat related due to back pressure from the cats idk if that's correct or not but idk what else to do at this point
@@MarkS-xh7mr ok, wow... well, I'm not sure why there is only one misfire code if both cats are bad. How does the car drive? Complete lack of power? If you have very very low power, it could be a plugged cat. One way to test for plugged cats is to pull the upstream O2 sensors and see if it runs any better. You'll get a code since the O2 sensors are removed, but the hole allows exhaust to escape returning some exhaust flow to the engine. Make sense? If you do this, make sure to disconnect the O2 sensors from the harness to prevent damage.
@@DrivingIntelligence hey should I take both out or just the one on the effected side of the misfire an also I'm gonna try to post a video on here of my live graph on the o2s an also my fuel trim at some point soon maybe that could kinda help with someone helping me. My apologies I'm just learning on how to use live graphs an not really to good at it yet
Be sure to subscribe to my channel, all tools and parts I use are linked in the description of every video: Universal Car Sensor, Spacer M18*1.5 Adapter: www.walmart.com/ip/387450397
Do you have the same code as noted in this video? If you do, you need to follow my test procedures EXACTLY to determine the fault. I cannot diagnose without doing all the tests I recommend in this video. Let me know...
Hi, thanks for this video. I’m outside the US and I have this problem on my 2015 Ford Explorer Sport, can you tell me the exact model you use to not make the mistake and order the wrong one. Thanks in advance.
Hi, are you referring to the defouler I used? If so, the link is in the description of my video and should provide the info you need to purchase from abroad.
@@DrivingIntelligenceI was looking at your video again and apparently your problem was in the bank 2, mine is in bank 1 now I’m lost to where should I put the defouler.
Bank 2 as you likely know is the side of a "V" engine that starts with either spark plug 4 or 5. For the 3.5 engine, spark plug 4 is on the radiator side of the vehicle, hence, the radiator side is Bank 2.
@@DrivingIntelligence thank you for your response to my question. Apparently I did change the bank 2 downstream sensor and did not make a mistake like I thought, I still have the p0430 code. My check engine light has come back on again after changing that sensor. There is no other issues the car runs like a champ. I thought if it was a catalytic converter it would have put out the p0420 code. Is it possible it's one of the catalytic converters without throwing the code?
I have a 2013 ford explorer xlt v6 with the P0430 code. Car jerks on acceleration between 30-4mph and then goes back to normal but once I stop it does the same thing and engine starts surging during the event. Would that likely be an o2 bank 2 or catalytic converter
That is not likely anything to do with the catalytic converter. How many miles on your Explorer? You could have a transmission problem. Normally the torque converter locks up at about 40mph and if your cat is going bad, could cause a vibration or surging at the speed. There could be other issues causing this as well. Do you have other diagnostic trouble codes?
@@DrivingIntelligence hello I got the same problem po430 or 420 the check engine light turn on and sometime leave and turn on again and when it reaches 40 it starts to jerk, it doesn't vibrate or anything, it just has a hard time gaining strength to reach 60. I've been to many workshops and they tell me it's the catalyst. They checked the transmission and it's fine. The engine is fine. It has 155k and it started. When I had 100k, I already put cataclean on it and it didn't work. The muffler shops charge me around 1300 to 2500 for change one catalyst
@@victormercado4608 This is tough to diagnose over the internet... are they saying the catalytic converter is plugged? A bad cat will not impact driving or engine performance. Are there any symptoms at idle? Or it runs fine at idle? Now that you shared your vehicle has trouble accelerating to 60, that could be a sign of a plugged cat. What size engine is in your Explorer?
Wonder if you might be willing to share your insights. I have a 2014 Explorer V6. I go for 100 miles or more with no check engine light. Then I get a P0430 code. Engine is running fine, no misses, no other codes. Looking at my scanner B1 & B2 readings are fairly consistent for B1S1/B2S1 voltages (although B2 is slightly lower at about 0.815v on B2 vs 0.850v on B1). Cat temps stay w/in 1° of each other and show about 950°F at operating temp. B1S2 & B2S2 current show similar amperage (3 different scanners only give me the option to look at amperage for S2 sensors; not sure why). Short term fuel shows similar values (again, slightly lower on B2). Code has presented while driving, but most often right at start-up (e.g., not on when the car is last shut off, on while cranking). I have noticed the car takes a few (3-4) seconds to start vs almost immediate but that does not seem to correlate to triggering the P0430 code. Thoughts on what to look at? I can record live data if it would help.
Hey Rob, after reading your issue, my first suspicion is a faulty or weak downstream O2 sensor that kinda wakes up when the exhaust gets good and hot. The O2 sensors need to get to a required operating temperature to work properly. This is why there is a heater circuit in the O2 sensor that gets the vehicle into closed loop operation more quickly. Have you measured the temperatures of your catalytic converter as shown in the video? Are you sure the bank 2 cat is in good working order? Also, I'm assuming you don't have broken wiring since you have no other codes and the issue is intermittent. The only thing I can suggest without seeing the vehicle is to replace the downstream O2 sensor. Here is a downstream sensor on Amazon... if you buy through this link, I get a little money to cover my channel without costing you more: amzn.to/3JMPuta
@@DrivingIntelligence Wow! Thanks for that quick reply! I really appreciate and if I get (another) O2 sensor, I will absolutely use the link. I did measure the temps and the cat (bank 2) seems to be working (and temps are consistent between the two cats too). I replaced the Bank 2 sensor with a new one when this started about 6 weeks ago. The code was gone for several weeks but came back with the same symptoms. I suppose the O2 sensor could have gone bad, but I doubt it. I'm wondering if I might have a vacuum leak on the intake that closes up as it warms. Does that sound far fetched? Unfortunately, I deleted the data before viewing the freeze data so I have to wait until the code comes back before seeing if it gives any clues.
@@rficalora Ah, ok, I don't think I saw you had already replaced the O2 sensor. A vacuum leak is possible, but not likely at the intake, more likely an exhaust leak that is allowing oxygen to reach the downstream O2 sensor. Do you hear any ticking at startup? This could indicate an exhaust leak. An exhaust leak could close itself off as the exhaust warms. You can use a smoke tester to find the leak. Any small leaks downstream of the B2S2 O2 sensor are not important.
The anti fouler I was able to find is a bit differnt, has a pin hole rather than a grate/grill at the end: this worked for a few days, then it started thrpwing a cat too lean code, do you think I can simply make the pin hole larger or drill it out completely or should I find a different style antifouler?
Ok somine had just a pin hole compared to the one you showed in video, I drilled it to 1/4", also it was loose, i guess running it shook it loose, letting more clear air in, thus the lean. I am gonna run it now an report back: never thought Id wish for dirtier air, but it needs to be in the expected band.
Thanks. All i gotta do is measure the cat temps to see if i gotta replace it .. i had a bank 1 sensor 2 code i replaced the sensor. And erased the codes. The o2 sensor code is gone now. The only one that came back is p0420. I will check the temps tomorrow.
Thanks for the question... the de-fouler will not improve idle or engine performance if used on the down-stream sensors. It only fools the computer to think the cat is functioning properly. Sounds like you have another issue. Do you have a check engine light?
Hi there, thanks for letting me know. Try this link: Universal Car Sensor, Spacer Adapter Extender Eliminator, M18*1.5 Adapter Check Engine Light Fix Extension www.walmart.com/ip/462292709
Would I pass smog test if I do that? Just looking for the cheapest way to make it pass the test. If no codes on the ECU I’m good to go right? They do the test in NV only by the obd2 port.
@@caracas4wd Then you should be ok, but again, I can't guarantee. The device fools the ECU into thinking everything is ok, therefore, the smog check should also be fooled.
I stop leaving usb charger plugged in after I charge my phone I unplug it for the vehicle I think it has to do with voltage being padsed through our the vehicle
@@DrivingIntelligence i think the voltage is not being distributed efficiently although i am not certified to say its the problem i unplugged my phone charger adapter from the cigarette outlet and the code went away after driving a couple of miles 🙃
I’m having the same issue. The Dorman 42009 seems to be too shallow to allow the O2 sensor to fully seat. Did you drill out the bottom or use a different model?
I didn't have this problem, screwed in with no problem. Since this seems to be a new problem with the Dorman part, I'm changing the link in my description to the Walmart part that matches mine: www.walmart.com/ip/Car-Oxygen-O2-Sensor-Adapter-CEL-Fix-Check-Engine-Light-Eliminator-M18-1-5/919177346?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101345728&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=aud-430887228898:pla-51320962143&wl5=9051588&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=736905819&wl11=online&wl12=919177346_101345728&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw29ymBhAKEiwAHJbJ8o0Ao19J2ZVH7VivBF-xyMvbgGzjc9ujIOcwdOx8jXlJvpMfHzlynBoCfgMQAvD_BwE
So IF someone has the P0430 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 2. IF its an O2 sensor its one the the 2 closest to the top side of engine by hood Correct ? Cuase Ford said I have 4
P0430 means you have a catalytic converter problem, not an O2 Sensor problem. You need to follow the steps laid out in my video to confirm the cause of your diagnostic trouble code. P0430 is not telling you to change O2 sensors.
Came here to research why I just got a code (2012 Ford Explorer) at just over 100k miles for a P0420. I am guessing the O2 sensor now. It probably needs new plugs but I was putting that off because I have to remove the intake manifold to do that.
@@DrivingIntelligence I will do my best with my limited tools. I haven't had to diagnose cars for 36 years. It has been idling rough lately and on very cold days if I try to accelerate onto the freeway the check engine light will flash with a misfire and the car will shake a bit. When it warms up it is fine. Always something.
@poetry256 be careful with misfires, check this video: How Engine Misfires Damage A Catalytic Converter: Causes Of Catalytic Converter Damage P0420 & P0430 ruclips.net/video/84iKlArdjkI/видео.html
on my 2016 fore explorer I have the codes for catylitic banks and just yesterday my horn stop working I pur mu dresser in the back of the truck after folding the seats down because I am moving and the horn works again and the codes left
@@DrivingIntelligence Thank you. Had codes for both cats. Also, how is your water pump holding up? Did it ever need replaced? I have a '17 Sport. Just installed a fouler on the front today, may do back if I still have code. I had to drill out the center of my foulers.
Hey there, the Explorer in this video is not mine. It runs like a champ. Of course, I take care of it for the owner ;) I don’t understand why you drilled out the defoulers… the hole is sized properly.
@@DrivingIntelligence Hey! You are a saint for replying, I tremendously appreciate it. I have codes P0420 & P0430. I put defoulers on and code is still there. Does that mean the O2 sensors most likely are bad? I am tired of throwing parts at it!
I wish you was in AL so you could work on my 2017 Explorer xlt change spark plug ? Coils , and fuel injector still getting misfire on 1 and 5 I wonder if it’s the computer
Thanks for that comment. Have you changed your spark plugs and coils? If not, first step before looking at a computer issue, but depends on miles driven, and you should get a good scan of your entire system.
@@DrivingIntelligence thank you for responding yes I have gotten the sparks change and coil packs and fuel injectors. I have an independent shop running test on it now to see what is causing the misfire.
Hey was wondering if I would get a link for the foulers, i have a 2015 explorer eco boost with the same issue. I wasn’t sure which ones to order so I was wondering would be so kind! Gave you a like and a follow 🙏🏻
Good question! But it works. I prefer replacement of the cat to be environmentally conscious, but it’s very expensive. You need to use an infrared thermometer to determine if your cat is bad or good.
hi, thanks for your comment. What exactly did you do? Replace the catalytic converter or use the spacer? This could be a defective downstream O2 sensor.
I just watched this video... Did I miss something very important in the video? All I took away was a device being used to mask/ trick the scanner and the onboard computer into thinking everything is hunky dorry. Eventually this will take a large chunk out of your wallet as it is biting you in the ass
There's ALWAYS a work-around.
Good to hear from you… I was starting to get worried!
@@DrivingIntelligence Oh I pop up now and again.
Glad to hear it, when’s your next vid?
@@DrivingIntelligence I'll have one out this weekend if everything goes right.
Thank you... I have never found anything that explains an actual diagnostic test on the Catalytic converter like this. I am just finding out that there is meant to be a temperature difference.
glad to have helped
I'm a little late to this video, but you did a fantastic job, bud. Detailed information, easy to read overlays, clear and concise. Couldn't ask for more. Also, THANK YOU, for adding the little tidbit about how plants (especially trees) thrive off the compounds found in converted exhaust. It always amazes me that so few people know this. I could swear I've been taught since 3rd grade that trees need these compounds to make the oxygen we breathe. 👍
Thanks very much for your comment. You are spot on. I can’t believe how people have forgotten their basic science. And the bias against carbon is palpable and alarming.
@@DrivingIntelligenceJust like diet and exercise, there's supposed to be a balance. Just because there's a ton of CO2, doesn't mean the trees get to feast, they still need nitrogen and phosphorus.
Ok… and what also comes out of a tailpipe, yes! N2 & water!
Hello I have a similar issue 2013 explorer limited we just replaced bank 2 cat and o2 sensor and check engine came back on after 100 miles . Truck has about 107 k miles . The code it was throwing p0430 . Any advice would be helpful . Thanks
Are you getting the same code? What codes are you getting now?
Yes po420 will that be the cause of me burning gas while accelerating
Generally speaking, the downstream catalytic converters don't normally impact fuel economy nor power. If you have a P0420, go through the steps I outline in the video and pinpoint the issue.
Hello 👋, my issue here is having a very bad acceleration and high gas consumption, i checked the cat and it gave me more than 100° C between inlet and outlet(which means good),also I have changed the o2 sensor 2 bank 2. Unfortunately, it didn't solve the issue. However, when I installed that metal thing, the check engine light was gone, but i still have the same issue. Could you help me please 🙏
Really not enough information to go on. You don't have any diagnostic trouble codes? Have you checked your fuel filter? Air filter? Mass Airflow Sensor is clean? Could be many issues.
Sorry, I didn't mention the code. It's p0430 same as your client
Still very hard for me to assist from afar. Did you clear your codes after you installed the defouler? If not, the P0430 might be s remnant from before your repair. The poor acceleration and high fuel consumption could be from other issues. How many miles on your vehicle and what other maintenance has been performed?
@@DrivingIntelligence
I have the same issue: a P0430 code and poor acceleration.
I went to the workshop, and they checked it. It turned out that there were some leaks in the exhaust, and I only had a P0430 code. I fixed all the leaks and cleaned the catalytic converter and throttle using Liqui Moly solution. I deleted the code and reset the car, but I didn't achieve any results.
After that, I changed sensor number 2 (bank 2, sensor 2), but I still didn't get any results. Also, I checked the Catalyst using a thermometer and found that the inlet temperature is significantly lower than the outlet temperature. More than 100 degrees (which means it is good)
Finally, I bought an oxygen sensor separator (for bank 2 sensor 2), and after doing a factory reset, the engine light didn't appear. However, I noticed an increase in fuel consumption, and the car's torque and acceleration are still weak.
@ahmads8019 what’s coming to mind with this complaint is the possibility of a clogged catalytic converter.
Anyone found where you can get the spacers? Link is out of stock.
Hi, sorry for that, I linked another you can find at 3:49 in the video. A link will pop up on the screen.
I have a heavy exhaust smell in my 2014 explorer. Got both codes plus p1450 for the canister. Would any of these codes cause the heavy exhaust smell. It only smells when the heat is on.
P1450 might be your problem with a fuel smell. You might have a leak in your EVAP system
I have that code but no miss fires I was running the explorer with a broken neck filler flap for a while but I cover the gas hole with a plastic bag every time I got gas I replace that neck filler and now I have this code and my car runs rough when it’s cold and the performance gets gets better as I drive the car hope you can guide me
that's hard to diagnose from a distance. Do you have other diagnostic trouble codes?
I put in a Rislone cat cleaner and that thing turned off the check engine I followed the instructions and it did it job but it still running a little rough just on the take off. I got codes p0430 & p0457 and a abs code u3003-16 & u3003-17. The battery is new but comes up as bad in the cranking
@@DrivingIntelligence some guy put the big machine code reader yesterday and it said nothing but bad battery and camera not working so it’s really confusing it was a nice computer like 10k
@@THEMAKDON looks like you've got an EVAP problem as well. I'd start off by checking the plugs. When was the last time you changed your plugs? ruclips.net/video/dtOMOYMDRAE/видео.htmlsi=IWlsZnPqa9leOhvi
@@DrivingIntelligence I have never changed them sense I got the car 3 years ago I don’t know if the previous owner changed them but I don’t have a misfire when it’s on idle it’s running perfectly even runs amazingly on the freeway without issues just on the take off you can hear like it’s can’t breath for a few seconds it sounds like a plugged air filter or like I have no filter but my filter is clean it’s one of those washables I cleaned it already
Hey so I have a question I just left the dealer after chasing a misfire on my 08 ford edge it's 90 percent misfiring but some time while driving it kicks back to normal but long story short dealer claims the misfire is due to bad cat it's only missing on cylinder 3 but does that sound correct an if so could I use the spacer on my o2 or would I be better off replacing the cats
All my codes also a 0420 0430 an p0353
Your misfire is very unlikely connected to the cat. The cat codes are likely due to the misfire. Also, your P0353 Code: Ignition Coil "C" Primary/Secondary Circuit indicates a problem with spark on plug 3. Check the coil, plug and then the fuel injector. The spacer will not solve your misfire, but could eliminate the catalytic converter codes.
@@DrivingIntelligence hey I just seen this I already replaced the coil plugs had the pcm looked at also compression test done an also replaced injector on that cylinder an finally took it to the dealer an they said it's all cat related due to back pressure from the cats idk if that's correct or not but idk what else to do at this point
@@MarkS-xh7mr ok, wow... well, I'm not sure why there is only one misfire code if both cats are bad. How does the car drive? Complete lack of power? If you have very very low power, it could be a plugged cat. One way to test for plugged cats is to pull the upstream O2 sensors and see if it runs any better. You'll get a code since the O2 sensors are removed, but the hole allows exhaust to escape returning some exhaust flow to the engine. Make sense? If you do this, make sure to disconnect the O2 sensors from the harness to prevent damage.
@@DrivingIntelligence hey should I take both out or just the one on the effected side of the misfire an also I'm gonna try to post a video on here of my live graph on the o2s an also my fuel trim at some point soon maybe that could kinda help with someone helping me. My apologies I'm just learning on how to use live graphs an not really to good at it yet
How do I get one of the extentions? I have a 2016 explorer with 140,000. Thank you
Be sure to subscribe to my channel, all tools and parts I use are linked in the description of every video: Universal Car Sensor, Spacer M18*1.5 Adapter: www.walmart.com/ip/387450397
I changed the upper censer but still have the code if I change the bottom one would it help?
Do you have the same code as noted in this video? If you do, you need to follow my test procedures EXACTLY to determine the fault. I cannot diagnose without doing all the tests I recommend in this video. Let me know...
Hi, thanks for this video.
I’m outside the US and I have this problem on my 2015 Ford Explorer Sport, can you tell me the exact model you use to not make the mistake and order the wrong one. Thanks in advance.
Hi, are you referring to the defouler I used? If so, the link is in the description of my video and should provide the info you need to purchase from abroad.
@@DrivingIntelligence yes the defouler. I check and they run out at Walmart. That’s why I ask you for the specific model. I’ll check again thanks.
@jvvb28 oops, sorry about that, try this one: STAINLESS STEEL O2 Sensor Extension Car Cel Fix Check Engine Light Eliminator Adapter Oxygen M18X1.5 45mm 1.77in, 2-Pack - www.walmart.com/ip/387450397
@@DrivingIntelligence Perfect, that’s available. I’m going to order those, hope they fit. Thanks again for your time.
@@DrivingIntelligenceI was looking at your video again and apparently your problem was in the bank 2, mine is in bank 1 now I’m lost to where should I put the defouler.
On a 2013 Ford explorer with a 3.5 l ecoboost engine, which is bank 2? would that be the front or the rear of the engine?
Bank 2 as you likely know is the side of a "V" engine that starts with either spark plug 4 or 5. For the 3.5 engine, spark plug 4 is on the radiator side of the vehicle, hence, the radiator side is Bank 2.
@@DrivingIntelligence thank you for your response to my question. Apparently I did change the bank 2 downstream sensor and did not make a mistake like I thought, I still have the p0430 code. My check engine light has come back on again after changing that sensor. There is no other issues the car runs like a champ. I thought if it was a catalytic converter it would have put out the p0420 code. Is it possible it's one of the catalytic converters without throwing the code?
I have a 2013 ford explorer xlt v6 with the P0430 code. Car jerks on acceleration between 30-4mph and then goes back to normal but once I stop it does the same thing and engine starts surging during the event. Would that likely be an o2 bank 2 or catalytic converter
That is not likely anything to do with the catalytic converter. How many miles on your Explorer? You could have a transmission problem. Normally the torque converter locks up at about 40mph and if your cat is going bad, could cause a vibration or surging at the speed. There could be other issues causing this as well. Do you have other diagnostic trouble codes?
@@DrivingIntelligence hello I got the same problem po430 or 420 the check engine light turn on and sometime leave and turn on again and when it reaches 40 it starts to jerk, it doesn't vibrate or anything, it just has a hard time gaining strength to reach 60. I've been to many workshops and they tell me it's the catalyst. They checked the transmission and it's fine. The engine is fine. It has 155k and it started. When I had 100k, I already put cataclean on it and it didn't work. The muffler shops charge me around 1300 to 2500 for change one catalyst
@@victormercado4608 This is tough to diagnose over the internet... are they saying the catalytic converter is plugged? A bad cat will not impact driving or engine performance. Are there any symptoms at idle? Or it runs fine at idle? Now that you shared your vehicle has trouble accelerating to 60, that could be a sign of a plugged cat. What size engine is in your Explorer?
Wonder if you might be willing to share your insights. I have a 2014 Explorer V6. I go for 100 miles or more with no check engine light. Then I get a P0430 code. Engine is running fine, no misses, no other codes. Looking at my scanner B1 & B2 readings are fairly consistent for B1S1/B2S1 voltages (although B2 is slightly lower at about 0.815v on B2 vs 0.850v on B1). Cat temps stay w/in 1° of each other and show about 950°F at operating temp. B1S2 & B2S2 current show similar amperage (3 different scanners only give me the option to look at amperage for S2 sensors; not sure why). Short term fuel shows similar values (again, slightly lower on B2). Code has presented while driving, but most often right at start-up (e.g., not on when the car is last shut off, on while cranking). I have noticed the car takes a few (3-4) seconds to start vs almost immediate but that does not seem to correlate to triggering the P0430 code. Thoughts on what to look at? I can record live data if it would help.
Hey Rob, after reading your issue, my first suspicion is a faulty or weak downstream O2 sensor that kinda wakes up when the exhaust gets good and hot. The O2 sensors need to get to a required operating temperature to work properly. This is why there is a heater circuit in the O2 sensor that gets the vehicle into closed loop operation more quickly. Have you measured the temperatures of your catalytic converter as shown in the video? Are you sure the bank 2 cat is in good working order? Also, I'm assuming you don't have broken wiring since you have no other codes and the issue is intermittent. The only thing I can suggest without seeing the vehicle is to replace the downstream O2 sensor. Here is a downstream sensor on Amazon... if you buy through this link, I get a little money to cover my channel without costing you more: amzn.to/3JMPuta
@@DrivingIntelligence Wow! Thanks for that quick reply! I really appreciate and if I get (another) O2 sensor, I will absolutely use the link. I did measure the temps and the cat (bank 2) seems to be working (and temps are consistent between the two cats too). I replaced the Bank 2 sensor with a new one when this started about 6 weeks ago. The code was gone for several weeks but came back with the same symptoms. I suppose the O2 sensor could have gone bad, but I doubt it. I'm wondering if I might have a vacuum leak on the intake that closes up as it warms. Does that sound far fetched? Unfortunately, I deleted the data before viewing the freeze data so I have to wait until the code comes back before seeing if it gives any clues.
@@rficalora Ah, ok, I don't think I saw you had already replaced the O2 sensor. A vacuum leak is possible, but not likely at the intake, more likely an exhaust leak that is allowing oxygen to reach the downstream O2 sensor. Do you hear any ticking at startup? This could indicate an exhaust leak. An exhaust leak could close itself off as the exhaust warms. You can use a smoke tester to find the leak. Any small leaks downstream of the B2S2 O2 sensor are not important.
@@rficalora one of my smoke test vids: ruclips.net/video/CbNPdL9YWe8/видео.html
@@rficalora and another smoke test vid: ruclips.net/video/3mnH4zg_Tmg/видео.html
The anti fouler I was able to find is a bit differnt, has a pin hole rather than a grate/grill at the end: this worked for a few days, then it started thrpwing a cat too lean code, do you think I can simply make the pin hole larger or drill it out completely or should I find a different style antifouler?
Please post the code you’re throwing.
P2098-C confirmed Post Catalysr Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 2.
Ok somine had just a pin hole compared to the one you showed in video, I drilled it to 1/4", also it was loose, i guess running it shook it loose, letting more clear air in, thus the lean. I am gonna run it now an report back: never thought Id wish for dirtier air, but it needs to be in the expected band.
@@jimc7285 that loose install would definitely have something to do with your problem. Looking forward to hearing how it turns out.
@@DrivingIntelligence yep, been fine since tightening, lights off: thanks for the video!
Thanks. All i gotta do is measure the cat temps to see if i gotta replace it .. i had a bank 1 sensor 2 code i replaced the sensor. And erased the codes. The o2 sensor code is gone now. The only one that came back is p0420. I will check the temps tomorrow.
Good luck, let me know how it turns out.
Any update
Great video did it still have a rough idle after installing the non fouler or stayed the same.And did it bring the power back in to it
Thanks for the question... the de-fouler will not improve idle or engine performance if used on the down-stream sensors. It only fools the computer to think the cat is functioning properly. Sounds like you have another issue. Do you have a check engine light?
Hey I appreciate the video. The walmart link to the defouler is out of stock. Any idea where to find them elsewhere? I am having issues sourcing one.
Hi there, thanks for letting me know. Try this link: Universal Car Sensor, Spacer Adapter Extender Eliminator, M18*1.5 Adapter Check Engine Light Fix Extension www.walmart.com/ip/462292709
Hi do we put foulers on both oxygen sensors after the catalytic converter
You only put an anti-fouler downstream of the catalytic converter that’s throwing the code.
Would I pass smog test if I do that? Just looking for the cheapest way to make it pass the test. If no codes on the ECU I’m good to go right? They do the test in NV only by the obd2 port.
To be honest, it’s risky. If they sniff the exhaust you will surely fail. If they only test through the OBD port you should be ok.
@@DrivingIntelligence yeah in nevada it’s only obd2 no exhaust check.
@@caracas4wd Then you should be ok, but again, I can't guarantee. The device fools the ECU into thinking everything is ok, therefore, the smog check should also be fooled.
How has the vehicle done long term with the non foulers? My 3.5 flex has the same code but runs perfect, considering trying this. Thanks
runs perfectly with no codes or CEL
@@DrivingIntelligence I did this right after I watched you video and 1,200 miles later it runs perfect and no CEL.
@rickymiles5548 awesome! Thanks for the update
I stop leaving usb charger plugged in after I charge my phone I unplug it for the vehicle I think it has to do with voltage being padsed through our the vehicle
Thanks for the comment! Can you clarify? I don't quite understand your point. Thanks!
@@DrivingIntelligence i think the voltage is not being distributed efficiently although i am not certified to say its the problem i unplugged my phone charger adapter from the cigarette outlet and the code went away after driving a couple of miles 🙃
Which code were you getting?
I’m having the same issue. The Dorman 42009 seems to be too shallow to allow the O2 sensor to fully seat. Did you drill out the bottom or use a different model?
I didn't have this problem, screwed in with no problem. Since this seems to be a new problem with the Dorman part, I'm changing the link in my description to the Walmart part that matches mine: www.walmart.com/ip/Car-Oxygen-O2-Sensor-Adapter-CEL-Fix-Check-Engine-Light-Eliminator-M18-1-5/919177346?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101345728&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=aud-430887228898:pla-51320962143&wl5=9051588&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=736905819&wl11=online&wl12=919177346_101345728&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw29ymBhAKEiwAHJbJ8o0Ao19J2ZVH7VivBF-xyMvbgGzjc9ujIOcwdOx8jXlJvpMfHzlynBoCfgMQAvD_BwE
Very well done
Thank you
So IF someone has the P0430 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 2. IF its an O2 sensor its one the the 2 closest to the top side of engine by hood Correct ? Cuase Ford said I have 4
P0430 means you have a catalytic converter problem, not an O2 Sensor problem. You need to follow the steps laid out in my video to confirm the cause of your diagnostic trouble code. P0430 is not telling you to change O2 sensors.
@@DrivingIntelligence OK Thanks
@@Richard5873 let me know how it goes
Came here to research why I just got a code (2012 Ford Explorer) at just over 100k miles for a P0420. I am guessing the O2 sensor now. It probably needs new plugs but I was putting that off because I have to remove the intake manifold to do that.
P0420 does not immediately indicate bad O2 sensor. Do all checks I describe in the video
@@DrivingIntelligence I will do my best with my limited tools. I haven't had to diagnose cars for 36 years. It has been idling rough lately and on very cold days if I try to accelerate onto the freeway the check engine light will flash with a misfire and the car will shake a bit. When it warms up it is fine. Always something.
@poetry256 be careful with misfires, check this video: How Engine Misfires Damage A Catalytic Converter: Causes Of Catalytic Converter Damage P0420 & P0430
ruclips.net/video/84iKlArdjkI/видео.html
Fantastic Video
Thank you 🙏
on my 2016 fore explorer I have the codes for catylitic banks and just yesterday my horn stop working I pur mu dresser in the back of the truck after folding the seats down because I am moving and the horn works again and the codes left
that's an interesting story... not sure what to tell you! Your Explorer is haunted!
Hello. I just got code p0430 on my 2018 expedition. Should I do all the testing you did in your video, or just go straight to the defouler?
You can definitely just install the defouler, and it works you found your problem, but my method diagnoses the problem.
Did you have to drill out the defouler or did it just screw in? Having same issue, just replaced o2 & cat!
What exactly is your problem? Engine code? No need to drill, it comes ready to be installed.
@@DrivingIntelligence Thank you. Had codes for both cats. Also, how is your water pump holding up? Did it ever need replaced? I have a '17 Sport. Just installed a fouler on the front today, may do back if I still have code. I had to drill out the center of my foulers.
Hey there, the Explorer in this video is not mine. It runs like a champ. Of course, I take care of it for the owner ;)
I don’t understand why you drilled out the defoulers… the hole is sized properly.
@@DrivingIntelligence Hey! You are a saint for replying, I tremendously appreciate it. I have codes P0420 & P0430. I put defoulers on and code is still there. Does that mean the O2 sensors most likely are bad? I am tired of throwing parts at it!
I should have noticed this in your previous message. The defoulers do not go on the front O2 sensors, only the downstream. Where are your defoulers?
Hello I’m having this issue in what o2 sensors do you install the foulers the ones closer to the tail pipe or the ones closer to the engine
They should be installed downstream of the catalytic converter
I had a code come up 2 times on my and the codes are staying out
How did you fix it?
I wish you was in AL so you could work on my 2017 Explorer xlt change spark plug ? Coils , and fuel injector still getting misfire on 1 and 5 I wonder if it’s the computer
Thanks for that comment. Have you changed your spark plugs and coils? If not, first step before looking at a computer issue, but depends on miles driven, and you should get a good scan of your entire system.
@@DrivingIntelligence thank you for responding yes I have gotten the sparks change and coil packs and fuel injectors. I have an independent shop running test on it now to see what is causing the misfire.
@@DrivingIntelligence the car only has 96,000 miles on it
@@Wilson-G2024 Have you gotten any diagnostic trouble codes? DTC's?
@@Wilson-G2024 not many miles
Where did you get the defouler? Do you have a link? I’m having the same issue and where I live they don’t check emissions
thanks for reaching out. I had hoped to find these on Amazon, but no luck. You will need to to a search on eBay. You can find many on eBay.
What is it called?
@@edkerch919 Please read my description, it gives you the information you need
@@DrivingIntelligence i understand the reading will work for the ecu but that doesn't mean the catalytic converyer is working right?
@@jvst20051 hey, thanks for reaching out. I'm sorry, but I don't understand your question. Can you rephrase? Sorry!
Do you modify the foulers or just install and go
Just install and go. They've worked every time.
Hey was wondering if I would get a link for the foulers, i have a 2015 explorer eco boost with the same issue. I wasn’t sure which ones to order so I was wondering would be so kind! Gave you a like and a follow 🙏🏻
No problem, please check the description of my video. There are many links to parts, tools and other videos. Let me know if you have an trouble.
Tengo una Ford Edge Sel 2015 2.0 lts ecoboost con codigo P0420 que me puede sugerir para solucionar este problema
Saludos
No hablo español
If this is not legal how can they legally sell these?
Good question! But it works. I prefer replacement of the cat to be environmentally conscious, but it’s very expensive. You need to use an infrared thermometer to determine if your cat is bad or good.
Do you have emissions testing where you live?
@@DrivingIntelligence no
Sorry, I said replacement of the car, I meant cat.
You can use the extension if you don’t get emissions tests
I followed these steps and erased the code and then started getting a completely new code, P0160.
hi, thanks for your comment. What exactly did you do? Replace the catalytic converter or use the spacer? This could be a defective downstream O2 sensor.
My 2014 Explorer has 206,000 and is throwing these codes currently
Sorry to hear that. Have you followed my video? That will help
Lots of those catalyst issues!
Lately, yes!
I just watched this video... Did I miss something very important in the video? All I took away was a device being used to mask/ trick the scanner and the onboard computer into thinking everything is hunky dorry. Eventually this will take a large chunk out of your wallet as it is biting you in the ass
am I missing something? I have no idea what you mean by "biting you in the ass"...
title should include illegal work around. Waste of time if your looking to actually fix the issue
Isn't that what I said? But thanks for repeating me, validates my video
@@DrivingIntelligenceLOL
What a clown…