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How to Change Front Brakes 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado or GMC Sierra
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- Опубликовано: 22 окт 2020
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Use the old break pads to compress the the brake piston in stead of the little wood block and they will compress evenly.
When you you torque don't jerk or force pressure. Firmly tighten the nut until click. When you jerk or force the click you're not actually getting the correct amount of ft lbs. It can also damage your torque wrench or throw it out of calibration.
Great informative video none the less. Thank you for you time and effort for helping people learn. 👍
Another tip is to straight arm it so that it's around 2 o'clock and just sit with you butt facing the outter diameter with your arm locked and open-handed perpendicular to the handle so that you can take advantage of your body weight and not have to whip it and it's easy to relieve input force when it clicks.
Use the old brake park to press the Caliper back into place.. also, remove the master cylinder cap to relieve pressure as you use the c-clamp. That will make the caliper cylinders move more easily, and freely. Just a tip… hope that helps you later.
Dealer wanted $200 per wheel! So you doing this saves some people alot of money!
You’ve earned another subscriber man. These videos have been immensely helpful to me. Thanks.
thank you young fella!! keep puttin those bangers out!
Unless your non-stock wheels call for different specs, both the 2014 Silverado I owned, and the 2018 that I currently own call for lug nuts to be 140 ft. pds. of torque in the owner's manual, not 120. . . I usually run 'em about 25 miles or so, and then re-torque! Otherwise, good video, as usual!!
a decent piece of metal coat hanger works wonders to hang the caliper. Keeps away screaming brake line syndrome of hanging weight on the line.
This video was helpful and easy tutorial.Thanks for time and help
So I’m assuming there’s no need to bleed the lines? My squealer on my 2018 Sierra just started going to do it myself. Thanks for the video.
There is no need to bleed the lines since the hydraulics were never opened. With large volume calipers like this you will see a marked rise in the fluid level in the power brake reservoir under the hood. If you have added fluid to compensate for low levels as the pads wore and the pistons extended further, well all that fluid is going to get pushed back out now. I use a large clean syringe to suck it out of the reservoir before compressing the pistons. Less mess.
Stupid question, Are u supposed to do this with the truck in neutral? Or in Park?
@@kylen7318 Park
Didn’t grease slides, or remove old brake fluid. Lugs get torqued to 180..
Where did you place the floor jack
Agree with the C clamp, but use the pad to push it in saves time looking for a piece of wood
You had me at “Lube this guy up”
You can also reuse the Brake as a spacer to reset the brake cylinders with the c-clamp
Why didnt u open the reservoir cap before pushing pistons in?
Recommend duralast gold? Just changed the rear with duralast golds.
How many miles did you have on truck?
Great video. Thanks for the info. You must not live in the salt belt. My 2014 has a lot more rust.
Thanks for the video. How many miles did you put on the brake pads? Did you have any squealing or vibration?
I would also be interested in knowing. My truck has almost 80,000 miles on it and the brake shoes still have life!
I just change my rear from Sierra 2017
Nice demo! I have a 2004 Silverado. Pretty much the same? Want to do the back brakes too.
Great job, GM rotors are trash at least the ones that are on my 17 HC went through 2 sets that warped and only 30,000 miles and im easy on them and went through warranty. Tossed them for Powerstop Z36 with much of an improved.
How have your power stop z36 held up? Are they good? I just bought their brake pads and I was wondering if I should go ahead and get the rotor and caliper kit.
@@treyg2205 They held you great, the rotors and pads. 3 year's and no issues
@@anthonymacneil2279 sounds good man thanks
Had me worries at first. Put jack under a arm first. PLEASE. Also just use your old pad to push the pistons in.
Link?
Lugs should be a 140 ft pounds buddy it’s in the owner manual. And I thought you have to replace the caliper clips every time you replace the pads?
Why no parking brake?
Great video!
Hey Dustin I also have a 2014 Chevy Silverado but with a 4.5” lift mine has 132k miles
Has there been any issues on your truck so far? Mine has had the A/C condenser issue and it has a lifter tick but I think that’s my fault for not calibrating it quick enough after lifting and not using AFM disabler in the beginning
I have a 2018 Sierra not lifted but have had to have a condenser replaced. Crazy.
@@ryantomaino187
My dad has a 2018 Silverado with 60k miles thankfully his hasn’t gone out yet
If it goes out again get the aftermarket one cuz the OEM one sucks
Ya I have a 14 Silverado and same thing with the condenser. The dealership wanted to charge me 900 to replace it. No thanks I'll do it myself lol
@@8L1A8
I would use an aftermarket condenser cuz mines actually gone out twice
@@Man_in_a_Gucci_Suit thanks
I was always taught that when you change your brakes you’re supposed to either turn the rotors or replace them. You can also use an opened end wrench to compress the calipers.
You should remove the master cylinder cap before pressing in the calipers.
Why
@@DSNCB919 release pressure when pushing the fluid back. You risk damage to the master cylinder if you don't.
@@davidthecardcollector I noticed he said don't enable parking brake that's fine if I'm doing front though right ?
how hot should your Silverado run. 2014
Mine goes up to 180 to 190 driving around town
@@viixiconik thanks for the info. mine sits around there also.
Dude, you need to lower the truck on to the stand, not let it catch the truck if it falls. That is a big no no.