Sierra Power Stop Brake Pads and Rotors on Amazon - amzn.to/32G10hU Sierra \ Silverado Brake Pads and Rotor Options on Amazon - amzn.to/2CaZG8Q Brake Pin Grease on Amazon - amzn.to/2pcITl7
Don't forget to spray off the new rotors with brake cleaner! They have rust prevention oil on them during storage & may contaminate the new brake pads from bedding in properly
I have watched many videos for DIY applications. I felt you were knowledgeable, well spoken and easy to follow for what I needed to do the job. Thank you.
Excellent tutorial. Just completed my brake job on both front and back. It’s been a while since I’ve done a brake job, so your video was very helpful. Thank you!
Awesome! I used this video as a reference to change the front brakes on my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500. Worked GREAT ! ! ! Everything you showed, demonstrated, and talked about was spot-on. I underestimated how much effort it took to break the caliper bracket bolts, but they eventually came free. Excellent tutorial video. My rotors were fine, but got them turned at a local auto parts store.
Just an update from my previous post...Mark, all went well. I replaced my OEM with the same brake kit as you do in the video. I did pinch and tare a rubber on one of the slides but the local Parts store had a kit... $10.00. Also I had to grind a bit off the brake ends as shown to make it slide better. Your help was appreciated. Keep the videos coming...I do everything I can myself, Ya. I have trust issues. Love my truck. Lol. Thanks again.
It's not the tin clips. It's the slide pins sticking. And when you cleaned and regressed the pins, you didn't clean the holes they go into (or at least you didn't show it or mention it). It's a common mistake that people should avoid making. I like your new rotors, I have a set just like them on my ZR2.
Use a Triangle file or sand blast under where the brake clips go then use brake Grease under the brake clips and faces of pistons and use brake grease on the back of the brake pads and clean off around the top of pistons groove... Check before compressing the caliper piston back that the dust boot is normal and not tucked in or you will pinch the boot when compressing...if it is then stick a small screwdriver and lift the caliper dust boot lip up and let air out..if brake fluid comes out then the internal caliper seal is no good and replace caliper..
Would adding some never seize compound aid in easier future removals? I know you must remove the rust from that hub to make sure the rotors are mounted flush to it so no possible warping
@@karmacyclewerks9640 No It's 140 I rotated tires today that's what it calls for. Most guys use air impacts too and torque higher than that! Really sucks to get the wheel off with a flat!
@@MikeJuntaman no it's not 1/2 tons call for 90-100 ft lbs, dont believe everything you see on the internet actually get out a manual.. that's the paper book in glove box that came with the truck.. lmao
@@karmacyclewerks9640 Ya, let's not use GM specs, let's go with the wrong ones that KARMA cyclewerks guessed at. The proper specs for 2014 Sliverado or Sierra 1500 is 140 ft lbs. I guess you are one of those internet "sources" we are supposed to watch out for.
Thank you for the video. About to do the same Power Stop upgrade to my '14 Silverado. Done plenty of brake jobs but wanted to make sure I wouldn't run into anything weird before I took it apart. Your video was helpful in that regard and some good tips as well.
I had the same situation with mine. Outer front pads on both wheels where seized which caused excessive heat and warped a rotor. Going to make sure new pad tabs are filed to fit in the grooves.
My t30 torx screw securing the rotor was torqued on super tight by the last guy to do the brakes on my truck. The screw is now stripped. Can I drill through it and drive without the screw? Or is it critical to have?
Just so eberyine knows. NEVER take you vehicle to a dealership for brake service. They will charge no less than $600 just for the front pads and rotors. You can spend at most $250 for new rotors and pads at auto zone and its easy to do it yourself .
Why would you put regular bearing grease on the caliper pins but not on the wear indicators? Use only the proper lube on all the brake parts. Also, something tells me you haven't been doing brakes for a long time.
I noticed you have a 2014 like mine. My A/C recently Went out. Turns out this year around 50k miles all a/c goes out due towards the line from condenser to compressor being wobbly without a bracket. Have you had this issue yet?
Nice job Mark. I've replaced brakes a hundred times before but never the rubbers on the slides. Just so happened I got the same kit as you. Got mine at AutoAnything.com. Great company. Thanks again. NOTE; Don't forget to Break in properly. To expensive for premature wear.
I had a very difficult time with the tin clips. Getting my pad to slide in. The tab in the center of the tins I couldn’t figure out which way they went. Against the rotor or to be like a spring?
Mark how would you change the brake pads on a disc brake system on the rear on a Chevy Silverado 1500 4 wheel drive anything that you could tell me would be extremely helpful and I also have the emergency brake lines that are rusted up and I'm not sure about how to go about freeing them the information that you have would also be helpful
Yeah I notice a bad vibration before I did any break-in. I had to come to a fast and complete stop and it kind of felt like how antilock feels. Doing the brake in now and seems to have gone away. Thanks
Yes there is 100% especially with the carbon pads he installed, if not done properly your brakes will glaze over and be worthless. Break in procedure is on the brake pad box and takes approx 30 miles to heat cycle and gets performed a second time after cool down.
How many miles on this truck when this was done? I have about 45K on my and they make A loud screeching noise when I stop! 2014 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71
I just found out my gmc boxtruck had the similar inner pads wear faster than the outer pads... funny thing is the outer pads has the squealer warning tabs, which will be too late since inner pads would be metal to metal... sigh. Good explanation for possible causes on your video
I replaced my rear brake pads on my '14 Silverado and they still squeak. The shoes didn't come with new clips so they're the same ones but I greased them. What is typically the problem?
Jeff Hamilton is the rear disc job the same as the front? curious i only did my fronts. on the squeaking mine was the stupid bracket. i greased them more and regreased the caliper pins and no squeak in the front
Yes I'm well aware of the latest attack on Y/T. The thing is your vids are prime for auto repair ads and "guy ads". Why the hell Y/T advertisers would not target your content as prime is crazy.
To crazy, you would think Autozone, or Pepboys would be targeting your content. By the way, thank you again for your Blend door actuator Video, saved me $138.00. Was an easy fix too.
@@rlbadger1698 HAHAHAHA cant believe you think this crap should be prime. You have to be a local buddy, NOBODY that watched that crap would agree with you
$640.00 for front brakes wow..all you need is brake pads with brake clips $60 to $100 for front set...2 rotors depending on condition of you’re rotors and if you need them about $180 for front 2...brake grease $10 to $20...can of brake cleaner $11.00...brake hardware kit $15.00...shop towels $3.50..C-Clamp $20.00 and basic hand tools and a breaker bar or borrow them..borrow jack stands and borrow a jack or use factory jack from vehicle..
Sierra Power Stop Brake Pads and Rotors on Amazon - amzn.to/32G10hU
Sierra \ Silverado Brake Pads and Rotor Options on Amazon - amzn.to/2CaZG8Q
Brake Pin Grease on Amazon - amzn.to/2pcITl7
Don't forget to spray off the new rotors with brake cleaner! They have rust prevention oil on them during storage & may contaminate the new brake pads from bedding in properly
Buy far one of the best videos I've seen. No one ever changes the slide pin boots. Good job.
I have watched many videos for DIY applications. I felt you were knowledgeable, well spoken and easy to follow for what I needed to do the job. Thank you.
Excellent tutorial. Just completed my brake job on both front and back. It’s been a while since I’ve done a brake job, so your video was very helpful. Thank you!
Awesome! I used this video as a reference to change the front brakes on my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500. Worked GREAT ! ! ! Everything you showed, demonstrated, and talked about was spot-on. I underestimated how much effort it took to break the caliper bracket bolts, but they eventually came free. Excellent tutorial video. My rotors were fine, but got them turned at a local auto parts store.
Just an update from my previous post...Mark, all went well. I replaced my OEM with the same brake kit as you do in the video. I did pinch and tare a rubber on one of the slides but the local Parts store had a kit... $10.00. Also I had to grind a bit off the brake ends as shown to make it slide better. Your help was appreciated. Keep the videos coming...I do everything I can myself, Ya. I have trust issues. Love my truck. Lol. Thanks again.
It's not the tin clips. It's the slide pins sticking. And when you cleaned and regressed the pins, you didn't clean the holes they go into (or at least you didn't show it or mention it). It's a common mistake that people should avoid making.
I like your new rotors, I have a set just like them on my ZR2.
Use a Triangle file or sand blast under where the brake clips go then use brake Grease under the brake clips and faces of pistons and use brake grease on the back of the brake pads and clean off around the top of pistons groove... Check before compressing the caliper piston back that the dust boot is normal and not tucked in or you will pinch the boot when compressing...if it is then stick a small screwdriver and lift the caliper dust boot lip up and let air out..if brake fluid comes out then the internal caliper seal is no good and replace caliper..
You Gotta clean the rust from the surface where the rotor meets the hub...Just Gotta!
Great vid
Would adding some never seize compound aid in easier future removals? I know you must remove the rust from that hub to make sure the rotors are mounted flush to it so no possible warping
@@ricebike you don't have to almost never have problems with discs not coming off
Very good video. Thanks. At the end you mentioned the wheel torque of 90 ft/lbs. That is too low. I'm pretty sure it's 140 ft/lbs.
Pretty sure 90 is right and 140 is way too high for a 1/2 ton, look in your owners manual....
@@karmacyclewerks9640 No It's 140 I rotated tires today that's what it calls for. Most guys use air impacts too and torque higher than that! Really sucks to get the wheel off with a flat!
@@MikeJuntaman no it's not 1/2 tons call for 90-100 ft lbs, dont believe everything you see on the internet actually get out a manual.. that's the paper book in glove box that came with the truck.. lmao
@@karmacyclewerks9640 Ya, let's not use GM specs, let's go with the wrong ones that KARMA cyclewerks guessed at. The proper specs for 2014 Sliverado or Sierra 1500 is 140 ft lbs. I guess you are one of those internet "sources" we are supposed to watch out for.
The specks for my 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 call for 140 foot lbs.
Good Job mark My opinion its rust behind the tins and Mark addressed that.
Thank you for the video. About to do the same Power Stop upgrade to my '14 Silverado. Done plenty of brake jobs but wanted to make sure I wouldn't run into anything weird before I took it apart. Your video was helpful in that regard and some good tips as well.
Hey mark just purchased 2014 SLT 4x4. Great video looking forward for more.
Great video. Thank you for taking the time to help others.
Thank you very much very helpful got it done myself
Best video I have seen. Well explained. Thank you
I had the same situation with mine. Outer front pads on both wheels where seized which caused excessive heat and warped a rotor. Going to make sure new pad tabs are filed to fit in the grooves.
Thanks so much Mark, you saved me some big money!
Simple and easy bro thanks !! Much love
My t30 torx screw securing the rotor was torqued on super tight by the last guy to do the brakes on my truck. The screw is now stripped. Can I drill through it and drive without the screw? Or is it critical to have?
Excellent video 👍
thanks for your help it is well explained
Just so eberyine knows. NEVER take you vehicle to a dealership for brake service. They will charge no less than $600 just for the front pads and rotors. You can spend at most $250 for new rotors and pads at auto zone and its easy to do it yourself .
Why would you put regular bearing grease on the caliper pins but not on the wear indicators? Use only the proper lube on all the brake parts. Also, something tells me you haven't been doing brakes for a long time.
I noticed you have a 2014 like mine.
My A/C recently Went out. Turns out this year around 50k miles all a/c goes out due towards the line from condenser to compressor being wobbly without a bracket.
Have you had this issue yet?
My 2014 Sierra had the same issue. Supposedly it was a bad condenser, so they changed it out.
Nice job Mark. I've replaced brakes a hundred times before but never the rubbers on the slides. Just so happened I got the same kit as you. Got mine at AutoAnything.com. Great company. Thanks again. NOTE; Don't forget to Break in properly. To expensive for premature wear.
Your buying from a shop thats way overpriced. Rotors should cost around $80 each not $300
I always clean the hub. The rust on it may cause an uneven surface and may lead to uneven wear. How are the new rotors? Do they last a long time?
Excellent video. Short and to the point. What kind of camera are you using? Superb camera views and clarity.
That's a good job sir
I thought you are suppose to apply a small amount anti-sieze to the back plate behind the rotor and also the bolts?
Badass man! Thanks for the help.
I had a very difficult time with the tin clips. Getting my pad to slide in. The tab in the center of the tins I couldn’t figure out which way they went. Against the rotor or to be like a spring?
They are called wear indicators not TINS . and they can only go in one way. It wont hurt to just leave the old ones. Ive dine brakes for 20 years.
Mark how would you change the brake pads on a disc brake system on the rear on a Chevy Silverado 1500 4 wheel drive anything that you could tell me would be extremely helpful and I also have the emergency brake lines that are rusted up and I'm not sure about how to go about freeing them the information that you have would also be helpful
do you have a video for replacing a lower ball joint and upper control arm on a 2014 Silverado? Nice video, easy to follow
Thanks for the video. I have the same exact truck and replacing with the same exact parts. It's like you made this video for me?
Did you get any bad vibration when stopping during the brake in period? Also did you have to bleed through brake lines?
Yeah I notice a bad vibration before I did any break-in. I had to come to a fast and complete stop and it kind of felt like how antilock feels. Doing the brake in now and seems to have gone away. Thanks
Mark Jenkins, No not yet. Im going to order them soon. Won't try to skip the break in next time. They been working fine now.
Thanks ....good info
Great video thanks for sharing!!
nice video thanks ,can you use a impact to take those bolts off or will that be a bad idea
When you torque doped threads the torque spec is different, it’s less when doped, what’s the torque spec for the callipers?
is it the same for the rear? havent done my rears yet didn't know if anything is different
Is there any special procedure to break-in the new pads and rotors?
Yes there is 100% especially with the carbon pads he installed, if not done properly your brakes will glaze over and be worthless. Break in procedure is on the brake pad box and takes approx 30 miles to heat cycle and gets performed a second time after cool down.
Great video man
Should you use loctite for the 19mm and 18mm bolts? Or are they fine with just grease?
Loctite for safety
How many miles on this truck when this was done?
I have about 45K on my and they make A loud screeching noise when I stop!
2014 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71
Im at 62k and still going, but just about to do them. Do you tow a lot of weight?
I just found out my gmc boxtruck had the similar inner pads wear faster than the outer pads... funny thing is the outer pads has the squealer warning tabs, which will be too late since inner pads would be metal to metal... sigh. Good explanation for possible causes on your video
I got my calipers replaced under warranty because they were sticking. They were squealing at high speed turns.
After loosening the master cylinder cover, do you have to bleed the lines after?
No. Only if you diconnext the lines and air gets in
Is the screw necessary for the rotor? My new rotor didn't line up so I didn't use it. Now its shaking:(
@@nogripes No I'm talking about the screw that's a torx bit.
Yes it is. It has to be lined up. Use a sharpie to mark the hole
hi mark nice video, i was looking for the rear video
Does it shake when u break hard ?
I replaced my rear brake pads on my '14 Silverado and they still squeak. The shoes didn't come with new clips so they're the same ones but I greased them. What is typically the problem?
Jeff Hamilton is the rear disc job the same as the front? curious i only did my fronts.
on the squeaking mine was the stupid bracket. i greased them more and regreased the caliper pins and no squeak in the front
Does this work for a 2015 Suburban too?
awesome video!!!!!!
good job Mark!:) keep doing please
Uses T30 torx ?
All I want to know is the torque spec for all caliper nuts
HOW DO YOU SELL OLD PARTS , WHAT IS THE WEB SITE . YOU SAID FB
Not wise to buy used oads or rotors. I wouldt pay 5 bucks for used rotors and pads should be tossed in the garbage
What size c clamp did you use
Use 6 inch
So you didn’t torque the bolts down…
Also a little never seize on the threads will help you change them the next time.
Lol maybe you should watch a sma video on doing brakes. God bless
No ads, wtf?
Yes I'm well aware of the latest attack on Y/T. The thing is your vids are prime for auto repair ads and "guy ads". Why the hell Y/T advertisers would not target your content as prime is crazy.
To crazy, you would think Autozone, or Pepboys would be targeting your content. By the way, thank you again for your Blend door actuator Video, saved me $138.00. Was an easy fix too.
We Enjoy watching videos woth out ads, tanks.
Yeah someone would sponsor that crap, roflmao
@@rlbadger1698 HAHAHAHA cant believe you think this crap should be prime. You have to be a local buddy, NOBODY that watched that crap would agree with you
I like mine sloppy and loose!
My buddy offered to do my front brakes on my Sierra. I'm glad I didn't let him do it. I brought it to the dealer instead. $640.00 brakes and rotors.
you dont need any special tools here. Easy job, even for the newbie. #boned
$640.00 for front brakes wow..all you need is brake pads with brake clips $60 to $100 for front set...2 rotors depending on condition of you’re rotors and if you need them about $180 for front 2...brake grease $10 to $20...can of brake cleaner $11.00...brake hardware kit $15.00...shop towels $3.50..C-Clamp $20.00 and basic hand tools and a breaker bar or borrow them..borrow jack stands and borrow a jack or use factory jack from vehicle..
Lol if you only knew about the id-iots that work at dealerships.