I was trying to figure out the best method to create a gas powered tempering kiln and your solution is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for posting.
I have a electric, even heat oven now and the results you can get from a propane forge with this set up is very accurate now that I can compare the two
@@AaronJohnson1979 Good to know. The part I missed is using the pipe to give an indirect heat. I'd considered building a longer chamber with room to keep the burner flame away from the steel, but you solution looks much better.
@@AaronJohnson1979 just started using an oil called rye 50 for 01 and 80crv2 ..think you guys over the pond use one similar called parks AAA.. getting some proper results 👍 just made a bit of Damascus 😉watch this space 👍🤙
@@harwoodblades3633 Yeah I have Parks 50 and Parks AAA Larrin Thomas made a great video on quenching oils great video! I’ve never been able to pull off Damascus yet I’ve tried it about five or six times just doesn’t work for me lol I don’t think my Forge gets hot enough
Awsome video man, very kool system. I'm just starting and I literally just ordered 1075 and 1095 lol. So hopfully I dont blow it, I got a forge and I do casting so I have a medium sized kiln that I can pretty well control the heat in. So hopfully that will be my saving grace, old ceramic kilns people are selling are cheaper and still work great most of the time. They just upgrade to larger units because it's such an important part of their business, and doing like 30hr cooks for a few pieces of ceramic isent really very cost effective. This is the 1st video on your channel I've watched, so many you already have one by now but ya... great video. The cryo thing is something I really want to get into aswell.
Well just be careful because this is one addictive hobby lol it’s a tough hobby to try to make money in but it’s a great hobby to make people happy with. If you already have decent skills with temperature control in a propane forge you’re not gonna have a problem, These type of steels you don’t have to cryo treat but I would at least put them in the freezer before temporary. Does it help I don’t know but it’s good practice. Just don’t get them too hot and have Grain growth. Make a little test piece first then break it and look at the grain structure. The finer the better. Try to use a good quenching oil also just get 1 gallon of parks 50 for now that’s good for one knife at a time. Canola oil just doesn’t get it done, trying to get the knife in the oil within one second. And don’t ever forget to have fun
So much fine looking blades love the mister. Gonna be awesome to follow your Journey with the new oven!!! Looking forward to seeing you eat some brown cheese to much love from norway mate
I’m looking forward to that brown cheese to!! Also that chocolate I’m hoping it doesn’t melt lol But I really appreciate it I’m glad to be able to try out some of Norway’s custom classical food
I usually always wear eye protection, I got a little lazy here I was just cleaning off some scale but still I should have them on, your right Thank you
Thank you I appreciate that but not too long ago I ended up buying a Oven probably would’ve saved some money if I would’ve just built it myself it seems to be pretty simple looking at the one I have
80crv2. AEB-L. 52100 are still some of the best steels, that I would choose for my fixed blades. 80crv2m would be my choice for bushcraft or larger survival style of knives. 52100 would be my hunting blade, can work on a bushcraft style of knife too. AEB-L, would be great for my fishing and food prep knives! Old is GOLD!!! PS 1095 is not as tough as most people think it is. It's tough enough but nowhere near as tough as 80crv2 or most of the steels I see in the title of this video. Actually, It one of my least favorite steels. PS Ka-Bar's steel is not 1095, it's almost identical as the old Carbon V, that Cold Steel used back in the days. That means, that it's a better steel that 1095, closer to O1 steel, however, I like it a bit more than O1, because it seems it's a has bit more edge stabily (no chip) Good job on these knives, I really like their design! Good performance knives they look! Keep it up
Thanks brother I really appreciate it and I one hundred percent agree with you! I love 52100 but with my set up I have too hard of a time heat treating it, but in about nine weeks I will have a heat treat oven and 52100 will definitely be back on my list! 1095 is definitely a love-hate relationship with me lol. And 80crv2 far as it goes it’s my favorite and AEBL is right with it.
@@AaronJohnson1979 Ballbearing steel, is the steel that made me appriciate quality and the reason, I begun to buy more expensive knives. It was my 1st handforged knife buy, that was made out of it. Finnish blades from Laurin Metalli , out of 80crv2 (around 59 hrc) are the knives, that made me love that steel too!! I wish you good luck and hope, that you get an oven soon. 52100 is way better quality steel than all these. The procedure they make it is a reason for that. It's carbides cut smoother/easier any material. It carves wood like no other low alloy steel I have used! 1 more reason I love it so much, is the fact that it gets sharp easily and holds it's edge the same if not longer, than some modern Super steels!! Your designs are way better, than most knifemaker out there! That means that you deserve that oven and you will get it, sooner or later! Just keep it up. Good luck!!
@@greekveteran2715 52100 is the steel that made me fall in love with knife making. But it requires a very long long soak time in the heat treat to really get the most out of it and that’s extremely hard to do in a propane forge soon as my heat treat oven gets here,, 52100 will be going into bushcraft, kitchen and hunting knives ASAP
Hey just your opinion on 1095 and 1075 review say 1075 is tougher amd 1095 holds a better edge retention is that accurate or is all to the heat treatment
Couple questions from a newb here. What is that extra piece of round steel you have in the center of your forge? Also, what is your mixture and set up on the cryo treat? Thanks for the vids!
Pipe helps regulate the heat keeps the flame directly off the knife creates a nice even heat throughout the blade a lot more accurate with the thermocouple sharing the same atmosphere as far as the cryo. Use kerosene and dry ice create a slurry and try to get it insulated all the way around. Don't use acetone it's too dangerous. This is a great hobby, but safety first
I’m just getting into forging myself. I mostly do stock removal. I do have some forging videos but you’re gonna want to watch some videos that Jason Knight makes. He really shows a lot of good techniques.
Hey Aaron, why would you want your 1095 at 63? sounds brittle. I have been taught that 59 is the right balance for a hunting knife that wont chip, whats your view?
My view on it is you’re not wrong I agree with you 59 is probably much better for “most” people. But if someone uses it correctly and they want a good slicing nice hard edge that will perform at a higher level then a higher HRC is the way to go. Same thing with geometry if you grind a knife super thin you take a higher chance of it getting damaged if someone doesn’t use it right. But with a thinner Harder edge you get better performance. You can always blew the spine of the knife and leave the edge hard if you want it to be a little tougher that’s also a option. A lot of companies temper back there knives much softer than what they need to be simply because it’s less headaches for them and they would rather see a knife bend then break less likelihood of the user getting hurt and suing them. May I suggest you watching this guy on RUclips called big brown bear he’s top of the class man and explains things Spot on about this very subject
@@AaronJohnson1979 you right about that lol just take doing the same steel until u master it. I'm working with 1095 and 5160 for toughness until I learn how to do both perfectly then getting some 01 tool steel and 1084.
@@FunHobbies225 That’s a good strategy a lot of people don’t stick with one Steel until they get it down they jump around too much and every steel has almost its own personality you have to get to know it well before you can be friends
Ammo cans make great tanks for oil. Mostly because you can't find ammo to go in them LOL. Great video
Lol!
I was trying to figure out the best method to create a gas powered tempering kiln and your solution is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for posting.
I have a electric, even heat oven now and the results you can get from a propane forge with this set up is very accurate now that I can compare the two
@@AaronJohnson1979 Good to know. The part I missed is using the pipe to give an indirect heat. I'd considered building a longer chamber with room to keep the burner flame away from the steel, but you solution looks much better.
@@snarkyeconomist2141 well, that way in the pipe, the steel can share the same atmosphere as the K type thermocouple
Brilliant video..all the best Lincoln 👍🤙
Thank you I appreciate it
@@AaronJohnson1979 just started using an oil called rye 50 for 01 and 80crv2 ..think you guys over the pond use one similar called parks AAA.. getting some proper results 👍 just made a bit of Damascus 😉watch this space 👍🤙
@@harwoodblades3633 Yeah I have Parks 50 and Parks AAA Larrin Thomas made a great video on quenching oils great video! I’ve never been able to pull off Damascus yet I’ve tried it about five or six times just doesn’t work for me lol I don’t think my Forge gets hot enough
Awsome video man, very kool system. I'm just starting and I literally just ordered 1075 and 1095 lol. So hopfully I dont blow it, I got a forge and I do casting so I have a medium sized kiln that I can pretty well control the heat in. So hopfully that will be my saving grace, old ceramic kilns people are selling are cheaper and still work great most of the time. They just upgrade to larger units because it's such an important part of their business, and doing like 30hr cooks for a few pieces of ceramic isent really very cost effective. This is the 1st video on your channel I've watched, so many you already have one by now but ya... great video. The cryo thing is something I really want to get into aswell.
Well just be careful because this is one addictive hobby lol it’s a tough hobby to try to make money in but it’s a great hobby to make people happy with. If you already have decent skills with temperature control in a propane forge you’re not gonna have a problem, These type of steels you don’t have to cryo treat but I would at least put them in the freezer before temporary. Does it help I don’t know but it’s good practice. Just don’t get them too hot and have Grain growth. Make a little test piece first then break it and look at the grain structure. The finer the better. Try to use a good quenching oil also just get 1 gallon of parks 50 for now that’s good for one knife at a time. Canola oil just doesn’t get it done, trying to get the knife in the oil within one second. And don’t ever forget to have fun
So much fine looking blades love the mister. Gonna be awesome to follow your Journey with the new oven!!! Looking forward to seeing you eat some brown cheese to much love from norway mate
I’m looking forward to that brown cheese to!! Also that chocolate I’m hoping it doesn’t melt lol But I really appreciate it I’m glad to be able to try out some of Norway’s custom classical food
12:15 your eye protection looks nice in your shirt (care yourself brother bladesmith )
I usually always wear eye protection, I got a little lazy here I was just cleaning off some scale but still I should have them on, your right Thank you
That rhino looking knife double edged pika style would be awesome.
Lol i’ve never seen a rhino Knife before I’ll have to look that one up
build an oven brother. its not too difficult. i can send you material list and plans and pics from mine if youd like. nice work
Thank you I appreciate that but
not too long ago I ended up buying a Oven probably would’ve saved some money if I would’ve just built it myself it seems to be pretty simple looking at the one I have
80crv2. AEB-L. 52100 are still some of the best steels, that I would choose for my fixed blades. 80crv2m would be my choice for bushcraft or larger survival style of knives. 52100 would be my hunting blade, can work on a bushcraft style of knife too. AEB-L, would be great for my fishing and food prep knives! Old is GOLD!!! PS 1095 is not as tough as most people think it is. It's tough enough but nowhere near as tough as 80crv2 or most of the steels I see in the title of this video. Actually, It one of my least favorite steels. PS Ka-Bar's steel is not 1095, it's almost identical as the old Carbon V, that Cold Steel used back in the days. That means, that it's a better steel that 1095, closer to O1 steel, however, I like it a bit more than O1, because it seems it's a has bit more edge stabily (no chip) Good job on these knives, I really like their design! Good performance knives they look! Keep it up
Thanks brother I really appreciate it and I one hundred percent agree with you! I love 52100 but with my set up I have too hard of a time heat treating it, but in about nine weeks I will have a heat treat oven and 52100 will definitely be back on my list! 1095 is definitely a love-hate relationship with me lol. And 80crv2 far as it goes it’s my favorite and AEBL is right with it.
@@AaronJohnson1979 Ballbearing steel, is the steel that made me appriciate quality and the reason, I begun to buy more expensive knives. It was my 1st handforged knife buy, that was made out of it. Finnish blades from Laurin Metalli , out of 80crv2 (around 59 hrc) are the knives, that made me love that steel too!! I wish you good luck and hope, that you get an oven soon. 52100 is way better quality steel than all these. The procedure they make it is a reason for that. It's carbides cut smoother/easier any material. It carves wood like no other low alloy steel I have used! 1 more reason I love it so much, is the fact that it gets sharp easily and holds it's edge the same if not longer, than some modern Super steels!! Your designs are way better, than most knifemaker out there! That means that you deserve that oven and you will get it, sooner or later! Just keep it up. Good luck!!
@@greekveteran2715 52100 is the steel that made me fall in love with knife making. But it requires a very long long soak time in the heat treat to really get the most out of it and that’s extremely hard to do in a propane forge soon as my heat treat oven gets here,, 52100 will be going into bushcraft, kitchen and hunting knives ASAP
@@greekveteran2715 you have seen my blade made from aaron on my channel 80crv2 at 62-63 hrc its a daaamn fine good blade
ruclips.net/video/Or_94MFLnAs/видео.html
Hey just your opinion on 1095 and 1075 review say 1075 is tougher amd 1095 holds a better edge retention is that accurate or is all to the heat treatment
I use db hardness chisels from Etsy. They give you a HRC within 2 points.
Thats good to kno ill look in too this!!!!!!
Couple questions from a newb here. What is that extra piece of round steel you have in the center of your forge? Also, what is your mixture and set up on the cryo treat? Thanks for the vids!
Pipe helps regulate the heat keeps the flame directly off the knife creates a nice even heat throughout the blade a lot more accurate with the thermocouple sharing the same atmosphere as far as the cryo. Use kerosene and dry ice create a slurry and try to get it insulated all the way around. Don't use acetone it's too dangerous. This is a great hobby, but safety first
Do you have any book pd about forging I want to began this passion please can you help me
I’m just getting into forging myself. I mostly do stock removal. I do have some forging videos but you’re gonna want to watch some videos that Jason Knight makes. He really shows a lot of good techniques.
@@AaronJohnson1979 thank you
🤘
Hey Aaron, why would you want your 1095 at 63? sounds brittle. I have been taught that 59 is the right balance for a hunting knife that wont chip, whats your view?
My view on it is you’re not wrong I agree with you 59 is probably much better for “most” people. But if someone uses it correctly and they want a good slicing nice hard edge that will perform at a higher level then a higher HRC is the way to go. Same thing with geometry if you grind a knife super thin you take a higher chance of it getting damaged if someone doesn’t use it right. But with a thinner Harder edge you get better performance. You can always blew the spine of the knife and leave the edge hard if you want it to be a little tougher that’s also a option. A lot of companies temper back there knives much softer than what they need to be simply because it’s less headaches for them and they would rather see a knife bend then break less likelihood of the user getting hurt and suing them. May I suggest you watching this guy on RUclips called big brown bear he’s top of the class man and explains things Spot on about this very subject
How are you measuring the temperature inside your forge?
With a K type thermocouple
You can find them on Amazon for about 60 bucks there a must if you’re doing heat treating in a propane Forge
does the foil in oven help with temper be more even? i try the pipe in my hells forge and it works great thanks for that lol
It really does the tinfoil with the probe helps regulate the temperature a little bit better
Awesome vid....where did that water sprayer come from on your belt sander?..
You can get it on Amazon for like 12 bucks
I use it when the knife starts getting thin really helps with dust and not overheating
johnson awesome thankyou
1095 is the easiest ones and best steel besides 5160
Both are great steel for sure. But the best steel is the one you are best at heat treating.
@@AaronJohnson1979 you right about that lol just take doing the same steel until u master it. I'm working with 1095 and 5160 for toughness until I learn how to do both perfectly then getting some 01 tool steel and 1084.
@@FunHobbies225 That’s a good strategy a lot of people don’t stick with one Steel until they get it down they jump around too much and every steel has almost its own personality you have to get to know it well before you can be friends
@@AaronJohnson1979 right u will never learn if keep changing steels.
What type of clay do you use?
From Pops knife supply “no scale” is what I used.
Well this was relaxing to watch until the freaking music killed it for me.
Lol yeah I couldn’t help myself