Just got done following your video to complete the rebuild of a 68 Johnson 20 horse and thank you so much. It went so smoothly. I appreciate your videos and what you do.
I watched your video on doing the seals on the lower unit of old Evinrude. Outstanding video! I bought a kit for my 1963 18hp Fastwin. I started the job. The shaft seal and O ring fit great. I went to insert the upper seal for the shift rod and found that the new seal is too large. Do you have the smaller one? Also will all the other parts fit correctly? Anyone? All set. I re-watched the video and selected a different seal. My package came with extras which confused me.
Great video. Mine appears to be leaking gear oil out on the upper union and out the exhaust. I figured there was a seal up there surprised there isn't. Now I'm not sure what seal is allowing that to happen. I do have the seal kit but a little puzzled.
Great videos, both Part 1 and Part 2. Watched both to do the lower end seals on my 1981 Johnson 25 and impeller replacement. A couple of differences from the video including an inner and outer oil seal on the propeller shaft (only the outer shown in video) and there is an impeller oil seal on the top of the impeller housing. All the seals came from seal kit using the numbers in the videos links (including the brass bushing removal tool). Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video and links. Excellent!
When you mention the inner seal on the prop shaft ...do you mean the one that is inside the gear case head that has the pressed brass bushing inside the end of it? If so ...i take it that the pressed brass bushing has to be pulled out to install that inner prop seal....how do you get that brass bushing out?
Great Tutorial I can now tackle my 1972 25253R with confidence. I too ordered the parts suggested although I have no idea what I will truly need. The motor was rebuilt in 1978 when I bought my boat. I looked at the HD seal and not only is the price crazy!, $7.99 for less than a foot of seal, the shipping is OUTRAGEOUS! for something that can fit comfortably and safely in a standard envelope ...... $5.81 for shipping. Ain't no way! I'll add extra glue and call it close enough. Thanks for a good video, I know I will reference it a couple more times before I do the deed.
I notice the impeller fins inside the pump housing are pointing left (as pictured in this video) , that would mean you have a rare counter clockwise rotating engine? My 83' Evinrude (E25RCTE) is a clockwise rotation powerhead (cited: Seloc #`1302 manual); which means my impeller fins point to the right looking at same vantage point as stated in your video.
What about the two pins ...if they are in your upper lower unit half...I am rebuilding a 1961 Johnson FD-15 18 hp, and one pin looks to be sheared off, it is the one that is forward, farthest away from the prop. The one near the prop is fine, and looks to go into the hole on that bearing, like you showed. The other bearing has a channel in it...thinking that pin that looks sheared off fits into that channel? Or is it just flush with the surface where the bearing rides...and is ok? That is all that is holding me back...the knowledge of that pin!!
Hi Terry. Thanks for asking. The breakout assembly diagram for your lower unit is here: bit.ly/2KjJomM . The prop shear pin is find number 42, this is the pin thats closest to the prop and NOT the pin in questions. I think the pin you are referring to is find number 17 and you can buy one at iboats.com here: bit.ly/2NfaqJM. Its the pin the top half of find number 9 and that slides into find number 39. Am I understanding you correctly?
Right, number 42, prop shear pin, or as they call it, drive pin, is not in question. Yes...the pin that goes into #39 is there...the pin in the opposite side however, same "level" as that pin, or forward, in relation to looking from the prop, is the pin in question, which it seems goes into the channel along the length of the bearing, #28...if you look at the photo of #28, p/n 391018 the channel is facing you, that is the channel I am talking about. I am thinking there should be a certain height that pin should be at, and that it is supposed to hold that bearing in place so it doesn't spin? Would that be correct? By that drawing, I wasn't sure if #17 was that pin or not...looking up the part number for #17 which is 300611, some places call it the pin for the impeller, #8, which is a totally different p/n, 300771!! So I was really confused. Thank you for your videos and your answer...I could not get an answer from anyone or anywhere! Whew!
@@TIGERHD1 I found that the gear as on the video with bearing at front gear and needle bearing has no second pin. The gear with bushing insted - has that pin and often it pressed in - so you would need to drill lit out to remove and after put new one - D 1/8''
I have a 1978 25hp evinrude and I noticed some oil leaking from the lower unit and was wondering if the seal kit you recommended would be the correct kit to use. Also the brass seal removal tool is no longer available. Not sure how I would extract that seal.
Hi mate. My kit arrived from Amazon. Thanks. Thanks for the buying links. At 1:20 you only install one (x1) seal. Silver side up, rubber side down to needle bearing. Mine has two (2x) of the same seals. What orientation should they be re-installed? 1978 Evinrude 25HP 25803C. Thanks!!!
Here is the diagram of your gearcase: www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1978&hp=25&model=25803C&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Gearcase-25+Hp If yours has two, it should be installed with the lower one being silver side down and the upper one being silver side up. If you look, in this configuration the rubber seals inside will be at opposite angles providing a good seal for the driveshaft.
thisoldoutboard - thanks mate I saw that. Picture only shows one (1x) seal, but the detail/text below for part #39 confirm: “2 required per assembly”. Do you know what orientation they both go? :(
it should be installed with the lower one being silver side down and the upper one being silver side up. If you look, in this configuration the rubber seals inside will be at opposite angles providing a good seal for the driveshaft.
after following your steps the motor seems to be highly revved, and it is not the speed throtttle, and ideas what can be the issues please? also is it normal that the water pump is too tight that the blades bend when inserted?
@@thisoldoutboard how to correctly install the shaft of the waterpump impeller becasue the water pump is still not peeing and motor is over heating in seconds. also the motor is highly revved. any ideas how to lower the revs on 2 stroke outboard apart from the speed cable?
I have a 1981 Evinrude 20 HP long shaft. I don't see a 20 HP listed for 1981 under IMPELLER / WATER PUMP PART NUMBERS. Would the kits for the 1981 25 HP fit the 20 HP?
Are you sure it’s an 81. I see Evinrude only made 15 and 25 hp motors in 81. They started back with the 20 in 85. The 1985 water pump impeller part number is Sierra 18-3051 Impeller with key is 0395289
Could you kindly specify another link to the thicker spaghetti seal. Your supplier appears to be indefinarely out of stock and I just got the skinny one after ordering elsewhere under the specified part number. Thanks !
@@thisoldoutboard 78 johnson 25 hp. It stop pumping water all of a sudden so I put in a new impeller and still will not work. I use your video as a guide and still not working.
Olá amigo não sei se você vai entender o meu português más você montou as paletra do rotor da bomba d'água na altura do vídeo 5:20 do lado errado as paletas tem que ser montado com as paletas virada sentindo os vão que tem na tampa do rotor e um furo que encaixa o cano que leva a água para cima blz amigo.
Going to give this a go for the first time. I have a question though, I have oil leaking from the skeg bolts, is there anything that can be used to seal that up? Or is it supposed to just be tightened extremely tight and that’s it?
What do any of y’all recommend to clean the seal surfaces. Especially the where the spaghetti seal goes. Mine has never been taken apart and there seems to be some gasket material used to hold the seal in place and it’s very hard to get out.
@@thisoldoutboardthanks for the reply! My Evinrude is torn apart in my garage and I'm currently waiting on the kit from Amazon. The only other thing that I noticed when taking mine apart was a seal below the water pump plate. I noticed this seal comes in the kit in your description and was just wondering why you didn't install the seal in your video. Thanks for your help!
Any hint on how to tell the correct direction for the impeller (if, theoretically, I wasn't paying attention when I pulled it out)? From at lease one comment, it sounds like some models turned different directions... thanks!
The Sierra seal kit you used comes with 2 o'ring seals of a diameter that fits the propeller bushing: a skinny one and a beefier one. It appears I had a skinny one instaled but it is quite weathered and is leaking. Which of the 2 did you installi since I have the exact same unit as the one you worked on ?
@@thisoldoutboard Thanks a million. Frankly, I could make the difference between an O'ring and a spaghetti seal. But mind you, I ordered the better spaghetti seal you recommended. You are the best. Thanks again for your great vidéos !
This was a great video, thank you. I have inherited a year 2000 25hp Johnson (J25PL3SSB) and I've been trying to make comparisons with your project here and parts/kits available, particularly for sealing the actual gear case. I've just started to research this, and will continue looking. If you have any advice, I would appreciate it. I pulled the boat last Monday and noticed black oily water pouring out of the prop shaft when I lowered the unit to drain. Gear oil seeping out of weep holes as well. I'm sure the seals are bad. I'm trying to decide whether I should attempt the repairs or pick up the phone. Thanks again... your video gives me some idea of what I'm up against. Take care.
PS... A couple days after pulling the pontoon, I went to fog the carbs / cylinders and drain / replace gear oil. With the motor in a 40 gal bin of water, it was not circulating water after about 10 seconds, so I shut motor off. So I'm assuming the impeller is also toast... so I have that going for me as well. :)
on the upper seal (driveshaft seal) I pulled 1 old one out. The kit comes with 2 driveshaft seals, it looks like there is room for both to fit. I know some outboards show putting both seals in (springside down facing oil, and springside up facing water). looks like your kit also came with 2. You chose to put one seal in. Did you think about using both?
@joshjames253-did you ever get an answer to this question when you did yours? I also have an extra seal for the driveshaft and I believe my prop shaft has two seals so I am a little confused also. Thanks for any help that you can give me.
@timenfinger41 install both back to back with one spring facing oil and the other water. Another way to describe it is with the flat metal sides touching each other. If you look inside with them held in your hand like that you will see a conical / frustum seal. Hope that helps
@thisoldoutboard-thank you very much for the answer. I also have 2 seals for the prop shaft I believe, the fat seal and a skinnier seal that looks like the drive shaft seals, I have a 1984 25hp. Do I put the skinny seal in first, shiny side up and then the fat seal on top of that? I really appreciate your help very much.
@timenfinger41 yes see diagram here www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1984&hp=25&model=E25ECRS&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=GEARCASE
How are you testing this? Is the motor in a barrel? Or is it on the boat in the water? If you are testing in a barrel...make sure you get the water level a few inches above the lower unit mating line. If you don't, it wont pump water. You cant just get the water level to the inlet screen
@@thisoldoutboard yes in a barrel and water level are well above the water inlet. I get a good amount coming out the exhaust but nothing out the tell tail, it's not cloged.
You put the impeller in backwards! My 79 25 hp motor looking down on is turning clockwise so looking UP should be counter clockwise which would make the impeller arms going to the right. They should have made all water pumps out of stainless steel not plastic.
Hi mate, I just purchased the kit via your links/Amazon (below). Hope that helps your cause :) A question - the clutch dog “lips” / raised parts are different. One side smooth/flat. Another side has ridges/grooves. Hope this makes sense. Which direction does it face? Ridged side towards prop end? Thanks!!!!
Logieberra I read the manual and your model has a clutch dog that doesn’t require orienting when you install it. You can see a new one here: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173846924153 It’s symmetrical. I bet why one end is burred is because those were the ears engaging forward gear a they got worn more than the reverse ears. Again, I checked my Seloc manual and it just said “slide the clutch dog onto the propeller shaft splines”
The only what I know how to figure out what years are compatible is to go to www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php, look up your motor year and hp, note the gearcase parts numbers, and then compare them to other years using the same link above. Best of luck
Just finished my 83 Johnson 25hp right now. I had the same issue with the worn clutch dog, but I just flipped it around. I seem to have two small black o rings left over. Also, I was struggling to remove the brass bushing, and the hammering caused a handful of the needle bearing rollers to fall out. I put back as many as I could find, but I'm still missing maybe three. This needle bearing is the one under the impeller. I hope I don't have to replace it as I have already installed all the seals.
The seal kits apply to many different years. It’s common to have extra parts. Regarding the roller bearing. I personally would correct it but it’s always your call.
True. Looks like I'm gonna have to buy another lower seal kit as pulling out those seals again will sure tear them up. For the orientation of the seals, the seal kit had two thicker ones, one thin, and the outer prop seal. Does it matter which one goes where? When I took off the two under the impeller, they both were the thinner ones, and same goes for the one behind the prop. The seal kit came with two thicker ones and one thin. I had installed the two thicker ones under the impeller, but a small part protrudes out. Since it doesn't touch the above plate, I'm assuming it doesn't matter as long as it is selling the shaft.
@@bobbyiskingif I remember correctly, the thicker one goes on the prop shaft and the two thinner ones go back-to-back against each other (silver side facing outward) up under the impeller.
The seal kit came with only one smaller one and two thick ones. Next time when I install them again, I'll use one big and one small on the impeller side.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Just got done following your video to complete the rebuild of a 68 Johnson 20 horse and thank you so much. It went so smoothly. I appreciate your videos and what you do.
I watched your video on doing the seals on the lower unit of old Evinrude. Outstanding video! I bought a kit for my 1963 18hp Fastwin. I started the job. The shaft seal and O ring fit great. I went to insert the upper seal for the shift rod and found that the new seal is too large. Do you have the smaller one? Also will all the other parts fit correctly? Anyone? All set. I re-watched the video and selected a different seal. My package came with extras which confused me.
Do you have any videos showing how to remove the whole lower unit ?
Great video. Mine appears to be leaking gear oil out on the upper union and out the exhaust. I figured there was a seal up there surprised there isn't. Now I'm not sure what seal is allowing that to happen. I do have the seal kit but a little puzzled.
Great videos, both Part 1 and Part 2. Watched both to do the lower end seals on my 1981 Johnson 25 and impeller replacement. A couple of differences from the video including an inner and outer oil seal on the propeller shaft (only the outer shown in video) and there is an impeller oil seal on the top of the impeller housing. All the seals came from seal kit using the numbers in the videos links (including the brass bushing removal tool). Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video and links. Excellent!
When you mention the inner seal on the prop shaft ...do you mean the one that is inside the gear case head that has the pressed brass bushing inside the end of it? If so ...i take it that the pressed brass bushing has to be pulled out to install that inner prop seal....how do you get that brass bushing out?
Great Tutorial I can now tackle my 1972 25253R with confidence. I too ordered the parts suggested although I have no idea what I will truly need. The motor was rebuilt in 1978 when I bought my boat. I looked at the HD seal and not only is the price crazy!, $7.99 for less than a foot of seal, the shipping is OUTRAGEOUS! for something that can fit comfortably and safely in a standard envelope ...... $5.81 for shipping. Ain't no way! I'll add extra glue and call it close enough. Thanks for a good video, I know I will reference it a couple more times before I do the deed.
Where can I get the bearing to go in there
I notice the impeller fins inside the pump housing are pointing left (as pictured in this video) , that would mean you have a rare counter clockwise rotating engine? My 83' Evinrude (E25RCTE) is a clockwise rotation powerhead (cited: Seloc #`1302 manual); which means my impeller fins point to the right looking at same vantage point as stated in your video.
The fins will correct themselves once the drive shaft is turned.
@@thisoldoutboard So put it in wrong and have faith??
@Russ Gallagher I believe Kevin was using sarcasm! Wake Up!
Did that year have a magnet under the shaft? if so how do you get those back in after it has been removed?
Thank you for this mine is missing the spring and bearings on the clutch dog not having any luck finding what I need
Marineengine.com
Good job, I have 2 units to overhaul. Good tips.
If I can't find the spaghetti seal is it OK to use linguini instead?🤔
U missed a o ring I believe on the prop shaft mine calls for 2 big ones one thick towards the prop the thin o ring in the back from my diagram
Your list does not have the kit for a 1983 E25TELCTE, can you give me some help here ?
Sierra Marine 18-2657 or BRP 396352 is what you need for your 83
What about the two pins ...if they are in your upper lower unit half...I am rebuilding a 1961 Johnson FD-15 18 hp, and one pin looks to be sheared off, it is the one that is forward, farthest away from the prop. The one near the prop is fine, and looks to go into the hole on that bearing, like you showed. The other bearing has a channel in it...thinking that pin that looks sheared off fits into that channel? Or is it just flush with the surface where the bearing rides...and is ok? That is all that is holding me back...the knowledge of that pin!!
Hi Terry. Thanks for asking.
The breakout assembly diagram for your lower unit is here: bit.ly/2KjJomM . The prop shear pin is find number 42, this is the pin thats closest to the prop and NOT the pin in questions.
I think the pin you are referring to is find number 17 and you can buy one at iboats.com here: bit.ly/2NfaqJM. Its the pin the top half of find number 9 and that slides into find number 39.
Am I understanding you correctly?
Right, number 42, prop shear pin, or as they call it, drive pin, is not in question.
Yes...the pin that goes into #39 is there...the pin in the opposite side however, same "level" as that pin, or forward, in relation to looking from the prop, is the pin in question, which it seems goes into the channel along the length of the bearing, #28...if you look at the photo of #28, p/n 391018 the channel is facing you, that is the channel I am talking about. I am thinking there should be a certain height that pin should be at, and that it is supposed to hold that bearing in place so it doesn't spin? Would that be correct? By that drawing, I wasn't sure if #17 was that pin or not...looking up the part number for #17 which is 300611, some places call it the pin for the impeller, #8, which is a totally different p/n, 300771!! So I was really confused.
Thank you for your videos and your answer...I could not get an answer from anyone or anywhere! Whew!
@@TIGERHD1 I found that the gear as on the video with bearing at front gear and needle bearing has no second pin. The gear with bushing insted - has that pin and often it pressed in - so you would need to drill lit out to remove and after put new one - D 1/8''
I have a 1978 25hp evinrude and I noticed some oil leaking from the lower unit and was wondering if the seal kit you recommended would be the correct kit to use. Also the brass seal removal tool is no longer available. Not sure how I would extract that seal.
Add fresh gear oil and replace washer then tighten drain screws.
Hi mate. My kit arrived from Amazon. Thanks. Thanks for the buying links. At 1:20 you only install one (x1) seal. Silver side up, rubber side down to needle bearing. Mine has two (2x) of the same seals. What orientation should they be re-installed? 1978 Evinrude 25HP 25803C. Thanks!!!
Here is the diagram of your gearcase: www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1978&hp=25&model=25803C&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Gearcase-25+Hp
If yours has two, it should be installed with the lower one being silver side down and the upper one being silver side up. If you look, in this configuration the rubber seals inside will be at opposite angles providing a good seal for the driveshaft.
thisoldoutboard - thanks mate I saw that. Picture only shows one (1x) seal, but the detail/text below for part #39 confirm: “2 required per assembly”. Do you know what orientation they both go? :(
it should be installed with the lower one being silver side down and the upper one being silver side up. If you look, in this configuration the rubber seals inside will be at opposite angles providing a good seal for the driveshaft.
thisoldoutboard - legend. Thanks !
Good video,Do u know what gear seal kit I need for a 1956 15hp Johnson?
after following your steps the motor seems to be highly revved, and it is not the speed throtttle, and ideas what can be the issues please? also is it normal that the water pump is too tight that the blades bend when inserted?
Yes the impeller vanes will be curved after install. Unclear on what you mean by highly revv’d after a lower unit install
@@thisoldoutboard how to correctly install the shaft of the waterpump impeller becasue the water pump is still not peeing and motor is over heating in seconds. also the motor is highly revved. any ideas how to lower the revs on 2 stroke outboard apart from the speed cable?
I have a 1981 Evinrude 20 HP long shaft. I don't see a 20 HP listed for 1981 under IMPELLER / WATER PUMP PART NUMBERS. Would the kits for the 1981 25 HP fit the 20 HP?
Are you sure it’s an 81. I see Evinrude only made 15 and 25 hp motors in 81. They started back with the 20 in 85. The 1985 water pump impeller part number is Sierra 18-3051
Impeller with key is 0395289
@@thisoldoutboard I bought it used and the model number on the motor mount bracket is E20CRLCIM.
@@thisoldoutboard Thanks. Great video.
Could you kindly specify another link to the thicker spaghetti seal. Your supplier appears to be indefinarely out of stock and I just got the skinny one after ordering elsewhere under the specified part number. Thanks !
Amazon has this, amzn.to/2pb8p6L, which is the same part number as the one out of stock
I notice you didn't use any gasket or seal for the water pump. Is it required?
no, i do not recommend using gasket sealer near the water pump.
@@thisoldoutboard ok cool. So my water pump housing have deep scratches and gouges, will that make the water pump not work at all?
@@kambo209 it will work but maybe not as efficient. what motor do you have? year and HP
@@thisoldoutboard 78 johnson 25 hp. It stop pumping water all of a sudden so I put in a new impeller and still will not work. I use your video as a guide and still not working.
@@kambo209 most of the time people forget to put the pin back into the driveshaft that spins the impeller. are you sure you put the pin back in?
Olá amigo não sei se você vai entender o meu português más você montou as paletra do rotor da bomba d'água na altura do vídeo 5:20 do lado errado as paletas tem que ser montado com as paletas virada sentindo os vão que tem na tampa do rotor e um furo que encaixa o cano que leva a água para cima blz amigo.
No habla espanol
1959 18hp model 15028. I can't find right detent spring and ball bearings
Yours doesn’t have that
@@thisoldoutboard I found out. Thx for the response. I'm having terrible getting lower unit shift rod to stay in the connector
Does the dowell pin go in the slot in the back of skeg and line up with gear drive?
Question please. Shaft print came with my pump kit 0303067. Does that go at the top of shaft under spline. 20r73a. Thanks.
Going to give this a go for the first time. I have a question though, I have oil leaking from the skeg bolts, is there anything that can be used to seal that up? Or is it supposed to just be tightened extremely tight and that’s it?
use sealant around the bolt holes on the flying surfaces of the skeg and lower unit clam shell
Thanks for the info
1976 25hp evinrude. Where can I get the pinion and rod? It looks like the gear at the end of the rod that goes in the pinion is rounded off?
Marineengine.com
Should there be any end play in the prop shaft after assembly?
No
What do any of y’all recommend to clean the seal surfaces. Especially the where the spaghetti seal goes. Mine has never been taken apart and there seems to be some gasket material used to hold the seal in place and it’s very hard to get out.
Wire wheel for drill or bench top
What weight, and how much gear oil do you fill it up with?
80-90.
Until it comes out the top hole
@@thisoldoutboardthanks for the reply! My Evinrude is torn apart in my garage and I'm currently waiting on the kit from Amazon. The only other thing that I noticed when taking mine apart was a seal below the water pump plate. I noticed this seal comes in the kit in your description and was just wondering why you didn't install the seal in your video. Thanks for your help!
Any hint on how to tell the correct direction for the impeller (if, theoretically, I wasn't paying attention when I pulled it out)? From at lease one comment, it sounds like some models turned different directions... thanks!
Note the flywheel spin direction when you pull start it and use that as a reference; probably clockwise
@@thisoldoutboard heh. Super simple. Thanks!
would rtv gasket silicon work instead of 847?
The Sierra seal kit you used comes with 2 o'ring seals of a diameter that fits the propeller bushing: a skinny one and a beefier one. It appears I had a skinny one instaled but it is quite weathered and is leaking. Which of the 2 did you installi since I have the exact same unit as the one you worked on ?
I used the beefy one. The prop bushing o ring should be a circle, not the red strip of rubber. The red strip is for the skeg to Lower Unit interface.
@@thisoldoutboard Thanks a million. Frankly, I could make the difference between an O'ring and a spaghetti seal. But mind you, I ordered the better spaghetti seal you recommended. You are the best. Thanks again for your great vidéos !
Great video! Will the 3M Scotch Seal Industrial Sealant 800 work as well as the 3m 847?
Haven’t tried that
@@thisoldoutboard Thanks for your reply. You didn't show installing the inner seals. Are they more difficult to install than the outer seals?
This was a great video, thank you. I have inherited a year 2000 25hp Johnson (J25PL3SSB) and I've been trying to make comparisons with your project here and parts/kits available, particularly for sealing the actual gear case. I've just started to research this, and will continue looking. If you have any advice, I would appreciate it. I pulled the boat last Monday and noticed black oily water pouring out of the prop shaft when I lowered the unit to drain. Gear oil seeping out of weep holes as well. I'm sure the seals are bad. I'm trying to decide whether I should attempt the repairs or pick up the phone. Thanks again... your video gives me some idea of what I'm up against. Take care.
PS... A couple days after pulling the pontoon, I went to fog the carbs / cylinders and drain / replace gear oil. With the motor in a 40 gal bin of water, it was not circulating water after about 10 seconds, so I shut motor off. So I'm assuming the impeller is also toast... so I have that going for me as well. :)
This is about what you will have to do
ruclips.net/video/j2TkhdsHE6Y/видео.html
on the upper seal (driveshaft seal) I pulled 1 old one out. The kit comes with 2 driveshaft seals, it looks like there is room for both to fit. I know some outboards show putting both seals in (springside down facing oil, and springside up facing water). looks like your kit also came with 2. You chose to put one seal in. Did you think about using both?
@joshjames253-did you ever get an answer to this question when you did yours? I also have an extra seal for the driveshaft and I believe my prop shaft has two seals so I am a little confused also. Thanks for any help that you can give me.
@timenfinger41 install both back to back with one spring facing oil and the other water. Another way to describe it is with the flat metal sides touching each other. If you look inside with them held in your hand like that you will see a conical / frustum seal. Hope that helps
@thisoldoutboard-thank you very much for the answer. I also have 2 seals for the prop shaft I believe, the fat seal and a skinnier seal that looks like the drive shaft seals, I have a 1984 25hp. Do I put the skinny seal in first, shiny side up and then the fat seal on top of that? I really appreciate your help very much.
@timenfinger41 yes see diagram here
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1984&hp=25&model=E25ECRS&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=GEARCASE
Great! Thank you very much again!
do one of those seals not go on the shaft directly above the water pump?mine had one when i dissasembled it?underneath the silver cup looking part.
sorry mines a 81 -20 hp johnson.
I just notice the direction the impell er blades are pointed! I have mine installed the other way is that why it's not pumping water?
How are you testing this? Is the motor in a barrel? Or is it on the boat in the water? If you are testing in a barrel...make sure you get the water level a few inches above the lower unit mating line. If you don't, it wont pump water. You cant just get the water level to the inlet screen
@@thisoldoutboard yes in a barrel and water level are well above the water inlet. I get a good amount coming out the exhaust but nothing out the tell tail, it's not cloged.
You put the impeller in backwards! My 79 25 hp motor looking down on is turning clockwise so looking UP should be counter clockwise which would make the impeller arms going to the right. They should have made all water pumps out of stainless steel not plastic.
Where do you go to the find the stuff that you left on spaghetti where do you get that spaghetti at he said it was better to use on
Hi mate, I just purchased the kit via your links/Amazon (below). Hope that helps your cause :) A question - the clutch dog “lips” / raised parts are different. One side smooth/flat. Another side has ridges/grooves. Hope this makes sense. Which direction does it face? Ridged side towards prop end? Thanks!!!!
Logieberra what year/hp is your motor?
thisoldoutboard - thanks mate. Evinrude 25 1978 model 25803C
Logieberra I read the manual and your model has a clutch dog that doesn’t require orienting when you install it. You can see a new one here:
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F173846924153
It’s symmetrical. I bet why one end is burred is because those were the ears engaging forward gear a they got worn more than the reverse ears.
Again, I checked my Seloc manual and it just said “slide the clutch dog onto the propeller shaft splines”
A new clutch dog for your motor is part 390030
thisoldoutboard nice! Thanks mate :)
Wow...I think you may have saved me hundreds of dollars...What seal kit do I need for E20CRCR 1984
?
Evinrude made 20 Hp motors in the 80s starting in 85. This video doesnt apply to that type of lower unit.
@@thisoldoutboard do you have a video that does apply to this unit. I hope to watch one of your videos to fix my motor
I have a 2005 25hp Johnson. I need to completely rebuild the foot. What year model foots will work with this motor?
The only what I know how to figure out what years are compatible is to go to www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php, look up your motor year and hp, note the gearcase parts numbers, and then compare them to other years using the same link above.
Best of luck
Just finished my 83 Johnson 25hp right now. I had the same issue with the worn clutch dog, but I just flipped it around. I seem to have two small black o rings left over. Also, I was struggling to remove the brass bushing, and the hammering caused a handful of the needle bearing rollers to fall out. I put back as many as I could find, but I'm still missing maybe three. This needle bearing is the one under the impeller. I hope I don't have to replace it as I have already installed all the seals.
The seal kits apply to many different years. It’s common to have extra parts. Regarding the roller bearing. I personally would correct it but it’s always your call.
True. Looks like I'm gonna have to buy another lower seal kit as pulling out those seals again will sure tear them up. For the orientation of the seals, the seal kit had two thicker ones, one thin, and the outer prop seal. Does it matter which one goes where? When I took off the two under the impeller, they both were the thinner ones, and same goes for the one behind the prop. The seal kit came with two thicker ones and one thin. I had installed the two thicker ones under the impeller, but a small part protrudes out. Since it doesn't touch the above plate, I'm assuming it doesn't matter as long as it is selling the shaft.
@@bobbyiskingif I remember correctly, the thicker one goes on the prop shaft and the two thinner ones go back-to-back against each other (silver side facing outward) up under the impeller.
The seal kit came with only one smaller one and two thick ones. Next time when I install them again, I'll use one big and one small on the impeller side.
Very good service (cool) service
Thanks for this video I have 1969 evinrude 25hp that I have to redue the lower unit
How did you make out
Thanks for this!
Yes. I also noticed that. Other vise it is a GREAT Video.
Awesome video
Your camera could be a little closer. But good video
Great video man thank you
u should listed part and item needed before assemble
Traducción al español?
awesome video. thanks a lot !
Great video, but you gotta stop sniffing your nose, driven me nuts .