I've Never Made Pants, so I Drafted Some From Scratch
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- I have a complicated relationship with patterns, so I like to dive into projects with some wrapping paper and almost no information!
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During my research of pants I have found out pants that come away/flair at the waist are called culottes, fitted at waist but out at the high hip are trousers, fitted at waist and high hip but out at low hip are slacks. 😁 I bought a used fashion design textbook that has So much amazing information!
Oh my god, I love this information so much!
Fascinating.
Please let us know what this textbook’s name is?
Wow I never knew that! \What was the book called please?
It's Patternmaking For FASHION DESIGN By Helen Joseph-Armstrong. I have the 4th edition in the spiral form. Be careful because the cheaper, newer book isn't from the US. I kept looking and found it at a used bookstore online for less than $50. Hope this helps 😁💙
As a seamstress of many years I love your videos. I began sewing in High School back when dinosaurs still roamed the planet. And am considering offering a basic sewing class locally and your videos are helping me figure out what areas are the most complicated for a new sewing student. You have done an amazing job of figuring this out and kudos to you for everything that has worked out and everything that hasn't but has taught you about sewing skills. In the class I took so many decades ago I also learned about fabric drape and how it affects how something looks in the end and how to create my own patterns using the measurements of my clients or family member who want a one of kind item. I have done everything from wedding dresses thru doll clothing and you are an amazing teacher for beginner sewers will recommend you to my students who get frustrated with projects that may make them want to quit or give up on sewing. Keep up the good work and the best of luck in all future videos.
You're so kind, thank you! I love that seeing what I struggle with can help you figure out how to teach others - that's awesome!
omg you are brave. all of my pants are "make something MASSIVE and then pleat it into a waistband and ankle cuffs" and you just jump right to drafting your own fitted cigarette pants.
Brave or ridiculous! XD
My grandma and mom said if you don’t have a pattern find something that fits and take a pattern off of that and then make the changes in style that you want but keep the base pattern and fit. The slim pants I think the seam down the front leg is just a sewn pintuck not an actual seam, that’s what my mom’s pants were.
Oo that makes a lot of sense... I'll have to try that soon!
Having ironed a lot of pants and slacks and trousers and such, I've never seen any with a seam down the front, but I have seen a fold with a 1/8" seam down the front. I appreciated those for being able to find where I needed to iron them, but it did lead to a bit of premature wear.
A long video for detail when you're doing things like manually drafting is better than a super short one!
Also I LOVE the cigarette pants. They look so well fitted!
Eep thank you so much!
Same. I think the cigarette pants look fantastic on you!
I am learning so much from your drafting and creative work. As a scientist, I appreciate your research and post-creative assessments. It helps me look at my pieces with a better eye. Thank you for all your time and consideration!
I'm impressed you never mentioned how the crotch fits: I assume it's because you didn't encouter any problems with that. From what I've seen and my (limited) personal experience, it's the hardest part to fit! So maybe I should draft next time instead of using a pattern! Anyways, thank you for the awesome content! I just came across you channel yesterday and now I'm binge watching everything. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so much and welcome!!
Actually the crotch fit in all three turned out pretty much okay, and let's be honest - I have no idea how! Maybe it does come from self-drafting with my own specific measurements but I am not sure. I might've just gotten lucky!
The best, easiest and correct pant pattern is in Mrs Helen Armstrong design/pattern making book. When I was studying in Germany ( here they make the best pants) ALL the teachers and pattern makers there, all lauded Mrs Armstrong’s instructions for pants. It is easy to follow and understand. n.b. When you take the side measurement, make sure you sit on a FLAT seat. Otherwise you may be off 3/8”. Good luck…!!
If you do decide to try to learn, please know that the metric system is quite straightforward and to go between a mm, cm, m and km, you just add ant take away zeroes or for decimals move the comma by how many zeroes is the difference. I have seen very concise, straightforwards videos on youtube explaining the system. It all divides/multiplies by 10, 100, 1000 etc.
The great easy drafting book I have is Cal Patch's book, "Design it Yours Clothes" but the one I use all the time is "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" by Helen Joseph Armstrong, which was my textbook in college. It's pricy but you can find older editions, the main difference is the designs.
We also used "Designing Apparel through the Flat Pattern" which was much cheaper and still good.
I studied under Mrs Armstrong..!! And it was the greatest experience because she was lovely and caring person and teacher. 45 years ago..!!
And the pant pattern still works..!!
Wow, what an amazing experience it must of been. Talk about learning from a real master.
I've actually going lazily through her fourth addition. It's very illuminating.
Those cigarette pants came out so good, and I love the red! I also like the other two, but the cigarette pants really hit that Mary Tyler Moore looks on the head. They remind me of my very stylish Grammy.
Aw thank you! I was genuinely surprised by how decent they looked in the end... I just wish they were more comfortable to wear!
Those "cigarette" pants were called "capri" pants when MTM wore them on the Dick Van Dyke Show. Todays "capri" pants are closer to "pedal pushers" when I was young. And "beach combers" were both fuller and shorter than capris, but not as short as pedal pushers.
If you’ve never tried the Top Down, Center Out method of pants fitting, you should check it out. I made a great fitting pair of pants on the first try. It’s in the summer 2022 issue of Threads and the Crooked Hem has a great series on it.
I’m so glad I’m not the only one that uses wrapping paper to make patterns!
I didn't even make it 2 months into the pandemic before getting sick. I moved in the end of April 2020 and caught it while moving. It was very mild I pretty much did nothing but sleep for 5 days. I had absolutely no energy. Couldn't even stand long enough to take a shower.
I think you would like the closet historian youtube channel. Great job on the pants
I’m amazed that these came out so well, given your small amount of information on the subject and the fact that you had Covid! Those cigarette pants made need some tweaking but they are very flattering on you. If you haven’t tried it yet, you might want to look into the “top down center out method” for fitting pants. They start with the waist band.
Oo I'll do some research on that, thank you!!
@@gettheetothestitchery ruclips.net/video/0Cgo5s8yC1I/видео.html
I really encourage you you to look at Mrs Armstrong’s instructions-it will be simple-you have a good brain-it will make sense!
The triangle thing: When you don't do a straight pantleg or end of a cuff, then you have to make the same angle but in reverse below to be able to cuff or seam it fittingly without having issues with it being too tight or gathered when seaming the end.
OMG. That video you watched lead you down a rabbit hole. Here's an easy way to do it. Pick out a pair of pants that you love and clone them. RUclips has lots of videos how to do this. Then when your pattern is drafted, go to your thrift store and find a sheet. Super cheap, and loads of fabric. Do your mock up on that. Then do your alterations and then sew the pants on your good fabric.
That was incredible. Glad u r feeling better.
The waistband dropping problem is easy to fix by adding elastic in before it is folded over. Cut the elastic a couple of inches shorter than the waistband, fix it at both ends, and fold and finish the waistband. Adds SO much comfort and wearability. I never make a waistband without it anymore.
Cigarette pants are adorable! Love them on you. Very flattering, showing your hourglass shape. Bummer they’re not comfy. Shorts are cute too.
Your top at the end is super cute!
I’m planning to make my first pair of pants sometime this year, and you’re giving me courage! Great video, and I hope you feel back to your energetic self soon.
I'm here to boost your confidence! You've totally 100% got this!
Those cigarette pants look so amazing!
The first (and only) pants I made were knit wrap pants that I did not sew any of the edges of. I wear them all the time. Also, don't try to make biscuits from scratch when you're sick. Mine did not come out good at all.
Wow, this was fascinating! Especially all the calculations for the cigarette pants. (Where I was in the 80s, we called them peglegs.) It also explains why storebought pants fit me so badly. Gives me some insight into making adjustments from patterns, though, which is great! Thank you for sharing all of this!
i now feel like I need some of those wide leg pants... Gonna have to see if I have any fabric that would work for something like that... All three are very cute! Great job for your first try at drafting pants.
I am with you on the inches and I am English, ❤
I love your videos. ❤ Your approach to designing and sewing is so interesting…. And they always turn out well. 😊Amazing! Best videos! 🎉🎉
Aw thank you so much!
For the record, I want your mug....
Great video. As we age, the figure changes. I've had master patterns for years (68 now), but I'm in need of a new pattern not only for fit, but to accommodate my stance, and a changed inseam. I also find that my old pattern has legs that are too full. I'm having fun putting a better pattern together, just like you did here. Thanks for the measurement and drafting tips especially!! 🎉😊
How bizarre that I'm finally getting around to watching this one, with you saying you've got the virus, and oh, look! I tested positive for it yesterday. Fun times, as you like to say. I had places to be yesterday, but yeah, I spent the day at home feeling like... well, like how you feel when you're sick with that virus. Seems to be a fairly mild case, thank goodness. And by the way, I love your bold attitude -- I've never made pants before, I don't have a pattern, so yeah, I can do this! And yes, you can! You're amazing! Coming back at the end of the video, I think those cigarette pants look amazing on you -- they really do give you that hourglass figure. I love the concept of the palazzo pants, and I think yours look good, but I can see what you mean about the waistband being loose and the whole thing fitting a little too tight around the hips; wouldn't give it a 4/10, because I think they're sewn beautifully, so I would rate it higher. I hope you'll make another video making them again. I have a pair of shorts with that ruffled top -- a paper bag top? I love that name! Mine don't have the cuff at the bottom though, so I like yours better. But then again, mine are denim, so there's that -- extra points for being denim. 😉 (I'm a child of the 60s and 70s, you always get extra points for denim!) But then again, you made yours, so extra points for that... Yeah, I think it evens out. I would say the virus is making me ramble, but I think I do that even without the virus, so maybe I'll just shut up and go to bed.
I love the cigarette pants! Winner!!!
Respectfully... my brain just kinda made white noise throughout your entire explanation of the pants drafting math 😂 will definitely rewatch when I try to draft myself a pair
Despite the fit issues you have in them, they all look good on you
Ayyyy pants are hardddd, they look great for your first tries
Thank you so much!
Trousers scare me a lot, I would like to try making them some day but they're scary. This video actually gave me some hope. I think you did the right thing and just got second hand fabric and went for it. I think the outcome is pretty good! Especially considering the fact you had covid while drafting them. I just had covid for the third time, despite vaccinations and masks, sigh, and I couldn't do anything that hard. I was able to do some light knitting at day 4 or 5 before that strict bed rest. Very annoying, I understand your impatience!
I don't know if you watch her videos but the TheClosetHistorian does a lot of tutorials on how to draft patterns for different things, including pants; I've found that her videos are not just informative but fun to watch as well because she's very much into vintage clothing styles and I think she did a cigarette pant as well. She also goes over dart manipulation and how to do it
Having a couple of inches extra on the leg width is a bonus during warm weather and the waist needs space for the size of the waist before the two inches you lose during a period for comfort .
Awesome project. They all look amazing
See as you drafted the cigarette pants off centre they came out looking OK re drafted correctly and shifting the front darts then you would perfect them . Agree Palazzo pants coming from the waist far more flattering.
I think that you shouldn't "center" the middle line of your pant leg (but make it one half inshes or so to the back) so the seams can be slightly to the back of your ganement and less visible went it's done. I read it in a sewing book, I don't know if it help - and sorry english isn't my first langage)
Lovely! So impressive!
I'm currently working on my first pair of pants. It's my second piece I'm making at all... I'm drafting it myself, making a reverse split-side pair of fitted pants with slanted pockets. Is it smart? No, definitely not :-P Am I learning stuff? Yes, definitely ;-)
Like, pants need darts to fit correctly, and you should put them in before sewing on your waistband :')
I'm also learning how to fix the fit, and I'm actually quite pleased with myself with how much I've been able to improve them after "finishing" them :)
Centimeters are listed on the back of your measuring tape
Thanks for the videos, I ponly found them recently and am enjoying watching your process and your honesty when you are unsure of what to do or how to do it. Also your review at the end is good. I watched the adjustable skirt with side pockets and the massive circle dress!!!
Fun fact: the reason so many ready-to-wear pants/shorts look terrible in the crotch is b/c they save money by averaging the difference between the front and back crotch depth and making all the pieces the same size/shape
Try looking up sewing videos on RUclips,they show measurements and techniques on how to get the best result for a garment of clothing,toys and accessories including all types of bags .
those red pants that ended up being too tight look soooooo amazing :O
too bad they arent wearable
You: actually takes the time to make the shorts have a longer crotch in the back so that they fit the booty
Me: says "fuck that" and makes basketball shorts that are as loose as I can make them
getting over your concept of "not a great look" ... yeah. That'd be empire or Regency waistline for me, despite the fact that since I have a thick waist, short risec and no hips to speak of, it's probably a good look on me, my brain always pings that as "maternity wear".
Drafting pants is also on my to-do list because off the rack women's pants have never fit me (except off-the-hip jeans cause I could wear those around my waist) and my men's work pants are all wearing out and that brand (I bought like 20 pairs 20 years ago) no longer exists. Fun part is figuring out how my measurements lie... can't use my "natural" waist cause it's up above the bottom of my ribcage, can't use my "this is where I want a waistband" body measurement cause the waistband will slide off my narrow hips, I don't have room between my bottom rib and top of my hip for a straight belt... and the actual button-to-buttonhole measurement of pants I currently wear seems to have zero relation to my acutal body measurements, but at least I know that before I start! I'm going to try with the 1895 Keystone trouser drafting instructions and see if that makes a wearable mockup or a disaster.
Do you think the legs on the cigarette pants were so weird because of that shift to one side? The upper part sure hugs your figure really nicely though!
I like your swooshy pants though, once I figure out how my measurements are gonna lie THIS time, I might try a modification like that. Nothing's ever tight around my hips unless it's a waistband falling down LOL
The Triangular B is a crotch gusset
your best friend if you hate conversion is one of those measuring tapes that have both cm and in, i have at least 2 of them, one of which is taped to my desk for easy access. also, i studied professional pattern drafting and jesus christ why does this person use such minuscule fractions, that's not necessary.
goodness, the grain fudging you have to do to make pants the right shape for a butt.
those cigarette pants are friggen adorable
As a French all those inch stuff have lost me completely, but I nonetheless and as always loved seing you sew. Realy I seems to can't go tired of your vidéos 🥰
Ps: Sorry for the possible mistakes, I'm not as fluant as I want to be. So don't hesitate to correct me 😉
Can you explain the pin/cutting thing you do to cut your fabric? I'm super new to this, and seriously struggle to cut fabric around a pattern..... Have never seen someone doing it the way you do.
I am having to adjust or draft any patterns I use due to size and using brown craft paper if that makes any sense.
Yeah! So when I make my own patterns out of wrapping paper, I find it's too thick to pin the paper onto the fabric like I would with regular pattern paper, and it tends to tear or just twist a bit and not lay as flat. I could just mark around the entire pattern with tailor's chalk or a washable pen, but I hate making marks on my fabric, so I'll just outline the entire thing with pins and then use those as my cutting line! It's probably way more time consuming, but... eh.
I know it's too late but your cigarette pants pattern may have worked for the platso ones
I cloned a pair of my own pants that's how I made a pants pattern
Why wouldn't you use a pattern that is already made? You shouldn't watch videos on how to make pants, you should watch videos about how to make a pattern.