We wore foundation garments under our dresses (long line bras, girdles or garter belts, stockings, full slips, and can-cans under full skirts over a slip). The foundation garments pulled us in and protected the seams from strain.
I *still* wear foundation garments. They're more comfy these days than the ones my Grandma insisted I wear. Now I don't *have* to, but... it makes enough of a difference that I don't like my shape without them >.>
@@Billybloop it all depends on what the material is from what the undergarments are made of...you don't wear a bra under your clothes?. You're making a mountain out of a molehill.
This is how I remember about fabric grain: The warp is the straight grain that runs the length of the fabric along the selvedge. I remember it's the warp because if you engage warp drive you are travelling a long distance. Weft/cross grain is the other direction. If you don't know about warp drive obviously this won't help you lol.
On patterns and dresses in the 1950's, lining would not have been usual due to continuing fabric shortages post WW2. It was usual for women to wear a slip (under garment) edges would have been finished either by hand with whipping stich or with pinking shears.
Yes, a slip was like a lining that you could use with many dresses and skirts. The issue for me was that slips were being made of nylon and I don't think I'm the only one who hated them because of that. And, I wasn't smart enough to get some soft cotton/poly blend and make one!
Nylon sucks big time, but the concept of having a "lining" you can wash separately from the dress itself is very clever. I'e gone back to wearing slips - I just don't buy them in nylon.
Re: Zipper instructions. You sow the seam closed, then baste in the zipper so that it stays straight under the seam when you sow it in and is held in place. This also keeps the seam allowance out of the way when sowing in the zipper. This process gives a way better result than just pinning the zipper to the open pieces of fabric. Then you rip out the seam on top of the zipper so that it’s possible to open and close. You’re welcome for the unsolicited advice. 😊
I know I wasn't really the intended audience for this lovely bit of unsolicited advice, but THANK YOU! I've hated zippers with an unbridled vehemence for years, and this seams (lol) like a wonderful way to clear away the fear I have with zips.
Try getting a zipper that comes in its own package, open up the package carefully and follow the instructions inside. You will have a more-professional looking zipper.
Buy a bunch of thrifted zippers and practice putting in zippers on scraps of fabric until you’re confident with real clothes. Lots of videos online with are similar but even more easy than above directions. I now hand pick (couture method) all my zippers and absolutely love doing it. Loved your video and I’m interested in making this sweet dress.
Basting is done to stop the fabric from stretching as you sew it. Large curves such as neck and arms are baste stitched and straight edges along the bias are sometimes baste stitched. I only learned this a few months ago and went my whole life too lazy to baste anything lol. It makes a big difference for necklines though.
Right idea. Wrong terminology. It's called "stay stitching" and you'd use a normal stitch length for the fabric you're sewing rather than a basting stitch. It works well to keep fabric edges from fraying/stretching and keeps knit fabric edges from curling up.
Basting, in turn. is done to keep the pieces put in place better than with pins. It's not something I use time for in easy places, but it's faster in tricky places than ripping and redoing...
Basting is to hold two or more layers of fabric together so they don't shift during stitching; usually in curved or somewhat tricky seams like set-in sleeves that wouldn't be fun to have to take out and redo. It's usually a long running stitch that is removed after the pieces are sewn together. Stay stitching is done on a songle layer of fabric about 1/8 inch or 2mm into your seam allowance from your eventual stitching line. This helps the fabric keep its shape when adding addition pieces, such as stitching a banded collar into a curved neckline, or when two opposing seams are sewn together (a sleeve head into a shoulder seam). Hope this helps and happy sewing.
Also, you don't need "extra" seal allowance for French seams. In a 5/8ths standard seam, you would use 1/4in for the 1st seam, trim to 1/8th in. Then use 3/8ths in for the final seam. 1/4 = 2/8 + 3/8 = 5/8. No extra needed
I often use flat felled seams to prevent fraying with woven fabrics - especially for sturdy everyday clothes. I used seam tape to wrap the edges on a dupioni silk suit - most money I've ever spent on an outfit ever and worth the extra time/effort. My wedding dress was made from cotton damask - a heavier woven fabric with roses woven into the design. 8 meters x 60 in wide. It was a heavier fabric than recommended but it turned out great and was super comfortable and very pretty
"I like the dress more in theory..." 😂 Benn there before. I feel so sorry for your struggles. My mom made me take home economics for 6 years so most of what you struggle with is already understood before I shop for fabric. (Thank you, mom!) I so admire your tenacity and determination. And you are very entertaining.
Bias is a bit stretchy! And thus, no puckering necklines when used to finish them without having to make a seperate facing. And they forgot to tell you to press the bias into that bias tape shape where both long edges are pressed inwards. Bias tape makers for the folding is the best thing in my opinion. Bias tape can be put as you did it, folded around the edge, or you can sew is rigth side to rigth side with the neckline and fold it all in to the inside like a facing. That is the one I prefer.
Additionally... There are two types of boas tape. "Single fold" is (both of) the raw edges folded in. They count as one fold. For folding it around the edge of the fabric - that's "double fold bias tape" One (set of) fold(s) to enclose the edges, and one in the middle. If you're using pre-made bias tape, either CAN be used for either purpose (particularly if you're getting it clearance or thrift). You just need to be aware of which it is when you're considering if the width will be useful to you. The listed width, will be the "finished width". So if you're ironing the crease out, or in, to use it the opposite way, keep that in mind.
0:52 i keep a self-tabbed journal of everything i learn about my crafting… one for sewing, one for crocheting, and one for miscellaneous crafts lol and by journal, i mean great big binders lol i use card-stock in pretty pastels to make it extra special lol i also create cards for each of my fabrics and attach using archival tape (it doesn’t leave a sticky residue on the fabric unlike other tapes) in which i have all the specs of said fabric written on it such as weave-type, fiber content, whether or not the fabric color bleeds when washed, as well as any recommended laundering instructions… this way, if I’m using more than one fabric for a project, i can match fabric types for similar laundering compatibilities so nothing ever shrinks more than the rest of the item im making
The zipper installation method the pattern recommends is the one The Closet Historian uses most of the time, if anyone wants to see what's supposed to happen, she has a zipper video. If you want a hidden zipper, dislike measuring seam allowances, or are using a "squidgy" fabric, this method - usually used where you have a back seam, and part of it has a zipper - is handy. You mark the bottom of the zipper before sewing the back seam. Where the zipper goes is the longest possible stitch length, the rest, your usual stitch length. Press your seam open. If the fabric takes a crease well, you now have a perfectly accurate lines for your zipper, that are consistant with the rest of your seam. And you can pin the zipper in, lined up perfectly under the based area, and simply sew a U, down one side, square along the bottom (I suggest doing this part by hand cranking to avoid breaking the needle), and back up the other side. Or, with squidgy fabrics. Back stitch, and start from the top again. Then, you pick out the basting stitches.
This is the only way I’ve ever been able to put in a zipper, and I got it perfectly (well, a little wiggly but close enough for government work) on the first try! I cannot recommend it enough!
Oh my goodness I swear every time I got to the fabric store, I tell myself to get pinking shears... and every time, I completely forget! I'm writing it down this time, because that seems like the easiest first step to some fairly finished edges.
@@gettheetothestitchery if you haven't bought pinking shears yet, look in thrift shops. So many adult children, when Mom passes, have no idea what Mom's shears are for so they end up in thrift shops. The same goes for thousands of 50s-60s sewing tools, some that are no longer available or are made of sturdier materials than today's tools.
Once I did a similar video, just 3-4 different simple tops with different fabrics. I know a lot, just from so many years of sewing, but there is so much more to know. As home creators we are at a bit of a disadvantage because we don’t have an entire team to design and troubleshoot, just general fabric recommendations. Your pup certainly seems willing to help! 💕 My best advice which I never skip is to prewash everything, on warm , because so many times things in my life have ended up in the washing machine without pure intention. I then press every inch of the fabric, inspecting for any flaws. Now when working with polyester blends you can somewhat get by without pre washing, but my firmly held opinion is if the fabric does not wash nicely I would far prefer it before I have spent hours sewing .
Novice sewist and lazy laundress. 100% agree - I toss everything in the wash on normal cycle (because inevitably SOMEONE in our house is going to do the same). I'm buying remnants to get the feel of different materials. I'm getting into the habit of taking a picture of remnants with their labels (so I have their fabric content), remove the label, and toss everything I buy from fabric stores into the wash. If the fabric doesn't handle the wash, it goes into my muslin / mock up pile. I also do NOT buy dry-clean only fabric... except for one glorious iridescent partial yard of my favorite colors in silk. That is pegged to be a corset cover. 😂
I know the video is old but I still wanted to leave a comment. All of the dresses look good. If I may, I want to suggest trying lyocell. They make it in different weights but the one I have in mind is the one with a silky finish. It has a beautiful drape, feels smooth. It can be gathered a lot. I wanted to make a chemise dress out of it but still not there yet.
Vintage patterns didn't always have linings because like others have mentioned, fabric shortages.... but also.... women regularly wore undergarments and slips that would have protected the skin from the uncomfortable seams
What fun! Thank you for doing all this work! Here's a tip--when a woven fabric frays really easily or soon after cutting, you can sew a stay stitch all the way around the piece of fabric right after you cut it out. It's usually a tiny bit in from the edge of the fabric, 1/8th if you can manage it, but it will not show since your regular seam allowance will cover it. I'd love to see this pattern again with a four-way stretch knit for the bodice (no zipper) and a woven for the skirt (for maximum floofiness!)!!
I think back in the day they were going for structured clothing and they had different undergarments, because they were still playing with adding to create a form to the clothing. Now a days, knit would be great for the pattern because fast fashion has taught us when clothes don't lay nice it's our bodies fault instead of it being the one size fits all the bodies in that range and undergarments issues.
If previous comments have already pointed this out so sorry. Without an Overlocker / Serger there are a number of ways to prevent fraying. Pinking shears cut a wavy edge on the raw fabric and it doesn't fray. you can sew flat seams, turn the raw edge under and stitch looks much neater you can also zig zag between the seam and the raw edge no fraying
Biais tape is cut like that to make it stretchy, I believe. And you have to fold it in half, iron, open up, fold the raw edges to the midline, iron. I think.
I know this is two years old, and you may never see my comment, but....A number of times in various videos, you've commented that you don't normally sew from patterns. Then I see you having trouble figuring out the construction of various parts of a garment. My mother sewed all her life (and still does some sewing now, even though she's in her late eighties), and she started teaching me to sew when I was six years old. I can make several types of garments without a pattern, but many years of learning *with* patterns taught me a LOT about what to do, and how to do it. Simplicity patterns are (or at least, used to be) really good for teaching those skills -- my mother preferred Simplicity for me when I was young, for that reason. I have the same philosophy about cooking. I can do a great many things without a recipe (including bread). But I *learned* by using the cookbook and recipes! Then I was able to start doing variations on a theme, and eventually to do complete recipes from scratch. I don't look at patterns as a constriction on my creativity, but as a guide to help me make sure I don't do things in the wrong order, or forget a step.
This reminded me of when I was very young and teaching myself to sew. I bought an easy pattern, used a dress weight wool, as instructed and made a half decent frock. Then I decided to buy, for the summer, a cotton fabric, and make the same garment. Needless to say, the lack of ease and movement was a revaluation to my novice mind. I guess I had to learn about fabric qualities the experimental way.
you baste to either keep pieces in place (instead of relying completely on pins to hold pieces together or hold a zipper in place), put temporary stitches that you will pick out later, or to keep the neckline/armholes from stretching while you sew ( curved edges are cut both on the grain and bias and tend to stretch out of shape).
That was really interesting, and I can now strike off some of the fabrics I'd earmarked as possibles for a skirt but wasn't sure of. We don't have many fabric shops here any more so have to mostly buy online, and without being able to handle a fabric to see how it feels and drapes it's tricky to know what will work so seeing a finished article and hearing your comments about it is really useful. Oh, and I am totally in love with your dog.
I'm binging your content because yputube just fed it too me and now I'm addicted... Ik you do not like "bias", and have been confused by on grain and cross grain... but you should do the same dress, same fabric, one on grain, one on bias.
I don’t know if you read comments on old videos, but just in case you do, I’ll comment! On zippers: I think invisible zippers are much easier than traditional (lapped) zippers because you don’t have to do all the basting and lining up and dealing with pucker and all the rest. They are a bit intimidating to approach, and I’ve sewed the first side wrong more times than I can count, but I really prefer them. Tip for zippers - wait for a sale and buy a bunch of longish (12” maybe?) zippers in colors you use. Then say you have a need for an 8” zipper. No problem - whip some stitches from one side of the zipper to the other where you want it to end. Then cut off the part you don’t want and use something like Fray Check which keeps the cut part from unweaving itself. Voila - you don’t have to run out for a zipper every time you make something! On fraying seams, get high quality pinking shears since sergers intimidate you (I have one but still sometimes use pinking shears.) You can even use them with french seams - sew the first seam at about 1/4” and just graze the fabric with the pinking shears. Then sew the second seam as usual. I once had a very fray-prone fabric undo itself even with french seams, but when I did it over and pinked before the second seam, I had no problems at all. And basting - as others have said it can be used to hold layers together, like when you attach a gathered skirt to the bodice - you want to be sure you catch the skirt in the seam without folding down any of the gathered parts (or a fold of the skirt if you are as clumsy as me) so you baste, then I sew just on the inside of my basting and remove the basting afterwards. It is always the longest stitch and it is much easier to pull the threads out on one side than the other (I forget if it is the bobbin thread or the top thread that is easier to pull but I just tug to see which one slides more easily.) Stay stitching is often left in the garment since it is done inside the seam allowance. Having said all that, the truth is that I use invisible zippers for everything except fleece, I don’t baste even when I should, and I never do lapped zippers because they are a pain in the next. And unlike bias in the media (!), cutting on the bias means orienting diagonally. I hate cutting it and I hate folding it and ironing it so I either use commercial bias tape or I figure out other ways to avoid the need for it, like the lining you did or just folding the fabric under twice and top stitching. For all scissors, it is worth paying extra for the ones that have a spring to open them up for the next cut. Fiskar makes them but I think other people do too. I have pairs of that style in regular shears, pinking shears, and little thread clips that I use while I’m sewing. And as my 93 year old mom says, I consider pattern instructions, at best, to be a general suggestion and I tend to ignore huge swaths of them. Sometimes I regret it but usually I don’t. Oh - and like others, I keep a journal of everything I make. I cut little bits of the fabric and any trims and simply tape them in a spiral lined pad - fabric taped to the left page and the right page has the date, the pattern (or patterns as I often combine elements), a simple sketch, the size I used (I made a lot of my kids clothes so it was helpful to be able to look up what size I’d last used for a particular kind of garment; now I sew for my grandkids), the date, and then I write up what I learned and what I’d do differently next time. This saves you from having to learn the same lesson over and over, at least it does if you actually go back and read what you wrote!
Oh my! First time watching your video and only 4 minutes in, I totally get you and all the pattern mumbo-jumbo. I sew the same way. Half reading and then only when necessary . Ha! Most of the 4 minutes , I listened to you but watched your dog. He/she is such a beautiful Aussie . I love Aussies !! They are sooooo smart . I have a blue merle female and a black bi male. They both have ice blue eyes . Anyway, I'm going back to watch your video. I'm hooked. Ha Have fun, and I know you will with your awesome dog. I know I sound cuckoo, but I love Aussies !
I landed on your channel because I started pattern searching and sewing ideas. I think you’re so funny and that doggy is so adorable 😁 Greeting from Canada 🇨🇦
3:34 lol could be referring to a waist-stay which is just a sturdy ribbon attached to the inside of the garment that you snap or hook up before zipping up the dress lol
I've been wondering lately about more heavy/"wintery" fabrics for trousers/skirts/dresses, and if you need specific patterns for them or you can just slap them on any pattern you want
Shirts and blouses made in cotton lawn or poplin for summer can be made in flannel or sateen for winter. Short sleeves can be extended to the wrist, simple rectangles folded in half lengthways and overlapping around your wrist make cuffs. Remember to add seam allowances and hem the bottom 2-3" of the sleeve seam. Poplin/chambray/linen for summer trousers can be replaced with corduroy/twill/suiting for winter. Wool mixes are warmer than cotton, especially when wet. Needlecord converts poplin shirts and dresses to winter too. Edit TLDR heavy fabrics don't have the fluttery effect of lawn/voile but basic styles take both types of fabric for different seasons. Light fabrics fit more loosely so check seam allowance. Pfft. My brain goes into overdrive sometimes. I hope this makes sense.
I've actually been wanting to do this for the longest time! Such a lovely video. If you are still looking for ideas, I found a vintage swimsuit pattern that says you can use knits, denim, and other fabrics that would make awful swimsuits. Like truly horrifying and I've been tempted to try to make one of each fabric type
Oo I love that idea! Particularly, I like thinking of someone actually wearing a denim swimsuit back in the day... doesn't seem comfy! Would be a super fun experiment though!
I use woven fabrics for all my clothing - cotton, viscose, wool and linen - and I don't have a serger. I don't even have a sewing machine currently working so there's not even any zigzag along seam edges. Mum's old machine only did straight stitch and she made ALL my clothes growing up. They were ALL made from woven fabric and weren't lined. I don't remember any seams fraying despite frequent wearing and washing [seams were all 5/8'' seams on patterns in those days, don't know if they still are but this looks like a vintage pattern anyway. If you have an issue with the fabric fraying then there might be an issue with your washing machine because seams were never finished traditionally and they have always lasted [unless using fragile fabrics such as chiffon, thin silk etc]. I just don't understand the worry on this - and in the time this pattern appears to emanate from slips/petticoats would have been worn underneath in any case.
I think basting is mostly lining things up well, either with the longest stitch on the machine or by hand stitching. It then lays flatter when you're sewing than if you have it pinned on. Normally I just pin it and make sure to remove as I go 😂 the times I have bothered to baste, the seam in that area does turn out better, though....
18:44 i feel the same way about zippers lol would absolutely LOVE it if you would do a video about zippers, how you personally select and hand-stitch them in and such lol i always understand when you explain things compared to when others explain things
Referring to the raw seam conversation around 15:40… I use bias tape indiscriminately to cover any inside raw edges that bother me. 😂 it perfectly encases them without too much more work involved.
I like the knit best and the neckline of it best. I like the twill second probably because I like that sort of cotton fabric. I zig-zag my seams so they won't fray and I topstitch the seams so they will lay flat all the time. It takes longer but the garment washes well and only frays a little with the first wash when I trim any threads away and it's great forever. If you tug gently on the fabric and it doesn't move you have the straight of grain. If it stretches just a little you have the crossway grain. If you tug diagonally it will stretch a lot and this is the bias. Generally, the garment is cut out with the top and bottom having the straight of grain going down the middle and the crossway grain across your body. I have done it the opposite way because that was the only way to fit the pieces on the fabric so while it isn't ideal it can work.
The way I remember which way is what is this - which way do I want the material to stretch? I want the torso from boobs to hips to stretch horizontally, so it gets cut on the grain. If it's a handkerchief herm, bias is a fun way to cut since crooked gems aren't an issue. Since all my pants seem to shrink, I don't mind cross-grain in an effort to KEEP them long. 😂😂
Please look up Gretchen Hirsch! She goes by Gertie. She has a few patterns with simplicity, and multiple books. I would love to see you make some of her vintage inspired dresses!
You can just use pinking shears or a pinking blade to keep the inside fabric from fraying. That is what they did a lot in the 50’s which is probably why they didn’t include that in the pattern as it was common then.
Regarding crosswise grain: it goes ACROSS the fabric from salvage to salvage, the width of the fabric. Lengthwise grain goes the whole length of the fabric, 2 yards, 5 yards, 10 yards.. ok, now I'm doubting myself 🤪.
You should always wash and dry your fabric before you cut out the pieces as there could be some shrinkage. Also, when done correctly, bias tape does not have a raw edge. Both the top and bottom edges are supposed to be folded to the center of the tape and iron it down this way.
If you HAVE pinking shears, you can pink the raw edges of your woven cottons so they don't fray. I don't own pinking shears myself because they are expensive.
I found this video interesting as well as entertaining. I haven’t thought much about comparison of fabrics in the past, being as I have not made a habit of repeating patterns. I would be interested in seeing you do a similar video with trousers/palazzo pants. Combined with your excellent video on 10 types of pleats/tucks you might be able to help us get the smooth fit we are after along with the right kind of movement in the legs. (If you follow what I am getting at) My one and only attempt at palazzo pants was too stiff (I used cotton) and made me look several sizes larger than I am.
You have accomplished a lot with these three dresses. I've been through this incomprehension with patterns and emerged, with practice and watching videos, with more understanding. I will say about French seams that it's 3/8" first, trim to half, then1/4". That should make it possible to figure it out for patterns that don't include it... Should.
the way to make bias tape most probably has something to with grainline. its BIAStape, so, to cut something so long on the bias of your fabric would be a little bit wastefull? i guess cutting it in a spiral gives you the diagonal without using up too much fabric? thats my guess
It's a solid guess, I'm pretty sure you're right! I didn't realize at the time that you have to cut the bias tape on a diagonal, so yeah, cutting out a long strip would definitely chew through a chunk of fabric!
Treasurie has a video on making bias tape from a reasonable six of fabric using the spiral method titled: How to Make Continuous Bias Tape (Bias Binding) if that helps anyone in the comments.
@@gettheetothestitcheryYou can also cut bias out of the larger scraps then stitch them together, simply by laying a clear ruler at a 45 degree angle and cutting. 😊
I’m commenting when only half way through… oh how many times I shouted at my screen! Bias makes woven stretchy. If the fabric is too narrow, then piece it together matching the pattern exactly and then big pieces will fit.
18:02 you could totally ad a peplum made from a shortened version of a circle skirt and tun it into and adorable too to wear over a pair of jeggings lol btw, can you tell me what pattern your using, i really want one for myself lol
Oof I wish! I'm such a sunlight person... my partner and I once tried switching our schedule to being up all night and sleeping in the day time (during the pandemic when we had nothing else to do) and I couldn't go too long before I was dying for sun!
@@gettheetothestitchery I'm not a fan of the sun. It's bright, it burns my skin in NO time. Probably why winter dose not bother me. I don't care that the sun sets so soon.
I've just found you... loving your content, I am in Dundee, Scotland and have been sewing around 5 years... dabbled in my youth but now committed. Mywee suggestions with regards to your raw edges...try using some bias tape between your skirt and bodice, encasing your raw edges. Zips...i found basting in place first has helped me... looking forward to catching up with you..xx ❤
![I'm Taking a [Short] Break](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IEB7vtd-f7M/mqdefault.jpg)
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"I get the concept, and yet I don't" could be my life theme 🤣
LOL
I loved how your pup just sits there looking at you …. Lovingly
hahahah he's a little obsessed... I do give him lots of treats
We wore foundation garments under our dresses (long line bras, girdles or garter belts, stockings, full slips, and can-cans under full skirts over a slip). The foundation garments pulled us in and protected the seams from strain.
Full slips would definitely increase the comfort of raw seams against the skin, and allow the dress fabric to slide across the skin!
LOL Fond memories of Mom getting stuck in her girdle. LMBO
I *still* wear foundation garments. They're more comfy these days than the ones my Grandma insisted I wear. Now I don't *have* to, but... it makes enough of a difference that I don't like my shape without them >.>
That doesn't sound physically comfortable especially in hot weather. I live in Hong Kong and could not imagine wearing all that. I would die.
@@Billybloop it all depends on what the material is from what the undergarments are made of...you don't wear a bra under your clothes?. You're making a mountain out of a molehill.
This is how I remember about fabric grain: The warp is the straight grain that runs the length of the fabric along the selvedge. I remember it's the warp because if you engage warp drive you are travelling a long distance. Weft/cross grain is the other direction. If you don't know about warp drive obviously this won't help you lol.
Goodness! What a great way to remember! NOW, I'll never forget! "Make it so"
thank you for the memory tip!!!
This is the most awesome mnemonic ever!
Yay nerds! I know I'm home!
On patterns and dresses in the 1950's, lining would not have been usual due to continuing fabric shortages post WW2. It was usual for women to wear a slip (under garment) edges would have been finished either by hand with whipping stich or with pinking shears.
Yes, a slip was like a lining that you could use with many dresses and skirts. The issue for me was that slips were being made of nylon and I don't think I'm the only one who hated them because of that. And, I wasn't smart enough to get some soft cotton/poly blend and make one!
Pinking shears for those of us to lazy to serge or just find serged edges horrendous.
Pinking shears are cheaper and easier to operate than a serger!
Nylon sucks big time, but the concept of having a "lining" you can wash separately from the dress itself is very clever. I'e gone back to wearing slips - I just don't buy them in nylon.
If you had enough money, silk was much better, but only available occasionally as it was used for parashoots
Re: Zipper instructions. You sow the seam closed, then baste in the zipper so that it stays straight under the seam when you sow it in and is held in place. This also keeps the seam allowance out of the way when sowing in the zipper. This process gives a way better result than just pinning the zipper to the open pieces of fabric. Then you rip out the seam on top of the zipper so that it’s possible to open and close.
You’re welcome for the unsolicited advice. 😊
I know I wasn't really the intended audience for this lovely bit of unsolicited advice, but THANK YOU! I've hated zippers with an unbridled vehemence for years, and this seams (lol) like a wonderful way to clear away the fear I have with zips.
@@daalelli I’m glad if it’s helpful! 🙂
Try getting a zipper that comes in its own package, open up the package carefully and follow the instructions inside. You will have a more-professional looking zipper.
Buy a bunch of thrifted zippers and practice putting in zippers on scraps of fabric until you’re confident with real clothes. Lots of videos online with are similar but even more easy than above directions. I now hand pick (couture method) all my zippers and absolutely love doing it. Loved your video and I’m interested in making this sweet dress.
This is how I learned to install zippers. Very easy.
Basting is done to stop the fabric from stretching as you sew it. Large curves such as neck and arms are baste stitched and straight edges along the bias are sometimes baste stitched. I only learned this a few months ago and went my whole life too lazy to baste anything lol. It makes a big difference for necklines though.
Right idea. Wrong terminology. It's called "stay stitching" and you'd use a normal stitch length for the fabric you're sewing rather than a basting stitch. It works well to keep fabric edges from fraying/stretching and keeps knit fabric edges from curling up.
Basting, in turn. is done to keep the pieces put in place better than with pins. It's not something I use time for in easy places, but it's faster in tricky places than ripping and redoing...
Basting is to hold two or more layers of fabric together so they don't shift during stitching; usually in curved or somewhat tricky seams like set-in sleeves that wouldn't be fun to have to take out and redo. It's usually a long running stitch that is removed after the pieces are sewn together. Stay stitching is done on a songle layer of fabric about 1/8 inch or 2mm into your seam allowance from your eventual stitching line. This helps the fabric keep its shape when adding addition pieces, such as stitching a banded collar into a curved neckline, or when two opposing seams are sewn together (a sleeve head into a shoulder seam). Hope this helps and happy sewing.
Also, you don't need "extra" seal allowance for French seams. In a 5/8ths standard seam, you would use 1/4in for the 1st seam, trim to 1/8th in. Then use 3/8ths in for the final seam. 1/4 = 2/8 + 3/8 = 5/8. No extra needed
I often use flat felled seams to prevent fraying with woven fabrics - especially for sturdy everyday clothes. I used seam tape to wrap the edges on a dupioni silk suit - most money I've ever spent on an outfit ever and worth the extra time/effort. My wedding dress was made from cotton damask - a heavier woven fabric with roses woven into the design. 8 meters x 60 in wide. It was a heavier fabric than recommended but it turned out great and was super comfortable and very pretty
"I like the dress more in theory..." 😂 Benn there before.
I feel so sorry for your struggles. My mom made me take home economics for 6 years so most of what you struggle with is already understood before I shop for fabric. (Thank you, mom!)
I so admire your tenacity and determination. And you are very entertaining.
Bias is a bit stretchy! And thus, no puckering necklines when used to finish them without having to make a seperate facing. And they forgot to tell you to press the bias into that bias tape shape where both long edges are pressed inwards. Bias tape makers for the folding is the best thing in my opinion.
Bias tape can be put as you did it, folded around the edge, or you can sew is rigth side to rigth side with the neckline and fold it all in to the inside like a facing. That is the one I prefer.
Additionally... There are two types of boas tape.
"Single fold" is (both of) the raw edges folded in. They count as one fold.
For folding it around the edge of the fabric - that's "double fold bias tape" One (set of) fold(s) to enclose the edges, and one in the middle.
If you're using pre-made bias tape, either CAN be used for either purpose (particularly if you're getting it clearance or thrift). You just need to be aware of which it is when you're considering if the width will be useful to you. The listed width, will be the "finished width". So if you're ironing the crease out, or in, to use it the opposite way, keep that in mind.
0:52 i keep a self-tabbed journal of everything i learn about my crafting… one for sewing, one for crocheting, and one for miscellaneous crafts lol and by journal, i mean great big binders lol i use card-stock in pretty pastels to make it extra special lol i also create cards for each of my fabrics and attach using archival tape (it doesn’t leave a sticky residue on the fabric unlike other tapes) in which i have all the specs of said fabric written on it such as weave-type, fiber content, whether or not the fabric color bleeds when washed, as well as any recommended laundering instructions… this way, if I’m using more than one fabric for a project, i can match fabric types for similar laundering compatibilities so nothing ever shrinks more than the rest of the item im making
The zipper installation method the pattern recommends is the one The Closet Historian uses most of the time, if anyone wants to see what's supposed to happen, she has a zipper video.
If you want a hidden zipper, dislike measuring seam allowances, or are using a "squidgy" fabric, this method - usually used where you have a back seam, and part of it has a zipper - is handy.
You mark the bottom of the zipper before sewing the back seam. Where the zipper goes is the longest possible stitch length, the rest, your usual stitch length.
Press your seam open. If the fabric takes a crease well, you now have a perfectly accurate lines for your zipper, that are consistant with the rest of your seam. And you can pin the zipper in, lined up perfectly under the based area, and simply sew a U, down one side, square along the bottom (I suggest doing this part by hand cranking to avoid breaking the needle), and back up the other side. Or, with squidgy fabrics. Back stitch, and start from the top again.
Then, you pick out the basting stitches.
This is the only way I’ve ever been able to put in a zipper, and I got it perfectly (well, a little wiggly but close enough for government work) on the first try! I cannot recommend it enough!
And this is what a lapped zip is
You can zig zag your edges or get an overlock foot for your sewing machine to finish your edges. You could also use pinking shears!
Oh my goodness I swear every time I got to the fabric store, I tell myself to get pinking shears... and every time, I completely forget! I'm writing it down this time, because that seems like the easiest first step to some fairly finished edges.
@@gettheetothestitchery if you haven't bought pinking shears yet, look in thrift shops. So many adult children, when Mom passes, have no idea what Mom's shears are for so they end up in thrift shops. The same goes for thousands of 50s-60s sewing tools, some that are no longer available or are made of sturdier materials than today's tools.
Pinked edges won't hold up in the laundry. I zig zag finish all my edges with a regular presser foot.
Yes. It takes a while and uses a lot of thread, but so necessary!
Once I did a similar video, just 3-4 different simple tops with different fabrics. I know a lot, just from so many years of sewing, but there is so much more to know. As home creators we are at a bit of a disadvantage because we don’t have an entire team to design and troubleshoot, just general fabric recommendations. Your pup certainly seems willing to help! 💕 My best advice which I never skip is to prewash everything, on warm , because so many times things in my life have ended up in the washing machine without pure intention. I then press every inch of the fabric, inspecting for any flaws. Now when working with polyester blends you can somewhat get by without pre washing, but my firmly held opinion is if the fabric does not wash nicely I would far prefer it before I have spent hours sewing .
Novice sewist and lazy laundress. 100% agree - I toss everything in the wash on normal cycle (because inevitably SOMEONE in our house is going to do the same). I'm buying remnants to get the feel of different materials. I'm getting into the habit of taking a picture of remnants with their labels (so I have their fabric content), remove the label, and toss everything I buy from fabric stores into the wash. If the fabric doesn't handle the wash, it goes into my muslin / mock up pile. I also do NOT buy dry-clean only fabric... except for one glorious iridescent partial yard of my favorite colors in silk. That is pegged to be a corset cover. 😂
I know the video is old but I still wanted to leave a comment. All of the dresses look good. If I may, I want to suggest trying lyocell. They make it in different weights but the one I have in mind is the one with a silky finish. It has a beautiful drape, feels smooth. It can be gathered a lot. I wanted to make a chemise dress out of it but still not there yet.
Modern sewing machines have an overlock stitch. You can also use a zigzag stitch or pinking shears to clean finish seams.
My grandmother always used pinking shears
Suggestion make a notebook of samples of fabric where you know what the fabric is, stretch or non stretch, and any notes you have after making it.
Being a retro model, it was normal to wear the dress with a camisole underneath. So you wouldn't need it to be lined.
I was thinking this too. I wonder though if a slip solves the second issue of fraying. Or was that the most popular fabric of the time didn't fray?
@@michellem.4358 i think plastic fabrics were all the rage, so it is possible
That is an excellent point!
The Closet Historian sews lapped zippers and does a good job of explaining them.
The facey fruit is adorable! My favorite
8:27 omg i love your little
Fur-baby lol
Vintage patterns didn't always have linings because like others have mentioned, fabric shortages.... but also.... women regularly wore undergarments and slips that would have protected the skin from the uncomfortable seams
What fun! Thank you for doing all this work! Here's a tip--when a woven fabric frays really easily or soon after cutting, you can sew a stay stitch all the way around the piece of fabric right after you cut it out. It's usually a tiny bit in from the edge of the fabric, 1/8th if you can manage it, but it will not show since your regular seam allowance will cover it. I'd love to see this pattern again with a four-way stretch knit for the bodice (no zipper) and a woven for the skirt (for maximum floofiness!)!!
This is a very flattering cut on you. All three of those dresses came out really nice and look absolutely adorable on you.
5:15 omg that fabric is super adorbs! I freaking LOVE florals lol
I love this comedy/sewing show😂
Consider using pinking shears on fabric that frays if you can’t use French seams or you don’t want the bulk of a French seam.
I think back in the day they were going for structured clothing and they had different undergarments, because they were still playing with adding to create a form to the clothing. Now a days, knit would be great for the pattern because fast fashion has taught us when clothes don't lay nice it's our bodies fault instead of it being the one size fits all the bodies in that range and undergarments issues.
If previous comments have already pointed this out so sorry. Without an Overlocker / Serger there are a number of ways to prevent fraying. Pinking shears cut a wavy edge on the raw fabric and it doesn't fray. you can sew flat seams, turn the raw edge under and stitch looks much neater you can also zig zag between the seam and the raw edge no fraying
Your dog is so cute ❤ He or she looks like she understands just as much, or little about sewing as I do.
Biais tape is cut like that to make it stretchy, I believe. And you have to fold it in half, iron, open up, fold the raw edges to the midline, iron. I think.
I know this is two years old, and you may never see my comment, but....A number of times in various videos, you've commented that you don't normally sew from patterns. Then I see you having trouble figuring out the construction of various parts of a garment. My mother sewed all her life (and still does some sewing now, even though she's in her late eighties), and she started teaching me to sew when I was six years old. I can make several types of garments without a pattern, but many years of learning *with* patterns taught me a LOT about what to do, and how to do it. Simplicity patterns are (or at least, used to be) really good for teaching those skills -- my mother preferred Simplicity for me when I was young, for that reason. I have the same philosophy about cooking. I can do a great many things without a recipe (including bread). But I *learned* by using the cookbook and recipes! Then I was able to start doing variations on a theme, and eventually to do complete recipes from scratch. I don't look at patterns as a constriction on my creativity, but as a guide to help me make sure I don't do things in the wrong order, or forget a step.
This reminded me of when I was very young and teaching myself to sew. I bought an easy pattern, used a dress weight wool, as instructed and made a half decent frock.
Then I decided to buy, for the summer, a cotton fabric, and make the same garment. Needless to say, the lack of ease and movement was a revaluation to my novice mind. I guess I had to learn about fabric qualities the experimental way.
This pattern has been sitting in my "to do" pile for ages, I'm so glad I get to see it on a person
you baste to either keep pieces in place (instead of relying completely on pins to hold pieces together or hold a zipper in place), put temporary stitches that you will pick out later, or to keep the neckline/armholes from stretching while you sew ( curved edges are cut both on the grain and bias and tend to stretch out of shape).
That was really interesting, and I can now strike off some of the fabrics I'd earmarked as possibles for a skirt but wasn't sure of. We don't have many fabric shops here any more so have to mostly buy online, and without being able to handle a fabric to see how it feels and drapes it's tricky to know what will work so seeing a finished article and hearing your comments about it is really useful. Oh, and I am totally in love with your dog.
Thank you. I am a beginner and confused beyond all. Even when buying fabric like cotton or so and yet get offered. Cotton twill, cotton poplin etc.
That is an incredibly flattering style. The bodice looks great on you, and the skirt is so cute and flowing.
I'm binging your content because yputube just fed it too me and now I'm addicted...
Ik you do not like "bias", and have been confused by on grain and cross grain... but you should do the same dress, same fabric, one on grain, one on bias.
Oo I love that idea!! That's my kinda experiment!
On bias would make the woven dresses fit so much better!
I don’t know if you read comments on old videos, but just in case you do, I’ll comment! On zippers: I think invisible zippers are much easier than traditional (lapped) zippers because you don’t have to do all the basting and lining up and dealing with pucker and all the rest. They are a bit intimidating to approach, and I’ve sewed the first side wrong more times than I can count, but I really prefer them. Tip for zippers - wait for a sale and buy a bunch of longish (12” maybe?) zippers in colors you use. Then say you have a need for an 8” zipper. No problem - whip some stitches from one side of the zipper to the other where you want it to end. Then cut off the part you don’t want and use something like Fray Check which keeps the cut part from unweaving itself. Voila - you don’t have to run out for a zipper every time you make something! On fraying seams, get high quality pinking shears since sergers intimidate you (I have one but still sometimes use pinking shears.) You can even use them with french seams - sew the first seam at about 1/4” and just graze the fabric with the pinking shears. Then sew the second seam as usual. I once had a very fray-prone fabric undo itself even with french seams, but when I did it over and pinked before the second seam, I had no problems at all. And basting - as others have said it can be used to hold layers together, like when you attach a gathered skirt to the bodice - you want to be sure you catch the skirt in the seam without folding down any of the gathered parts (or a fold of the skirt if you are as clumsy as me) so you baste, then I sew just on the inside of my basting and remove the basting afterwards. It is always the longest stitch and it is much easier to pull the threads out on one side than the other (I forget if it is the bobbin thread or the top thread that is easier to pull but I just tug to see which one slides more easily.) Stay stitching is often left in the garment since it is done inside the seam allowance. Having said all that, the truth is that I use invisible zippers for everything except fleece, I don’t baste even when I should, and I never do lapped zippers because they are a pain in the next. And unlike bias in the media (!), cutting on the bias means orienting diagonally. I hate cutting it and I hate folding it and ironing it so I either use commercial bias tape or I figure out other ways to avoid the need for it, like the lining you did or just folding the fabric under twice and top stitching. For all scissors, it is worth paying extra for the ones that have a spring to open them up for the next cut. Fiskar makes them but I think other people do too. I have pairs of that style in regular shears, pinking shears, and little thread clips that I use while I’m sewing. And as my 93 year old mom says, I consider pattern instructions, at best, to be a general suggestion and I tend to ignore huge swaths of them. Sometimes I regret it but usually I don’t. Oh - and like others, I keep a journal of everything I make. I cut little bits of the fabric and any trims and simply tape them in a spiral lined pad - fabric taped to the left page and the right page has the date, the pattern (or patterns as I often combine elements), a simple sketch, the size I used (I made a lot of my kids clothes so it was helpful to be able to look up what size I’d last used for a particular kind of garment; now I sew for my grandkids), the date, and then I write up what I learned and what I’d do differently next time. This saves you from having to learn the same lesson over and over, at least it does if you actually go back and read what you wrote!
7:55 AWWW YOU CUT THE PATTERN!!! 😮😮😮
Oh my! First time watching your video and only 4 minutes in, I totally get you and all the pattern mumbo-jumbo. I sew the same way. Half reading and then only when necessary . Ha! Most of the 4 minutes , I listened to you but watched your dog. He/she is such a beautiful Aussie . I love Aussies !! They are sooooo smart . I have a blue merle female and a black bi male. They both have ice blue eyes . Anyway, I'm going back to watch your video. I'm hooked. Ha Have fun, and I know you will with your awesome dog. I know I sound cuckoo, but I love Aussies !
I landed on your channel because I started pattern searching and sewing ideas. I think you’re so funny and that doggy is so adorable 😁
Greeting from Canada 🇨🇦
Vintage dolman sleeves were made with gussets under the arm specifically for more range.
That fruit fabric is so fun! Like something Ms Frizzle would wear ❤❤
That yellow dress is SENDING me - the fabric is totally stunning and I adore twill weave, but most of all you just look glorious in it! 😍
3:34 lol could be referring to a waist-stay which is just a sturdy ribbon attached to the inside of the garment that you snap or hook up before zipping up the dress lol
I've been wondering lately about more heavy/"wintery" fabrics for trousers/skirts/dresses, and if you need specific patterns for them or you can just slap them on any pattern you want
Shirts and blouses made in cotton lawn or poplin for summer can be made in flannel or sateen for winter. Short sleeves can be extended to the wrist, simple rectangles folded in half lengthways and overlapping around your wrist make cuffs. Remember to add seam allowances and hem the bottom 2-3" of the sleeve seam.
Poplin/chambray/linen for summer trousers can be replaced with corduroy/twill/suiting for winter. Wool mixes are warmer than cotton, especially when wet. Needlecord converts poplin shirts and dresses to winter too.
Edit TLDR heavy fabrics don't have the fluttery effect of lawn/voile but basic styles take both types of fabric for different seasons. Light fabrics fit more loosely so check seam allowance.
Pfft. My brain goes into overdrive sometimes. I hope this makes sense.
I've actually been wanting to do this for the longest time! Such a lovely video. If you are still looking for ideas, I found a vintage swimsuit pattern that says you can use knits, denim, and other fabrics that would make awful swimsuits. Like truly horrifying and I've been tempted to try to make one of each fabric type
Oo I love that idea! Particularly, I like thinking of someone actually wearing a denim swimsuit back in the day... doesn't seem comfy! Would be a super fun experiment though!
I actually had a cotton knit swimsuit in the 1970s. I loved it! So awesome to wear until it got wet...then they took forever to dry.
Omg!! My MIL got the fruit with faces to make pj bottoms for my kids! It’s one of my daughter’s favorites. 🥰
This is exactly the sort of experiment i need to do to remember fabric types, too!
I use woven fabrics for all my clothing - cotton, viscose, wool and linen - and I don't have a serger. I don't even have a sewing machine currently working so there's not even any zigzag along seam edges. Mum's old machine only did straight stitch and she made ALL my clothes growing up. They were ALL made from woven fabric and weren't lined. I don't remember any seams fraying despite frequent wearing and washing [seams were all 5/8'' seams on patterns in those days, don't know if they still are but this looks like a vintage pattern anyway.
If you have an issue with the fabric fraying then there might be an issue with your washing machine because seams were never finished traditionally and they have always lasted [unless using fragile fabrics such as chiffon, thin silk etc]. I just don't understand the worry on this - and in the time this pattern appears to emanate from slips/petticoats would have been worn underneath in any case.
Loved the comparison of fabrics, really informative. Loved the honesty
I think basting is mostly lining things up well, either with the longest stitch on the machine or by hand stitching. It then lays flatter when you're sewing than if you have it pinned on. Normally I just pin it and make sure to remove as I go 😂 the times I have bothered to baste, the seam in that area does turn out better, though....
18:44 i feel the same way about zippers lol would absolutely LOVE it if you would do a video about zippers, how you personally select and hand-stitch them in and such lol i always understand when you explain things compared to when others explain things
We used pinking shears to finish seams before sergers were a thing.
You have a really good dog.
Referring to the raw seam conversation around 15:40… I use bias tape indiscriminately to cover any inside raw edges that bother me. 😂 it perfectly encases them without too much more work involved.
I like the knit best and the neckline of it best. I like the twill second probably because I like that sort of cotton fabric. I zig-zag my seams so they won't fray and I topstitch the seams so they will lay flat all the time. It takes longer but the garment washes well and only frays a little with the first wash when I trim any threads away and it's great forever. If you tug gently on the fabric and it doesn't move you have the straight of grain. If it stretches just a little you have the crossway grain. If you tug diagonally it will stretch a lot and this is the bias. Generally, the garment is cut out with the top and bottom having the straight of grain going down the middle and the crossway grain across your body. I have done it the opposite way because that was the only way to fit the pieces on the fabric so while it isn't ideal it can work.
Great info, thank you for sharing!!
The way I remember which way is what is this - which way do I want the material to stretch? I want the torso from boobs to hips to stretch horizontally, so it gets cut on the grain. If it's a handkerchief herm, bias is a fun way to cut since crooked gems aren't an issue. Since all my pants seem to shrink, I don't mind cross-grain in an effort to KEEP them long. 😂😂
You don’t need extra seam allowance for French seams, if 5//8, sew one side 3/8 and the other 1/4
Please look up Gretchen Hirsch! She goes by Gertie. She has a few patterns with simplicity, and multiple books. I would love to see you make some of her vintage inspired dresses!
I adore her patterns! I'm always so inspired by her designs, so making one in multiple materials would be a great idea!
@@gettheetothestitchery please do!
I never see with knits... Just a preference. I line every bodice with Imperial Batiste. 60" wide. Or with leftover Liberty Tana lawn.
Oh such a cute idea ..I like them all gives you different looks and fit....the yellow is my favourite
I really feel you on the zipper. I've been sewing professionally for 35 years and still hate zippers
19:18 my favorite one of these is the one on the left lol so freaking pretty
Fun overall style dress, and overall pants
Pretty dress I have that pattern. Thanks for the heads up!
A lapped zipper is off a bit off center from the seam and it ends uo looking a little lika the front seam and ziper in jeans.
When does puppy and his human mummy fit in a walk ? also use a zigzag stitch on all the edges to prevent fraying
You can just use pinking shears or a pinking blade to keep the inside fabric from fraying. That is what they did a lot in the 50’s which is probably why they didn’t include that in the pattern as it was common then.
I love the blue banana one and I love your petticoat too.
Regarding crosswise grain: it goes ACROSS the fabric from salvage to salvage, the width of the fabric. Lengthwise grain goes the whole length of the fabric, 2 yards, 5 yards, 10 yards.. ok, now I'm doubting myself 🤪.
10:00 I think Rachel will give you your official Floor Troll certification. Good job with the by the seat of your pants choreography. :)
Women always wore a full slip under dresses in the old days, lining wasn't the norm.
You’re expressing my experiences with dress sewing and I love you!😜🙄♥️♥️♥️♥️
Delightful vlog and the dresses are super cute!
Thank you!! 😊
Such a good video!! Thank you for the tests, I would love to see other videos on the same concept y😊
Thank you! I'm looking forward to trying it again soon!
@@gettheetothestitchery I would like to see similar concepts in outfits for your dog
When sewing with a stretch fabric always go down a size or use a pattern made for stretch.
You should always wash and dry your fabric before you cut out the pieces as there could be some shrinkage.
Also, when done correctly, bias tape does not have a raw edge. Both the top and bottom edges are supposed to be folded to the center of the tape and iron it down this way.
If you HAVE pinking shears, you can pink the raw edges of your woven cottons so they don't fray. I don't own pinking shears myself because they are expensive.
I found this video interesting as well as entertaining. I haven’t thought much about comparison of fabrics in the past, being as I have not made a habit of repeating patterns.
I would be interested in seeing you do a similar video with trousers/palazzo pants.
Combined with your excellent video on 10 types of pleats/tucks you might be able to help us get the smooth fit we are after along with the right kind of movement in the legs. (If you follow what I am getting at) My one and only attempt at palazzo pants was too stiff (I used cotton) and made me look several sizes larger than I am.
You have accomplished a lot with these three dresses. I've been through this incomprehension with patterns and emerged, with practice and watching videos, with more understanding. I will say about French seams that it's 3/8" first, trim to half, then1/4". That should make it possible to figure it out for patterns that don't include it... Should.
this dress style with the patterns hella give elementary school teacher vibes lol
the yellow one is my favorite
the way to make bias tape most probably has something to with grainline. its BIAStape, so, to cut something so long on the bias of your fabric would be a little bit wastefull? i guess cutting it in a spiral gives you the diagonal without using up too much fabric? thats my guess
It's a solid guess, I'm pretty sure you're right! I didn't realize at the time that you have to cut the bias tape on a diagonal, so yeah, cutting out a long strip would definitely chew through a chunk of fabric!
Treasurie has a video on making bias tape from a reasonable six of fabric using the spiral method titled: How to Make Continuous Bias Tape (Bias Binding) if that helps anyone in the comments.
@@gettheetothestitcheryYou can also cut bias out of the larger scraps then stitch them together, simply by laying a clear ruler at a 45 degree angle and cutting. 😊
Also lucked out getting the damask fabric - it was half price when I went to purchase- $4/meter - lining fabric was double that.
I’m commenting when only half way through… oh how many times I shouted at my screen! Bias makes woven stretchy. If the fabric is too narrow, then piece it together matching the pattern exactly and then big pieces will fit.
Omg. My dog does the vacuum attack too, he's a mini Aussie
I have a mini Aussie too! She's a tri color.
I’m the future it would be cool to see the difficulty of working with the fabric itself is. Also, if the fabric is better for a certain season.
I suggest researching lapped zippers! They make zippers awesome!
18:02 you could totally ad a peplum made from a shortened version of a circle skirt and tun it into and adorable too to wear over a pair of jeggings lol btw, can you tell me what pattern your using, i really want one for myself lol
"Darkness = quitting time"
then there's me who has the sleeping habits of a vampire and gets far more done at night.
Oof I wish! I'm such a sunlight person... my partner and I once tried switching our schedule to being up all night and sleeping in the day time (during the pandemic when we had nothing else to do) and I couldn't go too long before I was dying for sun!
@@gettheetothestitchery I'm not a fan of the sun. It's bright, it burns my skin in NO time. Probably why winter dose not bother me. I don't care that the sun sets so soon.
That is a nice dress and it looks GREAT on.😊
Omg i love your dog! I have a tricolor mini Aussie ❤
They're the best doggos!
I've just found you... loving your content, I am in Dundee, Scotland and have been sewing around 5 years... dabbled in my youth but now committed.
Mywee suggestions with regards to your raw edges...try using some bias tape between your skirt and bodice, encasing your raw edges. Zips...i found basting in place first has helped me... looking forward to catching up with you..xx ❤
Link totally made me yawn just now ❤️❤️❤️ much love to you both from me and my lapcat Roy 😆
Pink the edges!
Crepe would have been swooshier. I used this pattern with some crepe from Joann. It turned out well.
I love this dress on you. All 3 versions