My new replacement Tinyhawk 2 AIO board worked find but the motors were spinning backwards. As I was trying to figure that out, it stopped powering on when I plugged a battery in. It only lit up if the USB was plugged in. If I then also plugged a battery in, it made the tones and I can spin the motors in the motors tab of Betaflight. Unplug the USE and leave the battery plugged in and it goes silent and dark. It's as if no battery is plugged in.
@@Painless360 I bet you're right. I've seen videos of people getting these tinyhawk boards and components were loose and falling off. My original one lasted less than a month. Maybe that was from my crashing, but I never crashed it hard. This one lasted 10 minutes.
Without more detail it's impossible to offer any advice. Happy to help but please watch ruclips.net/video/olIqTiSJHIY/видео.html and come back to me with more detail of what you've tried..
Painless, Forgive me if I am being difficult at understanding your video on this subject. I have a Omnibus f4 v5 and I got clean 5v power coming from my matek PDB and I am not getting any power to the FC. What am I doing wrong?
Yea the problem is I have a custom frame designed for this board, it's not a typical quad configuration so it'll be a pain to redo everything with a new FC, was hoping there was an easy fix. Thanks anyway
@@simonczarnota2212 sorry to sound so negative but it's disappointing to find out that some instructional videos not address every problem. In your case I'd search/ the internet for answers then if that doesn't work go ahead and change to another FC. Hit me at derrickmitchell39.dm@gmail.com and I'll help as much as possible, I know your frustration.
I'm playing with an old Omnibus F4 and I'd seem to have the opposite problem when I plug in USB alone I can't connect the beta flight but if I supply battery power then everything lights up and I can connect to beta flight. Now I'm supposed to be able to connect the beta flight without a battery, correct? And if that's the case what's going on here, thanks in advance for any help you can give me
I think that you saved me about 100 Pounds with your video =) I have few FC with built in PDB and I have similar problem. Eith your video I got the idea how to still use them. Good work, thank you!
Can you help with cc3d libre pilot issue...your videos helped me set up ...all works good while connected to computer. CC3d responds to radio and all arming and stick inputs, but once I unplug from computer and reboot everything it works until I try to arm when I go to arm then I loose all stick inputs, except flight mode switch I can flip from manual to attitude and it responds , but nothing else responds.
Painless360 RE-flash, go through set up again, RE-bind and check all solder joints. I checked last night and it worked fine. Armed and all so now I'm gonna have to check each individual wire but it should be only the five volt that feeds the receiver...this is strictly a test plane and test for me to better learn pids and set up, before I go over to f3 on my nano goblin. OK update. Well all worked fine today , beside when I flip switch to attitude mode the servos flutter , not uncontrollably but not nothing u want to fly...in manual mode you can put it about 100 feet or so up and it will just fly perfect. So all timing and cg good. What cause the flutter. Thanks for replying back
Sorry for the big comment.... would my issue be caused by a bad FC power regulator? First flight of the day... I plugged my lipo in... NO LED lights on FC, only 3 fast esc beeps. I unplugged/re plugged the lipo a couple more times when I noticed the red LED started to slowly come on from a dim red light to eventually full brightness, and then after several more unplug/re plugs of the lipo, pulling and shaking the quad...the red and green LED both came on as they should, with 3 fast esc beeps then 2 slower beeps, I was then able to arm and fly without further problems. Plugging other lipo's from this point on had no issues as well. -Board powers up normally by USB power every time though. I have checked and resoldered all connections..even my main bat wire s to the board and XT60. After I did this, board powered up by lipo off the bat....but after a day or so the issue returned. Could pluging my lipo in while its connected to USB power, cause a regulator burnout? Help pls. using a F4 board..clracingf4s...to be exact.
Painless360 Ok so this FC was a recent install. What could I have done to ruin the regulator..solder to hot? I keep it below 400c, but maybe contact time to long. Going to just install a replacement I have but want to keep this from happening again.
Painless360 Hey I have the same issue. Never flew my new quad. Everything was working great until I disarmed and tested the turtle mode I set up. Once I unplugged and plugged back in. Only 3 beeps and no power to the FC. I have the GEPRC SPAN AIO tower. Please help.
I have the same problem, but I am using an AIO F3 Brushed Controller. Any Chance I can fix this problem? When I am plugging in the battery, the power led is red and very faint, nothing else. With the USB Cable, everything works.
Slightly off topic question but I've broken a couple of the 5 to 6 pin connectors (jst?) on my vtx and was wondering a recommended a way to solve this issue. After a crash or from unplugging/plugging over the course of time, they become loose and cause signal loss. I tried to solder wires directly to the tiny pads where the pins connect to the vtx, but they are so small and close to each other, I couldn't keep the solder from bridging. It seems like this would be a common problem but I can't really find a solution. Wondering what experience you have with vtx connectors. Thanks
+casey cropp I've never had that problem, I'd suggest having a look at how your mounting and routing the cables. You need to make sure that the video transmitter is nice and solid, and that there is a little bit of slack in the cables so in the event of a crash there not ripped out of the connector. Best of luck
Hey, I was just wondering if you could help me out with a problem I’ve never had. I just purchased a new f3 femto flight controller for my flite test gremlin. The board worked perfectly fine I checked it on betaflight. When I plugged in the 2s lipo the board responded perfectly. When I went to do the motor calibration the X,Y,Z graph froze, and I couldn’t continue with the motor flash. So I disconnected the board and plugged it back in with the USB, the board did not respond, no LED sequence. The computer now says USB device not recognized, I tried 2 different USB cables and 2 different computers. It’s almost like the board isn’t being powered via USB. So I tried plugging in the 2s lipo, the board responded, but the red LED just continuously flashes. Any thoughts? Thanks for the help.
No, people are asking this question and (like me) have a 4in1 that supplies power.. Still no answer this has happened to me twice both with f4 omnibus fc
Sorry, I don't understand. Is that a question? If so, can you post a little more detail. See my build series for how I make models that work first time..
There should be three wires, two sets at both end. Still not sure what you're asking, but the best thing I can suggest is to have a look at the 'quadcopter building for beginners' series on the channel, I cover each of the individual steps. Hope that helps, best of luck!
my esc have bec's have it built in what do i have 4 x 20A 3-4s Lipo BLheli_S ESC still the board doe not have enough power the yellow like barely on and blue light nothing .. only when i use usb plug how do i fix it...
Very good explanation...Thanks... also, I am a little confused about one thing... If all ESC's have +5V BEC attached wire, and I only need one to power the FC, what do I do with the other 3 +5V leads? Do I remove them or will it not hurt if they are plugged into the FC?
Remove the power lead from all but one of the ESCs. I assume you're kickin' it old school (simonk) if you have escs with middle wires - or perhaps you have the ESC installed backwards? The motor output wires are almost always the same color anymore so it should be hard to confuse that. It is also not uncommon for newer boards to either have an onboard regulator (common if current sensing is on the FC) or as he stated, the PDB may have a regulator intended to run everything. If that is the case, do NOT connect any of the BEC power wires. (Just use an xacto knife to lift the lock on the tab and the connector should slide right out. Then, if you're REALLY sure you don't need them, cut them off and tape/seal the end of the cut off wire. (I would probably just electrical tape the connector to the cable until I was sure I wanted to remove it.
Guys I have 4 simonk ESCs....I bought them but I do not dear to put them on my quad, because I do not know which protocol to use for them. Is here anyone who knows whch protocol should I use? This simonk ESC are heavy, but they look like they have capacitators , which yould save some time with soldering fo slower copter or something.
+Robert L Erwin Jr see the other videos in the 'Introduction to Remote control ' series and the Quadcopter building for beginners series I link to for the answers.. Best of luck
Without more detail it's impossible to offer any advice. Happy to help but please watch ruclips.net/video/olIqTiSJHIY/видео.html and come back to me with more detail of what you've tried..
Hi Lee, while searching your videos for advice about my issue I found this one...it is kind of the opposite of my situation but will ask the question anyway...please disregard if it is too annoying. My FC (Mamba F405 MK2) gets a solid red light when connected to USB but doesn't get recognised on PC (other FC with same cable is ok). When I plug in the battery I get a greenish light too plus the solid red one. Can see picture on goggles but no OSD. Get telemetry on TX but no action on quad when I flip switches etc. Could this be beyond repair? I know they are cheap but was first trying to exhaust all possibilities. Diatone forum on FB were a bit useless...thank you for taking the time to read this. Cheers KiwiFPV
This seems to directly contradict advice I have seen elsewhere to CUT OFF the +5v leads ftom the ESC signal cables. There is surely only one correct answer to this?
The answer depends on the flight controller and the ESC that you're using and whether or not they have a linear or switched (or none) BEC inside. Please watch my other videos where I do builds where a cover it in a lot more depth. There is there is one easy answer, this was only answering one very specific problem..
My receiver and everything works right when I'm plugged into betaflight but as soon as I plug in the battery, in my receiver tab nothing is they have see everything lights up but my stick movements aren't moving at all and it won't arm or anyting unless I plug it back into betaflight I don't know if a faulty receiver would cause that or what, I'm about to go insane,
I'd check that the Rx remains powered when the battery is plugged in. If this is a model you've built then I'd recheck all of the cabling too. Try it with just the Rx connected fro example. Best of luck
Yes when it's plugged in the usb, I have movement in the receiver tab , when I plug in the battery ,the receiver is still bound and lit up green but I don't have movements in my sticks. If I unplug the battery, everything has movement in the receiver tab again, it's a crossfire micro V2. What started this is after I had everything set up the quadcopter would not arm. And after several hours I've traced it back to something with the receiver I don't know if it could be something else. Could a faulty receiver cause this... meaning that it is bound and lit up green hooked up to the USB and I have movement in my receiver tab until I plug in the battery, it still says lit up green and bound but no movement in receiver tab
just experienced no power to flight controller when plugging in or thru USB. I found I had a bad 3.3v and regulator... Now I have to learn how to replace such a tiny component
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
can i connect directly to negative and positive battery terminal and not using the spare positive and negative battery terminal ?
Not sure what you mean by spare terminals...
My new replacement Tinyhawk 2 AIO board worked find but the motors were spinning backwards. As I was trying to figure that out, it stopped powering on when I plugged a battery in. It only lit up if the USB was plugged in. If I then also plugged a battery in, it made the tones and I can spin the motors in the motors tab of Betaflight. Unplug the USE and leave the battery plugged in and it goes silent and dark. It's as if no battery is plugged in.
Sounds like the 5v regulator on the flight controller has failed...
@@Painless360 I bet you're right. I've seen videos of people getting these tinyhawk boards and components were loose and falling off. My original one lasted less than a month. Maybe that was from my crashing, but I never crashed it hard. This one lasted 10 minutes.
This just happened to me, but it was working earlier? , any ideas?
Without more detail it's impossible to offer any advice. Happy to help but please watch ruclips.net/video/olIqTiSJHIY/видео.html and come back to me with more detail of what you've tried..
I had a short now the board only works when i plug in usb not via the battery help!
Sounds like you have damaged it. The onboard regulator is probably damaged... best of luck
I have matek f405 CTR that turns on with USB but not lipo but the 5v pad shows voltage 5.05 to be exact
I have an F411 doing the exact same thing. No 5v on the rail with usb or lipo
Did you find an answer to your issue?
my esk is a 4 in 1 so where do I get that cables?
Painless,
Forgive me if I am being difficult at understanding your video on this subject. I have a Omnibus f4 v5 and I got clean 5v power coming from my matek PDB and I am not getting any power to the FC. What am I doing wrong?
Please see my 'Quadcopter building for beginners' series on the channel for how I build them. The PDB should provide power to the FC.,,
Having the same issue using a power supply on several boards, did you figure out what the problem was?
@@simonczarnota2212 yes, use a different FC and don't rely on videos like this to solve every issue you experience.
Yea the problem is I have a custom frame designed for this board, it's not a typical quad configuration so it'll be a pain to redo everything with a new FC, was hoping there was an easy fix. Thanks anyway
@@simonczarnota2212 sorry to sound so negative but it's disappointing to find out that some instructional videos not address every problem. In your case I'd search/ the internet for answers then if that doesn't work go ahead and change to another FC. Hit me at derrickmitchell39.dm@gmail.com and I'll help as much as possible, I know your frustration.
I'm playing with an old Omnibus F4 and I'd seem to have the opposite problem when I plug in USB alone I can't connect the beta flight but if I supply battery power then everything lights up and I can connect to beta flight. Now I'm supposed to be able to connect the beta flight without a battery, correct? And if that's the case what's going on here, thanks in advance for any help you can give me
I'd try another usb cable first...
Your Video is good looking, what camera you use for this Video?
Usually a Canon compact of some kind.. happy flying
I think that you saved me about 100 Pounds with your video =) I have few FC with built in PDB and I have similar problem. Eith your video I got the idea how to still use them. Good work, thank you!
Any chance of an eachine ev 100 review before the release date
Maybe ;) Leave it with me..
Painless360 yey
Hope before my birthday
Thanks for posting this informational video! Your channel is VERY comprehensive!
My rc receiver isn't powering on. It's a flysky ct6b
Could be a few things, what troubleshooting have you already done?
@@Painless360 checked the bettery, changed ESC , changed the motors etc. Rewired it nothing happens:(
Can you help with cc3d libre pilot issue...your videos helped me set up ...all works good while connected to computer. CC3d responds to radio and all arming and stick inputs, but once I unplug from computer and reboot everything it works until I try to arm when I go to arm then I loose all stick inputs, except flight mode switch I can flip from manual to attitude and it responds , but nothing else responds.
Does sound like a 5v power problem. What troubleshooting have you already tried?
Painless360 RE-flash, go through set up again, RE-bind and check all solder joints. I checked last night and it worked fine. Armed and all so now I'm gonna have to check each individual wire but it should be only the five volt that feeds the receiver...this is strictly a test plane and test for me to better learn pids and set up, before I go over to f3 on my nano goblin.
OK update. Well all worked fine today , beside when I flip switch to attitude mode the servos flutter , not uncontrollably but not nothing u want to fly...in manual mode you can put it about 100 feet or so up and it will just fly perfect. So all timing and cg good.
What cause the flutter.
Thanks for replying back
Hey buddy.can you please make a video on how to use qx7 on fpv freerider smartphone version..?
Sorry for the big comment.... would my issue be caused by a bad FC power regulator? First flight of the day... I plugged my lipo in... NO LED lights on FC, only 3 fast esc beeps. I unplugged/re plugged the lipo a couple more times when I noticed the red LED started to slowly come on from a dim red light to eventually full brightness, and then after several more unplug/re plugs of the lipo, pulling and shaking the quad...the red and green LED both came on as they should, with 3 fast esc beeps then 2 slower beeps, I was then able to arm and fly without further problems. Plugging other lipo's from this point on had no issues as well.
-Board powers up normally by USB power every time though. I have checked and resoldered all connections..even my main bat wire s to the board and XT60. After I did this, board powered up by lipo off the bat....but after a day or so the issue returned. Could pluging my lipo in while its connected to USB power, cause a regulator burnout? Help pls.
using a F4 board..clracingf4s...to be exact.
Sounds like a bad 5v regulator to me.. Best of luck!
Painless360 Ok so this FC was a recent install. What could I have done to ruin the regulator..solder to hot? I keep it below 400c, but maybe contact time to long. Going to just install a replacement I have but want to keep this from happening again.
Painless360 Hey I have the same issue. Never flew my new quad. Everything was working great until I disarmed and tested the turtle mode I set up. Once I unplugged and plugged back in. Only 3 beeps and no power to the FC. I have the GEPRC SPAN AIO tower. Please help.
I have the same problem, but I am using an AIO F3 Brushed Controller. Any Chance I can fix this problem? When I am plugging in the battery, the power led is red and very faint, nothing else. With the USB Cable, everything works.
If the board isn’t powered from an external 5v connection then maybe the onboard power regulator is bad..
Dustin H. Has the problem been solved? I have exactly same case as you.
Can 1 of the escs detect low voltage before the other 3 and cause quad to flipover and crash ?
Possibly. I've turn off any low voltage protection in the ESCs personally..
Slightly off topic question but I've broken a couple of the 5 to 6 pin connectors (jst?) on my vtx and was wondering a recommended a way to solve this issue. After a crash or from unplugging/plugging over the course of time, they become loose and cause signal loss. I tried to solder wires directly to the tiny pads where the pins connect to the vtx, but they are so small and close to each other, I couldn't keep the solder from bridging. It seems like this would be a common problem but I can't really find a solution. Wondering what experience you have with vtx connectors. Thanks
+casey cropp I've never had that problem, I'd suggest having a look at how your mounting and routing the cables. You need to make sure that the video transmitter is nice and solid, and that there is a little bit of slack in the cables so in the event of a crash there not ripped out of the connector. Best of luck
Hey, I was just wondering if you could help me out with a problem I’ve never had. I just purchased a new f3 femto flight controller for my flite test gremlin. The board worked perfectly fine I checked it on betaflight. When I plugged in the 2s lipo the board responded perfectly. When I went to do the motor calibration the X,Y,Z graph froze, and I couldn’t continue with the motor flash. So I disconnected the board and plugged it back in with the USB, the board did not respond, no LED sequence. The computer now says USB device not recognized, I tried 2 different USB cables and 2 different computers. It’s almost like the board isn’t being powered via USB. So I tried plugging in the 2s lipo, the board responded, but the red LED just continuously flashes. Any thoughts? Thanks for the help.
Not sure but sounds like a major power problem on the FC.. I'd contact the vendor for support as it sounds like a HW issue..
Painless360 thank you for the quick response, the order was placed from emax-USA so I’ll just contact them.
No, people are asking this question and (like me) have a 4in1 that supplies power.. Still no answer this has happened to me twice both with f4 omnibus fc
Sorry, I don't understand. Is that a question? If so, can you post a little more detail. See my build series for how I make models that work first time..
@@Painless360 i just got a Emax hawk5 that has a magnum f4 stack where do i get the 3 wires from on the esc?
There should be three wires, two sets at both end. Still not sure what you're asking, but the best thing I can suggest is to have a look at the 'quadcopter building for beginners' series on the channel, I cover each of the individual steps. Hope that helps, best of luck!
my esc have bec's have it built in what do i have 4 x 20A 3-4s Lipo BLheli_S ESC still the board doe not have enough power the yellow like barely on and blue light nothing .. only when i use usb plug how do i fix it...
Definitely sounds like a power problem, what troubleshooting have you already done?
Very good explanation...Thanks... also, I am a little confused about one thing... If all ESC's have +5V BEC attached wire, and I only need one to power the FC, what do I do with the other 3 +5V leads? Do I remove them or will it not hurt if they are plugged into the FC?
Remove the power lead from all but one of the ESCs. I assume you're kickin' it old school (simonk) if you have escs with middle wires - or perhaps you have the ESC installed backwards? The motor output wires are almost always the same color anymore so it should be hard to confuse that. It is also not uncommon for newer boards to either have an onboard regulator (common if current sensing is on the FC) or as he stated, the PDB may have a regulator intended to run everything. If that is the case, do NOT connect any of the BEC power wires. (Just use an xacto knife to lift the lock on the tab and the connector should slide right out. Then, if you're REALLY sure you don't need them, cut them off and tape/seal the end of the cut off wire. (I would probably just electrical tape the connector to the cable until I was sure I wanted to remove it.
SimonK, yep! Thanks, that's just the answer I was looking for.
Guys I have 4 simonk ESCs....I bought them but I do not dear to put them on my quad, because I do not know which protocol to use for them. Is here anyone who knows whch protocol should I use? This simonk ESC are heavy, but they look like they have capacitators , which yould save some time with soldering fo slower copter or something.
+Robert L Erwin Jr see the other videos in the 'Introduction to Remote control ' series and the Quadcopter building for beginners series I link to for the answers.. Best of luck
ok thx!
I have done all this and my fc will still not power. Don't know what to do.
Without more detail it's impossible to offer any advice. Happy to help but please watch ruclips.net/video/olIqTiSJHIY/видео.html and come back to me with more detail of what you've tried..
Hi Lee, while searching your videos for advice about my issue I found this one...it is kind of the opposite of my situation but will ask the question anyway...please disregard if it is too annoying. My FC (Mamba F405 MK2) gets a solid red light when connected to USB but doesn't get recognised on PC (other FC with same cable is ok). When I plug in the battery I get a greenish light too plus the solid red one. Can see picture on goggles but no OSD. Get telemetry on TX but no action on quad when I flip switches etc. Could this be beyond repair? I know they are cheap but was first trying to exhaust all possibilities. Diatone forum on FB were a bit useless...thank you for taking the time to read this. Cheers KiwiFPV
Sounds like one of the power regulators is bad on the flight controller. Best of luck
This seems to directly contradict advice I have seen elsewhere to CUT OFF the +5v leads ftom the ESC signal cables. There is surely only one correct answer to this?
The answer depends on the flight controller and the ESC that you're using and whether or not they have a linear or switched (or none) BEC inside. Please watch my other videos where I do builds where a cover it in a lot more depth. There is there is one easy answer, this was only answering one very specific problem..
My receiver and everything works right when I'm plugged into betaflight but as soon as I plug in the battery, in my receiver tab nothing is they have see everything lights up but my stick movements aren't moving at all and it won't arm or anyting unless I plug it back into betaflight I don't know if a faulty receiver would cause that or what, I'm about to go insane,
I'd check that the Rx remains powered when the battery is plugged in. If this is a model you've built then I'd recheck all of the cabling too. Try it with just the Rx connected fro example. Best of luck
Yes when it's plugged in the usb, I have movement in the receiver tab , when I plug in the battery ,the receiver is still bound and lit up green but I don't have movements in my sticks. If I unplug the battery, everything has movement in the receiver tab again, it's a crossfire micro V2. What started this is after I had everything set up the quadcopter would not arm. And after several hours I've traced it back to something with the receiver I don't know if it could be something else. Could a faulty receiver cause this... meaning that it is bound and lit up green hooked up to the USB and I have movement in my receiver tab until I plug in the battery, it still says lit up green and bound but no movement in receiver tab
just experienced no power to flight controller when plugging in or thru USB.
I found I had a bad 3.3v and regulator...
Now I have to learn how to replace such a tiny component