Used to race Midgets with the owner . Really enjoyed the series it would be good to have a review of what you learned and what kit you have used , what’s been useful what not so . 👍🏻
A couple of things. 1) MG's rust from the inside out. I believe you know this, but keep checking the interior sections when you see surface rust. 2) Keep a 5kg or 10kg "all types" fire extinguisher close at hand when welding. As you found out, stuff happens and in an enclosed space, knocking down a fire is critical. 3) You were lucky with the fire that the foam did not ignite. That is urethane foam and when it burns it produces cyanide gas. A good whiff of that and it could be serious lung damage or end of the RUclips series. Remove all urethane foam from any area where there will be high heat. 4) I heard you say it, but it is worth repeating. Slow down and think out all the steps and consequences prior to starting work. A good friend of mine who is an instrument tech/electrician always says "Slow is smooth and smooth is fast".
Morning fella, you are doing a fab job, little tip, when you find holed surfice rust, think of it like an ice burge, there is at least another 2 thirds below that you can not see, thinking like this gives you a clue of what is to come. Keep up the good work. 💪🤛😊
Making good progress now H. You dodged a bullet with that little fire. I was repairing the floor in a Mk1 Ford Escort van for my son years ago, oxy welding from beneath, sat up and looked into the left door. A big blaze started by mastic sound deadener was raging, luckily the cabin was stripped out so no great damage. Keep persisting it's looking great. Cheers.
Doors……… when I was young I was told all good restorations START with 2 good doors. Everything else fits around them. Saw an old film of the Detroit car factories once and as the cars came through the production line the doors were on and nothing else. They fitted the quarter panels to the doors .. perfect gaps!!! Usually you can get door skins for most classics these days. Far cheaper than a new door. I always repair the shell and put on a new skin. But good video though. it’s refreshing to see a “warts an all” video
Can I recommend Fitzee’s Fabrication and Carter Autobody Restyling as excellent sources of body repair techniques? What these guys don’t know isn’t worth knowing. Both Canadian and both very capable.
Repairing doors is always a problem, and its hard to make them look and fit well with all the welding distortion. It's far more cost-effective to get new ones from moss, i know they are expensive but it saves a lot of heartache in the long run.
Great video 👍 When cleaning off rusty and bubbly part's a good air wire wheel final clean and apply some kurust rust treatment when it dries rub down with scotchbrite and then apply primer etc😊
Thirty years ago our next-door neighbour hired a mobile mechanic/welder to do some welding on his car, which was in his garage. In the boot (unknown to the welder, but he didn't check before starting work) there was a container with two gallons of petrol. It was gas welding in those days, and it did not end well! The car, and the garage, went up in flames and our house (attached) got all the smoke! We were out of house and home for a month and it wasn't even our fire!
Hi, Harry close call with the small fire, we live and learn and not to rush. What's the blue magnetic light bar you've got and how good is it. Personally the the length of these two last vid's are a bit too long for me personally, about 45mins I think is long enough. That way you can bank some footage and get head keep up the great work Cheers rich1899v
It’s just an Amazon on. I wouldn’t really recommend it the battery isn’t great on it! And I will keep that in mind however funnily enough the longer videos tend to do better 🤷🏽♂️ cant please everyone I suppose 😂
Mgbgt prone to crack at top of door mine did , i filled with weld , removing bright work a pain , i see you didnt remove doors lol , good it took me 2 days they are a shyt to get off
The car could be running not 100 percent because of the plastic aersol lid fitted to the tank. The petrol cap has a breather hole and needs to vent. Keep up the good work mate.
I was going to ask you in my last comment if you'd set Fire to it yet. I've taken the interior out of mine and still managed to get a right-good blaze going.
@@HJRgarage scary ain't it! I only noticed because my helmet kept reacting when I wasn't Welding. I've got into the habit of waiting half hour after welding as a spark smoulders for a while.
@HJRgarage If you're welding gasless, you can take the shroud off, helps with accuracy. Doing a grand job matey. I chickened out and just reskinned the doors!
Great work mate its going to be a stunner when you finish it, have you tried taking the gas shield off your wielding gun as you are using gasless its not needed, love you dads car is it a V12 or a straight 6 ? shame I live in France and the import taxes after Brexit are crippling so no more importing UK cars. Looking forward to seeing it in its glory.
Great video. I want to get a mini belt sander like yours for getting into awkward places. How long do the belts last when sanding down welds? Does a belt do a lot of work or are you changing them all the time? Thanks.
@@HJRgaragefirst video I’ve watched and it’s looking good great work 👍 I’ve seen some good tips offered up too which is always nice rather than the usual slating of workmanship. I’ve never understood the desperation and pure fear in someone’s eyes when you say why would I need to disconnect the battery? I’ve welded at least 30+ cars in my time and most of them being something running an ECU and probably because I’ve never thought to connect my earth lead to the engine whilst welding a sill on floor patch I’ve never had any problems with “frying” the ECU ? I mean you know the power will take the path of least resistance ect and the ark and therefore the electric current is basically happening between the welding tip and the repair piece you are trying to weld so how does any kind of voltage end up going back to the ECU? Understandable if you earth to the wiring loom or as I said to the engine and the earth strap is bad but earthing to the body!!!! Nerrr you’re safe dude if not send me your ECU I’ll replace them.. 😂😂 Looking good buddy keep up the work and try and get yourself something to protect/comfort your knees as it’s always a killer kneeling on the floor for long periods, the foam squares is a good starter maybe another one or two for extra softening under knees lol😊
I couldn't really see in your video. Your doors are not suffering from the feared "crack of doom" near the mirrors? If not it might be worthwhile to add some support on the inside of the doors to prevent this from happening in the future.
@@HJRgarage Even if the doors don't have the crack it would be recommended to weld a piece of sheet metal in that area on the inside of the door. As you are going to repaint the doors anyway this would be the appropriate timing.
Can’t believe what a good job you are doing… DOORS…. Regardless of the difficulty removing the Doors and realignment, I’d still remove them… 10 times easier to work on. One Tip… buy a “Die Grinder”… with a 3” or 4” backing pad. Using that Belt Sander/File will leave a “Trough” that you won’t be able to see until you paint it… I guess Blocking the area would eliminate that. Enjoy your Videos Mate. Uh oh…. I just got to you welding in the Patch Panels in the Door…. I know it’s been commented on to use an Air Blower to cool the Welds but I don’t see you doing it. These are not criticism’s but just trying to help, I hope you know that. UPDATE… now you are kinda using the Air to cool, every spot weld needs to be Cooled once it’s applied to minimize warpage. Update…. That Gap that you created at bottom of the Passenger Door… just run a Bead of weld to build it up then File it to shape. 👍🏻
@@christopherjohnson6056 for small imperfections filler is fine. For anything bigger then the said dent should be pulled out. Most cars will have a skim of filler under the base coat.
Hammer and dolly will bring that door perfect no need for filler time is perfection
As a blacksmith welder ..worked at Dundee Harbour was asked ..and did ..on many occasions to weld rust buckets
Enjoyed this series, a lot of work has gone into this. There is a monty amount of prep to do before painting, just got to keep,pushing on
Very true! Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Great to hear FM get a mention, great blokes I’ve known them for over 30 yrs , they know their MG’s .
100% I have been going to them since I was 18 and had my first Midget!
Used to race Midgets with the owner . Really enjoyed the series it would be good to have a review of what you learned and what kit you have used , what’s been useful what not so . 👍🏻
@@MGracer87 I’m planning on that one 👍🏻
A couple of things. 1) MG's rust from the inside out. I believe you know this, but keep checking the interior sections when you see surface rust. 2) Keep a 5kg or 10kg "all types" fire extinguisher close at hand when welding. As you found out, stuff happens and in an enclosed space, knocking down a fire is critical. 3) You were lucky with the fire that the foam did not ignite. That is urethane foam and when it burns it produces cyanide gas. A good whiff of that and it could be serious lung damage or end of the RUclips series. Remove all urethane foam from any area where there will be high heat. 4) I heard you say it, but it is worth repeating. Slow down and think out all the steps and consequences prior to starting work. A good friend of mine who is an instrument tech/electrician always says "Slow is smooth and smooth is fast".
@@ronkluwe4875 yep 👍🏻 moment of stupidity!
good job 👍, lookin forward to the next phase…
Thanks 👍
The MG is going to look amazing, you are doing brilliant! I love the XJS too, you own great cars mate.
Thanks 👍🏻
Morning fella, you are doing a fab job, little tip, when you find holed surfice rust, think of it like an ice burge, there is at least another 2 thirds below that you can not see, thinking like this gives you a clue of what is to come. Keep up the good work. 💪🤛😊
@@paulhodgson1146 thanks Paul! 👍🏻
Making good progress now H. You dodged a bullet with that little fire. I was repairing the floor in a Mk1 Ford Escort van for my son years ago, oxy welding from beneath, sat up and looked into the left door. A big blaze started by mastic sound deadener was raging, luckily the cabin was stripped out so no great damage. Keep persisting it's looking great. Cheers.
Cheers mate 👍🏻
Great work! If you get pinholes in your welds, you can try reducing your wire feeding speed a bit.
Good tip!
When filling you should always take paint back to bare metal. Great work
Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Doors……… when I was young I was told all good restorations START with 2 good doors.
Everything else fits around them.
Saw an old film of the Detroit car factories once and as the cars came through the production line the doors were on and nothing else. They fitted the quarter panels to the doors .. perfect gaps!!!
Usually you can get door skins for most classics these days. Far cheaper than a new door. I always repair the shell and put on a new skin.
But good video though. it’s refreshing to see a “warts an all” video
Thanks! I try and be as realistic as possible!
Can I recommend Fitzee’s Fabrication and Carter Autobody Restyling as excellent sources of body repair techniques? What these guys don’t know isn’t worth knowing. Both Canadian and both very capable.
@@David_Walker16-3-51 good to know 👍🏻
Repairing doors is always a problem, and its hard to make them look and fit well with all the welding distortion. It's far more cost-effective to get new ones from moss, i know they are expensive but it saves a lot of heartache in the long run.
You’re potentially right. But if I can save money and learn something I will! Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Great video 👍 When cleaning off rusty and bubbly part's a good air wire wheel final clean and apply some kurust rust treatment when it dries rub down with scotchbrite and then apply primer etc😊
@@bigbird2100 good tips! Thanks for watching 👍🏻
@HJRgarage I make a comment then you use rust converter etc 🤣🤣🤣
@@bigbird2100 😉
See if you can do a collab with AC Dodd. He will sort your running issues out. The man’s a wizard when it comes to SU’s
I will look him up 👍🏻 although the b series might not be long for this earth 😂
@ oooh. Jaguar V6 time???
@@patadamson4005 I am looking at my options! 😂 1.8 mx5 or Jag v6 are the top contenders.
Thirty years ago our next-door neighbour hired a mobile mechanic/welder to do some welding on his car, which was in his garage. In the boot (unknown to the welder, but he didn't check before starting work) there was a container with two gallons of petrol. It was gas welding in those days, and it did not end well! The car, and the garage, went up in flames and our house (attached) got all the smoke! We were out of house and home for a month and it wasn't even our fire!
Oh dear! Sorry to hear that!
Good jobs well done!!....have a beer or two.
Thanks i did 😂
Kind of looks like the filler was the quickest way to save labour costs on the previous repair.
Yes I think you’re correct. Nothing wrong with a skim of filler but not to the extent of that door 😂
Hi, Harry close call with the small fire, we live and learn and not to rush. What's the blue magnetic light bar you've got and how good is it. Personally the the length of these two last vid's are a bit too long for me personally, about 45mins I think is long enough. That way you can bank some footage and get head keep up the great work
Cheers rich1899v
It’s just an Amazon on. I wouldn’t really recommend it the battery isn’t great on it! And I will keep that in mind however funnily enough the longer videos tend to do better 🤷🏽♂️ cant please everyone I suppose 😂
Mgbgt prone to crack at top of door mine did , i filled with weld , removing bright work a pain , i see you didnt remove doors lol , good it took me 2 days they are a shyt to get off
Yep! 😂 to be honest I’m glad I didn’t!
The car could be running not 100 percent because of the plastic aersol lid fitted to the tank. The petrol cap has a breather hole and needs to vent. Keep up the good work mate.
That’s an interesting point! Well observed sir!
I was going to ask you in my last comment if you'd set Fire to it yet. I've taken the interior out of mine and still managed to get a right-good blaze going.
I have a few times but only old paint this was the first proper fire you can’t see it properly on the clip but it was a big one 😂
@@HJRgarage scary ain't it! I only noticed because my helmet kept reacting when I wasn't Welding. I've got into the habit of waiting half hour after welding as a spark smoulders for a while.
@ very! 🤦♂️
@HJRgarage If you're welding gasless, you can take the shroud off, helps with accuracy.
Doing a grand job matey. I chickened out and just reskinned the doors!
Great work mate its going to be a stunner when you finish it, have you tried taking the gas shield off your wielding gun as you are using gasless its not needed, love you dads car is it a V12 or a straight 6 ? shame I live in France and the import taxes after Brexit are crippling so no more importing UK cars. Looking forward to seeing it in its glory.
@@roversteve53 it’s the V12 👍🏻 I love it I was born in 94 and he bought it in 94 so I have literally known it my whole life!
Use magnets to hold patches
@@davetee4626 I mix it up every now and then! Sometimes use magnets sometimes use will power 👍🏻
Great video. I want to get a mini belt sander like yours for getting into awkward places. How long do the belts last when sanding down welds? Does a belt do a lot of work or are you changing them all the time? Thanks.
Not long enough but it’s not terrible! It’s can probably file down 10 spot welds before needing to be replaced.
Whats those things leaning against the car port wall?
@@TheRumpledinkieVintageWorkshop the air suspension for my Jaguar XJR I changed them out for coilovers 👍🏻
Im assuming that you are disconnecting the battery whilst welding. Coming along nicely
Nope! I should be but I always forget! Doesn’t seem to have caused any issues 🤷🏽♂️ wouldn’t forget on a modern car would fry some electrics!
@@HJRgaragefirst video I’ve watched and it’s looking good great work 👍 I’ve seen some good tips offered up too which is always nice rather than the usual slating of workmanship.
I’ve never understood the desperation and pure fear in someone’s eyes when you say why would I need to disconnect the battery? I’ve welded at least 30+ cars in my time and most of them being something running an ECU and probably because I’ve never thought to connect my earth lead to the engine whilst welding a sill on floor patch I’ve never had any problems with “frying” the ECU ? I mean you know the power will take the path of least resistance ect and the ark and therefore the electric current is basically happening between the welding tip and the repair piece you are trying to weld so how does any kind of voltage end up going back to the ECU? Understandable if you earth to the wiring loom or as I said to the engine and the earth strap is bad but earthing to the body!!!! Nerrr you’re safe dude if not send me your ECU I’ll replace them.. 😂😂
Looking good buddy keep up the work and try and get yourself something to protect/comfort your knees as it’s always a killer kneeling on the floor for long periods, the foam squares is a good starter maybe another one or two for extra softening under knees lol😊
Yer I must admit my knees are suffering slightly now😂 thanks!
Some times they puy door skins on it
👏👏👍
I also need to replace the rear valance. Did you show this in a previous episode? I must have missed it.
I couldn't really see in your video. Your doors are not suffering from the feared "crack of doom" near the mirrors? If not it might be worthwhile to add some support on the inside of the doors to prevent this from happening in the future.
I wasn’t aware this was an issue! But I will have a look into it 👍🏻
@@HJRgarage Even if the doors don't have the crack it would be recommended to weld a piece of sheet metal in that area on the inside of the door. As you are going to repaint the doors anyway this would be the appropriate timing.
What make car cover are you using on the Jaguar ? Looks good quality .. also price and information on the car mate ?
@@paultubby6878 give me an email 👍🏻 henrymidget@gmail.com
Not sure on the cover my dads had it for years!
Can’t believe what a good job you are doing… DOORS…. Regardless of the difficulty removing the Doors and realignment, I’d still remove them… 10 times easier to work on. One Tip… buy a “Die Grinder”… with a 3” or 4” backing pad. Using that Belt Sander/File will leave a “Trough” that you won’t be able to see until you paint it… I guess Blocking the area would eliminate that. Enjoy your Videos Mate. Uh oh…. I just got to you welding in the Patch Panels in the Door…. I know it’s been commented on to use an Air Blower to cool the Welds but I don’t see you doing it. These are not criticism’s but just trying to help, I hope you know that. UPDATE… now you are kinda using the Air to cool, every spot weld needs to be Cooled once it’s applied to minimize warpage.
Update…. That Gap that you created at bottom of the Passenger Door… just run a Bead of weld to build it up then File it to shape. 👍🏻
Thanks! I do try and use the air as much as possible!
Sorry, I see that it is this episode! 😃
Enjoy ☺️
80 quid for a new door skin......
Hmmm....
Fail to prepare 🤦♂️
please subtitles !!!
@@rafarafa3094 I’m not sure how to do that! I think it’s normally an option on RUclips?
They are being processed and will be available soon!
@@HJRgarage I believe u live in UK and its harder to understand it :D
Im not native english speaking :D thanks
Was it worth it ..fkn junker fro. The start ..we all die ..
Please get out of the habit of saying all it needs is a skim of filler , or you’ll end up with a car full of filler again
@@christopherjohnson6056 for small imperfections filler is fine. For anything bigger then the said dent should be pulled out. Most cars will have a skim of filler under the base coat.