Super useful. Thanks for so much detailed recordings. I have a 1972 MGB GT that I got after my Dad died in 2016. Was overheating and discovered today the thermostat was broke. So have a new one on order, along with hoses and housing. Have flushed it through, waiting for the parts to finish off. This was a useful watch in the meantime. Thanks
I'd make sure to open the heater valve to make sure to get all the air out the system. Once you connect all your carburetor hoses and put the air cleaner back on the car will normally idle smoothly.
Very nice tutorial Dr. D. You are way ahead of me in my project, so another video goes in the "save folder" for later. Just yesterday I put the distributor back in and got the '73 MGB to start. Off with the carbs for their rebuild in the next couple of days. I really appreciate your methodical approach to doing these repairs!
You don’t need to say ‘Old MGB”. They are all old now. Last ones were made in late 1980. I purchased mine back in 1990 when they were not old. At that time there were plent😊y in the junk yards, so I was able to find an overdrive to replace my ‘73 B that did not originally have that option. It was a wonderful time to work on this car. I have owned mine since January of 1990 and still drive it on a regular basis and even shipped it to South Korea in 2003 when we moved here. Enjoy your B, they are wonderful cars!
ALL MGBs use fasteners with SAE measurements. Using metric tools is a good way to round off and ruin your bolts and nuts, especially when removing for the first time in 40 years. Nice work on the cooling system!
Great job! The only thing was that the heater element and lines were likely still full of old coolant. Or did you drain them and I didn't notice (also possible). Anyway, thanks for the great restoration series. It shows all the steps one must take (including having a proper place to do the work). Superb!
Can I quickly ask a follow up question? My 1972 MGB GT has a central fill on the radiator, not on the thermostat housing. When I have fitted the new thermostat etc and replaced the hoses, do I simply fill from the radiator, turn on, let it heat and wait for the thermostat to open which will then obviously fill the engine chamber with water. Or should I put the coolant mix into the engine directly before inserting the new thermostat, and then fill up the radiator? My point being I am worried that if the engine has no water in it after the last flush (or very little) I may damage it. In your case, it SEEMS your engine was empty of coolant mix. You then inserted the thermostat and housing, which seals the engine access. You then top up at the top of the housing, but I assume the water trickles down the hose to the radiator until full. So your engine, too, would have been empty of coolant until the radiator supply was fed in once thermostat opened. Or did you fill the engine with coolant prior to inserting the thermostat? Many thanks.
Hi! Good question, I think the best thing would be to quickly look up the best protocol for your type of MGB because I don’t want to give bad advice. For mine, I added coolant before putting in the thermostat, then I added more while I “burped” the lines by squeezing the air out of the upper radiator hose as I added coolant. I followed the protocol from an MGB manual I have. If I can find the protocol for your model in my book, I’ll definitely let you know!
Just a word of Caution,if your spray Painting your car,never use Silicone Spray in the surrounding area,it will atomize into the surrounding Area and give you Fish Eye in the Paint finish.
IME, there's no way to tighten a fan belt from that era, too tightly by hand. in fact, it's usually necessary to use some sort of leverage to tighten them adequately. better too loose than too tight. if it's too loose you'll soon be hearing it squeal on acceleration or when the alternator is charging or when the air conditioning compressor turns on, etc. i.e under load.... too bad they didn't explain WHY they wanted the heat/cold dial set to hot . it's because when that dial is set to hot (on a car of that era and design) there is usually a valve and rubber hose between the cooling system and the heater core. and valve is controlled by that cold/hot dial (usually by a cable at that time, now by an electric motor) that is opened. and if not open and the cooling system is filled to what appears to be capacity, ...well.... it won't be filled to capacity. such that the next time that dial is set to hot, the radiator may not work as well as expected. :)
Thanks so much for making this super-helpful video. I love the way that you problem-solve and are patient with everything.
Thank you!
Super useful. Thanks for so much detailed recordings. I have a 1972 MGB GT that I got after my Dad died in 2016. Was overheating and discovered today the thermostat was broke. So have a new one on order, along with hoses and housing. Have flushed it through, waiting for the parts to finish off. This was a useful watch in the meantime. Thanks
No problem at all, I’m glad I could help. :)
I'd make sure to open the heater valve to make sure to get all the air out the system. Once you connect all your carburetor hoses and put the air cleaner back on the car will normally idle smoothly.
These videos are extremely helpful, thanks for taking the time to make them
Great content! Calm, patient and well explained.
Keep up the great work!
Very nice tutorial Dr. D. You are way ahead of me in my project, so another video goes in the "save folder" for later. Just yesterday I put the distributor back in and got the '73 MGB to start. Off with the carbs for their rebuild in the next couple of days. I really appreciate your methodical approach to doing these repairs!
Outstanding work as always. Thanks
You don’t need to say ‘Old MGB”. They are all old now. Last ones were made in late 1980. I purchased mine back in 1990 when they were not old. At that time there were plent😊y in the junk yards, so I was able to find an overdrive to replace my ‘73 B that did not originally have that option. It was a wonderful time to work on this car. I have owned mine since January of 1990 and still drive it on a regular basis and even shipped it to South Korea in 2003 when we moved here. Enjoy your B, they are wonderful cars!
Very enjoy your work.
Many thanks!
The barf is not bad fluid... You are doing well
Thank you!
ALL MGBs use fasteners with SAE measurements. Using metric tools is a good way to round off and ruin your bolts and nuts, especially when removing for the first time in 40 years. Nice work on the cooling system!
Thank you for the tip!
Great job! The only thing was that the heater element and lines were likely still full of old coolant. Or did you drain them and I didn't notice (also possible). Anyway, thanks for the great restoration series. It shows all the steps one must take (including having a proper place to do the work). Superb!
Very nice job, link for the parts please
Always use anti seize compound :) great video
Can I quickly ask a follow up question? My 1972 MGB GT has a central fill on the radiator, not on the thermostat housing. When I have fitted the new thermostat etc and replaced the hoses, do I simply fill from the radiator, turn on, let it heat and wait for the thermostat to open which will then obviously fill the engine chamber with water. Or should I put the coolant mix into the engine directly before inserting the new thermostat, and then fill up the radiator? My point being I am worried that if the engine has no water in it after the last flush (or very little) I may damage it. In your case, it SEEMS your engine was empty of coolant mix. You then inserted the thermostat and housing, which seals the engine access. You then top up at the top of the housing, but I assume the water trickles down the hose to the radiator until full. So your engine, too, would have been empty of coolant until the radiator supply was fed in once thermostat opened. Or did you fill the engine with coolant prior to inserting the thermostat? Many thanks.
Hi! Good question, I think the best thing would be to quickly look up the best protocol for your type of MGB because I don’t want to give bad advice. For mine, I added coolant before putting in the thermostat, then I added more while I “burped” the lines by squeezing the air out of the upper radiator hose as I added coolant. I followed the protocol from an MGB manual I have. If I can find the protocol for your model in my book, I’ll definitely let you know!
Doesn’t air pump create vacuum that is necessary? The po disconnected it, but will car run properly without it?
Hi! Yes the PO removed the air pump and the car runs without it. You lose your emissions control, but not functionality.
Just a word of Caution,if your spray Painting your car,never use Silicone Spray in the surrounding area,it will atomize into the surrounding Area and give you Fish Eye in the Paint finish.
What cooing system was that. I need the same one.
My coolant hose under the car was stuck on the radiator and I had to cut it off. A pain
I would just drill a hole in old radiator and let drain.
Thank you for the kind words, I'm glad it helped!
IME, there's no way to tighten a fan belt from that era, too tightly by hand. in fact, it's usually necessary to use some sort of leverage to tighten them adequately. better too loose than too tight. if it's too loose you'll soon be hearing it squeal on acceleration or when the alternator is charging or when the air conditioning compressor turns on, etc. i.e under load....
too bad they didn't explain WHY they wanted the heat/cold dial set to hot . it's because when that dial is set to hot (on a car of that era and design) there is usually a valve and rubber hose between the cooling system and the heater core. and valve is controlled by that cold/hot dial (usually by a cable at that time, now by an electric motor) that is opened. and if not open and the cooling system is filled to what appears to be capacity, ...well.... it won't be filled to capacity. such that the next time that dial is set to hot, the radiator may not work as well as expected. :)
Great tip!