Very helpful! I just did my master and slave cylinders on my ford Ute after watching this video. I had a friend help my bleed it after. Feels amazing. I live in Australia, I spent $150 in total , and was quoted $1100 by the mechanic! Big savings 😮
Remember, always, I repeat “always” use a line wrench for brake and clutch line fittings where the line comes in with a nut (usually 10mm). Otherwise you will strip it almost every time. Pro tip, if you stripped it anyways, hit it with wd/pd and get a small set of vise grips lock them tight and you will succeed! Good luck! 👍🏻
You make the best z videos. I notice I keep watching them when I'm looking up how to do whatever project I'm about to start. Doing all 3 of these tomorrow when the line shows up
Thank you for taking the time and effort into putting a great video together for this specific purpose. I know it is a lot of work and is much appreciated. I am about to undertake the task of putting in a new slave, braided/heat shielded line and, as you say, master cylinder for preventative maintenance. My pedal has begun to stick half way in warm weather. I will also likely keep the old master cylinder and purchase a rebuild kit for the future use.
I found you page a few days ago and I just gotta say I love you they way you explain the process in depth is perfect for someone like me with no experience but what’s to learn
I gave up on the stainless steel clutch line. Was a pain in the butt removing the clip working on my back. Need to make friends with someone who has a lift. Just replaced the slave and called it a day.
I have TPs so probably way more room than if you're still on stock cats. I used vice grips on the lip...just enough room for them to hold...got a long flathead and large sized wrench(or something that shape/size). Used the vice grips and the body to pry on. Not hard just wiggle back and forth each side...longer the flathead the easier it is. But it's incredibly easy once you're down there and hook it up...I thought it was going to be a bitch. My car is on blocks...maybe 8" off ground. Just enough room to wriggle in there and room for the angle to use your arms well enough. On now to the csc delete kit...new flywheel and clutch...lots of fun can't wait to try everything out lol
Really enjoy the video especially when you called the dealership to get a price what it would cost if they did it versus you doing it yourself great job.
Heres the issue i had with this short version line; the oem hard line from the master actually needs to be replaced because it traps debris in a loop under the fender. just replacing with a short line will give you result but it wont clear the lines and give ultimate pressure to the slave. You definitly should consider getting a braided line from the master all the way to the slave, promise it will be worth it! I did a new slave and master with this short line and still had mush.
Nick Nunez that's interesting, I don't have any mush since I replaced the master, slave, line, and fluid. But that is something to look into, maybe ill do that when I buy a cd009 trans. Do they make a kit for this? If they do send the link to my Instagram if you have one @justdriftcharlie my profile is a picture of my face. There's a few fake profiles of me from some people that apparently have no life. Lol
that is interesting. I have an 01 frontier and am attempting to do this same thing. the bolt on my hard line is also stripped. and the nut connecting the slave cylinder to the clutch line is also stripped (that I have completely given up on loosening). so hopefully I get get the stripped bolt on the hardline to loosen.
Just a thought since you do videos and concerned why you get sooo many phone calls during videos turn airplane mode on ,or turn phone to silent,or off during video's?
I striped the flare nut.😤. I even used a Flare wrench with WD 40 when the first slipped happened. Now I have to buy a complete stainless steel line to replace the hard line/rubber line. Car guy problems.
Sorry for the super delayed response, damnnn, that hella sucks my dude. At least it's not a brake like from the abs all the way to the wheel lol. The clutch one isn't super hard to change
I think a lot of them were stripped by stupid mechanics. my hardline bolt to the clutch line was stripped in my 01 frontier just like in this video. the nut connecting the clutch line to the slave cylinder was also stripped. I want to put a blow torch on it to get it loose but I am afraid I will start a fire.
I know it's a old video but my z I drift is an 07 and once I get the car hot at an event and half way through the day my clutch pedal will stay on the floor. Does this mean my master is bad? The 07s have a csc and I ended up installing the zspeed csc elimination kit thinking the slave was bad. It needed the swap anyway but just wondering if the issue was my master from the start
Same thing happened to me at an event with my G. First I changed fluid to dot 4 from dot 3, higher temp range. Helped but still happened when it got hot. Ultimately replacing the master and slave as well as adding the s.s. Clutch line fixed it and made the clutch sooo much better!!! Good luck 🤙🏽
@@rollinthesweets6147 I actually got it fixed last year, I ended up changing out my csc and added a cmak csc delete kit, it is so much better and pretty easy to install
Have you thought of getting the Spec-D black housing headlights? I got a blue Z and they look a thousand times better than stock. I hate that orange reflector on the head lights.
How can I tell if it's a slave cylinder or master clutch cylinder is bad? We have a 2016 Jeep Renegade Sport and we recently had the clutch replaced but not the slave cylinder or master cylinder. The clutch goes to the floor, vehicle starts up, but the clutch does not come up or have any pressure. All the brake fluid leaked out.
Hi buddy. I am always interested to know How much nissan garage or whatever garage would charge for every tuto you make. Unbelievable for this one, almost 1k when you know its pretty easy 🥵. I guess they would charge 3-4k for a galley gasket right ??
The problem you mention at 14min, is there a way to fix this? I'm having that issue and adjusted the clevis but clutch pedal is returning and car is having issues going into gear. Great video, thanks!
Wowww, lol. I had to replace mine at 92k. You're lucky, these clutch's/master and slaves usually fail around 80-120k miles. I'd replace the clutch(if you haven't), the master, and slave. And I'd flush every type of fluid you have. Coolant, brake fluid, power steering, etc. It sounds like you've taken good care of your car though, because I have people all the time..... 99k miles ..... new clutch/master/slave/etc. lol
So I helped replace clutch/pressure plate on 04 350z. Clutch was ok but I think because it needed to be broken in as engagement was looked to be about 1/8" from release of pedal and gears were slightly tough to engage, especially reverse. So son wanted to bleed and he went and opened the bleeder before I got to do anything and clutch went to floor with no pressure and return. After pumping and bleeding no luck of buildup clutch pressure. Need day pressure was up on it's own. I thought maybe best to get new slave. He installed new slave and we just cannot seem to build up pressure, but were only able to get fluid to flow out and pedal still stays to the floor. I figure we're doing something wrong. Any advice?
Just subscribed! Great video but I have a question. If I use the SS Insulated Clutch line from Z1 Motorsports, do I still need to wrap it with a heat wrap?
I recently bought a 05 350z and today the clutch pedal has been sticking. Basically I can change gears but the pedal doesn't come all the way out. What could be the problem?
Do you by any chance remember the eBay seller you got your setup from? Was it from “zspeedperformance” by any chance for $175 shipped? Or was it someone else? I’m trying to purchase the exact setup you did. Also, I heard you mention something about Cali heat and I was wondering, you wouldn’t happen to be in the 916 by any chance would ya lol. Thanks in advance brother. Great channel for us z33 folk too. Keep at it man.
Yeah bro, I'm in the 916 lol. And here's the link of the seller I've bought some OEM parts from. Master and Slave www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2005-Nissan-350Z-Clutch-Master-Slave-Cylinder-OEM-NEW-Genuine/191343943509 Phase 2 SS line www.ebay.com/itm/P2M-Phase-2-Stainless-Steel-Braided-Clutch-Line-for-Nissan-350Z-Z33-03-06-VQ35DE/401595750553?fits=Model%3A350Z&hash=item5d80f8d899:g:dQsAAOSwLeVZ0mlq&frcectupt=true Thanks for the support bro! It's much appreciated!!
Typically, this job can take in between 1.5hrs-3+. Even me being experienced with these cars bleeding the system varies from car to car, even with a power bleeder. Thanks for the support bro, it's much appreciated! 💯💯
Hey Charlie I just recently tried to replace my oem clutch line to the SS clutch line and I looked up the car where the line meets the hardline and noticed the nut was rounded is there anything you recommend on how to fix it whether it be to replace the nut or the whole entire line ?? Any tip would be appreciated !
Damn bro, that sucks. You have to replace the line in between the master, down to the chassis mount. Check out our ebay store. I think we have some in stock.
Hey man, replaced my slave cylinder and replaced the line with the same line you have. I’ve been trying and trying to bleed it with my motive bleeder and it seems I can’t get all the air out. I’ve checked for leaks and nothing. The pedal will not build pressure and I don’t know why for the life of me. If you could spread some knowledge that would be amazing.
Thanks man! But honestly, I wrote the number on the bleeder hose, but the brake fluid took it right off. I needed a new O-ring not too long ago, and couldn't remember what adapter I used. But I believe it was the 0107, I think that was the number, but look it up. Because I don't remember exactly.
Thank you for this exceptional video…..just have a question, I recently put a new clutch on my 08 350z and when I shift to 4th gear it won’t take it. Do you think is the slave cylinder that needs replacement? If it’s do I need to take down the transmission to replace it? A newbe @ it.
If you want to respond to this message on IG @fullthrottleperformance916 or @justdriftcharlie it'll be a better way of getting a response. But what do you mean it won't take it? Like it won't go into 4th at all? Does it grind? Or does it feel like nothing is there?
Hello. I know this is an old video but don't you have to prime the master cylinder on the bench before you install it? I have a 2006 roadster and thinking of bleeding the clutch line.
*ya'll make it look so easy. i bleed my clutch fluid and fill and drain the air out and my clutch still not coming back up. i must be doing it wrong by just draining it into an empty bottle. gonna try to put brand new fluid in a bottle with the hose in it and see if that work in case if air gets back into the bleed valve, but i dont see how air can go back up when the pedal is press down and hold down when i open the valve then close it and repeat.*
The two man method is very difficult to get the clutch system bled on 350z's. I don't know why, most likely from the design of the lines, but honestly. I love using the Motive Power Bleeder. It makes the job so much easier, and quicker.
I've done this over 300 times now since this video was made, my daily life is working only with z's g's and q's. And with the clutch master, primarily the VQ35DE it isn't necessary to bench bleed. It's actually not necessary at all with any vq platforms as long as you use a power bleeder. But you don't even need a power bleeder, and it's recommended not to use a power bleeder with the hr or vhr when they have an internal slave cylinder. You probably think I'd have issues, but that assumption comes from a lack of experience on your part. Best of luck with your z or g, since you're watching this video probably means you've never actually done it before.
@@Turtlefarm read the factory service manual bro 🤣 and there's no petals in a car, there's petals on flowers. And I always "thinks" the right way lmao 🤣
I’m having a hard time changing gears on my 350Z. Like they change but I gotta like force it to change. This situation happen after taking off on 1st gear and try switching into 2nd gear. After that, I’ve been having to force it to change to gear. Sometimes it’s hard to shift to 3rd. Sometimes it’s hard to shift to 2nd. Etc. sometimes I get lucky and shifting it smooth but sometimes I gotta force it to shift gears. My question is, will changing my master cylinder, slave cylinder and clutch line fix my situation?
I had to go beyond the threads with my master cylinder..the opposite direction..im 2 threads backwards....the OEM one...wasnt getting afull stroke if i didnt move the fork....if i didnt do that i woudknt be sble to get the car in gear..so they r not sll the same ans the preset may not be right..it's still giving me problems...will shift good for a week and then won't go into gear..when i open the bleeder screw nothing comes out unless I pump the pedal ..makes no sense
Hey man so I replaced my slave & master cylinder today, there’s absolutely no pressure in the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder doesn’t even move because of the pressure so I can’t bleed it. If I crack open the bleeder valve I get no fluid draining from my. Any tips??
There's two different ways of pumping fluid into the system. You can try from the bottom, at the slave cylinder and try to pump fluid to the top, or the way I did in the video. Or you can use the two man method, which isn't impossible with the z and g, but it's a pain in the ass. All you do is one person in the car, one person on the ground with a bottle and tube attached to the bleeder valve. Simultaneously, press the pedal, then open the bleeder valve, close the valve, then lift the pedal. Repeat for the next 2 hours until you get a firm pedal.
MiddletoM Thanks man, and it's just the standard Samsung ringtone, lol. And if you do, do it on your z. Make sure you bleed the system really well, a lot of people skip out on doing a really good job at bleeding it, and it isn't worth skipping out after doing everything else
Ah lol, really does sound like angels and airwaves. Anyway, i will just cough up and buy the power bleeder. i suspect my brake fluid could do with being replaced so the power bleeder will come in very handy. ive used the 'one way valve on the bleed pipe' method and its a pain in the arse.
Thank you for the great video! One question, I hope you can help. When using the pressure bleeder, why was the clutch pedal pressed two times? Is it enough to bleed your clutch master cylinder? And how about brake master cylinder, does it also need to press the brake pedal twice?
Sergii Kvasnyi I re-bled everything again after I was done with this video. And I pressed it a few more times because there was still more air in the system. But in the video it worked great for like a day then I re-bled the system to make sure there was no air left. Personally, I would keep pushing the pedal until no air bubbles come up in your reservoir, after you've filled the system with fresh fluid. Hope that helps, and good luck.
I have an 06 350z revup experiencing clutch slippage, and eventually drooping clutch in heavy traffic. Approximately 3 weeks ago my clutch was strong and didn't have any issues. I just did a clutch flush and the bite feels new. Drove on the new motul for about a week and now my clutch is still slipping. Possibly does the slave affect this? Or my master is adjusted incorrectly? Please help.
@@fullthrottleperformance Since then, I've replaced both cylinders. Yes it is a worn clutch. The new cylinders shown how bad the clutch really was. Thanks again for your informative videos. I am purchasing a JWT performance kit from Z1 motorsports. Wish me luck!
@@shinrsc No problem my dude, I just replaced my clutch with the JWT lightweight flywheel clutch kit too. With the Z1 Lightweight crank pulley, they both make the car feel much more responsive
Hey! I'm doing my z and for some reason am not getting any pressure on the pedal. I checked the lines and nothing seems to be leaking. There is one thing that is odd, when I leave the pedal out and then bleed it it has pressure but doesn't throw the pedal back out. What do you think?
Help!! I can feel my clutch engagement start at 1/4 of my foot to the floor. Randomly recently my transmission is locking me out of all gears when i turn it on and grinding if i force it. at first i could mess with it and it would go into gear but now it will not, ive never had a single synchro grind when shifting accept for when i forced it when this problem started. It started with reverse now its all gears. Any thoughts? I ordered a new master cyl and slave. I have a stage 3 clutch w 31k on it never has slipped on me. Could it be simple as adjustment? Or slave? Pedal doesnt stick to the floor but grab point doesnt feel stiff like before i swapped my cd009 trans in. Any help much appreciated 🙏🏼 also it goes into gear perfectly fine when car is off so trans isnt locked or internally shifted
I installed new slave and master and this is what’s happening to me right now, also looks like the fork isn’t compressing the slave cylinder all the down, need help
Got a question regarding to brake bleeding. Some context: changed my brake lines to braided SS and bled them the two-man method. Although I can stop the car under hard braking, my brake pedal still feels a little soft even though it should be a stiffer than OEM. I did buy the motive power bleeder and bled the brakes hoping it would stiffen the pedal but its still soft. Any guess why it's still soft? Figured I'd ask on this video because the processes are similar. Much appreciated and great content!
Yep. Used tight fitting hoses into bottle with fluid in it so no air can get into it. I believe it was dot3 I used in the yellow bottles from autozone. I might have to try bleeding them in a different order. I did it according to the 2003 350z fsm but read on my350z on bleeding order
Good pads, ss lines, bled proper & still mush? my guess is caliper seals going bad. check for small leaks on pistons. if not your booster may have a leak... all bad
how do you recommend bleeding the slave if i dont have a lift. Theres air trapped in my system because i cant get under the car while its level so i put it on ramps. But it seems the the incline is trapping air somewhere in the slave and the air is unable to escape through the bleeder. Any advice? thanks!
Yes, but I haven't actually replaced anything because of it. I'd start with the cheapest parts first, and listen carefully to see exactly where it's coming from. And replace the cheaper parts first, that way you don't end up spending a lot, on stuff that doesn't need to be replaced
Hi,after driving for about 40 min my clutch pedal gets stucks what do you think bad clutch or sleeve and master cylinder needs to be changed? Car has 125.xxx miles all original,Thanks man great Vids
Yeah, one of them(master, or slave) is starting to go bad. Or you just need to bleed the system with a higher wet boiling point fluid. Like Motul RBF600, I honestly think that fluid is the best IMO. Maybe try changing the fluid/bleeding it, then if it doesn't work heres the link to a good deal on OEM Master, and slave cylinders. If you need them
Hey bubba, I got a question about a grinding noise after a new clutch install. Is it normal to have a rough sandpaper or cement mixer noise coming from my 6 speed transmission after a full clutch kit install? Never had that sound before on stock clutch and it's not a chatter sound, it's a sound like dragging a big rock over cement every time I push the gas peddle in every gear but does becomes less noticeable in 5th and 6th but is very loud and noticeable and annoying af in 1st, 2nd and 3rd evenr time I accelerate from a slow roll or dead stop, oh and theres no noise at all in neutral even if I rev the engine, on when I am in gear while accelerating. Thanks in advance
Can you tell me why sometimes its hard for me to put my shifter into gear, especially when i drive the hell out of it. Ill be driving my car normally than when i stop at a red light or stop sign i try to put my car in first gear and its like it wont go in that gear or any gear... i have to use all my might to force my shifter into gear...and btw i have a new transmission and clutch.
Yeah, common issue among z's. I'd check out the master, and make sure it's not leaking or anything. Then replace the slave and do a full bleed with Motul RBF600 DOT4 the stuff has a really high wet/dry boil temp so the pedal doesn't get mushy when under high temperatures.
I have a 2008 g37. 6MT. So when I change gears, I noticed that 9 times out of 10. It’s not silky smooth. I’ve heard of grinding and crunching gears but I’m not sure if this is what they refer to.It doesnt make any noise, it’s just I can feel it. Sometimes it does go into gears smoothly. I also noticed when I’m not moving, I’ll put the clutch in, put it Into gear, take it out of gear and put it back into the same gear and the second time it goes in smoothly. But not the first time. What do you think it could be?
Have you flushed the trans fluid? And you have a CSC, they tend to go bad easily. It might be starting to fail, and when you initially put it into gear it's not depressing the pressure plate enough to go in smoothly, but after you take it out the gears are perfectly aligned and making it go in smoother? I don't know, just a guess. But I'd start with the cheapest route by flushing the trans
Full Throttle yea I had the Tran fluid changed at my work. I used Infiniti oem fluid. I started reading some comments on Tj hunts video and they were saying that using anything other than mt-90 will fuck up the synchros. Do you think that might be it. The one from infiniti is 75w-85.
If you got the fluid from Infiniti you should be fine. I know CD008/9's take only GL-4 in the trans, and GL-5 in the diff. That might be what he's talking about, but then again I'd never go to TJ's channel for info on fluids. You can find all that in the factory service manual, just google your vehicle, and "factory service manual"
Is the heat wrap material necessary for the SS Clutch Line? My understanding was the stainless steel itself and the material was designed to withstand higher temps than that of the OEM clutch line?
Av8tor The way I thought about it was I might as well do it while having it apart. I just wanted to be 100% certain that the Cali heat, especially during stop and go traffic wouldn't be too hot for the fluid.
Can you tell me how do you fit the power bleeder adapter on the clutch master cylinder reservoir?I have been trying it but the two tabs on the side of the reservoir keep getting on the way.
It's kinda a b**ch to fit and hold on while under pressure. I usually use two zip ties to hold it down. But the two tabs go into the slots on the adaptor
Hey so i installed everything and the hardline that connects the master cylinder leaks every time I push the clutch pedal down. Is it not tight enough?
Yadi Cerda Spray it with some pb blaster or liquid wrench(penetrating oil), and let it sit for an hour then get back to it. That should make it a little easier, I didn't use it, I eventually got it. But I should use that stuff more often lol
Try getting a power bleeder, and bleeding the system. I've bled a lot of these and it always makes the clutch operation smoother. That's the cheapest route. Other items like the slave or master could also be an issue. But start at the cheapest item first
So my clutch pedal is doing the sticking thing but it works and I just replaced the slave and it’s still doing it so do you think I just need to bleed it more or a new master?
Full Throttle yeah I did the two man bleed thing but it still wouldn’t build pressure I’m pretty sure it’s the master I adjusted the pedal and it made a big difference and doesn’t stick but sometimes it does so I’m just gonna replace master like tomorrow or sometime
Please help! I have done the slave cylinder and the master cylinder and bled it exactly how you are and no more air is coming out. I have a decent amount of pressure on my pedal but the pedal does not return on it's own.
If you didn’t power bleed the system, would you have experienced the clutch pedal going directly to the floor immediately after replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders in a Z, due to air being in the system? I’ve replaced these components for other vehicles and the pedal would be spongy prior to bleeding but, it wouldn’t go straight to the floor.
Yes, z's are pretty difficult cars to bleed the clutch system. I've bled them before without the power bleeder(2 person bleed job) and it takes a lot longer to bleed. And the pedal will go straight to the floor.
Full Throttle: Thank you for your response. During the bleeding process, does the pedal eventually rise back to the usual maximum height, at the rest position?
Chanandler you'll need to pump it a few times, just make sure you bleed the hell out of it lol. And keep pushing the pedal a few times to get all of the air out of the master cylinder.
R Loney Link is in the description for the exact model and power bleeder I got. It's also a Ford model, 0107 adapter. It's actually 20 dollars cheaper than I paid like 4-5 months ago. Only 49 dollars right now.
Quick question, I’m currently replacing the clutch slave cylinder but no type of fluid is draining. I think something is clogged?! What could it be? If it’s the clutch master cylinder then I’ll be good
Full Throttle I don’t. But I just inspected something. The hose that goes from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder, it still had fluid in there. No type of fluid was going thru. I took of the master cylinder and I think it’s clogged or something. Once I took it off, a little bit of fluid was coming out
Full Throttle well I’m really hoping it’s the clutch master cylinder. Like I mentioned above, no fluid was going passed that cylinder. And I took it off after watching your video and I noticed some oil fluid came out. Expensive part but I hope that’s my issue
Hey I got a question my 350z clutch pedal has an inch of play on cold start after driving for 30 minutes it gets stiff and sometimes when you push in the clutch about an inch you hear a clicking noise do you have any idea what that could be
It may be the throw out bearing, but I can't be 100% sure without being there. Aamco does free diagnosis for transmission related issues. They may be able to pin point the issue, but they do sometimes mis-diagnose vehicles. So, just keep it in mind when they tell you the "issue". If you decide to go there.
Hey man, sorry for the bother again. I got a video of this clutch problem with my g35. Is there a way i can send you it to see if you have any clue what the grinding sound is coming from?
Okay, i just requested a follow on Instagram. I’ll send it as soon as you accept it i guess because it won’t let me send it right now since your account is private
Full Throttle thank u so much for replying.i can’t.im trying and trying and nothing.i tried cleaning it nothing.did u connect both lines before putting the clip?
Hey I got a question . My cluth pedal feels a bit sticky on hot days .. almost feels like I’m stepping on gum right at the engagement point . I’m thinking of pulling out the slave cylinder to grease it up u think that’s going to fix the problem ? Or am I better off buying a new slave cylinder all together ?!
Get a stainless steel braided line, and new slave. It'll be a lot better in the long run, you won't get that feeling, make sure you thoroughly check out the master cylinder. Because if it's leaking or bad you'll have to do the job over again. Slave cylinders are cheap, I'd just replace it. 👌
@@evanmavros1942 I would go to Napa, every time I've gotten a slave or master from Autozone they end up leaking. I'd personally recommend going to the dealer, because the slave isn't expensive
Full Throttle thanks for the help man ! I think I’m going to just bleed the line and grease up the slave cylinder tmr .. if anything looks worn out or broken I will run and grab one to exchange.
Hey man I have a question towards my g35 and I was wondering if you might know the problem. I’m having some disengagement issues. If I’m driving above 2k and I disengage the clutch it’ll take a second or two for the rpms to drop. So I can’t shift it or I’ll end up grinding due to that. Do you have any idea what it could be? I adjusted my clutch pedal and it did become better but i have no clue if I adjusted it enough? Do you have any idea what the problem could be? Btw I also got a brand new exedy clutch in the car too
Do you have any idea what it could be? Do you think maybe it doesn’t have the right and or a good amount of transmission fluid? I was thinking maybe I should try bleeding the system because before when the mechanic bled my clutch I had a half pedal of free play so maybe it couldn’t have been bled correctly? I’m just trying to think of some things
Josh Thomas try to bleed it yourself, and get some Nissan OEM fluid(get 4 quarts) of mtf. And maybe some motul rbf600 for the clutch bleeding. I had an 06 z before that didn't drop in rpms very fast but that didn't stop it from being put into gear
I can go into gear but I just have to wait until the rpms drop. The car doesn’t disengage right away when I push in the clutch that’s the problem. So I can’t shift at normal speed anymore. I have to wait two seconds or so after disengaging the clutch to put it into the next gear
Bros can you help me this is driving me crazy I have a pre hr model manufactured in early 07 and I'm in need of a new tranny but the tranny known as the jk400 is no longer made does the new JK41B tranny fit my car ?
So do you have the Rev-Up/Up-Rev 350Z? Non-HR, No dual intakes? If you do then Z1 Motorsports sells the CD009 Transmission for 1700-1800 new or somewhere around that number, or you can pick up a CD009 for in between 450-750 used. Because if you don't have the HR, then your car should have a CD009
Full Throttle Thanks for the quick reply man so I have an hr with double intake but I guess in early HRs pre 07 they had a specific tranny but I'm not sure if the ones they sell now would fit
Very helpful! I just did my master and slave cylinders on my ford Ute after watching this video. I had a friend help my bleed it after. Feels amazing. I live in Australia, I spent $150 in total , and was quoted $1100 by the mechanic! Big savings 😮
Hey mate I'm an apprentice mechanic and I learn a lot by watching your videos PLZ KEEP IT UP 👌👌
Michael Stewart Thanks for the support bro, much appreciated!
Remember, always, I repeat “always” use a line wrench for brake and clutch line fittings where the line comes in with a nut (usually 10mm). Otherwise you will strip it almost every time. Pro tip, if you stripped it anyways, hit it with wd/pd and get a small set of vise grips lock them tight and you will succeed! Good luck! 👍🏻
Hahaha, I've bought flare nut wrenches since I put this video out, too much headache before lol
Flare nut wrench
You make the best z videos. I notice I keep watching them when I'm looking up how to do whatever project I'm about to start. Doing all 3 of these tomorrow when the line shows up
Thank you for taking the time and effort into putting a great video together for this specific purpose. I know it is a lot of work and is much appreciated. I am about to undertake the task of putting in a new slave, braided/heat shielded line and, as you say, master cylinder for preventative maintenance. My pedal has begun to stick half way in warm weather. I will also likely keep the old master cylinder and purchase a rebuild kit for the future use.
Dude this is a really helpful video! I love the time, effort and the detail you went through for this video! Keep it up bro!! 👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks man, glad it helped you out!
I found you page a few days ago and I just gotta say I love you they way you explain the process in depth is perfect for someone like me with no experience but what’s to learn
In the need of doing this on my G.this is the video I’m gone use as guidance
I gave up on the stainless steel clutch line. Was a pain in the butt removing the clip working on my back. Need to make friends with someone who has a lift. Just replaced the slave and called it a day.
Ze26 Having a lift makes life a lot easier, lol.
I have TPs so probably way more room than if you're still on stock cats. I used vice grips on the lip...just enough room for them to hold...got a long flathead and large sized wrench(or something that shape/size). Used the vice grips and the body to pry on. Not hard just wiggle back and forth each side...longer the flathead the easier it is. But it's incredibly easy once you're down there and hook it up...I thought it was going to be a bitch. My car is on blocks...maybe 8" off ground. Just enough room to wriggle in there and room for the angle to use your arms well enough.
On now to the csc delete kit...new flywheel and clutch...lots of fun can't wait to try everything out lol
Just got both oem master and slave on ebay for $100 bucks including shipping. That dealership price is just outrageous. Cant wait to get started.
That's way too cheap for both..those ain't gonna last long
Subscribed! I'll be doing my slave cylinder soon, thank you for posting this
This was the vid I needed to see. Thank you! Going to swap out the clutch pedal also.
Thanks for the support man! Much appreciated, and glad I could help!
Thanks for the video! I appreciate you taking the time to video everything! I just picked up a 03 Z as a project car to work on!
You should install the rjm clutch pedal assembly next. You'll be amazed how much better the engagement is.
I've been thinking about it, but after I did this I literally can't come up with one complaint. It feels great, so far anyways, lol.
Full Throttle
The pedal is a great addition on top of the new master and slave cylinder. Trust me, you won't regret it.
Riley I'll look into it a little more, I have watched a lot of vids on them and everyone says it feels great, so I will give it a try sometime 👍
Really enjoy the video especially when you called the dealership to get a price what it would cost if they did it versus you doing it yourself great job.
Thank you sir for saving me hundreds of dollars on a simple replacement 🙌🏼
Thanks so much, now I hope I can do the same to my 06 g35 coupe 👍
Awesome video really helped me dude idk what I’d do without you lol 😂👌🏽
Thanks man!
Thanks man, I really appreciate you sharing this. Really helpful and a money saver for sure.
Heres the issue i had with this short version line; the oem hard line from the master actually needs to be replaced because it traps debris in a loop under the fender. just replacing with a short line will give you result but it wont clear the lines and give ultimate pressure to the slave. You definitly should consider getting a braided line from the master all the way to the slave, promise it will be worth it! I did a new slave and master with this short line and still had mush.
Nick Nunez that's interesting, I don't have any mush since I replaced the master, slave, line, and fluid. But that is something to look into, maybe ill do that when I buy a cd009 trans. Do they make a kit for this? If they do send the link to my Instagram if you have one @justdriftcharlie my profile is a picture of my face. There's a few fake profiles of me from some people that apparently have no life. Lol
DE350Z33 do you know where I can get a braided line like that been looking everywhere
I'm just doing this. Never seem anyone wrapping the reservoir tube before...even on the forums. Actually looking right now lol
Thanks for posting, will help me quite a bit!
Awesome man! Glad I could help you out 👌👌👍
Let me tell you... you saved me today, brotha! Thank you!
Awesome! Glad I could help you out!
that is interesting. I have an 01 frontier and am attempting to do this same thing. the bolt on my hard line is also stripped. and the nut connecting the slave cylinder to the clutch line is also stripped (that I have completely given up on loosening). so hopefully I get get the stripped bolt on the hardline to loosen.
New subs in da building 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Thanks for subbing bro! I appreciate it!
Just a thought since you do videos and concerned why you get sooo many phone calls during videos turn airplane mode on ,or turn phone to silent,or off during video's?
I striped the flare nut.😤. I even used a Flare wrench with WD 40 when the first slipped happened. Now I have to buy a complete stainless steel line to replace the hard line/rubber line.
Car guy problems.
Sorry for the super delayed response, damnnn, that hella sucks my dude. At least it's not a brake like from the abs all the way to the wheel lol. The clutch one isn't super hard to change
I think a lot of them were stripped by stupid mechanics. my hardline bolt to the clutch line was stripped in my 01 frontier just like in this video. the nut connecting the clutch line to the slave cylinder was also stripped. I want to put a blow torch on it to get it loose but I am afraid I will start a fire.
I know it's a old video but my z I drift is an 07 and once I get the car hot at an event and half way through the day my clutch pedal will stay on the floor. Does this mean my master is bad? The 07s have a csc and I ended up installing the zspeed csc elimination kit thinking the slave was bad. It needed the swap anyway but just wondering if the issue was my master from the start
Same thing happened to me at an event with my G. First I changed fluid to dot 4 from dot 3, higher temp range. Helped but still happened when it got hot. Ultimately replacing the master and slave as well as adding the s.s. Clutch line fixed it and made the clutch sooo much better!!! Good luck 🤙🏽
@@rollinthesweets6147 I actually got it fixed last year, I ended up changing out my csc and added a cmak csc delete kit, it is so much better and pretty easy to install
Have you thought of getting the Spec-D black housing headlights? I got a blue Z and they look a thousand times better than stock. I hate that orange reflector on the head lights.
I actually am running the 06-09 style head lights now
How can I tell if it's a slave cylinder or master clutch cylinder is bad? We have a 2016 Jeep Renegade Sport and we recently had the clutch replaced but not the slave cylinder or master cylinder. The clutch goes to the floor, vehicle starts up, but the clutch does not come up or have any pressure. All the brake fluid leaked out.
Hi buddy. I am always interested to know How much nissan garage or whatever garage would charge for every tuto you make. Unbelievable for this one, almost 1k when you know its pretty easy 🥵. I guess they would charge 3-4k for a galley gasket right ??
The problem you mention at 14min, is there a way to fix this? I'm having that issue and adjusted the clevis but clutch pedal is returning and car is having issues going into gear. Great video, thanks!
My 06 g35 clutch pedal does the same on a hot day are even driving for a long period of time
Have you ever replaced your master and slave?
Full Throttle never have, it has a 150000 miles now
Wowww, lol. I had to replace mine at 92k. You're lucky, these clutch's/master and slaves usually fail around 80-120k miles. I'd replace the clutch(if you haven't), the master, and slave. And I'd flush every type of fluid you have. Coolant, brake fluid, power steering, etc. It sounds like you've taken good care of your car though, because I have people all the time..... 99k miles ..... new clutch/master/slave/etc. lol
Full Throttle yes everything is still stock on it and thank you 🙏 so much for those awesome vids!!
Full Throttle nope never had been replaced
So I helped replace clutch/pressure plate on 04 350z. Clutch was ok but I think because it needed to be broken in as engagement was looked to be about 1/8" from release of pedal and gears were slightly tough to engage, especially reverse. So son wanted to bleed and he went and opened the bleeder before I got to do anything and clutch went to floor with no pressure and return. After pumping and bleeding no luck of buildup clutch pressure. Need day pressure was up on it's own. I thought maybe best to get new slave. He installed new slave and we just cannot seem to build up pressure, but were only able to get fluid to flow out and pedal still stays to the floor. I figure we're doing something wrong. Any advice?
Did you get everything situated correctly?
Just subscribed! Great video but I have a question. If I use the SS Insulated Clutch line from Z1 Motorsports, do I still need to wrap it with a heat wrap?
I'd say no. FWIW, I just bought a Sunsong one off rockauto.com that is already wrapped for $15 shipped.
I recently bought a 05 350z and today the clutch pedal has been sticking. Basically I can change gears but the pedal doesn't come all the way out. What could be the problem?
I'd try bleeding the system, if that doesn't work, your slave cylinder is the cheapest first replacement.
Wow people are thieves, I'm so glad you called the dealer. I can get the Slave and Master for $30 each.
Do you by any chance remember the eBay seller you got your setup from? Was it from “zspeedperformance” by any chance for $175 shipped? Or was it someone else?
I’m trying to purchase the exact setup you did. Also, I heard you mention something about Cali heat and I was wondering, you wouldn’t happen to be in the 916 by any chance would ya lol. Thanks in advance brother. Great channel for us z33 folk too. Keep at it man.
Yeah bro, I'm in the 916 lol. And here's the link of the seller I've bought some OEM parts from.
Master and Slave
www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2005-Nissan-350Z-Clutch-Master-Slave-Cylinder-OEM-NEW-Genuine/191343943509
Phase 2 SS line
www.ebay.com/itm/P2M-Phase-2-Stainless-Steel-Braided-Clutch-Line-for-Nissan-350Z-Z33-03-06-VQ35DE/401595750553?fits=Model%3A350Z&hash=item5d80f8d899:g:dQsAAOSwLeVZ0mlq&frcectupt=true
Thanks for the support bro! It's much appreciated!!
What length of labor time did you actually have on this project?
Your videos are always helpful and the call to compare cost was a great bonus!
Typically, this job can take in between 1.5hrs-3+. Even me being experienced with these cars bleeding the system varies from car to car, even with a power bleeder. Thanks for the support bro, it's much appreciated! 💯💯
Hey Charlie I just recently tried to replace my oem clutch line to the SS clutch line and I looked up the car where the line meets the hardline and noticed the nut was rounded is there anything you recommend on how to fix it whether it be to replace the nut or the whole entire line ?? Any tip would be appreciated !
Damn bro, that sucks. You have to replace the line in between the master, down to the chassis mount. Check out our ebay store. I think we have some in stock.
linktr.ee/FullThrottlePerformance?fbclid=PAZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAaZVxns-XqDSh6VCk8C8e1rVDEbxi1VRh-7Rraiq8YB-1rziyvZcST1gLo0_aem_AWVnE7HReA1aDN5C6G6LZtKTA42VmXvwP4OXE0ffqshfpwdNnCd6i3FLJwrAd617HvJ4Opw21TSSv7juD7X1kxOI
@@fullthrottleperformance Thanks Charlie I’ll be sure to check out your page 👍🏼
Hey man, replaced my slave cylinder and replaced the line with the same line you have. I’ve been trying and trying to bleed it with my motive bleeder and it seems I can’t get all the air out. I’ve checked for leaks and nothing. The pedal will not build pressure and I don’t know why for the life of me. If you could spread some knowledge that would be amazing.
Hit me up on IG, @justdriftcharlie
thanks for a great DIY, can you tell me what Motive bleeder adapter you used. thanks.
Thanks man! But honestly, I wrote the number on the bleeder hose, but the brake fluid took it right off. I needed a new O-ring not too long ago, and couldn't remember what adapter I used. But I believe it was the 0107, I think that was the number, but look it up. Because I don't remember exactly.
Thank you for this exceptional video…..just have a question, I recently put a new clutch on my 08 350z and when I shift to 4th gear it won’t take it. Do you think is the slave cylinder that needs replacement? If it’s do I need to take down the transmission to replace it? A newbe @ it.
If you want to respond to this message on IG @fullthrottleperformance916 or @justdriftcharlie it'll be a better way of getting a response. But what do you mean it won't take it? Like it won't go into 4th at all? Does it grind? Or does it feel like nothing is there?
@@fullthrottleperformance it won’t go into 4th and I just put a new clutch on
Thanks for reply
it doesn't grind it feel like nothing is there?
Hello. I know this is an old video but don't you have to prime the master cylinder on the bench before you install it? I have a 2006 roadster and thinking of bleeding the clutch line.
*ya'll make it look so easy. i bleed my clutch fluid and fill and drain the air out and my clutch still not coming back up. i must be doing it wrong by just draining it into an empty bottle. gonna try to put brand new fluid in a bottle with the hose in it and see if that work in case if air gets back into the bleed valve, but i dont see how air can go back up when the pedal is press down and hold down when i open the valve then close it and repeat.*
The two man method is very difficult to get the clutch system bled on 350z's. I don't know why, most likely from the design of the lines, but honestly. I love using the Motive Power Bleeder. It makes the job so much easier, and quicker.
Clutch has been sticking and looking to replace the slave next week, I was wondering what adapter you used for the power bleeder ??
Bet you’re having issues… you didn’t bench bleed the master.. you need the bleed them separate
I've done this over 300 times now since this video was made, my daily life is working only with z's g's and q's. And with the clutch master, primarily the VQ35DE it isn't necessary to bench bleed. It's actually not necessary at all with any vq platforms as long as you use a power bleeder. But you don't even need a power bleeder, and it's recommended not to use a power bleeder with the hr or vhr when they have an internal slave cylinder. You probably think I'd have issues, but that assumption comes from a lack of experience on your part. Best of luck with your z or g, since you're watching this video probably means you've never actually done it before.
@@fullthrottleperformance lmao.. sure bud. Enjoy your shit petal feel. I do thinks right the first time.
@@Turtlefarm read the factory service manual bro 🤣 and there's no petals in a car, there's petals on flowers. And I always "thinks" the right way lmao 🤣
I replaced and put everything back together, but my clutch pedal is stuck to the floor. Help ?
Just did my master and slave. And i have zero pressure. The pedal just falls. Please help..
Very nice video
I’m having a hard time changing gears on my 350Z. Like they change but I gotta like force it to change. This situation happen after taking off on 1st gear and try switching into 2nd gear. After that, I’ve been having to force it to change to gear. Sometimes it’s hard to shift to 3rd. Sometimes it’s hard to shift to 2nd. Etc. sometimes I get lucky and shifting it smooth but sometimes I gotta force it to shift gears. My question is, will changing my master cylinder, slave cylinder and clutch line fix my situation?
Could be many things, lack of pressure because of air in the lines, bad fluid, failing master or slave, short shifters or unweighted shift knob etc
Full Throttle I bought the master and slave and clutch line. Ima have those replace and hope it fixes my situation
I had to go beyond the threads with my master cylinder..the opposite direction..im 2 threads backwards....the OEM one...wasnt getting afull stroke if i didnt move the fork....if i didnt do that i woudknt be sble to get the car in gear..so they r not sll the same ans the preset may not be right..it's still giving me problems...will shift good for a week and then won't go into gear..when i open the bleeder screw nothing comes out unless I pump the pedal
..makes no sense
Hey man so I replaced my slave & master cylinder today, there’s absolutely no pressure in the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder doesn’t even move because of the pressure so I can’t bleed it. If I crack open the bleeder valve I get no fluid draining from my. Any tips??
There's two different ways of pumping fluid into the system. You can try from the bottom, at the slave cylinder and try to pump fluid to the top, or the way I did in the video. Or you can use the two man method, which isn't impossible with the z and g, but it's a pain in the ass. All you do is one person in the car, one person on the ground with a bottle and tube attached to the bleeder valve. Simultaneously, press the pedal, then open the bleeder valve, close the valve, then lift the pedal. Repeat for the next 2 hours until you get a firm pedal.
Good video! Really need to do this to my zed. What ringtone was that? Ava?
MiddletoM Thanks man, and it's just the standard Samsung ringtone, lol. And if you do, do it on your z. Make sure you bleed the system really well, a lot of people skip out on doing a really good job at bleeding it, and it isn't worth skipping out after doing everything else
Ah lol, really does sound like angels and airwaves.
Anyway, i will just cough up and buy the power bleeder. i suspect my brake fluid could do with being replaced so the power bleeder will come in very handy. ive used the 'one way valve on the bleed pipe' method and its a pain in the arse.
Im having a hard time getting in the pin thats like the hardest part lol
That's a difficult thing to get to, Sorry for the super delayed response
Thank you for the great video! One question, I hope you can help. When using the pressure bleeder, why was the clutch pedal pressed two times? Is it enough to bleed your clutch master cylinder? And how about brake master cylinder, does it also need to press the brake pedal twice?
Sergii Kvasnyi I re-bled everything again after I was done with this video. And I pressed it a few more times because there was still more air in the system. But in the video it worked great for like a day then I re-bled the system to make sure there was no air left. Personally, I would keep pushing the pedal until no air bubbles come up in your reservoir, after you've filled the system with fresh fluid. Hope that helps, and good luck.
Thank you very much for your advise and fast response.
I have an 06 350z revup experiencing clutch slippage, and eventually drooping clutch in heavy traffic. Approximately 3 weeks ago my clutch was strong and didn't have any issues.
I just did a clutch flush and the bite feels new. Drove on the new motul for about a week and now my clutch is still slipping. Possibly does the slave affect this? Or my master is adjusted incorrectly? Please help.
It just sounds like your clutch disc is worn down. Have you figured it out yet?
@@fullthrottleperformance Since then, I've replaced both cylinders. Yes it is a worn clutch. The new cylinders shown how bad the clutch really was. Thanks again for your informative videos. I am purchasing a JWT performance kit from Z1 motorsports. Wish me luck!
@@shinrsc No problem my dude, I just replaced my clutch with the JWT lightweight flywheel clutch kit too. With the Z1 Lightweight crank pulley, they both make the car feel much more responsive
Hey! I'm doing my z and for some reason am not getting any pressure on the pedal. I checked the lines and nothing seems to be leaking. There is one thing that is odd, when I leave the pedal out and then bleed it it has pressure but doesn't throw the pedal back out. What do you think?
Help!! I can feel my clutch engagement start at 1/4 of my foot to the floor. Randomly recently my transmission is locking me out of all gears when i turn it on and grinding if i force it. at first i could mess with it and it would go into gear but now it will not, ive never had a single synchro grind when shifting accept for when i forced it when this problem started. It started with reverse now its all gears. Any thoughts? I ordered a new master cyl and slave. I have a stage 3 clutch w 31k on it never has slipped on me. Could it be simple as adjustment? Or slave? Pedal doesnt stick to the floor but grab point doesnt feel stiff like before i swapped my cd009 trans in. Any help much appreciated 🙏🏼 also it goes into gear perfectly fine when car is off so trans isnt locked or internally shifted
I installed new slave and master and this is what’s happening to me right now, also looks like the fork isn’t compressing the slave cylinder all the down, need help
Got a question regarding to brake bleeding. Some context: changed my brake lines to braided SS and bled them the two-man method. Although I can stop the car under hard braking, my brake pedal still feels a little soft even though it should be a stiffer than OEM. I did buy the motive power bleeder and bled the brakes hoping it would stiffen the pedal but its still soft. Any guess why it's still soft? Figured I'd ask on this video because the processes are similar. Much appreciated and great content!
Did you use bottles with hoses on your bleeder valves to make sure air doesn't move back into your calipers? And what type of fluid did you use?
Yep. Used tight fitting hoses into bottle with fluid in it so no air can get into it. I believe it was dot3 I used in the yellow bottles from autozone. I might have to try bleeding them in a different order. I did it according to the 2003 350z fsm but read on my350z on bleeding order
Good pads, ss lines, bled proper & still mush? my guess is caliper seals going bad. check for small leaks on pistons. if not your booster may have a leak... all bad
Starting in 2007 with the G, the slave cylinder is Internal. On the Z, I think it was 2008.
Any z or g with a vq35hr or vq37vhr. And it's a csc (concentric slave cylinder)
I've got a VQ35DE 2007 G35.
how do you recommend bleeding the slave if i dont have a lift. Theres air trapped in my system because i cant get under the car while its level so i put it on ramps. But it seems the the incline is trapping air somewhere in the slave and the air is unable to escape through the bleeder. Any advice? thanks!
does that power bleeder you linked fit the master and brakes? thanks mate!
How did u put the cap of Master of bleeder to the reservoir cuz my is not working at all
You have to use some strong zip-ties lol
or is your cap for the power bleeder too big or small?
Sorry for the super delayed response
Have you encountered a squeaky clutch slave cylinder? My clutch squeaks when pressing it sound like the slave is going out
Yes, but I haven't actually replaced anything because of it. I'd start with the cheapest parts first, and listen carefully to see exactly where it's coming from. And replace the cheaper parts first, that way you don't end up spending a lot, on stuff that doesn't need to be replaced
Full Throttle yea ima do that! It’s weird it sounds like a Creak when pushing down and it feels stiff but it shifts super smooth 🙄
Weird, maybe replace the slave, if it's just a squeak maybe wait till it starts going bad then replace it. Idk lol
Hi,after driving for about 40 min my clutch pedal gets stucks what do you think bad clutch or sleeve and master cylinder needs to be changed? Car has 125.xxx miles all original,Thanks man great Vids
Yeah, one of them(master, or slave) is starting to go bad. Or you just need to bleed the system with a higher wet boiling point fluid. Like Motul RBF600, I honestly think that fluid is the best IMO. Maybe try changing the fluid/bleeding it, then if it doesn't work heres the link to a good deal on OEM Master, and slave cylinders. If you need them
www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2005-Nissan-350Z-Clutch-Master-Slave-Cylinder-OEM-NEW-Genuine/191343943509
I've bought from QuirkParts on ebay hella times lol
Thanks,yeah I check the fluid is very low....maybe just need a blend n a refill?
Yeah I'd just flush it too, and check all the sealing locations, like the master and slave to see if they're leaking
Can that cause the car not to go on gear when on but will go in gear is off ?? & feels like my clutch pedal is stuck 1/2 way in
Yes the clutch, slave cylinder, or master cylinder can all be issued that lead to that
Hey bubba, I got a question about a grinding noise after a new clutch install. Is it normal to have a rough sandpaper or cement mixer noise coming from my 6 speed transmission after a full clutch kit install? Never had that sound before on stock clutch and it's not a chatter sound, it's a sound like dragging a big rock over cement every time I push the gas peddle in every gear but does becomes less noticeable in 5th and 6th but is very loud and noticeable and annoying af in 1st, 2nd and 3rd evenr time I accelerate from a slow roll or dead stop, oh and theres no noise at all in neutral even if I rev the engine, on when I am in gear while accelerating. Thanks in advance
did you replace the flywheel as well?
Can you tell me why sometimes its hard for me to put my shifter into gear, especially when i drive the hell out of it. Ill be driving my car normally than when i stop at a red light or stop sign i try to put my car in first gear and its like it wont go in that gear or any gear... i have to use all my might to force my shifter into gear...and btw i have a new transmission and clutch.
Clit Commander Did you replace the master cylinder and slave cylinder?
Yeah, common issue among z's. I'd check out the master, and make sure it's not leaking or anything. Then replace the slave and do a full bleed with Motul RBF600 DOT4 the stuff has a really high wet/dry boil temp so the pedal doesn't get mushy when under high temperatures.
Full Throttle - My master isnt leaking, so should i replace my slave and pray?
Clit Commander I'd replace both, personally. But if you're trying to save money and time, just replace the slave and bleed it really well
What brand of Master and Slave Cylinder did you use??
I have a 2008 g37. 6MT. So when I change gears, I noticed that 9 times out of 10. It’s not silky smooth. I’ve heard of grinding and crunching gears but I’m not sure if this is what they refer to.It doesnt make any noise, it’s just I can feel it. Sometimes it does go into gears smoothly. I also noticed when I’m not moving, I’ll put the clutch in, put it Into gear, take it out of gear and put it back into the same gear and the second time it goes in smoothly. But not the first time. What do you think it could be?
Have you flushed the trans fluid? And you have a CSC, they tend to go bad easily. It might be starting to fail, and when you initially put it into gear it's not depressing the pressure plate enough to go in smoothly, but after you take it out the gears are perfectly aligned and making it go in smoother? I don't know, just a guess. But I'd start with the cheapest route by flushing the trans
Full Throttle yea I had the Tran fluid changed at my work. I used Infiniti oem fluid. I started reading some comments on Tj hunts video and they were saying that using anything other than mt-90 will fuck up the synchros. Do you think that might be it. The one from infiniti is 75w-85.
If you got the fluid from Infiniti you should be fine. I know CD008/9's take only GL-4 in the trans, and GL-5 in the diff. That might be what he's talking about, but then again I'd never go to TJ's channel for info on fluids. You can find all that in the factory service manual, just google your vehicle, and "factory service manual"
Guys do I have to bench bleed the slave ? I have a 2013 Honda Civic si
Is the heat wrap material necessary for the SS Clutch Line? My understanding was the stainless steel itself and the material was designed to withstand higher temps than that of the OEM clutch line?
Av8tor The way I thought about it was I might as well do it while having it apart. I just wanted to be 100% certain that the Cali heat, especially during stop and go traffic wouldn't be too hot for the fluid.
Can you tell me how do you fit the power bleeder adapter on the clutch master cylinder reservoir?I have been trying it but the two tabs on the side of the reservoir keep getting on the way.
It's kinda a b**ch to fit and hold on while under pressure. I usually use two zip ties to hold it down. But the two tabs go into the slots on the adaptor
Hey so i installed everything and the hardline that connects the master cylinder leaks every time I push the clutch pedal down. Is it not tight enough?
Hopefully it's not cross-threaded. Did you find the issue?
How did you get that bolt off that stripped ? I’m having that issue right now and need to fix it ASAP !!
Yadi Cerda Spray it with some pb blaster or liquid wrench(penetrating oil), and let it sit for an hour then get back to it. That should make it a little easier, I didn't use it, I eventually got it. But I should use that stuff more often lol
Why is the clutch line so short????
What do you think when the clutch let's go close to the wall? I tried clutch adjustments but still feels the same
Try getting a power bleeder, and bleeding the system. I've bled a lot of these and it always makes the clutch operation smoother. That's the cheapest route. Other items like the slave or master could also be an issue. But start at the cheapest item first
@@fullthrottleperformance bleeded and change just the clutch slave cylinder, and it fixed the problem
Awesome glad to hear you got it fixed!
So my clutch pedal is doing the sticking thing but it works and I just replaced the slave and it’s still doing it so do you think I just need to bleed it more or a new master?
You figure it out? It could be either, make sure you bleed it plenty, the two man method works good, but takes a decent amount of time
Full Throttle yeah I did the two man bleed thing but it still wouldn’t build pressure I’m pretty sure it’s the master I adjusted the pedal and it made a big difference and doesn’t stick but sometimes it does so I’m just gonna replace master like tomorrow or sometime
Full Throttle thanks
Yeah, sometimes you just have to replace both. Best of luck to you tho, hope you get it right
Full Throttle thanks, btw helpful video
Please help! I have done the slave cylinder and the master cylinder and bled it exactly how you are and no more air is coming out. I have a decent amount of pressure on my pedal but the pedal does not return on it's own.
Did you get it done?
I think it's my clutch pivot ball. Taking it to a shop today
Okay, post your update here after so I know, and other people can see
If you didn’t power bleed the system, would you have experienced the clutch pedal going directly to the floor immediately after replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders in a Z, due to air being in the system?
I’ve replaced these components for other vehicles and the pedal would be spongy prior to bleeding but, it wouldn’t go straight to the floor.
Yes, z's are pretty difficult cars to bleed the clutch system. I've bled them before without the power bleeder(2 person bleed job) and it takes a lot longer to bleed. And the pedal will go straight to the floor.
Full Throttle: Thank you for your response.
During the bleeding process, does the pedal eventually rise back to the usual maximum height, at the rest position?
Chanandler you'll need to pump it a few times, just make sure you bleed the hell out of it lol. And keep pushing the pedal a few times to get all of the air out of the master cylinder.
Full Throttle: Thank you for the info.
FT what Power Bleeder model are you using to bleed the clutch system? Also which attachments for clutch fluid reservoir? Thanks! -R
R Loney Link is in the description for the exact model and power bleeder I got. It's also a Ford model, 0107 adapter. It's actually 20 dollars cheaper than I paid like 4-5 months ago. Only 49 dollars right now.
Thanks!
I enjoyed
What adapter number is that on the power bleeder?
I believe it's 0107, but I'm not 100% certain. I bought it a while ago
Where did you get that power bleeder ?
Hey I'm actually about to do this, my question is does it matter if it's in gear or not
No
Quick question, I’m currently replacing the clutch slave cylinder but no type of fluid is draining. I think something is clogged?! What could it be? If it’s the clutch master cylinder then I’ll be good
Do you have a power bleeder?
Full Throttle I don’t. But I just inspected something. The hose that goes from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder, it still had fluid in there. No type of fluid was going thru. I took of the master cylinder and I think it’s clogged or something. Once I took it off, a little bit of fluid was coming out
@@felipegarcia2419 What was your initial issue?
Full Throttle well I’m really hoping it’s the clutch master cylinder. Like I mentioned above, no fluid was going passed that cylinder. And I took it off after watching your video and I noticed some oil fluid came out. Expensive part but I hope that’s my issue
So, you get it fixed? What it'd end up being?
How much psi did you pump it up to
I generally pump the motive power bleeder up to 15 PSI
@@fullthrottleperformance Did you bleed the clutch with the pedal to the floor or while it was up?
Thanx!
Will a 2007 350z have the same location for the slave cylinder?
No the 2007 has an internal slave cylinder, you have to drop the transmission
@@fullthrottleperformance I appreciate it bro, thank you
What short shifter do you recommend for the z/g?
The 2008 hr as there's internally slave (csc) in the bell housing pain in the arse
Is it the same process for HR to?
Hey I got a question my 350z clutch pedal has an inch of play on cold start after driving for 30 minutes it gets stiff and sometimes when you push in the clutch about an inch you hear a clicking noise do you have any idea what that could be
The clicking noise might come from the throw out bearing, have you tried bleeding the system?
@@fullthrottleperformance I haven't tried bleeding the system but when I do here the click it's coming from near the firewall on the drive side
It may be the throw out bearing, but I can't be 100% sure without being there. Aamco does free diagnosis for transmission related issues. They may be able to pin point the issue, but they do sometimes mis-diagnose vehicles. So, just keep it in mind when they tell you the "issue". If you decide to go there.
Hey man, sorry for the bother again. I got a video of this clutch problem with my g35. Is there a way i can send you it to see if you have any clue what the grinding sound is coming from?
Josh Thomas where does it sound like it's coming from? And you can send it to my Instagram @justdriftcharlie same pic as here on yt
Okay, i just requested a follow on Instagram. I’ll send it as soon as you accept it i guess because it won’t let me send it right now since your account is private
Why did you pump the clutch twice
Avinash Sahadeo To try to evacuate any air that might have gotten into the master cylinder
I need your help ASAP.is it mandatory to put the clip back on the stainless steel line???why is it so fucken hard to put it back on ...
I would definitely put it back on, just clean up the area real good, so there's no dirt, or debris. Should make it fairly easy to put on
Full Throttle thank u so much for replying.i can’t.im trying and trying and nothing.i tried cleaning it nothing.did u connect both lines before putting the clip?
Honestly I don't remember off hand. It's not shown in the video?
Hey I got a question . My cluth pedal feels a bit sticky on hot days .. almost feels like I’m stepping on gum right at the engagement point . I’m thinking of pulling out the slave cylinder to grease it up u think that’s going to fix the problem ? Or am I better off buying a new slave cylinder all together ?!
Get a stainless steel braided line, and new slave. It'll be a lot better in the long run, you won't get that feeling, make sure you thoroughly check out the master cylinder. Because if it's leaking or bad you'll have to do the job over again. Slave cylinders are cheap, I'd just replace it. 👌
Thanksnman! Any experience with slave cylinders from autozone ? Are they worth it ?
@@evanmavros1942 I would go to Napa, every time I've gotten a slave or master from Autozone they end up leaking. I'd personally recommend going to the dealer, because the slave isn't expensive
Full Throttle thanks for the help man ! I think I’m going to just bleed the line and grease up the slave cylinder tmr .. if anything looks worn out or broken I will run and grab one to exchange.
@@evanmavros1942 Sounds good man, good luck with your z👍👍👌
Hey man I have a question towards my g35 and I was wondering if you might know the problem. I’m having some disengagement issues. If I’m driving above 2k and I disengage the clutch it’ll take a second or two for the rpms to drop. So I can’t shift it or I’ll end up grinding due to that. Do you have any idea what it could be? I adjusted my clutch pedal and it did become better but i have no clue if I adjusted it enough? Do you have any idea what the problem could be? Btw I also got a brand new exedy clutch in the car too
Did you use a light-weight or single mass flywheel?
Single mass fly wheel
Do you have any idea what it could be? Do you think maybe it doesn’t have the right and or a good amount of transmission fluid? I was thinking maybe I should try bleeding the system because before when the mechanic bled my clutch I had a half pedal of free play so maybe it couldn’t have been bled correctly? I’m just trying to think of some things
Josh Thomas try to bleed it yourself, and get some Nissan OEM fluid(get 4 quarts) of mtf. And maybe some motul rbf600 for the clutch bleeding. I had an 06 z before that didn't drop in rpms very fast but that didn't stop it from being put into gear
I can go into gear but I just have to wait until the rpms drop. The car doesn’t disengage right away when I push in the clutch that’s the problem. So I can’t shift at normal speed anymore. I have to wait two seconds or so after disengaging the clutch to put it into the next gear
Bros can you help me this is driving me crazy I have a pre hr model manufactured in early 07 and I'm in need of a new tranny but the tranny known as the jk400 is no longer made does the new JK41B tranny fit my car ?
So do you have the Rev-Up/Up-Rev 350Z? Non-HR, No dual intakes? If you do then Z1 Motorsports sells the CD009 Transmission for 1700-1800 new or somewhere around that number, or you can pick up a CD009 for in between 450-750 used. Because if you don't have the HR, then your car should have a CD009
Full Throttle Thanks for the quick reply man so I have an hr with double intake but I guess in early HRs pre 07 they had a specific tranny but I'm not sure if the ones they sell now would fit
What's your exact production date? Because if you have an HR, then any HR trans should be fine, but I'll do a little research for you
Full Throttle It says it was manufactured in 01/07. Thanks alot man!
The trans number is FS6R31A
I snapped my hydraulic clutch hard line do you have one for sale?
I don't have any at the moment, dealer shouldn't be too expensive