I need to stain some wood but have zero experience other than paint. I was looking at this product as an easier way for me to get it done fast. I tend to struggle with brush marks so this applicator tip looks like it will save me. Thanks……That shade is really nice.
Thanks for the vid! I wanted to really see a non-promotional video to see what I might be able to realistically expect and you delivered! I was quite worried that the water based stain+poly might not look as rich as the oil-based, but your demonstration has assured me that I've got nothing to worry about :)
I needed the confidence and I was able to get it from you. I was able to stain it earlier and it dried now. It came out great all thanks to you. I did what you said but I used a sponge. Copied the idea from what you were saying. Thanks again.
Awesome so glad I was able to help you. I appreciate the kind feedback. It's a nice product and definitely something I plan to use on more projects whenever I get a chance to. So easy to work with. I might change up my methods of application to make a more consistent finish without it drying so quickly
Thanks for the video. I'm going to try your recommendations with the pad. I'm doing a staircase, and like the commenter mentioned below, it was blotchy and impossible to work with. It dries incredibly fast and does not allow feathering in. I tried every thing - the nylon bushes, foam brush, rag, and a pre-app with a roller finishing up with a brush (which actually worked the best). I think it would be easier to work with if I could thin it out. But the directions caution against doing that. What is your recommendation for thinning it out? Thanks once again!
I haven't tried thinning it, it's quite thin to begin with so could end up being too runny and produce a poor quality finish. It doesn't hurt to try, though. Hope it works out for you. Thanks for watching!
I finished an entire office unit using this product and had great success. It took some getting used to working with it, but once I knew how the product applied and how much time I had to work with it, then things became easier to manage. Pros and cons to keep in mind: Pros: Dries fast Durable finish Easy to apply Water clean up 1 hr recoat time Cons: Dries too fast( less working time) Uniform finish can be challenging Large surface areas hard to work with Despite the cons, this product takes some getting used to, so I suggest you practice enough on scrap pieces before doing your actual project. This way, you get a feel for how it works. Enjoy!!!
I brought the antique white for my floors and it came out so patchy, I hate it! The people at home depo gave me a roller and brush and filleting the middle left gaps where it met the cut in corners.
It's a tricky product to work with and doesn't brush well because it dries really fast. The second coat does help improve the appearance, especially the color. Thanks for watching!
The reason you can feel the grain is because its oak which is pretty much impossible to get it perfectly flat.. usually maple, alder, or birch is used when you want a smooth finish..
Great video. I’m doing a 7’ Burch butcher block. You think I need a pre coat? Also would you recommend doing it in sections? Looks like it dries extremely fast.
I haven't used this on butcher block before, so I can't speak to how it'll come out. I would say test the surface on a scrap piece or underneath that won't be seen before you do the real thing. They do make a pre stain, I believe, for this product. Thanks for watching!
It dries extremely fast, I recommend you don't use it on any wood with a lot of edges , like the 8 foot stair rail I did , It was impossible to keep a wet edge and the stuff got tacky before I could get 2 feet of coverage around 3 sides, going as fast as I could. I left the bottom to do later, because I knew it would be hard to do. You can do it using oil and a cotton piece because you can hold it in your hand while you turn it. I was going to use oil and poly like I always do, and get great results but the womans daughter told her about this stuff and she thought she would save 10 dollars, now I have to sand it all off and start over.
I'm not upset with the lady or her daughter or even the stain, I should have stuck with what I knew would work, and I knew that so it's my fault. It looks like it works on a flat surface great.
Sorry you didn't have good results. It's definitely a tricky product to work with and takes practice to get a feel for it. I'm not sure I would use it on large projects again myself because of the dry time, but smaller ones would be ok. Oil based stains, I think, are the way to go or even water-based but with no poly.
@@DRV_Woodworks Most people would probably be ok with the uneven tones etc. I am a pro so it didn't fly with me. I sanded the rail back down to raw and did the bottom. Then I masked off {blue painters tape } where the decorative part was on one side and put two medium coats on that. {I had a hard edge on each side, defining the round rail and the edge, so I could be meticulous with the masking.} Then I did the same on the other side . I nailed a 1 x 2 to each end of the bottom of the rail and nailed that to a 2 x on each end for stability and to get it up off the floor. Then I stradled the rail and put the stain on the top and then worked it along the sides . This was the only way I could work fast enough to not have the stain start drying while I applied it. I put 2 coats on like this, I waited about 2 hours on everything except the top and sides , I let that dry for about 4 hours. Probably overkill. I did not condition the wood , which was a mistake, I did get black stain in the grain , but after I sanded it , it lightened up and the brown covered it well enough , so most people would be happy with it . I see where this saves the DIY person time and maybe a little money, but if you want a quality job , this was harder than oil to get desired results for me. Now ,to the painters pad, sponge, piece of cotton, application. I don't know for sure what will happen, but the instructions call for a nylon poly bristle brush. I have to think there are reasons for that. For one , I would never use a sponge, they fall apart . A pad and cloth are probably ok, but is the stain thinner than the poly when mixed? Does one or the other ,stick to the cloth or pad more readily than the other. The problem being, if more poly stays in the cloth or pad than stain, the finish won't be protected , for that reason I am going to put a couple coats of clear poly on it If it behaves the opposite, you can just put another coat on until you like the look. Sorry for rambling , just thinking out loud, thats what old people do lol. Thanks for the video and answers.
I didn't use one, but I guess it depends on the type of wood that might require one as some woods take stain better than others. They do make it for this product. It's best to test it out on a scrap piece without it first and check the results.
No not necessary in my experience and I don't recall the directions saying to do so. However using a 400 to 600 grit light sand might make it even smoother but you would have to test it out and see I'm not sure.
Ive tried it as a wipe on before, it got gummy fast and could see the marks from where the cloth had hit the surface. I love this stain, but I would do it the way he is showing. I almost treat it like a paint, with the grain and with a brush and have had good results with that. I recently used the espresso color, very dark stain. I did one coat. Two coats would've hid the grain. Even though its a stain/poly I put a coat of poly over the one coat.
Bummer. I can definitely still see brush marks at the end. I clicked on this hoping there was some way to avoid those lines of contrast from the edge of the brush, but this guy just ignores them and says "as as you can see, no brush marks" even though I can clearly see them lol
Yours have been the easiest instructions I’ve seen after watching a few videos. Thanks
Thanks so much glad you found it helpful. It's a nice product to work with. Like and subscribe for future videos I plan to put out.
I need to stain some wood but have zero experience other than paint. I was looking at this product as an easier way for me to get it done fast. I tend to struggle with brush marks so this applicator tip looks like it will save me. Thanks……That shade is really nice.
Thanks for the vid! I wanted to really see a non-promotional video to see what I might be able to realistically expect and you delivered! I was quite worried that the water based stain+poly might not look as rich as the oil-based, but your demonstration has assured me that I've got nothing to worry about :)
Glad you enjoyed it🙂. Work fast with it cause it dries very fast. Overall finish it very nice and durable. Have fun!
Thank you for this video! Was super nervous to get started with this product on a used shelf I bought. Really appreciate the walk through and info!
Awesome, I'm glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
I needed the confidence and I was able to get it from you. I was able to stain it earlier and it dried now. It came out great all thanks to you. I did what you said but I used a sponge. Copied the idea from what you were saying. Thanks again.
Awesome so glad I was able to help you. I appreciate the kind feedback. It's a nice product and definitely something I plan to use on more projects whenever I get a chance to. So easy to work with. I might change up my methods of application to make a more consistent finish without it drying so quickly
The handy painter makes it look great!
Glad it worked out for you
Thanks for the video. I'm going to try your recommendations with the pad. I'm doing a staircase, and like the commenter mentioned below, it was blotchy and impossible to work with. It dries incredibly fast and does not allow feathering in. I tried every thing - the nylon bushes, foam brush, rag, and a pre-app with a roller finishing up with a brush (which actually worked the best). I think it would be easier to work with if I could thin it out. But the directions caution against doing that. What is your recommendation for thinning it out? Thanks once again!
I haven't tried thinning it, it's quite thin to begin with so could end up being too runny and produce a poor quality finish. It doesn't hurt to try, though. Hope it works out for you. Thanks for watching!
I had tried towel brush then it came out of ugly surface, now I know the best way is the one you showed , thanks for sharing.
Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching!
I finished an entire office unit using this product and had great success. It took some getting used to working with it, but once I knew how the product applied and how much time I had to work with it, then things became easier to manage. Pros and cons to keep in mind:
Pros:
Dries fast
Durable finish
Easy to apply
Water clean up
1 hr recoat time
Cons:
Dries too fast( less working time)
Uniform finish can be challenging
Large surface areas hard to work with
Despite the cons, this product takes some getting used to, so I suggest you practice enough on scrap pieces before doing your actual project. This way, you get a feel for how it works. Enjoy!!!
Thanks for this helpful video! Going to attempt this product tomorrow 😊
Great stuff. Well done. Very helpful.
You helped me a lot. Thank you.
I brought the antique white for my floors and it came out so patchy, I hate it! The people at home depo gave me a roller and brush and filleting the middle left gaps where it met the cut in corners.
I used the correct paint brush I believe but it is a dining room chair so it puddled a little I hope second coat makes it beautiful
It's a tricky product to work with and doesn't brush well because it dries really fast. The second coat does help improve the appearance, especially the color. Thanks for watching!
great training video
The reason you can feel the grain is because its oak which is pretty much impossible to get it perfectly flat.. usually maple, alder, or birch is used when you want a smooth finish..
THANKS!!!! GREAT TIPS!
Great video. I’m doing a 7’ Burch butcher block. You think I need a pre coat? Also would you recommend doing it in sections? Looks like it dries extremely fast.
I haven't used this on butcher block before, so I can't speak to how it'll come out. I would say test the surface on a scrap piece or underneath that won't be seen before you do the real thing. They do make a pre stain, I believe, for this product. Thanks for watching!
It dries very quickly, so move fast and feather it in you should be able to do an entire counter in one shot though
I keep my piece well protected
It dries extremely fast, I recommend you don't use it on any wood with a lot of edges , like the 8 foot stair rail I did , It was impossible to keep a wet edge and the stuff got tacky before I could get 2 feet of coverage around 3 sides, going as fast as I could. I left the bottom to do later, because I knew it would be hard to do. You can do it using oil and a cotton piece because you can hold it in your hand while you turn it. I was going to use oil and poly like I always do, and get great results but the womans daughter told her about this stuff and she thought she would save 10 dollars, now I have to sand it all off and start over.
I'm not upset with the lady or her daughter or even the stain, I should have stuck with what I knew would work, and I knew that so it's my fault. It looks like it works on a flat surface great.
Sorry you didn't have good results. It's definitely a tricky product to work with and takes practice to get a feel for it. I'm not sure I would use it on large projects again myself because of the dry time, but smaller ones would be ok. Oil based stains, I think, are the way to go or even water-based but with no poly.
@@DRV_Woodworks Most people would probably be ok with the uneven tones etc. I am a pro so it didn't fly with me. I sanded the rail back down to raw and did the bottom. Then I masked off {blue painters tape } where the decorative part was on one side and put two medium coats on that. {I had a hard edge on each side, defining the round rail and the edge, so I could be meticulous with the masking.} Then I did the same on the other side . I nailed a 1 x 2 to each end of the bottom of the rail and nailed that to a 2 x on each end for stability and to get it up off the floor. Then I stradled the rail and put the stain on the top and then worked it along the sides . This was the only way I could work fast enough to not have the stain start drying while I applied it. I put 2 coats on like this, I waited about 2 hours on everything except the top and sides , I let that dry for about 4 hours. Probably overkill. I did not condition the wood , which was a mistake, I did get black stain in the grain , but after I sanded it , it lightened up and the brown covered it well enough , so most people would be happy with it .
I see where this saves the DIY person time and maybe a little money, but if you want a quality job , this was harder than oil to get desired results for me. Now ,to the painters pad, sponge, piece of cotton, application. I don't know for sure what will happen, but the instructions call for a nylon poly bristle brush. I have to think there are reasons for that. For one , I would never use a sponge, they fall apart . A pad and cloth are probably ok, but is the stain thinner than the poly when mixed? Does one or the other ,stick to the cloth or pad more readily than the other. The problem being, if more poly stays in the cloth or pad than stain, the finish won't be protected , for that reason I am going to put a couple coats of clear poly on it If it behaves the opposite, you can just put another coat on until you like the look. Sorry for rambling , just thinking out loud, thats what old people do lol. Thanks for the video and answers.
Do you need prestain conditioner for pine with this?
I didn't use one, but I guess it depends on the type of wood that might require one as some woods take stain better than others. They do make it for this product. It's best to test it out on a scrap piece without it first and check the results.
I never heard to sand in between coats?
Manufacturers' instructions say to sand between coats. Trust me, it needs it
do they sell the handy painter thing by all the other paint brushes?
Yea thats where they should be at
How long between coats?
1 hour is the recommended time
Althought the directions say 1-hour minimum, I bet you could get by with a minute or less. (just kidding...kind of) This stuff dries fast - too fast.
What are you using to apply this?
Thanks
I mentioned it in the video. Handy painter Styrofoam brush pad. Found at homedepot paint section.
Do you do a final sand after the last coat?
No not necessary in my experience and I don't recall the directions saying to do so. However using a 400 to 600 grit light sand might make it even smoother but you would have to test it out and see I'm not sure.
Can you use this as a wipe on?
I haven't tried it, but I would test it out on a scrap piece before just to see how well it comes out.
Ive tried it as a wipe on before, it got gummy fast and could see the marks from where the cloth had hit the surface. I love this stain, but I would do it the way he is showing. I almost treat it like a paint, with the grain and with a brush and have had good results with that. I recently used the espresso color, very dark stain. I did one coat. Two coats would've hid the grain. Even though its a stain/poly I put a coat of poly over the one coat.
Excelente 👍👏🏼
Obrigado😊
Bummer. I can definitely still see brush marks at the end. I clicked on this hoping there was some way to avoid those lines of contrast from the edge of the brush, but this guy just ignores them and says "as as you can see, no brush marks" even though I can clearly see them lol
This product doesn’t penetrate the wood. Definitely wouldn’t recommend brushing this.
How would you recommend doing it