Upgrading The Sieg X2D Mini Mill - Air Spring Install Guide
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- So the torsion spring that holds the head on the Sieg X2D sucks. It doesn't hold the head in position and can make feeding the Z-Axis very jumpy when milling. It also limits the travel of the head! At such a low price.... this upgrade to the air spring system from little machine shop is a no brainier... Took me about 3 hours working slow and filming the process.
⭐Little Machine Shop Air Spring Kit - littlemachines...
⭐Little Machine Shop Mill (Best… due to included add-ons and rigid column) - littlemachines...
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**Correction!!** - 1:49 - Item Number is 2258... **Note** the bushing is an artifact of an older design and not necessary for this kit.
Confirmed I did not use it either
That piece left over was a direct swap for the top stop that you sanded down.
Began my upgrade for my Grizzly 8689 today. You got me motivated to do it. Retired now and I got the time. A very well made video, with super instruction. I notice that LMS use this video on their web site for installation instruction. LMS still sends you that 'extra piece that's not need for anything. LOL!
lol, made me uncomfortable for sure! Cheers larry
That's a sweet little upgrade. Great video too 👍
Thank you sir! Much appreciated. Little Machine shop has some sweet add-ons.... I wish I would of started with their mill! The fixed column would really be nice.
I find that appropriately sized bushings can sometimes work well as tap guides.
Many thanks for the video too, been looking at mini mills and this was extremely informative 👍
Excellent thank you sir! Glad you got something out of this!
Red Beard; the next best thing you can do is install the V BELT conversion as well & eliminate the plastic gears inside the the top of the power head. I ordered my KLUTCH labelled X2D from Northern Tool before the "Kung Flu" hit & since then, the price for the same mill has jumped to almost 1,000.00. Harbor Freight's price is still under 800 bucks yet. I had a customer come into work one day asking if we carried the plastic gears to the Sieg X2D. I knew we didn't; I showed him the L.M.S. website on my phone & wrote it down for him & suggested he could get the belt drive & eliminate the plastic gears. I work at a family owned hardware store.
I did! - ruclips.net/video/wOQ1QXdvO4s/видео.html
Instead of using the round travel stop you could gain an extra 1" of upward travel by drilling and bolting a stop bracket to the very top of the post. Assuming the air piston could travel that extra inch upward. Just a thought, I may be wrong.
I just installed this. Definitely go with his 20mm dimension recommendation for the mounting bracket, not the 18mm on the LMS template. I also recommend doing this at the same time you do the belt drive upgrade. At least the motor will be out of the way if you do. I had the spindle housing on a bench to pull out the old/uneeded intermediate shaft and gears, so drilling and tapping as well as replacing the Z axis gear rack was very easy.
I will say this air spring does support the mill head better than the torsion spring; however, the Z axis is stiff when course feeding downward toward the table. More than I prefer anyway, but I can work with it. I'm thinking that must be the tradeoff for the improved support unless I installed something incorrectly.
Just did this to mine a week ago. So much better now.
Heck yeah Tyce! I'm loving it currently. Have a great weekend!
Red Beard; in installing my air assist after watching you struggle around the motor; I would remove the motor fully from the mill and assemble the air assist and mount it to the mill before going through & measuring for the questionable holes (per the L.M.S. drawings which were underscale). Level the air assist up with a torpedo level & then use the punch to locate my drill holes through the block that mounts to the top of the machine. It may be an extra step or two but worth the extra effort. I put the belt drive onto my mill & it runs a lot quieter vs the plastic gears which are susceptible to breaking at the worst possible time.
Good point! Cheers sir
@@RedBeardOps when I got my mill home from Northern Tool after I toe the crate apart; it was "falling apart" by the time I got it from them. After I got it in the house I was going though things & took notice several fasteners that were installed with air tools were stripped out at the heads. I paid a visit to my local hardware store & got brand new fasteners. Call it O.C.D. but with my already planning on putting the v belt kit on I may as well get new hardware.
@@MRHSDM316SD18186 Man I gotta say; if I had to do it all over again with Sieg mills I'd just start with the LMS 3990. It's fantastic - ruclips.net/video/POFarYxpgws/видео.html
@@RedBeardOps I bought my mill after I inquired with Harbor Freight on the price; they wanted the money upfront & they still had to order the machine. I paid Northern Tool after they got the machine from China.
It is also worth mentioning that the reason LMS has these Sieg machines at their given price point is because they pretty much do all of the QC and necessary upgrades for you. The same mini mill from Harbor Freight will not have that unless you do it yourself. These guys are more like parts kits rather than full-fledged shop tools out the box. Shipping kinda sucks given that they are located in Pasadena, CA; but they are definitely good to go if you want to purchase table-top machines and more. I bought their 10" 12-speed drill press after my ancient Ryobi shat the bed, can't wait till that comes in!
Nice!
The Sieg mill is a "mill of many names" IIRC Practical Machinist magazine did an article on the SiegX2D. The same applies to yard equipment; i.e. lawn mowers, snow blowers, etc.
Great diy step by step video. I have wanted to do this to my Grizzly Mill Drill. I believe that I can now do it and not screw it up. Thanks ! Be blessed!
Hey Earl, thanks for your comment! Happy you found this one helpful!
The more I see of it, the more I am lovin' that shop, Red! Hope ya have a great weekend lined up!
Thank you very much John! Much appreciated!
Congratulations on your upgrade to ur mini mill keep up the great craftsmanship and work forge on
Thank you very much Jared! I'll do my best
Red Beard Ops that's all you can do is ur best
I finally was able to purchase this kit from LMS the other night when I was at work. I should have it by next week.
Nice!
@@RedBeardOps LMS has been "OOS" on this kit since at least September if last year
Dude, get your self a belt system.
You can make it your self if you have 3d printer.
You will how ever need at least 1 small pulley machined from either ABS or Nylon, or aluminum.
Large pulley can be 3d printed. Check out my last video on that subject, maybe you'd want to try it out.
Sorry for my delay on this comment! I did that upgrade! Way good. ruclips.net/video/wOQ1QXdvO4s/видео.html
Excellent video and narration! I’ll install my air spring kit tomorrow using your suggestions. Well done!
Very nice! Good luck!
Dude, thanks so much for the help, your video supplemented with the instructions helped make this an easy project. I also saw the template was wrong . I’m not sure why they haven’t fixed it . This also gave me room to mount a dro on the left side now that the spring is gone.
Heck yeah! Glad it helped Matt! Cheers
so it's basically threaded strut with a block to mount to the head. I think I could fab the upgrade, since LMS has been sold out of these for a long time. I could go on with my torsion spring but it kind of gets in the way for the best place to mount a DRO on my Grizzly 8688
thanks for showing the process! very simple to see how it's done
Cheers Paul! Glad you got something out of this one.
Good video.. I never heard a torx called "tor-rex" though
Lol, sorry, I can't speak! Glad you liked it
Darn it looks like a Mini mill is on the list to buy. Just handy to have....Great upgrade. Stay cool.
Thank you sir, it really is nice to have. I wish I would of started with the version from little machine shop.... It comes with the rigid column and air spring allready installed. The pivoting column on a mill of this size is dumb as heck! LOL
Nicely done. I have a LMS mini mill, but still need to do the air spring upgrade to it as their version still came with the torsion spring back when I bought it.
Interesting! Yeah for sure do that... wayyyyy better
Good stuff... I have that same mill as well as the HF lathe. I need to true them both up though and tighten up everything.
Very cool. I'm thinking of replacing the column on mine with a fixed column... That pivot is dumb
@@RedBeardOps I've got some kind of upgrade for it... brushless motor maybe? Hell, I dont even remember what it is. I've had it for years now and havent gotten around to installing. Too many projects, too little time.
@@rroberts8501 Man, that's the damn truth...
Been wanted you to do a video on your mill. Thanks a lot.
Thanks sir! I know it's not a full review of the mill, but hopefully can help guide you into the right direction. Cheers man.
taking the motor off is trivial and would help make your work easier 🙂
The piece you have got at the end should saved you grinding the one that prevented the maximum upward movement.
Looks like you could put a hole in that cap that went on top of the column and then you can seal it off just go around the air spring
Hey Casey, I think you're right that would work.
Great job man. Very clear guide to the upgrade to correct a real limitation with this design. Is there a motor upgrade available in the US mine is only 350W I’m in the UK.
Thanks! I'm actually not sure about the motor upgrades; sorry about that!
Nice mod! Love the music in the background. 👍
Thanks man! Appreciate that feedback... I've been playing around with that in editing.
Excellent tutorial! I ordered this and the belt drive upgrade today. A quieter drive system and more refined z axis will really be a nice addition.
Cheers Brian! Glad it could help!
5:10 - that's where you need a right angle drill attachment!
That is true! Thank goodness that hole didn't need to be precision! lol
Very nice mod m8! Always good to be able to i prove on your gear if you can. Without haven to spend crazy money ofc😀
Thanks Fran! Agreed
Looks great!! it'll get plenty off use for sure!!
Thank you sir. I'm happy to get rid of that torsion spring!
nice one, cheers
Thank you sir!
I also suggest the L.M.S. belt drive conversion.
I've heard great things about that!
@@RedBeardOps very easy to put on. I had the conversion kit before I got the mill from China. And it does make the mill quieter, and comes with all required hardware
@@RedBeardOps it runs quieter than with the plastic gears
Very nice! Um was that piece intended to replace the longer column stop you ground down? Or was it a spacer for the mounting rod of the assembly? Or maybe it’s for use in one of the other mills that are slightly different? No docs, so it’s all guessing here.
As to the torsion assembly....perhaps it becomes a piece of Damascus for another blade project....
I mean the spring might come in handy somewhere down the line, but it doesn’t seem like much of a spring, anyway. But it appears to have enough carbon to probably harden well and might just be good material for “Bodger’s Damascus” (bodger- see any old episode of Junkyard Wars).
I really enjoy these videos you put out!
Hey Chuck, that spacer wasn't in the instructions... so I have no idea! LOL, once I find out from little machine shoip I'll put it in the top pinned comment.
Good thought on the torsion spring... That spring may be good metal.
Thank you sir! Have a great weekend!
If you wait to drill the new stop until after removing the spring the motor is not in the way.
Red, get yourself a ratcheting tap tee, you’ll love it when in tight spots.
Thanks Lee!
Yup, going to buy this conversion kit for my second hand LMS 3960 I just bought. I'm curious to know if it's best to leave the head all the way up so as to now keep the gas strut always compressed? Basically, like springs etc. they stress relax over time so what's the best position to leave the head? Thank you.
Man that's a good question. I have no idea! Worth researching.
@@RedBeardOps these struts have been and still are used in the auto industry. One way to think about it, do car owners leave their hatches open when possible? :) It's probably a moot point to consider, but that's how I roll.
That spacer you didn't use. I purchased a 2mm longer capscrew for the rod attachment at the bottom of this assembly and used the spacer to move the cylinder section of the of the gas shock away from the column. It rubs at the fully lowered position without this spacer.
Thanks Bob!
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
Perfect video. Could you do me a favor, I hope it's not asking too much. My enclosure for my mill when not in use has a certain ceiling height and I want to know if this will clear it with the head lowered all the way down. Could you tell me the overall height of the installed mechanism with the head lowered?
Thanks. With the chuck touching the table the total height is 26-3/4'' (about 3.5'' taller than the column)
Is it a t30 or t27 for the z axis feed? I literally just got it apart n realized i didn't have torx at home. Guess im headed to Walmart. Of course they couldn't use a normal alen
Sorry Michael, I really don't remember
Did I hear a change in the opening gunshot sound? 😎
🇬🇧🤜🏻⚡️🤛🏻🇺🇸
Lol, no sir! It's the same one. You're hearing things! ;)
Red Beard Ops
I must be! 🤣
Time to make some bangs myself! 😎👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🙏🏻
good tutorial is that dove tail slide made of steel, because it looks like aluminium when you drill it
I'm fairly sure it's all cast iron. Cheers sir!
What sort of things do you use that mini mill for?
I use it a lot as a very rigid drill press... But I've milled a good deal of aluminum on it to make tools (surface grinder). I also use it with a router bit to flatten handle scales. I've done some milling on steel with it as well, but note you'll have to be patient with your feed rates. Lastly I've used it to mill guard slots on hidden tang knives, and plan to use it to mill in my shoulders on my next hidden tang.
They may of put in a extra part from another kit.
I just received my upgrade kit. The 18mm dimension you say could be 20 or 22mm... Which would you suggest to have the "air spring" plum, 20mm or 22mm? I'm going to remove everything so tool clearance isn't a consideration.
Hey man, I have to say I'm not sure. It was a while since I've done this project.
@@RedBeardOps
No problem. I just installed the air spring first and held it plum. Then I got my location. Turns out they may all be slightly different. I ended up at 15mm rather than the 18mm on the drawing or the 20-22mm suggestion from you. Thanks for your reply brother.
Nice video. What types of metal are you able to mill with that?
With patience just about anything. I've milled aluminum and steel with it. You really need to take your time with it though on steel. Having a solid/fixed column would help.
@@RedBeardOps Does Little Machine Shop's mill have a fixed column as purchased? How about their gears...are they plastic like HF's? Have you upgraded those? Sorry for 20 questions!
@@walte99 It comes with a fixed column and air spring. And I think a more beefy motor. On the gears side, I know it doesn't have the plastic gears, but I'm not sure if it's got metal gears or the belt system. Worth checking out!
sweet dude.....
Thanks man!
Looking back are you happy with the mill / drill or would you have gone for a tradition knee mill?
For my garage set up, I love my little mill! I would get the one form little machine shop
is there no w way to make the torsion spring stiffer? i.e wind it a bit tighter?
I'm not sure Chris. Sorry about that
Nice tutorial, I need to do that to mine. Have you gotten any stickers yet?
Thanks Randall, Much appreciated. No sir I have not, but am thinking about getting some.
Hey... great Video! I git the same Mill. After Christmas, a made a Upgrade with a DRO... and also MK3 collet chuck ER32
First Upgrade i made was a Lightsource....
New Subscriber here. ! Happy New year!
Very cool! I'm glad to have you on board. I'll have a DRO install coming soon! Cheers
If you have the space I'd spend about the same money as a Sieg X2 to get a knee mill...
How much additional height is the assembly over the top of the column. I might need to reposition a light overhead. Fewer parts then the two air spring units and pully and cables I have seen done.
With the chuck touching the table the total height is 26-3/4'' (about 3.5'' taller than the column)
@@RedBeardOps So if the head is at the upper stop it could be like 13 1/2 inches above the column top?
@@gvet47 The height of the mechanism above the column is fixed.
@@RedBeardOps Sorry had to watch again. Now I see it stays relative by the he fixed rod. I must have spaced out. I have a tachometer that sits on the top of the column now but it is just on a magnetic base I moved from a small wood lathe. Have a similar setup on my small metal lathe both in 3D printed boxes.
So thats the mill Ive seen you true up surfaces on? Is it capable of surface grinding?
Hey man, I use a surface grinder for the flats on knives. You could use a mill for that operation, but it would take much longer. I use this mill for all my drilling, and for milling in slots for guards, shoulders, flattening handle scales, etc.
Here is my surface grinder build - ruclips.net/video/_Q2aujE3pWk/видео.html
@@RedBeardOps You were nice enough to reply and I thank you, but I think a meaningful question is... can you grind a billet as flat and as uniform as capable, and use a mill to do the rest an a reasonable amount of time? My budget wont allow to buy both the tools right now, and I'm not gonna build my own surface grinder and especially with out a mill?
@@xthemadplumberx7110 I think to do this on a mill you would want a magnetic chuck and a fly cutter. It's all possible, but I think you'd be better off going a different route if flattening is all you want it for.
The motor come off with just 4 bolt. So easy
10-4 good to know!
I have exactly mill (OTMT) and the motor has intermittent power. When I turn the potentiometer the motor sometime turn and sometime not turn. Anyone please help me to fix this problem? Thanks.
I bet your plastic gears are broke. Watch my belt upgrade here - ruclips.net/video/wOQ1QXdvO4s/видео.html&lc=UgymRwUyb2-FRc-y6WF4AaABAg may help
@@RedBeardOps Thank you very much. I will upgrade my mill to belt drive as you did.
@@RedBeardOps I open the top. the gear look ok. Even with the motor does not attach to gear. It still not turn. I got only 64 volt to the motor. Not sure it is right.
@@trivu5951 I'd advise contacting the people here to help you troubleshoot - littlemachineshop.com/
@@RedBeardOps I will. thanks.
nice little mod but it is a shame it goes inside the columm as I will be filling that with epoxy granite
You may be able to rig it up on the outside. Would take some fabrication though! Cheers man !
@@RedBeardOps I was wondering that also.. Thanks for the reply
did this years ago.
then as things like windows went hostile and PCs fried... i havent used it in years.
tearing down the other day. new bearings, spindle, blah blah...
THEY LEAK!
what was 15kg iirc, is now about 2kg...
interesting comment sir
@@RedBeardOps
contemplating an air cylinder now. 16mm/250mm stroke. assume 1/2 sqin.
regulate the input air to whats needed, so about 60psi.. actual figures may vary...
ditto on the exhaust, just a pound or two higher.
doesnt need valves, only balancing the pressure in there.
(its closer to 90 psi, 16mm bore is approx 1/3 sqin. 20mm is about 1/2. theyre pretty cheap.)
Mill not available
Upgrade part back order.
Typical
Sorry to hear that Tony!
Just pull off the motor
Much worse then the spring,, l made a 1/4 inch steel base 6 inches wider and welded a back support with angle supports and permanently mounted colum, took out most of the chatter
I've had pretty good results with the air shock so far. Gosh the original spring was bad! lol; cheers
@@RedBeardOps yeah I agree I need to change mine,, but I had to fix the tram first,, with colum Mounted fixed and wider base I can make deeper cuts and much less chatter, couldn't even use all the motors capacity with the weak colum pivot before,, l used 2 Allen screws can still turn it on angle if I had to but I don't know why I ever would,, bad design , other than that I'm happy with the mill,, l have a Sheldon horizontal mill and 6 Atlas lathes and a Logan I've restored like new too resell,, they have tripled in price in the last 3 years
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Did you upgrade your air spring?