Harbor Freight Mini Mill brushless motor upgrade
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
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I found a surplus electric scooter motor rated at 600 W and replaced the motor on my Harbor freight mini mill with this powerful motor. One great feature is the emergency stop. And if you stall the motor, it shuts down. After it stalls, it will take 10 seconds before you can restart the motor. If you leave the speed knob turned up after you hit the stop button, the motor has holding torque until you turn the knob all the way down.
Brushless 600 what DC motor.
NOTE! AS OF AUGUST 2023 THEY ARE NO LONGER BE AVAILABLE! You may be able to find something similar if you search the web.
Some people have found a similar motor and you will need a 24VDC 27 Amp power supply to power it. I found one available from Digi-Key for over $210, here's a link:
www.digikey.co...
Please be sure that the motor you have found runs on 24 V DC and not a higher voltage for instance.
Duraflex cogged 2L130 Polyurethane cog belt: www.grainger.c...
The Little Machine Shop belt drive kit is here:
www.littlemach...
There is a guy in Maine who repairs mini mill and mini lathe motor control boards and has upgraded ones too: olduhfguy.com/
Tools I own, use in my videos and recommend (as an Amazon Affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases.)
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Deburring Wheel, Nylon Fiber Buffing Polishing Wheel 6 inch 9P Hardness: amzn.to/3XlIzLN
Thrust Needle Roller Bearing with Two Washers 1/2" (for mill spindle nut): amzn.to/3CS65bg
Metric M42 8% Cobalt Twist Drill Bits Set for Stainless Steel and Hard Metal (1mm-10mm/19pcs): amzn.to/3HjquIV
Shars DRO for mini-lathe Z-axis (carriage) position. (You can cut down the 24" capacitive scale - it's aluminum.): amzn.to/3fjOfFw
Digital tachometer: amzn.to/3UePGUg
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DC motor speed controller (for mill table feed and mini-lathe carriage): amzn.to/3WOhOjk
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Let me know if you see anything else in my video that you'd like to know more about and I'll either add it here in this description or in response to your comment.
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Been running a treadmill board on mine for the past few years after my original board died. Found your video and immediately searched ebay for a motor. Modeled some mount plates in Freecad and 3d printed them. Wired it all up and running great. Thank you for the video.
Wow, that's really cool. Glad I inspired you! 🙂
I did this mod to my little machine shop Seig mill over a year ago. I
built my own belt drive system using cog type pulleys and belt. My
motor is 750 watts 24 volts. Best thing to ever happen to that mill.
have a parts list and any pics or steps? thanks!
Very well done! I appreciate your methodical approach and explanations. Including a do-over is a rare element of these type of videos and makes the experience quite real. I learned alot from this video. Thanks.
Funny how I watched your video weeks ago and this week my X2 motor bearing became shot. As it worsened, broke two high end endmills, 30$ gone. So I re watched your video and will embark on the same project.
I really like how you left most of what many YT's would remove due to time constraints. I think it was a good move. Watching you use your skillset, any thoughts about picking up a dividing head or rotary table anytime soon? Imagine the neat stuff you can make with one of those, not to mention lots of new content to keep us busy on your channel. Food for thought!
Thanks for your kind thoughts.
Yes, I have owned a small 3-in rotary table for some time and have used it on a number of videos, most recently constructing the InclinoClock face:
ruclips.net/video/jLS2trTL6DY/видео.html
And in an earlier video where I made a sprocket drive to move ball bearings:
ruclips.net/video/xiuY2M31obA/видео.html
Your electrical knowledge is very impressive along with upgrading skills, the content here and other offerings is a valuable source of information for the metal hobbiest
Thanks!
Thanks for taking your time to explain the upgrade in such detail. Your craftsmanship is awesome.
Thanks, the company that sells that motor is going out of business soon, so if you're planning on doing the upgrade you should buy it now!
The key thing is that your new brushless motor has a hall sensor in it (the motor controller can track the position of the rotor). So where you slow the speed of your old brushed, DC motor you do that by decreasing the total power to the motor. The brushless controller, with the help of the hall sensors, can increase voltage and amperage to ensure the motor keeps spinning at the same slow speed when under load. So you get close to full power at all speeds.
Yes, I knew that. I have a couple of e-bikes with similar motors in them. The torque is impressive!
That e-stop feature is bad ass
Yes, I really like that feature. The interesting thing is that once I've stopped it with that button, if I leave the speed knob turned up, the motor has some holding torque until I turn the knob back down.
Fyi, the surplus store that sells these motors is closing this year, so get one while they still have them if you're interested.
Clean and professional job. For the price, this looks like a high value upgrade. Thanks for posting!
Totally works for me! Thanks for watching, and don't forget to subscribe
Hi I have just found your video, and what a fantastic treat. Thank you. I am a retired cabinet maker, and I have been doing small engineering things in my work shop just to keep active. I am now a subscriber, thanks Guy best regards from North East England 🇬🇧 😊
@@johnharris5758 thanks John, you can't tell from the way I talk, but I grew up in England along the river Tees near Darlington. I consider myself an expat at this point though.
Much quieter, nice control. Good one.
Yeah, it works great!
A great upgrade, well done and I suspect that the component suppliers can soon expect a sizable increase in orders!
Thanks! I hope they don't sell out of that motor too soon - it's surplus and probably a very limited stock.
Hi, I splased out on one of the optical centre punch a few years ago and its now one of my favourite tools. that motor looks like a good upgrade. Cheers Dave.
I propose a momentary SPDT push-button with COM connected to the wiper input to the motor, the NC connected to your speed control POT wiper and the NO connected to the OFF end of the speed control POT, it might allow you to restart at full speed while retaining the same speed that you had. A scary thing if you bump the switch but it could be under a cover to avoid accidental restart.
Nope, that won't work it can't jump start to a fixed speed. Been there, tested that. But I do seriously love the emergency stop button, I use that preferentially over dialing the knob down.
nice content. for the shaft hole perhaps a reamer instead of a boring bar when yoour at clean up passes?
Yes, I didn't have a set of reamers at that time.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff a project ive attempted a couple times annd failed but will keep at is making my own. the hard part is nailing the heat treat. too hard and the teeth chip out or it snaps over tempered and they quickly blunt or it bends.
fun project
Great Upgrade! I have the same mill and will use your recipe to upgrade the motor. I have a belt drive already (hand made...not from LMS), but I think I may buy theirs and adapt it as you have as it looks a bit more sturdy.
Thanks, I'm sure you will enjoy the upgrade, I am!
If you see my recent videos you can see the motor turning very slowly for slot cutting and it has a ton of power when doing that, and I also use the emergency stop button all the time because it's just quicker to stop the motor. I'm not sure how many more of these motors they have in stock at that surplus supplier so you should definitely buy the motor and power supply soon.
Nice video.
The pully at the motor end appears slightly eccentric. Thanks.
I know it looks that way, but it is actually perfectly concentric. I'm really pleased with the way this whole thing came out.
like that motor and set up. I just made all the parts to change the X lead screw to one that gos all the way across and supported by bearings both ends , I made an xtra kit if you want it , just bolt on all parts are machined and new parts. one end is a stub shaft for adding power feed 12mm . 250 for the kit. , it will feel and operate like a different mill , lead screw nut adjustable included.
Thanks for watching, I've been using the new motor now for months and I'm really happy with it. Thanks for your offer, but I'll pass. I'm happy with my setup as-is. I'm sure someone else will benefit from your extra parts.
The amount of back emf that the motor creates with that brake must be huge!
Huh, I hadn't thought of that. I'm sure the internal electronics have all kinds of diode protection for those surges. I use the hard brake routinely and have had no problems so far.
This is the second video of yours I watched today and I have to say you have a lot of excellent tricks up your sleeve, I'm going to use a bunch of them! Thank you!
You got yourself another subscriber!
Thanks, I'm glad to hear you have found my videos helpful! :)
From one RUclips guy to another you do a perfect video for tutorial. Well done. I just ordered a Sieg from Little Machine Shop and this is the kind of information I'm always looking for.
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback. :)
nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice. The noise is the cogs on the belt on a smooth pulley. If the pulleys were cogged it would be very quit
Actually it's the motor itself. Brushless motors like this tend to cog at low speeds, I hear it in my e-bike all the time. The pulley is very quiet and has a much better "grip" than the stock V-belt.
Love you machining videos and how you explain things! Keep it up!
Thanks, will do!
Sent a like your way. Nice conversion.
Thanks 👍
Awesome job you did there. I still have the original motor on mine with an upgraded belt drive system. tachometer and a spindle light added. Works fine, but really needs more torque. I can your setup for this specific motor on a currently CNC mill that I am building myself. However, one big issue is to know how much this motor weighs, If you don't mind mentioning, I would really appreciate, because the PDF specs page on the website of the motor seller does not indicate the weight. Great project and thanks a million.
Sorry, I don't know the weight. You could call All Electronics and they could tell you.
its about the same, if not fractionally lighter than the stock.
Awesome upgrade bud. Be careful that extra torque doesn’t break other parts of the mill.
Yeah, especially with large cutters at slow speeds!
i been wanting to see vid like this for the resurrection of the red thing.
Thanks Guy for this. I have modified my Grizzly mini mill, but I did it in a much simpler way. Just raised the motor on two aluminum blocks(motor is mounted on those two only). It works great. I have just reused the original pulley, I have cut down the small one(I should have left it). I actually like the motor sound, I hated the original motor's sound. I have also cut down from the drawbar hex, left only a 3/8" height. It is enough for a wrench.
Sounds good. I assume you have a way to tension the belt as well right?
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Yes. At the bottom plate(from the pulley kit), on the left side, I have elongated the mounting hole.
Tonight, I have cut through a 1/4" steel plate, with a 1/4" roughing end mill! Making an engine mount flange(scratch building a Locost).
What motor did you use and where did you get it? I have one coming in and wanted to get all my parts and upgrades ready. Was it basically just remove old motor put new in? Or did you have to make anything? I thought I've seen stronger motors that are taller but I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated. Thank.
@@Mikesmeyer88 watch my video carefully to see how I did everything. I tried to make everything clear and simple. Details of the motor and power supply are in the description below.
This on my list.... I need a bigger motor on my X2 mill soon... Maybe later this spring :)
The cool thing is the power at the low speed range or things like fly cutters!
would love to be able to do this on my LMS X2D. Great videoThank you for sharing!
Thanx Guy great vid,, well explained
Glad it helped
Good job!
awesoem upgrade! i think your spindle bearings are goig out
Why do you think so? You may be hearing something else rattling in the machine. I'm pretty sure the bearings are fine.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff i was seeing slight moveement in the videl is why i thought it but could be wrong.
@@mike9500 it was probably some kind of video artifact of the lighting. I just grabbed the spindle and gave it a wiggle and it's rock solid.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff good to know! :)
A nice conversion.
It's a pity that that motor does not have a reverse mode. Not a surprise as people rarely drive their motor bikes in reverse. Still useful for tapping and so on.
People don't understand just how fast that an electric motor can be stopped. Thanks for showing them. This is even more impressive when done on a massive mill with a huge cutter. Hit the e-stop and that tool just stops. In fact, the same thing with a lathe, you have to be careful not to stop too fast, spitting a rotating part out of a lathe can be a bit exciting.
The one thing that I would think about doing is adding a third support standoff to the bottom plate, that should cut some of your noise.
Thanks for your thoughts. I haven't really missed a reverse option on the mill yet. I prefer hand tapping to machine tapping.
Not sure that I agree that it would need a third support. The motor is relatively quiet and the mounts being such a large diameter are very sturdy.
Looks nice! You may want to consider a 3d Printer for making your own little things like a custom electrical box, box cover, etc. Super handy to have. I got the Tenlog TL-D3 Pro (fdm printer) and an AnyCubic (resin printer) but there are many, choices on the market now.
I'm well aware of 3D printers. I just don't like them. To me it's dishonest craftsmanship. But they do have their place for things that simply cannot be fabricated using a mill or lathe - I get it. But I see so many people using a printer for things that could be easily fabricated or at least more enjoyable to fabricate using machine tools.
It's funny to me that machines, that made the original crafts like filing and smithing obsolete, are now considered true old fashioned craftsmanship.
I also upgraded my motor on my mini mill. I’m no expert so I bought a book on modern brushless motors. This book suggested that to get hi torque at low RPM you must have a motor that runs on very high voltage. And every expert I spoke to agreed with that. So I got a motor that runs at 160 volts and it required a speed controller box which included a power supply which takes standard North American 110 volt mains and steps it up to 160 volts.
It works great and now I can cut real steel -cold rolled, hot rolled and stainless.
What I’m wondering is how well your scooter motor runs with just 24 volts.
Interesting. I didn't know that. I'm very happy with my 24 volt motor. But then I don't push the limits of the Machine by milling steel, I'm mostly working with aluminum and brass and making relatively small things.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Another thing I learned through the experience was that you can’t use an ordinary friction belt drive for cutting steel with a powerful motor. The belts just slip. First I upgraded to a 3/8 wide toothed timing belt and even it slipped (and made a horrible noise as the teeth fanned against pulley wheel teeth). Eventually I had to go with a 20 mm wide HDT 5M timing belt and pulley wheels to match.
fantastic work mate .. I've the same mini mill, it keeps blowing the fast blow fuse so thinking of putting a new motor and drive on myself.. that motor looks just ideal...
So far that motor is working out very well for me. Tons of torque at low speed and with the belt ratio I can run it up to 2200 RPM which is plenty for me. You might want to order the motor soon because they will sell out of that limited stock of surplus.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff I'll get onto it at the weekend, probably the best motor conversion I've seen by far and taking out the original circuit boards and all the other gubbins to replace with a simple controller and safety stop is a no brainer.. thanks for the vid, really Informative 👍👍🤙
I forgot to mention that there is a guy in Maine who repairs mini mill and lathe motor control boards and has upgraded ones too: olduhfguy.com/
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff totally missed your reply..I'll be ordering the parts and other bits this weekend, Ill have to order this motor from the US as I can't find a UK seller anywhere..lol.. I'll keep you posted and maybe give you a holla if I get stuck with the wiring, it's not my strong point..lol
@@shepherdcustomknives6355 OK, good luck and I'll stand by to help out.
Very nice - After this I wonder how long they'll have those motors! Certainly more robust than the original.
Thank u
I’m going to do this type to my mill,perfect video
Glad it helped
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.
Thanks!
Thanks Marty, I'm glad you enjoyed my video!
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff You're very welcome, you made me cackle with the 'closet glue sniffer' comment. Thank you. I'd also never heard of an optical center punch. What a great tool, that could have saved me some strife on occasion!
That's great I would love to have one
Love it.. But the noise.. Sheesh.. Still Awesome🤙
The motor only makes that growling sound at low rpms. Other than that, it is so much torque across the whole speed range that is just awesome!
I wonder how well this setup would work on a gas to electric lawnmower conversion. The rotational speed seems pretty close and it should have plenty of torque. Thanks for the source and the wiring diagrams. Much appreciated.
That's a good thought! Many years ago I did do an electric conversion using a big DC motor and a lead acid battery. Here's more info about that project:
www.arttec.net/Solar_Mower/index.html
For cutting aluminium, try rubbing alcohol instead for cutting oil!
Seriously? Isn't rubbing alcohol mostly water? Don't want to rust my machine.
I stumbled across this video and found it to be very interesting and informative, thank you. I'll have to check out your channel more often ( just subscribed). Before the motor upgrade, how did the original motor work with thw power supply upgrade? Is it worth it to try thaat first or just do this upgrade? I haven't used my mini mill for years but would like to try it again. I didn't like how the motor would stall out and was going to put a treadmill motor on it but this looks better. Thank you for any reply.
Guy. Excellent upgrade on your mini milling machine. I am new to machining. Just purchased mini mill from harbor freight and a 7x14 vevor mini lathe. I also ordered the motor and power supply from all electric. Do ineed to order the 5k pot. And you have wiring diagram for the mini mill. Thank you Guy
Welcome to the wonderful world of hobby machining!
There's a chance that the pot on your HF Mill is a 5k, but if not then you will need to order one.
The wiring diagram is on the All Electronics website on the motor product page, check the link in my description.
Hello Guy. I noticed that when you spun up the motor for the first time on the machine, there was a LOT of runout in the pulley that you made. This is quite bad for the belt. Have you noticed any issues since you started running it with this modification?
I think you must have been misreading the video. The pulley is perfectly concentric and always was. The motor and drive system is working flawlessly and has been ever since I built it. Sometimes I adjust the belt tension if I want to allow for some slip when the spindle seizes but mostly I keep it quite tight.
maybe add a starting Cap. should help with start ups
Nope, that won't work. This is a three phase motor with an integrated VFD drive.
Awesome! Thanks
Thanks, I hope you found it helpful.
What a nice machine
I inherited this exact machine from my grandfather, brought it home, plugged it and tested it. Walked back in the house came out and it wouldn’t work…. I assumed it was the machine so I undid the back plate and undid the two connections coming from the power cord besides the ground…. Only to find out it was the $30 harbor, freight electrical reel that was 1 week old that quit in the 2 minutes I went inside!!
The problem was I unhooked both the hot and the neutral connection coming directly from the power cord and didn’t take a photo before and now don’t know which one goes where … any advise ?
I have traced the hot and neutral wire all the way from the plug to the disconnection junction box with the emergency shut off..
I have isolated from the emergency shut off switch
junction box that one of the cords goes to both the green light on the front and the RPM dial, and the other one goes to the green light on the front and the fuse. Which one is neutral and which one is hot?
Neutral and hot don't make much difference in this machine. But I strongly recommend you make sure the green wire is grounded to the chassis to be safe. I also plugged my machines into GFCI outlets.
can you briefly explain why we have to turn the potentiometer down and then back up? my lathe works like that...its kinda annoying.
I think it may be a safety thing. So you can't start it at maximum speed. But other machines like my wood lathe have a speed ramp so you can press a button to start it and it ramps up automatically. And yes, it is annoying!
Thanks for the great video. I happened to notice you had schematics in the background for the motor. Where can we find those and for the power supply? Thank you
Links to all the sources are in the description below the video.
I'd like to see how you made the controlled feed and stop. Excellent response; very unusual.
Here's the video I made about the motorized carriage:
ruclips.net/video/B18NLCKUYK0/видео.html
Very well done, I'm doing the same as per your suggestion, I have question: is the emergency switch n.o or n.c., also why you did not utilize the original pulley with modified 🙂I. .D. for the new motor?
Thanks
The emergency switch should be a normally open style. I guess I could have made an adapter for the pulley to the shaft, but I found it more enjoyable to experiment and make my own pulley.
thanks, keep the good work
I,m sorry but I have another question, regarding the wiring of the potentiometer: you show the colors as : black yellow and red ; the diagram from allelectronics, shows 4 wires : red, blue, black and white, which do I have to ignore and connect to the wire colors you show? Thanks . ( red with red; black with black; and ........ ) is it the blue or white? going with your yellow your yellow wire?
@@amosmaghini6242 the big red and black wires are for power. I don't remember the wire colors, because I spliced other colors on after-the-fact. But there were originally two connectors on the signal cable, the three pin connector goes to the potentiometer and the two pin connector goes to the emergency stop switch. You might want to review the video at around 1:23 where I show wire colors connected to the pot, but I'm not sure if they are my colors or original colors. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff I can see it, all I will have to do is look at the pins of the two connectors shown on the diagram. . Thanks.🙂
Nice job and very good ideas for the mini mil. You have me reconsidering one of these now.
With all the modifications you have made to the mini mill. Have you tried to measure the accuracy and precision across the bed yet?
I don't need extreme precision for most of the stuff I do. I do have the column trammed for left-right, and still need to tram front-back which is low on my needs at this point. It is a hobby machine, and I know it!
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff thank you and agreed 👍
I'm looking at a sieg x2d, this might be a good upgrade in the distant future
Definitely. You may need to be creative with how you mount the motor. But it is a dramatic improvement in the low speed high torque usage case for things like fly cutters etc.
Nice video, thanks :)
Glad you liked it!
That oil used for parting off looks like bug guts. 😀
Ha! Just basic cutting fluid! 🙂
nice job , but your pulleys are normal V-type pulley , wouldn't be better to use normal V-belt rather than using toothed/timing belt ?
Two reasons I'm using a V belt. One is that my design is based in part on the original belt conversion kit from Little Machine Shop, and the other is I like having some slip in case I stall the machine.
Did the power supply come with the motor? If not do you have a link for it? My motor is identical, do you have a wiring diagram of how you wired it up? Enjoy your videos. Subscribed and liked.
The power supply was separate, but the business sent sold it was a surplus company that has since closed. There is more info in the description below.
Ha you're lucky that you're not my neighbor!
Not sure how to interpret that! 🤔
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuffwould be bugging you make things or help with his mini mill all the time.
Another good video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for this information, especially the electrical, which thought process apparently wasn't passed on from my Father. One question, do you think that using the emergency stop repeatedly might damage the drive train components?
I'm glad my info is helpful! I have been using the emergency stop preferentially over turning the knob down and everything is still fine! Note that if you do press the emergency stop, if the knob is still turned up the motor has some holding torque until you turn it all the way down.
Guy what potentiometer did you use on this setup? This has to be the nicest setup I have seen on youtube.
The recommended pot is a 4.7K per the documentation.
NIce upgrade! The price seems very reasonable. I think I'll do this to my mill. The original motor works okay, but for some larger drills into mild steel there's just not enough power. As Tim Allen would say "more power". I looked for a link to the replacement belt you showed in the video and did not see it. Have you changed your mind about using it? If not I would appreciate being able to try that belt on my mini mill (I have the LMS belt drive installed). I jus found your channel and look forward to checking past videos and yes I just subscribed.
Here's a source for the
Duraflex cogged 2L130 Polyurethane cog belt: www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-DAYTON-Cogged-V-Belt-2L130-13V773
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff For one reason or another the link doesn't work (can't be found). I'll do a google search on the description. Thanks for responding.
Here is the Grainger part number: 13V773
Hope this helps.
do you have a list of parts, part numbers for the power supply and motor it would help frirst times users very well done!.
Everything is in the description!
wow，that's cool
For 28:59 on your emergency stop button couldn't you put a relay in that once you press the emergency stop button a second time it just completely recycles the power to the unit bypassing the need to rotate the knob back to zero? It would be like resetting the circuit it so the emergency mode is deactivated that way you don't have to turn the knob back to your original speed setting. Or another option just unplug the entire unit and plug it back in to do the same thing
I don't think either trick would work very well. But if you're planning to install this you can try it and let me know.
Is this precise enough to machine a 4 cylinder subaru engine head perfectly flat?
I don't work on engines so I would not have any idea how to mount one onto this but you should check whether the cutter head can have enough clearance from the table once installed in the spindle.
I’m enjoying the video
Thanks, I hope you find some of the things I share to be useful to you.
Guy,how explain changing tools on mill.Looks like the new motor plate covers the arbor bolt.By the way what is that on the top of the arbor bolt?
The draw bar is easily accessible. I think what you are noticing is a slight improvement where I put a bushing in at the top. See this video:
ruclips.net/video/BUSGpfaS2i8/видео.html
This is an awesome upgrade video. I enjoyed every minute of it especially how you explained the electronics. So you went from 2500RPM to 2200 RPM?? You lost 300RPM? Or was that just your low gear RPM? If it was then why didnt you show us your high gear RPM?
I'm glad you enjoyed my video! Yes, it is a tad slower now, but no big deal. I might fiddle around with the pulley diameters in the future to get higher speeds. Remember that this pulley drive setup bypasses the internal gears so it's direct motor to spindle drive now.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff high gear was a bad choice of words. I meant high speed setting vs low speed setting. In your case the different sized pulleys but you answered that. I’ve seen people with mostly two stepped pulleys but say they only use the one pulley since it’s fast enough but think they didn’t consider the possibility that the other pulley could have a stronger torque. Im not familiar with the physics of pulley size effecting torque so that’s what im looking into now.
@@ChristopherJones16 with pulleys and gears there's an inverse relationship between speed and torque. A small drive gear or pulley will give you more torque but less speed and vice versa. So I tried to strike a balance between the two with a ratio that works for me. But also this motor has a lot more torque at low speed. So that's a bonus!
In your picture, I can see you have a DRO, what is the box in front of it?
That's the control box for my motorized table. It has a speed control and left right switch and a display that shows 0 to 100% speed.
Dear Guy, very impressive. Is it possible to have to motor run CW or CCW?
This specific motor only runs in one direction, it is a surplus motor that was designed for scooters so reverse was never a consideration.
It says the new motor spec is counterclockwise rotation. I assume you can really run it clockwise as well? Nice conversion. No problem with the cylinder assist clearing?
CCW is the right direction when the shaft is down. I have no need to reverse a mill spindle and the HF did not have that option.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff I swear it looks like it is running clockwise to turn the spindle that way.🤔
@@gvet47 motor rotation direction is usually called out with the shaft facing you. I know, I'm dyslexic and often get things confused so I had to think about it a bit before I realized this was perfect for the mill.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Geesh I had to crawl under the motor to see the rotation. Getting too old. You should sell your risers and motor plate. Well, I guess the custom pulley as well!
The motor shaft does not look like it is keyed. Did you put double set screws or pin the pulley? The abrupt stop would sure need the pulley secured well.
I'll just have to live with the standard drive.😢
Reason why the engineers of the machine-tool underpowered the motor to prevent complete destruction of the assembly shall a catastrophe such as a tool jam or crash occur. If you feel your motor is inadequate you obviously picked the wrong tool for the job.
I disagree. They put a DC brush motor in there because it was cheap. The torque curve of a DC brush motor means it has low torque at low RPMs. But the brushless motor I installed has excellent torque at low RPM making it ideal for fly cutters and large diameter tools. I have stalled it many times and not broken anything. Plus there's the advantage of the emergency stop feature which is very helpful.
Hi, I found very interesting your project!, A question: can you explain the wiring diagram of the emergency stop switch? I know the wiring of the potentiometer but the switch? Thanks and best regards! Renato
It's very simple, it's just a push button connected to two wires on the wiring harness. The web page where you buy the motor has a spec sheet that explains it.
www.allelectronics.com/item/dcm-2460/24-vdc-brushless-motor-600-watt/1.html
My fan consumes 0.7 watts,
a 507 ohm resister in series with the fan permits using the 24 volts. This avoids going to an external 12 volts.
Thanks for that thought, I will probably switch that out. Oddly enough I have a similar project with a similar requirement where I did use a resistor.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff The resistor goes in series with the fan.and the fan and resistor are connected to the 24 volts. A 200 ohm resistor can be used,. the resistor value is based on a 0.7 watt fan.
@@BillWeaver-wp6hw Thanks, I know. I'm an electrical engineer and have designed dozens of electronic products. But it was just simpler to use the 12V power that I already had available for my tachometer and ring light. Also, I'm not that worried about heat as I have never seen the control box get warm at all.
Guy the scooter motor that I got on Ebay is very jerky @ slow speeds,is this normal with these motors?
Yes, at really slow speeds brushless DC motors have a cogging effect. But they also have a lot of power at that speed compared to a regular DC brush motor.
What about the cheap plastic gears inside the mill?
The gears are completely disabled and bypassed. The motor upgrade is direct motor to spindle with just one belt.
Is your drawbar bent or am I just seeing things? Great upgrade in combination with a belt drive.
No, It was running off center before I made a delrin insert that keeps it centered and easier to tighten. See this video about that:
ruclips.net/video/BUSGpfaS2i8/видео.html
Great video! How does the pulley attach to the shaft? Didn't see a keyway or set screw.
Thanks. I just used an 8-32 set screw. Sorry, but I skipped that in my video. It holds great - even with the motor stalled when I forget to unlock the spindle. But a keyway would definitely be better, I just don't have broaching tools - yet!
Now you can run some miles on your mill...
Hi- Guy how is the mill running with the motor upgrade? What size stock did you use for the pulley? I need to get my lathe finished up the rebuilt and make the 2" stand offs and pulley.
It's running great! Amazing power at low RPMs and all the way up to full speed. I believe I used 2 in aluminum rod stock for the pulley. The actual pulley diameter is up to you to optimize for higher or lower speed ranges.
How much power is too much?
There are similar motors available in wattages up to 6000w or more, plus they can be overvolted as long as you provide adequate cooling.
After using this for months, I feel that it's just the right amount of power for big stuff like fly cutters that need high power at low RPMs.
What I like about the belt drive is that this motor - despite the added power - will slip if the spindle stalls.
wondering sir, as i have purchased the same motor and power supply based on your recommendation; what tach you used? the tachometer you have listed in your parts list is 0-15v unit, the power supply is a 24v unit, unless you used some type of resistor in order to wire it?
Hi, I used a 12V wall plug power module for the tach - and also for my Y axis motor drive and the ring light around the quill. Heres the video about the ring light: ruclips.net/video/Hnl3pjBt-K4/видео.html
This is so cool i am thinking about upgrading to this just one question how is working out so far is motor still good and power supply are they both working or something gone bad?
Both are working GREAT! The motor is very well engineered. Only weird thing is that it sometimes does not start right - if you twist the speed knob up too fast it stops and won't start again for about 10 seconds. This is some kind of safety for when it's used in a scooter.
Also if you hit the Emergency STOP button the motor will have some holding torque until you turn the speed knob all the way back down. So some little things you just get used to.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff thank you so much for your quick reply i have one more question since you are a electrical engineer is it possible to just change the motor with tread mill motor if the motor is gone bad i mean keep the same control board and swap out the bad motor with treadmill motor? any help is greatly appreciated thank you again!. do you still have the control module that you would sell if so how much ?
@@nasrumomin no, you absolutely cannot swap out to a DC motor from a treadmill. This type of motor is very different and requires electronics which are internal to the motor.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff sorry guy to bother you again but you did not say about conrtol module if you still have it i would love to buy it and see if that will solve my problem
@@nasrumomin sorry, I don't have the original control module from my harbor freight mini Mill. But there is a guy who can help you out. His name is Pete and here's his web address:
www.olduhfguy.com
He repairs control boards for these machines and sometimes has used or repaired spares around.
You should duplicate these and sell as a kit. I know I would but one
I thought about it, but inventory management and shipping would be outrageous.
I would as well, I just purchased the Eastwood tools milling machine and the belt upgrade will probably get here before it, I thought about making my own gears with a indexing head but It needs to be pretty quiet. Is there a brushless motor thats as close to plug&play? Something with the same dimensions sort of or is that not possible? I think I just need something to get it up around the 3500rpm and with good torque.
@@Mikesmeyer88 this is the best brushless motor I could find. I don't think it could be more Plug and Play than this. As to speed, it's really a question of bully ratio size. My combination of pulleys max out at around 2,300 RPM.
After seeing this I bought a SPI version optical punch. After purchase I noticed its 120 degree. I am curious how the 120 punch works? I know you said you prefer the 60...
I'm not sure but maybe it's for softer metals?
What electric mower is this one. Make and model and where you bought it please
??? this video is not about mowers. If that was a typo, the electric motor link is in the description.
I see the motor of your CrossRef is 12vdc also. I have one of these and want to upgrade the drive motor and convert the whole thing to 12vdc to install on the service truck I'm building. My crossfeed is the Little giant one so I'll need to convert it to 12vdc. Is there a way to convert the DRO to 12vdc or do they have a 12vdc version available?
I can't help you with a 12V main drive motor, not sure 12V would be enough.
The Touch DRO runs on a 5V adapter, so you could drive it from a 5V voltage regulator. I needs less than 500mA. So a 1A regulator will work.
شكرا ع الفائده باقي بس اشتري نفس الجهاز 😅
Guy, I have a question. I thought this motor would be a great upgrade to my 45 year old lathe. Is there a good way to set this motor to go forward and reverse? Would just a, on off on, switch work? Thank you..
No, this motor is not reversible. It's a three-phase motor with internal vfd drive. You may want to consider using a treadmill motor which runs on 12 or 24 volts DC.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff thanks, that was going to be my other option.
If you're brave enough you could open up the motor and add a DPDT switch to swap two of the three legs to the stator. Whether or not that would be easy would require seeing the insides. But if you plan on doing such an upgrade yourself it would be best to buy a set where the electronic controller is not inside the motor so the addition of the reversing switch would be simpler.
Does it only turn one direction? Does flipping the polarity change the direction? Is it even needed?
yes, only one direction - not reversible. It's a brushless motor with the electronics embedded inside and inaccessible. The advantage is more power at low speeds.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Do you find that you miss the reverse function? These motors do have a variant that does reverse rotation but obviously they would cost more.
I bought 2 motors and a different power supply. All electronics is shutting down and once their stock is gone thats it.
@@AERuffy my Harbor Freight machine didn't have a reverse and I can only think of ever using it for tapping.
Yes I knew that the store was closing. I have been doing business with them since the early 1980s. It's a shame. They are one of the best electronics surplus stores.
is that a 110V AC to 24V DC Converter Power Supply you listed?
It accepts 90 - 264VAC as input.
THE MOTOR WHERE AND HOW MUCH IS THE COST
That motor is no longer available, it was surplus. Other details are in the description below.