How To: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Drain Pump 27001233
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- How To Replace: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Drain Pump 27001233 www.appliancepartspros.com/whi...
Symptoms: Broken; starts leaking water.
Tools: 1/4” nut driver, pliers (optional), 5/16” nut driver, putty knife, torx-20 screwdriver, 13mm socket wrench with extension, flat blade screwdriver, towel, small container.
Possible replacement: Washer Drive Belt 27001007
www.appliancepartspros.com/whi...
This Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag made Washer Drain Pump replaces the following older part numbers on Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Sears, and Kenmore Washers: 1159224, 27001036, 34550, 35655, 35742, 35742P, 36863P, 40040301, J27-957, PS1594294, Y34550.
Buy the new Washer Drain Pump 27001233 here: www.appliancepartspros.com/whi...
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I’ve seen a lot of people saying their drain pump is stuck on the motor after removing the three torque screws. Mine was the same and I struggled for a while trying to get it off. Do not pry against the pulley. I went to Home Depot and picked up Blaster Penetrating spray. I used quite a bit and let it sit for about 5 minutes, went back and hit it with another spray and let it sit. I set the motor on its side and gave the pump a good smack or two and it started to slowly but surely come off. The rust penetrator worked like a charm.
Phenomenal content in this video, this told me everything I needed to know to get my faulty drain pump and belt replaced. Thank you so much for the information! I'm sorry to say I was unable to purchase the replacement part (drain pump) from your website as it is stated as "No longer available". Thank you for making this video, I hope it helps others as well as it helped me.
Thank you for your video. You made the repair very simple...
Anyone else see what could be a spider all the way on the left side of the frame at 2:13? Hint, it’s tan. Great content as usual. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Great video!
Glad we could help!
excelent video thank you!!!!
Glad the video helped you get the washer fixed!
@@appliancepartspros That's interesting to note that the pump is directly on the motor, and the transmission is belt-driven. This means the washer is half direct-drive and half belt-drive.
thus video is for speed queen and amana that was made by speed queen
The part in this video may be compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Sears, and Kenmore washers.
How do I pull he water tank off the motor? Seems to be stuck in the middle where the belt goes and can't pull it straight up.
Were you able to remove all three Torx-20 screws that hold the pump in place, or were those stuck?
Screws are out tried toothbrush with soap to clean around all connected parts and used screwdriver to try to pry it up. And ideas?
It sounds pretty coroded. You may have to try something other than soap, like a rust penetrating oil. Soak it with something like Rust Buster, and that may help free it. www.appliancepartspros.com/pro-rust-buster-tj93241-ap5638848.html
I had to hit mine on both sides with a hammer... it finally broke free, had a lot of rust holding it in... don't pry between the pully and pump... you will bend the pully.
I hardly use my washer yet I just had to change the belt - AGAIN! I'm sure a heavy load of bath towels doesn't help the situation much when it tries to start the spin cycle but WHY is there so little tension on those belts? Just that one little wimpy spring so when it starts the spin cycle it sits there and the pulley spins inside the belt until things finally start moving, meanwhile it's killing the belt. Yes, it's the right length belt! Why don't they put a real spring on the thing so that the pulley actually has some grip?
I just got the appropriate belt and it seemed to fit snug, but like you said, Andork, the belt is stationary while the pulley is spinning inside of it. I would like to avoid burning another belt so quickly! Any tips from either you or AppliancePartsPros?
@@frederickchoe Finally the drum support bearing turned out to be bad, and there was no getting it apart to change it either, not without destroying everything. Bought the biggest, baddest puller I could fit in there and it f-ed up the puller! Finally gave up and bought a new machine. This one was 18 years old but I never used it that much. Anyway, I don't know if that bearing going bad hadn't been a longer term issue and contributed to the short belt life I was getting.
I’m nearing my end with this machine. Also 15 years old so maybe it’s just time to throw in the towel
@@frederickchoe Probably. 15 years on the average machine is a lot, lot more than I put on mine in 18. And to think I spent the extra money to get the stainless basket - so it would last longer!! At least now I have a stainless burn barrel!