How To: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Main Bearing Assembly WP40004201P
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- Опубликовано: 19 янв 2016
- How To Replace: Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag Main Bearing Assembly WP40004201P www.appliancepartspros.com/whi...
Symptoms: The washer is noisy during the spin cycle.
Tools: 5/16” nut driver, putty knife, pliers, locking pliers, 7/16” socket, 13mm socket or 1/2” socket, socket wrench with extension, flat blade screwdriver, pipe wrench, sledgehammer, wooden block, towel, container, Rust Buster.
This Whirlpool/KitchenAid/Maytag made Washer Main Bearing Assembly replaces the following older part numbers on Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, Sears, and Kenmore Washers: 40004201P, 27182, 40004201, R0610011.
Buy the new Washer Main Bearing Assembly WP40004201P here: www.appliancepartspros.com/whi...
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Хобби
Thanks for a very informative video very precise i repair truck transmissions but never had the guts to open a washing machine after watching your video it gave me the confidence to open my on which has been noisy for a long time
Thankd
The seal was leaking water which is what caused the bearing failure. Why would you do all that work and not replace the cause? The seal and bearing kit is part number w10116791.
Excellent point! If you are going to do all that work, go with new seals.
I love how the use of Duct Tape was used ! And don’t forget to Give er a Tug, Good Job
Thank you!
Well this video saved me spending $2000 on a new machine!!!
You can buy the replacement bearing from any decent bearing supplier and save a few bucks and time, mine only cost $12.30 and was a high quality one.
Thanks for making the video guys it’s breathed a new lease of life into a 15 year old machine!!!!
I'm going to try this...I think I can get the bearing out of the bracket with a hammer and punch set ok, but how did you insert the new bearing into the bracket without a bearing press?
@@maubunky1 I just tapped it in from memory! Ha was over three years ago 😂 but machine recently died so replaced it with a Fischer & Paykel front loader.
@@maubunky1 I just tapped it in from memory! Ha was over three years ago 😂 but machine recently died so replaced it with a Fischer & Paykel front loader.
Video very good - a few observations from replacing bearing, drive belt on 18 yr old appliance:
Age does not make for easy part dissasembly.
4:20 pulling agitator off was a 20 min endeavor - best have some small prying tools at hand.
7:56 30 min of pounding later, I realized the 6" gear puller to be the tool of choice.
Thanks for those tips!
Guess I'm gonna have to try that before I scrap the whole thing.
I certainly don’t miss doing these.
I worked for Amana Raytheon in the 90’s
Try doing the RADAR RANGE microwave control panel conversion kit.
Amazed me why people even bothered hiring the factory for us to do that repair.
By the way, good job on the washer video!
Microwaves are a throw away items now.
Everything is throwaway anymore
it doesnt need a sealant?
This procedure works for the Amana DLW330RAW (etc) models which are the Speed Queen mechanism except with a plastic outer tub with a galvanized steel bottom plate instead of the dark porcelain steel outer tub. Note that the plastic tub design uses a 7th spring on the rear, instead of a counterweight. That extra spring has an eye near the top attachment, into which you insert a hook tool (bent coathanger works) to pull the top of the spring out of the outer tub bottom plate.
Thanks very much. Very helpful. I'll buy my parts from you!
You're welcome! Glad we could help!
Excelente explicación.
Excelente video, tengo una y ya sabre como darle mantenimiento
The only problem I see is that the spline insert goes BEFORE you put the nut. The spline insert holds the nut in place so it will not come off.
I think you're correct, because that's the assembly order shown in the exploded parts diagram.
Just a query what about reselling all the seals when putting back together ? ie the main seal under the hub
awesome video , but what is the part number for the seal just in case
Will this stop it from leaking in that area? I got it about 98 percent tore down and I'm suspecting it is the bearing.
On our LWS34AW washer: 10+ years ago I replaced the main bearing along the seal (Kit PN: R9900552 - now only found on Ebay). Now it's time to do it all again (washer is howling during spin cycle). This video does a nice job with replacing the main bearing (99% of the job), but it assumes reuse of the seal. I haven't yet been able to find a video detailing the specific steps of replacing the seal - applying RTV sealant, lube-points to pay attention to , etc. Can anyone fill that gap - or point to a video? thanks!
Not sure if this video would be more helpful for you. If you check out this link below it should be able to give you a general idea on that repair. Please let us know if it is what you are looking for.
ruclips.net/video/HOl2e9-bBGk/видео.html
my washer does not seem to have the plastic spline insert there is a metal washer that spins and what seems like metal under it
Isn't that plastic 'Spline Insert" (at 12:51) supposed to go under the large nut, to act as a kind of 'lock washer' ? Otherwise, I don't understand its purpose? The one I removed was under the nut.
Yes, the spline insert goes into place before the hub nut. This video got it wrong. BUT only there, the rest is spot on.
You got it!👍🍺
im at this part , and the hub nut isnt turning at all. since this video is incorrect how DO i turn the nut? i tried vice gripping the disc under the tub but after hammering the pipe wrench, the damn grips just come off. i am stuck at this part and the video is a mistake on it
@@MrStress I used a 38 mm socket on an impact and it came right off.
@@flyurway my solution that worked better was just getting a new washer 🙂
How to change the bearing of the Amana LW6501w2 washing machine?
It looks like we don't have a video for that, but we offer free technical advice and diagnosis on things that aren't covered in our videos, so we'll be glad to advise you on that repair. We’re available 7 days a week at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/
He didn't fix the root cause of the leak, so the new bearing is just going to get wet again. If you pause it at the 12:00 minute mark you can see that there is some separation occurring between the seal and the orange-colored sealant. He should have removed the old sealant and re-sealed the tub to the seal. Black or orange automotive RTV sealant will work for this. It would have been better to just use a new seal (part number WP40015401) since the washer was already torn apart. if you pause at the 5:35 mark the spline insert magically appears out of nowhere on to the top of the nut. It should go under the nut as others have mentioned. Also, I could not lower the shaft from bearing as shown at the 8:08 mark because the shaft was fused tight to the inner race of the bearing. I had to tear out the upper bearing seal and pound out the lower bearing seal and rusty ball bearings with a hammer and screwdriver to get the shaft to drop. I then had to heat up the inner bearing race that was stuck on the shaft with a propane torch and turn it loose with a pipe wrench.
If there is something we can help you with please let us know.
do we need a sealant around the seal?
No, no sealant, the upper seal (black hat-shaped rubber item that fits into the white plastic "bell", all of which you are disassembling in this procedure) is a stretch fit over the metal transmission hub and splined spindle. Clean off any corrosion on the mating surfaces and wipe on a little petroleum jelly or dish detergent to ease the slip assembly. You're not removing the hard lower seal in the procedure, so it stays assembled. There are these two seals, upper and lower, on the assembly, that keep water from leaking out the spinning basket and agitator spindle. If you have leaks, it is either one or both of those seals, the outer tub cracked, or the plumbing hoses and clamps. And if the bearing failed as is being replaced here, it is likely due to leak(s) (perhaps too slight to notice) getting water into the bearing and starting corrosion and bearing failure.
@@RichardKinch thanks, I got mine done already. I replaced the hub and the bottom seal with the sealant that comes with the kit. Thanks for posting the videos and answering our questions on here.
Amana/speed queen
Yes, Amana badge and cabinet 3:29 on a Speed Queen classic commercial machine inside.
Got spline now can't get hub off any hint
Use gear puller.
No es tan facil. Te quiero ver con una maquina usada de verdad. jaja
I pulled the agitator with everything I got and can't pull it out , whats next ?
If you need additional help with the repair outside of what's demonstrated in the video, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
One trick is to wedge a bicycle inner tube all around and under the agitator flare, between the agitator and stainless inner basket, and inflate the tube to a few psi pressure. Will pry it loose with no effort!
One exploded bike tube later, still on 😤
Why is this video tagged for KitchenAid? All KitchenAid topload washers were rebadged Whirlpool direct-drives. The design is completely different, none have a bearing like this.
This machine is actually the classic Speed Queen product, which was over the years badged with the other brand names.