'76 Kawasaki KZ900 electrical, wiring harness install - Video #1
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2023
- Installing a new aftermarket wiring harness in the KZ900-A4. There was no harness so we're putting one in fresh. Wiring, connections, tips, tricks, testing.
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This was a massive help for me. Installing a new harnes on my kz1000 and there are so many loose ends which i had no idea where goes. THANK YOU SO MUCH
Thanks. Sorry for delay. I don’t often get a chance to scan comments.
Old Kaws never die💀😎
Ahhh, you’re really bringing the memories back for me now Tom, because the first ‘big’ road bike that I owned was a beautiful dark Emerald Green 1973 ‘Kwaka’ Z-900, with lots of chrome on it, just exactly like the ‘76 one, that you’ve got in this video. God, that thing had some ‘grunt’ whenever you gave her the ‘big-twist’ and as I went straight from, previously, riding a Kawasaki 175 2-Stroke Trail Bike, straight up to riding the Z-900, it was certainly enough to scare myself sh**less, on it, more times, than I now care to admit to, and yes, the original Muffler System was indeed, a Four, into Four, big, long bright shiny chrome trumpets, on the back end. A very impressive sight.
And yes, I agree Tom, trying to fault find electrical problems on bikes are always a bit of a challenge because you never know what the previous owner might have done, with regards to them making ‘modifications’ to the original wiring, which is why, having access to a good quality colour coded wiring diagram is an essential, if you want to avoid wasting hours of your life, only to discover too late, that someone before you has ‘butchered’ the original wiring.
And as well, as using a digital multimeter, I always keep an old ‘Analogue’ ie, ‘moving-coil’ style multimeter close by handy, as well, because the problem with a lot of the digital multimeters is that their auto-ranging refresh rate makes them very hard to read, if you connect them to any source of voltage or current that is rapidly varying, while you are trying to work out just what voltage, or current, they are displaying, while, the digits being displayed on them, are constantly and rapidly changing.
That’s when I drag out the old moving-coil meter which, because of the mechanical inertia involved, of the moving-coil, and the meter needle, provides a ‘much easier to read average’ voltage or current display.
A LOT, of electrical problems on bikes are simply caused by ‘bad connections’ where a Wiring Terminal, under a screw head, or a Connector, inside a Plug, has become corroded, due to moisture ingress, and once that happens in the presence of an electrical current, you get a Galvanic reaction occurring between the two dissimilar metals involved, which then causes corrosion, and a resulting, ‘high-resistance’ joint.
That’s why I, always give all, of the electrical connectors on any bike I work on a good squirt of LanoTec, before I reassemble them, which then keeps them waterproof and moisture-free, from then onwards.
And for dealing with any corrosion on connectors that you simply cannot easily replace, and simply have to make do with, I recommend giving them a squirt of DeOxit, which although a bit expensive, to use, seems to work pretty well, at overcoming corrosion, in switches and connectors, while they are still situ.
Keep up your good work with your always interesting videos. 😉👍
Great explanation on the wiring. You may want to check the left handle bar clamp it looks loose. Keep the videos coming.
Enjoyed the video Tom. RIDE SAFE OUT THERE!
loom goes from block panel inside frame between frame and airbox over the top of airbox under crossbar then up to front on the lefthand side,try and fit side panel and you will see the problem.nice bike dont like the fake engine fins.good luck it is a tight fit.johnnys vintage motorcycle lots of vids easy to stuff like that
Side panel fits fine. I tried that first thing. Doesn't come close to interfering with the cover. There is zero room between the airbox and frame, just like on the KZ1000's where the loom goes outside the frame. I was only able to go inboard on the Z1-R because of the pods and no airbox. Yea, I wanted to have the loom go inside, but again, there is zero space. Thanks.
Great video thanks. I’m doing the wiring on a KZ1000 right now which looks the same. One question- I’m struggling to identify what that twin connector for the brown wire with silver dashes is for in the headlight. You touched it a couple of times but didn’t mention it. Any tips please 🙏
I believe on a 900 that’s for a turn signal beeper. An audible piezo type buzzer/beeper. Being this is an early 1000 probably the same.
I've never purchased a wiring harness that fit correctly for any bike, any time, any manufacturer, despite providing the seller the VIN.
Which is why I always check even when the subordinate parts come in the same kit.
I’m always amused, and amazed, at just how, ‘tight-arsed’ the makers of wiring looms are, with the always, non-existent, amount of ‘spare’ wire length, that they always, ‘don’t provide’ when manufacturing their looms. Anyone would think that they were making all of their looms out of wires made from ‘solid gold’..! 🙄
@@wa7215 Blame Roger Smith (General Motors) in the 70's who basically ruined that company in my opinion. If he could save 3 cents by cheapening out on a component, he would. Thus, that cheapskate business model was cemented into our culture.
Definitely NOT original. You can see the front master cylinder has been replaced with a repro unit, the instrument cover lowers are repro, the exhaust is Kerker etc. I'm guessing the gauges aren't original either and the paint looks too good to be original.
That said, it should be a nice bike once it's back together.
Oh yea I knew that, if I said original like all old or NOS parts that was in error. Many of these older bikes have reproduction parts due to availability.