I’d rather have someone who doesn’t talk and show me every step of the job, then someone who talks about every step of the job, but only shows me one part of it. Great video for a aspiring Bikefarmer
I have a similar hub I just serviced recently (Deore M525A), the bearings and race is smooth as glass even after putting thousands of km in it. These hubs are not the best, but they are reliable. 🐐
Although I do not like bearings and cones, you did something I never thought of. That is backing off the cone to the lock nut to compensate for the over tightening of the lock nut.
@@dmosboss758 I need to re-do my hub. I think it is too loose now and my gears are slipping under high torque. How do I know what level of tightness is optimal?
When checking for play I like to push on the opposite side to maximise play. I do like to keep a little play at the end too ! Play that disappears once the wheel is tightened in the frame.
@@NiceBikeService Something else came to mind. If a little play is kept, it is good practice to check that the play is indeed gone when the wheel is tightened in the frame. This is easily done by checking the wheel doesn't "play" between the frame.
Gutes Video ! Ich habe mir vor paar Monaten ein neues HR gekauft. Nase voll von losen Kugeln, Fett und vielen Bauteilen. DT SWISS 350 Hybride. Wir sollten mehr europäische Produkte an unseren Bike's bevorzugen.
I went looking for this, because I am trying to put my rear rim parts like this back in the correct order. The rim seems to be mostly the same with some small differences. Like even the washer is much thicker on mine.
Kiedyś się bawiłem tak jak tuż tymi pseudo piastami,od dobrych kilku lat jeżdżę tyłka na piastach z łożyskami maszynowymi,są praktycznie wieczne a jak chcesz powiecmy rozebrać tylna piastę to można to zrobić jedna reką,polecam piasty novateca bez żadnego serwisu zrobiłem na takiej piaście 30 tys km a jak ja rozebrałem to wyglądała jak nowa,kulki na złom:)
Tylko część piast na maszynach jest rozbieralna bez narzędzi. Te piasty, ogólnie, nie są wieczne. Piasty eksploatowane cały rok, w każdych warunkach, zwyczaj żywotność łożysk to kilka tysięcy km. Serwisowałem tysiące tych piast. Te które jeżdżą bez syfu - mogą mieć dłuższe przebiegi bez serwisu.
Valeu mano agora minha bike chega na velocidade da luz, fiu pedalando ate marte e voltei em 10 minutos brabo demais seu tuotorial agora posso apostar minha casa no racha usando minha bike contra um lamborguini que ganho fácil💪💪🙏🙏
I used to service my hubs like shown. But then an engineer pointed out that the hardness of the balls is greater than the hardness of the hub. So the surfaces of the hub will wear away before the balls do. Making ball replacement pointless. But it's still worth cleaning and greasing.
Hardness has little to do with pitting from rust. The cup and cone degrade sure. Its incredible how well a newly greased hub rides with new rust free ballls
I've been doing this for years. Not even had a slightest issue with hubs wearing out. Just make sure you use . Ntn balls. Chinese balls will fuck up the hub
One of the best videos on cup and cone bearing I have seen. Not very clear on how to start tightening it all back again? Also missing torque. Shimano manuals always specify the torque for cup and cone which if I remember right is between 15-20Nm and for the cassette it's 40Nm which is also stamped on the nut unlike the cup and cone nuts. Do you tighten on one side first, then adjust from the other side? do you have to have an equal amount of threads sticking out on both sides etc.?
Thank you for your comment. Usually, an experienced mechanic screws parts by feel. The cone with the nut is first tightened, and then the length of the threaded tail can be adjusted
That cone was well.past it did you replace them. Also you seem a bit tight with the amount of grease personally I say a little more grease to help less friction and wear and smooth rotation of the axel.
As an owner of a small wheeled, heavy rolling Brompton I need all the help I can get! I hope to be able to replace mine with ceramic ball sets, as finished units, as in my head set!
Very good video, I liked and subscribed. When I service hub I usually replace all the balls and cones if needed (if they have pits or races). And yes they are pain in the ass to set up correctly bearing to rotate peoperly.
De todos os vídeos que assisti, este é o mais didático, objetivo e eficiente. Parabéns e obrigado. Se possível, gostaria de saber que líquido de limpeza vc utiliza no spray.
I loved the video. If you let me ask a peculiar question. Is that possible to use this kind green grease for do maintenance on MTB shocks? At least lub the piston stroke? Another question, What do you use for spray cleaning the dirt from the rims? Thnx
Thank you for your comment. If you have a budget fork like RST or SUNTOUR, you can use such a lubricant, if you have something higher level like FOX or RockShox, then it is better to use the original lubricants recommended by the manufacturer. We use isopropanol in the sprayer
Just got done looking after my *own* rear hub…. Shimano uses a lighter grade of grease (compared to, say, Mobil-1 grease) and they tend to put a modest amount in. Used Mobil-28 aircraft grease, because it was in the Dualco grease gun, and I had it for lubing the BBS-HD motor… Bike seems to roll noticeably freer compared to before servicing.
I've had bikes that were decades old and never had any maintenance. You know what I've never had to do to make a bike faster? This. As long as the bearings are good bearings, they last a long, long time. And as long as they have the right lubricant, they'll keep moving right. The most I've had to do is make sure the chain is lubed and the derailleurs work. The wheel grinds a bit because it's been sitting? Lube it. I've had scooter wheels that were almost completely seized because the bearings rusted. I lubed them up and started moving the wheels. After a few minutes of rolling the wheels back and forth, they spin like they're brand new.
According to what a mechanic told me the gentleman in the vidio used entirely too much grease. Grease adds friction. Only a thin film of grease is necessasary in the packing of bicycle bearings. You only use enough to coat the working surface of the bearings. Anything else is waste of grease. If you crud the race up with grease just to keep the bearings from falling out your adding friction and wasting product. I persinally dont see any improvement in speed of his bicycle wheel. Just a whisp of grease is all that is needed. Anything else only attracts dust and dirt.hope this helps. If you can always use new balls as they become egg shaped with normal use. A driill bit gauge can sort larger bearings and give a guide as too which bearings are worn as they will pop right through if unusually worn. I also noticed he used no solvent on the bearings. You must clean the bearings and dry them in a correct repack. Break cleaning fluid does a nice job of removing crud from bearings. Remember that it is a carcinogen and wear gloves and use out doors. Happy trails!
The most important point for all comments contributors here to remember is that the quality of the hub itself , less bearings is the primary limiting factor to energy efficiency gains . Also , grease chemistry and viscosity characteristics . The title of this video is only partly correct when it comes to practice and outcomes .
Podziwiam Pana pasję, zaangażowanie i miłość do rowerów:) z przyjemnością oglądam filmy pomimo, że sam nie jeżdżę na rowerze (ale umiem ;)) wszystko jest wytłumaczone i pokazane tak, że każdy jest w stanie zrozumieć. Mam pytanie na które nie znalazłem odpowiedzi w necie.. Jakiś czas temu serwisowałem swój stary rower szosowy Peugeot. Miałem problem w doborze ilości śrutów. Włożyłem z powrotem tyle ile wyciągnąłem i okazało się, że jest jeszcze miejsce. Dołożyłem taki sam rozmiar i albo było o 1 za dużo albo zostawało miejsce i nie zmieścił się już żaden śrut.. Czy to ma jakiś wpływ na płynność pracy piast? Czy można zostawić troche wolnego miejsca czy zmienić rozmiar śrutów na większy tak aby wypełnić lukę? Po złożeniu miałem wrażenie że koła nie kręcą się płynnie.. Pozdrawiam
Q: What is the transparent green "grease". I'm getting ready to do this. I have plain (NLGI#2) "marine" grade grease handy. Also what is the cleaning spray? I have reagent grade 100% isop. alcohol with Simple Green that quickly drgreases a cassette in about a 30 minute soak. I then WD40 the cassette (as water repellent.) Then the only lube it gets is from the chain. Please advise.
Hello friend! We use Divinol thick calcium grease for lubrication, your marine oil will also work. We use isopropanol in the spray, the same as yours. The cassette does not need to be lubricated with anything, WD 40 will evaporate quickly at best, and at worst, its droplets from the spray will get on the brakes and they will start whistling and squeaking.
@@NiceBikeService The WD-40 is (was) applied and wiped BEFORE putting it back on the wheel. Degreasing with alcohol and Simple Green leaves the alloy completely unprotected, so dry it squeaks when you rub it like a washed clean food dish. I have seen pitted alloy components from water damage. If WD-40 evaporates and I also only want lubrication coming from the clean chain lube, what do you recommend for repelling water on dry components- if anything at all? Also, thanks, I do recommend "marine" grease on the seat tube or when tightening components. I first saw this when someone was pressing in a sealed wheel bearing. That grease is made to be used on wet conditions on boats, perfect for water splashed hubs and bottom brackets, etc. Sealed bearings usually get replaced from water damage almost as much as when just wearing out.
@@fmphotooffice5513 Je pense que tu t'embêtes trop, ce qui fait toute la différence est la régularité des entretiens suivant l'utilisation, peu importe la "qualité" de la graisse utilisée, il y a bien des graisses spécifiques pour tout usage mais c'est se prendre la tête pour rien, il faut s'établir un carnet d'entretien suivant sa propre utilisation en prenant en compte son environnement, si tu roules dans la terre ou proche de la mer induira forcément une maintenance plus assidue que de faire de la ville. Le WD-40 est un bon produit pour le quotidien, ça chasse l'humidité et protège les pièces de la corrosion après une balade pluvieuse mais ça en fait pas une bonne maintenance, c'est plus une protection à court thermes. Car ce qui crée les dommages est la poussière qui s'accumule et ça peu importe la graisse...
You have it down to a nice flow And I think you used just the right amount of grease , my first response was , hey , use more grease , but then I remembered the title of your video. And I think that is as good as you can get from entry to model range cassette hubs . Great video 👍😊
Pytanie do Autora filmu: jakiej cieczy używasz do odtłuszczania powierzchni? (chodzi mi o ten płyn w małym spryskiwaczu). Fajny jest ten kanał. Pozdrowienia. 👍
I have this exact wheel and what i liked about it was how dead quiet the shimano hf-rm30 has been for its 15 years of service without any maintenance. That said, i can no longer pedal, the wheel does not engage. I think the hub is broken and now i am stuck. I cant find a replacement as its no longer sold and even if i did i would have to remake the wheel. I can find new different wheels but they are not usually quiet. I will have to buy many tools to even take the gears out. Would love to do it myself since the tools will likely cost me less than the service but i dont know what it is that made this hub so quiet and i cant tell how to find a quiet one.
Thank you for your comment. I also like the quiet freehubs of the Shimano, when you ride quietly and smoothly. If the wheel doesn't engage when pedalling, it's a problem with the freehub. Try to open it and service it. There are videos on our channel. There is also a small chance to find the freehub body separately from the hub and replace it. It's important to look for the right hub for your model
@@NiceBikeService After checking all wheels freehubs and whatnot for weeks, i was ready to place an order for a replacement and ready to weave it into my wheel. I was not sure i wanted it because i could not find out if they would be quiet or not. While at it i decided to pick on some more stuff that i might need. Then as i was doing research on my last item, oil, wondering which one is the best i found out that you need a runny oil in freehubs so they do not seize - at that moment i had this idea that perhaps its not broken but merely seized, after all it took months of randomly skipping until it finally pedaled completely disconnected and i have done zero maintenance in 15 years! Found some other video showing that you can unseize it by spraying WD40 into the hub, even without disassembly. I found a contact cleaner and an old can of WD40 which does not even spray anymore and dripped it there and cleaned what i could without any hardware and turned and turned and eventually it clicked and started to work! Half an hour later i had a working bike again and needed no money to do it! I sprayed some silicon oil i had into it and its been fine so far. The big research about all sorts of tools ive done made me also: Learn to center my wheel, Fix and adjust my breaks thanks to no longer wobbly wheels, Adjust and fix my gearshift (finally i can use them again) and realized i have a really worn chain thanks to it. (they say 1% stretch is bad, i have like 2) My cassette surprisingly doesn't look worn but the new chain will tell once installed. So in the end i decided to get a bunch of tools instead of a hub and spent the money regardless and i will clean and lube the freehub properly. I still have not found out what makes my (very cheap) hub quiet. Listening to bikes around me i seem to have the quietest one around and its not even maintained properly. It has zero sound when i don't pedal and the bike is going and only minimal sound when i pedal backwards. It makes me worried i will never be able to change my bike in the future because i just cant find anything like it or even a way to tell it apart before buying. I really love a quiet ride.
In this wheel, the freehub was not removed, as the balls are on top of it. To remove the freehub itself, you need a 10 mm hex wrench, and to open it, you need the Freehub Body Removal Tool. There is a separate video on this topic on our channel
As our experience has shown, if the wheel spins well and there is no play, there is no need to open the hub and do anything else. The grease does not need to be changed for prevention.
Części zamienne, takie jak te na filmie, można łatwo znaleźć w sklepach internetowych lub na chińskich targowiskach, w przypadku starszych rowerów trudniej jest coś znaleźć
We put in the same balls as the ones installed by the manufacturer. Usually, the balls in the front hub are smaller, maybe it was the front hub in that video
Hello. At minute 06:02 you add a metal plate or whatever it's called. What is it called exactly? How do I know which one I need? I have the WH-R501 hub and need this part.
what's the name of the part removed at about minute 4:10 ? do you know where I can find it? I think mine was damaged (bent) when I tried to removed it. What is it actually good for, just protection?
9:13 when you finally tighten it, what if it spins the axle and exterior nut together ? The inner nut would become loose from ball bearings. Does it work if I put thread lock on inner nuts and grease on outer nuts when tightening them ? 🤔
First, you press the nut firmly onto the cone and then slowly twist them together until they are ball-shaped, so the bushing does not come loose when you ride. A thread locker is not necessary, as it will interfere with the adjustment of the bushing in the future
Für den täglichen Gebrauch gibt es keinen besonderen Bedarf an Industrielagern, und ich glaube nicht, dass Sie beim Fahren einen großen Unterschied bemerken werden.
@@NiceBikeService Aber doch wichtig ,das man die Kugeln des Lagers nicht auf der Nabe hat , sondern im Rahmen . Wenn sich die Nabe abnutzt , ist das Lauf des Rades gefährdet.
Cassette puller, cassette puller clamp, 15-17 mm flat spanners (depending on the bushing), side blades, telescopic magnets, pliers, grease syringe, that's about it
The rear bushing uses 6.35 mm or 1/4 inch. We didn't work with ceramic ones, as I think it's an overpayment and a reason to bother. It is better to find high-quality metal balls, for example, from Shimano
These are different covers, one for the freehub and the other for the hub. Just remember or take a picture of the position of the cover on your bike. Good luck!
Mines a 6 speed freewheel MF-TZ06. I’ve just bought a new old stock replacement which I’m about to fit. I’ve had it apart a few times over the years so no way of knowing for sure how it’s supposed to go together! Thanks for the insight though.
I'll do a speed pack 50/50 blend 50% Phil Wood grease / 50% Semi chrome, replace ball bearings with high quality grade #25 chromium bearings, ride the wheel set for around 200 to 300 miles, this will polish up the bearing races nicely, then redo the process once again but then I'll be using white lithium grease because the Phil grease with heavy use will be flowing out of the hubs like crazy, and with no SEMI chrome, straight White lithium grease, not sure how much faster it will make your bicycle, for sure this process will make your wheels feel a lot smoother.
Love your video but what I don't understand is why bike manufacturers don't just do away with the hubs and cones and just install cartridge bearings on all bicycles. They last longer and replacing bearing cartridges are much better.
If a cartridge bearing experiences a sharp axial impact , the bearing races distort and notchiness starts to show when the inner sleeve is rotated , even with high quality bearings . This is common in even high end pedals . I have seen this on DT , SYNCROS , FUNN , RACEFACE , HADLEY , NUKEPROOF AND A FEW OTHERS .
In the budget segment, it is better to take hubs with cones and balls, they can be adjusted, tightened and they will still work. Cheap hubs with cartridge bearings quickly destroy the bearing seat and cannot be repaired.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
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🙏 share this video with your friends
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❓ ask your questions
I don't have any friends. At least that would care about bikes. But I like the channel.
the best part about his video was you breathing into my ears
Thank you for sharing... question, is that lithium grease you used for the bearing lubrication?
I’d rather have someone who doesn’t talk and show me every step of the job, then someone who talks about every step of the job, but only shows me one part of it.
Great video for a aspiring Bikefarmer
Thank you for your comment! 😍
if you liked this video,
share this video with your friends ❤️
it will help the development of the channel! 📈
@@NiceBikeService Will do !
😻
and without background music.
I have a similar hub I just serviced recently (Deore M525A), the bearings and race is smooth as glass even after putting thousands of km in it. These hubs are not the best, but they are reliable. 🐐
Yes, they are very high quality👍
Although I do not like bearings and cones, you did something I never thought of. That is backing off the cone to the lock nut to compensate for the over tightening of the lock nut.
that's a must to ensure it rolls free
Thank you for your comment. It also allows you to adjust the wheel tightness in the future without disassembling the entire wheel
@@dmosboss758 I need to re-do my hub. I think it is too loose now and my gears are slipping under high torque. How do I know what level of tightness is optimal?
Best tutorial out here regarding cone and cup bearing service!
Thank you for your comment! 😍
if you liked this video,
share this video with your friends ❤️
it will help the development of the channel! 📈
bardzo fajny film. wszystko prosto i dobrze pokazane, bez komentarza i zbędnej muzyki. super!
Sem música ficamos melhor no assunto. Gostei também.
Чудова робота, дякую за підказку з мастилом. Дівінол справді хороше мастило, 👍
чем оно хорошее ? раскрученое фуфло которое вытекает в жару и не работает даже в нулевую температуру
Good basic service, but you have a way to go. When adjusting the cone tension, put the cassette side locknut in a vice to hold the axle still.
Brawo za warsztat i smar w strzykawce!
When checking for play I like to push on the opposite side to maximise play.
I do like to keep a little play at the end too ! Play that disappears once the wheel is tightened in the frame.
That's right. Thanks for the comment😊
@@NiceBikeService Something else came to mind. If a little play is kept, it is good practice to check that the play is indeed gone when the wheel is tightened in the frame. This is easily done by checking the wheel doesn't "play" between the frame.
very very interesting. A curiosity of mine: why didn't you do the maintenance of internal bearings of the freehub budy?
Thank you for your feedback. There is a separate video on our channel with freehub service.
Gutes Video !
Ich habe mir vor paar Monaten ein neues HR gekauft. Nase voll von losen Kugeln, Fett und vielen Bauteilen. DT SWISS 350 Hybride.
Wir sollten mehr europäische Produkte an unseren Bike's bevorzugen.
That tool at 1:05 is great. I’ll have make one up from an old chain and knife.
Verdiğiniz bu güzel detaylı bilgiler için teşekkür ederim.
I went looking for this, because I am trying to put my rear rim parts like this back in the correct order. The rim seems to be mostly the same with some small differences. Like even the washer is much thicker on mine.
glad to be of service! thanks for your feedback 😘
Szybko i czytelnie bez zbednego pitolenia sub leci od razu
Kiedyś się bawiłem tak jak tuż tymi pseudo piastami,od dobrych kilku lat jeżdżę tyłka na piastach z łożyskami maszynowymi,są praktycznie wieczne a jak chcesz powiecmy rozebrać tylna piastę to można to zrobić jedna reką,polecam piasty novateca bez żadnego serwisu zrobiłem na takiej piaście 30 tys km a jak ja rozebrałem to wyglądała jak nowa,kulki na złom:)
ciekawy komentarz 👍
Tylko część piast na maszynach jest rozbieralna bez narzędzi.
Te piasty, ogólnie, nie są wieczne. Piasty eksploatowane cały rok, w każdych warunkach, zwyczaj żywotność łożysk to kilka tysięcy km. Serwisowałem tysiące tych piast. Te które jeżdżą bez syfu - mogą mieć dłuższe przebiegi bez serwisu.
Valeu mano agora minha bike chega na velocidade da luz, fiu pedalando ate marte e voltei em 10 minutos brabo demais seu tuotorial agora posso apostar minha casa no racha usando minha bike contra um lamborguini que ganho fácil💪💪🙏🙏
I used to service my hubs like shown. But then an engineer pointed out that the hardness of the balls is greater than the hardness of the hub. So the surfaces of the hub will wear away before the balls do. Making ball replacement pointless. But it's still worth cleaning and greasing.
Hardness has little to do with pitting from rust. The cup and cone degrade sure. Its incredible how well a newly greased hub rides with new rust free ballls
@@MrJob91 That's what she said!
I've been doing this for years. Not even had a slightest issue with hubs wearing out. Just make sure you use . Ntn balls. Chinese balls will fuck up the hub
@@colecoleman1499 Ask a METALLURGIST .
@@colecoleman1499 I use SKF or NITTO , but from Japanese made batches.
One of the best videos on cup and cone bearing I have seen. Not very clear on how to start tightening it all back again? Also missing torque. Shimano manuals always specify the torque for cup and cone which if I remember right is between 15-20Nm and for the cassette it's 40Nm which is also stamped on the nut unlike the cup and cone nuts. Do you tighten on one side first, then adjust from the other side? do you have to have an equal amount of threads sticking out on both sides etc.?
Thank you for your comment. Usually, an experienced mechanic screws parts by feel. The cone with the nut is first tightened, and then the length of the threaded tail can be adjusted
Excellent greetings from Cali Colombia South America
Perawatan Hub Belakang Sepeda, makasih om tip/ cara nya
terima kasih atas komentar Anda! 😘
That cone was well.past it did you replace them. Also you seem a bit tight with the amount of grease personally I say a little more grease to help less friction and wear and smooth rotation of the axel.
다른 언어권의 시청자들이 많이 들어오는거 보니, 흔한 영상은 아니네요..ㅋ 많은 도움이 되었습니다. 비록 실력이 일천해서 시도해볼 엄두는 안나지만...ㅋ
친절한 피드백에 감사드립니다.
Divinol Fett Top of 2003 Is this what you use to lubricate bearings?
yeas)
Nice video..thx I like the no talk...
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support the channel financially 💰🙏.
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As an owner of a small wheeled, heavy rolling Brompton I need all the help I can get! I hope to be able to replace mine with ceramic ball sets, as finished units, as in my head set!
I wish you good luck with your service!!!
Very good video, I liked and subscribed.
When I service hub I usually replace all the balls and cones if needed (if they have pits or races). And yes they are pain in the ass to set up correctly bearing to rotate peoperly.
De todos os vídeos que assisti, este é o mais didático, objetivo e eficiente. Parabéns e obrigado.
Se possível, gostaria de saber que líquido de limpeza vc utiliza no spray.
Sehr gutes Video 👍👍👍👍
❤️😺
I loved the video. If you let me ask a peculiar question. Is that possible to use this kind green grease for do maintenance on MTB shocks? At least lub the piston stroke? Another question, What do you use for spray cleaning the dirt from the rims? Thnx
Thank you for your comment. If you have a budget fork like RST or SUNTOUR, you can use such a lubricant, if you have something higher level like FOX or RockShox, then it is better to use the original lubricants recommended by the manufacturer. We use isopropanol in the sprayer
Brabo, só me falta coragem de desmontar minha bike novinha kkkkk
Desejamos-lhe o maior sucesso!
Hi, what type of Grease & steelballs you have used?
We use Divinol calcium grease and 6mm Shimano balls
@@NiceBikeService Are they actually 6mm metric or is that just shorthand for 1/4 inch (6.25mm)? Great video, by the way. I like the no-talk approach.
Just got done looking after my *own* rear hub….
Shimano uses a lighter grade of grease (compared to, say, Mobil-1 grease) and they tend to put a modest amount in.
Used Mobil-28 aircraft grease, because it was in the Dualco grease gun, and I had it for lubing the BBS-HD motor…
Bike seems to roll noticeably freer compared to before servicing.
I've had bikes that were decades old and never had any maintenance. You know what I've never had to do to make a bike faster? This. As long as the bearings are good bearings, they last a long, long time. And as long as they have the right lubricant, they'll keep moving right. The most I've had to do is make sure the chain is lubed and the derailleurs work. The wheel grinds a bit because it's been sitting? Lube it. I've had scooter wheels that were almost completely seized because the bearings rusted. I lubed them up and started moving the wheels. After a few minutes of rolling the wheels back and forth, they spin like they're brand new.
What is the best grease to use for bearings?
There are many, we use thick calcium grease Divinol
This makes it really easy, thanks bro
glad to be of service! thanks for your feedback 😘
According to what a mechanic told me the gentleman in the vidio used entirely too much grease. Grease adds friction. Only a thin film of grease is necessasary in the packing of bicycle bearings. You only use enough to coat the working surface of the bearings. Anything else is waste of grease. If you crud the race up with grease just to keep the bearings from falling out your adding friction and wasting product. I persinally dont see any improvement in speed of his bicycle wheel. Just a whisp of grease is all that is needed. Anything else only attracts dust and dirt.hope this helps. If you can always use new balls as they become egg shaped with normal use. A driill bit gauge can sort larger bearings and give a guide as too which bearings are worn as they will pop right through if unusually worn. I also noticed he used no solvent on the bearings. You must clean the bearings and dry them in a correct repack. Break cleaning fluid does a nice job of removing crud from bearings. Remember that it is a carcinogen and wear gloves and use out doors. Happy trails!
Thank you for such an extensive and useful comment. I will take it into consideration. Happy riding and repairing!
How do you know when the bearing balls need to be replaced? Is it when they are not as silver anymore?
Specks and dimples will be visible on the bearing balls, and the ball may not be perfectly spherical
Excelente video, felicidades.
Que grasa es la que usas?
Gracias por sus comentarios. Como lubricante, utilizamos grasa gruesa de calcio Divinol
What spray are you using to clean the grease?
isopropanol in the sprayer
The most important point for all comments contributors here to remember is that the quality of the hub itself , less bearings is the primary limiting factor to energy efficiency gains . Also , grease chemistry and viscosity characteristics . The title of this video is only partly correct when it comes to practice and outcomes .
what's the best grease, i usually throw Walmarts high temp lucas grease on mine ..
@@hvhjvfgjknjbuy park tool ppl 1 multi purpose, or Shimano high performance grease also multipurpose
I jedna z bieżni do wymiany za jakiś czas. CIężko było nałożyć na nią smar? :)
zazwyczaj nie mają na sobie smaru.
Que tipo de grasa lubricante utilizaste para los rodamientos?
Podziwiam Pana pasję, zaangażowanie i miłość do rowerów:) z przyjemnością oglądam filmy pomimo, że sam nie jeżdżę na rowerze (ale umiem ;)) wszystko jest wytłumaczone i pokazane tak, że każdy jest w stanie zrozumieć. Mam pytanie na które nie znalazłem odpowiedzi w necie.. Jakiś czas temu serwisowałem swój stary rower szosowy Peugeot. Miałem problem w doborze ilości śrutów. Włożyłem z powrotem tyle ile wyciągnąłem i okazało się, że jest jeszcze miejsce. Dołożyłem taki sam rozmiar i albo było o 1 za dużo albo zostawało miejsce i nie zmieścił się już żaden śrut.. Czy to ma jakiś wpływ na płynność pracy piast? Czy można zostawić troche wolnego miejsca czy zmienić rozmiar śrutów na większy tak aby wypełnić lukę? Po złożeniu miałem wrażenie że koła nie kręcą się płynnie.. Pozdrawiam
I wish I could understand Polish.
O.P. needs some Pivo, perhaps? A sip or three?
Всегда должно быть место под один свободный шарик. До отказа забивать шариками нельзя.
Chapeau bas l'artiste !
I was wondering what is the make and model for this bike? Because, I am actually curious.
Most likely a Trek, but I can't tell you the model, as this bike was in our workshop almost a year ago
@@NiceBikeService oh, okay thank you
❣️
Looking Professional.
glad to be of service! thanks for your feedback 😘
Q: What is the transparent green "grease". I'm getting ready to do this. I have plain (NLGI#2) "marine" grade grease handy. Also what is the cleaning spray? I have reagent grade 100% isop. alcohol with Simple Green that quickly drgreases a cassette in about a 30 minute soak. I then WD40 the cassette (as water repellent.) Then the only lube it gets is from the chain. Please advise.
Hello friend! We use Divinol thick calcium grease for lubrication, your marine oil will also work. We use isopropanol in the spray, the same as yours. The cassette does not need to be lubricated with anything, WD 40 will evaporate quickly at best, and at worst, its droplets from the spray will get on the brakes and they will start whistling and squeaking.
@@NiceBikeService The WD-40 is (was) applied and wiped BEFORE putting it back on the wheel. Degreasing with alcohol and Simple Green leaves the alloy completely unprotected, so dry it squeaks when you rub it like a washed clean food dish. I have seen pitted alloy components from water damage. If WD-40 evaporates and I also only want lubrication coming from the clean chain lube, what do you recommend for repelling water on dry components- if anything at all? Also, thanks, I do recommend "marine" grease on the seat tube or when tightening components. I first saw this when someone was pressing in a sealed wheel bearing. That grease is made to be used on wet conditions on boats, perfect for water splashed hubs and bottom brackets, etc. Sealed bearings usually get replaced from water damage almost as much as when just wearing out.
@@fmphotooffice5513 Je pense que tu t'embêtes trop, ce qui fait toute la différence est la régularité des entretiens suivant l'utilisation, peu importe la "qualité" de la graisse utilisée, il y a bien des graisses spécifiques pour tout usage mais c'est se prendre la tête pour rien, il faut s'établir un carnet d'entretien suivant sa propre utilisation en prenant en compte son environnement, si tu roules dans la terre ou proche de la mer induira forcément une maintenance plus assidue que de faire de la ville.
Le WD-40 est un bon produit pour le quotidien, ça chasse l'humidité et protège les pièces de la corrosion après une balade pluvieuse mais ça en fait pas une bonne maintenance, c'est plus une protection à court thermes.
Car ce qui crée les dommages est la poussière qui s'accumule et ça peu importe la graisse...
You have it down to a nice flow
And I think you used just the right amount of grease , my first response was , hey , use more grease , but then I remembered the title of your video.
And I think that is as good as you can get from entry to model range cassette hubs .
Great video 👍😊
what are you using to clean with and what is the lube?
Pytanie do Autora filmu: jakiej cieczy używasz do odtłuszczania powierzchni? (chodzi mi o ten płyn w małym spryskiwaczu). Fajny jest ten kanał. Pozdrowienia. 👍
ciecz - izopropyl
dzięki za komentarz!
udostępnij ten film znajomym, pomoże to w rozwoju kanału! 📈😘
Im a fan of red high temp greese.🍻
🚀
I like the motorex
also good !
I have this exact wheel and what i liked about it was how dead quiet the shimano hf-rm30 has been for its 15 years of service without any maintenance.
That said, i can no longer pedal, the wheel does not engage. I think the hub is broken and now i am stuck.
I cant find a replacement as its no longer sold and even if i did i would have to remake the wheel.
I can find new different wheels but they are not usually quiet.
I will have to buy many tools to even take the gears out. Would love to do it myself since the tools will likely cost me less than the service but i dont know what it is that made this hub so quiet and i cant tell how to find a quiet one.
Thank you for your comment. I also like the quiet freehubs of the Shimano, when you ride quietly and smoothly. If the wheel doesn't engage when pedalling, it's a problem with the freehub. Try to open it and service it. There are videos on our channel. There is also a small chance to find the freehub body separately from the hub and replace it. It's important to look for the right hub for your model
@@NiceBikeService After checking all wheels freehubs and whatnot for weeks, i was ready to place an order for a replacement and ready to weave it into my wheel. I was not sure i wanted it because i could not find out if they would be quiet or not.
While at it i decided to pick on some more stuff that i might need.
Then as i was doing research on my last item, oil, wondering which one is the best i found out that you need a runny oil in freehubs so they do not seize
- at that moment i had this idea that perhaps its not broken but merely seized, after all it took months of randomly skipping until it finally pedaled completely disconnected and i have done zero maintenance in 15 years!
Found some other video showing that you can unseize it by spraying WD40 into the hub, even without disassembly. I found a contact cleaner and an old can of WD40 which does not even spray anymore and dripped it there and cleaned what i could without any hardware and turned and turned and eventually it clicked and started to work!
Half an hour later i had a working bike again and needed no money to do it!
I sprayed some silicon oil i had into it and its been fine so far.
The big research about all sorts of tools ive done made me also:
Learn to center my wheel,
Fix and adjust my breaks thanks to no longer wobbly wheels,
Adjust and fix my gearshift (finally i can use them again) and realized i have a really worn chain thanks to it. (they say 1% stretch is bad, i have like 2)
My cassette surprisingly doesn't look worn but the new chain will tell once installed.
So in the end i decided to get a bunch of tools instead of a hub and spent the money regardless and i will clean and lube the freehub properly.
I still have not found out what makes my (very cheap) hub quiet. Listening to bikes around me i seem to have the quietest one around and its not even maintained properly. It has zero sound when i don't pedal and the bike is going and only minimal sound when i pedal backwards. It makes me worried i will never be able to change my bike in the future because i just cant find anything like it or even a way to tell it apart before buying. I really love a quiet ride.
Is it okay to have some play ? How much play should be there ?
So you weren't going to lube the Axel and threads before install./.?
The axle itself does not move, so there is no need to lubricate it
what's that greenish grease? how long does it last?
thick calcium grease Divinol, holds well, not tested over time as there may be different operating conditions
What happened to removing the freehub body? Memory serves the hollow bolt took a 10 mm allen key to remove
In this wheel, the freehub was not removed, as the balls are on top of it. To remove the freehub itself, you need a 10 mm hex wrench, and to open it, you need the Freehub Body Removal Tool. There is a separate video on this topic on our channel
i have a similar bike but I am not sure of the ball bearing size. which one should i order as replacement?
The most popular balls in the rear wheel are 6.35 mm or 1/4 inch
If you do it like skate bearings, use only one drup off oil, nothing more. Qnd you have a much smoother ride
How do you make sure the balls are just enough pushed with the closing screw?? And also how to make it even on older basic mountain bike. Thanks
First clamp the nut to the cone, and then gradually turn them together with the wrench in the direction of the balls
@@NiceBikeService thanks, I try next time I do it
What type of grease did you used in this video ?
Divinol Fett Top 2003
@@NiceBikeService thank you
使用shimano 专用绿色润滑脂 会更好
I really love this channel
the right tyres will make your bike faster
😸
Only your legs will make your bike faster 🎉
can you change that to a fix bearing?
I think so, but I don't do that.
Useful info but the tyres look good where to get them are 26" available nowadays?
Is oiling required for loose bearing? if yes after how many klm
As our experience has shown, if the wheel spins well and there is no play, there is no need to open the hub and do anything else. The grease does not need to be changed for prevention.
elektrikli bisiklet göbekleri daha akıcı olan göbekler ile değiştirilebilir mi
Bisiklet bir şaryo motoru varsa, herhangi bir burç kullanabilirsiniz, ancak aksi takdirde tasarımdan ödün vermeniz gerekir
🚴 Does anyone know what kind of oil he is using in the video?
For lube, we use thick calcium grease Divinol. But you can use another thick grease.
Czy gdzieś można a jeszcze kupić części to tych starych rowerów tj. stożki, łożyska itp itd?
Części zamienne, takie jak te na filmie, można łatwo znaleźć w sklepach internetowych lub na chińskich targowiskach, w przypadku starszych rowerów trudniej jest coś znaleźć
Awesome 🎉🎉🎉
What is the green yellow thing? The paste?
is a thick calcium grease Divinol
is that applicable to thread type?
For freewheel hubs, everything is very similar or find a video with such a hub on our channel
Is it OK to have bigger bearing balls on one side than the other ? I found this on a pre owned JoyTech with a trough axle.
We put in the same balls as the ones installed by the manufacturer. Usually, the balls in the front hub are smaller, maybe it was the front hub in that video
Hello. At minute 06:02 you add a metal plate or whatever it's called. What is it called exactly? How do I know which one I need? I have the WH-R501 hub and need this part.
what's the name of the part removed at about minute 4:10 ? do you know where I can find it? I think mine was damaged (bent) when I tried to removed it. What is it actually good for, just protection?
Yes, for protection.
It's hard to buy one, every bike hub has a unique one.
Please give me advies: what kind grease you use ? Kindly give Link to buy it. ❤
For lube, we use thick calcium grease Divinol. We bought it in our country, so look for a similar one, any similar one will do.🐱
Jaja..... que Buena, buena técnica para colocar los balines...🙂
gracias por tu comentario 😘
my cassette hub is wobbly, is there another set of cup and cone bearings under the cassette hub housing with the paws?
If you mean the freehub, it has 2 rows of balls and rings inside, no cones. You can find a video on my channel about freehub maintenance
I follow your videos it work. My bike is faster .nice
Estaria bueno un video mostrando el taller. Muy buen video
Any tips how to keep your hands clean while doing this?
You can use thin latex gloves from the drugstore.
Get someone else to do it
😉😉
9:13 when you finally tighten it, what if it spins the axle and exterior nut together ? The inner nut would become loose from ball bearings. Does it work if I put thread lock on inner nuts and grease on outer nuts when tightening them ? 🤔
First, you press the nut firmly onto the cone and then slowly twist them together until they are ball-shaped, so the bushing does not come loose when you ride. A thread locker is not necessary, as it will interfere with the adjustment of the bushing in the future
Is that white lithium grease?
Divinol Fett Top 2003
Ich hatte noch keine Industriekugellager , also mit Kegeln im Rahmen , ist wohl zu empfehlen
Für den täglichen Gebrauch gibt es keinen besonderen Bedarf an Industrielagern, und ich glaube nicht, dass Sie beim Fahren einen großen Unterschied bemerken werden.
@@NiceBikeService Aber doch wichtig ,das man die Kugeln des Lagers nicht auf der Nabe hat , sondern im
Rahmen . Wenn sich die Nabe abnutzt , ist das Lauf des Rades gefährdet.
Can you share the names of all the tools you used and their size.
Cassette puller, cassette puller clamp, 15-17 mm flat spanners (depending on the bushing), side blades, telescopic magnets, pliers, grease syringe, that's about it
@@NiceBikeService thanks for list and now we can try it.
Ótimo trabalho, parabéns!!
Very professional work experience ❤
Hey i have Shimano FH-33 please tell ke what's the size of the cone wrench. (Rear Hub)
Do piasty wrzucasz nowe kulki czy to są oczyszczone stare, a cała operacja polega tylko na wyczyszczeniu, przesmarowaniu i wyregulowaniu piasty?
What's the size of bearings balls? Ever tried ceramic bearing balls?
The rear bushing uses 6.35 mm or 1/4 inch. We didn't work with ceramic ones, as I think it's an overpayment and a reason to bother. It is better to find high-quality metal balls, for example, from Shimano
0:24 I thought the grease cover went in the other way up, as at 0:53. No?
These are different covers, one for the freehub and the other for the hub. Just remember or take a picture of the position of the cover on your bike. Good luck!
Mines a 6 speed freewheel MF-TZ06. I’ve just bought a new old stock replacement which I’m about to fit. I’ve had it apart a few times over the years so no way of knowing for sure how it’s supposed to go together! Thanks for the insight though.
Hi, schickes Video aber was genau soll mein Rad jetzt schneller machen? Das ist Legenteich ein Service was du da machst!!!
Thank you for your comment! 😍
if you liked this video,
share this video with your friends ❤️
it will help the development of the channel! 📈
What was it you were spraying from the little white bottle ?
@@NiceBikeService Thank you.
Takie kulki to nadają się do procy wypłoszyć wronę albo srokę, bo do jazdy szybkiej używa się łożysk ceramicznych.
)))
A kto powiedział, że potrzebujemy zbyt dużej prędkości? ))))))
@@NiceBikeService To nie przyspieszy roweru cokolwiek to znaczy, nie macie bladego pojęcia o fizyce.
Great job Rj 🚴🚴♂️🚴♀️👌
I'll do a speed pack 50/50 blend 50% Phil Wood grease / 50% Semi chrome, replace ball bearings with high quality grade #25 chromium bearings, ride the wheel set for around 200 to 300 miles, this will polish up the bearing races nicely, then redo the process once again but then I'll be using white lithium grease because the Phil grease with heavy use will be flowing out of the hubs like crazy, and with no SEMI chrome, straight White lithium grease, not sure how much faster it will make your bicycle, for sure this process will make your wheels feel a lot smoother.
Thank you for sharing your experience.😽 The headline is more to attract attention😸
Love your video but what I don't understand is why bike manufacturers don't just do away with the hubs and cones and just install cartridge bearings on all bicycles. They last longer and replacing bearing cartridges are much better.
If a cartridge bearing experiences a sharp axial impact , the bearing races distort and notchiness starts to show when the inner sleeve is rotated , even with high quality bearings . This is common in even high end pedals . I have seen this on DT , SYNCROS , FUNN , RACEFACE , HADLEY , NUKEPROOF AND A FEW OTHERS .
@@robertmcfadyen9156 sur mon vtt j'ai remplacé tout par des roulements céramique et c'est nickel
Horse radish onion toast!😡 ball bearings are way better!
In the budget segment, it is better to take hubs with cones and balls, they can be adjusted, tightened and they will still work. Cheap hubs with cartridge bearings quickly destroy the bearing seat and cannot be repaired.
@@MrThorMNFinestcartidge bearings are just basically sealed ball bearings
What is the spray and the green lube
Very good
thank you for your comment! 😘
How can I remove the stuck cone in axle?
Clamp it through the spacer in the tisti, heat it up. good luck!