Jack the transmission up all the way and mate the engine to it BEFORE sitting the engine on to the engine mounts. If u loosen the 3 bottom engine mount bolts on each side allowing mounts to wiggle, it will make sitting the engine on them easier too.
I replaced most aluminum (and of course stretch to yield) bolts in this engine, but I did not replace these. Yes, you are supposed to use new ones, but it's been over a year now and it still holds perfectly. These don't seal anything and just hold the pump to the block AND I didn't want to wait a week for the bolts to come in :)
I did the same. I did not push the torque converter all the way back caused binding between the flex plate and the torque converter. For the first week of driving, it made a metallic rubbing noise and rumbling noise at high speed (under the car) and I thought it was from the heat shield. But turned out that one spot on the the flex plate lightly rubbing the starter gear. Again, I had to remove the engine to replace the flex plate and the car runs like new now. During tightened up the trans/engine bolts, the flex plate was bent by a couple milliners causing contact with the starter. When I spun the engine by hand, it made a cling sound that how I found out. Hope yours is OK.
Have the same problem right now, i have rebuilded my engine but now its making a ratteling sound at the torque converter. I took out al bolts of the converter en pushed it back so the flywheel is free. Still making the rubbing sound, not looking forward to take out the engine again 😑 did you move the engine to the front a bit or took it all the way out? Thanks
Nice job - I am building an N55 for my 135i M sport coupe DCT car as well so keen to see how this all goes. So given the video is a bit old any updates on it - i.e. is it running yet?
@@SimpleCarGuy how much did it cost you to rebuild the engine? I have N55 E70 and making a knocking sound which I pretty sure it's the crankshaft. all Mechanics I have seen so far they said it is not repairable and I have to buy a used one, is it true?
Great video! Quick question, under the driver side is a negative cable. Where did u put it into? And my valve cover only has 1 hole for vacuum line yours has 2
hey bro i took my n55 to a mechanic and came back with codes related to solenoids. So since they denied to keep working on it. I decided to take things on my own, but I figure that they might maed a big mistake since all three connectors from the two solenoid and sensor pressure control valve look exactly the same i believe they plugged them wrong and I am not sure where they go IF YOU COULD GIVE ME A HAND TO CONNECT THEM.
It’s the coils. Not all engines n55 are equal. Newer engines won’t accept old computers. They must match. Swap the old coils setup from the old engine to the new.
Man, I checked the video again and it’s correct… somehow between the footage and the time I bolted it all together it went 180 lol. Must have been when I switched the chains. Just glad it’s fixed!
I don’t have a lift, so it would be harder. I dropped the subframe when I replaced the engine on my Z4 but only because I wasn’t able to reach some bolts. Wasn’t necessary here.
My n55 locked up, and I’m wondering. If I got a fully built remanufactured engine and a hoist, how difficult would it be for me to try to install it myself with no prior experience?
How much mechanical experience do you have? Do you have tools? I did a swap in my Z4 a couple years ago without any experience at all and it took me 2 weekends to take it out and a weekend to put it back in. Had to run to the store a few times for tools and order a few on Amazon.
You are 100% correct. What I was trying to say is that if it's on the outside of the engine all it does is something something in place but does not affect it's functions, it's probably to reuse them.. like the bolts that hold the wiring loom to the engine.
Where does that one ground wire go 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I'm so lost. Almost done rebuilding my engine your series made it possible for me without a manual thx sm!
I'm having the same issue lol. Where does it go?
Jack the transmission up all the way and mate the engine to it BEFORE sitting the engine on to the engine mounts. If u loosen the 3 bottom engine mount bolts on each side allowing mounts to wiggle, it will make sitting the engine on them easier too.
Exactly the route that I took.
I've been waiting for this one!
Nice videos, you deserve more view.
Glad you think so and thanks for watching.
Finally! Yay!
6:26 - Do you need new bolts when reinstalling the water pump ? Thanks.
I replaced most aluminum (and of course stretch to yield) bolts in this engine, but I did not replace these. Yes, you are supposed to use new ones, but it's been over a year now and it still holds perfectly. These don't seal anything and just hold the pump to the block AND I didn't want to wait a week for the bolts to come in :)
I did the same. I did not push the torque converter all the way back caused binding between the flex plate and the torque converter. For the first week of driving, it made a metallic rubbing noise and rumbling noise at high speed (under the car) and I thought it was from the heat shield. But turned out that one spot on the the flex plate lightly rubbing the starter gear. Again, I had to remove the engine to replace the flex plate and the car runs like new now. During tightened up the trans/engine bolts, the flex plate was bent by a couple milliners causing contact with the starter. When I spun the engine by hand, it made a cling sound that how I found out. Hope yours is OK.
I think I might be having a similar issue. Now that it's running, it's making a weird noise in that area. I'll have to investigate at some point!
Have the same problem right now, i have rebuilded my engine but now its making a ratteling sound at the torque converter. I took out al bolts of the converter en pushed it back so the flywheel is free. Still making the rubbing sound, not looking forward to take out the engine again 😑 did you move the engine to the front a bit or took it all the way out? Thanks
Nice job - I am building an N55 for my 135i M sport coupe DCT car as well so keen to see how this all goes. So given the video is a bit old any updates on it - i.e. is it running yet?
Yeah, I got it running! Thanks for watching
@@SimpleCarGuy how much did it cost you to rebuild the engine? I have N55 E70 and making a knocking sound which I pretty sure it's the crankshaft. all Mechanics I have seen so far they said it is not repairable and I have to buy a used one, is it true?
Hey what are the torque specs for the transmission bell housing bolts to the engine? Specifically the 5 M12x75 , 2 M12x50 and 3 M5x50 bolts? Thanks
So you didn’t put a new TurboCharger but you rebuild it right ???
For the flywheel bolts is it 16 or 60nm?
Great video! Quick question, under the driver side is a negative cable. Where did u put it into? And my valve cover only has 1 hole for vacuum line yours has 2
hey bro i took my n55 to a mechanic and came back with codes related to solenoids. So since they denied to keep working on it. I decided to take things on my own, but I figure that they might maed a big mistake since all three connectors from the two solenoid and sensor pressure control valve look exactly the same i believe they plugged them wrong and I am not sure where they go IF YOU COULD GIVE ME A HAND TO CONNECT THEM.
Where can i get a reason crankshaft for my 2013 bmw x5 turbo
I'm a subscriber and just rebuild my N55 following your video. Need help with torque spec for the bolts holding the flywheel to the torque converter
That's awesome to hear that these videos are helping people. Thanks for watching.
The torque specs depend on your transmission:
Type: A4S 270R / A4S 310R / A5S 310Z / A5S 300J / A5S 440Z / A5S 560Z / A5S 325Z / A4S 200R / GA6HP26Z / GA6HP19Z
Thread: M10 8.8
Torque: 45 Nm
Type: A5S360/ 390R
Thread: M10
Torque: 45 Nm
Type: A5S360/ 390R / GA6HP19Z / GA6HP26Z / GA6HP32Z / GA6L45R
Thread: M10 10.9
Torque: 56 Nm
Hope it helps!
@@SimpleCarGuy Thank you sooo very much. Your videos are really heloing others
@@SimpleCarGuythanks!
hi where goes the ground wire
Any chance you ever figured out where it went?
It’s the coils. Not all engines n55 are equal. Newer engines won’t accept old computers. They must match.
Swap the old coils setup from the old engine to the new.
Check out the latest video, I go over how I fixed it. It wasn't coils!
did you replace the torque converter bolts or are they okay to re-use? what is the torque spec?
Yes, you are supposed to replace those as well. Torque specs depend on the transmissions, but I believe it's 56nm for RWD and 60nm for AWD
Would it be easier for me install the engine with the cat on or off
Cat off for sure. You can then install it fairly easily before you install the engine mount.
so wat was it
Timing was 180 degrees off :|
I TOLD YA ON THE FORUMS it was ur timing, cant wait for the startup vid
Man, I checked the video again and it’s correct… somehow between the footage and the time I bolted it all together it went 180 lol. Must have been when I switched the chains. Just glad it’s fixed!
👍
Why you didn’t just Drop the Subframe that was way easier!!!
I don’t have a lift, so it would be harder. I dropped the subframe when I replaced the engine on my Z4 but only because I wasn’t able to reach some bolts. Wasn’t necessary here.
My n55 locked up, and I’m wondering. If I got a fully built remanufactured engine and a hoist, how difficult would it be for me to try to install it myself with no prior experience?
How much mechanical experience do you have? Do you have tools? I did a swap in my Z4 a couple years ago without any experience at all and it took me 2 weekends to take it out and a weekend to put it back in. Had to run to the store a few times for tools and order a few on Amazon.
How did it lock up?
Aluminum bolts should always be replaced.
You are 100% correct. What I was trying to say is that if it's on the outside of the engine all it does is something something in place but does not affect it's functions, it's probably to reuse them.. like the bolts that hold the wiring loom to the engine.
@@SimpleCarGuy only non-structural fastenings.
Anyone who can show the wiring bmw f30 n55 connecting dme