Great video, I just took my dash apart, it was already busted and super-glued. Nobody will believe I didn’t break and glue it. I just ordered a switch, hoping that solves my no-fuel pump prime /no start issues
Very cool this is helping me out with my fuel selector switch because it is having difficulty keeping the connection with the rear tank and keeps acting like I ran out of gas when it’s really the fuel selector switch keeping in contact with what ever connection there is.
Im having the same issues now... My truck was set to front tank for years, then suddenly wouldnt start despite having gas in the tank. Then I switched to rear and its starts. Given, the switch is old and sticky, wont switch with ease, you have to pound it. I was told by a friend it just needs a new selector switch. If thats the case, why would my front tank stop working after years of using only front tank... only to start on the rear tank alone if its just the switch? Im trying to avoid having to get a new filter if possible. I ordered the switch part and will try it first. How did yours work out?
Thank you for this video! The switch on mine has dislocated/separated from the front face plate/panel. The switch works fine, but now it's loose in that compartment. Ford service wanted over $50 for the switch and $150 for labor. I see I can order the switch online for around $15. But I may not even need to buy a switch. I will definitely be doing this!
Amla Investments, LLC You're welcome! I'm glad you liked it. Those dealers just rob people of money. If your switch is just old looking in general, it's worth replacing it just to have it looking new. Also I used a hot glue gun for this repair. Consider using a plastic welder. It will make a stronger fix.
Top of my switch is all loose. Only the bottom mount is holding it in. I used 2-part epoxy on the broken plastic part on dash. I reinforced the one that wasn't broken (yet) with epoxy too. I let the epoxy cure for 24hrs before mounting switch. Switch is solid now and hopefully a long-lasting fix. The plastic on these old OBS are very brittle.
Have a 1996 f150. The rear tank always had trouble starting but would start. But wouldn't run very well at high speeds. 60 and above and would bog down ever once in a while and not allow me to increase speeds. Eventually at fueling stations I couldnt add gas into the rear tank at all. The gas pump would just click as if it was full. With that being said I mostly used the front tank. Got low on gas the other day filled up about have a tank and a mile down the road the engine shut down. Tried both tanks to start but has to tow it. Changed the fuel filter and checked fuses that were relevant to the problem. Brothers are suggesting that it may be the switch in this video. I haven't repaired it but thought I'd text this out to get some further advice. Fuel pumps are in mind but thought it would be strange if both fuel pumps went out.
Very interesting. Definitely change your switch out for a new one. It’s cheap and easy. When you unscrew your gas cap, does it sound like your are releasing air pressure? Also, it’s not uncommon that both pumps fail, especially if one gets worked harder than the other.
Question for you. I have a 1994 f150 4.9 single tank 5 spd manual. I narrowed my fuel issue to having power at inertia switch through to red yellow wire. No power from there to fuel pump. I do not have the fuel selector switch since i only have one tank. From what i read i have a fuel selector jumper. Do you know where that could be or have you dealt with this problem before?
If you have no power from the inertia switch to the pump then your inertia switch has been triggered or it’s malfunctioned. I would assume if you’re to jump, the fuel selector switch would be somewhere behind the dash where the switch would normally be located. Otherwise this is a new one for me.
I repaired/replaced my mounting 'studs' using bondo. After some shaping work for the switch placement, I drilled holes in the bondo and used epoxy to set a long nut in each hole. --- remember, anytime you reinstall a screw in a plastic mounting, run the screw backwards a little to set it in the original threads.
Nice! That will do the trick! Now that I know how to plastic weld, I would have plastic welded mine. Maybe next time! Yup, you definitely want to reuse the old threads.
Nice video! New switch is on the way for mine! But also, how would you handle a bad fuel pump situation? I have never done it but some people are talking about "external" pumps instead of dropping the tank to replace the internal ones. What do you think about that? TIA!
Thanks man!🤙 If you have a bad fuel pump, replacing it is the best option. I’ve never heard of an external fuel pump as a fix for these trucks. I have a couple of videos on replacing the fuel pump via a DIY hatch in the bed. Otherwise, you’ll need to drain and drop the fuel tank.
I have a similar but different problem. Just bought a '94 F150 XL long bed. Drove it a couple miles and it died at a stop light. It took me awhile to figure out that I had dual tanks so I flipped the switch and the truck started right up and ran well. Problem is the gas gauges don't work. So, the switch seems fine but a problem somewhere else. Where would you start to track down the problem? Pull the cluster? Take off the bed and check the Fuel Delivery Module (FDM)? Something else?
So your gas gauge gets it’s reading from the fuel pump assembly. I believe the FDM or similarly named part is built into the fuel pump assembly. What I recommend to people, is that you replace the entire fuel pump assembly. Pumps are original deal eventually fail. I have a video on how to cut a hatch in the bed of these trucks. That video helps changing the fuel pump assembly much faster. Otherwise you’ll have to drain the tank and then drop it.
@@TheMinuteMasters Or take the bed off to get at the tanks. You are correct about needing to replace the whole assembly but I've seen a couple of videos or reader's comments where, in one case, they had switched gauge clusters and the new cluster was shorting out. They applied some electrical tape on the back of the cluster and the gauges started working again. The previous owner said that my truck does not have the original cluster. Another reader said that when he disconnected the negative battery terminal and then reconnected it - the gas gauge started working again. Electronics - ain't they wonderful? So before I start lifting my truck bed I think I'll give those two options a try first. Then I'll have to go out and make some more friends to help lift the bed up - unless you want to come over with some of your friends :)
@@STBRetired1 Good to know about the clusters. Those are probably the reasons why I will always keep the original cluster even if it doesn’t have a tachometer. Definitely start with the cheap fixes for sure.
Take the bed off I never could understand why you would ruin a perfectly good bed to do a onetime job, at least I'm not planning on changing a fuel pump everything I turn around doesn't make sense.
@@leeferraro1532 After my post, the rear gas tank rusted out and sprung a leak. Shortly thereafter the gas level sending unit for the front tank stopped working. Looks like next year the bed comes off - the rear tank comes out permanently and a new sending unit for the front tank goes in. I hardly drive the truck so why have two tanks?
Great video, im working on my brothers 92 f150 and your videos rock, i cant thank you enough, by the way have you ever removed the rear gas tank, when he bought it, he was told its no good, im working on the a/ c now and when im done he wants me to remove the rear tank thank you!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! I have removed the rear tank. I had a video on it years ago but deleted it. It’s pretty straightforward. You need to drain the tank, unhook the two fuel tank straps, unhook the filler tube, and the last thing to unhook is the fuel pump. You will need to make sure there isn’t any fuel in the lines though.
i hope this video isn’t too old for me to get a reply but i’ve been having issues with my gas gauge and rear tank not working, it’s a 1996 f250 . the gas gauge always reads on empty on the front tank even when full. when switched over to the rear the needle goes up but then the truck sputters out and dies. only starting when switched back to the front tank.i’m confused on why my gauge only works on the second tank but then shuts off and dies? i’ve tried changing the switch with a 95 f150 and still the same issue, i’m not sure if that switch was faulty too but i’m confused on what it could be. another thing is my coolant temp gauge has never worked so that makes me wonder if there is a fuse blown or bad ground on my cluster. if so that makes me wonder what could be wrong with my rear tank
Sounds like the fuel level sensor on the front tank is bad (or the fuel float has filled with fuel and sunk to the bottom of the tank.) The rear fuel pump sounds like it’s failing. I would also replace the fuel filter while your at it.
im having problems with my farm truck. it runs great until driving down the road and it starts to spit spatter. I flip the switch back and forth then it takes off going again. Ive cleaned the tanks , and put new fuel filters pumps in the tanks and now a new switch.
Hi Tanya, so you have two new fuel pumps, one new fuel filter, both tanks are clean, and you have a new switch. The only other components on the fuel system are the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel injectors. I’m not inclined to think those have failed because it’s more rare that they do. Without replacing those two parts, I would get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the Schrader valve on the driver side fuel rail. Test the fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is within spec then you are good there. Let’s take a different approach. Have you replaced any of the ignition components? This would be your spark plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, distributor cap, and the distributor rotor? The spitter spatter could be a result of the fuel not igniting because there isn’t a strong spark.
Both of those little doohickies in the back of the bezzles are broken on mine. What do you think-- drill it through and bolt and nut it down from the front?
Keith Gee Are the threaded plastic pieces gone? If you still have them, I would plastic weld them back on. Otherwise through booting might be your only option.
FILTHY OAX I know if the switch isn’t plugged in your truck won’t start. If that’s the case, if the switch is bad then it could prevent the truck from starting.
Dude thank you! I just messed with this switch and my truck powered on with no problem I had the switch on REAR. FRONT tank never worked but it's on now lol
I sent the tip about the ABS BLACK PLASTIC PIPE CEMENT PLUMBERS USE for soil pipe. I have a couple of tid-bits I have to pass on. That ABS glue after using it for 50 yrs I tried everything to clean it off my hands😂 . It takes a couple of days to pick and wear it off. I bought a can to glue a rear view mirror back to gather and finally read the lable before the black glue covered the printing. That glue hardens up over time. The solvent evaps. I looked ABS up on Wikipedia and acetone was the magic solvent. In fact it gave the recipe for ABS slurry and mentioned different colors. One more. A product named Hercules pipe thread compound it is shellac base product and it is 10 times harder to clean off, it also hardens over time. Permatex sells it for flat machined surfaces or pipe threads. It is bar none the best thread compound. It is the best. Gasoline, lacquer thinner, fuel gas piping, m e k, acetone, detergents, only one thing after trying just about everything under the sun and it turned out to be 91 percent rubbing, alcohol. I couldn't believe it. DON'T. use Teflon for alot of reasons, its ok for yard sprinklers, Teflon tape is on good to make orings. In a pinch. Hercules or Permatex. I sure wish I knew the cleanup /thinning of these two products earlier LOL Industral Pipefitter retired. The he only point I want to make is working with these products.... Messy/nightmare to easy/and a pleasure
Ah yes! Great tip! Interesting I didn’t know that about ABS glue. I’m on the younger end of being a master plumber but I hardly ever use ABS. I like the bit about the Hercules pipe thread compound. I used Teflon for plumbing fixtures where required. I always used a thread compound for gas. Not Hercules though. I’ll have to pick time up. I appreciate the recommendations. I’m always curious to hear other plumbers and piper fitters opinions on products and just installation methodology.
@@TheMinuteMasters Oh man, how does that go " Necessities the mother of invention". I have a 2014 GT-500 and the right side rear view mirror I seem to enjoy wipping it off the side of the car. I had a 2007 GT-500 that I practiced doing the same expensive past time on first. Ford put it in a fixed fairing that doesn't move..... Wait thats not true.... It moves when it breaks off the door. Originally replacement was $500 here in Kommiefornia. I took it apart it was broken at the adjusting motor inside the fixed fairing that is bolted to the door. Its hard to explain. The 3 bolts were broke off and inside the door with the ABS threaded bosses sheared off still. On the bolt. The motor with the mirror was broken from the main structure that holds the gasket, white fairing and it all stacks togeather. It broke at the weak points several places. It is tight the wires have to be in the channel or it won't go to geather. I drilled little holes so I could
I sent it before I finished. So I could stich the motor and mirror back to the structure it was broken off of. There was no way I could clamp it. I have done this 3-4 times. Narrow driveway. Good as new. In fact the last time I did it I conly had to glue the 3 bolt bosses back on. We uae ABS For residential soil systems, I think it said 50 grams of ABS pipe or fittings cut in pieces and dissolved in a jar and it was a interesting artical. PVC will do the same thing different solvent. I never had a leak in any gas service I did. I contracted large apt buildings 60+ all sizes just the gas piping I had a couple of guys I had working. Never not one leak using Hercules. I was in the Fire Sprinkler Fitters, Union.... Teflon tape or dope ... Leaks plenty 9f them. I will leave you with this. When you thread pipe. Cut the thread one full turn past the die. Thats HOW MANY THREADS. Check the depth. Take a new fitting, when it catches turn the fitting.... 1...2....and a half turns at least. If it doesn't cut that thread off adjust the die deeper and cut it again. You mentioned you doin some plumbing. What I just layed out means the difference in smooth leak free joint as opposed to a joint that seezes up and leaks..
I have a dual-tank 95 f-150. I use the truck about every 6 weeks, so I blame the bad fuel pump on old gas. I have an old car that has had the same problem. This is a possible solution to the "bad" fuel-pump problem. If the gas has turned to lacquer, it can act like glue that keeps the fuel pump from "humming" momentarily with key-on. I measured the voltage at the tank selector switch, and initially there is battery 12 volts, then the voltage drops to 10.5 volts for normal driving down the road. To begin, I gain access to the switch, remove it's connector, and looking at the connector, the left-center connection is the 12 volt supply to the tank pumps. (key-on, 12 volts dropping to 10.5v) The front tank is bottom left, rear tank is top left. I ohm to chassis ground, (cheap Harbor Freight digital meter) to find close to zero ohms for the working pump, and a higher reading to the non-working pump circuit. (I had 14 ohms) I supplied 24 (yes, 24) volts momentarily to the terminal for the bad pump. The 24 volts gives added power to overcome the stuck pump. Emphasis: apply 24 volts BRIEFLY to hear the pump hum. Reconnect the tank switch, key on/off while checking that each tank pump hums for 1 second. No need to replace an otherwise good pump with all of the hassle, nor replacing the tank selector switch just to see if it would fix the problem. More info: When removing the two trim pieces to gain access to the T-20 torx screws, each trim broke into two pieces. I used epoxy for plastic to glue the back-side of those trim pieces. However, later on, I replaced those shabby-looking pieces with two pieces of mahogany, by drilling holes in the exact location to match the torx screw holes, using longer screws of the same diameter (number 8, I think). The stained mahogany looks much better than the faded plastic strips. The new wood strips and screws are sturdy enough to hold the dash in place. Another test: Just replacing the tank selector switch to see if it "fixes" the non-working pump problem is unnecessary if you have an ohm-meter. Measure the center terminals to the upper and lower switch terminals, on-off-on-off, to see zero ohms, repeatedly, between the two switch terminal sets. It's a double-pole, double-throw switch. Anything other than zero ohms is bad. Replace an intermittent switch. I modified the switch setup such that my switch is not mounted on the backside of the dash, but mounted on the front-side with two screws showing. I can now remove the switch with a screwdriver. There is about 4 inches of extra wiring that can be pulled through the dash hole for access. I enlarged the rectangular switch hole on the left-hand side to accommodate the switch. I had removed the big switch mounting tabs originally used, and used the two small tabs toward the front side of the switch that weren't used in the original installation. No more removing the dash for future problems. I'd like to show a pix of the completed setup, but I can't figure out how to do that.
@@TheMinuteMasters I forgot to say that I have a battery charger that 24 volts can be selected to use from chassis ground to the associated terminal at the tank switch connector. Otherwise, connect two 12 batteries in series to jolt the offending pump.
How could I jump my switch temporarily until new switch comes in ? Always run on back tank then it died & wont start. Neither pump gives me the 1 second run indicator sound. Thanks
I have a 1993 Ford F-150 300 CID, dual gas tanks, cranks doesn't start. Replaced coil, distributor, computer ( twice ). Truck will start & run, but dies after 30 minutes. Suggestions ?
Thanks for the helpful video! I noticed the silver toggle switch to the right of the instrument panel. Doesn't look OEM. My truck has it too but what is it for?
Roberto Santiago Rodriguez No problem man! 🤙 So that switch is for the KC Cyclone light under my hood. A lot of guys mount switches in that area because it’s a great location for one. Your switch could be installed for a variety of reasons. I’ve seen switches there for auxiliary lights/light bars & pods, radiator fans, back lights, interior lights, etc. I’ve since moved that switch under the hood to make it more convenient to access while under the hood.
I have a 1994 Lighting and my tank in front holds 18 gallons and my rear tank holds 38 gallons Factory tanks I might add. Also when I run out on my front tank it's 0ut and don't keep running on the rear tank. I've had a bunch of these old Fords and None of 'em ever done like you said.......keep run'n off of the rear tank. Never heard of this before.
Do you can one of two issues. A) this switch no longer works. B) one of your fuel pumps is bad. With the older brick and bullnose fords, i’m told there’s a selector valve somewhere on the frame rail underneath the cab. That could also cause an issue.
Jaime Cervera I never knew auto zone carried them. I can’t remember what brand mines is but I bought it off amazon. You should be good with the genuine Ford part.
This always best to use the Motorcraft Switch, and allot of Motorcraft Parts can be bought on Amazon.com and at very lower prices than at the Dealerships. I know as I'm a former Ford Parts Manager, and have bought most all Ford Motorcraft Parts now on Amazon.com.
Rj Guerra Depends When the switch goes bad or is removed, the pumps don’t turn on. So if the switch is bad as in it don’t flow the correct current to power the pumps, then the pumps won’t turn on. I hope that makes sense.
The Minute Masters So another question if the fuel pump is going bad would i still hear it turn on ex. Low fuel on front tank truck gives a lot of trouble to start but after cycling the key several times i guess to build up pressure it turns on. I can hear both pumps turning on but once the front tank gets low the rear tank wont start the truck unless i cycle several times and keep trying to start it could that rear pump be bad?
Yes, a fuel pump can start to go bad, which means it doesn't pump well. It will still turn on and make the buzzing noise. It does sound like you need a new fuel pump. Make the job easier on yourself and watch my video about how to add an access hatch for your fuel tank.
How long does it take for tanks to swich from one to the other? I have a 1982 ford F150 XLT lariet. Reason why i am asking is it takes awhile for mine to change over.From front to back or back to front. I have noticed it goes past E then back up to how much in tank. Also does it have to take and drain the fuel from one tank back into it then read tank i have selected?
readybaby dfifdksuoh Once you flip the switch it should start drawing fuel from that tank instantly. It takes a few seconds for the gauge to adjust to the fuel level in that tank though. For example, if I reach a 1/4 in the front tank and I switch to the rear tank, the gauge needs a second or two to move to the Full mark. If I switch back to the front tank (which is 1/4) from the full rear tank, the gauge will need a couple seconds to move back to the 1/4 mark.
I pulled apart my 1989 F250’s fuel diverter switch. It was working fine with good free flow of gas from front and rear tank lines. After putting everything back together, the diverter showed the full rear tank but the half full front tank (so the sensor works.) But once the dashboard switch is flipped to rear tank, the truck stalls out within 2-3 minutes. Where else should I check.
Marshall Dressel So believe it or not but I’ve seen the switch go bad after being pulled out. Or, the new switch was defective. If both pumps are working fine, the switch is usually the culprit. However, you can also check your fuses and relays. I can’t remember if both pumps are on the same relay. Assuming the switch and fuel pumps are working properly, I would check the fuses and relays.
Very late but is there a way to manually switch the tanks? Or a way to trick the switch into switching? My fuel pump is over heating on the rear tank and I dont have the time ir money to actually mess with the switch at the moment
KillerKlown690 I’m sure there’s a way to manually connect the wires behind the switch. However that switch is the connection point for a lot of other fuel related wires. If you would go through the trouble to manually switch the wires then you’ll have most of the work completed to swap the switch out. The switch is around $15. Is your fuel pump that is overheating immersed in fuel? Fuel is what will keep the pump cool. As long as you have fuel in that tank, your pump shouldn’t burn out.
@@TheMinuteMasters the back tank filled up no problem, the front one would stop the pump 3 seconds in, my question is does the switch have to be on front to fill the front one up? Or does that not matter at all? Thanks for the speedy response man fr, I was at the gas station for like 10 mins googling stuff, but gave up cause didn’t want to mess nothing up.
@@ricardotrejo8640 That’s weird. I had one gas station do that to me but it was only that pump. It doesn’t matter what tank the switch is on. You can fill them in any order. Two things can gas back pressure into the tank and prevent filling the tanks full. Each tank has a vent valve that is piped to a charcoal box in the engine bay. Either the vent valve can go bad or the charcoal box can get clogged over time. I have a video on how to change the vent valve. I would honestly try filling up at a different pump and also try insert the actual pump differently. Like not all the way in or angle the pump up. If this consistently happens no matter the pump, then I would replace the vent valve and then the charcoal box.
My 92 f150 has a fluctuating gas gauge like when I put it in gear it goes to full but when I back up it swings like crazy to empty this happened with a old gauge cluster I had before I upgraded to a tachometer and it still does it with the "new" gauge cluster you think it's the sending unit? Or just the gauge itself?
That's very odd! I've never see that happen. I know my fuel gauge will fluctuate do to the incline of the truck. (It reads high going up hill and low going down hill.) You either have a bad sending unit or a wire that's wires weird. Post your problem to "ford truck enthusiasts'" forum and see what the members say. Otherwise, it sounds like a sending unit. Actually, does the gauge fluctuate weird for both tanks? Each tank had a sending unit. I can't imagine both would be weird.
@@TheMinuteMasters Actually it does do that with both tanks Ill try my luck on there because right now the gauge just dropped to empty even tho the trucks on with the first tank ill try to take a video of it but right now i"m waiting on a new phone.
@@adrianbautista7815 That is so weird! See what the forums say. Otherwise, try replacing one of the sending units. If that doesn't fix it, then you problem is with the gauge cluster. I've also heard people replace the fuel tank selector switch and that has fixed weird problems.
@@TheMinuteMasters hmm ill try taking apart the gauge cluster again and see what happens if not one thing at a time because This is bugging me I appreciate the help though.
@@kronikillnessproductions4409 replace the filter, switch, and selector valves. It's one of the three and they all go really easy. May as well replace them all and never worry again
I had an issue where the truck would run poorly when I started it up on the front tank but if you used the rear tank and then switched to the front it ran OK as it turned out the fuel pump was weak and not holding pressure and that also allowed it to pump fuel between the tanks and overflow on one tank..Usually if the filter is plugged it will run crappy all the time unless there is crap in the tank and that's not the filter. Don't know if the switches fail but it's a cheap fix and it might work. Don't know about selector valves not saying it doesn't have one but the shop didn't mention it. The fuel pump cost 500 dollars plus install must be made of gold oops motorcraft genuine parts
You can get by just fine with Fords on that feature, but you'll burn up a Chevy the first time. I try not to let mine get that low, but it has happened countless times with no problems. My first and only chevy, which was a 99 Tahoe burned out the second day I owned it.
The Minute Masters Yessir, i'm gonna tackle it tomorrow ..... mine is completely pushed in too so i'll either have to glue it, modify it, or buy a new one because the tabs may be broken off ..... we'll see 😃
I noticed at 2:34 that you have an unmarked toggle switch on the dash. I have one of those but the guy I bought the truck from didn't know what it's function was. What does yours do? Thanks
So it’s not a stock switch. It turns on my under hood KC Cyclone light. I have a video showing how to install it. You’ll have to check and see what yours controls. Do you have auxiliary lights on your truck?
i got 93 f150. my fuel pump not turning on so i check the fuses and now today i tool off the fuel tank selector switch and i am looking around and the wiring harness idk if theres any power going to the fuel pump. i replaced the fuel pump last year one tank and fuel filter.
So you said that the rear tank will drain into the front tank over time...My problem is that my front tank is not working, and the gas from my rear tank backfills my front tank, and I end up having to syphon it out.... can you tell me how this transfer from rear to front takes place? thanks
Joe Tocchini So I haven't experienced this problem before, but from what I remember researching on ford truck enthusiast forum, there's a check valve that goes bad. This causes the gas to back fill to other tanks. I don't know where the check valve is located, but I think changing one of the fuel pumps fixes the problem.
Joe Tocchini what year do you have. Mine is a 1996 and the shuttle valve got stuck in the OPEN position so when the fuel would return to the front tank instead of the rear. All you need is a FDM (fuel delivery module) basically a fuel pump. And your set. Mine filled the front tank and dumped fuel everywhere too. Just replace the front gas tank pump
SCHOLET'S firearm mechanics so this is what mine is doing. I had the front tank fuel pump changed and now the rear tank is overfilling and leaking out the around the gas cap. Cross fill problems I guess. So all I need to do is change the fuel pump in the rear tank and that will fix the problem?
Then the fuel sending unit is bad or the fuel float has filled with gas and sunk to the bottom. I’m either instance, I would replace the entire fuel pump assembly.
Hey... I have a correction It's Hercules brand the name of it is "grip". 74 yrs old and today I got up and thought it was Monday, it was Sunday. I am working on my Dual gas tank 1993 F-250. DON'T use it, Loose it. I must be loosing it. I am finished now. "GRIP"
@@Rolaids65 Did you replace only the pump or the entire pump and sending unit assembly? You can try replacing your switch. That’s the only other variable.
@@Rolaids65 I replaced both tanks due to leaks, I replaced the front pump because it failed, and I replaced the switch because it was getting loose and the lettering was faded.
J. R. Thompson It’s not too difficult. The extra tank is handy, and as long as both pumps, and the selector switch are in good working order. You will have no issues.
Broo, your videos are very helpful as i have like the sane yesr truck (1995 f150) can you make a video showing how to fix the gear reader (not sure if thats what its called, but is has the PRND for park, reverse, neutral, drive) well it inly stays on park and i have to count down to thee to get it in drive.
oscar valdez Thanks man! I’m glad they help! I know exactly what you are talking about. The orange peg that points to whatever gear you are in. Used to have to point my shifter at N to be in D. All it is a thin wire that connects to the shifter handle and then to the peg. If yours doesn’t move at all. It probably means that wire is broken. If it doesn’t point at the right letter, then there is a little adjustment wheel.
Have 94 f150 dual tanks. When topped off while running rear tank front tank over fills cant find a selector valve anywhere on frame would the problem be in the switch
Lance Coker The switch can be the problem. If the switch doesn’t fix it, it’s still a cheap part to start with. After that, you would have to start changing fuel pump assemblies.
Sorry to tell you I had the same issue it was the fuel pump not holding enough pressure in the system. There also was a recall on those trucks about the fuel system. That is probably your problem and yes it's expensive if you have a shop do it. I put mine in for the fuel pumping out issue. That is how I know :)
stephen eckles No problem man! 🤙 I’m glad you found the problem with your fuel system! Yeah I have heard about that recall. I’m not sure if Ford will honor recalls on 25 year old trucks. Good luck though!
Does anyone know the difference between needing to replace just the switch or the need to replace the fuel filter? My truck was set to front tank for years, then suddenly wouldnt start despite having gas in the tank. Then I switched to rear and its starts. Given, the switch is old ans sticky, wont switch with ease, you have to pound it. I was told by a friend it just needs a new selector switch. If thats the case, why would my front tank stop working after years of using only front tank... only to start on the rear tank alone?
Both tanks run through one fuel filter. If the fuel filter was the issue, you would have an issue with both tanks. The best way to figure out if your issues with a fuel pump is to turn your truck on and select one of the tanks. Typically if you put your ear to your fuel tank, you can hear it buzzing. Otherwise replacing the switch is fairly cheap when compared to replacing a pump.
I have a 1990 Ford F150 that dumps all of my fuel from my rear tank to my front tank. My rear tank & pump are brand new, front tank & pump are old, & do not work. I've searched hi & lo for a fuel tank selector valve, but I promise, I don't see one anywhere, period. I was told there has to be one somewhere.. But for the life of me, there is not one on my truck. Could it be that I have a faulty fuel tank switch? Would that switch cause my rear tank to dump all of my fuel into the front tank? I've put my old fuel pump check valve on the new pump. If the switch isn't the issue, or there is a fuel tank selector valve hidden in one of those hard to find places, then what could be the issue? Is there a fuel tank switch relay? If so, would you happen to know where these things are located.. I'm really stuck.. I put $50.00 in my rear tank, went 5 miles, came back almost empty. Please help, this is a heavy concern.. Thanks in advance..
Dee 1 Well good news this is a common problem with these trucks. As far as I know there isn’t a fuel selector switch or backflow valve. I usual see these problems when some part of the entire fuel system isn’t working. In this case, I would install a new fuel tank selector switch. After that, I would replace the front tank pump. If you take care of those two things, you should be good to go. Check out my front fuel tank access hatch videos to see how I replace the front tank pump without dropping the tank. Good luck man! 🤙 Let me know how it goes.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thank u so much! U have made my day, really man.. I just came in from looking again...ugh. So get a switch, tank, & a pump, then problem solved.. I don't see anything else could be, because there definitely is no valve anywhere, nor does it look like one was removed by the previous owner, it just isn't setup for one, anywhere.. Put me in a nervous wreck.. I'm ordering the switch now... So apparently, the switch does more than just switch the tanks, it seems to act as a valve as well, because it does switch the tanks, but it must be faulty in preventing back flow as you say.... It has to be that, can't be anything else.. Thanks a million.. I really appreciate u, u have no idea!
Jason Smith Good question! I’ve never actually tried that but I would think you would need a wiring diagram. Then you could see what wire powers what. The trouble is you would end up cutting your harness in order to jump the system. If your button doesn’t look really great, then I would just get a new one. They’re pretty cheap and it cleans up the dash.
kevin plotner There is a relay for the fuel pumps for sure. You would need to check your fuse panel to see if there is a fuse for the selector switch. The back side of the fuse panel usually has an index that identifies the fuses. Otherwise, the owners manual has the guide for identifying the fuses.
We replaced the switch in our 1994 f450 superduty and now we have a problem where there is no current going to the switch. are there any fuses that could be possibly connected to this switch that we could replace
bulletfingrz If you have a Haynes manual ( I would get one if you don’t have one) look to see if there is a fuse in the fuse panel related to the fuel system. I do believe there are fuel pump relays under the hood. Check those things and see what you find.
I looked for the Haynes manual and it appears that they don't have it for my truck. Also I found some diagrams that other people have posted and found all the relays and fuses but non of them seem to be blown or are having problems. I am not even sure what is happening. I changed the switch and the next day it wasn't getting any power to it anymore... thanks for the help. Also Subbed
I've got a 91 F150 xlt lariat. When I switch it to my rear tank my gauge doesn't even move and the truck dies after a little bit, then I switch it back to the front and the Guage still doesn't move.
Daniel Hanson Nice! 🤙 If it dies on one of the tanks then you need to replace the fuel pump in that tank. If the gauge doesn’t read for another tank then it’s the fuel level indicator that is malfunctioning. The fuel level is measured with a float. The original Ford fuel floats are two pieces of brass pushed together to form a mini beer can. The two halves eventually let fuel inside and it sinks to the bottom of the tank. Without actually knowing that’s the case, it’s better to just replace the fuel pump entirely. Check out my fuel pump access hatch videos. The hatch allows you to access your fuel pumps without dropping the tanks.
Nikki Nik First make sure both fuel tanks are full. Then flip the switch to either tank. If the gauge doesn’t change it could be the switch. If the gauge reads low no matter how full the tanks are, then the float on the fuel pump has filled with fuel. This sinks the float to the bottom of the tank and makes it read low.
The Minute Masters thanks for the fast response! The rear one is working. The front shows full (which the tank is) but when we’re driving and have the switch on front it’s still pulling gas from the rear. When we switch to rear we see that the gas was used from that one. Hope that made sense.
Nikki Nik That’s weird. It seems like the wrong pump is being signaled to pump. In this case the signal for the front pump activated the rear. I can’t exactly tell you what is causing that but you could put a new switch in and see what happens. After all a new elector switch is pretty cheap. After that there is a check valve in the fuel system that sometimes gets messed up, which will cause the one tank to pump fuel into the other.
That's not the pump I'm talking about the pump that on the engine . And it dual tank it has a fuel tank selector if that is damage it's not the cause on that part. I said it stulls out new fuel pump in. Now thinking the fuel switch inside .
How long is it to take for tanks to swich from one to the other? I have a 1982 ford F150 XLT lariet. Reason why i am asking is it takes awhile for mine to change over. From front to back or back to front. I have noticed it goes to past E then back up to how much in tank. Also does it have to take and drain the fuel from one tank back into it then read tank i have selected?
Anyone have any idea..i have a 79 Ford e150 chateau dual tanks. Crank no start. Checked fuel gauge not working at all..no power on fuel pump either. New battery/oil&filter/air filter/sparks. 😪 What should I check/replace?
Ali Olmedo I’ve heard bad fuel tank selector switch or bad relay can cause this problem. Just trace back from the fuel pump and check everything along the way.
Ghost Jr I cycled through the tanks and made sure the gauge read different levels. So one tank would be full and one half. Flipping the switch should show the different levels on the gauge.
INDIANA SPORTSMAN87 My switch was a bit loose because one of the mounting screw tabs was cracked. The switch was also dirty and the letters were rubbed off. So figured I’d just swap it out with a new switch.
Can't tell u how many times truck has died from a tank being out There's no automatic switch over on a 93 150....you run it out it's out...when you switch over...give it a second for the other tank pump to engage
Jason Fryer That sucks! I never run my tanks dry so I use the switch to swap to the rear tank once the front is 1/4 left. But I remember when I ran one tank dry and was stranded. Not fun.
Being on a shoestring budget alott if times dictates that poeple use every drop they have ..unfortunately in the long run ..ruins the pump itself. ( Crud in tank). Which costs aLOT more to fix and I feel for single mothers. In that predicament
This nigga said “the fuel pumps on these trucks this age will go bad and if it hasn’t, it will”. Well damit, mine went out today while driving. I hope that i can simply fill the rear tank and keep going because I had to abandon it at some plaza until tomorrow. Pray for me folks
@@TheMinuteMasters I learned that little tip from Sweet Project Cars channel, They have a lot of great advice to help the DIYer. I have used it a couple times and it has worked extremely well. Super glue and baking soda.
Knowing how to remove the dash cover is key! Thanks bro!
It’s definitely key info for sure. No problem man!🤙
Great video, I just took my dash apart, it was already busted and super-glued. Nobody will believe I didn’t break and glue it. I just ordered a switch, hoping that solves my no-fuel pump prime /no start issues
Thanks Joey!🤙 If a switch doesn’t fix it, then the fuel pumps are the issues.
Joey V did it fix your prime issue?
Very cool this is helping me out with my fuel selector switch because it is having difficulty keeping the connection with the rear tank and keeps acting like I ran out of gas when it’s really the fuel selector switch keeping in contact with what ever connection there is.
I’d definitely replace the switch and see what happens.
Im having the same issues now...
My truck was set to front tank for years, then suddenly wouldnt start despite having gas in the tank.
Then I switched to rear and its starts.
Given, the switch is old and sticky, wont switch with ease, you have to pound it.
I was told by a friend it just needs a new selector switch.
If thats the case, why would my front tank stop working after years of using only front tank... only to start on the rear tank alone if its just the switch?
Im trying to avoid having to get a new filter if possible.
I ordered the switch part and will try it first.
How did yours work out?
Thank you for this video! The switch on mine has dislocated/separated from the front face plate/panel. The switch works fine, but now it's loose in that compartment. Ford service wanted over $50 for the switch and $150 for labor. I see I can order the switch online for around $15. But I may not even need to buy a switch. I will definitely be doing this!
Amla Investments, LLC You're welcome! I'm glad you liked it. Those dealers just rob people of money. If your switch is just old looking in general, it's worth replacing it just to have it looking new. Also I used a hot glue gun for this repair. Consider using a plastic welder. It will make a stronger fix.
The Minute Masters I couldn't agree more! Good job! Thanks again!
same here, i need to just reattach it, this video was very helpful.
The Minute Masters q
Top of my switch is all loose. Only the bottom mount is holding it in. I used 2-part epoxy on the broken plastic part on dash. I reinforced the one that wasn't broken (yet) with epoxy too. I let the epoxy cure for 24hrs before mounting switch. Switch is solid now and hopefully a long-lasting fix. The plastic on these old OBS are very brittle.
Have a 1996 f150. The rear tank always had trouble starting but would start. But wouldn't run very well at high speeds. 60 and above and would bog down ever once in a while and not allow me to increase speeds. Eventually at fueling stations I couldnt add gas into the rear tank at all. The gas pump would just click as if it was full. With that being said I mostly used the front tank. Got low on gas the other day filled up about have a tank and a mile down the road the engine shut down. Tried both tanks to start but has to tow it. Changed the fuel filter and checked fuses that were relevant to the problem. Brothers are suggesting that it may be the switch in this video. I haven't repaired it but thought I'd text this out to get some further advice. Fuel pumps are in mind but thought it would be strange if both fuel pumps went out.
Very interesting. Definitely change your switch out for a new one. It’s cheap and easy.
When you unscrew your gas cap, does it sound like your are releasing air pressure?
Also, it’s not uncommon that both pumps fail, especially if one gets worked harder than the other.
Question for you. I have a 1994 f150 4.9 single tank 5 spd manual. I narrowed my fuel issue to having power at inertia switch through to red yellow wire. No power from there to fuel pump. I do not have the fuel selector switch since i only have one tank. From what i read i have a fuel selector jumper. Do you know where that could be or have you dealt with this problem before?
If you have no power from the inertia switch to the pump then your inertia switch has been triggered or it’s malfunctioned.
I would assume if you’re to jump, the fuel selector switch would be somewhere behind the dash where the switch would normally be located. Otherwise this is a new one for me.
@@TheMinuteMasters yes there eas a harness back there with a jumper. I figured it out this morning. Thanks for the response.
I repaired/replaced my mounting 'studs' using bondo. After some shaping work for the switch placement, I drilled holes in the bondo and used epoxy to set a long nut in each hole. --- remember, anytime you reinstall a screw in a plastic mounting, run the screw backwards a little to set it in the original threads.
Nice! That will do the trick! Now that I know how to plastic weld, I would have plastic welded mine. Maybe next time! Yup, you definitely want to reuse the old threads.
Jay Herde i
Nice video!
New switch is on the way for mine!
But also, how would you handle a bad fuel pump situation? I have never done it but some people are talking about "external" pumps instead of dropping the tank to replace the internal ones. What do you think about that?
TIA!
Thanks man!🤙
If you have a bad fuel pump, replacing it is the best option. I’ve never heard of an external fuel pump as a fix for these trucks.
I have a couple of videos on replacing the fuel pump via a DIY hatch in the bed. Otherwise, you’ll need to drain and drop the fuel tank.
I have a similar but different problem. Just bought a '94 F150 XL long bed. Drove it a couple miles and it died at a stop light. It took me awhile to figure out that I had dual tanks so I flipped the switch and the truck started right up and ran well. Problem is the gas gauges don't work. So, the switch seems fine but a problem somewhere else. Where would you start to track down the problem? Pull the cluster? Take off the bed and check the Fuel Delivery Module (FDM)? Something else?
So your gas gauge gets it’s reading from the fuel pump assembly. I believe the FDM or similarly named part is built into the fuel pump assembly. What I recommend to people, is that you replace the entire fuel pump assembly. Pumps are original deal eventually fail.
I have a video on how to cut a hatch in the bed of these trucks. That video helps changing the fuel pump assembly much faster. Otherwise you’ll have to drain the tank and then drop it.
@@TheMinuteMasters Or take the bed off to get at the tanks. You are correct about needing to replace the whole assembly but I've seen a couple of videos or reader's comments where, in one case, they had switched gauge clusters and the new cluster was shorting out. They applied some electrical tape on the back of the cluster and the gauges started working again. The previous owner said that my truck does not have the original cluster. Another reader said that when he disconnected the negative battery terminal and then reconnected it - the gas gauge started working again. Electronics - ain't they wonderful? So before I start lifting my truck bed I think I'll give those two options a try first. Then I'll have to go out and make some more friends to help lift the bed up - unless you want to come over with some of your friends :)
@@STBRetired1 Good to know about the clusters. Those are probably the reasons why I will always keep the original cluster even if it doesn’t have a tachometer.
Definitely start with the cheap fixes for sure.
Take the bed off I never could understand why you would ruin a perfectly good bed to do a onetime job, at least I'm not planning on changing a fuel pump everything I turn around doesn't make sense.
@@leeferraro1532 After my post, the rear gas tank rusted out and sprung a leak. Shortly thereafter the gas level sending unit for the front tank stopped working. Looks like next year the bed comes off - the rear tank comes out permanently and a new sending unit for the front tank goes in. I hardly drive the truck so why have two tanks?
Great video, im working on my brothers 92 f150 and your videos rock, i cant thank you enough, by the way have you ever removed the rear gas tank, when he bought it, he was told its no good, im working on the a/ c now and when im done he wants me to remove the rear tank thank you!
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! I have removed the rear tank. I had a video on it years ago but deleted it. It’s pretty straightforward. You need to drain the tank, unhook the two fuel tank straps, unhook the filler tube, and the last thing to unhook is the fuel pump. You will need to make sure there isn’t any fuel in the lines though.
Hi thanks for video excellent now I can replace my 🇺🇸🇺🇸
i hope this video isn’t too old for me to get a reply but i’ve been having issues with my gas gauge and rear tank not working, it’s a 1996 f250 . the gas gauge always reads on empty on the front tank even when full. when switched over to the rear the needle goes up but then the truck sputters out and dies. only starting when switched back to the front tank.i’m confused on why my gauge only works on the second tank but then shuts off and dies? i’ve tried changing the switch with a 95 f150 and still the same issue, i’m not sure if that switch was faulty too but i’m confused on what it could be. another thing is my coolant temp gauge has never worked so that makes me wonder if there is a fuse blown or bad ground on my cluster. if so that makes me wonder what could be wrong with my rear tank
Sounds like the fuel level sensor on the front tank is bad (or the fuel float has filled with fuel and sunk to the bottom of the tank.) The rear fuel pump sounds like it’s failing. I would also replace the fuel filter while your at it.
im having problems with my farm truck. it runs great until driving down the road and it starts to spit spatter. I flip the switch back and forth then it takes off going again. Ive cleaned the tanks , and put new fuel filters pumps in the tanks and now a new switch.
Hi Tanya, so you have two new fuel pumps, one new fuel filter, both tanks are clean, and you have a new switch. The only other components on the fuel system are the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel injectors. I’m not inclined to think those have failed because it’s more rare that they do. Without replacing those two parts, I would get a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the Schrader valve on the driver side fuel rail. Test the fuel pressure. If the fuel pressure is within spec then you are good there.
Let’s take a different approach. Have you replaced any of the ignition components? This would be your spark plugs, plug wires, ignition coil, distributor cap, and the distributor rotor? The spitter spatter could be a result of the fuel not igniting because there isn’t a strong spark.
Thanks Stevie, thought taking the dash shroud off would be more intensive!
No problem Marc! 🤙 Right! It’s actually not too bad once you know the steps.
Both of those little doohickies in the back of the bezzles are broken on mine. What do you think-- drill it through and bolt and nut it down from the front?
Keith Gee Are the threaded plastic pieces gone? If you still have them, I would plastic weld them back on. Otherwise through booting might be your only option.
@@TheMinuteMasters you can replace the bezel from Amazon for less than $100
@@doughenson6649 Yeah I have seen new bezels for sale. I don’t know how good they are though.
Where in tarnasions did you find a full service gas satiation? I haven’t seen one since 1992😀
It’s not quite full service but in the state of New Jersey, you can’t pump your own gas. Lol
Can this switch prevent your truck from starting? Do these switches go bad?
FILTHY OAX I know if the switch isn’t plugged in your truck won’t start. If that’s the case, if the switch is bad then it could prevent the truck from starting.
Dude thank you! I just messed with this switch and my truck powered on with no problem I had the switch on REAR. FRONT tank never worked but it's on now lol
FILTHY OAX Nice! No problem dude! Yeah the switches are cheap and definitely worth replacing.
SINISTER MOB was your fuel pump still cutting on when switch wasn’t working?
I sent the tip about the ABS BLACK PLASTIC PIPE CEMENT PLUMBERS USE for soil pipe.
I have a couple of tid-bits I have to pass on. That ABS glue after using it for 50 yrs I tried everything to clean it off my hands😂 . It takes a couple of days to pick and wear it off. I bought a can to glue a rear view mirror back to gather and finally read the lable before the black glue covered the printing.
That glue hardens up over time. The solvent evaps. I looked ABS up on Wikipedia and acetone was the magic solvent. In fact it gave the recipe for ABS slurry and mentioned different colors.
One more. A product named Hercules pipe thread compound it is shellac base product and it is 10 times harder to clean off, it also hardens over time. Permatex sells it for flat machined surfaces or pipe threads. It is bar none the best thread compound. It is the best. Gasoline, lacquer thinner, fuel gas piping, m e k, acetone, detergents, only one thing after trying just about everything under the sun and it turned out to be 91 percent rubbing, alcohol. I couldn't believe it.
DON'T. use Teflon for alot of reasons, its ok for yard sprinklers, Teflon tape is on good to make orings. In a pinch. Hercules or Permatex.
I sure wish I knew the cleanup /thinning of these two products earlier
LOL Industral Pipefitter retired.
The he only point I want to make is working with these products.... Messy/nightmare to easy/and a pleasure
Ah yes! Great tip!
Interesting I didn’t know that about ABS glue. I’m on the younger end of being a master plumber but I hardly ever use ABS.
I like the bit about the Hercules pipe thread compound. I used Teflon for plumbing fixtures where required. I always used a thread compound for gas. Not Hercules though. I’ll have to pick time up. I appreciate the recommendations.
I’m always curious to hear other plumbers and piper fitters opinions on products and just installation methodology.
@@TheMinuteMasters Oh man, how does that go " Necessities the mother of invention". I have a 2014 GT-500 and the right side rear view mirror I seem to enjoy wipping it off the side of the car. I had a 2007 GT-500 that I practiced doing the same expensive past time on first. Ford put it in a fixed fairing that doesn't move..... Wait thats not true.... It moves when it breaks off the door. Originally replacement was $500 here in Kommiefornia. I took it apart it was broken at the adjusting motor inside the fixed fairing that is bolted to the door. Its hard to explain. The 3 bolts were broke off and inside the door with the ABS threaded bosses sheared off still. On the bolt. The motor with the mirror was broken from the main structure that holds the gasket, white fairing and it all stacks togeather. It broke at the weak points several places.
It is tight the wires have to be in the channel or it won't go to geather.
I drilled little holes so I could
I sent it before I finished.
So I could stich the motor and mirror back to the structure it was broken off of. There was no way I could clamp it. I have done this 3-4 times. Narrow driveway. Good as new. In fact the last time I did it I conly had to glue the 3 bolt bosses back on.
We uae ABS For residential soil systems, I think it said 50 grams of ABS pipe or fittings cut in pieces and dissolved in a jar and it was a interesting artical. PVC will do the same thing different solvent.
I never had a leak in any gas service I did. I contracted large apt buildings 60+ all sizes just the gas piping I had a couple of guys I had working.
Never not one leak using Hercules.
I was in the Fire Sprinkler Fitters, Union.... Teflon tape or dope ... Leaks plenty 9f them.
I will leave you with this. When you thread pipe. Cut the thread one full turn past the die. Thats HOW MANY THREADS. Check the depth.
Take a new fitting, when it catches turn the fitting.... 1...2....and a half turns at least.
If it doesn't cut that thread off adjust the die deeper and cut it again.
You mentioned you doin some plumbing. What I just layed out means the difference in smooth leak free joint as opposed to a joint that seezes up and leaks..
I have a dual-tank 95 f-150. I use the truck about every 6 weeks, so I blame the bad fuel pump on old gas. I have an old car that has had the same problem. This is a possible solution to the "bad" fuel-pump problem. If the gas has turned to lacquer, it can act like glue that keeps
the fuel pump from "humming" momentarily with key-on. I measured the voltage at the tank selector switch, and initially there is battery 12 volts, then the voltage drops to 10.5 volts for normal driving down the road. To begin, I gain access to the switch, remove it's connector, and looking at the connector, the left-center connection is the 12 volt supply to the tank pumps. (key-on, 12 volts dropping to 10.5v) The front tank is bottom left, rear tank is top left. I ohm to chassis ground, (cheap Harbor Freight digital meter) to find close to zero ohms for the working pump, and a higher reading to the non-working pump circuit. (I had 14 ohms) I supplied 24 (yes, 24) volts momentarily to the terminal for the bad pump. The 24 volts gives added power to overcome the stuck pump. Emphasis: apply 24 volts BRIEFLY to hear the pump hum. Reconnect the tank switch, key on/off while checking that each tank pump hums for 1 second. No need to replace an otherwise
good pump with all of the hassle, nor replacing the tank selector switch just to see if it would fix the problem.
More info: When removing the two trim pieces to gain access to the T-20 torx screws, each trim broke into two pieces. I used epoxy for plastic to glue the back-side of those trim pieces. However, later on, I replaced those shabby-looking pieces with two pieces of mahogany, by drilling holes in the exact location to match the torx screw holes, using longer screws of the same diameter (number 8, I think). The stained mahogany looks much better than the faded plastic strips. The new wood strips and screws are sturdy enough to hold the dash in place.
Another test: Just replacing the tank selector switch to see if it "fixes" the non-working pump problem is unnecessary if you have an ohm-meter. Measure the center terminals to the upper and lower switch terminals, on-off-on-off, to see zero ohms, repeatedly, between the two
switch terminal sets. It's a double-pole, double-throw switch. Anything other than zero ohms is bad. Replace an intermittent switch.
I modified the switch setup such that my switch is not mounted on the backside of the dash, but mounted on the front-side with two screws
showing. I can now remove the switch with a screwdriver. There is about 4 inches of extra wiring that can be pulled through the dash hole for access. I enlarged the rectangular switch hole on the left-hand side to accommodate the switch. I had removed the big switch mounting tabs originally used, and used the two small tabs toward the front side of the switch that weren't used in the original installation. No more removing the dash for future problems. I'd like to show a pix of the completed setup, but I can't figure out how to do that.
Good write up my man!! Thank you!!
@@TheMinuteMasters I forgot to say that I have a battery charger that 24 volts can be selected to use from chassis ground to the associated terminal at the tank switch connector. Otherwise, connect two 12 batteries in series to jolt the offending pump.
How could I jump my switch temporarily until new switch comes in ? Always run on back tank then it died & wont start. Neither pump gives me the 1 second run indicator sound. Thanks
@@JimZoeller I suppose you could find a wiring diagram and use a jumper clip to manual make the same connections as the switch.
I have a 1993 Ford F-150 300 CID, dual gas tanks, cranks doesn't start. Replaced coil, distributor, computer ( twice ). Truck will start & run, but dies after 30 minutes. Suggestions ?
I would go through the air, fuel, spark triangle and eliminate potential issues.
Air: Filter, speed density sensor, IAC, PCV, EGR, vacuum lines, O2 sensor, catalytic converter.
Fuel: pumps, fuel filter, FPR, and injectors. Also, charcoal box.
Spark: ignition coil, distributor, cap, rotor, wires, spark plugs.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks !!
@@xzqzq No problem George! 🤙 Let me know how it works out!
Thanks for the helpful video! I noticed the silver toggle switch to the right of the instrument panel. Doesn't look OEM. My truck has it too but what is it for?
Roberto Santiago Rodriguez No problem man! 🤙 So that switch is for the KC Cyclone light under my hood. A lot of guys mount switches in that area because it’s a great location for one. Your switch could be installed for a variety of reasons. I’ve seen switches there for auxiliary lights/light bars & pods, radiator fans, back lights, interior lights, etc. I’ve since moved that switch under the hood to make it more convenient to access while under the hood.
I have a 1994 Lighting and my tank in front holds 18 gallons and my rear tank holds 38 gallons Factory tanks I might add. Also when I run out on my front tank it's 0ut and don't keep running on the rear tank. I've had a bunch of these old Fords and None of 'em ever done like you said.......keep run'n off of the rear tank. Never heard of this before.
Ex-Law Enforcement Very nice! A lot of guys retrofit a bronco tank into a f150 to get that larger rear tank.
My truck never had that problem either.
They don't. This video is wrong about a lot of stuff
I have a 1988 Ford F-150 dual tanks but the back works front doesn't don't know why
Do you can one of two issues. A) this switch no longer works. B) one of your fuel pumps is bad.
With the older brick and bullnose fords, i’m told there’s a selector valve somewhere on the frame rail underneath the cab. That could also cause an issue.
I have a 92 F250 my switch went out twice on auto zone switch hoping a dealer Ford switch works longer
Jaime Cervera I never knew auto zone carried them. I can’t remember what brand mines is but I bought it off amazon. You should be good with the genuine Ford part.
This always best to use the Motorcraft Switch, and allot of Motorcraft Parts can be bought on Amazon.com and at very lower prices than at the Dealerships. I know as I'm a former Ford Parts Manager, and have bought most all Ford Motorcraft Parts now on Amazon.com.
If the switch is bad would i still hear the fuel pump kick on or would that be gone as well?
Rj Guerra Depends When the switch goes bad or is removed, the pumps don’t turn on. So if the switch is bad as in it don’t flow the correct current to power the pumps, then the pumps won’t turn on. I hope that makes sense.
The Minute Masters So another question if the fuel pump is going bad would i still hear it turn on ex. Low fuel on front tank truck gives a lot of trouble to start but after cycling the key several times i guess to build up pressure it turns on. I can hear both pumps turning on but once the front tank gets low the rear tank wont start the truck unless i cycle several times and keep trying to start it could that rear pump be bad?
Yes, a fuel pump can start to go bad, which means it doesn't pump well. It will still turn on and make the buzzing noise. It does sound like you need a new fuel pump. Make the job easier on yourself and watch my video about how to add an access hatch for your fuel tank.
How long does it take for tanks to swich from one to the other?
I have a 1982 ford F150 XLT lariet.
Reason why i am asking is it takes awhile for mine to change over.From front to back or back to front.
I have noticed it goes past E then back up to how much in tank.
Also does it have to take and drain the fuel from one tank back into it then read tank i have selected?
readybaby dfifdksuoh Once you flip the switch it should start drawing fuel from that tank instantly. It takes a few seconds for the gauge to adjust to the fuel level in that tank though. For example, if I reach a 1/4 in the front tank and I switch to the rear tank, the gauge needs a second or two to move to the Full mark. If I switch back to the front tank (which is 1/4) from the full rear tank, the gauge will need a couple seconds to move back to the 1/4 mark.
You can use ABS black plastic glue, what plumbers use. Cut a fitting or piece of pipe. Heat it up and flatten it, what ever.
I pulled apart my 1989 F250’s fuel diverter switch. It was working fine with good free flow of gas from front and rear tank lines. After putting everything back together, the diverter showed the full rear tank but the half full front tank (so the sensor works.) But once the dashboard switch is flipped to rear tank, the truck stalls out within 2-3 minutes. Where else should I check.
Marshall Dressel So believe it or not but I’ve seen the switch go bad after being pulled out. Or, the new switch was defective. If both pumps are working fine, the switch is usually the culprit. However, you can also check your fuses and relays. I can’t remember if both pumps are on the same relay. Assuming the switch and fuel pumps are working properly, I would check the fuses and relays.
Very late but is there a way to manually switch the tanks? Or a way to trick the switch into switching? My fuel pump is over heating on the rear tank and I dont have the time ir money to actually mess with the switch at the moment
KillerKlown690 I’m sure there’s a way to manually connect the wires behind the switch. However that switch is the connection point for a lot of other fuel related wires. If you would go through the trouble to manually switch the wires then you’ll have most of the work completed to swap the switch out. The switch is around $15. Is your fuel pump that is overheating immersed in fuel? Fuel is what will keep the pump cool. As long as you have fuel in that tank, your pump shouldn’t burn out.
How do u pump gas if u want to fill both ?
I’m assuming to fill the front tank switch has to be to front ?
There are two separate fuel filler openings. So I just fill up like any usual truck.
@@TheMinuteMasters the back tank filled up no problem, the front one would stop the pump 3 seconds in, my question is does the switch have to be on front to fill the front one up? Or does that not matter at all?
Thanks for the speedy response man fr, I was at the gas station for like 10 mins googling stuff, but gave up cause didn’t want to mess nothing up.
@@ricardotrejo8640 That’s weird. I had one gas station do that to me but it was only that pump. It doesn’t matter what tank the switch is on. You can fill them in any order. Two things can gas back pressure into the tank and prevent filling the tanks full. Each tank has a vent valve that is piped to a charcoal box in the engine bay. Either the vent valve can go bad or the charcoal box can get clogged over time. I have a video on how to change the vent valve.
I would honestly try filling up at a different pump and also try insert the actual pump differently. Like not all the way in or angle the pump up. If this consistently happens no matter the pump, then I would replace the vent valve and then the charcoal box.
My 92 f150 has a fluctuating gas gauge like when I put it in gear it goes to full but when I back up it swings like crazy to empty this happened with a old gauge cluster I had before I upgraded to a tachometer and it still does it with the "new" gauge cluster you think it's the sending unit? Or just the gauge itself?
That's very odd! I've never see that happen. I know my fuel gauge will fluctuate do to the incline of the truck. (It reads high going up hill and low going down hill.) You either have a bad sending unit or a wire that's wires weird. Post your problem to "ford truck enthusiasts'" forum and see what the members say. Otherwise, it sounds like a sending unit.
Actually, does the gauge fluctuate weird for both tanks? Each tank had a sending unit. I can't imagine both would be weird.
@@TheMinuteMasters Actually it does do that with both tanks Ill try my luck on there because right now the gauge just dropped to empty even tho the trucks on with the first tank ill try to take a video of it but right now i"m waiting on a new phone.
@@adrianbautista7815 That is so weird! See what the forums say. Otherwise, try replacing one of the sending units. If that doesn't fix it, then you problem is with the gauge cluster. I've also heard people replace the fuel tank selector switch and that has fixed weird problems.
@@TheMinuteMasters hmm ill try taking apart the gauge cluster again and see what happens if not one thing at a time because This is bugging me I appreciate the help though.
Adrian Bautista Yeah check the gauge cluster. You definitely have a stray wire somewhere.
Minute master- when I switch to my rear tank my truck quickly dies. Would replacing the switch be a possible fix ?
Reef Junkie That sounds like the fuel pump in your rear tank is bad. Does the rear tank normally empty?
Possibly or the control motor or the pump or the tank itself
Reef junkie. Did you ever figure out the problem.i have the same problem but mine dies when I switch it to the front
@@kronikillnessproductions4409 replace the filter, switch, and selector valves. It's one of the three and they all go really easy. May as well replace them all and never worry again
I had an issue where the truck would run poorly when I started it up on the front tank but if you used the rear tank and then switched to the front it ran OK as it turned out the fuel pump was weak and not holding pressure and that also allowed it to pump fuel between the tanks and overflow on one tank..Usually if the filter is plugged it will run crappy all the time unless there is crap in the tank and that's not the filter. Don't know if the switches fail but it's a cheap fix and it might work. Don't know about selector valves not saying it doesn't have one but the shop didn't mention it. The fuel pump cost 500 dollars plus install must be made of gold oops motorcraft genuine parts
Never let your gas run low I read that the fuel pump in the tank gets cooled by the gas and overheats when you run it on low fuel alot.
ingl wud You are correct man! I never drai my tank less than the last quarter for that reason.
You can get by just fine with Fords on that feature, but you'll burn up a Chevy the first time. I try not to let mine get that low, but it has happened countless times with no problems. My first and only chevy, which was a 99 Tahoe burned out the second day I owned it.
Not true
Excellent Job, This Helped Out Tremendously 👌
Johnshaft1970 Thanks! I’m glad you liked it!!🤙
The Minute Masters Yessir, i'm gonna tackle it tomorrow ..... mine is completely pushed in too so i'll either have to glue it, modify it, or buy a new one because the tabs may be broken off ..... we'll see 😃
Johnshaft1970 Nice! Good luck!👍
I noticed at 2:34 that you have an unmarked toggle switch on the dash. I have one of those but the guy I bought the truck from didn't know what it's function was. What does yours do? Thanks
So it’s not a stock switch. It turns on my under hood KC Cyclone light. I have a video showing how to install it. You’ll have to check and see what yours controls. Do you have auxiliary lights on your truck?
wildcatdaddy1
Great explanation 5hanks
No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
i got 93 f150. my fuel pump not turning on so i check the fuses and now today i tool off the fuel tank selector switch and i am looking around and the wiring harness idk if theres any power going to the fuel pump. i replaced the fuel pump last year one tank and fuel filter.
armando foo The switch could be bad if everything else works. I’d check to make sure you are getting proper voltage to the pump.
So you said that the rear tank will drain into the front tank over time...My problem is that my front tank is not working, and the gas from my rear tank backfills my front tank, and I end up having to syphon it out.... can you tell me how this transfer from rear to front takes place?
thanks
Joe Tocchini So I haven't experienced this problem before, but from what I remember researching on ford truck enthusiast forum, there's a check valve that goes bad. This causes the gas to back fill to other tanks. I don't know where the check valve is located, but I think changing one of the fuel pumps fixes the problem.
Common problem. Go to Ford-Trucks.com and find the 1987-1996 F150 forum, there are tech tips there.
Han Skinslo What he said^^
Joe Tocchini what year do you have. Mine is a 1996 and the shuttle valve got stuck in the OPEN position so when the fuel would return to the front tank instead of the rear. All you need is a FDM (fuel delivery module) basically a fuel pump. And your set. Mine filled the front tank and dumped fuel everywhere too. Just replace the front gas tank pump
SCHOLET'S firearm mechanics so this is what mine is doing. I had the front tank fuel pump changed and now the rear tank is overfilling and leaking out the around the gas cap. Cross fill problems I guess. So all I need to do is change the fuel pump in the rear tank and that will fix the problem?
My switch is loose but it works and my front tank is full but reads empty
Then the fuel sending unit is bad or the fuel float has filled with gas and sunk to the bottom. I’m either instance, I would replace the entire fuel pump assembly.
Just saved me a ton of money. Where do I send your check?
Bruce Chumley Haha!! Glad I could help!👍
What was your problem?
Make a silicon mold of a good screw stud, then apply over the broken one, and inject epoxy.
That’s an idea!👌
Hey... I have a correction
It's Hercules brand the name of it is "grip". 74 yrs old and today I got up and thought it was Monday, it was Sunday.
I am working on my Dual gas tank 1993 F-250.
DON'T use it, Loose it. I must be loosing it.
I am finished now. "GRIP"
I’ll look for it! Thanks!
Hahahaha! It happens to the best of us.
I have a !990 f150 When I go to the rear tank it goes dead.What do u thank it is ???Thanks
Sounds like your pump is bad. I’d swap it out.
@@TheMinuteMasters The pump and tank r new
@@Rolaids65 Did you replace only the pump or the entire pump and sending unit assembly?
You can try replacing your switch. That’s the only other variable.
@@TheMinuteMasters The entire pump and tank the starp made it leak.Why did u replace your Switch ?? Was it because it was loose?????
@@Rolaids65 I replaced both tanks due to leaks, I replaced the front pump because it failed, and I replaced the switch because it was getting loose and the lettering was faded.
1981 Ford f150 custom has a Dual tank set up. I am going to have to learn it since I just bought a field sitting truck
J. R. Thompson It’s not too difficult. The extra tank is handy, and as long as both pumps, and the selector switch are in good working order. You will have no issues.
2:10 What is the toggle switch for??
I added that for the engine bay light. I’ve since moved the switch to the engine bay.
Broo, your videos are very helpful as i have like the sane yesr truck (1995 f150) can you make a video showing how to fix the gear reader (not sure if thats what its called, but is has the PRND for park, reverse, neutral, drive) well it inly stays on park and i have to count down to thee to get it in drive.
Do you know what im talking about?
oscar valdez Thanks man! I’m glad they help! I know exactly what you are talking about. The orange peg that points to whatever gear you are in. Used to have to point my shifter at N to be in D.
All it is a thin wire that connects to the shifter handle and then to the peg. If yours doesn’t move at all. It probably means that wire is broken. If it doesn’t point at the right letter, then there is a little adjustment wheel.
Have 94 f150 dual tanks. When topped off while running rear tank front tank over fills cant find a selector valve anywhere on frame would the problem be in the switch
Lance Coker The switch can be the problem. If the switch doesn’t fix it, it’s still a cheap part to start with. After that, you would have to start changing fuel pump assemblies.
Sorry to tell you I had the same issue it was the fuel pump not holding enough pressure in the system. There also was a recall on those trucks about the fuel system. That is probably your problem and yes it's expensive if you have a shop do it. I put mine in for the fuel pumping out issue. That is how I know :)
stephen eckles No problem man! 🤙 I’m glad you found the problem with your fuel system! Yeah I have heard about that recall. I’m not sure if Ford will honor recalls on 25 year old trucks. Good luck though!
@@TheMinuteMasters mine is all fixed now but it hurt :)
stephen eckles Yeah it always hurts but it’s one less thing to worry about.🤙
Does anyone know the difference between needing to replace just the switch or the need to replace the fuel filter?
My truck was set to front tank for years, then suddenly wouldnt start despite having gas in the tank.
Then I switched to rear and its starts.
Given, the switch is old ans sticky, wont switch with ease, you have to pound it.
I was told by a friend it just needs a new selector switch.
If thats the case, why would my front tank stop working after years of using only front tank... only to start on the rear tank alone?
Both tanks run through one fuel filter. If the fuel filter was the issue, you would have an issue with both tanks. The best way to figure out if your issues with a fuel pump is to turn your truck on and select one of the tanks. Typically if you put your ear to your fuel tank, you can hear it buzzing. Otherwise replacing the switch is fairly cheap when compared to replacing a pump.
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you for your help. I will try replacing the switch first... then listen for that buzzing.
I have a 1990 Ford F150 that dumps all of my fuel from my rear tank to my front tank.
My rear tank & pump are brand new, front tank & pump are old, & do not work.
I've searched hi & lo for a fuel tank selector valve, but I promise, I don't see one anywhere, period.
I was told there has to be one somewhere.. But for the life of me, there is not one on my truck.
Could it be that I have a faulty fuel tank switch? Would that switch cause my rear tank to dump all of my fuel into the front tank?
I've put my old fuel pump check valve on the new pump.
If the switch isn't the issue, or there is a fuel tank selector valve hidden in one of those hard to find places, then what could be the issue?
Is there a fuel tank switch relay?
If so, would you happen to know where these things are located..
I'm really stuck.. I put $50.00 in my rear tank, went 5 miles, came back almost empty.
Please help, this is a heavy concern..
Thanks in advance..
Dee 1 Well good news this is a common problem with these trucks. As far as I know there isn’t a fuel selector switch or backflow valve.
I usual see these problems when some part of the entire fuel system isn’t working. In this case, I would install a new fuel tank selector switch. After that, I would replace the front tank pump.
If you take care of those two things, you should be good to go.
Check out my front fuel tank access hatch videos to see how I replace the front tank pump without dropping the tank.
Good luck man! 🤙 Let me know how it goes.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thank u so much!
U have made my day, really man..
I just came in from looking again...ugh.
So get a switch, tank, & a pump, then problem solved..
I don't see anything else could be, because there definitely is no valve anywhere, nor does it look like one was removed by the previous owner, it just isn't setup for one, anywhere..
Put me in a nervous wreck..
I'm ordering the switch now...
So apparently, the switch does more than just switch the tanks, it seems to act as a valve as well, because it does switch the tanks, but it must be faulty in preventing back flow as you say....
It has to be that, can't be anything else..
Thanks a million..
I really appreciate u, u have no idea!
Dee 1 No problem man! 🤙 Glad I could help ya out! Replace the switch first. It’s the cheapest.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks!
Its a recall on those trucks with that problem...I just seen it on another video
Da M&M how would you jump that button to see if its yur problem with yur tanks ?
Jason Smith Good question! I’ve never actually tried that but I would think you would need a wiring diagram. Then you could see what wire powers what. The trouble is you would end up cutting your harness in order to jump the system. If your button doesn’t look really great, then I would just get a new one. They’re pretty cheap and it cleans up the dash.
@@TheMinuteMastersI'll guess a paper clip from the back of the switch when I learn the wires? Thanks!
Jason Smith Thats should do the trick! Just don’t shock yourself. 🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters I will have on rubber gloves and I will shrink wrap the paper clip.
Jason Smith Perfect man! You have the right idea!🤙
Thank you
Is their a fuse for the fuel tank selector switch on a 1987 chevy silveradoo
kevin plotner There is a relay for the fuel pumps for sure. You would need to check your fuse panel to see if there is a fuse for the selector switch. The back side of the fuse panel usually has an index that identifies the fuses. Otherwise, the owners manual has the guide for identifying the fuses.
We replaced the switch in our 1994 f450 superduty and now we have a problem where there is no current going to the switch. are there any fuses that could be possibly connected to this switch that we could replace
bulletfingrz If you have a Haynes manual ( I would get one if you don’t have one) look to see if there is a fuse in the fuse panel related to the fuel system. I do believe there are fuel pump relays under the hood. Check those things and see what you find.
I looked for the Haynes manual and it appears that they don't have it for my truck. Also I found some diagrams that other people have posted and found all the relays and fuses but non of them seem to be blown or are having problems. I am not even sure what is happening. I changed the switch and the next day it wasn't getting any power to it anymore... thanks for the help. Also Subbed
bulletfingrz Ok. It sounds like you have a bad connection somewhere. Either a cut wire or loose connection. That’s all I can think of now.
I've got a 91 F150 xlt lariat. When I switch it to my rear tank my gauge doesn't even move and the truck dies after a little bit, then I switch it back to the front and the Guage still doesn't move.
Daniel Hanson Nice! 🤙 If it dies on one of the tanks then you need to replace the fuel pump in that tank. If the gauge doesn’t read for another tank then it’s the fuel level indicator that is malfunctioning. The fuel level is measured with a float. The original Ford fuel floats are two pieces of brass pushed together to form a mini beer can. The two halves eventually let fuel inside and it sinks to the bottom of the tank. Without actually knowing that’s the case, it’s better to just replace the fuel pump entirely. Check out my fuel pump access hatch videos. The hatch allows you to access your fuel pumps without dropping the tanks.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thank you for your help! I'll fiddle around with it some more!
Daniel Hanson No problem man! 🤙 Good luck and Happy Easter!
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks again! Happy Easter to you as well 😀
What do you recommend when we switch it to the other tank but nothing happens? Is it a sensor?
Nikki Nik First make sure both fuel tanks are full. Then flip the switch to either tank. If the gauge doesn’t change it could be the switch. If the gauge reads low no matter how full the tanks are, then the float on the fuel pump has filled with fuel. This sinks the float to the bottom of the tank and makes it read low.
The Minute Masters thanks for the fast response! The rear one is working. The front shows full (which the tank is) but when we’re driving and have the switch on front it’s still pulling gas from the rear. When we switch to rear we see that the gas was used from that one. Hope that made sense.
Nikki Nik That’s weird. It seems like the wrong pump is being signaled to pump. In this case the signal for the front pump activated the rear. I can’t exactly tell you what is causing that but you could put a new switch in and see what happens. After all a new elector switch is pretty cheap. After that there is a check valve in the fuel system that sometimes gets messed up, which will cause the one tank to pump fuel into the other.
HONESTO UNO Has to be a bad pump. Either the pump is clogged or not functioning
@@TheMinuteMasters Because it's not the switch on the dash at all. You're watching the wrong video
That's not the pump I'm talking about the pump that on the engine . And it dual tank it has a fuel tank selector if that is damage it's not the cause on that part. I said it stulls out new fuel pump in.
Now thinking the fuel switch inside .
Gotcha. Yeah I would try replacing the switch. It’s a cheap part.
Very helpful videos, thx
Carter S Thanks! Glad you liked it!👍
If the tank is empty, will you still hear the pump? If the rear tank is empty and you switch to rear, will the truck die or will it siphon from front?
Travis Freeman If a tank is empty the pump shouldn’t be running. The truck automatically pumps from the tank that is full.
How long is it to take for tanks to swich from one to the other?
I have a 1982 ford F150 XLT lariet.
Reason why i am asking is it takes awhile for mine to change over.
From front to back or back to front.
I have noticed it goes to past E then back up to how much in tank.
Also does it have to take and drain the fuel from one tank back into it then read tank i have selected?
Gonna die
Anyone have any idea..i have a 79 Ford e150 chateau dual tanks. Crank no start. Checked fuel gauge not working at all..no power on fuel pump either. New battery/oil&filter/air filter/sparks. 😪 What should I check/replace?
Ali Olmedo I’ve heard bad fuel tank selector switch or bad relay can cause this problem. Just trace back from the fuel pump and check everything along the way.
The Minute Masters I’ll definitely look into it. It’s been driving me crazy. Thanks for the reply/info. 👍🏼
Ali Olmedo No problem man! 🤙 Good luck!
my 97 has one right now it fell in how do i get it back out to fix it
You will need to remove the dash bezel. Once you have it off you will see your switch.
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah got pushed in wards so now just sitting there pushed back thanks
Sir Graves Nice!
No problem man!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you sir
Also the truck won't run without the switch plugged in so it can't be missing only relocated
In the not to far-off future , with the dumbing down of progressive higher learning , Ford will call this
guy for info. on 92-95 F-150.
How do you know if it works though??
Ghost Jr I cycled through the tanks and made sure the gauge read different levels. So one tank would be full and one half. Flipping the switch should show the different levels on the gauge.
The Minute Masters wow thanks man I didn’t think I was going to get a quick response. Thanks again 🙏🏼 🙏🏼💯
Ghost Jr No problem man! Thanks for watching!🤙
I just want to switch mine because the lettering is old
That’s exactly why I did it. Plus the mounts behind it needed repair.
how to install fuel pump and gas switch change
so what was the reasoning for changing this?
INDIANA SPORTSMAN87 My switch was a bit loose because one of the mounting screw tabs was cracked. The switch was also dirty and the letters were rubbed off. So figured I’d just swap it out with a new switch.
How do you straight wire it
Like without a switch?
Does anybody know if you’re able to add a 2nd tank to a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT ?
Yeah you could I see guys in the rigs do it but they keep the second one in the bed
Build a bed tool box style cover for it.
For some reason is the new switches don’t last that long The original switches I believe work much better
Did you replace your original with a new one?
Can't tell u how many times truck has died from a tank being out
There's no automatic switch over on a 93 150....you run it out it's out...when you switch over...give it a second for the other tank pump to engage
Jason Fryer That sucks! I never run my tanks dry so I use the switch to swap to the rear tank once the front is 1/4 left. But I remember when I ran one tank dry and was stranded. Not fun.
Being on a shoestring budget alott if times dictates that poeple use every drop they have ..unfortunately in the long run ..ruins the pump itself. ( Crud in tank). Which costs aLOT more to fix and I feel for single mothers. In that predicament
Jason Fryer Yeah that’s true! It must be tough for them.
The more I know. 👍🏻
I have a 1994 and it only has one tank
Cool! I have heard that there were some OBS that came with a single tank but I don’t know how often that was.
It's a 1994 flairside
@@tylerstevens3950 Ah! That makes sense. The flare sides were only 1 tank.
This nigga said “the fuel pumps on these trucks this age will go bad and if it hasn’t, it will”. Well damit, mine went out today while driving. I hope that i can simply fill the rear tank and keep going because I had to abandon it at some plaza until tomorrow.
Pray for me folks
Watch my video on how to cut an access hatch to the fuel pump. It makes replacing them, a 5 minute job.🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters bro, you’re amazing! Thank you greatly
@@Devoneakapimp Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate you watching my videos!
CA glue and baking soda
J. R. Thompson Does that bond/weld plastic?
@@TheMinuteMasters I learned that little tip from Sweet Project Cars channel, They have a lot of great advice to help the DIYer. I have used it a couple times and it has worked extremely well. Super glue and baking soda.
J. R. Thompson Cool! I’ll have to try it! Thanks for sharing!🤙
Jbweld or epoxy would be way better
I agree. I’ve since gone back and plastic welded new screw mounts to the back.
easier to unplug it and then take off the switch
He didnt show that it works. So this isnt no help... lmao
Do I need to show that it works?
Yes please
Show that it switches from front tank to back tank.
@@leolbenwayjr6561 Oh it switches back and forth. I’ve been using that same switch for 50,000 miles now.
Yeah mines messed up it wont switch to my rear tank . Plus my gas gauge dont work.cant find parts very easy for my 89 custom.
Thank you
danna martin No problem! Glad you enjoyed it!