i recently got a secondhand 1080 and was experiencing crashes. i dismantled it to see if there were any issues and there was 1 pad and it was broken. this video shows me theres supposed to be more. what was the thickness of the pads you used to replace it?
I applied liquid metal to this and lost around 10-12C, real difference might be around 6-8 as dust and old paste contributed to worse temps. Clocks are more stable and a bit higher as well now. I am going to give a short tutorial on what I did.
I just did regular MSI 1080 with liquid metal similar way I wrote in my other comment (no saturation this time cos dude wanted the card ASAP) the temps at benchmarks at all stock and 100% fan speed went from 73 to 53°C, 75 to 55C, all around it was essentially a 20°C drop, at stock fan control it was around 7-8C drop and 22-24% slower fan speeds. I should say the card was never opened so paste was bad, I applied new gelid ultimate pads (1.5mm ones have to be squished down before you install cooler otherwise they put up too much resistance and pressure on screws). I do multiple tests, firestrike, heaven, furmark, last light, shadow of tomb etc. to test a bit wider variety and all around a huge drop in temps, 20C is pretty much one of bigger drops you can see, quite usual on older cards that werent repasted. This makes me think of that 1080 Ti I mentioned in the previous comment where I explain how I apply LM, and I am pretty sure it was opened before so it probably was repasted at some point, the paste was probably quite alright only 2-3 years old I guess and the 10-12C difference was then mostly the LM performance. It would make sense since the bench temps are more or less the same and these cards are very similar, only around 15-20% more power on the Ti.
Se eu quiser acessar apenas a parte que faz a troca da pasta térmica , tenho que remover todos os parafusos do blackplate também? Ou bastam apenas os 4 ao centro, assim como fazem na gtx 1070 ti da MSI ? Eu queria só trocar a pasta termica por outra melhor pra ver se baixava a temperatura.
You should try phase-change material Honeywell PTM7950. It comes in as a sheet, lasts longer, performs works better than traditional pastes and there is no pump-out effect. For the power section (vrm) and vrams, I advise you to apply thermal putty Upsiren UX Pro.
![[Restoration] Heavily corroded MSI 1080Ti (Slow pace vid) - Part 1](/img/1.gif)
I measured my pads.
Best graphic card Nvidia ever did....
Thanks for the video.
i recently got a secondhand 1080 and was experiencing crashes. i dismantled it to see if there were any issues and there was 1 pad and it was broken. this video shows me theres supposed to be more. what was the thickness of the pads you used to replace it?
I applied liquid metal to this and lost around 10-12C, real difference might be around 6-8 as dust and old paste contributed to worse temps. Clocks are more stable and a bit higher as well now. I am going to give a short tutorial on what I did.
can i use arctic mx4 or mx6 as thermal paste , is it a good choice for this hefty card ?
I just did regular MSI 1080 with liquid metal similar way I wrote in my other comment (no saturation this time cos dude wanted the card ASAP) the temps at benchmarks at all stock and 100% fan speed went from 73 to 53°C, 75 to 55C, all around it was essentially a 20°C drop, at stock fan control it was around 7-8C drop and 22-24% slower fan speeds. I should say the card was never opened so paste was bad, I applied new gelid ultimate pads (1.5mm ones have to be squished down before you install cooler otherwise they put up too much resistance and pressure on screws). I do multiple tests, firestrike, heaven, furmark, last light, shadow of tomb etc. to test a bit wider variety and all around a huge drop in temps, 20C is pretty much one of bigger drops you can see, quite usual on older cards that werent repasted. This makes me think of that 1080 Ti I mentioned in the previous comment where I explain how I apply LM, and I am pretty sure it was opened before so it probably was repasted at some point, the paste was probably quite alright only 2-3 years old I guess and the 10-12C difference was then mostly the LM performance. It would make sense since the bench temps are more or less the same and these cards are very similar, only around 15-20% more power on the Ti.
Quais thermalpd você usou ?
Thx
Hi, thanks for the video. I have a question can you tell me the correct thickness of thermal pads?
why didnt u change the vrm pads ?
Are 1080 and 1080 ti basically the same for this?
Se eu quiser acessar apenas a parte que faz a troca da pasta térmica , tenho que remover todos os parafusos do blackplate também? Ou bastam apenas os 4 ao centro, assim como fazem na gtx 1070 ti da MSI ? Eu queria só trocar a pasta termica por outra melhor pra ver se baixava a temperatura.
You should try phase-change material Honeywell PTM7950. It comes in as a sheet, lasts longer, performs works better than traditional pastes and there is no pump-out effect. For the power section (vrm) and vrams, I advise you to apply thermal putty Upsiren UX Pro.
Also what pads did you use?
is it always necessary to replace the thermal pads?
These kind of video's are quite useless if you don't show before and after temps! 🙄🙄
And tell me what is the thickness of the thermal pads