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This was my dream phone back in mid 2015 and I wanted it so badly as my main in titanium grey. I wanted the model as GT-i9300 but no carrier branding like this one from O2. I even wanted to have a look so badly with the box titanium grey colour for it as well but never had the chance and my dream never came true. Memories!

se puede cambiar la grafica por una superior?

How much for replacing s20 ultra camera?

No way did you not attach the filter to the pump hose. Pointless

I don't own an MSI laptop, but this was very entertaining and informative! Thanks (the GTA IV music was a nice touch too)

Thanks, clear and concise.

How can change??

Use gloves , diesel stinks Don't forget to check inside for debris, Dont start car , on off ignition 2-3 times , then start

iPhone battery before being replaced should be discharged below 20% because if charged lithium-ion battery accidentally damaged or punctured, it can cause fire or even explode! Because if iPhone stuck on the Apple logo, there's no way to determine battery level, it is safest to wait until iPhone turns itself off due to low battery.

Make sure you top up the housing with diesel first

Quais thermalpd você usou ?

Thx

Watching this on my LG G3, thank god my G3 isn't affected by the bootlooop. I heard some users are affected by the bootlooop. We shouldn't blame LG because every phones have bootlooop even iPhones. Cause of bootloop is faulty hardware and yes the faulty battery caused this iPhone to bootlooop.

Best graphic card Nvidia ever did....

If the battery is 12 years old, and it only turns on between charges and you replace a battery and it does the same thing. Do you think this is unfixable?

I have that phone too in gold color

Teomo ❤

After i change for a new battery IT keep bootlooping is IT because IT the battery?

can i use arctic mx4 or mx6 as thermal paste , is it a good choice for this hefty card ?

why didnt u change the vrm pads ?

Yup, what he said below. Pour the diesel back in from filter!

I just did regular MSI 1080 with liquid metal similar way I wrote in my other comment (no saturation this time cos dude wanted the card ASAP) the temps at benchmarks at all stock and 100% fan speed went from 73 to 53°C, 75 to 55C, all around it was essentially a 20°C drop, at stock fan control it was around 7-8C drop and 22-24% slower fan speeds. I should say the card was never opened so paste was bad, I applied new gelid ultimate pads (1.5mm ones have to be squished down before you install cooler otherwise they put up too much resistance and pressure on screws). I do multiple tests, firestrike, heaven, furmark, last light, shadow of tomb etc. to test a bit wider variety and all around a huge drop in temps, 20C is pretty much one of bigger drops you can see, quite usual on older cards that werent repasted. This makes me think of that 1080 Ti I mentioned in the previous comment where I explain how I apply LM, and I am pretty sure it was opened before so it probably was repasted at some point, the paste was probably quite alright only 2-3 years old I guess and the 10-12C difference was then mostly the LM performance. It would make sense since the bench temps are more or less the same and these cards are very similar, only around 15-20% more power on the Ti.

Plz provide the link to buy and reply.

Hi lg phones are not supported no more

Pls provide the link to buy

Want to see if it's good enough to navigate using Google maps outdoors activities

И тут Штирлиц никогда так не был близок к провалу!))

These kind of video's are quite useless if you don't show before and after temps! 🙄🙄

i recently got a secondhand 1080 and was experiencing crashes. i dismantled it to see if there were any issues and there was 1 pad and it was broken. this video shows me theres supposed to be more. what was the thickness of the pads you used to replace it?

You need to add some gasoline after putting the new filter or else it won't start.

Do you just screw the bottom part and then it pops off

I applied liquid metal to this and lost around 10-12C, real difference might be around 6-8 as dust and old paste contributed to worse temps. Clocks are more stable and a bit higher as well now. I am going to give a short tutorial on what I did. First cleaned the die, sanded the die down with 600 sandpaper just a little, then 1000 and 2000, so the LM gets saturated more easily into the structure of the die without the shiny finish coating that is at the top. Apllied a bit of LM to both die and the cooler copper plate onto the contact area. Left it there for 48hrs. This is just a saturation phase, the LM isn't for final application. Cleaned LM off, applied 3 coats of clear acrylate nail polish over the pins around the die, first coat directly over the pins without going much to the sides, next coats a bit more wider so they cover over the previous coats and + a bit more area to the sides. I then applied the very squishy mesh fabric over the pins, I just buy ebay ear muffs which are made from such squishy polyurethane material, it acts like a barrier for the LM in case it spills (which it in my case does as I apply a bit more as its better than not applying enough and not seeing results). It goes around the whole die and is higher than the die, around 2-3mm higher which is fine as it can squish down, it's just important that it has space to squish down so it should be pretty much center, otherwise it might get stuck between cooler and the die or the railing thing which is around the die. I secure in place with loctite superglue, and again it goes over the pins, around the whole die in a way that it can squish down easily and not get stuck on anything between the cooler plate. This acts like a barrier obviously for the LM, it protects the gpu pcb board, not and the pins are protected by acrylate nail polish, both can withstand high temps that are regular for gpu. Last thing to do is applying the actual LM coat, I apply a tiny bit on the copper plate, spread it around with ear swap, then apply more onto the die itself so it's nicely watery without any dry spots, its a bit more watery than people usually recommend but I am done applying "just enough" which can sometimes turn into "not enough" where you then see little to no results. At that point is assembly, this has to be done slowly and carefully without forgetting any cables and placing it precisely how it should be, also carefully with any torn pieces of thermal pads as those can stack up on each other creating a gap, if they're torn they should be scraped off and placed on the components so they have around the same height as they should have, I never replace those, rarely if they're too damaged only, as I never saw much improvement replacing all with new ones. I guess that's about it, die and copper saturation, protection of pins, anti-spill protection, application and careful assembly. It takes a bit of time but this way I sometimes had amazing results with both cpus and gpus, and I like to play it safe so I can apply more LM not risking little to no results. After that I would personally never again disassemble the card, its not much worth it unless you notice performance difference what doesn't seem to happen with LM, doesn't seem to be as usual as with standard paste.

You should try phase-change material Honeywell PTM7950. It comes in as a sheet, lasts longer, performs works better than traditional pastes and there is no pump-out effect. For the power section (vrm) and vrams, I advise you to apply thermal putty Upsiren UX Pro. It is also a good idea to do undervolting.

I was wondering what model of fan you used. Also did you have to solder the fan to the old connector because I think the 360 uses its own connector?

Where did you get the back case?!

Also what pads did you use?

Are 1080 and 1080 ti basically the same for this?

looks so easy!

Se eu quiser acessar apenas a parte que faz a troca da pasta térmica , tenho que remover todos os parafusos do blackplate também? Ou bastam apenas os 4 ao centro, assim como fazem na gtx 1070 ti da MSI ? Eu queria só trocar a pasta termica por outra melhor pra ver se baixava a temperatura.

'Promosm'

Nice 👍

That is so cool

It’s very nice.I have one like this. Can you suggest contact number of any repairer?

👍

Why do these random screen colours appear ?

I'm very surprised. You made my day instead of the RUclipsrs who buy a phone to destroy it. That's not the real fate of the phones, but what you did is different. Keep it up.

I measured my pads. If you're looking for the pads thickness, here it is. 3.5mm 1x 100x10mm 2.5mm 1x 100x6mm 1mm 12x 10x15mm 1x 6x35mm 1x 8x110mm 1.5mm 1x 5x10mm 1x 6x100mm 2x 7x7mm 3.5 and 2.5 for the blacks 1.0 for the darker grays 1.5 for the lighter grays

Nice❤️ keep it up👍

Can other models be repaired like this?

Thanks for the video. I'm considering flushing the heatsink with water and dish soap. I bought this used pc with a GTX 1080 ti. However, it was not just a "used" pc unit in the shop/store. It was both a used unit and a PC that the employees use to play games until it was sold - to me, and everyone in that shop smoke. So, smoke was pushed into the heatsink almot 12 hours each day constantly. I hope this helps