Thank you so much for taking the time to detail the diagram information and explaining everything step by step! Tracing a circuit involves research and plenty of time and patience! Ive had the same year car and spent hours to get wiring diagrams!I don't want to guess and just replace parts! Im committed to your channel!
the sensor is inside the MFV. actually I should have tested both codes at the same time because its pretty much the same component. replacing the valve is the easiest repair to it. If you have a good mechanic that can do testing let him check for you if you wont be able to return the new MFV.
@@DallasAutoDiag I replaced the MFV and the p2016 never came back. Few Days later p2017 showed up lol. I'm going to go back and see if I can clean up some dirt around the area and check wiring to see if that's the issue.
@@DallasAutoDiag just went back and took off the new MFV. Checked the runner and it was getting stuck. Now it moves freely. About to clean and put it back together to see if that fixes the issue.
new subsie here.....that is so interesting to watch i learned alot. i have 2007 caliber the error code is p2004 stuck in open. ive changed the controller 2x and everytime i put a new one it works fine but after a week or so the error cameback and my car would run in limp mode....well actually right now for years. i gave up fixing it. but now i found a part in amazon the whole thing with that controller and i bought it not thinking what if its the connector that is fucking up, but i only have the p2004 that says stuck open, do you think i dont have problem with the connector? oh by the way the regarding the connector we put zip wire to it to make sure it is plug tight to the controller valve. im not a mechanic but as a guy would like to do some easy stuff i think i can fix. should i go ahead install the new manifold? hope you read this right awy while we are still in holiday and i have too much time to work on that car. thanks
@@DallasAutoDiag lol... anyway i decided to change the whole thing... intake manifold and it works. im having another problem. months ago i sent my car to the shop to fix the lighting. only high beam in the driver side is working. they qouted me too much to fix it with new tipm box. and i decline. they offered me an alternative way to fix it a half price. that is running wire to power up the right side. so everything was fix. until one of fog light stops working and i remove the front bumper to change the buld. but things are not working anymore. only high beam works. i bought a used tipm from ebay but cannot put it soemone told me to remove the wirings first to avoid overload. the shop is charging me almost same amount just to remove it. so for now im driving in high beam at nite. still pissed off i got tricked with that wiring.
@@cgreen339 this video is really old and I have changed my policy since then. Now if I go to the vehicle then I charge no matter what I'm doing. And whether it's commercial or public customer. If a public customer drives the car to my shop I scan and discuss with them the next step and give them a quote. I charge a $100 for that. If they agree to the quote that $100 is a credit towards the full amount. If they don't then they just pay the $100 and can leave. If it's a commercial customer and one of my regulars then I don't charge them any because I know eventually I'm gonna do the job.
@@DallasAutoDiag I think I’m not firm enough on my policy, there’s always something I either forget to charge the customer for or I let them talk me down somehow
@@DallasAutoDiag thanks, anyway i just did changed my dodge caliber intake manifold. what a horrible thing to do. i ended removing the whole throttle body and lastly that water hose its metal clip(?) is stopping but gives us a little room afterwards. and i ended up calling a help from my nephew to wrestle that damn thing out. i started the work late afternoon of saturday and ended 200 in the morning all bost are out but cannot take it out. sunday afterlunch down to 600 pm we finish the job. now car is out of limp mode after so many years hoping its all good. my next project will be the strutt at the back havent change that yet. im really thankful of your video. it helped alot.
Thank you so much for taking the time to detail the diagram information and explaining everything step by step! Tracing a circuit involves research and plenty of time and patience! Ive had the same year car and spent hours to get wiring diagrams!I don't want to guess and just replace parts! Im committed to your channel!
Thats for your comment. Is the diagram good enough for you or you need more help?
I have a 2008 caliber with just a p2016 code. Do you think it could be as simple as switching out the sensor?
the sensor is inside the MFV. actually I should have tested both codes at the same time because its pretty much the same component. replacing the valve is the easiest repair to it. If you have a good mechanic that can do testing let him check for you if you wont be able to return the new MFV.
@@DallasAutoDiag I replaced the MFV and the p2016 never came back. Few Days later p2017 showed up lol. I'm going to go back and see if I can clean up some dirt around the area and check wiring to see if that's the issue.
@@eternaltyrus1058
Check the runner itself see if it gets stuck when moving. Try cleaning it also might fix the issue.
@@DallasAutoDiag just went back and took off the new MFV. Checked the runner and it was getting stuck. Now it moves freely. About to clean and put it back together to see if that fixes the issue.
new subsie here.....that is so interesting to watch i learned alot. i have 2007 caliber the error code is p2004 stuck in open. ive changed the controller 2x and everytime i put a new one it works fine but after a week or so the error cameback and my car would run in limp mode....well actually right now for years. i gave up fixing it. but now i found a part in amazon the whole thing with that controller and i bought it not thinking what if its the connector that is fucking up, but i only have the p2004 that says stuck open, do you think i dont have problem with the connector? oh by the way the regarding the connector we put zip wire to it to make sure it is plug tight to the controller valve. im not a mechanic but as a guy would like to do some easy stuff i think i can fix. should i go ahead install the new manifold? hope you read this right awy while we are still in holiday and i have too much time to work on that car. thanks
I apologize I missed this. I was on a vacation
@@DallasAutoDiag lol... anyway i decided to change the whole thing... intake manifold and it works. im having another problem. months ago i sent my car to the shop to fix the lighting. only high beam in the driver side is working. they qouted me too much to fix it with new tipm box. and i decline. they offered me an alternative way to fix it a half price. that is running wire to power up the right side. so everything was fix. until one of fog light stops working and i remove the front bumper to change the buld. but things are not working anymore. only high beam works. i bought a used tipm from ebay but cannot put it soemone told me to remove the wirings first to avoid overload. the shop is charging me almost same amount just to remove it. so for now im driving in high beam at nite. still pissed off i got tricked with that wiring.
“Diagnostics should be free!” 🙄
There is a difference between diagnostic and Scannostis
I agree but Neither one should be free that’s still someone’s time and effort put it, it doesn’t make sense people think any work should be free!
@@cgreen339 this video is really old and I have changed my policy since then. Now if I go to the vehicle then I charge no matter what I'm doing. And whether it's commercial or public customer. If a public customer drives the car to my shop I scan and discuss with them the next step and give them a quote. I charge a $100 for that. If they agree to the quote that $100 is a credit towards the full amount. If they don't then they just pay the $100 and can leave. If it's a commercial customer and one of my regulars then I don't charge them any because I know eventually I'm gonna do the job.
@@DallasAutoDiag I think I’m not firm enough on my policy, there’s always something I either forget to charge the customer for or I let them talk me down somehow
is there a part 2? where is it
I don't think there is
@@DallasAutoDiag thanks, anyway i just did changed my dodge caliber intake manifold. what a horrible thing to do. i ended removing the whole throttle body and lastly that water hose its metal clip(?) is stopping but gives us a little room afterwards. and i ended up calling a help from my nephew to wrestle that damn thing out. i started the work late afternoon of saturday and ended 200 in the morning all bost are out but cannot take it out. sunday afterlunch down to 600 pm we finish the job. now car is out of limp mode after so many years hoping its all good. my next project will be the strutt at the back havent change that yet. im really thankful of your video. it helped alot.