In land surveying, we have a thing called a "bullprick". Those wooden stakes that we set everywhere don't like to be pounded into hard or rocky ground, so we carry a steel pin to make a hole for them... then, we hammer the stakes into the hole made by the steel pin. You can make one for cheap with an angle grinder and a piece of rebar. I get using aluminum because it's lightweight, but a steel spike would be WAY more durable. Having a steel spin-on cap on top of the spike to hammer it into the ground would make spikes made of both metals last longer. You could probably un-booger the threads on the red spike with the right die to rethread it.
The Ron Jeremy of mast supports. 😂😂😂😂 I’m watching this as I eat lunch and the people at the table next to me are trying to figure out what has me cracking up so hard.
Just a thought. Seems to me we all have spikes and clamps. Why not simply put a 3/8X24 stud on the bottom? Cap screw, flat washers and a jam nut would do the job and work with most other gear. If it were an exterior sleeve type holder rather than an interior post, it would store right on the mast for packing.
In the past I've done something similar to the hose-clamp method you've previously demonstrated. Didn't want to do that to my carbon fiber mast. Found that you really don't need a ring or loops. Just have an adjustable knot on your guy ropes. Tighten them all down just above the first joint and secure them. Thinking poly/fiberglass step-in fence posts might be an option as well. Gonna have to run by the farm store and check them out. Maybe print up some circle bits to fit over the T profile of the post.
I often wonder as a flatlander, if an 8m mast would be slightly better because then I could have it up for a Rubykov antenna or to put my infed up. Either way, Sean's spike idea is a great tool except for when I have to put it in the Rock.
I had followed a RUclips video of yours, Mike, about guying down a mast. I did it with my Spiderbeam, and I have to say that it works INCREDIBLY well. Thanks so much! Hope to hear you on the airwaves one of these days. 73 ❤ - KF0QNM
I would make that cap that holds the spike inside the tube do double duty as a driving cap. Make sure the spike has a shoulder below the threads and the cap should screw down and contact that shoulder. Then, you can hammer the cap, unscrew it when finished, and screw on the tube. This might mean the cap needs to be made from aluminum, too, but it is worth the extra $$$ to make it top quality. I would also suggest a longer version that includes a way to store a couple guy lines and/or ground radials, maybe by just having a way to secure one end to the tube and wrapping them on the outside. This longer version could have a longer spike for really soft ground and with the guys can work when there is a bit of wind, like at the beach or in an actual emergency. I also suggest a steel spike option. Around here, it may take you several hours to find enough dirt to sink a 6 inch spike without hitting rocks. I have destroyed many aluminum tent spikes that found the rocks below the surface. I switched to using long steel landscaping nails and problem solved, except pulling them out can be a challenge sometimes. If weight is not a big factor, like a POTA activation less than 30 ft from your car, steel parts would bring more joy.
For the longer (taller) masts I would use a guiding point a few meters up in the opposit direction of the antenna wire. That would certainly add to the mast bending over much less and relieve the stress on the mast because of a higher stress releave point. Just my two cents and it would take only a few seconds more. 73 Phil ON4VP
The "mechanical device" i use to keep my holes straight is my Glock.😆 but seriously, I have a welder, and I think I have a solution. I'll let Ham radio dude know. Somehow, he's always up at the same hours I am. Thanks, Mike. I hope you're doing well, brother. I gotta get my rig out this weekend. I've been dying to run it, and it's been dumping rain every second I'm off.
very cool. I build something similar from Aluminium and steel. maybe better to start the thread a bit lower that you not destroy it by hammering it. At least I did it like that.
It might be good if he offered a wooden spike option for areas that have a large vampire population as opposed to the zombies. I like the idea. Thanks for the video! 73
Hey dude. How much interaction do you get with the carbon mast? I’m interested in grabbing the 33ft when it’s available and was primarily interested in doing a vertical like you showed at the end.
hi Mike, I saw you @ me some minutes ago, my AI can kill all types noise and environmental noise, I also make some small board for install in other radios.
Perhaps keeping a nut the spike thread would prevent damage while hammering? 😎
Or mount a part on the spike to hammer it down so you dan't dammage the treath
Thanks for helping me with prototyping and development, Mike!
The pleasure is all mine. Thanks for being creative and coming up with a cool solution for full mast penetration!
Dude are you into Ham Radio ? :)
I have an idea that might help the cause. I'll hit you up on your channel. I'll look up your email later, too. 🤙🏾
In land surveying, we have a thing called a "bullprick". Those wooden stakes that we set everywhere don't like to be pounded into hard or rocky ground, so we carry a steel pin to make a hole for them... then, we hammer the stakes into the hole made by the steel pin. You can make one for cheap with an angle grinder and a piece of rebar.
I get using aluminum because it's lightweight, but a steel spike would be WAY more durable. Having a steel spin-on cap on top of the spike to hammer it into the ground would make spikes made of both metals last longer.
You could probably un-booger the threads on the red spike with the right die to rethread it.
Sean comes up with some really neat stuff for the ham radio world. Thanks for showing this to us Mike!
The Ron Jeremy of mast supports. 😂😂😂😂 I’m watching this as I eat lunch and the people at the table next to me are trying to figure out what has me cracking up so hard.
it needs a fat but you can screw on top to protect the threads while you pound it nice and deep.
Thanks Sean and Mike. I have been following this and will continue to.
Great review Mike and thank you for all that YOU do for the Ham Radio Community all the best 73 🙂👍
stick a small circle bubble level to the top cap when you push the spike in you can make sure it's vertical.
LOL wonder how many people will get your Ron Jeremy reference ….
Haha
Just a thought. Seems to me we all have spikes and clamps. Why not simply put a 3/8X24 stud on the bottom? Cap screw, flat washers and a jam nut would do the job and work with most other gear. If it were an exterior sleeve type holder rather than an interior post, it would store right on the mast for packing.
In the past I've done something similar to the hose-clamp method you've previously demonstrated.
Didn't want to do that to my carbon fiber mast.
Found that you really don't need a ring or loops. Just have an adjustable knot on your guy ropes. Tighten them all down just above the first joint and secure them.
Thinking poly/fiberglass step-in fence posts might be an option as well. Gonna have to run by the farm store and check them out.
Maybe print up some circle bits to fit over the T profile of the post.
only requires a thread die to fix the bunged threads.... ezy peazy
I often wonder as a flatlander, if an 8m mast would be slightly better because then I could have it up for a Rubykov antenna or to put my infed up. Either way, Sean's spike idea is a great tool except for when I have to put it in the Rock.
Did you get inspiration for your puns from my review of the Lil’Dude?
I have not seen your review, no.
I had followed a RUclips video of yours, Mike, about guying down a mast. I did it with my Spiderbeam, and I have to say that it works INCREDIBLY well.
Thanks so much! Hope to hear you on the airwaves one of these days. 73 ❤
- KF0QNM
The cap should be stainless so you can hammer it, unscrew it, and then switch it out for the mounting portion.
I would make that cap that holds the spike inside the tube do double duty as a driving cap. Make sure the spike has a shoulder below the threads and the cap should screw down and contact that shoulder. Then, you can hammer the cap, unscrew it when finished, and screw on the tube. This might mean the cap needs to be made from aluminum, too, but it is worth the extra $$$ to make it top quality.
I would also suggest a longer version that includes a way to store a couple guy lines and/or ground radials, maybe by just having a way to secure one end to the tube and wrapping them on the outside. This longer version could have a longer spike for really soft ground and with the guys can work when there is a bit of wind, like at the beach or in an actual emergency.
I also suggest a steel spike option. Around here, it may take you several hours to find enough dirt to sink a 6 inch spike without hitting rocks. I have destroyed many aluminum tent spikes that found the rocks below the surface. I switched to using long steel landscaping nails and problem solved, except pulling them out can be a challenge sometimes. If weight is not a big factor, like a POTA activation less than 30 ft from your car, steel parts would bring more joy.
For the longer (taller) masts I would use a guiding point a few meters up in the opposit direction of the antenna wire. That would certainly add to the mast bending over much less and relieve the stress on the mast because of a higher stress releave point. Just my two cents and it would take only a few seconds more. 73 Phil ON4VP
The "mechanical device" i use to keep my holes straight is my Glock.😆 but seriously, I have a welder, and I think I have a solution. I'll let Ham radio dude know. Somehow, he's always up at the same hours I am. Thanks, Mike. I hope you're doing well, brother. I gotta get my rig out this weekend. I've been dying to run it, and it's been dumping rain every second I'm off.
This looks like it'll be a nice option to have.
Hi Mike,
If the mast is leaning to far, could you place the spike in the ground at an angle to offset some of the lean? Stay safe. 73 WJ3U
Yeah, they’re so not subliminal messaging going on here. I love it
That's some great penetration! I'm still debating which mast to get for POTA/SOTA. The tankara rod is small, but less than ideal.
very cool. I build something similar from Aluminium and steel. maybe better to start the thread a bit lower that you not destroy it by hammering it. At least I did it like that.
That's what she said
Bayonet Mount. With an adapter for dual use on the end of an evil black rifle.
Ooh I like that!
@hamradiotube or K98K...choose your favorite wireless hole punch.
It might be good if he offered a wooden spike option for areas that have a large vampire population as opposed to the zombies. I like the idea. Thanks for the video! 73
Good idea. Maybe make it water tight too so we can store some holy water inside! I think we might be on to something here...
Mike, how dare you say aluminium. What are you, a Brit?!? That is all! Good day sir! I say good day!
Hey dude. How much interaction do you get with the carbon mast? I’m interested in grabbing the 33ft when it’s available and was primarily interested in doing a vertical like you showed at the end.
Little to none. I’ve found if the wire is actually touching the mast the swr will go up some but if it’s even a couple inches away it doesn’t matter.
@ Really appreciate the response! Thank you!
hi Mike, I saw you @ me some minutes ago, my AI can kill all types noise and environmental noise, I also make some small board for install in other radios.
if the tube was 11/4-11/2 you could slip the mast inside the tube
Ever try a rubber mallet? I find them much gentler on spikes
I said I bought one
@ that’s what I get for commenting before the end of the video!
@@jerryKB2GCG Hahaha!
Latin like Londinium, Aluminium 🤓
Nice review. How much are they? When are they available? And who is this Ron Jeremy bloke ? 🤣😂 73 and good DX, with maximum penetration.
Don’t take it in your carry-on bag.
That’s what she said