Thanks for checking out another Mechanic Monday! How do you like to run your brake levers? Angled up or down? Close or far from the grip? Far reach or close to the bar?
Good job, Mike! Everybody recommends testing the brake angle at normal, seated position. You are the first one I see that recommends testing them in the position you use them the hardest, when your bum is way back and down -- your arm angle is much different there!
Ivo Roilev for sure! I set everything up in my attack position: bar rotation, brake levers, suspension sag. All that stuff needs to be optimized there, not for seated and cranking back up the mountain!
Shin Mon Latt do whatever works for you. but the reasoning is that you should have as many fingers on the grip as possible while still being able to safely operate the brakes.
Nice video. Thanks for sharing. I had hurt my wrist before with an improper brake lever adjustment. Also there are folding bikes that the brake lever can only be facing down due to they way they can fold. Now I will stay away from those foldie.
Whatever Shimano fanboy. Your statement may have been true 7 years ago, but since Avid changed to SRAM their brakes are just as good if not better than the Shimano's. Quit spreading lies.
Just another Mechanic Monday (woah woah). I wish it were Sunday (woah woah). Cause that's my fun day (woah woah). My I don't have to run day (woah woah). It's just another Mechanic Monday.
We have a lot of undulating terrain in Grand Junction... (With *some steep spots)... But I've always leaned more towards angling down... To put me in an "aggressive"/"attack" position more centered on the bike ... 🤔 Maybe I need to consider putting them more up... Especially for park riding 😂
Sounds like 45 degrees would work pretty perfect for you! When you hit the park and get onto the steep techy trails pop the levers up a bit and see how you like it! That should push your elbows up a little bit and help you stay in an aggressive stance over the rear wheel! I find that helps with me monster trucking through everything!
Adjust the spring tension. Adjust the percentage of braking performance. 50 50 braking performance. 60 40 braking performance. 70 30 braking performance. If you Don't have a feature demand it gets installed.
Its the job of the middleman to speak to you and create a culture and a city. Destroying culture and robbing customers, is NOT business. Its antisocial anticity anti business. You MUST kick them out of their positions. Get them out of business, out of your life.
You have a bunch of fun and informative videos Mike. One thinkg that i link to do to customers and my bike is to scribe the location levers on the handle bar so if they move in a crash it is easy to relocate. It is also very useful on the saat tube for when you need to remove your seat.
Loving your videos dude, I saw your shop on daily mtb riders channel a few months ago and then found your videos just recently and I’m especially enjoying the maintainence Monday series
Grips incredibly important for braking. Couldn’t figure out what wasn’t right with my new bike. Switched out my grips out as the final variable and it changed the game after running Ruffians my entire life.
TIP: use plasti-dip (not the spray ,the liquid can) instead. WAY BETTER grip then heatshrink. I use yellow on all my bikes for ez lever locating in the dark
I find that moving my levers in causes tree strikes on my bar ends. It’s like a cat’s whiskers and I can’t judge the clearance with 1” or so sticking out. But moving them out causes the shifter/dropper lever to rub on my thumbs. Can’t find a happy medium. SRAM Matchmaker X makes it harder, too.
Now go back to the salesman and smash him in the face for wasting your life with their products cause they abused you. They're antisocial and they robbed and abused you.
Is it just me, but if you set up your brakes for index finger braking, then the down shifter requires a conscious reach to downshift. This is true for most setups. For instance, I have a Shimano XT with the brake and shifter piggybacked on each other. I have the downshifter out as far as it will go, but I still have to awkwardly reach for it. I need more control of the shifter's position relative to the brake lever. You would think after all these years that companies would make this more adjustable. I have 3D-printed shifter extensions and will experiment with those to customize the cockpit setup.
An interesting discovery - the problem described above relates to pulling the shifter rather than pushing it- is designed to work both ways. ...so the problem is less apparent if you push rather than pull to shift down to a higher gear.
Adjust the lever tension feature. Adjust the percentage of braking performance. 60 40 front and rear. Adjust the brakes to the situation. Buy multiple bikes and tune them to different situations.
Can you comment on brake reach vs free stroke? I have Shimano XT's which I just bled myself for the first time, and noticed the free stroke screw was turned all the way in before I started to bleed. I left it that way for the bleed, but now that's done I am wondering what are good guidelines for free stroke adjustment or if I should just leave it turned all the way in? Great video by the way, I learned a few things! Shimano has a handy reference on free stroke, but pretty light on details: bike.shimano.com/en-EU/technologies/component/details/free-stroke.html
Tom Clark free stroke is kind of a gimmick. I’ve messed around with it a ton and it doesn’t really make a difference(for shimano at least)usually when I don’t like the engagement point I’ll swap the pads or rotors. Doesn’t happen a lot but like once a season.
What do you suggest for brake levers that don't have a reach adjustment? I can't tighten my disc brakes any more without it clipping the rotor and my lever range is way too much
Hey Clinton! Without a reach adjustment on the brake levers, it's hard to really dial in your lever location. The best you can do is get a perfect bleed on it to keep the lever from pulling in too much! -Tor
Mechanics discs often don't offer good adjustments. I have Avid BB7 on my hardtail, these have the red knobs on the calipers that bring the pads closer to the rotor (independent of the cable tightness adjustment), these are very useful. However if the rotor is not true, it's almost impossible to get a pleasantly short lever throw. Solution: buy a rotor truing tool and learn how to use it. Also, align the caliper properly.
Why do these manufacturers sign contracts with all these crooked salesmen? Why would they want their customers to know nothing about the products? Why hand over money for stuff with NO communication about the products? You still haven't been told the spring tension IS adjustable. Salesman Don't want you to know about all the features you're buying. They're trying to create caos so they can rob you of most of your money.
Some brakes have a contact point adjustment. For hydraulic brakes, make sure the brakes are properly bled. Air in the system will cause the symptom you're describing. For mechanical brakes, you have to reduce cable slack and/or bring the pads closer (e.g. on Avid BB7, as the brake pads wear, you have to bring the pads closer to the rotor, by turning the red knobs on the calipers clockwise by 1 click on both sides, this is also done on initial adjustment, until you get the desired result).
This is the first thing I did when I got my bike, yesterday. I don’t understand why they come with the brakes and shifters backwards on the bar. I had to unbolt the bar in order to get enough slack to swap them around.
if you want ultimate safety for your levers, put teflon tape (yes the one used on pipe fittings) under your lever clamp, this will allow you to tighten your levers a bit more than without the tape under the clamp but still make it easy for the levers to rotate in case of a crash ;)
I remember I did that on my Honda XR250... Not really sure if it's needed. I guess also depends on the surface finish of the handlebar. My MTB handlebars look very smooth and shiny compared to the enduro motorbikes that I've had.
What about the contact distance? I have a feeling this caused me to “hit the deck” last week and suffered a separated AC joint. This adjustment wasn’t covered in the video.
Agree fully, Velke. Over the rear wheel is not "PRO". It unweights your front wheel and causes washout. Centered over the bottom bracket with seat dropped out of the way is Pro.
Hi, great video, quick question, would you know why my brake lever is locked up, meaning its not squeezing and not braking of course, it feels very stiff, its a trek soho commuter thank you
When you're adjusting the brake angle, is there a reason to not get the angle correct when you're adjusting the handle's distance from the grip? I'm speaking as someone who just rides around town, nothing competitive or dangerous.
He mentions that he doesn't tighten the levers so much that they can't be rotated. So, you adjust the distance, tighten the bolts just enough that they don't move with normal usage, but can be moved with a firm push. This helps prevent damage in a crash, but it also allows you to adjust your levers angle at any time, tool-free.
At first I thought this was lame spending 5 mins spent on positioning, pretty obvious , but keeping them a little loose is a interesting idea and using 1 finger also,. I've been seriously riding over 40 years, toured, commute, etc but the one finger braking is interesting, going to give that a try. So Good Vid, Thanks
When I started bicycling, the Soviet bike I had only had coaster brakes. When I got my first mountain bike, hand brakes were quite new to me. I saw many people use these with 4 fingers. Back in the day the "proper" technique to learn was 2-finger braking. Now it's 1-finger. I guess less fingers is better, provided that the brakes are powerful enough. Modern (quality) brakes are better and more powerful than what was available 10-20 years ago, I guess that's why we can switch to 1 finger now. I will have to try this as well, I'm used to 2-finger braking.
hey mike great video thanks for creating a quick path to get things dialed...one thing that i struggle with sometimes is adjusting the pads in relation to the pistons or how sharp and quick the pads begin to slow the rotor..are there any tips to adjusting the pads either during new pad install or while adjusting pads that are still good but are not contacting as quickly. Is that a bleeding issue? Sometimes i can get it pretty sweet by advancing the piston with the wheel out using an free rotor (not attached to wheel) so when i do install the wheel the pads are super close already...am i just being a bleeeding baby by adjusting the pads in this way? patrick (green jonesbike)
Long time no see Patrick! Honestly, I'd have to see the brake to diagnose what is going on. As pads wear down in Shimano brakes, the fluid will well up in the calipers leaving space in the levers. You might just need to do a quick lever bleed. We'll be doing a video of this in the near future!
great thanks Mike, they are shimano...ill keep a look out for that next video...i stopped by recently but the shop was closed...ill stop in soon to check out the new place...
I was cleaning my bike and I took of the tires as well. Now I have a problem. My brakes are not working and not really biting the disk. Please reply asap. I cant use it without the rear brake.
Could be a couple of different things there (pads need replaced, brakes need bled, bite point needs adjusted). Give us a call and we can better assist you! (360) 306-8827
So you too have middlemen crooks in your area too. Don't ever accept terrible abuse from salesmen. Talk back at them. Yell at them! You'll make them quit and get great customer service. Don't hand them money until you get told about the features etc.
Terrible customer service. The whole industry is full of ripping off the customer. The average bike owner knows very little about their bike and were sold the wrong bike and paid way too much. This whole industry needs a foot up the arse and made to apologize. I got told 6 lies last week from salesmen. I didn't buy any of them but they Don't care. They're IMMUNE to customers defending themselves. We boycott shops for 30 years but they keep staying in business. They have to be dealing in a second secret business. Every customer hates Cecil Walker cycles but they keep staying in business and NEVER change. All profit is removed from the company and it never gets bigger or displays the money. Lie after lie year after year decade after decade.
thumbs up for the 'not super tight' on levers and allowing them to move when you crash
100% I just started biking, had a crash and was happy that the levers moved and didn't snap
Nah I dont like levers moving when I squeeze hard. Also im using sram codes which are... like... the most unbreakable levers. So I should be good
Yeah I bent mine today and went over the bars
Learned that trick decades ago in the Arizona desert riding dirt bikes.
I just recently got into cycling and these type of tips are gold. Thank you!
Welcome dude, take it from me- learn to crash😬
Most brakes have adjustable lever tension as well.
Middlemen don't want you to know this feature.
Spring tension IS adjustable.
Thanks for checking out another Mechanic Monday! How do you like to run your brake levers? Angled up or down? Close or far from the grip? Far reach or close to the bar?
If I have guide R brakes can I just buy the levers/mastercylinder with the bite point adjust built into it? The same ones on this bike in the video?
Adjustable lever tension has been a feature for a decade.
Adjustable lever reach is a recent feature.
None of my bikes seem to have that feature.
Good job, Mike! Everybody recommends testing the brake angle at normal, seated position. You are the first one I see that recommends testing them in the position you use them the hardest, when your bum is way back and down -- your arm angle is much different there!
Ivo Roilev for sure! I set everything up in my attack position: bar rotation, brake levers, suspension sag. All that stuff needs to be optimized there, not for seated and cranking back up the mountain!
I have the bad habit of using two fingers. Will 100% look into my positioning now. Thank you for the video.
My cheap brakes make me use 2 sometimes 3 haha
Shin Mon Latt do whatever works for you. but the reasoning is that you should have as many fingers on the grip as possible while still being able to safely operate the brakes.
I have to adjust my levers in Spring! Nice tips, it will help getting levers in right position as I want to add a dropper lever to my left side soon.
I run my brakes with a really short reach so when I ride downhill my hand is in the strongest possible position while still just hovering the brake
Nice video. Thanks for sharing. I had hurt my wrist before with an improper brake lever adjustment. Also there are folding bikes that the brake lever can only be facing down due to they way they can fold. Now I will stay away from those foldie.
SRAM shifting, Shimano braking.
Whatever Shimano fanboy. Your statement may have been true 7 years ago, but since Avid changed to SRAM their brakes are just as good if not better than the Shimano's. Quit spreading lies.
@@th_js Your point would be valid if the OP said "in my opinion", but he didn't and neither did you white knight.
sram shifting and sram braking.
i prefer shimano for shifting and breaking
Opposite for me
Just another Mechanic Monday (woah woah). I wish it were Sunday (woah woah). Cause that's my fun day (woah woah). My I don't have to run day (woah woah). It's just another Mechanic Monday.
Good video. 👍 you did a great job braking it all down
Revolutionary tweaks! I'm so happy a new puzzle piece just snapped into place 🤙💯
Middlemen not doing their job again.
We have a lot of undulating terrain in Grand Junction... (With *some steep spots)... But I've always leaned more towards angling down... To put me in an "aggressive"/"attack" position more centered on the bike ...
🤔 Maybe I need to consider putting them more up... Especially for park riding 😂
Sounds like 45 degrees would work pretty perfect for you! When you hit the park and get onto the steep techy trails pop the levers up a bit and see how you like it! That should push your elbows up a little bit and help you stay in an aggressive stance over the rear wheel!
I find that helps with me monster trucking through everything!
Adjust the spring tension.
Adjust the percentage of braking performance.
50 50 braking performance.
60 40 braking performance.
70 30 braking performance.
If you Don't have a feature demand it gets installed.
I didn't came in looking for this video, but I learned a lot from it.
Its the job of the middleman to speak to you and create a culture and a city.
Destroying culture and robbing customers, is NOT business.
Its antisocial anticity anti business.
You MUST kick them out of their positions.
Get them out of business, out of your life.
You have a bunch of fun and informative videos Mike. One thinkg that i link to do to customers and my bike is to scribe the location levers on the handle bar so if they move in a crash it is easy to relocate. It is also very useful on the saat tube for when you need to remove your seat.
Loving the mechanic mondays simple stuff that makes the biggest difference simply explained 👍🙂
Thank you for the first tip I had a gnarly crash today and my brake lever cracked
Feels bad
Excellent video - really helpful tips and easy to follow. Cheers!
Thank you!! i needed to adjust my brakes!
I'm loving your videos, the format, the info, everything. Already a subscriber :)
Thanks for this homie. Very much appreciated
Thanks mate ...very helpful video. I never thought too much about my brake levers before.
Terrible customer service world wide.
That's the bike industry.
Terrible customer abuse.
Daylight robbery.
thanx, VERY good vid; my levers were way off, wish he showed how to adjust the rotary dial setting
Loving your videos dude, I saw your shop on daily mtb riders channel a few months ago and then found your videos just recently and I’m especially enjoying the maintainence Monday series
From the words of Sterling Archer: just the tip!
Cool video. That was what I've been looking for. 👍
Great Video!!
Freaking game changer for entry level shimano 3 finger levers... and stupid simple!
Thanks Mr Lost!
I learned so much from your video, thank you!
Grips incredibly important for braking. Couldn’t figure out what wasn’t right with my new bike. Switched out my grips out as the final variable and it changed the game after
running Ruffians my entire life.
After I slapped some Ergon GE1's on , the design allows your hand a much better grip while using a finger on the brake lever.....that was a surprise
Excellent video. This is one of the reasons I try to send some business up North. 🙂
Very informative! Thanks you!
Thanks for the kind word!! Glad I could help!!
Don't accept terrible abuse from salesmen.
Demand to know what you're buying.
Tip:use heat shrink tubes for grips on the brake lever
TIP: use plasti-dip (not the spray ,the liquid can) instead. WAY BETTER grip then heatshrink. I use yellow on all my bikes for ez lever locating in the dark
@@crabtrap You need help locating the levers in the dark?!
@@richardjones2811 sometimes, i use no lights on dirt trails when i ride.
I just had my brakes bled. Will adjusting the lever reach mess with the tuning of my brakes at all? Great video by the way, very detailed and helpful.
BboyFlimsy nope as long as you don’t loosen the wrong bolts!
I find that moving my levers in causes tree strikes on my bar ends. It’s like a cat’s whiskers and I can’t judge the clearance with 1” or so sticking out. But moving them out causes the shifter/dropper lever to rub on my thumbs. Can’t find a happy medium. SRAM Matchmaker X makes it harder, too.
I've never thought about brake lever angles until now... thank you✊
Great video! Very well organized and learned something new. Thanks
Now go back to the salesman and smash him in the face for wasting your life with their products cause they abused you.
They're antisocial and they robbed and abused you.
Is it just me, but if you set up your brakes for index finger braking, then the down shifter requires a conscious reach to downshift. This is true for most setups. For instance, I have a Shimano XT with the brake and shifter piggybacked on each other. I have the downshifter out as far as it will go, but I still have to awkwardly reach for it. I need more control of the shifter's position relative to the brake lever. You would think after all these years that companies would make this more adjustable. I have 3D-printed shifter extensions and will experiment with those to customize the cockpit setup.
An interesting discovery - the problem described above relates to pulling the shifter rather than pushing it- is designed to work both ways. ...so the problem is less apparent if you push rather than pull to shift down to a higher gear.
Really helpful. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
I have both my levers in different places due grabbing front with two fingers and rear with one finger.
I recommend having the levers higher/flatter, so your emergency hard braking performance most ergonomic.
Adjust the lever tension feature.
Adjust the percentage of braking performance. 60 40 front and rear.
Adjust the brakes to the situation.
Buy multiple bikes and tune them to different situations.
When I dial in my brake levers to where I an comfortably squeeze with one finger, my shifters are uncomfortably out of reach. Any ideas?
This was a very helpful video!!!!!😁
Hey bro whats that bike you got there? Nice clean lines
Thanks Sean O'Malley
Great video as always
Great vid I subscribed 👍
Hi Mike, is it possible for you to do a video on setting up the DH X2 coil and fork suspension correctly?
Just uploaded a new video with in-depth GRIP2 fork setup! ruclips.net/video/D9vsOHmmmpo/видео.html
Can you comment on brake reach vs free stroke? I have Shimano XT's which I just bled myself for the first time, and noticed the free stroke screw was turned all the way in before I started to bleed. I left it that way for the bleed, but now that's done I am wondering what are good guidelines for free stroke adjustment or if I should just leave it turned all the way in? Great video by the way, I learned a few things!
Shimano has a handy reference on free stroke, but pretty light on details: bike.shimano.com/en-EU/technologies/component/details/free-stroke.html
Tom Clark free stroke is kind of a gimmick. I’ve messed around with it a ton and it doesn’t really make a difference(for shimano at least)usually when I don’t like the engagement point I’ll swap the pads or rotors. Doesn’t happen a lot but like once a season.
What do you suggest for brake levers that don't have a reach adjustment? I can't tighten my disc brakes any more without it clipping the rotor and my lever range is way too much
Hey Clinton! Without a reach adjustment on the brake levers, it's hard to really dial in your lever location. The best you can do is get a perfect bleed on it to keep the lever from pulling in too much! -Tor
@@TheLostCo I'm using a mechanical system though
Mechanics discs often don't offer good adjustments. I have Avid BB7 on my hardtail, these have the red knobs on the calipers that bring the pads closer to the rotor (independent of the cable tightness adjustment), these are very useful. However if the rotor is not true, it's almost impossible to get a pleasantly short lever throw. Solution: buy a rotor truing tool and learn how to use it. Also, align the caliper properly.
Lovin all the videos mike!
5 finger braking 😂🖐
You're kinky bastard 😂😂😂
Amateur i use 10
20+ years 3 and 4 vingers were normal
4 fingers and a thumb👍🤣
The shifter?
Thank you
Very cool vid. Really informative, thanks!!
Why do these manufacturers sign contracts with all these crooked salesmen?
Why would they want their customers to know nothing about the products?
Why hand over money for stuff with NO communication about the products?
You still haven't been told the spring tension IS adjustable.
Salesman Don't want you to know about all the features you're buying.
They're trying to create caos so they can rob you of most of your money.
What about the little wheel?
On Code RSC levers, there's the little wheel adjustment.
What about adjusting the throw?
Lol, just measured the distance of my Code levers from the grips and I'm at 35 mm.
What if you are missing that finger but you have to use the next finger so you can do the same for the other side of the brake levers
Great vid to the point but my brake levers don't have reach adjust knobs or bolts? Is there any other way to adjust the levers? Thanx
Amazing tips
I'm late to the video, but can you adjust when the brake starts biting? Too much throw pulls the levers all the way to the grips.
Some brakes have a contact point adjustment. For hydraulic brakes, make sure the brakes are properly bled. Air in the system will cause the symptom you're describing. For mechanical brakes, you have to reduce cable slack and/or bring the pads closer (e.g. on Avid BB7, as the brake pads wear, you have to bring the pads closer to the rotor, by turning the red knobs on the calipers clockwise by 1 click on both sides, this is also done on initial adjustment, until you get the desired result).
Dude today's Monday and I'm watching this wow isn't that crazy hahahaha
Great, detailed video. Subbed!
This is the first thing I did when I got my bike, yesterday. I don’t understand why they come with the brakes and shifters backwards on the bar. I had to unbolt the bar in order to get enough slack to swap them around.
Excellent
if you want ultimate safety for your levers, put teflon tape (yes the one used on pipe fittings) under your lever clamp, this will allow you to tighten your levers a bit more than without the tape under the clamp but still make it easy for the levers to rotate in case of a crash ;)
I remember I did that on my Honda XR250... Not really sure if it's needed. I guess also depends on the surface finish of the handlebar. My MTB handlebars look very smooth and shiny compared to the enduro motorbikes that I've had.
Hi, good tips. One of my levers is loose and wobbles are there any fixes for this? Thanks!
What about the contact distance? I have a feeling this caused me to “hit the deck” last week and suffered a separated AC joint. This adjustment wasn’t covered in the video.
Can you do a video on how to extract your bike from a tree when your jump goes terribly wrong?
I thought the aggressive position was forward, weighting the front. I'm over the rear tire only about 10% of the time (riding bike park).
lol no, you can go over the bars
Agree fully, Velke. Over the rear wheel is not "PRO". It unweights your front wheel and causes washout. Centered over the bottom bracket with seat dropped out of the way is Pro.
Great video dude
How do you loosen the bolt to change the angle of the levers?,?
HEY BRO.....i got XT 8100, if I scoot them away from the grip so i can do one or two finger braking, it scoots my shifters too far away, help
Hi, great video, quick question, would you know why my brake lever is locked up, meaning its not squeezing and not braking of course, it feels very stiff, its a trek soho commuter thank you
Do I have to "go ahead and" tighten it up or can I just tighten it up without "going ahead and" doing so?
your spot on what you say in this video
I'm on an e-scooter that uses similar hydraulic brakes. How do I get the brake lever easier (less tension/resistance) to pull but same braking result?
I’m new to the advanced braking mechanics and I’m trying to make it where I can slightly squeeze my lever and I’ll come to a stop. Any help?
Thank you, it was great.
When you're adjusting the brake angle, is there a reason to not get the angle correct when you're adjusting the handle's distance from the grip? I'm speaking as someone who just rides around town, nothing competitive or dangerous.
He mentions that he doesn't tighten the levers so much that they can't be rotated. So, you adjust the distance, tighten the bolts just enough that they don't move with normal usage, but can be moved with a firm push. This helps prevent damage in a crash, but it also allows you to adjust your levers angle at any time, tool-free.
Nice tips sir... Newbie biker here.
At first I thought this was lame spending 5 mins spent on positioning, pretty obvious , but keeping them a little loose is a interesting idea and using 1 finger also,.
I've been seriously riding over 40 years, toured, commute, etc but the one finger braking is interesting, going to give that a try.
So Good Vid,
Thanks
When I started bicycling, the Soviet bike I had only had coaster brakes. When I got my first mountain bike, hand brakes were quite new to me. I saw many people use these with 4 fingers. Back in the day the "proper" technique to learn was 2-finger braking. Now it's 1-finger. I guess less fingers is better, provided that the brakes are powerful enough. Modern (quality) brakes are better and more powerful than what was available 10-20 years ago, I guess that's why we can switch to 1 finger now. I will have to try this as well, I'm used to 2-finger braking.
hey mike great video thanks for creating a quick path to get things dialed...one thing that i struggle with sometimes is adjusting the pads in relation to the pistons or how sharp and quick the pads begin to slow the rotor..are there any tips to adjusting the pads either during new pad install or while adjusting pads that are still good but are not contacting as quickly. Is that a bleeding issue? Sometimes i can get it pretty sweet by advancing the piston with the wheel out using an free rotor (not attached to wheel) so when i do install the wheel the pads are super close already...am i just being a bleeeding baby by adjusting the pads in this way?
patrick (green jonesbike)
Long time no see Patrick! Honestly, I'd have to see the brake to diagnose what is going on. As pads wear down in Shimano brakes, the fluid will well up in the calipers leaving space in the levers. You might just need to do a quick lever bleed. We'll be doing a video of this in the near future!
great thanks Mike, they are shimano...ill keep a look out for that next video...i stopped by recently but the shop was closed...ill stop in soon to check out the new place...
Sounds great we'll see ya then! Tuesday-Friday 10-6!
I have a huge red dot on my middle finger because of my lever reach. Gotta change it
That was awesome.
I was cleaning my bike and I took of the tires as well. Now I have a problem. My brakes are not working and not really biting the disk. Please reply asap. I cant use it without the rear brake.
Your calipers may need adjusted, but it's hard to say without knowing more. Give us a call as (360) 306-8827, we are happy to help diagnose this!
Great info. Thanks Tom Holland.
What about dialing in the contact point?
I prefer a spongey front break...works better for me 👍🏻
Hey my pad contact point adjustment thing is very stiff on my guide RSC's, do you know how I can make this smoother?
I'm having trouble with my breaks ( right handlebar ) where it pulls down touching the handlebar to where it squeeks when I come to a stop.
Could be a couple of different things there (pads need replaced, brakes need bled, bite point needs adjusted). Give us a call and we can better assist you! (360) 306-8827
Can i adjust my shifter and brakes with only one clamp?
I lost the alen in my brake and the wheel in the front is making noise is that ok?
Lovin' the super level of positivity in the vid bro!
Great info thanks!!!
So you too have middlemen crooks in your area too.
Don't ever accept terrible abuse from salesmen.
Talk back at them.
Yell at them!
You'll make them quit and get great customer service.
Don't hand them money until you get told about the features etc.
Loving this series Mike. Real glad I Subscribed.
Here's to your success!
Regards, Shakkers 🇬🇧
Whos here for wheeling ...
A nice DUSTY bike..bring that..to..the..UK!!-:))
This helps a lot 👌 Love vid like allways 🤙
Terrible customer service.
The whole industry is full of ripping off the customer.
The average bike owner knows very little about their bike and were sold the wrong bike and paid way too much.
This whole industry needs a foot up the arse and made to apologize.
I got told 6 lies last week from salesmen.
I didn't buy any of them but they Don't care.
They're IMMUNE to customers defending themselves.
We boycott shops for 30 years but they keep staying in business.
They have to be dealing in a second secret business.
Every customer hates Cecil Walker cycles but they keep staying in business and NEVER change.
All profit is removed from the company and it never gets bigger or displays the money.
Lie after lie year after year decade after decade.
my mechanical disc brake's lever arm is jamming when i apply brake and i will hve to return it through hands how can i fix it
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