Virtual Foundry 90% Metal Filament...a 2nd look
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- Опубликовано: 22 апр 2018
- I reviewed Virtual Foundry's 90% metal 3d printing filament awhile back. I've been wanting to give it another go and finally picked up a kiln which provided the perfect opportunity.
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Machinable Wax Print2Cast Filament: Uses "PROJECT" at check out for 10% off your order.
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lol, "more or less" quantities and opening the kiln mid-sintering are a jewel XD
Very interesting video. Thank you for taking the time to go through all that, definitely learned something.
A few thoughts I had while watching this. Maybe pre-heating in the oven would make the filament more flexible for loading. Perhaps a box over the printer warmed by a hair dryer while it prints. After it dries in the kiln, maybe sprinkle some charcoal on top and seal with aluminum foil to keep out oxygen.
I think you need a bigger kiln😅😂. $100 what a bloody bargain. Cool vid my friend very informative . I had absolutely no idea this was possible👏🏻. I do a heap of melting casting also if your interested have a look. (I didn’t say good castings but castings nonetheless 😉)
The only reason why I would want a metal filament is if it is as strong as real metal.
Wow what a brilliant contribution to the dialog
@@clort123 LMAO
my guess is that "black magic powder" is pretty much a mix of carbon and plaster (probably refractory grade). carbon just creates a protection against oxidation and plaster just to keep things together. when a company gives their product a "magic" name it often a dead simple mixture 8 times out of 10.
Some shops sell just aluminium oxide along with the filament for that very purpose.
You are correct (I'm the guy that made it). It was a blend of SatinCast and coconut carbon. The carbon works as an 'oxygen getter'. This was my 2015 version of the process. The modern process is less complicated, less messy, takes less time and has a much higher success rate.
Maybe you should do another video where you follow the directions, instead of just pouring random amounts and getting "sick of waiting", etc.
Or maybe you should since your an expert
I think you mean "you're".
@@bluefronek thanks mom!
That’s pretty gnarly. I feel like they might be better off making a tube of PLA, then filling it with metal powder. That way it might not break as easily.
i think it still makes a lot more sense to just print moulds and cast metal parts
That company also sells clay filament, I'd be curious to try that as a mold.
@@gliscameria oh. for a second i wondered whether it was burnable, but that wouldnt make much sense. I also have a resin printer and there is ceramic resin you can actually burn to get something akin to a proper ceramic afterwards
Score on the kiln I've had my feelers out for a while no luck yet but I'll find a good deal. Now that you have the kiln your burn-out process should be much better ;) can't wait to see what you do with your new toy! Nice Edit
Inside The Mind Of Matt yea i had my eye out for awhile! I got it specifically for the burn out, should be 100 times easier now.
ProjectTube I’ve looked into suspendasurry I could drive 4 hours one way to get it and save $100 shipping and still spend $400 on the smallest amount they sell looking at Alternative mold mediums but have to admit printing has my attention right now
Have you tried pickling with jewelers’ acid & a little heat? The dark coating is most likely fire scale if it sounds like metal.
Also, how bad are the fumes as these pieces sinter? Have you done several pieces at once?
nice idea
Have you used FilaWarmer? Some of Virtual Foundry's filaments require pre-heating to around 50-70 degrees Celsius before feeding into an extruder, it could solve the problem with breaking
I tried this, but they also improved their filament so it doesn't break as easily.
> 350F for 1hr 15min and then 500F for 1hr 15min
me, after a couple of unit conversion: that's quite lower than I thought. Maybe it's doable in ove-
> 1530F for 45 min
me: nvm. I knew it lol
Amazing
use a scale when you mix the components.
Wow, interesting, but totally not worth it.
So how long and what temps did you use the final time around for the key? Did you use the same process with the kiln and just longer times?
Pretty sure he winged it. Not a very good scientific method of testing. I appreciate his review but I seriously doubt his guessing helped.
Can you 3d print exposed lattice structures? For instance lattices where the members are maybe 1-2 mm cross sections but are not part of the infill?
Yep, here is a video I did years ago with a VERY simple lattice structure. You can get much more intricate then this though. ruclips.net/video/NlKhoHOR2_Y/видео.html
If I wanted my prints just to be heavier, I would embed iron parts in it. Maybe a washer for coins. ect.
Hi. I'm the Founder/ceo of The Virtual Foundry. Your first review was helpful for us. Your followup was also helpful. It's been quite a few years since your last review. I've put years worth of effort into make this process easier. Our newest instructions for sintering bronze and copper have a 95%+ success rate. Also, the filament is MUCH easier to work with (it's not brittle).
Anyway, if your up for reviewing the newest version, please reach out. I'll set you up with an evaluation kit free of charge.
No strings attached, of course. I'd expect you to present your honest opinion. The process has become so refined and simple that I'm confident you will wind up with a really nice metal 3d print.
Please reach out if you're interested.
I wonder if preheating the filament to make it more pliable for feeding would help ...
They do recommend that on their site.
@@AdmiralBob or at least printing in the south in the summer :)
Yes, Virtual Foundry sells a product called FilaWarmer, I have one and use it for this filament.
$100 for that kiln is a steal! I tried doing a burnout of prints with a plaster block mould, the plaster cracked badly like yours was but worse... only got one half decent aluminium pour the others all fell apart as pouring..
dppps need to do 50% sand and 50% plaster. the plaster helps hold it together.
I can't believe you got that kiln for $100!
Kris Bassett mine cost $250 on Craigslist. $100???? Wow
sir, i have watched a lot of videos saying that after heating the finished product, the product will shrink from 100% to 90% in size,does this happen to you?
KEAL I didn't notice that, but I didn't test for it either. I would imagine there would be some shrinkage. Even with traditional metal casting you get shrinkage. There might be another review of this product coming in the future and if so I will look at how much the print shrinks.
just gonna have to wait for the one that drops metal powder and sand then gets fired to get cheaper
By the time you get a full kiln you'd be better off just doing lost pla/wax casting from a 3d print
can you try using an induction furnace? The results should be instant
yea ill go pick one up, stay tuned...
Once sanded lightly to remove the layer marks; I would do the sintering before polishing it. If it comes out anything close to metal you could use a Dremel or similar tool to get a polish with less chance of damage. About strength I would guess it could get to about 89% that of bronze since at least theoretical that would be the density. The burnout would leave it porous by the percentage of volume that was taken up by the plastic which would be reduced by any shrinkage. So if it had 5% shrinkage then it would still leave it about 5-6% porous. Although there might be other principles regarding the percentage of porosity translated to strength.
Hm... looks interesting, but not quite there yet. How about quickly etching that copper key (with NaOH or ferric cloride we use in the electronics world for PCBs) to get a cleaner surface and then try to electroplate some real copper on top of it? Could help with getting a surface you can polish up...
ExtraBase I did actually etch the smaller key and got poor results.
@@RealProjectTube Try HCl it dissolves copper oxide.
I think they need to first design new printer setup which can hole the raw plastic and metal powder together and further flow it into the extruder melting it there at the extrusion so that way at-least ..you won't have the brittleness issue...or they need to use some sort of small laser to melt it...or even the traditional extrusion methode.
~very informative video~
~Thanks~
~namaste~
I believe they now offer a pre-heater for their filament that is suppose to help with the brittleness but I haven't tried it.
memest. in all seriousness tho, good vid
Meh. The process has home gamer potential. Revisit it in 3years.
Nice score on the kiln.
Almost 3 now!
@@rt_w1456 Still waiting. They can't even sort out wax filiment for 3d printing. :-/
It's been 3 years. Try it now!
Proble needed centegrade hahaha still not a very good test wasnt acurate enough with sintering
Virtual Foundry 90% Metal Filament...a 2nd brutalisation of all listed instructions
I cant wait for YOUR review video so you can show me what I did wrong.
pre heat kiln
Bullets!
Would love to see a strength test, see if it's as strong as normal bronze.
JohnnyThund3r it's not, perhaps if you got the sintering perfect but I doubt it.
Too bad, hopefully someday.
According to them the steel filament is as strong as MIM parts when sintered. 3D Metal is an industrial company, but has a similar process and their metal parts turn out amazing. Only 100k!
This filament doesn't really seem worth it. It's a cool concept, but outrageously expensive (by volume, it seems like the bronze filament is about 25 times the price of average PLA). For much less than the price of a single spool, you can buy all the equipment and materials you need to do silicone molding and metal casting (at least using relatively low melting temperature metals), with less janky results and less frustrating prints.
Totally unscientific - "It's conductive"...but how many percent conductivity?. ...No hardness test (no you do not smash it with a hammer).... and generally crude handling of material and process.
So a bit better but still completely impractical.
But if the fillament is 10% pla you are never going to get a solid centered part
Nah,, no way. 10% by weight will be even a larger percentage by volume.
Look up sintering, that's how it works. You're sypposed to use a debinding oven first that will completely remove the pla.
Look up sintering, that's how it works. You're sypposed to use a debinding oven first that will completely remove the pla.
Um. Not a scientifically done demo. You admittedly didn't follow recommended procedures. This makes all the work you did totally not worth the work you put into it.
Please do another following the formula.
Umm...I'm not scientist nor claim to be...you should do a review since your a scientist. Send me the link when you have.
@@RealProjectTube got em
What he means is that you obviously didn’t follow the directions exactly, which you clearly do admit a few times throughout. So it’s fair to say that the outcome of the video is possibly due to the fact that you didn’t adhere to proper procedures, which does make the review kind of a not wholesome review lol. That’s like making a meal from a recipe book but not following the directions in the recipe book and then saying the meal didn’t turn out great.
Thanks. I will as soon as I get a chance. Thanks for viewing.
Wait a minute...You got THAT kiln for 100 bucks ? Are you shitting me ? Did you buy it from Jessy Pinkman or something ? xD
I sure did! It was a steal! Unfortunately I did something stupid and ruined it...so I no longer have it.
@@RealProjectTube "Wie gewonnen so zerronnen" I guess huh...oh well.
I appreciate the videos and your effort. But I cringed each time you didn't follow instructions. From the guessing at mixing to the timing of the sintering to the quenching. I'm sorry but how can you really call these reviews? Do you not have a measuring cup or ability to schedule your time around sleep? If I owned the company I would be very frustrated watching these. Imagine if it was your company! Thanks for trying though.
Make a better product to review. I'm tired of the same comments from virtual foundry in disguise. I reviewed this twice and both times the results were bad.
ProjectTube - The results were bad because of your inability to follow instructions
lose the music or at least turn it down.
Lol imagine doing a review of something you clearly have no idea of the science behind it
Please learn about metallurgy, casting, microstructures and diffusion
As most guys that will buy this are just like me, I think I'm the perfect person to do a review. Lol not everyone can be as smart and perfect as you.
@@RealProjectTube
valid response :) true stress-testing of a product I suppose
(Sorry if my comment was a but snarky - not intentional)
Would be interesting to see how well it can perform in more experienced hands too though
@@cheeseybeaver agreed, I'm sure people that have more knowledge of the process could have better success. I'm just a guy that that likes to do things myself, even though I fail often lol