Wax 3d Printer Filament Review-MachinableWax Print2Cast 10% Discount
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- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2024
- In this video I review MachinableWax's Print2Cast wax 3d printing filament specifically made for metal casting 3d printed models. If your going to order some of this use coupon code "PROJECT" at check out and get 10% off your order.
Machinable Wax Print2Cast Filament: Uses "PROJECT" at check out for 10% off your order.
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It amazes me that such a filament even exists. As 3d printing evolves, the versatility is getting to be pretty astounding. Your videos are very informative. Keep up the great work.
Dunno if anyone else has offered this suggestion, but I was working as a designer for a large foundry out here in Texas doing large format 3D print to cast in PLA, and maybe you can try some of what we were doing. We kept our infill to about 9 or 10%. I've been able to do a total burnout in about 30 minutes doing that. We also hit the print with lacquer before going in to the ceramic slurry because PLA is porous, and that helped prevent the slurry from absorbing in to the filament. To control the soot, we would just pour hot wax in, and burn it back out no more than two times, and it typically grabbed any buildup. Machinable Wax sent me a sample spool, but I just never got around to using it because production took priority. Anyway, just something to try. It worked for us.
And, when I say large format, I mean our print area was 24"x32"x24", and we were burning out PLA prints at that scale. It can be done efficiently.
Can provide more details on how you are pouring the wax in? Are you using ceramic shell or investment? Are the molds cool when you are pouring the wax in? Any videos on the process?
Sure. We use ceramic shell. The molds have to be cool enough that the wax won't just flow right out of them. So, you'd need to plug up any gates. I keep a few crock-pots full of wax. You just pour it in, and let it cool. I typically poured the wax around 150-180 degrees. But, as you probably know, different waxes will have different viscosity characteristics at different temperatures. Then, put it back in to the furnace to let the wax burn out, and it should carry away that residue. But, it's effective. I haven't tried with burning out PETG, yet. I suspect that it's probably about the same.
I'm working on a little series of my process to put up on my channel. But, I want to make it comprehensive. So, it will be a month or so before I can get it all put together.
Awesome, I'll subscribe
Subbed!
Hi!I want to state my experience as a jeweler.In jewelry we can fine sand the wax models we make in little time so probably this can be done and with the 3d-printed wax models to obtain a a quite smooth surface and after casting.Of course then you will also have to sand it but it would need much less time.Nice videos keep up the good work!!
+ΠΛΑΤΩΝ ΤΟΤΗΣ Thats one thing I like about this filament. The ability to easily sand it or carve it after printing. Even using a heat to slightly melt the surface and smooth out print lines. Thanks for watching!
You are welcome!
hello there, I am attempting to start my 3d printed jewelery shop and would love to automade the process as much as possible. One piece of teh process I am having hard time understanding is the Polishing. My pieces are rather complex and I have been by a 3D printing shop hard to polish. Could that part of the process be eliminated and still get a polished surface? Or can that also be automated? Am I overthinking it? Thank you so much!
Try using a Q tip with lighter fluid to smooth out the wax.
Not sure if this will work, but it does with purple and green casting wax.
Using heat to smooth out wax is so risky, the temperature usually continues to rise after you remove heat source.
Just a tip about flow percentage, since i keep seeing people adjust percentage rather than diameter. You need to use calipers to find the diameter. Most filament is not a 1.75 average, that number is the system its designed for (1.75 or 3mm) and not the effective average of that spool. Spools vary even between the same batch of the same brand and color (things like a pressure front, for example, like a thunder storm while a batch is in progress, will change the diameters just slightly, but enough that it will affect the print if you dont compensate for it). So instead of usinf flow percentage, hit it with calipers and average the measurements. This is a much, much more accurate way to do it and solves the cast majority of the problems that beginners encounter (especially S3D users because of the hard coded -7% flow that they refuse to remove from the slicer). Flow percentage is used more for an engineering scenario. Say you have a single wall RC plane like 3dLabPrint's planes... Single walls need to be used with it for weight reasons, and need to be very strong. In these situations, you use flow % (after, and only after using calipers to find your average diameter over a few meters of each individual spool), so for example, you set it to 103%. In short, this presses more filament out on the same line, meaning that single wall print will now have a much higher bond strength and allows something like a wing to be structurally sound despite the single wall. You generally raise temp about 5C in these situations to keep viscosity the same (more filament flow needs more heat because the heating time for each cubic millimeter is shorter. Try it once, and see if this doesnt solve most of your problems. If you still have flow issues after calibration, this means you have a mechanical problem, not bad filament. So dont go hurting manufacturer sales and reputation for a filament you arent using correctly.
Kyle these are all good tips and good information. However in regards to your last statement, first and foremost I am a big fan of Machinable wax's filament. In fact, I would hazard a guess that their sales are up due to my video's. That said if any filament manufacture's filament diameter varies so much that I need to change the value of my filament size to make it print correctly this is not a user error on my part. It is a manufacturing error and should be called out as such. It should not be up to the end user to measure and average their "advertised" 1.75mm filament. We as consumers should expect quality control from such products and hold manufactures to there specifications. As far as machinable wax goes I have not had any problems with their filament other then the initial trial and error of setting my printer up for it. Since then it has printed well and I have no complaints.
this stuff looks great for what I'm trying to do with my FDM printers. I am going to see about getting a sample to work with.
Fantastic helpful review, especially with the tricky settings! Thanks for that ;)
've no experience yet. But research so far says it's probably moisture in the filament causing bubbles and adhesion issues. They recommend using a food dehydrator for 24 hours or some such.
I keep coming across your videos. I am subbed now but before I subbed I saw your anet videos everywhere. This is by far the most under rated 3d printing channel. I know its not just 3d printing but a lot of it is. I have an A8 and just ordered a CR-10 hopefully you will end up getting a CR-10 because I'd love to see video on it by you.
x9x9x9x9x9 Thanks for the sub! I'd love to get a CR-10, if I get another printer anytime soon it will be a CR-10.
Everyone seems to love it. And all the OTB prints I have seen have been incredible. I kinda wish I had bought the CR-10 and saved my money on the Anet A8 but now I know how a printer works and how to fix it. So the lessons I learned from the A8 are worth the $200 I spent.
May be easier to work with prior to casting. Meaning, if someone wants to make alterations prior to making permanent cast, (not including injection molding). After all, old school sculpting, for casting is done with wax.
Thank you for sharing your hours of research with us. If a product like this can be used to good effect with a little bit of effort, it's worth it. If someone helps you get there faster, hey - even better!
your print settings yield you 4 bottom and top solid layers due to layer thickness at 0.2mm and top/bot thickness 0.8mm fyi, and pretty sure the low temp override Gcode command is M302, alcohol wipe the bed prior to printing to improve sticking
Adam you are correct, was thinking nozzle width like the shell or wall size, .4mm.
That's cool. I wonder if the wasted failed parts could be melted into like a candle shape then forced threw a die and reused as filament again? maybe even melted out of the mold could be saved and reused.... maybe many times
You definitely could melt the failed casts down and do something with them. It is pretty much ordinary wax in every respect. I even used candle wax to fill holes in prints before casting them.
Just wondering if you've tried melting down the filament and brushing it onto the bed? Something similar to making an ABS/Acetone slurry and putting it on the bed to stop ABS from warping and lifting from the bed. Just a thought.
Hi, I am a complete newbie but really trying to get into wax printing for my jewelry business. I saw the 3D printers links you mentioned in the video description, all are in the few hundreds $ range, but some of my colleagues use 3D printing machines for casting wax that cost thousands or even 10K+, wondering what kind of more precise 3D printer you recommend for a bit higher resolution prints that work with your filament? Thank you!
What’s the temperature command please. Good review.thanks
If I remember correctly its M104, google that and you should be able to find out how to implement it.
Did you ever successfully print anything with supports? Currently running a Prusa mk2 setup and I can get great prints for basic things like an anet y axis belt tensioner but I can't get anything I would actually want to cast. Did you ever refine the settings? Any help would be amazing!
Help? I am using aan Ender 3 and Cura firmware? default setting is my issue I have no adea on how to get around it, do you have any ideas for me? Thank You in advance. Buy the way even if you can not help me thank you for the video.
I do lost wax casting. I have never 3d printed EVER! what printing system do you recommend at reasonable price?
great info thanks
The 1.75mm rolls are about $45 with your code at the moment, just over $60 for delivery to the UK though lmao.
damn, well that's not worth it.
How solid was the wax after printing?
Did it have the consistency of candle wax?
Also what was the melting point?
Pretty much, I have a video where I printed a candle. I'd say it's just like any other wax.
I bought some wax filament and endlessly fiddled with settings. I never got it to work.
Did you try an enclosure?
@@RealProjectTube no. I use a flashforge creator pro. It's enclosed with an acrylic lid. I gave up. I just use PLA for prints, jewelry investment for casting, and a programmable kiln for the burnout. The burnout is 18 hours. I also use vacuum assist for the casting and pour. It's expensive, but the results are way better than my old method using plaster and sand.
Do you have to use a designated print head?
Nope, any nozzle will work.
Are there any casting shrink factors involved? Have u faced any issues while casting to metal?
maidenjump yes, on my most recent casting I did. Casting the 3d printed gear box I had both ring gears shrink on me. I factored in shrinkage when printing them but obviously not correctly.
Does the wax actually burn out? or does it melt out?
+Gear Down For What? At high tempeture it burns. I suppose if your temp wasn't high enough it would just melt and run out.
I know this is a really old video but do you know if this is kerosene based like parafin wax is?
Sorry I do not, I have a roll of it. Is there a way to tell?
@@RealProjectTube Unfortunately, if there is, I'm nowhere near knowledgeable enough to know. I did do a quick google search but nothing came up. I also took another look at the technical details on the website and its melting/flash points and density seems to line up with it being a parrafin-plastic hybrid (it's called a plasticized wax on the website). Probably a trade secret haha.
I have an A8 as well. I used the gcode that you gave. It heats up to 145 degrees, however when printing the first layer it goes down to about 115 and nothing comes out till the second layer. Did this happen to you at any point? Any workarounds?
I put that line of gcode in the first line (if that affects anything)
Thank you for the video btw!
+Mind Made no I did not have that problem. Not sure what it might be. Check in your slicer for first layer settings.
Ok Im going to check it out and try it again. Thanks
I finally got it going! For some reason after the first layer is made, a build up of wax around the extruder forms. So I carefully wiped it off and everything is working like a charm. Thought I'd update!
Great video, thanks! Thinking about getting some, but will be close to $100 to the UK :'(
+AS Motion Lab Thats a lot of money! It's does last a long time I still have almost half a roll and I've been printing non stop with it. Have you done lost pla?
Yeah that's how I'm trying to convince myself to get it :). I did try lost pla, it didn't burn out or even melt in the furnace - instagram.com/p/BTrNRxKAL9d/
AS Motion Lab cool lil vid. looks like your good at modeling stuff :) definitley need linger burn out that whole mold needs to get real hot. mine glow orange. also consider a tall main sprue...you need pressure to fill the mold completely
Thanks man, graphics/3d is my job, comes in useful for prototyping/fabrication etc. I did actually do a semi-successful green sand cast later, which worked well with a much larger sprue, as you say. I think I'll look into a way to increase thermal conductivity - the plaster was too damn good at insulating the print! Thanks for helping me out man!
i dont think you can do a full review without casting with it. you said you did but didn't show us the casting.
i've seen videos about how well the castable PLA filiment prints but trying to melt it out can be a disaster. the high temp needed to do a full burnout can result in a cracked mold. high heat for a long time breaks down plaster of paris based molds. its a struggle between a full burnout and a usable mold... its been a very time consuming, unrewarding, and expensive hobby...
i got casting material thats rated for a higher temp but at $40 for a 5lb bag im hesitant to use it and a bit discouraged after never having a good cast after many attempts with lost PLA.
i wonder how they got wax into a filament ?,
i mean wax is brittle and not flexible to be bendend on a filament roll.
A filament extruder is probably what they're using to produce this.
Hey mate. How is it going? Is it Possible to use this philament in pruza 3d printers?
Sure that shouldnt be a problem
You’ll never get quality castings with a twenty minute burnout
What was the command to get lower print temps, how do I input it to my Anet A8?
James check out the info here marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M302.html
Doing a M302 S130 will set your minimum extrusion temp to 130C. You might have to do a M500 after to save the setting. Whatever is after the S will be the minimum extrusion temps. Or you can do a M302 P1 and just disable it.
You can enter these commands through the Cura printing interface. Keep in mind I think this only works with the SKynet firmware.
ProjectTube Thanks it will help out with some of the super cheap ABS I have been trying to use. It needed lower temps compared to name brand ABS.
No Problem! Good luck with the ABS.
does it burn like candle wax?
+Piers Reynaud I believe it does, although I haven't made a candle out of it....yet.
Hey i tryed it on my cr 10 but it can only get down to 170 degrees og all my prints lifts og the bed and i use tape and glue, is it very importen to print at 145 ???
Yea, I found the temp is important. Did you try the command to disable low temp extrusion? M302, google the usage
Now i print with 145 dregee thanks alot... but having some trouble to get it to stick to the plate, i use tape and glue but still bent off... what can i do to get it super stuck???
I use blue tape and hairspray...hair spray kinda sucks because it get all over everything but I find it works. The way I do it when starting with a fresh bed is go into cura and preheat the bed to 50C. Once its reached temp i start applying the hair spray making sure that the bed temp doesn't drop too low and giving me a bed heating error. You have to put on the hair spray pretty thick. Once I get a good thick layer I go ahead and print. Its important for that first layer do go down good. I had to raise my extrusion percentage to 102. To be honest it took some playing around with but once I got the settings right it works good.
Where do you put the M302 Goode on a CR 10 to lower the temperature settings and what should the entire code be any help with this would be appreciated thanks
Can you make a candle?
I could but it might be a fire hazard.
You do know the soot is a release agent
Ummm.. maybe it is, but it also contaminates the surface of the bronze casting and requires extra finish work. Secondly if you are using investment casting, we don't really care about releasing agents as we just wash off all the investment after casting anyway.
I find my prints are subpar with your average printer.
I want to get away from extrusion machines.
Yea I have been doing a lot of resin printing lately.
Too much talk and too much still picture IMO. I was hoping to see a lot of cast results too.
yea you should probably just stick to shorts then as you have the attention span of a 3yo....I say good day sir!
@@RealProjectTube You don't seem to take raw criticism very well. Next time be sure to show the cardboard box of the products for 2 minutes at least. Maybe it gets more interesting then 😂😂
@@xDevoneyx Clearly you know how to make content better then me with your 44 subscribers and 11 videos...