I would like to express my gratitude to ROAP. Robin and Alex are very patient coaches. They guide me to think about my problems instead of telling me the solution directly. They challenge me, mentor me, and most importantly cheer for me. I am so lucky to have these two as my coaches. 🎉🎉 And this is a must watch episode for anyone who are plateaued at V4-5! 💪
Ahhh, thank you Changyue! 1.5years is just the beginning, looking forward to entering double digits, 5.13s and beyond. Your progress has been excellent, your diligence commendable and your progression is thanks to your psych and hard work. Keep it up, we'll always be in your corner!
We need more videos like this, with empirical evidence of movement analysis ! It helps so much more than those videos claiming a V14 climber should be able to climb V16 based of his/her finger strenght...
Thank you so much. We completely agree (obviously) and work with some of those V14-16 climbers that do benefit from such analysis. It's easy to assume that a V14+ climber knows everything and doesn't have weaknesses, but that's simply not true. Everyone has their strengths and weaknesses and we just have to address the weaknesses in order for them to not be a hindrance. This can be technical, mental or a physical basis. Thank you so much for watching and sharing your thoughts.
We hope you enjoyed this video. Let us know your thoughts and if you want to see more of these videos. If you want them shorter/longer and mention the style of climbing: rock, comp, grades etc Thanks again guys, we love producing content for you :)
Thank you for sharing the coaching session! I personally would like to see a separate video per grade group like V0-3, 4-5, 7+ or something applicable to many people. I’d love to watch longer version if it’s for my grades. I love seeing Alex climb - all the movements are so beautiful and efficient. I appreciated the comparison at the end!
Another excellent training video! I have found all of your coaching videos like this and on techniques like the drop knee to be fantastic. Robin and Alex both explain and demonstrate moves in a way that is easy to understand. I really appreciate the side by side comparison climbs with Alex too.
Thank you for this interesting insight. Especially for your important hint: "...these habits become muscle memory... And then what happens is, as you are doing it from the beginning, you are going to be doing on the harder climbs.". Next time I'm on the wall, I'll remember your words. Small, but so important inputs. Thanks for this Alex & Robin! You are great.
This is a really cool idea for a video! You guys really found the hardest V4/5 in the whole gym! I took a few more attempts to top it than I thought I would. I'm going to try to apply some of the tips in this video next session and see if I send it more easily! Looking forward to Part Two!
Awesome, glad you liked it and glad you can reference it for real! Yes, a punchy little climb hey! Cool new gym though - lots to go at. We also filmed the jumpy V7/8 green and the V6/7 green comp climb in the corridor (rails). Thanks for watching
Haha, I think Robin and Alex know my weakness really well😂. I trained a lot on kilter board and hard powerful crimpy problems but not slopers. They always told me that I should focus 60% of time on weaknesses which I will implement it better in the current and future trainings.
Great video as always. As a rookie climber myself it's so valuable to see and learn the nuances in these climbs. This is a good reminder to keep working on technique even in the lower grades.
Similar, but obviously more detailed as we had to miss out a bit to make this watchable for the masses. Essentially we analyze move by move and help you see where you can improve, sending drills/methods of correction where applicable. The plat plan has one video a week and 4 videos as part of the sign-up assessment.
Thank you so much for the great content Robin and Alex. The way you are breaking down movement is really not reflected to such a degree elsewhere, so please continue making videos! I'd love to see a dedicated video for indoor slab, particularly ~V5-V8 where the feet and hands start to become difficult to get a good purchase on, with small holds, slopers and such. These climbs have always been notoriously tricky to understand good body position for me personally and would be interesting to hear your insight about how you approach and break them down. Keep up the great work and look forward to future videos!
Thank you so much, we will! A dedicated slab video is a great one and something we didn’t have on our immediate list, so thanks for that!!! We have a few videos lined up for release, just organizing the new year to try and schedule in 1 a week for the year. We really appreciate your feedback, requests and support!
I've only just started climbing this summer so I have much to learn, but this video is spot on for me currently. I'm getting into V5s, and in my warm up I've been noticing that I sometimes take moves for granted because it's an easier climb. Thanks for the coaching session. I will apply these tips next time I go to the gym. I also love when Alex demos climbs. She's amazing!
Yeah, it’s something that everyone is guilty of as they get stronger. Unless you’re specifically warming-up and trying to pull and get strong, it’s the time where we need to focus on movement, syncing the body and mind. Thanks for watching
I think it’s just strength vs antistyle. 5 grades seems like quite a bit but I imagine that gap gets bigger and bigger the stronger you get: eg I know some v12-14 climbers who would struggle with an indoor v7 slab
@@soccutd77 ah yeah that makes sense. For me personally I climb pretty much the same grades for kilter and indoor around 7a. But slopers are a different beast, 6c max on a (very) good day is possible, ha
What's the best mentality for that warmup stage on the wall on easier climbs, like v1-3? Is it try to make each move as easy as possible and don't unnecessarily pull? Because sometimes I overfixate on "always keep arms straight" and find that some moves it's way too awkward and I feel like I have too pull to reach the next hold. Is it more of: if you can keep you're arms straight, you should because that's likely the most efficient way?
Great question. You have to have intention. I.e. if you’re trying to get better at half crimping, this should be your focus…if you’re trying to work on foot placement; ankle rotation; locking off etc. Try not to blur the line with adding too much in. But always try to see where your biggest flaws are and address them. Straight arms aren’t helpful if our buns are well out from the wall. They are only important IF we can control the rest of our body too. There are stages to warming-up though, you’re right. We always try to exaggerate good technique for the first 8-10 climbs. Then, we start to want to recruit our arms and fingers and consciously choose progressively harder climbs that will make us pull. Always have intention though.
This one's really good. I'm so used to admiring really good climbers at my local gym, similar to Changyue, that I never think to watch for bad technique. I'm so in awe with what they can do, I don't pay attention to what they can't. I'm hoping the sloper lesson helps me, since I'm currently having trouble with a couple sloper boulders🤞🏽. Mahalos for the awesome content🤙🏽
Thank you so much for watching and sharing your thoughts. Yes, this is very common, but once you are aware of flaws (in yourself), it is easy to see them in others too. Even if you watch the best climbers in the world, they will have their weaknesses that hold them back and these are often visible in gyms too or watching them on videos. Keep an eye out for them - not to judge a person, but to learn from it too. The more you are aware, the easier it is to accept and address yourself.
Great video, feels like I'm in the coaching session myself! Seeing the evolution over the attempts and the comparisons really makes it easy to understand, love this format.
Really great video. I loved the incredibly detailed breakdown of movement on both an easy climb and a more difficult one. It was really cool to see similar movement patterns between the two, but the climber only notices on the harder climb since he cannot pull through all the holds as easily. Keep this content coming! This is top notch. The fact that an intermediate climber was featured made the content much more relatable.
So glad you enjoyed the detailed approach and we’ll certainly be looking back at Changyue on harder climbs, at his limit, but also other climbers at different levels of their journey. Thanks for watching and your support!!
appreciate noting how these behaviors manifest in easier climbs, though maybe a smaller breakdown would be more helpful to demonstrate what the client does, the instruction for a given movement, and why this change works whereas the previous attempt will not or how much harder this is to make work. Taken as a whole, can be difficult to see this was a technical modification rather than a misread. Wonderful content, though, and definitely more coach with client content would be appreciated
Appreciate the feedback. We did wonder about going into the move by move analysis with how to correct, perhaps we can and only focus on one climb. I.e. here’s how you did it, these are the repercussions and these are the other options. Thanks, we like it!!!
I would like to express my gratitude to ROAP. Robin and Alex are very patient coaches. They guide me to think about my problems instead of telling me the solution directly. They challenge me, mentor me, and most importantly cheer for me. I am so lucky to have these two as my coaches. 🎉🎉
And this is a must watch episode for anyone who are plateaued at V4-5! 💪
Ahhh, thank you Changyue! 1.5years is just the beginning, looking forward to entering double digits, 5.13s and beyond. Your progress has been excellent, your diligence commendable and your progression is thanks to your psych and hard work. Keep it up, we'll always be in your corner!
Thanks for sharing your coaching session!
We need more videos like this, with empirical evidence of movement analysis ! It helps so much more than those videos claiming a V14 climber should be able to climb V16 based of his/her finger strenght...
Thank you so much. We completely agree (obviously) and work with some of those V14-16 climbers that do benefit from such analysis. It's easy to assume that a V14+ climber knows everything and doesn't have weaknesses, but that's simply not true. Everyone has their strengths and weaknesses and we just have to address the weaknesses in order for them to not be a hindrance. This can be technical, mental or a physical basis. Thank you so much for watching and sharing your thoughts.
We hope you enjoyed this video. Let us know your thoughts and if you want to see more of these videos. If you want them shorter/longer and mention the style of climbing: rock, comp, grades etc
Thanks again guys, we love producing content for you :)
Thank you for sharing the coaching session! I personally would like to see a separate video per grade group like V0-3, 4-5, 7+ or something applicable to many people. I’d love to watch longer version if it’s for my grades. I love seeing Alex climb - all the movements are so beautiful and efficient. I appreciated the comparison at the end!
Another excellent training video! I have found all of your coaching videos like this and on techniques like the drop knee to be fantastic. Robin and Alex both explain and demonstrate moves in a way that is easy to understand. I really appreciate the side by side comparison climbs with Alex too.
Thank you so much Jennifer, we really appreciate your support. More coming your way.
"Thats your flash, gone!" Come on dude 😂
Harsh…but true!
I love this format, really great content. I'm learning alot
Excellent, thank you so much, more will come in this style in the not-so-distant future too. Thanks for your support!
Thank you for this interesting insight. Especially for your important hint: "...these habits become muscle memory... And then what happens is, as you are doing it from the beginning, you are going to be doing on the harder climbs.". Next time I'm on the wall, I'll remember your words. Small, but so important inputs. Thanks for this Alex & Robin! You are great.
Ahhh, thank you so much for the kind words!! Perfect practice makes perfect! ;)
We really appreciate your support!
This is a really cool idea for a video! You guys really found the hardest V4/5 in the whole gym! I took a few more attempts to top it than I thought I would. I'm going to try to apply some of the tips in this video next session and see if I send it more easily! Looking forward to Part Two!
Awesome, glad you liked it and glad you can reference it for real! Yes, a punchy little climb hey! Cool new gym though - lots to go at. We also filmed the jumpy V7/8 green and the V6/7 green comp climb in the corridor (rails). Thanks for watching
Haha, I think Robin and Alex know my weakness really well😂. I trained a lot on kilter board and hard powerful crimpy problems but not slopers. They always told me that I should focus 60% of time on weaknesses which I will implement it better in the current and future trainings.
Great video as always. As a rookie climber myself it's so valuable to see and learn the nuances in these climbs. This is a good reminder to keep working on technique even in the lower grades.
Thank you so much! We are always learning, and always will be. Enjoy the journey! Thanks for watching
Is this a similar breakdown to what we would get with the video analysis on the Platinum Training Plan?
Similar, but obviously more detailed as we had to miss out a bit to make this watchable for the masses. Essentially we analyze move by move and help you see where you can improve, sending drills/methods of correction where applicable. The plat plan has one video a week and 4 videos as part of the sign-up assessment.
Thank you so much for the great content Robin and Alex. The way you are breaking down movement is really not reflected to such a degree elsewhere, so please continue making videos! I'd love to see a dedicated video for indoor slab, particularly ~V5-V8 where the feet and hands start to become difficult to get a good purchase on, with small holds, slopers and such. These climbs have always been notoriously tricky to understand good body position for me personally and would be interesting to hear your insight about how you approach and break them down. Keep up the great work and look forward to future videos!
Thank you so much, we will! A dedicated slab video is a great one and something we didn’t have on our immediate list, so thanks for that!!! We have a few videos lined up for release, just organizing the new year to try and schedule in 1 a week for the year.
We really appreciate your feedback, requests and support!
I love that tip at 9:23 about the chest part on slopers. Im currently working on my V7 sloper and im certain this tip will help me out!!
Ahhh, great to hear!!! Let us know how you get on!! Thanks for watching
I've only just started climbing this summer so I have much to learn, but this video is spot on for me currently. I'm getting into V5s, and in my warm up I've been noticing that I sometimes take moves for granted because it's an easier climb. Thanks for the coaching session. I will apply these tips next time I go to the gym. I also love when Alex demos climbs. She's amazing!
Yeah, it’s something that everyone is guilty of as they get stronger. Unless you’re specifically warming-up and trying to pull and get strong, it’s the time where we need to focus on movement, syncing the body and mind. Thanks for watching
I'm confused. He says he climbs V9 on kilter which is really hard imo. But he only climbs V4 on normal indoor problems?
So the kilter is a basic style of climbing. But this Sloper climb is far more nuanced and balanced. Seems odd, but far more common than you’d think
I think it’s just strength vs antistyle. 5 grades seems like quite a bit but I imagine that gap gets bigger and bigger the stronger you get: eg I know some v12-14 climbers who would struggle with an indoor v7 slab
@@soccutd77 ah yeah that makes sense. For me personally I climb pretty much the same grades for kilter and indoor around 7a. But slopers are a different beast, 6c max on a (very) good day is possible, ha
@@roapcoaching917 Yeah I can see that! For kilter you either hold it, or fly off. For sloapers there is a lot of positioning etc needed
Yeah, anti-styles can do that. Alex can flash some 11s and 12s and will fall on 6s sometimes
Excellent content, I have to say my technique and fundamentals are getting better because of this channel! Thank you for sharing
Ahhh, thank you so much for watching and your support, we are so happy they’re helping you!
Really great video, I've been working on endurance and some of the tips on unnecessary pulling definitely apply to me and I'll be working on it!
Thank you so much!! Yes, we are definitely all guilty of it. Film yourself, we guarantee it’ll help! Thanks for watching
What's the best mentality for that warmup stage on the wall on easier climbs, like v1-3? Is it try to make each move as easy as possible and don't unnecessarily pull? Because sometimes I overfixate on "always keep arms straight" and find that some moves it's way too awkward and I feel like I have too pull to reach the next hold. Is it more of: if you can keep you're arms straight, you should because that's likely the most efficient way?
Great question. You have to have intention. I.e. if you’re trying to get better at half crimping, this should be your focus…if you’re trying to work on foot placement; ankle rotation; locking off etc. Try not to blur the line with adding too much in. But always try to see where your biggest flaws are and address them.
Straight arms aren’t helpful if our buns are well out from the wall. They are only important IF we can control the rest of our body too.
There are stages to warming-up though, you’re right.
We always try to exaggerate good technique for the first 8-10 climbs. Then, we start to want to recruit our arms and fingers and consciously choose progressively harder climbs that will make us pull. Always have intention though.
Glad I'm not too strong! Still pull too much but not because it is easy.
Hahaha!!! We all do! Thanks for watching
Great video! Very helpful remarks. I want more😃
Thank you so much!!! More coming! :)
This one's really good. I'm so used to admiring really good climbers at my local gym, similar to Changyue, that I never think to watch for bad technique. I'm so in awe with what they can do, I don't pay attention to what they can't. I'm hoping the sloper lesson helps me, since I'm currently having trouble with a couple sloper boulders🤞🏽. Mahalos for the awesome content🤙🏽
Thank you so much for watching and sharing your thoughts. Yes, this is very common, but once you are aware of flaws (in yourself), it is easy to see them in others too. Even if you watch the best climbers in the world, they will have their weaknesses that hold them back and these are often visible in gyms too or watching them on videos. Keep an eye out for them - not to judge a person, but to learn from it too. The more you are aware, the easier it is to accept and address yourself.
Very instructive, keep this kind of content coming! Also great Job Changyue, that looked like a lot of hard work and progress for a single session.
Thank you, much appreciated and we’re glad you found it helpful! More on this series coming soon
Great video, feels like I'm in the coaching session myself! Seeing the evolution over the attempts and the comparisons really makes it easy to understand, love this format.
Ahhh, that’s great news as it’s what we were hoping for! Thank you for watching and your support
Really great video. I loved the incredibly detailed breakdown of movement on both an easy climb and a more difficult one. It was really cool to see similar movement patterns between the two, but the climber only notices on the harder climb since he cannot pull through all the holds as easily.
Keep this content coming! This is top notch. The fact that an intermediate climber was featured made the content much more relatable.
So glad you enjoyed the detailed approach and we’ll certainly be looking back at Changyue on harder climbs, at his limit, but also other climbers at different levels of their journey.
Thanks for watching and your support!!
alex as in alex puccio?
Correct :)
Loved this thanks
So happy to hear! You’re more than welcome and thanks for watching!
appreciate noting how these behaviors manifest in easier climbs, though maybe a smaller breakdown would be more helpful to demonstrate what the client does, the instruction for a given movement, and why this change works whereas the previous attempt will not or how much harder this is to make work. Taken as a whole, can be difficult to see this was a technical modification rather than a misread.
Wonderful content, though, and definitely more coach with client content would be appreciated
Appreciate the feedback. We did wonder about going into the move by move analysis with how to correct, perhaps we can and only focus on one climb. I.e. here’s how you did it, these are the repercussions and these are the other options. Thanks, we like it!!!
When you've been climbing for 13 years and are back to the 'beginner' level based on v grades T.T
Humbling, but the grades are irrelevant hey ;)
13 years’ experience is what counts